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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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lAo    111112.0 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


0 


s 


^6 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes 

techniques  et  bibliographiques 

The  CO 
to  the 

The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 

L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 

original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 

qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 

copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique. 

de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 

which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 

point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 

reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 

una  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 

The  im 

the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 

modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 

possibi 

sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 

of  the 
filmina 

□ 


n 


D 


n 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/oi  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  peMiculde 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  Mure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6X6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires: 


D 
D 
D 


x/ 


n 
n 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film^  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6colordes,  tachet^es  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'erata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t^  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


laire 
;  details 
|ues  du 
t  modifier 
iger  une 
B  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


1/ 
u6es 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grSce  ck  la 
gdndrositd  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


Les  Images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmi^,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  ie  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film^s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^♦^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  —^'  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


lire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  incKided  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  etre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  etre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


by  errata 
led  to 

9nt 

jne  pelure, 

apon  d 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

'nyjp"!  •^I'w 


(.."Wrtai , 


■w— ■g^rt^i  mm>  I  jii  ■jw,  _i  _nn 


':K;ii7!irag5| 


W' 


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{ 


,-s«S444pWi-i 


THE 


W 

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4 


0     ,s 


I 


4 ; 


NORTHERN  TRAVELLER, 


AND 


NORTHERX    TOUR; 

WITH  THE   ROUTES   TO 

THE    SPRINGS,   NIAGARA,    QUEBEC, 
THE   TOUR   OF   NEW-ENGLAND, 

AND 

THE  ROUTES  FROM  THE  SOUTH. 


WITH     AN     APPENDIX, 

CONTAINING 

THE  WESTERN  TRAVELLER 

AND 


emigrant's  or   stranger's  guide   to  the  valley 

of  the  mississippi. 


EMBELLISHED   WITfl   NUMEROUS  MAPS  AND  ENGRAVINGS. 
FIFTH   EDITION,   REVISED   AND  EXTENDED. 


NEW-YORK: 


GOODRICH     &     WILEY,     124     BROADWAY 


//^^ 


r    i 


A 


(_ 


[Entered  accordingto  an  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1834, 
by  Goodrich  &  Wiley,  in  tlie  Clerk's  Office  of  the  Dis- 
trict Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern  Distnict  of 
New- York.] 


MAHLON    DAY,   PRINTER,   374   PEARL   STREET. 

V 


^../.v 


PREFACE. 


The  present  fifth  edition  of  the  Northern  Travel- 
ler has  been  revised  with  care,  and  in  many  parts 
written  over  entirely  anew.  Abridgments  have 
been  made  as  far  as  was  considered  consistent  with 
usefulness,  and  thus  space  has  been  found  for  the 
introduction  of  much  matter  not  found  in  former  edi- 
tions. Every  important  improvement,  especially  on 
the  principal  routes,  it  has  been  the  intention  of  the 
author  to  introduce  ;  and  the  novel  modes  of  travel- 
ling, and  various  new  objects  of  attraction,  have  re- 
quired additions  in  almost  every  page. 

The  Western  Traveller^  which  will  be  found  as  a 
distinct  appendix  to  the  work,  now  appears  for  the 
first  time :  the  increased  travelling  and  emigiation 
to  the  West  requiring  the  addition  of  this  now  im- 
portant department  to  the  traveller's  book.  The  in- 
formation and  directions  it  contains  are  derived  from 
the  most  authentic  sources,  and  carefully  condensed 
and  arranged  in  such  a  manner  as  to  render  them 
most  convenient  for  reference  on  the  route. 

Numerous  prints  and  maps  complete  the  recom- 
mendations of  this  book,  which  it  is  the  intention  of 
the  author  to  render  useful  to  the  utmost  of  his 
power. 


•   -iii*' 


I 


t     I 

1^ 


^-v 


'  n-^J»'* 


INDEX, 


Abraham,  Plains  of       -        -  194 

Academy  of  Arts,  N.  Y.    -  H 

Albany            .        -        .         .  34 
Albany  i.  Schenectady  Railroad  37 

Alexandria,  (D.  C)    -        -  33-:? 

Alton  293.     Ainesbury  -        -  318 

Amherst  College,  (Mass.)  -  '241 

Andover,  (.VI ass.)   -        -        -  2H7 

Andre  and  Arnold     -        -  24 

Animals  in  tlie  west        -        -  390 

Anthony's  Nose         -        -  22 

Do         da       -        -        -  49 

Antiquities         -      63.  72.  9f».  ^3 
Aqueducts     -        -           47.  53.  fi5 

Auburn  and  state  prison    -  104 

Augusta          ...        -  327 

Avon  Springs      -        -        .  9b 

n 

Baker's  Falls          -        -        -  209 
Ballston  springs          -         117.  120 

Baltimore       -        -        -        -  339 

Do    and  Ohio  Railroad  -  34 1 

Bangor    326.                Bartle  t  303 

Beitavia      98                Bath  324 

Battery  (N.  Y.)  -        ,        .  9 

BaUle  of  Balimore         -        -  340 

-— —  of  Bridgewater         -  80 

of  Chippewa        -        -  79 

of  Erie              -        -  68 

of  Lake  George        135.137 

■            o/  Montmorency           -  200 

ofPlatts''urgh          -  157 

ofQ,  eenstown    -        -  71 

of  Stillwater    -        -  113 

of  Ticonderog^    -        -  139 

of  White  Plains       -  18 

ofTreutoa           -        -  371 

Bellow's  Falls    ...  246 

Bemis's  Heights     ...  112 

Bernaidston  245         Berthier  179 

Bethlehem     364         Beverly  314 

Big  %>tream  Point  and  Falls   -  101 

Bissel  Farm      -        -        -  232 

Biackstone  Canal   -        •        ..  261 

Blackwell's  Island  Penitentinry  21 1 


Blackrock    04       Blue  Hills  270 

Booihbay    325        Bordentown  363 

Boston        271  and  vicinity    -  278 

Brattleborongh  246     Bris  ol  -  362 

Broadway  (N.  Y.;       -        -  10 

Brock  s  Monument         _        -  71 

Brookfield  283  Brooklyn  14 
Brotliertown    59    Duel's  Farm    37 

Buffalo  -  -  -  -  O."? 
Burgoyne's  expedition  HI  to  il6 
Burlington        -        -    87.  156.  362 

Burning  Springs     -         -        -  99 

Butlers  Falls      29     Bytown  173 

c 

Caldwell       132        Cambridge  279 

(anulen  and  Amhoy  Railroad  370 

Canada  39  Canajoharie  50 
Canandaigua    -        -        -        -    99 

Cape  Diamond              -        183  194 

Carpenters  Point  -  -  -  29 
Carthaj,'e  60  Cattskill  Mountains  30 

Caughnawaga    -         -        -  48 

Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canal      -  103 

Lake      -         -         -  103 

Centre  Harbor       -        -        -  293 

Chambly    -        -        -        -  209 

Charleston  (S.  C)  -        -        -  335 

('harlestown       .        -        -  247 

Chaudierc  Point    -        -        -  183 

Ch;izy        157        Chelmsford  290 

Chemung  Canal      -        -        -  101 

Chesapeak  &  Delaware  Canal  353 

&  Ohio  Canal  -  331 

Cincinnati  396  Claverack  34 
Climate  of  the  west         -    391.377 

C.hoes  Falls           ...  46 

Coal  Mines  (Pa.)        •        -  355 

Cold  Spring  ...        -  23 

Columbia  College       -        -  H 

Concord         -        -        -        -  290 

Connecticut  School  Fund  -  213 

State  Prison         -  225 

Conway    298        Crown  Point  152 

D 

Dam  near  Fort  Edward     •  209 

Dartmouth  College         -        -  251 


I 


i  i 


f 

,! 


4 


K 


6 


Dcdlmin    SfiO  ncfirficl.l 

Delaware  &  Hutlson  (^iiiial 

— Water  Gap 

Detroit  -         -         .         - 

Dismal  Swamp  Canal 
Dorr liestt;r  Heights 
JJretidea         101  Diiiidas 

East  Kloonfield 
. ('aiia(iii  Creek 


iNnt:x. 


Of.-, 
'MVA 

:m 

27H 

87 

no 

50 

2:n 

211 

.  :v2i 
4r> 


• Iladdain     -         -         - 

——  Hartford 
— —  River         .        -        - 
Kastport     :J2fi  East  on 

Kdiien  in  N  Lag.  213.  277  291. 
P-rie  Canal        -         -        -      U'l 
do      do  Itinerary  of  see  Ronles  ia 
Traveller's  Directory,    p.  414 
Expenses  in  travelling  381.  382.  383 

F 

Falls  (Glenns) 
(Maker's)  209 

Montmorenci 

Magara 
'— —  Trenton  55 
Farmers,  advice  to 
Fishkill 


Ithaca 


129 

104 

197 

69  to  79 

(Turner's)  241 

-     381 

20 


Foroign  Packets  from  New-York  13 


Fort  Anne 
l>rio 
Miller 
Plain 
Lee 


Edward 
Hill 

( 'swego 
Putnam 


207 

88 

209 

50 

17 

tTrumbull  it  Griswold 

Wm.  Henry 

"  ■     Washington    - 

(^ 

Gallop  Mnnds  94 
Geology  297.  310 
German  Flntts  - 
Georgetown  332 
Greenfield    243 
Gulf  Road 


208 

251) 

92 

23 

2rj8 

179 
17 


Gasport 
Geneva 


68 
100 
53 
Glenn's  Falls  129 
Guelph  86 

-      249—250 
H 

Iladdara    221   Harlem  Heights 
Hanover   251    Haml)u»-gh 
Hampton  3i7    Hartford 
Haverhill        -        -  252. 

Haystack  Mountain 
Health  of  the  west     - 
Herkirner    54        Hector  Falls 
Highlands   21        Hell  Gate 
Hoboken     14.  11  Honesdalc 


17 

360 
226 
283 
254 
392 
102 
212 
29 


Hotels  and  Boarding  houses  N.  Y.  9 


Honseof  P,ef  go  -         •  13 

I  hid -on  City  ...         -      33 

Kivt'r  stran)l>oat8  -    11.  IG 

Hunt  Farm  247         Hyde  Park    27 

I 

Innndiition, White  Alonntains  301-2 
l-slc  au.v  Noi.s  -         -         -     158 

Ithar.i  II!  1  \'  Owogo  Railroad      104 

Falls       -         -         -  101 

J 

Jaoqnes  Cat  tier      -         -         -     182 

.Ja'  vi«'«  Faun    -         -         -  248 

J(!W<tt  s  City  ...    203 

John.son,  !>ir  William,  -  49 

Kingston        ....      27 

Li 

Lackawana  River  .  .  29 
Lachii'O  ....  171 
Lake  Georffe  131  Lakes  87 
of  the  Clouds     -        -          310 

St  Peter        -         -        -     180 

Lnicaster  254  Laprairic  163 
Lead  Aline  -      -         -  ^36.  298 

Lel)anon  Springs        -        -  38 

Lehigh  Water  Gap  -  -  365 
Lexington  286  Little  Falls  51 
Lockpoit  68  Long  Branch  17 
Long  Island  14  Long  Level  54 
l.ovell'sPond  -  -  -  300 
Lorette,  village  of  -  -  201 
Lowrytown  -  -  -  .  366 
Lowell  238— 290    Lynn    -         314 

Manufactories  in  New  England  268 

Manayunk    358    Marblehead  316 

Alauch  rhunk         -         -        .  365 

Meredith  ...  993 

M^rrim  ick  River  ...  292 

.'Michigan  ...  384 

■Mi  Idletown  223        McRea  208 

AMIier's  Kails  209     Missouri  R.  391 

Montreal    ....  164 
i^lohawk  Castle  50 
Mount  Carbon  301 

Vernon 

Wa.sliington 


Morristown  93 

Holyoke    237 

-    333 

307  to  311 


IVahant 


X 


N  sliiia  Village 


-    279 
290 
Natchez  -         -        -        -     398 

Newark  15        New  Brunswick  373 
Newburgh  .        .        _  26 

Ncwcustle  &  Frenchtown  R.  R.338 


^  '.r*,^ 


. 

13 

- 

33 

H    -      11 

.  ir» 

c  Park 

t27 

UiiiiH  301-2 

. 

158 

Iioiid 

1U4 

- 

101 

. 

182 

. 

248 

. 

2P3 

- 

49 

- 

27 

. 

29 

- 

171 

akes 

87 

• 

310 

- 

180 

rairic 

163 

ii36. 

298 

- 

38 

- 

365 

c  Falls 

51 

Branch    17 

Level 

54 

. 

300 

. 

201 

. 

306 

- 

314 

Ingland  268 

elicad 

316 

• 

365 

. 

993 

. 

293 

• 

3H4 

lea 

208 

uri  R 

391 

. 

164 

ristown  93 

yoke 

2;n 

. 

333 

307  to  311 

^ 

979 

- 

290 

. 

393 

swick  373 

- 

26 

R.  Ivi33() 

^ 


INDEX. 


Nrw  Kn;rlnn«l,ToMrof  -  -  210 
Newldiryport  317  Newport  263 
New  Ifiivnii  -         -  <i\'2 

do  do  &■  I'uriniri'.ton  <'nniili^ir) 
New  noj)n  3011  New  I.oiidoii  255 
New  Jersey  School  Kuiid  -  371 
New  Orleans      -        -        •  397 

New  York  !0  to  20.  Buy  -  374 
Maparii  Kails         -  69  to  79 

Norfolk    330  Norristown     35rt 

^orthiunpton  -  -  236  to  2 10 
Norwich  ...  -  i)(i0 
>otchorVVIi  Mountains  305 to 306 


o 


59 


10 
37d 

29< 

58 

.  92 

1(11 


Objects  in  New- York 
0:denbl)urgh  94     Oliio  Valley 
Old  Man  of  tlie  Mountain 
Oneida  Cisile,     - 
dswe^fo  92  &.  Canal 
Overslaugh  34        Ovid 

P 

Talisadoa  17  Park 
Passaic  Falls  15  I'aterson 
Pawtucket  269  Pemigcwassct  293 
Pennsylvania  Canul  -  -  354 
I'ennyan     -        -        -         -  Hfl 

Philadelphia  -  -  345  to  353 
do  steamboats  to  -  -  9 
Pine  Orchard  31  l'«iiinfield  203 
Fittsburph  395 
riynioutli        281 


It 
15 


riuttsburgh 


Portland 


Point  Aux  Trembles 


150 
320 

182 


Tort  Carbon  361 

Genesee  91 

■•     156 

Poughkeepsie  27 

-     372 

■     304 

266 


Portsmoutii    318 
Port  I>alhousio85 

Kent 

Tottsgrove    358 
Princeton 
Prospect  Mountain 
Providence 

Quebec 
Quincy  Railway 

R 

Randolph   - 
Rapid«orSt.Lawrencel60.176. 181 

of  Niagara  -        -         -  75 

Red  Mountain    -        -        -  294 

Rensseliaerwyck    -        -        -  42 

Rideau  Canal               -         -  173 

Ridge  Road     68      Rochester  61 

Rockaway  Hotel  and  Beach  14 

Rocky  Hill     -        -        -        -  224 

Rome        58           Roxbury  27o 

Koyalton        -        -        -        -  249 


1  84  to  200 
-    270 

249 


RoUTKS 

lly  Hudson  River       -        -     11    18 
For  travelling  ...       15 

From  Albany  to  Springs    -  lli9 

A\il)urn  to  Syracn.se        -     106 

do         <lo  by  canal  -  106 

Bath  to  VVh  Mountains        253 

Baltimore  to  Piiiladelphia 

by  steamb  t  ^:  railroad     337 

Boston         -         -        232.  283 

Boston  to  VVh.  Mountains  286 

Bo.-ton  to  M  line     -        -     313 

I'ulValo  to  (^anandaigua        97 

Centre  Harbor  to  (!onway293 

Cliarleston  to  N.  York         336 

do         to  Norfolk        33'J 

Cenrva  -         -         -      102 

Hartford     ...  22S 

Mniitpt'lier  to  Burlington    251 

Montreal  to  (In   b^e        -     174 

New  Haven  to  Midtllotown  217 

New  London  to  l*rovidenct25fi 

do  to  Norwich      258 

Magar  I  to  Montre;il      >      95 

.       do        to  Albany    -  94 

Norfolk  to  VVa-.hinf.'ton      337 

do  to  Balti'n!  by  st.  bt.    337 

do  to  Kichm'd  I)y  do      337 

Norwich  to  Providence       262 

Portland        -        -     323.  324 

(hiebec  to  Bcston  -    201 

do     to  .Montrenl  by  land  202 

Richmond  to  Washington  337 

t'avannah  to  Charleston      334 

Schenectady  to  Albany  by 

canal    -        -  -     108 

St.  Johns  to  Whitehall       203 

Syracuse  to  I'tica      -  107 

Utica  to  Schenectady    -     107 

VVateiford  to  the  Springs  109 

Worcester  •         -  231 

Whitehall      -        -        -    206 

Through  New  England      -         210 
To  Canada    -        -        -  -146  to  84 

the  Coal  Mines  -        -         ?55 

— —        do      do  Lehigh        -     357 

do      do  Mauch  Chunk  362 

liake  George  -        -     128 

Spring   and  Fal's       .  36 

St.  l..ouis,  via  Lake  Erie      383 

do        from  N.York     -    383 

the  Western  Country  -        380 

Routes,  Remarks  on,      -       -    126 
Route  up  Connecticut  R.  220  to  254 


8 


INDEX. 


N 

Socketts  IJurbor         -        -  03 

Sa  nin        -JN  Salinn  <)l 

Salt  Spi  iii^'8  Sc  suit  tnaiiiif actor's  f)!) 
Saiuly  Hill  -        '         -     I'-J'.^ 

Surntoga  Springs      -        liJI  to  I'JI 


Lako 
Savannah  'SM 
Sayhrook     2\>i 


liiO 

.'{() 

182 

1«>9 
l.)n 
177 
3!I7 
37 
48 
125 


8aiigertic8  R 
St.  Antuino 
St.  AupiistiiK!     -         -         - 
8t   (.'atliariues  85     St.  Helens 
St  .lolins         .        -        -         - 
St  Lawrence  River    - 
St.  Louis         .        -         -         - 
Scheiioctady  47  Si.  Railroad 
Scholnnie  Creek     -        -        - 
Sclmylerville     -         -        - 
Schuylkill  Canal     -         -   356— 3.=>7 
do        V^  ater  Gap        -  360 

Seneca  Castle  97  Si.  Lake 
Shaker's  Village,  Lebanon, 
Simpson  8  Farm     - 
Sleepy  H.»llow   - 
Sodus  Bay      -        -         - 
Soil  of  the  west 
Sorel      -        -        -        - 
South  Carolina  Rnil  Road 

Had  ley  l-alla 

Springfield 
Stafford  Springs 
Starkie's  I'oint 
Staten  Island 
State  Prison  20.  104 
Stonington        258 
Stafford!  opperas works 
Susquehanuah  Railroad     - 
Syracuse         .        -        -        - 

T 

Tappan        20        Tarrytown 
Taunton     267        Thomaslown  325 
Three  Rivers  -        -        -    180 

1'liousand  Islands 
Ticonderoga 
Timber  of  the  west   - 
Trenton  Falls 
Trenton  (N.  J.) 


lOi 

41 

120 

20 

91 

3H9 

179 

335 

235 

.    233 

228 

-     101 

-  14.  373 

Stillwater  110 

Stoney  Pt.  21 

2.52 

343 

59 

20 


91 
144 

388 

55 

370 


Troy      44 
Union  Canal 
College 


IT 

Turi.er's  Falla 
-     350. 
47        1,'tica 


241 

358 

54 

42 

45 

245 

21 

338 

-203 

140-143 


United  States  Arsenal 

Van  Rensselaer  School 
Vermont      250        Vernon 
Vorplanck's  Point 
V'rgiiiia  Sprinps 
Voyage  on  L  Champlain  150 
(ieorge 

w 

VVadswortk  I  ariu       .        .  98 

Waldoborough        .         •  .    325 

Walpolo      ....  246 

Washington  328  it  College  227 

Watchusett  Hills     .        .  .231 

Welles        ....  319 

Wei  land  Canal         .        .  .81 

West  Itloonifield         .        .  99 
Westminster  ....    246 

West  Point          ...  23 

Western  History    .        .  .    386 

. Schools         .        .  394 

States        .        .    394—385 

— — Steamboats  .        .  388 

Traveller 

Weather 

Wethersfield   . 
Whirlpool,  r^iagara  River 
Whitehall 
White  Mountains 
River 


374- 


-382 

394 

224 

72 

205 

304  to  312 

.    240 

Willard's  Academy,  Troy  .  45 

"" .305 

232.  248 
338 


Willey  House 

Windsor 

Winds  in  the  west 

Winnipiseogee  Lake 

Wiscasset    . 

Wolfe  s  Cove 

Statue 

Worcester 

Y 

Yale  College 
York 


182 


294 
324 
196 
188 
230 

SI  4 

87 


,'ticu   Tvl 
42 


THK 


9n 


ge 


45 

245 
2J 

333 
150—203 
14U-143 


98 
325 
246 
227 
^31 
319 
.   81 
99 
.  246 
23 
.  386 
394 
3S4— 385 
388 
374_-:i82 
394 
.  224 
72 
205 
304  to  312 
.  249 
r.         45 
305 
»232.  248 
338 
.  294 
324 
182  196 
183 
.  230 


er 


214 

87 


NORTHERN  TRAVELLER. 


THE  CITY  OF  NEW- YORK. 

Hotels  and  Boarding  Houses.  (Beginning  near 
the  Battery.)  The  Atlantic,  Adelphi,  Mansion 
House,  (Bunker's,)  Mrs.  Keese's,  Miss  Boyd's, 
Miss  Mann's,  the  National,  City  Hotel,  Webb's, 
Franklin  Housp,  American,  (opposite  the  Park,) 
Washington,  Masonic  Hall,  (opposite  the  Hospi- 
tal,) Niblo's,  (Corner  of  Prince-street.) 

The  above  are  in  Broadway. 

Holt's  is  the  largest  Hotel  in  the  United  States, 
of  marble,  6  stories  high,  and  convenient  to  the 
eastern  steamboats.  Food  &c,  is  raised  from  the 
kitchen  by  a  steam  engine  of  12  horse  power. 
It  is  at  the    corner  of  Fidton   and  Pearl-streets. 

Besides  these  are  Merchants'  Hotel,  (Broad-st.) 
Tammany  Hall,  U.  S.  Hotel,  Clinton  Hall,  Ton- 
tine and  N.  Y.  Coffee  Houses,  Pearl-street  House, 
and  many  others  in  different  parts  of  the  city. 

The  Battery  is  a  delightful  walk  in  warm  weath- 
er, commanding  a  view  of  the  Bay  and  Hudson 
River,  with  the  opposite  Jersey  shore,  Govern- 
or's, Gibbet,  Bedlow's,  Slatch  and  part  of  Long 
Ishinds,  enlivened  by  ships  and  steamboats. 

Tl»e  Philadelphia  Steamhoats  start  from  the 
wharves  near  the  north  end  of  the  Battery,  and 
the  Staten  Island  boats  from  the  south  eastern 
corner. 


10 


CITY    OF    NEW-YORK. 


Principal  objects  of  interest  in  the  city  of  New- 

York, 

Leaving  the  Battery  and  the  Bowling  Green, 
and  proceeding  up  Broadway,  we  pass  Grace  and 
Trinity  Churches.  .  Opposite  the  latter  opens 
Wall-street,  where  are  most  of  the  Banks  and 
Insurance  Officeb  in  the  city,  the  1st  Presbyterian 
Church,  the  Cvstom  House   and    the 

Exchange,  'Change  hours  are  from  about  2  to  3 
o'clock.  In  the  Exchange  are  the  Post  OfTiee, 
Foreign  Letter  bag  Office,  News  Room,  and  here 
and  in  the  vicinity  are  the  offices  of  the  daily 
newspapers.  tr  .,m  i,.,..,  j 

The  ranges  of  spacious  stores  and  ware  houses 
in  this  part  of  the  city  are  worthy  of  attention. 
Numerous  vessels  belonging  to  various  lines  of 
foreign  and  domestic  packets  are  found  among 
those  which  crowd  the  wharves  above  and  below 
Coffee  House  slip,  which  is  at  the  foot  of  Wall- 
street. 

Returning  to  Broadway,  and  passing  the  City 
Hotel,  the  National  and  Webb's,  Liberty  and 
Courtlandt-streets  on  the  left,  lead  to  some  of  the 
North  River  steamboats,  the  Newark  steamboat 
and  the  ferry  to  Powles  Hook.  Liberty-street  on 
the  right  leads  to  Grant  Thorburn's  Green  House. 
The  City  Library  is  in  Nassau-street.  Maiden 
Lane,  a  street  of  retailers  of  Dry  Goods,  leads 
down  to  the  right.  Beyond,  Fulton-street  leads, 
on  the  right,  to  Fulton  Market,  Brooklyn  ferry, 
i*nd  near  to  the  Providence,  N.  Haven,  Hartford 
and  other  Eastern  steamboats.  [A  walk  on 
Brooklyn  Heights  is  recommended  to  the  stran- 
ger, as  they  command  the  finest  near  view  of  the 
city  and  environs,] 


CITY    OF    NEW-YORK. 


11 


St.  Paul's  Church  is  in  Broadway  near  Fulton- 
streot,  with  the  monument  to  Gen.  Montgomery, 
in  front.  In  the  Church  yard  is  seen  the  mon- 
ument to  the  late  Thomas  Addis  Emmet.  It 
is  a  marble  obelisk.  )pposite  is  Scudder's  ex- 
tensive American  Museum. 

The  Astor  Hotel  now  building,  is  to  occupy  the 
front  on  Broadway,  between  Vesey  and  Barclay-st. 

The  Park  has  the  City  Hall  in  the  middle,  with 
the  Register's  Oflice  on  the  east,  Bridewell  west, 
and  the  new  City  Hall  north.  Adjacent,  on  the 
eastern  side,  are  Clinton  Hall,  containing  the 
Mercantile  Library  and  the  gallery  of  the  Na- 
tional Academy  ;  the  Bible  and  Tract  Societies' 
spacious  edifices ;  the  Park  Theatre  ;  the  Brick 
Church  and  Tammany  Hall.  Public  School  No. 
1  is  on  Tryon  Row;  the  New- York  University, 
temporarily  in  Chambers-street,  and  at  a  little 
distance  from  it  the  Manhattan  Water  Works  and 
Arcade  Baths. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Park  is  PafF's  exhibi- 
tion of  Pictures ;  and  in  Barclay-street  the  Exhi- 
bition of  the  American  Acadeiny  of  Fine  Arts, 
and  the  painting  room  of  John  TrHmbull  Esq.  At 
the  foot  of  the  street  is  the  Hohoken  Ferry,  with 
the  wharf  of  some  of  the  North  River  Steamboats, 
Just  below  these  is  Washington  Market.  A  visit 
to  Hoboken  is  recommended,  on  a  pleasant  morn- 
ing or  afternoon. 

Columbia  College  is  in  a  fine  square  at  the  foot 
of  Park  Place,  with  the  Grammar  school  in  Mur- 
ray-street,   opposite    the    Murray-street   Church. 

The  Athenmum  is  at  the  corner  of  Broadway 
and  Chambers-street. 

The  New-Yurk  Hospital  is  on  Broadway,  oppo- 


' 


1 


r 


12 


CITY    OF    NEW    YORK. 


site  Pearl-street  just  beyond  Masonic  Hall,  and 
near  the  N.  York  Museum.  Broadway  extends 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  further  north,  broad,  strait 
and  well  built,  and  is  the  finest  street  in  America. 

The  Mechanics'  Institution  is  in  Crosby-street 
above  Grand-street. 

There  are  above  100  places  of  public  \f  orship ; 
The  Public  Schools  of  the  city  are  now  14  :  they 
are  of  brick,  generally  42  by  85  feet  and  of  three 
stories;  and  there  are  i 3  new  primary  schools. 
All  these  are  under  the  direction  of  the  Public 
School  Society  of  the  city,  which  consists  of  73 
Trustees,  and  expends  an  income  of  nearly 
$90,000.  The  schools  are  on  the  Lancasterian 
system.  Children  who  are  able,  pay  $1,50  per 
quarter,  the  poor  pay  nothing.*      .  r 


I  1    *.•       f  •  -  >  ■  I  T  ^  ■ 


•^Common  Schools  iti  the  Stole  of  N.  York.  (Exclusire  of  the  City.) 
It  appears  from  the  Report  of  the  Superintendent  of  Commou  Schools, 
that  the  whole  number  of  school  di.«tricts  in  the  State  of  Now-York  on 
the  31st  of  December,  1833,  was  9690,  from  9107  of  which,  reports  have 
been  received,  showing  an  aggreg-ite  (in  9 1 07  schools)  of  512,475  scholars. 
The  whole  number  of  children  in  said  districts  between  the  ages  of  5  and 
10  was  522,r>18.  On  an  average  the  scliuols  were  taught  eight  months  in 
the  year.  Increase  of  scholars  in  the  schools  as  compared  with  the  pre- 
vious year,  17,516.  Increase  of  children  between  the  ages  of  5  and  16 
years,  residing  in  the  districts,  13,756.  The  whole  amount  paid  for  teach- 
ers* wages  during  the  year  was  $307,733  08 ;  of  which,  $100,000  was 
received  from  the  Common  School  Fund,  $189,139  84  was  raised  by  tax 
on  the  inhabitants,  and  $18,593  24  was  derived  from  local  funds  belonging 
to  particular  towns.  The  productivt  capital  of  the  Common  School  Fund 
was  increased  during  the  year  ending  30th  iSept  last,  by  the  sum  of 
$118,871  56,  and  now  amounts  to  $1,754,046  84.  Add  $:73,()()4  20,  the  es- 
timated amount  of  unpruductivt  capital;  and  we  have  a  total  of  ^'1,927, 
711  04. 

The  law  requires,  thflt  each  town  receivina;  money  from  the  treasury, 
ehall  raise  an  equal  sum  by  tax  for  the  supp>>rt  of  schools.  Before  they 
can  draw  from  the  treasury,  also,  they  must  have  a  school  house,  and  a 
teacher  employed  three  months.  N.York  hiis  64  incorporated  and  several 
unincorporated  academies  'J'he  former  have  been  established  and  en- 
dowed with  about  $'100,000,  and  receive  about  $10^000  from  the  state. 
There  are  21  i  egents  of  the  Universjity  who  conl'er  medical  and  other 
degrees  above  M.  A  ,  incorporalt;  academic?,  inspect  them  and  the  colle- 
ges, and  report  on  them  and  distribute  the  literature  fund  among  the  $ 
■euate  districts,  for  th«  commou  schools. 


CITY   OF   NEW-YORK. 


13 


of  5  and  16 


The  House  of  Refuge  is  on  2ith-st.  between  the 
4th  and  5th  Avenues,  a  half  mile  beyond  the  north- 
ern termination  of  Broadway;  the  Orphan  Asylum, 
in  Greenwich  near  7th  Avenue;  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb  Institution,  near  tho  3d  Avenue,  4  miles 
north  of  the  city  ;  the  Blind  Institution  3  miles, 
8th  Avenue,  between  33d  and  34th  street;  the 
Almshouse,  at  Bellevue,  on  the  East  River;  the 
Penitentiary,  on  BlackwelTs  Island ;  the  Lunatic 
Asylum,  at  Bloomingdale,  6  miles  from  the  city. 

The  finest  points  of  view  in  the  city  arc  the 
tops  of  the  Exchange  and  the  City  Hall,  to  which 
access  may  be  obtained.  The  portraits  in  the 
latter  are  worthy  of  attention. 

Foreign  Packets,  The  London,  Liverpool 
and  Havre  packets  sail  on  the  1st,  8th,  l6th  and 
24th  of  every  month.  Letters  and  packages  left 
at  the  post  office  or  letter  bag  office  in  the  Ex- 
change, are  sent  for  6d  each. 

Public  Coaches,  Numerous  elegant  Omnibus- 
es, &c.  are  constantly  passing  between  Wall-st. 
or  its  vicinity  and  the  most  important  parts  of 
the  city,  N.  and  N.  E.  through  Broadway,  Canal, 
Water  and  other  streets.  A  ride  is  1  shilling — 
6  tickets  for  50  cents. 

[Hackney  Coaches  are  hired  at  the  following 
rates, — penalty  for  demanding  more,  or  for  refu- 
sing to  go  when  not  engaged,  $10:  for  not  hav- 
ing a  copy  of  the  rates  in  the  carriage,  ^15. 

For  any  distance  not  over  a  mile,  for  each  per- 
son, 25  cents.  Over  1  mile,  within  the  lamp  and 
watch  district,  each  person,  50  cents.  Do.  for  2 
persons,  37J  cents  each.  For  each  additional 
person,  25  cents.     For  the  1st  or  Sandy  Hill  tour, 

1* 


d 


M 


14 


CITY    OF    NEW-YORK. 


for  not  more  than  4  persons,  $\  for  all.  Do.  do. 
2d  tour,  $2,  Do.  do.  3d  tour,  $2,50.  Do.  to 
Harlaem  and  back,  $4.  Do.  King's  bridge  and 
back,  with  the  privilege  of  the  carriage  all  day, 
$5.  A  coach  may  be  hired  by  time  at  75  cents 
per  hour,  and  in  proportion  for  more  or  less.] 
Excursions  from  New- York. 

Brooklyn  and  Hohoken  offer  the  attractions  oi 
beautiful  views  over  the  city,  bay  and  vicinity. 
The  former  is  pleasantest  in  the  morning  and  the 
latter  P.  M.  A  delightful  shady  walk  leads  from 
the  latter,  a  mile  or  more  to  the  Elysian  fields, 
where  are  open  lawns  and  fine  views. 

Staten  Island  commands  a  most  extensive  view, 
from  the  Pavilion,  over  the  two  bays  and  shores, 
the  city,  and  a  portion  of  the  ocean.  Near  the 
water  are  the  Quarantine  Hospitals,  the  Sailor's 
Snug  Harbor  and  the  Marine  Hospitals. 

On  Long"  Island  nre  many  pleasant  rides;  and 
stage  coaches  run  from  Brooklyn  to  different  parts. 
The  Navy  Yard  is  near  that  village.  A  rail  road 
is  to  be  constructed  to  Jamaica.  Bath  or  New 
Utrecht,  Coney  Island  and  Rockaway*  on  the  south 
shore,  and  Oysterhay  on  the  north,  are  resorts 
for  bathing,  fishing  <fec.  Prince's  Botanic  Gar- 
den at  Flushing  is  extensive  and  interesting.  It 
occupies  about  30  acres.  A  steamboat  runs  twice 
a  day.     Mr.  Loubat's  vineyard  is  at  Red  Hook. 

Long  Branch,  35  miles  S.  of  N.  York  on  the 
Jersey  coast,  is  a  fashionable  retreat,  with  two 
large  hotels.     A  steamboat  runs  daily   to   Red 

*  A  splendid  Hotel  has  recently  been  erected  at  Rockaway  beach.  The 
building  is  250  feet  in  length,  and  from  the  promenade  roof  and  galleries, 
there  is  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  Sandy  Hook,  the 
BighUnds  and  of  Uie  shipping  sailiogtoandfto.  i  i..^^  ^ij 


ROUTES    FROM    NEW-YORK, 


15 


Bank,  on  Shrewsbury  river,  whence  coaches  run, 
5  miles. 

Newark^  (New  Jersey,)  10  miles  fromN.  York, 
is  a  beautiful  and  flourishing  village,  extensively 
engaged  in  manufactures,  at  the  beginning  of  the 
Morris  Canal,  which  extends  across  the  state  to 
the  Delaware.  One  of  the  fine  inclined  jJanes 
which  are  used  instead  of  locks,  surmounts  a  hill 
west  of  the  village. 

A  Rail  Road  will  lead  to  Newark  from  Povvles 
Hook,  an  excursion  on  which  is  recommended. 

Many  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  in  dif- 
ferent directions  from  New-York,  particularly 
in  the  North  River  Steamboats,  and  on  L.  I.  Sound. 

Paterson,  N.  J.  is  an  important  manufacturing 
village,  17  miles  from  N.  York,  the  route  to  which 
is  partly  by  a  rail  road.  The  water  is  supplied 
by  the  Passaic,  which  there  makes  a  picturesque 
fiill  of  70  feet.  The  Paterson  Rail  road  begins 
at  Bergen,  2  miles  from  New-York,  and  extends 
14  miles.  Stage  coaches  leave  the  foot  of  Court- 
landt-street  three  times  a  day,  cross  the  ferry,  and 
carry  passengers  to  the  cars  at  Bergen.  ;? 

HarlcBm  Rail  Road.     A  Bowery  Stage  Coach 

or  Omnibus   will   take  a  passenger   to  this  Rail 

Road  for  1  shilling,  and  thence  large  cars  proceed 

northward.  I' 

General  Remarks  on  different  routes. 

From  the  city  of  New-York  many  travellers  will 
annually  commence  their  Eastern,  Northern  and 
Western  tours. 

It  is  generally  best,  in  travelling  for  health  or 
pleasure,  to  go  westward  early,  to  avoid  exposure 
to  fevers  which  prevail  there  most  in  the  autumn : 


: 


16 


NfiW-YORK   TO    ALBANY. 


and  not  to  visit  Canada  too  early  or  too  late  for 
fear  of  cold  weather. 

In  New  England  in  August  and  September  the 
annual  commencements  of  the  different  universi- 
ties and  colleges  are  celebrated,  which  attract 
many  intelligent  travellers. 

Rail  roads  have  already  added  much  to  tht  fa- 
cility, convenience  and  cheapness  of  travelling  on 
some  routes,  and  new  ones  are  constructing  in 
different  states,  several  of  which  will  probably  be 
completed  and  in  use  for  the  first  time  the  pre- 
sent year. 

PASSAGE  UP  THE  HUDSON  RIVER. 

On  leaving  New-York,  the  traveller  finds  him- 
self in  the  midst  of  a  fine  and  varied  scene.  The 
battery  lies  behind  him,  with  Governor's  Island 
and  Castle  Williams  projecting  beyond ;  still 
more  distant  opens  the  passage  called  the  Nar- 
rows, with  Staten  Island  on  the  right,  leading  to 
Sandy  Hook  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  which  is  22 
miles  from  the  city.  On  thv7  west  side  of  the  Bay 
are  Bedlow's  and  Gibbet  Islands,  with  fortifica- 
tions ;  the  point  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  is 
Powles  Hook,  on  which  stands  a  small  town  in 
New-Jersey  called  Jersey  City;  and  the  village 
of  Hoboken  is  seen  a  mile  or  more  up  the  river. 
The  hills  of  Weehawken  appear  beyond.  As  the 
boat  movss  rapidly  on,  it  passes  the  crowded  line 
of  buildings  in  Washington-street,  the  North,  Bat- 
tery^ and  the  village  of  Greenwich  ;  with  the  build- 
ing formerly  the  State  Prison,  the  Episcopal  The- 
ological Seminary  and  the  Blind  Asylum  in  suc- 
cession. 
'•    At  Weehawken,  under  a  ledge  of  rocks  facing 


*^i*7*' 


Y. 


r  too  late  for 

September  the 
rent  universi- 
whicii  attract 

luch  to  the  fa- 
f  travelling  on 
)ns  true  ting  in 
II  probably  be 
time  the  pre- 

^  RIVER. 
Her  finds  him- 
I  scene.     The 
rnor's  Island 
leyond ;     still 
led    the   Nar- 
it,   leading  to 
I,  which  is  22 
de  of  the  Bay 
nth   fortifica- 
le  Hudson  is 
mall  town  in 
1  the   village 
up  the  river, 
'ond.    As  the 
crowded  line 
e  North  Bat- 
1th  the  build- 
iscopal  The- 
r'lum  in  sue- 


,  J  j 


il 


rocks  facing 


(T 


|: 


JVin-f?» 


XJ/.rl^r  F.n.,r.V.Y. 


Ni'rtI* 


IMAiiis 


,;■  F.„.,r  .v.r. 


H.olwf 


ii>  li'Jin  I*"' 


11 


\>  ) 


■*    ^   t«    • « 


.1 


X'if/i 


A       I.       «V 


•""^v/  7/  ;r 


i'i:it;ivi<-i  •<      VX  V 


^1^!!^"^:;^:''^^ 


X 


X 


niif '•|'''':"lln•%(•(n^^^^;l'■""''"f''?''((^^ 


IT       1'     S       l'      ^; 


«.'.7.,T 


;■   i 


^   i| 


M  li 


H 


J 


^ 


FORT    WASHINGTON.    ' 


17 


StiftJft'tfit 


the  ri\er,  and  about  the  distance  of  three  miles 
from  the  city,  is  the  spot  where  General  Alexan- 
der Hamilton  fell  in  a  duel  with  Col.  Burr.  A 
monument  of  white  marble  was  erected  to  his 
memory  on  the  place;  but  it  has  been  removed 
within  a  few  years.  This  is  the  common  duelling 
ground  for  combatants  from  the  city,  and  many 
lives  have  been  lost  on  the  fatal  spot. 
\  I'he  Palisadoes — a  remarkable  range  of  pre- 
cipices of  trap  rock,  which  begins  near  this  place, 
extends  up  the  river  on  the  west  side  20  miles,  to 
Tappan,  and  forms  a  singular,  and  in  many  places 
an  impassable  boundary.  In  some  places  an  old 
red  sandstone  foundation  is  seen  below ;  but  the 
great  mass  of  the  rocks  presents  the  mural  preci- 
pices of  the  trap  formation,  and  rises  from  the 
height  of  15  or  20  feet  to  500  or  550.  ^^W 

'  The  eastern  shore  of  the  river  opposite  the  Pa- 
lisadoes, is  for  many  miles  handsomely  rounded 
with  hills,  and  presents  many  scenes  of  cultiva- 
tiofl,  which  contrast  with  the  rude  cliffs  on  the 
left.  The  soil  is  inferior;  and  the  wood  land  en- 
crx)aches  too  much  upon  the  fields  and  orchards. 

The  Lunatic  Asylum,  about  7  miles  from  the 
city,  is  a  large  building  of  hewn  stone,  occupying 
a  commanding  situation. 

HarlcBvi  Heights  are  a  short  distance  further. 
They  form  an  elevated  ridge  across  Manhattan 
island,  on  which  a  line  of  fortifications  was  thrown 
up  during  the  Revolution  and  the  late  war  quite 
over  to  the  East  river. 

Fort  Lee,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  is  sit- 
uated on  the  brow  of  the  Palisadoes^  more  than 
JiOO  feet  above  the  river. 
.    Fort  Washington  was  a  fortress  on  the  top  of 


18 


NEW-YORK   TO   ALBANY. 


a  high  rounded  hill,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
12  miles  from  New-York.  In  October,  1776, 
when  Gen.  Washington  had  evacuated  the  city, 
and,  subsequently  to  the  battle  of  White  Plains^ 
(for  which  see  just  beyond,)  had  drawn  off  his 
army  to  Fort  Lee,  Fort  Washington  was  kept 
garrisoned,  contrary  to  his  advice,  and  was  at- 
tacked in  four  divisions.  The  Hessians  and  Wal- 
deckers,  under  Gen.  Knyphausen,  went  up  the  hill 
on  the  north  side,  Gen.  Matthews  on  the  east, 
with  the  English  light  infantry  and  guards,  march- 
ed against  the  entrenchments,  which  reached  al- 
most to  the  East  river.  Col.  Sterling  made  a  feint 
of  crossing  that  river  lower  down,  while  Lord 
Percy  with  a  very  strong  corps  was  to  act  against 
the  western  flank. 

The  Hessians  suffered  much  from  the  riflemen 
in  passing  the  swamp,  but  succeeded,  with  the 
other  divisions,  in  driving  the  Americans  into  this 
fort,  where  they  all  surrendered,  to  the  number 
of  2500  men,  including  militia.  They  had  lost 
very  few ;  but  the  British  lost  about  800, 

Fort  Lee  was  immediately  evacuated  ;  but  the 
British  crossed  so  speedily  at  Dobbs's  Ferry,  that 
they  took  the  artillery,  military  stores,  baggage, 
and  tents  of  the  American  army. 

Battle  of  White  Plains,  \n  October,  1776, 
soon  after  the  American  troops  evacuated  New- 
York,  while  General  Washington  had  his  army 
assembled  at  Kingsbridge,  and  the  British  were 
in  possession  of  the  island  up  as  far  as  Harlaem, 
General  Howe  came  up  the  East  river,  with  an 
intention  of  surrounding  the  Americans.  He  left 
his  German  corps  at  New-Rochelle,  and  marched 
for  the  high  grounds  at  White  Plains,   several 


FORT   INDE/PENDENCE. 


19 


miles  east  of  the  Hudson,  to  seize  the  interior 
road  between  the  city  and  Connecticut. .' 

Washington  penetrated  his  design,  and  intrench- 
ed himseJt*  on  the  west  side  of  the  small  river 
Bronx,  with  his  right  on  Valentine's  hill,  and  his 
left  on  White  Plains.  He  had  garrisons  near  Har- 
laem,  at  Kingsbridge,  and  Fort  Washington. 
Skirmishes  were  kept  up  till  the  British  approach- 
ed very  near;  when  Washington  assembled  all 
his  troops  in  a  strong  camp  on  the  heights  near 
the  plains,  with  the  Bronx  in  front  and  on  the 
right  flank,  and  a  mountainous  region  in  the  rear. 
The  right  was  more  accessible ;  and  General 
M*Dougal  was  sent  to  intrench  himself  on  a  moun- 
tain about  a  tiJle  in  front. 

On  the  morning  of  October  28th,  the  British 
advanced  in  two  columns:  the  right  commanded 
by  Gen.  Clinton,  and  the  left  by  Gen.  Heister.  The 
former  took  post  on  the  Mamaroneck  road  and 
the  latter  on  the  Bronx,— the  armies  being  a  mile 
distant.  Col.  Ralle  with  a  Hessian  regiment  fell 
upon  General  M'Dougal  in  flank,  while  Leslie  at- 
tacked him  in  front  with  a  brigade.  The  militia 
soon  fled,  but  the  regular  iroops  resisted  until 
overpowered.  The  British  determined  to  wait; 
and  on  the  following  morning,  finding  the  Ameri- 
can position  much  strengthened,  and  a  height  in 
the  rear  occupied  by  the  left  wing,  sent  for  more 
troops  and  erected  batteries.  Washington,  there- 
fore, retired  to  North  Castle ;  and  soon  after,  se- 
curing the  bridge  over  the  Croton,  and  Peekskill, 
crossed  the  Hudson. 

Fort  Independence^  on  the  east  side  of  Hudson 
River,  'opposite,  the  Palisadoes  are  of  still 
greater  height,  . 


i  i  : 

ii  ' 
I  . 

■■i 

li 


20 


NEW-YORK    TO    ALBANY. 


Dohbs^s  Ferry,  10  miles. 

Tarrytown,  3J  miles.  This  is  the  place  where 
Major  Andre  was  stopped,  returning  from  his  visit 
to  Gen.  Arnold,  and  on  his  way  to  the  British 
lines.  The  place  was  then  neutral  gronnd,  as  the 
Americans  and  English  lay  encamped  ahove  and 
below.  The  tree  was  recently  standing  under 
which  his  captors  searched  him,  and  the  bank 
near  by  concealed  them  from  his  view  as  he 
approached  them.  It  was  a  large  tulip  tree,  26 
feet  round  and  111  feet  high.  It  was  struck  by 
lightning  in  1801.  ■  * 

Tappan,  on  the  west  side.  Major  Andre  was  ex- 
ecuted about  a  mile  west  of  Jo  river  in  this  town. 

The  State  Prison,  at  Singsing,  is  in  a  quadran- 
gle of  nearly  44  feet  by  480.  It  has  a  double 
stack  of  cells  built  back  to  back,  4  tiers  high  and 
200  on  each  tier:  in  all  800.  9  feet  distant  is 
the  outer  wall,  which  supports  a  gallery  running 
all  round;  size  of  the  cells,  3  feet  6  inches  by  7 
feet,  and  2  feet  door  way.  The  whole  work  was 
done  by  convicts,  and  a  great  part  is  of  hewn 
stone.  The  system  is  that  of  the  Auburn  prison, 
i;  The  Singsing  prison  is  in  plain  view  from  the 
steamboats,  being  only  a  few  feet  from  the  shore. 
The  excellence  of  this  system  of  prison  disci- 
pline, which  is  the  invention  of  Mr.  Lynds,  lately 
superintendent,  consists  in  its  economy  and  cutting 
off  nearly  all  intercourse  among  the  prisoners. 
They  are  separately  lodged  ;  and  though  they 
work  together,  they  can  seldom  converse,  even 
by  signs,  and  therefore  can  concert  nothing,  and> 
cannot  contaminate  each  other. 
iiJSIeepy  Hollow,  re.idered  interesting  by  Mr. 
Irving,  is  a  little  above  Singsing.  i  i  >h    !;> 


FORT    MONTGOMERY. 


21 


lace  where 
om  his  visit 
:h8  British 
Hind,  as  the 
ahove  and 
ding  under 

the  bank 
^iew  as  he 
lip  tree,  26 

struck  by 

d re  was  ex- 

i  this  town. 

a  quadran- 

5    a    double 

I's  high  and 

^t  distant  is 

ry  running 

nches  by  7 

work  was 

s   of  hewn 

rn  prison. 

from   the 

the  shore. 

son   disci- 

nds,  lately 

nd  cutting 

prisoners. 

ugh  they 

rse,   even 

hing,  and 

by  MrJ 


The  Entrance  of  the  Highlands  is  a  short  dis- 
tance beyond  this  place,  and  40  miles  from  New- 
Yjrk.  This  is  a  region  no  less  remarkable  for 
the  importani  military  events  of  which  it  has  been 
the  theatre,  than  for  the  grandeur  and  nobleness 
of  its  natural  scenery. 

Stony  Point.  The  little  rough  promontory  on 
the  left,  nearly  a  mile  below  the  entrance  of  the 
Highlands,  was  a  fortified  position  during  the 
American  war.  The  British  took  it  from  Gen. 
Wayne  in  1778,  but  lost  it  again  the  same  year 
ll  by  surprise.  There  is  a  lighthouse  on  the 
top. 

Verplanck^s  Point,  on  the  opposite  side,  was 
also  the  site  of  a  fort;  but  is  now  ornamented 
with  a  handsome  private  mansion,  and  the  rocks 
near  the  landing  are  tastefully  variegated  with  a 
lawn,  an  arbour,  and  many  fine  trees. 

FORT  MONTGOMERY  AND  FORT  CLINTON.      5  milcS. 

These  forts  were  taken  by  Sir  Henry  Clinton, 
on  the  6th  of  October,  1777.  His  object  was  to 
co-operate  with  Gen.  Burgoyne,  at  that  time 
closely  watched  by  Gen.  Gates  near  Saratoga, 
and  to  afford  him  an  opportunity  to  force  his  way 
to  Hudson  river,  by  etfectiig  a  diversion  in  his 
favor.  Sir  H.  Clinton  had  left  New-York  with 
3  or  4,000  troops,  and  landed  at  Verplanck's 
Point.  A  detachment  was  sent  to  Stony  Point, 
and  marched  round  in  the  rear  of  these  forts,  then 
under  Gen.  Putnam,  and  garrisoned  by  1000  con- 
tinental troops,  part  of  whom  were  unfit  for  duty, 
and  a  small  number  of  militia. 

Gen.  Putnam,  supposing  the  object  of  the  expe- 
dition to  be  Fort  Independence,  crossed  the  river. 


^  'I 


?j 


m 


r 


i 


23 


NEW-YORK    TO    ALBANY. 


He  did  not  discover  their  real  intentions  until  he 
heard  the  firing  at  forts  Montgomery  and  Clinton, 
which  were  attacked  at  the  same  moment.  The 
lighting  hcgan  between  four  and  five  o'clock  P. 
M.  and  lasted  till  dark,  when  the  Americans  hav- 
ing lost  about  250  men,  the  forts  were  surrender- 
ed ;  but  all  the  troops  who  were  able,  about  450, 
efTectcJ  their  escape,  with  the  Governor  and  his 
brother  Gen.  James  Clinton.  The  dead  were 
thrown  into  Bloody  Pond,  in  the  rear  of  Fort 
Clinton.  Part  of  the  fleet,  under  Sir  James  Wal- 
lace, went  up  to  Kingston,  with  Gen.  Vaughan 
and  his  troops.  The  village  was  burnt  on  the 
13th  of  October.  The  British  proceeded  no  fur- 
ther than  that  place ;  for  the  news  of  Burgoyne's 
surrender  being  received  a  few  days  afterward, 
the  fleet  returned  to  New-York. 

Anthony^s  Nose,  This  mountain  (which  has  a 
profile  resembling  the  human  face)  rises  1228  feet 
from  the  river,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Montgomery 
Creek. 

The  Catskill  Mountains  are  in  sight  from  the 
top,  part  of  Connecticut,  the  Green  Mountains, 
with  a  view  down  the  Hudson,  extending  to  New- 
Jersey,  and  Harlaem  Heights,  Long  Island  Sound, 
&c.  Even  the  Lunatic  Asylum  in  New- York 
can  be  discovered. 

As  the  steamboat  proceeds,  several  points  are 
observed  projecting  into  the  river  some  distance 
above  ;  and  West  Point  makes  its  appearance  on 
the  left  hand,  with  the  ruins  of  Fort  Putnam,  ele- 
vated on  a  commanding  eminence,  a  little  beyond, 
598  feet  above  the  water's  level,  The  view  this 
fort  commands  over  this  wild  and   mountainous 


\r 


MILITARY    ACADEMY* 


23 


ns  until  he 
nd  Clinton, 
lent.     The 

o'clock  P. 
ricans  hav- 

snrrender- 

about  450, 
nor  and  his 
dead  were 
ar  of  Fort 
Fames  Wal- 
I.  Vaughan 
rnt  on  the 
ded  no  fiir- 
Burgoyne's 

afterward, 

hich  has  a 
s  1228  feet 
ontgomery 

from   the 
VIoun  tains, 
g  to  New- 
nd  Sound, 
Vew-York 

points  are 
distance 
arince  on 
tnarn,  ele- 
le  beyond, 
view  this 
)untainous 


neig 


hborhood,  as  well  as  its  connexion  with  our 
history,  will  render  it  worthy  of  a  visit.  There 
are  still  three  our  four  subterraneous  rooms  to  be 
seen,  and  the  place  is  often  visited.  This  fortress 
commanded  at  once  the  river  above  and  below 
West  Point,  and  the  passage  into  a  defile  which 
opens  through  the  mountains  westward.  A  fort 
stood  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  called  Fort 
Constitution. 

Kosciusko's  Monument    is    erected    at   West 
Point :   and  the  spot  is  still  shown  where  he  culti- 

■  vated  his  little  garden. 

I  On    the   East  side  of  the  river  is  Cold  Spring, 

I  behind  it  is  the  West  Point  Foundry,  the  best 
in  the  United  States, 

WEST  POINT. 

^  The  Military  Academy  of  the  United  States,  lo- 

cated at  West  Point,  is  designed  for  the  instruction 
of  young  men  destined  for  the  army ;  and  se- 
condarily for  maintaining  the  military  science  of 

I  the  country.  It  was  established,  in  1802,  by  Gen. 
Williams,  and  extends  only  to  the  instruction  of 
Cadets.  The  number  of  pupils  is  confined  to  250; 
the  sons  of  revolutionary  officers  are  allowed  the 
first  claim,  and  those  children  of  officers  of  the 
last  war  whose  fathers  are  dead,  the  nexi.    There 

I  are  about  30  professors,  instructors  and  assistants. 

Some  of  the  Cadets  allord  assistance  in  instruct- 
ing, for  which  they  receive  additional  pay.  The  law 
prohibits  admission  under  fourteen  years  of  age. 

The  level  on  which  the  buildings  of  the  institu- 
tion are  erected,  is  188  feet  above  the  river, 
though  it  has  the  appearance  of  having  once 
formed  a  part  of  its  bed.  The  annual  expense 
institution  to  the  United  States  is  ^115,000. 


i 


tf 


I 


1^- 


24 


NEW-YORK    TO    ALBANY 


The  sum  paid  for  the  education  of  a  Cadet  is 
about  $330  per  annum.  The  library  consists  of 
a  large  and  valuable  collection  of  books,  on  the 
various  branches  of  military  science. 

The  buildings  belonging  to  the  institution  are 
five  ;  all  large,  and  built  of  stone.  There  are,  be- 
sides, six  brick  buildings  for  the  officers  and  pro- 
fessors; near  the  water,  some  old  military  store- 
houses, which  contain  arms,  &:c,  used  in  the  revo- 
lution. The  barracks  were  lately  burnt.  There 
is  an  elegant  hoieL 

The  course  of  study  is  completed  in  four  years, 
each  being  devoted  to  a  class;  and  includes  the 
French  language,  drawing,  natural  and  experi- 
mental philosophy,  chemistry  and  mineralogy, 
geography,  history,  ethics,and  national  law,  ma- 
thematics in  the  highest  branches,  and  lastly,  ar- 
tillery and  engineering. 

Study  concludes  ea^ih  day  at  4  P.  M.  and  is 
succeeded  by  the  parade,  which  lasts  till  sunset. 

Col.  Beverly  Robinson's  mansion  on  the  east 
side  of  the  river,  was  head-quarters  at  different 
periods  in  the  Revolution. 

Tn  September,  1780,  while  the  British  held  pos- 
session of  Hudson  river  up  to  the  Highlands,  and 
General  Arnold  was  in  command  here,  a  corres- 
pondence was  carried  on  by  him  with  the  British 
officers,  on  the  subject  of  surrendering  his  post 
into  their  hands. 

Andre  was  sent  under  cover  of  the  night  from 
the  sloop  of  war  Vulture,  which  was  then  lying 
in  Haverstraw  Bay,  to  a  place  which  had  been 
appointed  for  the  conference.  A  man  by  the  name 
of  Smith  had  been  sent  on  board  by  Arnold,  un^ 
der  the  pretence  of  negotiating  about  an  honora- 


feXEClJTION    OF     ANDRt:. 


25 


I  Cadet  is 
consists  of 
ks,  on  the 

itiition  are 
re  are,  be- 
i  and  pro- 
tary  store- 
1  the  revo- 
t.     There 

four  years, 
dudes  the 
id  experi- 
ineralogy, 
1  law,  ma- 
lastly,  ar- 

M.  and  is 

1  sunset, 
the  east 
differ  e  I?  t 

held  pos- 
ands,  and 
a  corres- 
le  British 
his  post 

ght  from 
len  lying 

ad  been 
the  name 
nold,  un-» 

honora* 


ble  treaty  witli  Gnat  Britain,  and  he  accompanied 
Andre  to  the  foot  of  a  mountain  called  the  Lon^J 
Clove,  on  the  west  side  of  the  river.  Here  they 
found  Gen.  Arnold  in  a  dark  grove  of  evergreen 
trees,  according  to  appointment. 

Daylight  put  it  out  ofthc  power  of  Major  Andre 
to  pass  in  safety  the  posts  at  Verplanck's  and  Sto- 
ny Points.     lie  was  therefore  obliged  to  disguise. 

General  Arnold  had  furnished  him  with  a  pa?s 
under  the  name  of  John  Anderson  ;  and  on  the 
following  evening  he  set  out  by  land,  accompanied 
by  Smith  as  a  guide.  They  rode  that  night  to 
McKoy's,  after  going  eiirht  or  nine  miles:  and  the 
next  he  spent  at  Pine's  Bridge,  over  Croton  River. 
Here  he  parted  with  Smith,  and  proceeded  alone 
six  miles,  wiien  as  he  had  passed  the  American 
lines,  and  was  approaching  those  of  the  British, 
he  was  discovered  by  three  men,  who  were  con- 
cealed  from  him  behind  a  bank;  and  one  of  them 
suddenly  stepping  from  under  a  tree  by  the  road 
side,  seized  his  horse  by  the  bridle.  They  found 
in  his  boots  a  description  of  tlie  works  at  West 
Point,  with  returns  of  all  the  forces  of  the  garri* 
son,  in  the  handwriting  of  Arnold. 

This  happened  on  the  23d  of  September.  A 
messenger  was  immediately  sent  to  Gen,  Wash- 
ington ;  and  at  Andre's  request,  Lieut.  Col.  Jamie- 
son  sent  to  Arnold  to  inform  him  that  Anderson 
was  taken.  The  latter  messenger  arrived  first ; 
and  Arnold  as  soon  as  he  learned  the  truth,  rush- 
ed down  a  very  steep  bank,  sprang  into  his  boat, 
and  ordered  the  rowers  to  take  him  on  board  the 
Vulture. 

Andre  was  hung  at  the  town  of  Tappan,  where 

2* 


)  il 


■j 


S 


\ 


26 


NEW-YORK    TO     ALBANY. 


his  body  was  afterwards  interred.  In  1627,  the 
corporation  of  New-York  erected  a  monument 
over  the  grave  of  Paulding,  one  of  his  captors. 

On  leaving  West  Point,  the  distant  summit  of 
Catskill  mountains  is  distinguishable.  Putnam's 
Rock  was  rolled  from  the  top  of  Butter  Hill,  June 
1778,  by  a  party  of  soldiers  directed  by  Gen  Put- 
nam.    On  the  east  side  is  another  Anthony^s  Nose, 

Newhurgh. —  This  is  a  town  of  considerable  size, 
six  miles  beyond  the  Highlands,  with  some  hand- 
some buildings.  Here  begins  the  Stage  Road 
leading  from  the  river  to  Ithaca,  at  the  head  of 
Cayuga  Lake,  and  communicating,  by  a  steamboat, 
with  the  great  western  turnpike  at  Cayuga  Bridge. 

Newhurgh  is  advantageously  situated  for  the 
eye  of  one  approaching  it,  as  it  stands  on  the  de- 
clivity of  a  hill  which  slopes  handsomely  to  the 
shore.  Half  a  mile  south  of  the  village  is  seen 
the  old  stone  house  in  which  Gen.  Washington 
had  his  head-quarters  when  the  celebrated  "New- 
burgh  Letters"  came  out. 

A  coach  runs  daily  to  Goshen,  near  which  are 
the  Chemung  Springs. 

Fishkill  Mountain* — The  summits  called  North 
and  South  Beacons,  which  rise  opposite  New- 
burgh,  at  a  distance  of  four  miles,  command  a  fine 
view  over  the  surrounding  country  and  the  river, 
which  appears,  interrupted  by  the  Highlands,  like 
a  number  of  lakes.  Fort  Putnam  is  in  sight,  and 
it  is  said  that  land  may  be  seen  in  seven  different 
states.  Many  villages,  as  well  as  the  river,  are  in- 
cluded in  the  view. 

Matteawan  Factory,  Fishkill. — It  stands  near 
the  river  aad   directly  opposite  Newhurgh.    It 


KINGSTON. 


27 


1627,  the 
nonuinent 
iplors. 
lummit  of 
Putnam's 
Hill,  June 

Gen  Put- 
ty's Nose, 
rable  size, 
3me  hand- 
age  Road 
3  head  of 
ileamboat, 
ga  Bridge. 
?d  for  the 
on  the  de- 
ely  to  the 
re  is  seen 
ashington 

d  "  New- 

^hich  are 

[led  North 
dte  New- 
ind  a  fine 

Ithe  river, 

mds,  like 

iight,  and 

different 

!r,  are  in- 

bds   near 
irgh.     It 


gives  employment  to  a])out  300  persons,  with  50 
power  looms,  6lc.  1,000  or  l,r)00  yards  of  cot- 
ton are  manufactured  on  an  averaiJ^e  from  the 
wool  every  day,  principally  stripes  and  ginghams. 
There  is  an  extensive  machine  shop  connected 
with  it. 

PoughkcepsiCi  the  Capital  rf  Duchess  county,  is 
on  the  East  side  of  the  Hudson,  75  nniles  South 
of  Albany,  7t  North  of  New  York.  There  is  a 
small  village  situated  on  the  irregular  and  pictur- 
esque ground  near  the  landing,  but  the  principal 
village  is  1  mile  distant,  containing  a  Bank,  Aca- 
demy &c.  Much  mar'ufacturing  is  done  on  the 
streams  in  this  township  ;  and  great  quantities  of 
Barnegat  lime,  burnt  hereabouts,  are  sent  to  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  country. 

Hyde  Park,  6  miles  N.  of  Poughkocpsie,  con- 
tains the  summer  residence  of  Dr.  Hosack,  in  view 
from  the  landing,  and  the  grounds  and  garden  at- 
tached are  laid  out  in  a  princely  style,  and  with 
some  others  in  the  village,  are  worthy  of  a  visit 
from  the  passing  traveller. 

Kingston^  on  the  West  side,  100  miles  North  of 
New  York,  has  a  fine  tract  of  meadow  land  at  the 
village,  3  miles  from  the  river.  The  Courthouse 
cost  $40,000,  Limestone  abounds.  The  village 
was  burnt  by  the  British  in  1777.  Esopus  creek 
supplies  mill  seats. 

For  several  miles  beyond,  the  shores  are  of  a 
regular  elevation,  but  are  cut  through  by  several 
streams,  which  afford  a  little  variety,  as  wharves 
are  usually  constructed  at  their  mouths,  where 
sloops  receive  their  cargoes  of  timber  or  produce 
for  New  York. 


!'3 

'n 


t;f 


g8 


NEW-YORK    TO    ALBANY. 


The  Delaware  and  Ilndson  Canal,  wliicli  was 
commenced  in  July  1825,  and  completed,  with  the 
works  in  connexion  with  it,  near  the  close  of  1 829, 
extends  from  Rondout  creek,  about  four  ndles 
from  the  junction  of  the  Waalkill  with  tlic  Hud- 
son, to  the  coal  mines  on  the  Lackawana  creek,  in 
Pennsylvania.  The  chief  part  of  it,  05  miles,  pass- 
es throut^h  a  valley,  twj  or  three  miles  wide,  in  a 
south-  westerly  direction,  to  the  Delaware. 

The  country  at  the  opening  of  the  canal  is  re- 
markably irregular  and  wild.  On  rising  from  the 
level  of  the  river  by  locks  into  the  basin,  an  as- 
semblage of  rocks,  steep  hills,  and  forest  trees  is 
suddenly  presented  to  the  view,  with  a  few  build- 
ings; and  after  passing  through  a  deep  cut,  where 
the  work  is  very  neat,  and  under  a  high  bridge, 
the  boat  enters  the  river,  whose  smooth  and  gras- 
sy sfjore  oflers  a  very  convenient  towing  path. 

The  canal  is  36  feet  in  breadth  at  the  surface, 
and  four  feet  deep.  The  locks  are  nine  feet  wide, 
72  in  length  between  the  gates,  from  eight  to  ele- 
ven feet  lift,  and  built  of  stone. 

The  country  seems  as  if  it  might  have  aflbrded 
a  channel  to  the  Delaware,  before  its  waters  forced 
for  themselves  a  new  passage  through  the  Blue 
Ridge,  80  feet  above  the  present  level  of  that  river. 

At  the  High  Falls  on  the  Rondout  River,  the 
canal  passes  over  a  hewn  stone  aqueduct  of  two 
arches,  just  above  which  the  cascade  is  seen,  50 
feet  high.  The  falls  and  the  aqueduct  both  pre- 
sent a  fine  and  striking. appearance ;  the  effect  of 
which  is  still  further  increased  by  the  passage  of 
the  Five  Locks,  by  which  the  ascent  is  surmounted. 

The  Summit  Level  is  about  midway  between 
the  Hudson  and  Delaware,  at  Wiirtzborough. 


HONESDALE. 


vhicli  wns 
I,  with  the 

our  nulc3 
t  the  Ilud- 
[i  creek,  in 
liles,  pass- 
wide,  in  a 

ire. 

janal  is  re- 
g  from  the 
sin,    an  as- 
est  trees  is 
few  bnild- 
cut,  where 
igh  bridge, 
h  and  gras- 
ng  path, 
le   surface, 
1  feet  wide, 
ght  to  ele- 

re  aflbrded 
iters  forced 

the   Blue 

that  river. 

[liver,    the 

luct  of  two 

is  seen,  50 

both  pre- 
le  effect  of 

mssage   of 

|r  mounted. 

between 

>ugh. 


The  Neversink  River  is  crossed  on  an  aqueduct, 
and  the  canal  then  pursues  the  course  of  that  river. 

Carpenter*s  Pointy  on  the  Delaware,  is  the 
place  where  the  canal  meets  that  river,  on  the 
line  of  New  Jersey  ;  and  it  then  proceeds  north- 
westerly, along  its  course. 

The  excavations  of  rocks  along  the  Delaware, 
are  in  many  places  on  a  vast  scale;  and  the  varie- 
ty of  natural  scenery  and  artificial  constructions 
presented  to  the  traveller  is  highly  agreeable  and 
picturesque.  A  wall  of  stone  rising  from  the  ri- 
ver's bank,  varying  in  height  from  10  to  20  and 
30  feet,  supports  the  canal  and  tow  path,  in  many 
places  where  the  rocks  have  been  blasted  out  with 
great  expense  to  afford  it  a  passage. 

Butler^ s  FaWs, — At  this  place  the  mountains 
rise  to  the  height  of  several  hundred  feet,  and  a 
rock,  which  appeared  to  present  a  natural  insur- 
mountable obstacle,  has  been  cut  away  with  im- 
mense labor  just  over  the  tumultuous  stream,  so 
that  boats  pass  along  the  smooth  surface  of  the 
canal  without  difficulty  or  exposure,  within  a 
short  distance  of  an  impetuous  current. 

The  Dam  and  Aqueduct  over  the  Delaware. — 
The  canal  crosses  the  Delaware  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Lackawana  River,  on  a  dam  4  feet  in  height, 
after  which  it  enters  the  valley  of  that  stream. 

The  Lackawana  River. — Along  the  bank  of 
this  river  the  canal  passes  for  a  distance  of  about 
20  miles  supported  for  a  great  part  of  the  way  on 
^  wall  of  stone.  The  wildness  of  the  country  on 
either  side  will  offer  continually  striking  objects 
to  the  traveller. 

Honesdale,  stands  at  the  F.^rks  of  the  Dyberry, 
where  the  railway  meets  the  canal  at  its  termination. 


I 


i 
t 


i 


li 


it  r 


I 


30 


NEW-YORK  TO  ALBANY. 


The  Railway,  by  which  the  coal  is  brought 
fiom  the  mines,  is  provided  with  steam  engines  to 
move  the  carts.     (We  return  to  Hudson  river.) 

Saugerties.—  WeYG  is  a  large  manufacturing 
place  established  by  Henry  Barclay,  Esq.  of  New- 
York.  By  a  large  stone  dam  on  Esopus  creek  he 
obtains  a  supply  of  water  at  a  fall  of  nearly  50 
feet,  which  may  be  twice  used  on  great  wheels. 
The  canal  conducts  it  about  two  hundred  yards 
through  rocks  65  feel  high.  Here  is  a  mill  for 
paper,  and  an  iron  rolling  and  puddling  mill  169 
feet  long,  rolls  200  tons  a  week,  and  can  do  dou*- 
ble  that  work. 

THE  CATSKILL  MOUNTAINS. 

As  the  traveller  proceeds  he  observes  the  dis- 
tant ridge  of  the  Catskill  mountains  more  distinct- 
ly, which  limit  the  view  north  and  westerly  for 
many  miles,  and  form  a  grand  feature  in  the  scene. 
They  nowhere  approach  nearer  to  the  river  than 
8  miles,  and  in  some  places  retire  15  and  even  20. 

An  excursion  to  the  summit  of  these  mountains 
is  performed  by  great  numbers  of  travellers ;  and 
indeed  has  become  so  favorite  an  enterprise  that  it 
may  very  properly  be  ranged  among  the  principal 
objects  in  the  great  tour  which  we  are  just  com- 
mencing. The  visit  may  be  accomplished  in  one 
day,  though  two  or  three  may  be  agreeably  spent 
in  examining,  at  leisure,  the  grand  and  beautiful 
scenery  of  that  romantic  neighborhood.  There 
is  a  large  and  commodious  house  of  entertainment 
erected  at  the  Pine  Orchard,  one  of  the  peaks  of 
the  mountain,  about  3000  feet  above  the  river.  It 
is  visible  from  the  steamboat ;  and  the  ascent  to  it 
is  performed  witho\vt  fatigue,  in  private  carriages 


CATSKILL    MOUNTAINS. 


SI 


or  a  stage  coach,  which  goes  and  returns  regular- 
ly twice  a  day. 

The  place  to  land  for  this  excursion  is  Catskill, 
where  begins  a  turnpike  road  to  Ithaca,  Taking 
the  stage  coach  here,  you  proceed  toAvards  the 
Pine  Orchard,  passing  a  good  inn  at  the  distance 
of  7  miles,  (640  feet  above  the  river,)  and  then  be- 
ginning the  ascent,  which  is  surmounted  by  a 
winding  road  that  affords  much  wild  scenery  and 
many  a  glimpse  at  the  surrounding  country.* 
Five  miles  of  such  travelling  brings  the  visiter  to 

The  Pine  Orchard.  This  is  a  small  plain,  2214 
feet  above  the  river,  scattered  with  forest  trees, 
and  furnished  with  an  elegant  hotel.  The  Hudson 
is  seen  windinop  from  afar  throug^h  its  verdant  val- 
ley,  its  margin  adorned  with  villages,  and  its  sur- 
face enlivened  with  vessels  of  various  descrip- 
tions. Immediately  below  is  seen  a  rc(jion  of  un- 
cultivated  mountains,  which  is  strikingly  contrast- 
ed with  the  charming  aspect  of  fertility  that 
reigns  beyond,  and  presents  all  the  variety  of  hill 
and  vale,  town,  hamlet,  and  cottage. 

The  Round  Top  is  a  su  nmit  of  greater  eleva- 
tion from  which  the  view  is  more  extensive.  It 
is  3,718  feet  above  the  ocean. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  river  is  seen  part  of 
the  counties  of  Albany,  Greene,  Ulster,  and 
Orange  ;  and  on  the  east,  part  of  Putnam  County, 
and  all  of  Dutchess,   Columbia,   and  Rensselaer. 

*  Tho  forests  of  this  mountainous  rcarion  furnisti  immense  quantities  of 
the  bark  used  in  tanning  leatlicr;  and  not  le-s  than  23  tanneries  are  in 
opt  ration  in  this  count3%  wiiich  supply  about  four-fifths  of  the  leather  an- 
nually inspected  in  tho  city  of  New-Vork.  (Kdv  .irds'  large  tannery  is  in 
the  town  of  Hunter.)  Watei  power  is  advantageously  introduced  to  aid 
in  some  parts  of  tho  process ;  and  the  custom  bus  been  adopted  of  soak- 
ing the  bark  in  heated  water.  More  than  155,000  hides  were  taimcd  in 
Green  County  in  1826,  valued  at  more  than  $400,000. 


fs'JI 


:^ 


I 


li 


iH. 


32 


NEW-YORK   TO   ALBANY. 


The  distant  highlands  in  the  east  belong  partly  ta 
Taughkannuc  and  Saddle  Mountains,  in  Massa- 
chusetts, and  perhaps  partly  to  the  Green  Moun- 
tains in  Vermont.  Lower  down  is  discovered  a 
range  of  hills  in  the  western  counties  of  Connec- 
ticut. The  eye  embraces  a  tract  of  country  about 
100  miles  in  length,  and  50  in  breadth;  and  a 
large  part  of  it  is  supposed,  by  geologists,  to  have 
formed  the  bed  of  a  great  lake  in  some  long  past 
age,  when  the  Hudson  was  thrown  back  by  the 
barrier  presented  at  the  Highlands,  before  the  pre- 
sent chasm  had  been  cut  for  its  passage. 

Nearly  opposite  is  seen  the  old  Livingston  Ma- 
nor, which  is  one  of  the  few  greet  aristocratical 
estates  existing  in  this  part  of  the  country.  It 
originally  contained  Clermont  (14,000  acres,)  the 
Manor  (146,000),  and  East  Camp  or  Palatine 
(0000).  This  last  was  settled  by  exiles  from  the 
Palatinate  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne. 

The  Cascades.  There  is  a  singular  and  highly 
romantic  scene  which  has  been  intentionally  re- 
served for  the  last.  A  path  leads  through  the 
woods  to  the  cascades,  passing  near  two  small 
lakes,  from  which  the  supply  of  water  is  derived. 
Carriages  may  generally  be  procured  to  take  visi- 
ters to  the  spot. 

The  stream  flows  through  the  woods  to  where 
the  level  terminates,  very  abruptly,  at  a  high  and 
shelving  precipice,  descending  into  a  tremendous 
gorge  between  ridges  of  gloomy  mountains.  The 
first  fall  is  175  feet,  and  the  second  80:  both  per- 
pendicular, without  a  single  protruding  rock  to 
break  the  snow-white  sheet. 

A  building  is  erected,  where  refreshments  may 
be  obtained  ;  and  on  the  right  is  a  steep  path  by 


! 


CITY    OF   HUDSON. 


33 


r  partly  ta 
in  Massa- 
!en  Moun- 
covered  a 
f  Connec- 
ntry  about 
th ;  and  a 
ts,  to  have 
I  long  past 
ck  by  the 
re  the  pre- 

igston  Ma- 
istocratical 
mntry.  It 
acres,)  the 
p  Palatine 
s  from  the 

ind  highly 
lonally  re- 

ough  the 
two  small 
lis  derived. 

take  visi- 

to  where 

high  and 

lemendous 

lins.  The 

both  per- 

rock   to 

|ents  may 
path  by 


which  even  ladies  may  descend  in   safety  to  the 

i  foot  of  the  falls. 

ji  There  is  a  cavern  under  the  first  cataract,  where 

I         the  shelving  rock  shelters  the  stranger  from  the 

spray,  and  throws  a  dark  shade  around  hinn,  which 

sets  off,  in  the  most  beautiful  manner,    tl.:e   wild 

scenery  below.     The   cavern   is   formed    by  the 

wearing  away  of  the  sand-stone  rocks,   while  the 

stratum  of  graywacke  remains  unimpaired. 

At  a  little  distance  the  stream  takes  it  second 
leap  into  a  dark  abyss  ;  and  from  a  rock  at  that 
place,  it  is  seen  rushing  tumultuously  along  over  a 
steep  and  rocky  channel,  winding  between  the  ba- 
ses of  the  mountains  until  it  gradually  sweeps  away 
towards  the  south,  and  disappears  among  the  rude 
scenery  that  surrounds  it. 

The  traveller  will  return  to  Catskill  to  take  the 
steamboat. 

THE  CITY  OF  HUDSON,  5 J  miles.  This  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  towns  on 
the  river,  and  occupies  a  commanding  eminence 
on  the  eastern  bank,  with  several  ranges  of  large 
stores  built  near  the  water's  level.  On  the  brow 
of  the  ascent  from  the  water  is  a  favorite  prome- 
nade, from  which  a  charming  view  is  enjoyed  of 
the  river  and  the  opposite  Catskill  mountains. 
The  western  shore  is  variegated  and  beautiful, 
and  contains  the  village  of  Athens. 

Hudson  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  capital  of  Co- 
lumbia county.  Several  vessels  are  employed  in 
whaling.  Ships  of  the  largest  size  come  up  the 
river  to  this  town  without  difficulty.  28  miles 
south  of  Albany, 

It  may  be  recommended  to  the  traveller  who 

3 


n\ 


't 


I 


'Il 


34 


CITY    OF   ALBANY. 


'X 


wishes  to  visit  New-Lebanon  Springs,  to  land 
here  and  take  the  stage  coaches. 

From  Jlndson   to  New-Lebanon  is  28  miles. 

The  road  passes  throngh  a  varied,  ;vell  cultiva- 
ted, and  agreeable  tract  of  country.  Stage  coach- 
es go  daily  to  Lenox,  Stockbridge,  Pittstield,  &c. 
At  Egreniont,  they  exchange  passengers  with  the 
coaches  for  Sheffield,  Hartford,  and  New-Haven. 

At  Hudson  carriages  may  be  engaged  for  Cats- 
kill  mountains. 

The  Columbia  Spring  is  a  place  of  some  re- 
sort, and  the  water  is  considered  effectual  in  ca- 
ses of  scrofula. 

There  are  extensive  manufactories  of  cotton, 
calico,  &c.  &c.  in  this  vicinity. 

Clavcrack  is  a  pleasant  village  a  few  miles  from 
Hudson. 

Tiie  Great  Falls  is  a  romantic  cascade,  of  150 
feet,  about  9  miles  from  Hudson,  near  the  old  post 
route.  There  is  a  large  manufactory  about  250 
yards  from  the  cascade. 

Various  plans  have  been  proposed,  for  the  im- 
provement of  the  navigation  of  Hudson  river,  and 
some  have  been  attempted.  Nearly  8150,000 
have  been  expended  since  the  year  1797,  about 
$30,000  of  which  was  by  the  state. 

The  Overslaugh,  4  miles  from  Albany,  is  a 
place  wheie  the  channel  is  narrow  and  crooked; 
and  much  labor  has  been  resorted  toin  deepening  it. 

ALBANY,  the  capitol  of  the  State  of  New-York, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson,  144  miles  north 
of  New-York,  165  west  of  Boston,  230  south  of 
Montreal,  contained  26,000  inhabitants  in  1830, 
and  must  have  increased  much  since  that  time.  It 
is  a  city  of  great  wealth  and  prosperity,  and  em- 


1 


CITY    OF   ALBANY. 


35 


to   land 

miles. 
11  cultiva- 
ge  coach- 
field,  &c. 
with  the 
tv-Haven. 
for  Cats- 
some  re- 
ual in  ca- 

of  cotton, 

niles  from 

tie,  of  150 
e  old  post 
about  250 

v  the  im- 

Iriver,  and 

8150,000 

7,  about 

|any,  is  a 
crooked ; 

jpeningit. 

jew- York, 

ties  north 
south  of 
in  1830, 
time.  It 
and  em- 


bellished with  fine  buildings,  public  and  private. 
The  navigation  of  the  Hudson  is  here  connected 
with  tlie  Erie  and  Champlain  canals  and  tlie 
Schenectady  rail-road,  and  numerous  stage  coach 
lines  meet.  The  canal  basin  is  formed  by  a  pier 
4,300  feet  long  ;  and  the  junction  of  the  two  ca- 
nals is  8  miles  north. 

The  Capitol  or  State  House,  90  feet  jby  115, 
and  50  high,  stands  on  the  top  of  the  hill  of  thai, 
name,  at  the  head  of  State  street,  which  is  broad 
and  fine.  It  contains  the  Senate  and  Assembly 
Chambers,  Superior  Court,  &c.  Near  it  are  the 
City  Hall,  of  white  marble,  the  Institute,  and  Aca- 
demy. Thero  are  in  the  ci!y  ?  lanks,  3  Insurance 
ofiices,  an  Athenaeum.  Library  Female  Seminary, 
6cc. 

The  first  settlement  was  made  in  Albany  in 
1612,  it  being  the  second  colony  planted  in  the 
United  States.  A  little  trading  house  or  fort,  was 
erected  by  the  Dutch  on  an  island  half  a  mile  be- 
low the  city,  after  which  fort  Orange  was  built  on 
the  main  land  above  it.  Albany  was  first  called 
Aurania,  afterwaids  Beverwyck,  in  1625  it  was 
named  Fort  Orange,  in  1647  Williamstadt,  and 
Albany  in  1664.  It  was  long  protected  against 
Indian  attacks  by  a  palisade.  The  charter  was 
granted  in  1686,  and  included  7160  acres.  The 
form  is  peculiar:  extending  7  miles  along  the 
river,  although  but  one  mile  in  breadth. 

The  Erie  Canal,  extends  from  Albany  to  Buf- 
falo, 362  miles,  connecting  the  navigation  of  the 
Hudson  with  that  of  Lake  Erie,  the  Ohio  river  and 
the  upper  Lakes  ;  and,  by  collateral  works,  with 
Lake  Ontario  and  many  of  the  small  Lakes  and 
streams  in  the  interior  of  the  State  of  New-York, 


li 


Iti 


36 


NEW-YORK    TO    ALBANY* 


At  the  distance  of  8  miles  from  Albany,  it  is  join- 
ed by  the  Champlain  Canal,  which  exter-ls  to 
Lake  Champlain,  There  are  many  objects  vj(  in- 
terest along  the  route,  both  natural  and  artificial, 
which  will  be  mentioned  in  the  proper  places.  It 
was  the  first  great  work  of  the  kind  completed  in 
the  U.  States,  and  its  great  success  has  done  much 
to  encourage  the  prosecution  of  internal  improve- 
ments in  different  States  of  the  Union. 

The  Canal.  The  whoh^  quantity  of  down 
freight  upon  which  toll  is  charged  by  weight,  that 
was  conveyed  on  the  New-York  Canals  to  Albany 
in  1833,  amounted  to  one  hundred  and  fifty-two 
thousand  nine  hundred  and  thirty-five  tons,  at 
2,000  lbs.  per  ton.  Arrived,  734,133  barrels  of 
flour,  22,922  barrels  of  ashes,  13,489  barrels  of 
provisions,  3  9,908  barrels  of  whiskey,  873  hhds. 
of  whiskey,  17,116  bushels  of  salt,  298,504-  bush- 
els of  wheat,  122,944  bushels  of  coarse  grain,  257, 
252  bushels  of  barley,  2,187  boxes  of  glass.  And 
also  the  following  upon  which  toll  is  not  charged 
by  the  ton :  20,960  cords  wood,  74,350  feet  tim- 
ber, 55,338,547  feet  lumber,  74,350  M  shingles, 
and  68,321  tons  of  merchandise,  furniture,  and 
sundries,  sent  up  the  Canal  from  Albany.  The 
whole  amount  of  toll  received  by  the  Collector  at 
Albany,  is  ^323,689.88,  making  an  increase  of 
^87,053.56  over  the  receipts  of  last  year.  The 
number  of  boats  arrived  and  cleared  was  16,834. 

Route  to  the  Springs  and  the  Falls.  The  com- 
mon route  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs, 
or  that  to  Niagara  will  be  pursued  by  most  trav- 
ellers arriving  at  Albany  from  the  south.  They 
will  be  given  hereafter.  They  both  leave  Albany 
by  the  Railroad  to  Schenectady.     The   route  to 


ALBANY    AND    SCHENECTADY    RAILROAD        37 


IS  join- 
iV^S  to 
s  vjf  in- 
rtificial, 
ces.  It 
ileted  in 
le  much 
mprove- 

f    down 
ght,  that 
I  Albany 
[ifty-two 
tons,   at 
irrels  of 
arrels  of 
73  hhds. 
4  bush- 
in,  257, 
.     And 
charged 
eet  tim- 
hingles, 
ire,  and 
The 
etor  at 
ase   of 
.     The 
16,834. 
e  com- 
irings, 
;t  trav- 
They 
Jbany 
>ute  to 


i 


Lebanon  Springs  26  miles  east  from  Albany,  will 
first  be  given,  with  descriptions  of  places  and  ob- 
jects along  the  old  routes  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga. 

There  is  a  fine  waterfall  about  8  miles  from 
Albany,  in  a  south-west  direction,  on  a  branch  of 
Nordman's  creek;  and  the  spot  is  of  quite  a  ro- 
mantic character. 

There  are  several  pleasant  excursions  which 
may  be  made  in  different  directions  from  Albany  : 
as  to  Lebanon  Springs,  Troy,  Cohoes  Falls  on 
the  Mohawk,  (on  the  way  whither  will  be  seen 
some  of  the  locks  on  the  Erie  Canal,)  Waterford, 
Niskayuna,  &c.  These  places  will  be  described 
hereafter. — (See  Lidex,)  Most  travellers  how- 
ever will  take  the 

Albany  and  Schenectady  Railroad^  on  the  route 
to  the  Springs  or  to  Niagara.  It  is  between  15 
and  16  miles  long,  with  double  tracks,  and  was 
commenced  in  1830.  The  summit  is  a  dead  level 
of  14  miles,  335  feet  above  the  Hudson,  with  a 
stationary  steam  engine  of  12  horse  power  at  each 
end,  to  draw  the  cars  up  inclined  planes  of  1*20 
perpendicular  feet,  and  branches  to  the  Albany 
basin  and  Capital  Square.  In  one  place  excava- 
tions of  47  feet  have  been  made  several  hundred 
yards.*  On  approaching  the  western  end,  the 
road  makes  a  gentle  curve,  which  affords  a  view 
back  upon  the  whole  route,  which  is  strait  to  that 

*  Mr.  Jeitse  BueVs  ,forrrt,  3  miles  from  Albanj^  lies  in  the  route  of  the 
railroad.  It  contains  80  acres,  which,  in  1818,  was  in  the  neglected,  un- 
productive condition  of  the  adjacent  soil.  He  ploughs  much,  and  adopts 
a  judicious  system  of  rotation  of  crops,  some  of  which  are  ploughed  in  for 
manure.  Some  fine  hedges  of  ilifTorent  growths  may  be  seen  on  the  farm. 
He  finds  a  convenient  market  in  the  city.  Tht  Nuntru  emXnSices  about 
a  dozen  acres,  and  contains  a  well  stored  greenhouse  Here  will  be  found 
numerous  fine  native  and  foreign  plants. 

3* 


'    cij 


0' 


€i 


38 


NEW-LEBANON    SPRINGS. 


'   >; 


place.  The  wheels  run  on  an  iron  bar  resting  on 
pine  rails.  When  completed  the  work  will  pro- 
bably cost  about  $40,000  a  mile,  or  f  639,908. 

(For  the  continuation  of  the  route  to  NIAGA- 
RA, see  page  46  and  onward.) 

LEBANON  SPRINGS, 26  miles E.  from  Albany. 

New  Lebanon  Springs  is  one  of  the  most  de- 
lightful resorts  for  strangers.  Among  all  the  pla- 
ces which  might  have  been  selected  for  an  agreea- 
ble residence  in  the  warm  seasons,  and  calculated 
to  please  a  taste  for  the  softer  beauties  of  nature, 
none  perhaps  could  have  been  found  more  eligible 
than  that  we  are  about  to  describe. 

The  village  of  New-Lebanon  is  situated  in  a 
little  valley,  surrounded  by  fine  hills,  or  rather 
spurs  from  two  ranges  of  high  ground,  descending 
with  a  rich,  and  graceful  slope  on  every  side  to 
its  borders.  The  valley  is  almost  a  perfect  level, 
which  contrasts  delightfully  with  the  bold  sides  of 
the  uplands,  some  of  which  are  divested  of  their 
forests,  and  ornamented  with  cultivated  fields  and 
farms,  presenting  a  rich  variety  to  the  eye  wher- 
ever it  turns. 

On  the  side  of  a  hill  about  two  miles  east  from 
the  village,  and  about  half  way  to  the  summit  of 
the  ridge,  issues  out  a  Spring  of  clear  warm  wa- 
ter, which,  although  possessed  of  no  strong  mine- 
ral qualities,  has  given  the  place  its  celebrity  ;  and 
there  stands  a  fine  and  spacious  hotel,  to  which 
the  visiter  will  direct  his  course. 

In  coming  from  the  west,  the  Shaker  Village 
opens  just  beyond  the  last  turnpike  gate. 

The  terms  of  boarding  are  as  follows  :  in  July, 
$S  per  week,  and  at  other  seasons  $7,    Near  the 


NEW-LEBANON    SPRINGS. 


39 


ingon 
11  pro- 
08. 
AGA- 

Ibany. 
st  de- 
le pla- 
igreea- 
lulated 
laturi;, 
ilijrible 

I  in  a 
rather 
ending 
side  to 
t  level, 
ides  of 
f  their 
ds  and 
vvher- 

t  from 
mit  of 

m  wa- 
mine- 

y ;  and 
which 

/^illage 

July, 
ar  the 


Spring  is  a  Bath  Il')use,  containing  warm,  cold, 
and  shower  haths. 

A  little  arbor  will  be  observed  on  the  acclivity 
of  the  hill  above  the  house,  the  path  to  which  lies 
through  the  garden;  and  there  an  uninterrupted 
view  will  be  enjoyed  over  the  surrounding  land- 
scape. A  still  more  extensive  one  may  be  ob- 
tained from  the  summit  of  the  hill,  by  following 
the  road  for  a  considerable  distance  up,  and  then 
turninc^  off  into  the  fields.  On  the  south-east  is 
the  road  to  Northampton;  south-west  the  most 
extensive  scene,  and  the  road  to  the  Shaker  Vil- 
lage; west,  village  of  New  Labanon,  and  road  to 
Albany  and  Troy  ;  north-west,  the  side  of  a  fine 
sloping  hill,  well  cultivated,  and  near  at  hand. 

Distances,  To  Albany,  26  miles ;  Tioy,  27. 
(This  is  the  shortest  way  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga 
Springs,  Lake  George,  <fec.)  To  Hartford,  69  ; 
Hudson,  28. 

The  waters  of  the  Spring  are  abundant,  and 
much  esteemed  for  bathing,  always  keeping  the, 
temperature  of  72  deg.  Fahrenheit,  although  they 
cannot  be  supposed  to  possess  any  mineral  vir- 
tues, as  mav  be  inferred  from  an  examination  of 
the  following  analysis  given  by  Dr.  Meade,  and 
quoted  by  Professor  Silliman.  Two  quarts  of  the 
Lebanon  water  contain. 


Muriate  of  lime,  1  grain. 
Muriate  of  soda,  Ij 
Sulphate  of  lime,  l| 
Carbonate  of  do.    J 


Of  Aeriform  fluids • 

Nitrogen  gas,  13  cubic  in. 
Atmospher  air,  8      do. 


5  grains.  21 

The  Lebanon  water  is  therefore  purer  than  most 


«■ 


,l 


. 


il 


w 


40 


ROADS    FROM    LEBANON    SPRINGS. 


natural  water?,  and  purer  than  those  in  the  vicin- 
ity, which  flow  from  the  very  same  hill.  It  re- 
sembles very  much  the  Buxton  water  in  England, 
though  it  is  not  quite  so  warm ;  and  the  Bristol 
water  is  another  example  of  tepid  water  almost 
entirely  without  mineral  qualities.  Professor  Sil- 
liman  compares  the  scenery  about  Lebanon  Springs 
to  that  of  Bath  in  England.  It  is  however  grad- 
uated more  on  those  principles  of  taste  which 
habit  cherishes  in  an  American,  as  it  abounds  far 
more  in  the  deep  hues  of  the  forest,  and  every 
where  exhibits  the  signs  of  progressive  improve- 
ment. 

Messrs,  Hull  4&.  Bentley's  house  at  the  Springs 
is  very  large,  commodious,  and  elegant;  and  has 
accommodated  300  persons  at  one  time.  It  stands 
close  by  the  spring.  The  old  house  measures  90 
feet,  and  the  new  one  120  feet  long.  They  stand 
in  the  form  of  an  L,  and  a  fine  piazza  runs  along 
them  both,  measuring  220  feet. 

There  is  a  small  fish  pond  in  the  neighborliood. 

Roads  from  Lebanon  Spring's.  From  New- 
Lebanon  Springs  to  Troy,  there  is  a  good  road, 
through  a  variegated  country.  Distances  as  fol- 
lows :   to  Nassau,  16  miles;  thence  to  Troy,  11. 

From  the  Springs  to  Hudson  is  28  miles,  and 
stage  coaches  go  thither.  The  following  is  a 
table  of  distances  on  the  road  to  Boston  : 

Pittsfield,*  7  miles;  Hinsdale,  9;  Peru,t  4; 
Worthington,  6  ;  Chesterfield,  6 ;  Northampton, 
13;  Hadley,  3;  Amherst,  4;  Belchertown,  7; 
Ware,  6;  Western,  8;  Brookfield,   6;  Spencer, 

*  At  Pittsfield  is  a  flourishing^  Boarding  School  for  boys. 

t  A  church  roof  on  a  hill  in  this  town,  is  said  to  divide  the  waters  of  the 
Connecticut  and  Housatonick,  the  rain  running  from  it  ia  opposite  di- 
rections. 


e  vici  li- 
lt re- 

ngland, 
Bristol 
almost 

sor  Sil- 

3prin<rg 

r  grad- 
I  which 
nds  far 
I  every 
nprove- 

Springs 
and  has 
t  stands 
;iires  90 
y  stand 
along 


THE    SHAKER    VILLAGE. 


41 


orhood. 

I    Nevv- 

d  road, 

as  fol- 

11. 
is,  and 
\g  is  a 

•u,t  4; 
Impton, 
|vn,   7; 

>encer, 


srs  of  the 
)site  di- 


7 ;  Leicester,  1 1 ;  Worcester,  6  ;  Framingham, 
10;  Boston,  21  —  134. 

The  Shaker  Village,  a  few  miles  from  the 
Springs,  is  an  object  of  attention  to  most  visiters. 
The  village  itself  presents  a  scene  of  great  neat- 
ness and  beauty,  as  it  is  situated  on  a  beautiful 
level,  and  laid  out  with  the  utmost  regularity. 
The  fields  are  divided  by  right  lines,  fenced  with 
the  most  substantial  materials,  and  cultivated  with 
great  faithfulness  and  skill.  It  is  a  leading  prin- 
ciple with  the  society,  to  allow  of  no  private  pro- 
perty: all  the  possessions  of  those  who  join  them 
are  thrown  into  the  common  stock,  and  submitted 
at  once  to  their  peculiar  system  of  life  and  gov- 
ernment. Celibacy  they  insist  upon  as  indispen- 
sable ;  and  they  profess  to  banish  the  love  of 
wealth  and  ambition,  as  v/ell  as  luxury  in  all  its 
degrees,  from  their  territories. 

The  founder  of  their  sect  was  Ann  Lee,  who 
came  from  England  some  years  ago,  and  estab- 
lished at  Niskay  una,  near  Albany,  a  small  "fam- 
ily," as  they  call  it,  which  has  been  succeeded  by 
various  similar  institutions  in  different,  parts  of  the 
country.  They  regard  that  woman  as  nearly 
equal  to  the  Su*^iour  of  the  world ;  and  themselves 
as  the  only  persons  who  have  received  that  spir- 
itual light  which  is  necessary  to  understand  and 
practise  the  duty  of  man,  that  is,  to  renounce  the 
pleasures  of  the  world,  and,  by  a  life  of  self-denial, 
present  a  living  testimony  against  error  and  wick- 
edness. Their  dress  is  plain,  and  their  worship 
consists  principally  of  a  strange  and  disagreeable 
kind  of  dancing,  whence  they  have  their  namey 
accompanied  with  a  monotonous  song. 


ft-t 

III!       i 


I' 


i> 


h 


. 


42 


UNITED    STATES     AUSKN'AL. 


u 


l! 


lit 


f! 


Some  of  tlirir  most  cxprrimcrd  and  perfect 
mcmhrrs  |)retcrHl  to  "sprak  with  t  )ngiiep/'  heal 
discasrs  with  a  touch  of  the  hand,  and  p^  Torm 
other  miracles  like  the  apostles.  They  consider 
the  marriage  contract  as  dissolved  on  joining  the 
society. 

They  pay  great  attention  to  the  raising  of  gar- 
den seeds  in  most  of  their  villages,  as  well  as  to 
several  of  the  neater  branches  of  manufacture, 
and  derive  from  both  a  very  handsome  income, 
by  making  sales  at  home  and  in  distant  parts  of 
the  country. 

Geology.  The  tract  of  country  between  New- 
Lebanon  and  Albany  is  transition.  Bluish  gray 
transition  limestone,  with  veins  of  calcareous  spar, 
abounds  here  in  strata  on  a  large  scale,  with  a 
considerable  inclination.  It  is  compact,  with  a 
slaty  structure,  Gray  wacke  abounds  at  intervals  ; 
also  transition  slate,  and  a  fine  red  sandstone. 

RENSSELAERWYCK.  A  fine  estate  with 
its  respectable  old  mansion  house,  about  a  mile 
north  of  the  centre  of  the  city,  is  the  seat  of  the 
Honorable  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer,  who  bears 
the  respected  old  Dutch  title  of  Patroon  of  Alba- 
ny. The  estate  is  of  immense  value,  extending 
ten  miles  along  the  river,  and  double  that  distance 
east  and  west;  while  he  possesses  besides,  a  fine 
tract  on  the  Black  River,  and  much  other  prop- 
erty. It  was  formerly  entailed  and  secured  by 
law  to  the  oldest  son  of  the  family;  but  on  the 
death  of  the  present  proprietor  it  is  to  be  divided 
equally  among  all  the  children. 

U,  States'*  Arsenal^  5^  miles,  at  Gibbonsville. 
Being  in  the  vicinity  to  the  Hudson,  the  road,  and 
the  canal,  it  enjoys  every  convenience  for  the  trans- 


port 

dev( 

ply 

for 

disp 

part 

righl 


i<« 


•a 


I  perfect 
jp,"  heal 
p^  Torm 
consider 
ining  the 

g  of  gar- 
reW  as  to 
ufactiire, 
income, 
parts   of 

en  New- 

lish  gray 

!Ous  spar, 

;,  with  a 

t,  with  a 

itervals ; 

tone. 

ate   with 

t  a  mile 

t  of  the 

10  bears 

)f  Alba- 

|xtcn(ling 

distance 

s,  a  fine 

r  prop- 

ured  by 

t  on  the 

divided 

msville. 
»ad,  and 
le  ti  ans- 


UNITED  STATES*  AKSKNAL. 


43 


portation  of  arms  and  ammunition.  One  floor  is 
devoted  to  such  arms  as  are  intended  for  the  sup- 
ply of  the  military  posts,  or  have  been  received 
for  repairing.  The  arms  in  the  other  parts  are 
disposed  with  more  taste.  The  muskets  are 
partly  packed  in  boxes,  and  partly  ranged  up- 
right, with  fixed  bayonets,  in  compact  order ;  and 
present  an  appearance  truly  formidable.  Thou- 
sands of  pistols  are  hung  overhead  ;  those  in  the 
alternate  lines  standing  different  ways;  and  swords 
with  metallic  scabbards  are  disposed  horizontally 
on  wire  hooks.  The  walls  bear  several  devices 
formed  of  swords,  pistols,  6lc.  ingeniously  arran- 
ged. This  is  the  principal  depot  of  arms  and 
equipments  in  the  northern  states. 

The  passages  and  staircases  are  hung  with 
drums,  &;c.  On  the  ground  floor  are  a  few  pieces 
of  artillery,  and  various  sizes  of  shot,  sliells,  &c. 

In  the  yard  are  workshops  for  the  repair  of 
arms,  manufacturing  locks,  &c.  about  30  men 
being  usually  employed,  most  of  whom  are  en- 
listed. 

Tlie  muskets  are  repaired  about  once  in  a  year ; 
which  costs  from  50  cents  to  $\  50  or  ^'2  each. 
The  barrels  are  oxydized,  to  prevent  rusting. 
The  muskets  weigh  a  little  more  than  ten  pounds, 
and  the  parts  are  intended  to  correspond  as  nearly 
as  can  easily  be  done. 

In  the  yard  are  a  number  of  cannon,  &c. 
There  are  4  medium  12  pounders,  one  24,  and 
one  howitzer,  all  taken  at  Saratoga  ;  4  medium  12 
pounders  and  one  howitzer,  taken  at  Yorktown  ; 
two  long  antique  pieces  and  one  8  inch  mortar, 
taken  at  Stony  Point ;  two  old  French  4  pounders 
and  14  guns,  sent  by  king  Louis  to  the  Contineu- 


iM 


f 


>-i 


44 


ROUTE    TO    NIAGARA. 


u 


I 


tal  Congress  in  the  Revolution.  These  are  all 
of  brass,  iuid  most  of  them  highly  ornamented. 
The  French  guns  presented  by  the  king  bear  each 
an  individual  name  forvvard,  and  the  inscription 
"  Ultima  ratio  reguTYi*^ — (the  last  argument  of 
kings.) 

There  are  also  three  or  four  howitzers  cast  in 
New- York  and  Philadelphia  in  the  Revolution, 
some  of  the  oldest  specimens  of  such  manufacture 
in  this  cour/ry.  They  bear  the  letters  U.  C.  for 
United  Colonies, 

TROY,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is  a 
very  handsome  town,  with  fine  hills  in  the  rear, 
the  most  prominent  of  which  is  Mount  Ida.  The 
Dana  and  Basin  at  Troy  form  a  great  and  expen- 
sive work,  ^nd  are  of  marked  benefit  to  tlie  place, 
by  diverting  a  part  of  the  business  of  the  canal. 
Troy  ha.i  a  court  house,  jail,  market,  7  churches, 
3  banks,  and  the  large  female  seminary  of  Mrs. 
"Willard.  The  road  to  New-Lebanon  is  a  very 
good  and  very  pleasant  one.  The  distance  is  27 
miles.  You  pass  Sandy  Lake  10  miles,  Nassau  8, 
village  of  New-Lebanon  12,  and  Lebanon  Springs 
2.  On  Mamit  Ida,  is  a  fine  succession  of  water- 
falls, ou  two  streams,  the  Poestenkill  and  the 
Wynantskill.  One  Ot  them  has  cut  its  way  in 
some  places  to  a  great  depth,  and  takes  three  or 
four  perpendicular  leaps  at  short  intervals  of  only 
a  few  yards.  The  road  to  New-Lebanon  Springs 
leads  near  the  place,  which  is  worthy  of  attention 
for  its  picturesque  character.  There  are  several 
mills  of  different  descriptions,  and  a  cotton  manu- 
factory. The  view  from  the  top  of  XhU  hill,  and 
btill  more  from  the  mountain  behind  it,  is  very 
extensive  and  beautiful. 


*- 
>» 


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ihurches, 

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Nassau  8, 

Springs 

water- 

and   the 

way  in 

hree  or 

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Springs 

ttention 

several 

1  manu- 

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ERIE    CANAL. 


45 


At  the  Van  Rensselaer  ScJiooJ,  the  students  de- 
liver lectures,  by  turns,  on  the  branches  of  study 
to  which  they  are  devoted;  and  during  the  pleasant 
seasons  of  the  year,  they  aHovv  much  time  to  making 
personal  observations  on  farming,  the  botany  of  the 
neighbourhood,  &/C.  Boarding  costs  about  §1,50 
per  week,  and  no  charge  is  made  for  room  rent, 
use  of  the  library,  apparatus,  &c. 

Any  person  above  18  years  of  age  is  gratuitous- 
ly offered  education,  who  possesses  che  scientific 
acquisitions  to  be  taught  in  any  incorporated 
academy  ;  if  he  has  a  good  moral  chancter,  and 
will  return  to  his  county  and  exert  iMmself  to 
introduce  and  extend  the  experimental  plan  of 
education. 

Miss  Willard's  Academy^  for  young  ladies,  is 
also  a  very  respectable  establishment. 

The  Double  Locks. — The  two  locks  which  occur 
just  below  the  junction  of  the  northern  and  west- 
ern canals,  were  doubled  in  1825,  to  furnish  room 
for  the  boats,  which  pass  here  in  great  numbers. 
They  are  built  of  marble  from  Westchester  county. 
The  junction f  8^  miles  from  Albany,  is  where 
the  Northern  and  VVestern  canals  unite.  To  this 
spot  the  canai  is  of  a  greater  width  than  either  of 
the  branches.  The  Northern  canal  runs  to  White- 
hall, Lake  Champlain,  with  locks,  a  distance  of  62^ 
miles,  passing  through  Waterford,  Halfmoon, 
Stillwater,  near  Bemis's  Heights,  (14  miles  from 
Waterford,)  with  the  battle  grounds  of  General 
Burgoyne,  Fort  Hardy,  where  he  surrendered, 
Fort  Miller,  Fort  Edward,  and  Fort  Anne. 

THE  ERIE  OR  WESTERN  CANAL,  reaches 
to  Buffalo,  on  Lake  Erie,  a  distance  of  362  miles. 


yi 


m 


if 

I' 


I 


46 


ROUTE    TO    NIAGARA, 


It  lias  83  locks,  which  raise  and  lower  the  water 
688  feet  in  all.  The  principal  points  where  the 
most  labour  and  expense  were  required,  are  the 
following : 

The  Basin  at  Albany, — the  Dam  and  Basin  at 
Troy, — the  Locks  at  the  Cohoes  Falls, — the  two 
Aqusducts  on  which  the  canal  twice  crosses  the 
Mohawk, — the  long  Stone  Wall  and  Locks  at  Lit- 
tle Falls,  together  with  the  beautiful  Aqueduct  for 
the  Feeder  at  that  place, — the  long  stretch  through 
the  Onondaga  Swamp, — the  great  Embaiikinent  at 
Victor,  where  for  two  miles  the  boats  pass  72  feet 
above  the  level, — the  Aqueduct  over  the  Genesee 
at  Rochester, — the  five  double  combined  I^ocks  at 
Lockport,  and  the  Long  Pier  at  Black  Rock. 

The  principal  natural  objects  near  it  are  ; 

The  Cohoes  Falls,— Litt'le  Falls,— the  Falls  of 
Trenton,  l4  miles  north-east  of  Utica, — the  Lakes 
of  Oneida,  Salina,  Onondaga,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  and 
Canandaigua — the  three  Falls  of  the  Genesee 
River,  at  Rochester  and  Carthage;  Niagara, — and 
the  Lakes  of  Ontario  and  Erie. 

The  amount  of  toll  received  on  the  Erie,  and 
Champlain  canals,   in  1832,   was  ^^1,19(),000. 

At  the  9  Locks,  the  road  to  Waterford  leaves 
the  Erie  canal  on  the  west,  and  the  Champlain 
canal  on  the  east ;  and  crosses  the  Mohawk  River 
below  the  Cohoes  Falls. 

COHOES  FALLS.  This  is  the  great  Cataract 
of  the  Mohawk  River.  The  height  of  the  fall  is 
62  feet.  The  banks  are  mere  walls  of  stratified 
rock,  rough,  and  sometimes  hollowed  out  beneath, 
rising  about  l40  feet  above  ths  river  for  a  great 
distance  below  the  falls.     A  bridge,    on  Towne's- 


SCHENECTADY    TO    TJTICA 


47 


plan,  was  built  across  the  river  in  1828,  near  the 
dam.  At  (nsi  view  the  CHtaract  appears  almost  as 
regular  as  a  mill-dam  ;  bu*^,  on  a  nearer  an[)roach, 
the  led^e  of  rocks  over  which  the  water  is  precip- 
itated is  found  extremely  irregular  and  broken. 
Many  fine  fish  are  caught  at  the  bottom. 

The  Lower  Aqueduct^  2i  miles  above  the  falls. 
On  account  of  the  difiiculty  of  cutting  the  canal 
along  this  side  of  the  river,  above  this  place,  it 
was  found  easier  to  carry  it  over,  as  there  is  a 
natural  channel  on  the  other  side.  This  aqueduct 
is  1188  feet  long,  and  rests  on  26  stone  piers  and 
abutments. 

Wat  Hoix  Gap,  2\  miles — the  channel  abo\e 
mentioned. 

Upper  Aqueduct,  9^  miles— 748  ft.  long,  and  rests 
on  16  piers.  The  scene  at  Alexander's  Bridge  is 
line. 

Schenectady,  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in 
the  state,  having  been  occupied  as  a  little  frontier 
fortress  beiore  the  year  1665,  when  it  was  attack- 
ed by  a  party  of  French  and  Indians  from  Canada, 
and  burnt,  and  many  of  the  inhabitants  murdered. 
This  party  was  designed  against  the  Five  Nations; 
but  being  much  worn  down  with  travelling  in  the 
winter  they  fell  on  Schenectady. 

Union  College  is  conspicuously  situated  a  little 
out  of  town.  Two  large  stone  buildings  200  feet 
long  have  been  erecte  1  several  years,  but  the  orig- 
inal plan,  which  was  quite  extensive,  has  never 
been  completed. 

FROM  SCHENECTADY  TO  UTICA. 

By  the  Canal  79^   miles»     By  the  road  81  miles. 

Rotterdam  Flats 3  miles. 


H1 


48 


ROUTK    TO      NIAGAKA. 


Flint  Hill 8 

Fort  Hunter 10 

Norlh  of  the  canal,  and  on  the  bank  of  the 
Mohawk,  is  the  place  where  this  little  fort  former- 
ly stood. 

Near  this  place  is  the  site  of  an  old  fort  of  the 
Mohawk  Indians;  and  there  is  still  lo  be  seen  a 
chapel  bnilt  by  Queen  Anne,  near  the  beginning 
of  the  last  century,  for  the  use  of  ihat  nation, 
called  Queen  Anne^s  Chapel 

SCHOHARIE  CREEK.  1  mile.  Here  is  a 
collection  of  several  very  interesting  works, 
formed  for  the  convenient  passage  of  boats  across 
a  broad  and  rapid  stream.  A  guard  lock  pre- 
serves the  water  in  the  canal  from  rising  or  fall- 
ing, and  the  current  of  the  creek  is  set  back  by  a 
dam  a  little  below,  nearly  to  the  same  level. 
The  dam  is  constructed  in  a  manner  best  calcula- 
ted to  resist  the  pressure  of  the  current  in  floods, 
and  when  increased  by  the  ice.  It  has  a  broad 
foundation  and  a  narrow  top;  and  it  is  built  so  as 
to  present  an  angle  against  the  middle  of  the  cur- 
rent. A  wheel  turned  by  a  horse  moves  a  rope, 
which  is  stretched  double  across,  and  is  carried 
round  a  wheel  on  the  other  side ;  a  line  attached 
to  this  draws  the  boats,  they  being  kept  in  their 
course  by  another  line,  which  slides  upon  a  long 
rope  stretched  across  the  creek  on  the  other  side 
of  the  boats. 

CAUGHNAWAGA,  4^  miles.  The  village  of 
Johnstown  is  situated  at  the  distance  of  four  miles 
north  of  the  Canal.* 

*Tribe*s  f/i7/ is  a  commanding  olovation  within  the  limits  of  Johns- 
towu.    It  WW  formerly  the  place  of  the  council  fire  of  the  Mohaw^i  li\- 


} 


BATTLE    OF    JOHNSTOWN. 


49 


Anthoni/s  Nose,  7J  miles.  This  is  a  high  and 
prominent  hill,  rising  abrubtly  on  the  southern 
bunk  of  the  river.  On  the  top  is  a  remarkable 
cavern,  which  extends  downwards  to  a  great 
depth,  with  several  apartments  of  considerable 
size.  This  hill  is  represented  in  one  of  the  plates; 
but  the  view  is  taken  from  a  spot  west  of  it. 

There  is  every  appearance  of  a  rent  in  the  hills 
having  been  made  by  a  strong  current  of  water; 
and  geologists  consider  them  as  having  originally 
been  a  barrier  to  a  great  lake  which  was  thus  gra- 
dually drained. 


•ope, 
rried 
chad 
their 
long 
side 


Johns- 
iwli  Ra- 


dians; and  thfi  Germans  havo  corrupted  its  name  to  "  Tripe's  Hill,"  by 
which  it  is  commonly  known. 

At  Julinstown,  on  the  road,  are  two  fine  houses,  built  of  stone,  standing 
nt  the  disttnce  of  a  mile  from  cucli  other.  They  were  erected  by  Sir 
William  Johnson  and  his  family,  as  this  tract  of  country  was  the  place 
of  h'S  residence,  and  for:iied  a  part  of  liis  vast  and  valual)le  estate.  There 
was  originally  a  third  house,  siinil  rly  built,  and  at  the  interval  of  another 
mile:  but  this  was  consumed  by  fire.  Col-  Guy  J'hnson  and  Col.  Jolm 
Johnson  (sons  of  Sir  William)  iuh  ibited  two  of  them  until  the  revolution- 
ary war  ;  when,  haviiig  atti.chcd  themselves  to  the  British  interest,  they 
removed  into  Canada,  and  their  estates  were  confiscated.  Colonel  John 
afterwards  came  down  with  a  party  of  Trench  and  Indians,  attacked  tho 
town,  and  made  prisoners  many  of  hi*  old  fricn'ls  and  neighbors. 

Sir  William  Johnson,  who  makes  so  c  Mispiruous  a  figure  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  state  about  th<"  time  of  the  French  war,  was  born  in  Ireland, 
ifi  1714,  and  in  1734  came  to  America,  at  the  solicitaion  of  ids  uncle.  Sir 
Peter  Warren,  who  had  acquired  a  large  estate  here  through  his  wife. 
Sir  Williwm  became  well  ncquiiiited  wiMi  the  Indian  language  and  man- 
ners, and  acquired  a  greater  intlueiice  over  them  than  any  whitt.  "nau 
ever  pf.ssesscd.  He  ose  from  the  station  of  apiivate  soldier  to  the  i  ^nk 
of  a  general,  and  commanded  at  lalve  Gcorc-e  in  J755,  although  as  w'll 
hereafter  be  seen,  the  title  which  he  there  recoivod  wis  really  merited  by 
Gen.  liyman.  July  25,  17."t9,  he  took  Fort  Niagara,  and  in  17G9  went  to 
join  Gen.  Gen.  Amherst  at  ()gwego,  and  assisted  in  the  captire  of  Mon- 
treal He  died  and  was  buried  at  his  seat,  July  7,  1774,  at  the  age  of  GO 
very  rich,  in  consequence  of  the  increasel  value  of  his  extensive  estate 
after  the  French  war.  This  building  was  er- cted  in  1773,  and  standa 
nearly  a  mile  westward  from  the  village.     It  is  called  the  Hull. 

The  Hnltle.  nf  Johnstmou.  On  the  '^."ithof  Oct- ber,  1781,  Col.  Willct; 
with  400  white  men  and  60  of  the  Oneida  tribe,  fodght  fiOO  of  the  Eng- 
lish and  Indians,  on  the  grounds  belongint'  to  the  niansion.  The  loss  of 
the  enemy  was  considerable,  and  they  suifered  go  much  during  thei"*  re- 
treat, that  on  their  arrival  ia  Canada  their  numbers  were  reduced  to  ^Q* 


II: 


rm^ 


BO 


ROUTE    TO    NIAOi^RA. 


Canajoharie  Creek  and  Village,  5  miles. 
Hence  a  stage  coach  two  or  three  times  a  week 
to  Cherry  Valley. 

Fort  Plain,  4  miles.  Here  is  a  small  village, 
belongfng  to  a  town  inhabited  by  the  descendants 
of  Germans.  It  occupies  the  site  of  old  Fort 
Plain.  The  German  language,  much  corrupted, 
is  spoken.  This  little  fort  v/as  surprised  by  Cap- 
tain Butler  in  the  revolutionary  war,  on  his  re- 
turn  from  burning  Cherry  Valley ;  and  here  he 
committed  sim.'lar  attrocities. 

Dam  o'i  /^  ^  River,  and  Feeder  for  the  Canal. 

4  miles. 

The  mouth  of  JLut  Canada  Creek,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  Mohawk.  Near  that  place  Capt. 
Butler  met  a  violent  death,  soon  after  leaving 
Fort  Plain,  on  his  way  back  to  Oneida  Lake  and 
the  Oswego.  He  had  crossed  the  river  some- 
where below,  and  while  lingering  a  little  in  the 
rear  of  his  troops,  was  overtaken  near  the  mouth 
of  the  creek,  by  two  Oneida  Indians,  in  friendship 
with  the  Americans.  Seeing  them  preparing  to 
kill  him,  he  begged  for  his  life;  but  they  only  re- 
plied, ^^  Sherry  Valley P^  and  tomahawked  him  on 
the  spot. 

Mohawk  Castle,  2  miles.  This  was  the  princi- 
pal defensive  position  of  that  famous  nation  of  In- 
dians now  entirely  scattered  and  lost.  As  the 
nearest  to  the  Dutch  settlements,  and  New  Eng- 
land, they  were  long  regarded  with  peculiar  soli- 
citude, and  frequently  with  great  dread.  They 
were  one  of  the  five  nations,  of  which  we  shall 
speak  more  particularly,  at  Oneida,  and  wer^  long 
faithful  and  serviceable  friends  to  the  white  men. 
Here  is  an  old  chapel  erected  for  their  use. 


t 


:f.\ 


is; 


• 


a^-e 


LITTLE     FALLS. 


i 


!*1 


^ 


n 


»|l  LITTLE    FALLS.     The   country   presents  a 

varied  surface,  and  increases  in  interest  on  ap- 
proacliing  Little  Falls,  which  is  the  most  roman- 
tic scene  on  the  course  of  the  Efie  canal.  On 
reaching  a  little  open  meadow  surrounded  by  hills 
where  the  views  open  upon  cultivated  fields  and 
a  few  farm  houses,  the  Mohawk  will  be  found 
flowing  below  on  the  right;  while  on  the  oppo- 
site sldr-.  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  on  the  verge  of 
the  forest  that  covers  them,  the  great  road  is  seen, 
after  having  been  lost  to  the  view  for  a  long  time. 
Here  is  situated  Gen.  Herkimer's  house,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river  at  the  foot  of  Fall  Hill. 
The  road,  the  river,  and  the  canal  meet  again  at 
the  head  of  the  valley;  for  there  is  but  one  pas- 
sage, and  that  so  narrow  as  hardly  to  afford  room 
for  them  all,  through  a  chain  of  limestone  and 
granite  hills,  doubtless  torn  away  in  some  former 
age  by  the  force  of  water.  If  the  chain  were 
again  filled  up  it  would  throw  the  water  back,  and 
form  an  immense  lake,  such  as  is  supposed  to 
have  once  existed  west  of  this  place,  and  which, 
by  overflowing  its  bounds,  in  process  of  time  wore 
away  the  limestone  strata,  and  cut  deep  into  the 
hard  granite,  until  a  mere  river  succeeded,  and 
the  fine  alluvial  plains  above,  called  the  German 
Flats  were  left  dry. 

The  stranger  should,  by  no  means,  neglect  the 
view  of  this  place.  If  he  reaches  it  early  or  late 
in  a  pleasant  day,  particularly  near  the  rising  of 
the  sun,  the  beauty  of  the  scene  will  be  redoubled. 
On  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  the  road  climbs 
along  the  side  of  the  rocks,  where  there  is  barely 
room  for  its  passage.     A  great  part  of  the  way, 


52 


ROUTE     TO    NIAGARA. 


it  is  almost  overhung  by  rocks  and  trees  on  one 
side,  while  on  the  other  is  a  precipice  of  granite, 
cut  down  by  the  force  of  water  in  perpendicular 
shafts,  originally  formed  by  drills,  made  by  loose 
stones  whirled  round  in  the  current.  The  same 
appearance  extends  to  the  islands  and  rocks  in  the 
channels,  many  of  which  appear  quite  inaccessi- 
ble, with  their  ragged  and  perpendicular  sides 
overhung  by  dark  evergreens,  whose  shade  seems 
the  more  intense  from  its  contrast  with  the  white 
rapids  and  cascades  below.  In  some  places  the 
road  is  protected  by  immense  natural  battlements, 
formed  of  massy  rock,  which  have  been  loosened 
from  above,  and  planted  themselves  on  the  brow 
of  the  precipice.  The  scenery  has  been  compared 
with  that  of  the  river  Dove  in  Derbyshire,  and 
the  Killin  in  Perthshire,  England. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  river  runs  the  canal 
supported  by  a  wall  20  or  30  feet  high,  construct- 
ed at  great  expense,  and  rising  from  the  veiy  chan- 
nel of  the  Mohawk.  The  wildness  of  the  surround- 
ing scenery  contrasts  no  less  with  the  artificial 
beauty  of  this  noble  work,  than  the  violence  and 
tumult  of  the  Mohawk  with  the  placid  and  silent 
surface  of  the  canal,  or  the  calmness  and  security 
with  which  the  boats  glide  along  the  side  of  the 
mountains. 

The  canal  traveller  may  step  on  shore  at  the 
two  locks,  and  walk  along  the  tow  paths,  as  there 
are  five  more  locks  a  mile  above.  If  he  wishes 
to  stop  a  few  hours  to  view  ihe  scene  more  at  lei- 
sure, the  village  of  Little  Ealls  is  only  half  a  mile 
from  that  place,  where  is  a  large  and  comfortable 
inn,  with  canal  boats  and  stage  coaches  passing  • 
very  frequently. 


S 


GERMAN     FLATS. 


The  Aqueduct  across  the  Mohawk  is  near  the 
five  locks;  and  is  considered  the  most  finished  spe- 
cimen of  mnsoii  work  oij  the  line  of  the  canal 
though  much  inferior  in  size  to  that  over  the  Ge- 
nesee at  Rochester.  It  conducts  a  supply  of  water 
from  the  old  canal,  formerly  built  for  boats  to 
pass  the  falls,  and  communicatts  also  with  a  large 
basin  on  the  north  bank.  It  passes  the  narrow 
channel  of  the  river  with  three  beautiful  arches, 
which  are  covered  with  a  calcareous  cement 
roughened  by  little  stalactites,  formed  by  the 
water  that  continually  drips  through  the  stones. 
The  span  of  the  middle  arch  is  60  feet.  Stones, 
twigs  of  trees,  &.c.  on  which  the  water  falls,  are 
soon  found  incrusted  with  a  similar  substance. 
The  channel  here  shows  part  of  the  old  limestone 
strata,  with  the  more  durable  granite  rocks  laid 
bare  below. 

This  range  of  mountains,  called  in  this  part  of 
the  state  the  Catsbergg,  is  a  spur  of  the  Alleghany 
and  extends  along  the  west  side  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  till  it  disappears  in  the  northern  levels  in 
Canada. 

This  neighborhood  is  interesting  to  the  geolo- 
gist, abounding  in  organic  remains,  and  rock- 
crystals,  (quartz),  terminating  with  two  pyramids. 

There  are  mills  of  various  kinds  at  this  place. 

On  leaving  Little  Falls,  the  canal  enters  upon 
a  beautiful  meadow  of  fine  soil,  and  smooth  sur- 
face ;  through  which  the  Mohawk  winds  in  a  pla- 
cid and  gentle  current,  enclosed  on  each  side  by 
sloping  hills.  At  the  distance  of  three  miles,  we 
are  in  the  level  region  called  the  German  Flats', 
famous  for  its  fertility.    The  inhabitants,  who  are 


■Hi 


54 


ROUTE     TO    NIAGARA. 


almost  all  of  German  extraction,  still  preserve 
their  language,  and  many  of  the  customs  of  their 
ancestors,  and  though  often  laborious  and  provi 
dent  farmers,  are  little  inclined  to  those  improve- 
ments in  learning  or  the  useful  arts,  which  dis- 
tinguish so  large  a  portion  of  the  state.  7.^he 
scenes  presented  along  this  part  of  the  canal  bear 
a  resemblance  to  some  of  the  meadows  of  the 
Connecticut,  although  of  inferior  size,  and  of 
more  recent  settlement. 

Six  miles  from  Little  Falls  is  Lock  No,  48.  An 
old  church  is  seen  ol'  the  south  side  ;  and  also,  old 
Fort  Herkimer. 

Herkimer,  This  village  is  situated  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  beyond,  and  a  mile  north  of  the  canal, 
on  a  semicircular  plain ;  the  circumference  of 
which  is  tracea  b^  the  Mohawk,  and  the  diameter 
by  the  great  road.  It  derives  its  name  from  Gen. 
Herkimer,  of  whom  there  will  be  more  to  say  at 
Rome.  Fort  Herkimer,  or  the  "Stone  House," 
is  near  the  canal,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Herki- 
mer. 

The  traveller  may  take  a  carriage  here,  to  visit 
Trenton  Falls,  and  join  the  canal  again  at  Utica  ; 
or  go  first  from  Utica. 

The  Long"  Level  begins  at  Lock  No.  53,  near- 
ly six  miles  west  of  Herkimer.  It  is  the  longest 
reach  on  the  canal,  without  any  interruption  by 
locks,  extending  to  Salina,  a  distance  of  69i  miles. 
After  passing  Frankfort,  we  reach 

UTICA. 

This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important 
of  the  western  towns.  Here  the  river,  the  great 
road,  and  the  canal,  all  meet  ttgain.     There  are 


i 


i 


\ 


TRENTON      FATLS. 


M 


ear- 
nest 
by 
liles. 


Lant 
eat 
are 


also  roads  concentrating  here,  from  various  direc- 
tions, and  stage  coaches  arriving  and  departing  in 
great  numbers. 

There  are  several  handsome  churches  inUtica, 
and  one  or  more  for  almost  every  denomination. 
The  streets  are  broad,  straight,  and  commodious; 
and  the  principal  ones  well  built  with  rows  of 
brick  stores,  or  elegant  dwelling-houses.  The 
bridge  over  the  Mohawk  is  at  the  end  of  the 
street.     There  were,  in  1h30,  8253  inhabitants. 

Hamilton  College  is  situated  near  the  village  of 
Clinton,  nine  miles  from  Utica.  There  were 
fourteen  graduated  here  in  1828. 

TRENTON   FALLS. 

This  most  interesting  vicinity  is  well  worthy 
the  attention  of  every  person  of  taste,  being  jystly 
considered  one  of  the  finest  natural  scenes  in  this 
pert  of  the  country.  An  excellent  inn  is  kept 
near  the  falls. 

From  this  house  you  descend  a  long  staircase 
down  the  steep  bank  of  the  West  Canada  Creek, 
which  has  cut  a  frightful  chasm  through  a  rocky 
range,  in  some  places  150  feet  deep,  and  is  seen 
gliding  swiftly  by  through  a  declining  channel  be- 
low. The  chasm  continues  for  four  miles,  and 
presents  the  greatest  variety  of  cascades  and  ra- 
pids, boiling  pools  and  eddies.  The  passage  is 
everywhere  very  narrow,  and  in  some  places  it 
has  been  often  necessary  to  form  an  artificial  path 
by  means  of  gunpowder.  These  places  appear 
dangerous,  but  only  require  a  little  caution  and 
presence  of  mind  to  ensure  the  safety  of  the  visi- 
ter, as  strong  iron  chains  are  fixed  into  the  rocks 
to  ofler  him  security.     There  are  four  principal 


|: 


i\ 

SI 


56 


ROUTE    TO     NIAGARA. 


I'M 


cataracts,  between  the  staircase  by  which  you  first 
descend  and  the  usual  limit  of  an  excursion,  which 
is  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  up  the  stream.  The 
first  of  these  you  discover  soon  after  the  first 
turning,  and  is  about  40  feet  high ;  with  the 
greatest  fall  towards  the  west.  The  top  of  the 
rock  on  the  right  side  is  150  feet  high  by  line  mea- 
surement. The  second  is  a  regular  fall,  much  like 
a  mill  dam,  about  eight  feet  high;  the  third, 
a  remarkably  striking  and  beautiful  one  ;  and 
the  fourth,  rather  a  succession  of  cascades,  but 
presents  many  most  agreeable  varieties. 

Near  the  foot  of  this  a  melancholy  accident  oc- 
curred in  1827.  A  lady  from  New-York  was 
drowned  by  slipping  from  a  low  bank;  unseen, 
although  her  friends  and    parents  were   near  her. 

A  singular  species  of  tree  is  found  in  this 
neighborhood,  called  the  white  cedar,  with  droop- 
ing branches,  which  often  grow  to  such  a  length 
as  to  descend  far  below  the  root,  towards  the 
water.  The  rocks  here  are  all  a  dark  limestone, 
of  a  very  slaty  structure,  and  contain  astonishing 
quantities  of  petrified  marine  shells  and  othe.' 
animals  of  antideluvian  date,  such  as  dilobites, 
trilobites,  &c.  &c. 

There  are  several  other  cataracts  besides  those 
already  mentioned,  both  above  and  below ;  and  a 
stranger  might  spend  some  time  here  very  agreea- 
bly in  observing  them  at  leisure,  and  in  catching 
the  fine  trout  with  which  the  creek  abounds. 


i 


FORT   STaNV/IX, 


57 


;y'OU  first 
iif  wiiich 
n.  The 
the  first 
vith  the 
p  of  the 
ine  mea- 
luch  like 
le  third, 
le  ;  and 
ides,  but 

0 

dent  oc- 
jrk  was 
unseen, 
jcar  her. 
in  this 
1  droop- 
a  length 
irds  the 
riestone, 
)nishing 
othe.* 
ilobites, 

es  those 

J  ; and  a 
agreea- 
atching 

ids. 


FROM  UTICA  TO  SYRACUSE. 

By  the  Canal  633  miles. 
Whitestown,     .         .         .         .         .4  miles;. 

Oriskany  village 7 

Rome  on  the  right,    .         .         .         .    8 
Feeder  from  Wood  Creek,  and  the  old 
U.  S.  Arsenal,        ....    1 
Oneida  Creek,  ...  14 

Lock  54,  end  of  the  long  level,  29 

Syracuse,  ....         — £ 

Theye  places  are  noticed  in  succession. 
"Whitestown  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villa- 
ges in  this  part  of  the  state,  as  well  as  the  oldest 
settlement.  All  this  tract  of  country  was  a  per- 
fect wilderness  in  1785,  when  Mr.  White,  from 
Middletown  in  Connecticut,  first  took  up  his  abode 
here  and  lifted  an  axe  against  the  forest.  The 
traveller  may  keep  this  in  mind  as  he  pursues  his 
journey,  and  the  progress  of  civilization  will  ap- 
pear more  astonishing. 

SEIGE  OF  FORT  STANWIX.  On  the  road 
from  Whitestown  to  Rome,  is  the  spot  where 
Gen.  Herkimer  remained  under  a  tree  after  re- 
ceiving his  mortal  wound.  In  1777,  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne  sent  between  1500  and  1800  men,  many  of 
them  savages,  under  Haron  St.  Leger,  from  Mon- 
treal, by  Lake  Ontario,  to  attack  Fort  Stanwix; 
and  *hen  to  go  down  the  Mohawk  to  Albany. 
Early  in  August,  they  arrived  at  Fort  Stanwix. 
Gen.  Herkimer,  commander  of  the  militia  of  Try- 
on  county,  was  sent  against  them  with  800  men. 
His  men  insisted  on  going  on,  to  meet  a  detach- 
ment under  Sir  J.  Johnson,  sent  out  by  St.  Le- 
ger ;   but  at  the  first  shot  they  fled.     A  few  re- 

5 


I 


58 


ROUTE    TO    NIAGARA. 


mained  and  fought,  and  Gen.  H.  was  killed.  Con- 
gress voted  a  monument  to  his  niemory,  bvt  it 
has  never  been  erected.  The  Americans  lost  160 
killed,  and  240  wounded  and  prison{;rs.  Two 
rrJ^es  below  Fort  Stanwix  the  canal  ucriju:enccs 
between  the  Mohawk  and  Wood  Creek. 

Fort  Stanwix  stood  60  or  80  rods  N.  E.  of  the 
centre  of  the  village  of  Rome,  with  a  deep  ditch, 
three  rows  of  palisadoes,  and  a  block-honse  in 
the  middle. 

Rome.  Near  this  village,  when  the  caral  was 
opened  through  a  ridge  of  diluvial  formation, 
clams  were  found  alive,  which  were  eaten  by  the 
workmen.     (See  Am.  Journ.  of  Sci.  &c.   1829.) 

ONEIDA  CASTLE.  Tliis  is  a  village  on  the 
confines  of  a  tract  of  reserved  land  belonging:  to 
the  Indians  of  the  Oneida  nation.  The  principal 
residences  of  most  of  the  Indians  in  this  part  of 
the  country  were  formerly  fortified  in  a  manner 
corresponding  with  their  ideas  of  woUare,  and 
hence  the  name  of  castle  attached  to  this  village, 
as  well  as  to  several  others  which  we  have  occa- 
sion to  speak  of  further  on. 

The  Oneidas  were  one  of  the  original  Five  Na- 
tions, which  form  so  conspicuous  a  figure  in  the 
history  of  this  state. 

A  mile  east  of  O  :^a  Creek,  and  by  the  road 
side  's  the  ancient  COUNCIL  GROVE,  where 
all  the  public  business  of  the  nation  was  for  many 
years,  transacted.  It  is  formed  of  27  fine  butter- 
nut trees,  which,  in  the  summer  season,  from  a 
little  distance,  presents  a  most  beautiful  and  regu- 
lar mass  of  verdure.  Towards  the  5outh-east  from 
this  place  is  seen  the  Episcopal  church  for  the 
use  of  the  Indians. 


I 


UYRACOSE. 


s§ 


jd.  Con- 
,  bnt  it 
lost  160 
s.  Two 
aii:enccs 

iJ.  of  the 
jp  ditch, 
koiise  in 

ral  was 
rniation, 
n  by  the 
1829.) 
e  on  the 
Jgingr  to 

)rincipal 

part  of 

manner 

^re,  and 

village, 

e  occa- 

ive  Na- 
in  the 

e  road 
where 
r  many 
butter- 
fro  m  a 
d  regu- 
3t  from 
or  the 


1 


A  cori«iilivable  portion  of  the  tribe  have  recent- 
ly removed  to  Green  Bay. 

The  Oneida  nation  were  idolatrrs  until  within 
a  short  timt;  ;  but  a  few  years  ago  the  nation  re- 
nonnceu  their  ancient  superstitious  rites,  and  de- 
clared in  favor  of  Christianity. 

BROTHERTOWN  AND  NEW  STOCK- 
BRIDGE,  Are  two  villages,  a  few  miles  south- 
easterly from  here,  situated  on  part  of  the  old 
Oneida  reservation,  but  granted  to  some  of  their 
scattered  Indian  brethren  from  Pennsylvania  and 
New-England.  New-Stockbridge,  until  recently, 
was  the  residence  of  the  Stock-bridge  tribe,  who 
came  by  an  invitation  from  the  Oneidas  some 
years  ago.  They  had  Christian  ministers  among 
them  long  before  they  removed  from  Stock-bridge 
in  Massachusetts.  Most  of  them  now  reside  at 
Green  Bay,  on  land  given  them  by  the  Menorai- 
nies. 

Manlius  Centre,  50  yards  from  the  canal  and 
two  miles  east  of  Manlius  Centre,  is  a  curious 
spring,  from  which  sulphuretted  hydrogen  rises, 
which  is  inflammable. 

SYRACUSE. 

The  great  Salt  Spring  is  only  a  mile  and  &  '  alf 
distant,  and  the  water  is  brought  in  hollow  Ir  <  to 
the  salt  vats,  in  great  abundance,  and  at  a  very 
trifling  expense.  The  vats  will  be  seen  at  ihe 
western  side  of  the  villaore,  as  well  as  the  woik» 
at  Salina,  Liverpool  (6  miles  distant),  and  Ged- 
desburgh.  In  all  these  four  villages,  about  500 
acres,  in  1827,  were  supposed  to  be  covered  with 
vats,  for  solar  evaporation.  The  vats  are  large 
pans   made  of  wood,  three  or  four  inches  deep, 


m 
m 


!i 


60 


ROtTE   TO    NIAOAilA. 


raised  a  little  fiom  the  ground,  and  placed  in  long 
ranges,  with  a  very  gradual  descent,  to  permit  the 
salt  water  to  flow  slowly  along  from  one  end  to 
the  other.  Each  range  of  vats  is  supplied  by  a 
hollow  log  placed  perpendiculary  in  the  ground  : 
and  the  constant  action  of  the  sun  evaporates  the 
water,  and  leaves  the  salt  to  be  deposited  in  small 
cubical  crystals  at  the  bottom.  The  water  is  at 
first  a  little  thick,  but  gradually  deposites  its  im- 
purities ;  and  the  lower  vats  always  show  a  beau- 
tiful white  crust,  like  the  purest  snow. 

Light  wooden  roofs  are  kept  ready  to  slide  over 
the  vats  when  the  weather  requires  it ;  and  the 
salt  is  taken  out  once  in  two  or  three  days,  to  be 
deposited  in  the  storehouses,  which  are  built  at 
regular  distances. 

Thence  it  is  easily  removed  to  the  canal,  and 
then  is  ready  for  transportation  to  any  part  of  the 
country. 

In  1823,  there  were  about  100  houses,  and  the 
number  was  doubled  in  1824.  In  1827,  the  salt 
vats  covered  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres,  and 
cost  the   companies  engaged,  ^120,000. 

The  Osv^ego  CanaL  was  opened  in  July,  1828, 
leaves  the  Erie  canai  at  this  place,  and  affords  a 
direct  communication  with  Lake  Ontario.  A  lake 
ship  canal  might  be  made  at  a  small  additional  ex- 
pense. The  bank  is  used  as  a  tow  path  a  consi- 
derable distance.  The  shores  rise  gradually  to  a 
hei(^ht  of  100  feet,  with  few  inhabitants  and  little 
cultivation.  The  locks  and  other  works  are  of 
the  1  pst  description,  and  very  admirable  workman- 
Ebip,  A  barrel  of  flour  will  go  for  six  cents  less, 
by  tie  Like  and  this  canal,  from  Roohester  to  S«i- 


i' 


8ALINA. 


61 


id  in  long 
ermit  the 
e  end  to 
lied  by  a 
ground : 
urates  the 
I  in  small 
ater  is  at 
\9  its  im- 
v^  a  beau- 

ilide  over 

and  the 

lys,  to  be 

I  built  at 

mal,  and 
irt  of  the 

and  the 
the  salt 
;res,  and 

y,  1828, 
affords  a 

A  lake 
onal  ex- 
a  consi- 
ally  to  a 
md  little 

are  of 
orkman- 
nts  less, 
r  to  Sa- 


lina.  It  is  38  miles  lonor.  Half  that  distance  it 
is  constructed  along  the  bank  of  the  river  of  the 
same  name,  connected,  with  it  by  locks,  and  the 
other  half  is  slack-water  navigation  in  the  river. 
It  has  22  bridges,  7  culverts,  1  aqueduct,  2  waste 
weirri,  8  dams  across  the  river,  13  locks  of  stone 
and  1  of  stone  and  timber,  with  an  aggregate  lift 
of  123  feet. 

SALINA,  Is  situated  a  mile  and  a  half  north 
from  Syracuse,  The  mode  of  evaporation  gen- 
erally adopted  here,  is  that  of  boiling.  Each 
building  contains  sixteen  or  eighteen  large  iron 
kettles,  of  120  gallons  each,  which  are  placed  in 
two  rows,  forming  "  a  block.*'  They  stand  about 
three  feet  higher  than  the  floor;  and  under  them 
is  a  large  furnace,  which  is  heated  with  pine 
wood,  and  requires  constant  attention  to  keep  the 
water  always  boiling.  The  water  is  drawn  from 
a  large  reservoir  at  one  end  of  the  building,  after 
having  been  allowed  to  stand  awhile  and  deposite 
the  impurities  it  has  brought  along  with  it.  A 
hollow  log,  with  a  pump  at  one  end,  and  furnished 
with  openings  against  the  kettles,  is  the  only  ma- 
chine used  in  filling  them.  The  first  deposite 
made  by  the  water  after  the  boiling  commences,  is 
a  compound  of  several  substances,  and  is  thrown 
away,  under  the  name  of  "  Bittern  ;''  but  the  pure 
white  salt,  which  soon  after  makes  its  appearance, 
is  carefully  removed,  and  placed  in  a  store-room 
just  at  hand,  ready  for  barrelluig  and  the  market. 
Each  manufactory  yields  about  75  bushels  a  day. 

There  are  two  large  manufactories  here,  where 

salt  is  made  in  reservoirs  of  an  immense  size,  and 

evaporated  by  hot  air   passing  through  them  in 

5# 


I 


62 


ROUTE    TO    NIAGARA. 


i^^ 


large  pipes.  The  reservoir  of  the  principal  one 
contains  40,000  gallons.  The  pipe  is  supplied 
with  heat  by  a  furnace  below,  ancl  the  salt  is  form- 
ed in  large  loose  masses,  resembling  half-thawed 
ice.  The  crystalization  also  is  different  from  that 
produced  by  the  other  modes,  at  least  in  secon- 
dary forms. 

The  village  of  Salina  is  of  considerable  size 
and  a  flourishing  appearance.  In  1833,  it  con- 
tained 8000  inhabitants;  the  village  of  Geddes, 
.520;  and  Liverpool,  375.  The  extensive  marshes 
which  bound  it  on  the  west  are  imwh(»lesome  du- 
ring the  warmer  seasons  of  the  year,  and  the 
whole  neighborhood  is  more  or  less  infected  with 
the  fev^r  and  ague.  Since  the  marshes  have  been 
partially  cleared  and  drained,  the  disease  has  been 
greatly  diminished. 

The  branch  canal  wliich  runs  through  this  vil- 
lage, is  made  to  turn  several  mill  wheels  in  its 
course.  A  forcing  pump  raises  the  water  of  the 
salt  spring  destined  to  supply  the  manufactories 
here  and  at  Syracuse ;  that  for  the  latter  being 
elevated  to  the  height  of  70  feet,  and  the  pump 
being  able  to  raise  120,000  gallons  in  24  hours. 

The  Salt  Spring  itself  will  be  viewed  as  a  cu- 
riosity, but  in  its  present  state  presents  no  very 
remarkable  appearance.* 

The  Lake  will  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  about 
a  mile.  It  is  six  miles  long  and  two  broad,  and 
must  receive  a  considerable  quantity  of  saltwater 
from  the  draining  of  the  marshes,  as  its  banks  are 
covered  with  saline   plants.     The  valley  la   sur- 

*  Quantity  of  «alt  inspected  in  1831,  1.514,057  buihelj';  duty  to  the 
States,  12i  cents  per  bushel.  Ahout  5  millions  of  bushels  are  made  in  the 
U-  States,  and  the  same  quantity  imported  annually. 


SYRACUSE    TO   ROCHESTER. 


63 


ipal  one 
supplied 
i  is  form- 
f-thawed 
rom  that 
n  secon- 

ible  size 
it  con- 
Geddes, 
marshes 
iome  du- 
and  the 
ted  with 
ave  been 
las  been 

this  vil- 
s  in  its 
r  of  the 
actories 
r  being 
e  pump 
ours, 
as  a  cu- 
Do  very 

f  about 
ad,  and 
It  water 
nks  are 
ig   sur- 


diity  to  the 
nado  in  the 


i 


'¥ 


\ 


founded   by   limestone  hills,    with  petrifactions; 
and  gypsum  is  found  in  great  quantities. 

*'  The  American  Salt  Forrnation,^^  says  Dr. 
Van  Renselaer  in  his  *  Essay,'  "extends  over  the 
continent  from  the  Alleghanies  to  the  Pacific,  be- 
tween 31°  and  45°  N.  lat.  In  this  immense  tract, 
rock  salt  has  been  occasionally  found.;  but  its  lo- 
cality is  more  generally  pointed  out  by  brine 
springs."  The  salt  springs  in  this  state  are  in  the 
counties  of  Onondaga,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  Onta- 
rio, Niagara,  Genesee,  Tompkins,  Wayne,  and 
Oneida;  but  this  is  the  most  valuable  on  various 
accounts.  In  135  manufactories,  salt  is  made  by 
artificial  heat,  in  3,076  kettles;  and  the  vats  would 
extend  if  in  a  line,  about  30  miles.  In  1831, 
near  1|  millions  of  pounds  of  salt,  was  manufac- 
tured in  all  these  villages. 

FROM  SYRACUSE  TO  ROCHESTER. 

As  the  traveller  is  supposed  to  go  to  Rochester 
by  the  canal,  the  description  of  places  on  the 
Turnpike  is  omitted  until  we  reach  that  part  of 
the  country  on  the  return  frorr.  Buffalo, 

By  the  canal,  99  miles.  Weed's  Basin  26  m. 
— A  coach  to  Auburn,  8  miles  for  50  cents.  11 
m.  Montezuma  Salt  Works.  Here  begin  the 
Cayuga  Marshes.  The  canal  across  the  marshes 
was  constructed  at  a  vast  expense.  35  ra.  Palmy- 
ra. Coach  to  Canandaigua,  13  m.  for  75  cents. 
The  Gieat  Embankment  at  Victor,  72  feet  high, 
extending  2  miles. 

Antiquities,  In  the  towns  of  Onandaga,  Camil- 
lus,  and  Pompey,  are  the  remains  of  ancient  vil- 
lages and  forts,  of  which  a  description  will  be 
found  in  Yates  and  Monlton's  new  History  of  the 
State,  vol.  i,  p.  13.     In  Pompey   the  form  of  a 


H 

ft  ^ 


n 

m 


IS 


64 


ROUTE    TO    NIAGARA. 


Ill 

I 


triangular  enclosure  is  visible,  with  the  remains  of 
something  like  circular  or  elliptical  forts  at  the 
corners,  8  miles  apart,  the  whole  including  more 
than  600  acres.  De  Witt  Clinton,  late  Governor 
of  this  state,  in  his  memoir,  read  in  1817,  before 
the  Lit.  and  Phil.  Society,  thinks  the  place  was 
stormed  on  the  north  line.  See  also  North  A- 
raerican  Review. 

In  Camillus  is  an  elliptical  fort  on  a  high  hilt, 
three  acres  in  extent,  with  a  covered  way,  lO  rods 
long,  to  a  spring  on  the  west,  and  a  gate  tov^'^rds 
the  east.  Another  is  on  a  less  elevation  half  a 
mile  off,  and  half  as  large.  Sculls,  pottery,  and 
bits  of  brick  used  to  be  picked  up  in  these  places. 

ROCHESTER 

Is  the  largest  and  most  flourishing  place  in  this 
part  of  the  state,  being  indeed  the  fourth  in  the 
state  in  point  of  numbers,  the  township  contain- 
ing, in  1833,  10,000.  It  is  situated  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Genesee  river,  at  the  npper  falls, 
where  it  is  crossed  by  the  canal ;  and  enjoys  the 
finest  advantages  for  water-mills  of  all  kinds, 
from  the  convenient  and  abundant  supply  obtain- 
ed from  the  falls.  Stage  Coaches  go  hence,  daily, 
to  Buffalo  through  Batavia;  to  Canandaigua;  to 
Niagara  falls  by  Lockport  and  Lewiston,  &.c.  <kc. 

Rochester  was  first  surveyed  into  lots  in  the 
year  181 1,  the  first  settlement  made  in  1812,  and 
it  was  not  until  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1814, 
that  any  considerable  addition  was  made  to  the 
number  of  inhabitants.  In  1818,  the  village  con- 
tained 1049  inhabitants;  and  in  1830,  9207. 

There  are  some  fine  dwellings,  an  arcade,  a 
courthouse,  jail,  market,  13  large  flour  mills  of 
stone,  which  can  make  342,000  barrels  of  flour 


} 


ROCBESTEti. 


65 


mains  of 
s  at  the 
ng  more 
lovernor 
r,  before 
ace  was 
[orth  A- 

igh  hill, 
10  rods 
tovt'^rds 
I  half  a 
?ry,  and 
i  places. 

e  in  this 

i   in  the 

contain- 

he  west 

r   falls, 

oys  the 

kinds, 

obtain- 

,  daily, 

^iia ;  to 

\lc.  Sec, 

in    the 

2,  and 

r  1814, 

to   the 

ge  con- 

• 

ade,  a 
lills  of 
f  flour 


annually.  There  are  52  run  of  stones  in  all. 
About  9  million  feet  of  lumber  are  sawed  here  in 
a  year ;  and  5  millions  brought  down  the  river. 
There  is  a  cotton  factory,  with  1400  spindles  and 
30  power  looms,    and   a  woollen  factory  ;  three 

\  bridges  over  the  Genesee,  8  canal  basins,  two  dry 
docks,  6lc.  The  Broadway  bridge,  600  feet  long, 
is  a  few  yards  above  the  aqueduct. 

There  is  an  eye  and  ear  infirmary,  a  bank,  a 
High  School,  and  6  meeting-houses  for  Episco- 
palians, Presbyterians,  Methodists,  Friends,  and 
Catholics. 

j  The  water  power  belonging  to  this   village  and 

the  vicinity  is  equal  to  the  power  of  38,400  hor- 
ses;  or,  1,920  steam  engines  of  20  horse  poweir 
each.  Therefore  the  water  power  is  worth  (com- 
puting the  cost  of  such  engines,  as  in  England,  at 
^8,880  each ;  and  the  annual  expense  of  work- 
ing at  222  dollars  for  each  horse  power,)  almost 
ten  millions  annually.  Only  a  small  part  of  it  is 
yet  used.  The  whole  river  supplies  20,000  cubic 
feet  a  minute;  and   the  combined   height  of  the 

I        falls  at  Rochester  and  Carthage  is  about  280  feet. 

^  A  fall  of  121  cubic  feet  of  water  in  a  minute,  20 
feet  is  equal  to  the  power  of  one  horse.  The 
capital  invested  in  manufactories  was  g6ll,000, 
in  1832;  and  the  amount  manufactured,  $1,857, 
000. 

The  Aqueduct  over  the  Genesee  is  one  of  the 
finest  works  on  the  course  of  the  canal,  and  is  no 
less  remarkable  for  its  usefulness  than  for  its  arch- 
itectural beauty  and  strength.  It  is  borne  across 
the  river's  channel,  on  ten  arches  of  hewn  stone. 
The  river  dashes   rapidly  along  beneath,   while 


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ROUTE    TO    NIAGARA. 


boats,  with  goods  and  passengers,  glide  safely 
above. 

A  feeder  enters  the  canal  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  and  sluices  are  also  constructed  for  the  sup- 
ply of  the  numerous  manufactories  built  on  the 
banks.  All  that  part  of  the  canal  west  from  Ro- 
chester, is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Tona- 
wanta  creek. 

The  Fall  at  Carthage,  with  the  truly  impressive 
scenery  of  the  banks,  is  worthy  of  particular  at- 
tention. 

A  Railroad  furnishes  a  conveyance  to  Carthage. 

The  Lake  Ontario  Steamboat  touches  at  Port 
Genesee,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  its  way  to 
Niagara  and  to  Ogdensburgh — the  route  to  iWon- 
treal, 

Carthage.  The  fall  is  70  feet  in  a  few  yards. 
The  precipices  are  walls  of  secondary  rocks,  pre- 
senting their  natural  stratification,  and  descending 
from  the  surrounding  level,  to  a  depth  of  about 
two  hundred  feet.  A  singular  vein  of  whitish 
stone  will  be  observed,  cutting  them  horizontally, 
and  disappearing  at  the  brink  of  the  falls,  which 
it  has  kept  at  their  present  position  :  its  superior 
hardness,  evidently  resisting  the  action  of  the 
water  for  a  much  longer  time ;  and  probably  ren- 
dering the  descent  more  perpendicular  than  it 
would  Jiherwise  be.  The  rocks  are  overhung 
with  thick  forest  trees. 

One  of  the  boldest  single  fabrics  that  art  has 
ever  successfully  attempted  in  this  country,  now 
shows  a  few  of  its  remains  in  this  place.  The 
two  great  piles  of  timber  which  stand  opposite 
p^ch  other  on  the  narrow  level,  where  once  the 


i 


'>w_.. 


ROCHESTER    TO    NIAGARA. 


67 


dc  safely 

ide  of  the 
ir  the  sup- 
It  on  the 
from  Ro- 
the  Tona- 

mpressive 
ticular  at- 

Carthage. 
IS  at  Port 
its  way  to 
ie  to  MoU' 

ew  yards. 

rocks,  pre- 

lescending 

1  of  about 

of  whitish 

rizontally, 

Is,    which 

s  superior 

on   of  the 

|bably  ren- 

r   than   it 

overhung 

it  art  has 
^itry,  now 

ice.  The 
opposite 
once  the 


river  flowed,  are  the  abutments  of  a  bridge  thrown 
over  a  few  years  ago.  It  was  400  feet  in  length, 
and  250  above  the  water;  but  stood  only  a  short 
time,  and  then  fell  with  a  tremendous  crash,  by 
its  own  weight.  Fortunately,  no  person  was 
crossing  it  at  the  time — a  lady  and  gentleman  had 
just  before  passed,  and  safely  reached  the  other 
side. 

On  account  of  the  obstructions  at  the  falls,  nav- 
igation is  entirely  interrupted  here ;  and  all  the 
communication  between  the  banks  of  the  Gene- 
see, as  well  as  the  canal,  and  Lake  Ontario,  is 
through  Carthage.  Merchandise  is  raised  up  the 
bank,  or  lowered  down,  by  means  of  an  inclined 
plane,  very  steep,  where  the  descending  weight 
is  made  to  raise  a  lighter  one  by  its  superior 
gravity. 

ROAD  FROM  ROCHESTER  TO   NIAGARA 

FALLS,  87  miles. 


To  Carthage  Falls  2 

Parma  9 

Clarkson*  7 

Hartland  14 

Sandy  Creek  7 


To  Gainps  8 

Oak  Orchard  7 

Cambria  11 

Lewiston  15 

Niagara  Falls  7 


The  principal  objects  on  this  road  are,  the 
Ridge,  Lewiston,  on  Niagara  river,  and  the  Tus. 
carora  Village.  Niagara  Village  will  be  seen  if 
you  do  not  cross  into  Canada  at  Lewiston ;  and 
Queenstown  if  you  do.  Lockport  should,  by  all 
means,  be  visited. 

*  Holley  Village,  25  miles  west  of  Rochester,  is  12  miles  distant  from 
the  sulphuric  acid  spring  in  Byron.  There  are  but  two  others  known  iu 
the  world :  one  in  the  ancient  crater  of  Mount  Idienne  in  Java,  and  the 
other  in  the  Rio  de  Vinagre,  or  Vinegar  river,  flowing  from  the  extinct 
volcano  of  Purace,  near  Popayan,  in  the  waters  of  which  fish  will  not 
live,  and  the  spray  of  which  irritates  and  inflames  the  eyes  of  travellers. 


'1 


i; 


;h 


i 


68 


ROUTE    TO    NIAGARA. 


The  Ridge  is  a  remarkable  elevation,  of  little 
height  and  for  the  most  partx^ery  narrow,  extend- 
ing a  great  part  of  the  distance  from  Rochester 
to  Lewiston.  It  is  often  perfectly  level  for  sev- 
eral miles,  and  affords  an  admirable  foundation 
for  the  road,  which  has,  in  consequence,  been  laid 
along  its  top.  Some  have  imagined  that  the  ridge 
was,  at  some  long  past  period,  the  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  and  was  thrown  up  by  its  waves* 

The  ground  presents  a  slope  on  each  side  of 
the  path,  peculiarly  well  adapted  for  home  lots, 
gardens,  and  orchards;  and  well-built,  and  even 
handsome,  houses  will  be  observed,  which  are 
still  few  indeed,  but  show  that  a  good  style  has 
actually  been  introduced. 

Gasportj  6^  miles  east  of  Lockport,  derives  its 
name  from  the  carburetted  hydrogen  gas  which 
rises  in  the  basin  of  the  canal. 

LOCKPORT- 

This  is  one  of  the  interesting  places  on  the 
canal.  Here  is  the  noblest  display  of  locks,  two 
ranges,  made  of  fine  hewn  stone,  being  construct- 
ed against  the  brov/  of  the  Mountain  Ridge. 
Above  the  locks,  the  Deep  Cut  offers  a  singular 
passage  between  high  walls  of  rocks. 

Lockport  is  one  of  the  most  advantageous  sites 
for  machinery  on  the  canal,  as  all  the  water  pas- 
ses down  the  mountain  ridge,  which  the  canal  re- 
quires, for  an  extent  of  135  miles ;  Tonawanta 
creek  being  the  only  feeder  from  Buffalo  to  the 
Seneca  river.  It  is  brought  down  by  passing 
round  the  double  locks,  and  falls  55  feet  into  a 
large  natural  basin,  where  two  ranges  of  overshot 
wheels  may  be  built,  each  at  least  2%>  feet  in   di- 


h 


m0im 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


69 


,  of  little 
V,  extend- 
lochester 
I  for  sev- 
Dundatioii 
,  been  laid 
I  the  ridge 
3  of  Lake 

h  side  of 
Lome  lots, 
and  even 
w^hich  are 
style  has 

derives  its 
las  which 


s   on   the 

ocks,  two 

Iconstruct- 

^n   Ridge. 

singular 

eous  sites 
[vater  pas- 
canal  re- 
[onawanta 
llo  to  the 
passing 
let  into  a 
overshot 
let  in  di" 


k 


ameter.  The  rocks  are  blasted  out  to  a  depth  of 
00  feet.  Within  a  few  years,  the  spot  has  been 
changed  from  a  wilderness  to  a  village  of  2,300 
inhabitants.  It  is  65  miles  to  Rochester,  and  27 
to  Buffalo.     Pop.  in  1830,  3823. 

Minerals.  The  rocky  stratum  is  a  carbonate 
of  lime,  containing  organic  remains ;  cncrinites, 
enchrocites,  &c.  &c.  crystals  of  carb.  lime;  rhom- 
boidal,  dogtooth  spar,  12  sided;  fluate  of  lime; 
beautiful  crystals  of  sulphate  of  lime  ;  sulph.  of 
strontian  ;  pyrites;  sulphuret  of  zinc  ;  sulphuret 
of  lead.  Collections  of  minerals  may  be  pur- 
chased here. 

The  Tuscarora  reservation  is  an  oblong  tract 
of  land  reaching  within  a  mile  of  Lewiston. 
They  emigrated  from  North  Carolina,  near  the 
beginning  of  the  last  century,  at  an  invitation  from 
the  Five  Nations,  and  were  admitted  on  equal 
terms  into  their  confederacy,  which  has  since  re- 
ceived the  name  of  the  Six  Nations.  They  have 
had  a  clergyman  settled  among  them  for  many 
years,  and  Christianity  has  been  voluntarily  adop- 
ted by  them.  Their  village  has  some  handsome 
and  well-cultivat  '  farms,  and  a  house  built  for 
public  worship. 

THE  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA-/rom  the  Amer- 
ican side. 

The  Hotels  are  large  buildings,  very  well  kept 
and  commodious. 

The  height  of  the  fall  on  this  side  is  160  feet 
perpendicular,  but  somewhat  broken  in  several 
places  by  the  projecting  rocks.  It  extends  300 
yards  to  a  rock  which  interrupts  it  on  the  brow  of 
the  orecipice.    A  narrow  sheet  appears  beyond 

6 


II: 


I 


70 


FALLS    OF    NIAUAHA. 


it,  and  tlien  comes  Goat  Island,  with  a  mnral  pre- 
ci|)ice.  Between  this  and  the  other  shore  is  the 
Grand  Crescent,  for  which  see  a  few  pajres  be- 
yond. There  is  a  bridge  to  the  ishmd,  which  com- 
mands many  line  views  of  the  falls.  It  rests  on 
wooden  piers  sunk  with  stones. 

Tlie  Staircase  conducts  safely  to  the  bottom  of 
the  preci])ice ;  and  boats  may  row  up  near  to  the 
cataract. 

The  Sorcerer'* s  Cave, — A  very  singular  cavern 
was  discovered,  in  1825,  about  half  a  mile  below 
the  falls,  which  is  reached  by  descending  the  old 
Indian  ladder,  a  steep  path-way,  rendered  passa- 
ble hy  roots,  rocks,  «fec.  The  cave  is  about  80 
yards  below  the  ladder.  The  way  to  it  is  dilli- 
cult;  the  passage  is  barely  large  enough  to  admit 
a  man,  and  in  it  are  found  stalactites,  and  speci- 
mens of  something  that  seems  like  petrified  moss 
or  wood.  About  20  feet  above  is  a  beautiful 
spring,  issuing  from  a  rock,  in  a  singular  rocky 
position  ;  and  there  is  another  cave  near  by,  which 
is  also  worthy  of  a  visit. 

About  two  miles  below  the  falls,  is  a  Mineral 
Spring,  said  to  contain  sulphuric  and  muriatic 
acids,  lime,  and  magnesia. 

There  is  a  ferry  at  Lewiston,  which  is  about 
half  a  mile  across ;  but  the  current  is  strong  on 
this  side,  and  the  eddy  sets  np  with  such  force  on 
the  other,  that  a  boat  moves  more  than  double 
that  distance  in  going  over.  The  banks  here  have 
an  appearance  very  wild  and  striking. 

The  rocks  are  a  dark  red  sandstone,  with  thin 
strata  of  a  more  clayey  character  and  a  lighter 
qolor,  occurring  every  few  feet. 


i 


\ 


t'ALLS    OF    NIAGARAi 


Tl 


mural  prc- 
Iiorc  is  the 

pujres  be- 
kvliich  corn- 
It  rests  oil 

!  bottom  of 
near  to  the 

jlar  cavern 
mile  below 
ini^  tlic  old 
cred  passa- 
j   about   80 

it  is  dilFi- 
rh  to  admit 

and  speci- 
rified  moss 
1    beautiful 

lar   rocky 

by,  which 

a  Mineral 
d  muriatic 

is   about 

strong  on 

h  force  on 

an    double 

i here  have 

with  thin 
a  lighter 


Quccnstoum^  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  river, 
U  a  e-mail  town. 

THi:  BATiLi:  Ol'^  QIJKKNSTOWN.  Du- 
ring tfie  late  war  bctwc^cn  the  United  States  and 
(Jreat  Britain,  in  liU'i,  while  (jen.  Van  Rcns^se- 
laer  was  stationed  atLewiston,  he  formed  the  bold 
design  of  taking  Quecnstown  ;  and  before  day- 
light on  tiic  morning  of  Octobor  l^ith,  emharked 
his  troops  at  the  ferry,  and  passed  over  the  river 
under  cover  of  a  battery.  4s  the  accessible 
points  on  the  coast  were  strictly  watched,  and  de- 
fended by  batteries,  the  place  selected  for  the  at- 
tack was  the  lofty  and  f)rocipitous  bank  just  above. 
Two  or  three  small  batteries  had  been  erected  on 
the  brow,  the  remains  of  which  are  still  visible. 
The  heights  were  surmounted,  and  the  Americans 
commenced  a  brisk  action  on  the  summit.  Gen. 
Brock,  vvho  was  it  a  distance,  hearing  the  guns, 
hastened  to  the  spot;  but  under  a  tree  near  the 
precipice  was  killed  by  a  chance  shot.  The  Amer- 
icans remained  in  possession  of  the  heights  a  few 
hours,  but  were  then  obliged  to  recross  the  river. 

The  Monument  to  General  Brock  was  rai- 
sed by  the  British  government  in  the  year  1824  at 
Queenstown  ;  and  the  remains  of  Gen.  Brock  and 
Col.  M*Donald,  his  aid,  have  since  been  deposited 
there.  Its  height  is  126  feet;  and  the  view  from 
the  top  is  very  fine  and  extensive,  the  base  being 
350  feet  above  the  river.  In  clear  weather,  the 
eye  embraces  not  only  the  river  below,  and  the 
towns  of  Lewiston  and  Queenstown,  but  those  of 
Newark  and  Fort  Niagara,  at  the  entrance  of  Lake 
Ontario,  York  harbor,  Youngstown,  part  of  the 
route  of  the  Welland  canal,  a  vast  level   tract  of 


II 


I        I: 


II 

I' 


!!!  I! 


ii!    1 


n 


FAT.LS    OF    NtACJAUA. 


country  covered  witli  n  uniform  forent,  and  tlic 
liori/on,  fonncil  by  the  distant  lake  itfself. 

The  monument  \n  huilt  of  a  eoarno  j^ray  linn*- 
«tone,  of  which  the  hill  is  formed,  and  contains 
some  shells  and  other  or<ranic  remains. 

From  Qurcnstown  to  Niagara  Falls  is  5«evcu 
miles,  over  a  level,  sandy  road. 

The  country  between  Niatjani  and  York,  U.  C, 
is  considered  the  most  beautiful,  most  fertile,  and 
best  cultivated  part  of  the  province.  The  scene- 
ry is  alternately  wild  and  pleasing,  and  the  rapid 
progress  of  population,  the  arts,  and  bubiness  cre- 
ated by  the  Welland  cunai  and  its  collateral  works, 
will  soon  render  this  tract  of  country  a  favorite 
part  of  the  tour  of  the  northern  traveller. 

Ancient  Tumuli*  Near  Sir  P.  Maitland's  (four 
miled  from  Queenstowm)  is  a  range  of  risi.ig 
ground,  which  overlooks  the  country  and  lake  for 
a  great  distance.  Near  the  top  a  quantity  of  hu- 
man bones  were  discovered  a  few  years  since  by 
the  blowing  down  of  an  old  tree,  A  great  num- 
ber of  skeletons  were  found  on  digging,  with  In- 
dian beads,  pipes,  &c.  and  some  conch-shells,  sha- 
ped apparently  for  musical  instruments,  placed 
under  several  of  the  heads.  Other  perforated 
shells  were  found,  such  as  are  said  to  be  known 
only  on  the  western  coast  of  the  continent,  within 
the  tropics.  There  were  also  found  brass  or  cop- 
per utensils,  <Slc.  and  the  ground  looks  as  if  it  had 
been  defended  with  a  palisade. 

The  Whirlpool^  sometimes  called  the  Devil's 
Hole,  cannot  be  seen  without  leaving  the  road  and 
going  to  the  bank.  The  rocks  are  about  260  feet 
above  the  water ;  they  form  a  deep  basin,  and  the 
water  is  extremely  agitated. 


< 


III'I'I'INIWI 


wiiniirimmnimiri 


forest,    and  the 

!  it.scir. 

irsc  ^ray  limc*- 

•  and  conlnini) 

liris. 

Falls  is  5cveik 

d  York,  U.  C, 
^st  fcTtilc,  and 
.     The  scene- 

nnd  the  rapid 
d  buhincss  crc- 
dhiteral  works, 
try  a  favorite 
seller. 

aitJand's  (four 
nge  of  riaiig 
y  and  lake  for 
uantity  of  hu- 
'ears  since  by 
A  great  num- 
ging,  Mith  In- 
ch-shells, sha- 
nents,  placed 
er  perforated 

to  be  known 
itinent,  within 
I  brass  or  cop- 
•ksas  if  it  had 


i  the  DeviPs 
f  the  road  and 
bout  260  feet 
jasin,  and  the 


i 


u  i 


-      S 


.    IK 


IS 


:i|i 


'S; 


i! 


! 

I  ■ 


;v:.A((  AR  A,  i'':u():vi    i^klow  , 


:) 


\ 


Ml- 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


73 


•J^ 


I     i! 


,j 


A  leisurely  walk  the  whole  distance,  near  the 
river,  may  please  the  admirer  of  nature;  as  the 
high  and  r'  cky  clills  which  form  the  banks  on 
both  sides  present  a  continued  succession  oi'  stri- 
king scenes. 

THE  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA— /ro7/i  the  British 

side* 

Tliere  are  two  large  Inns  or  Hotels  on  the  Oa- 
nadian  side  of  the  river,  both  situated  as  near  the 
falls  as  could  be  desired.  That  kept  by  Mr.  For- 
syth stands  on  what  ought  strictly  to  be  called  the 
upper  bank,  for  that  elevation  appears  to  have 
once  formed  the  river's  shore.  This  is  the  larger 
house  ;  the  galleries  and  windows  in  the  rear  com- 
mand a  fine  view  of  the  cataract,  although  not  an 
entire  one,  and  overlook  the  rapids  and  river  for 
several  miles  above.  The  other  house  is  also 
commodious,  and  commands  the  same  scene  from 
a  different  point  of  view. 

Following  a  footpath  through  the  pasture  be- 
hind Forsyth's,  the  stranger  soon  finds  himself  on 
the  steep  brow  of  the  second  bank,  and  the  mighty 
cataract  of  Niagara  suddenly  opens  beneath  him. 
A  path  leads  away  to  the  left,  down  the  bank,  to 
the  verge  of  the  cataract ;  and  another  to  the 
right,  which  offers  a  drier  walk,  and  presents  a 
more  agreeable  and  varied  scene. 

The  surface  of  the  rocks  is  so  perfectly  flat  near 
the  falls,  and  the  water  descends  so  considerably 
over  the  rapids  just  before  it  reaches  the  precipice, 
that  it  seems  a  wonder  that  the  place  where  you 
stand  is  not  overflown.  Probably  the  water  is 
restrained  onl)^  by  the  direction  of  the  current,  as 
a  little  lateral  pressure  would  be  sufficient  to  flood 

6* 


71 


FALLS    OF    NIAOAUA. 


the  elevated  level  beside  it,  where,  there  can  be 
no  question,  the  course  of  the  river  once  lay. 

Tabic  Rock  is  a  projection  a  i(iw  yards  from  the 
cataract,  which  commands  a  fine  view  of  this  mag- 
nificent scene.  Indeed,  it  is  usually  considered 
the  finest  point  of  view.  The  hei<rht  of  the  fall 
on  this  side  is  said  to  be  174  feet  perpendicular; 
and  this  height  the  vast  sheet  of  foam  preserves 
unbroken,  quite  round  the  Grand  Crescent,  a  dis- 
tance, it  is  estimated,  of  700  yards.  Goat  Island 
divides  the  cataract,  and  just  beyond  it  stands  an 
isolated  rock.  The  fall  on  the  American  side  is 
neither  so  high,  so  wide,  nor  so  unbroken ;  yet, 
if  compared  with  any  thing  else  but  the  Crescent, 
would  be  regarded  with  emotions  of  unequalled 
sublimity.  The  breadth  is  900  feet,  the  height 
160,  the  sheet  is  broken  towards  the  bottom  by 
projecting  rocks.  A  bridge  built  from  the  Amer- 
ican side  connects  Iris  or  Goat  Island  and  the 
main  land,  though  invisible  from  this  spot;  and 
the  inn  on  the  same  side,  in  Niagara,  is  seen  a  lit- 
tle way  from  the  river. 

It  maybe  recommended  to  tlic  traveller  to  visit 
this  place  as  often  as  he  can,  and  to  view  it  from 
every  neighboring  point;  as  every  change  of  light 
exhibits  it  under  a  different  and  interesting  aspect. 
The  rainbows  are  to  be  seen,  from  this  side,  only 
in  the  afternoon ;  but  at  that  time  the  clouds  of 
mist,  which  are  continually  rising  from  the  gulf 
below,  often  present  them  in  the  utmost  beauty. 

Dr.  Dwight  giv^es  the  following  estimates,  in 
his  travels,  of  the  quantity  of  water  which  pass- 
es tKe  cataract  of  Niagara.  The  river  at  the 
.ferry  is  7  furlongs  wide,  and  on  an  average 25  feet 


fc.axi"iM*'"*'W*j»v*^»-'  !';■  w*>iii.»im""Wnft>TJii 


FALLS    OF    XIAC.ARA. 


75 


can  be 
ay. 

•om  the 
is  majj- 
sitlcrcd 
he   fall 
icular ; 
3scrves 
,  a  (Jis- 
Island 
nils  an 
side  is 
n;  yet, 
escent, 
[jualled 
height 
om   by 
Amer- 
ind the 
t;  and 
n  a  lit- 

:o  visit 
t  from 
»f  light 
ispect. 
,   only 
lids  of 
e   gulf 
luty. 
es,  in 
pass- 
at   the 
lb  feet 


deep.  The  current  probably  runs  six  miles  an 
hour;  but  supposing  it  to  be  only  5  miles,  the 
quantity  that  passes  the  falls  in  an  hour,  is  more 
than  85  millions  of  tons  avoirdupois  ;  if  we  sup- 
pose it  to  be  6,  it  will  be  more  than  102  millions; 
t.nd  in  a  day  would  be  2400  millions  of  tons. 
The  noise,  it  is  said,  is  sometimes  heard  at  York, 
50  miles. 

The  Rapids  begin  about  half  a  mile  above  the 
cataract;  and,  although  the  breadth  of  the  river 
might  at  first  make  them  appear  of  little  impor- 
tance, a  nearer  inspection  will  convince  the  stran- 
ger of  their  actual  size,  and  the  terrific  danger  of 
the  passage.  The  inhabitants  of  the  neiglibor- 
hood  regard  it  as  certain  death  to  get  once  invol- 
ved in  them;  and  that  not  merely  because  all  es- 
cape from  the  cataract  would  be  hopeless,  but 
because  the  violent  force  of  t!io  water  among  the 
rocks  in  tiie  ehnnnc  1,  would  instantly  dash  the 
bones  of  a  man  in  pieces.  Instances  are  on  record 
of  persons  being  carried  down  by  the  stream  ; 
but  no  one  is  known  to  have  ever  survived.  In- 
deed, it  is  verv  rare  that  the  bodies  are  found  ;  as 
the  depth  of  the  gulph  below  the  cataract,  and  the 
tumultuous  agitation  tf  the  eddies,  whirlpools, 
and  counter  currents,  render  it  difficult  for  any 
thing  once  sunk  to  rise  again  ;  while  the  general 
course  of  the  water  is  so  rapid,  that  it  is  soon  hur- 
ried far  down  the  stream.  The  large  logs  which 
are  brought  down  in  great  numbers  during  the 
spring,  bear  sufficient  testimony  to  these  remarks. 
Wild  ducks,  geese,  &c.  are  frequently  precipita- 
ted over  the  cataract,  and  generally  reappear 
either  dead  or  with  their  legs   or  wings  broken. 


i(  I 


■    f  i 

,1 


m 


76 


l^ALLS    Ot*    NIAGARA. 


Some  say  that  water  fowl  avoid  the  place  when 
able  to  escape,  but  that  the  ice  on  the  shores  of 
the  river  above  often  prevents  them  from  obtain* 
ing  food,  and  that  they  are  carried  down  from 
the  mere  inability  to  Hy;  while  others  assert  that 
they  are  sometimes  seen  voluntarily  riding  among 
the  rapids,  and  after  descending  half  way  down 
the  cataract,  taking  wing,  and  returning  to  repeat 
their  dangerous  amusement.  In  1828,  a  small 
boat  passed  in  safety  among  the  islands  below  the 
bridge  on  the  United  Stales'  side;  but  in  October 
of  that  year  two  men  were  lost  in  a  boat  which  was 
carried  down  by  the  ice.  JVarrow  escapes  have 
since  occurred. 

The  most  sublime  scene  is  presented  to  the  ob- 
server when  he  views  the  cataract  from  below  ; 
and  there  he  may  have  an  opportunity  of  going 
under  the  cataract.  This  scene  is  represented  in 
the  plate.  To  render*  the  descent  practicable,  a 
spiral  staircase  has  been  formed  a  little  way  from 
Table  Rock,  supported  by  a  tall  mast ;  and  the 
stranger  descends  without  fear,  because  his  view  is 
confined.  On  reaching  the  bottom,  a  rough  path 
among  the  rocks  winds  along  at  the  foot  of  the 
precipice,  although  the  heaps  of  loose  stones  which 
nave  fallen  down,  keep  it  at  a  considerable  height 
above  the  water.  A  large  rock  lies  on  the  very 
brink  of  the  river,  about  15  feet  long  and  r  feet 
thick)  which  you  may  climb  up  by  means  of  a 
ladder,  and  enjoy  the  best  central  view  of  the 
falls  any  where  to  be  found.  This  rock  was  for- 
merly a  part  of  the  projection  above,  and  fell,  a 
few  years  ago,  with  a  tremendous  roar.  It  had 
been   observed  by  Mr.  Forsyth  to  be  in  a  very 


' i"Wi 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


77 


e  when 
hores  of 

obtain- 
n  from 
ert  that 
jamong 
'   down 

repeat 
a  small 
low  the 
3ctober 
ich  was 
3s  have 

the  ob« 
below ; 
f  going 
nted  in 
able,  a 
y  from 
nd  the 
view  is 
^h  path 

of  the 
1  which 
height 
le  very 

f  feet 
s  of  a 
of  the 
IS  for- 
fell,  a 
[thad 

very 


precarious  situation,  the  day  before,  and  he  had 
warne<l  the  strangers  at  his  house  not  to  venture 
near  it.  A  lady  and  gentleman,  however,  had 
been  so  bold  as  to  take  their  stand  upon  it  near 
evening,  to  view  the  cataract;  and  in  the  night 
they  heard  the  noise  of  its  fall,  which  shook  the 
house  like  ai)  cLrthquake.  A  large  piece  of  rock 
near  the  centre  of  the  great  horseshoe  of  Niaga- 
ra Falls,  broke  off  in  the  summer  of  1829,  and 
fell  into  the  guif  with  a  crash  that  was  heard  se- 
veral miles  off. 

In  proceeding  nearer  to  the  sheet  of  falling 
water,  the  path  leads  far  under  the  excavated  bank, 
which  in  on€  place  forms  a  roof  that  overhangs 
about  40  feet.  The  vast  column  of  water  con- 
tinually pouring  over  the  precipice,  produces  vio- 
lent whirls  in  the  air;  and  the  spray  is  driven  out 
with  such  force,  that  no  one  can  approach  to  the 
edge  of  the  cataract,  or  even  stand  a  few  moments 
wear  it,  without  being  drenched  to  the  skin.  It  is 
also  very  difficult  to  breathe  there  ;  so  that  per- 
sons with  weak  lungs  would  act  prudently  to  con- 
tent themselves  with  a  distant  view,  and  by  no 
means  to  attempt  to  go  under  the  cataract.  Those 
who  are  desirous  of  exploring  this  tremendous 
cavern,  should  attend  very  carefully  to  their  steps, 
and  not  allow  themselves  to  be  agitated  by  the 
sight  or  the  sound  of  the  cataract,  or  to  be  blind- 
ed by  the  strong  driving  showers  in  which  they 
wiil  be  continually  involved  ;  as  a  few  steps  would 
plunge  them  into  the  terrible  abyss  which  receives 
the  falling  river. 

In  the  summer  of  1827,  a  schooner,  called  the 
Michigan,  which  was  found  to  be  unfit  for  the  na- 


"if  I 


f  ' 


*,  I'll 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA* 


vigation  of  Lake  Erie,  being  of  too  great  a  depth 
of  water,  was  towed  by  a  steamboat  to  the  end  of 
Grand  Island,  and  then  by  a  row  boat  under  the 
command  of  Capt.  Rough,  to  the  margin  of  the 
rapids,  where  she  was  abandoned  to  her  fate. 
Thousands  of  persons  had  assembled  to  witness 
the  descent.  A  number  of  wild  animals  had  been 
inhumanly  placed  on  her  deck,  confined  to  pass 
the  cataract  with  her.  She  passed  the  first  fall  of 
the  rapids  in  safety  ;  but  struck  a  rock  at  the  se- 
cond, and  lost  her  masts.  There  she  remained 
an  instant,  until  the  current  turned  her  round  and 
bore  her  away.  A  bear  here  leaped  overboard  and 
swam  to  the  shore.  The  vessel  soon  filled  and 
.  sunk,  so  that  only  her  upper  works  were  after- 
wards visible.  She  went  over  the  cataract  almost 
without  being  seen,  and  in  a  few  moments  the  ba- 
sin was  perceived  all  scattered  with  her  fragments, 
which  were  very  small.  A  cat  and  a  goose  were 
the  only  animals  found  alive  below.  In  October, 
1829,  the  schooner  Superior  was  towed  into  the 
current  and  abandoned ;  but  she  struck  on  a  rock 
about  the  middle  of  the  river,  and  there  remained* 
The  notable  jumper,  Sam  Patch,  leaped,  the  fol- 
lowing day,  from  a  ladder,  125  feet  high,  into  the 
gulf,  and  escaped  unhurt. 

The  Burning  Spring.  About  half  a  mile 
above  the  falls,  and  within  a  few  feet  of  the  rapids 
in  Niagara  river,  is  a  remarkable  Burning  Spring. 
The  water,  which  is  warm,  turbid,  and  surcharged 
with  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  rises  in  a  barrel 
which  hag  been  placed  in  the  ground,  and  is  con- 
stantly in  a  state  of  ebullition.  The  barrel  is 
covered,  and  the  gas  escapes  only  through  a  cop- 


di 

bl 

11 
\^ 
\\ 


BATTLE    OF     CHIPPEWA. 


79 


a  deptli 
!  end  of 
der  the 
of  the 
ir    fate, 
ivitness 
id  been 
to  pass 
t  fall  of 
the  se- 
mained 
nd  and 
ird  and 
ed  and 
J  after- 
almost 
he  ba- 
ments, 
?  were 
jtober, 
ito  the 
I  rock 
ained, 
le  fol- 
io the 

mile 
rapids 
3ring. 
arged 
barrel 
5  con- 
rel  is 

cop- 


per tube.  On  bringing  a  candle  within  a  little 
distance  of  it  the  gas  lakes  fire,  and  continues  to 
burn  with  a  bright  flame  until  blown  out.  By  leav- 
ing the  house  closed  and  the  fire  extinguished  the 
whole  atmosphere  within  explodes  on  entering 
with  a  candle. 

While  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  falls,  the  visi- 


ter 


his  til 


;  very  agreeably,  by  visiting 
the  village  of  Chippewa  and  Lundy's  Lane,  in  this 
vicinity  ;  which,  during  the  late  war,  were  the 
scenes  of  two  sharp  contests. 

The  Battle  of  Chippewa. 

In  July,  1814,  the  British  and  American  armies 
being  near  each  other,  Gen.  Ripley  ordered  Gen. 
Scott  to  make  an  advance  on  Chippewa,  on  the  3d 
of  July,  with  Capt.  Towson's  division  of  artil- 
lery ;  and  the  enemy's  pickets  were  soon  forced 
to  retire  across  the  bridge.  Gen.  Ripley  came 
up  in  the  afternoon  and  encamped  with  Gen, 
Scott's  advance, 

[The  stranger  may  be  gratified  by  examining 
the  field  of  these  operations,  by  going  to  Chippe- 
wa village,  about  two  miles  above  Forsyth's.  The 
American  encampment  of  July  23d,  in  the  rear  of 
a  tavern  near  the  road,  about  a  mile  beyond  Chip- 
pewa.] 

On  the  5th,  after  some  sliarp  shooting,  the  In- 
dians were  discovered  almost  in  the  rear  of  the 
American  camp.  At  this  moment,  Gen.  Porter 
arrived  with  his  volunteers  and  Indians.  Gen. 
Brown  immediately  directed  them  to  enter  the 
woods  and  efl^ectually  scour  them.  Gens.  Brown, 
Scott,  and  Ripley  were  at  the  white  house,  in  ad- 
vance,  reconnoitring.     Gen.    Porter's  corps  had 


I 


80 


ROUTE   TO    NIAGARA. 


i! 


almost  debouched  from  tlie  woods  opposite  Chip- 
pewa, when  the  whole  British  force  had  crossed 
the  Chippewa  bridge,  and  Gen.  Scott  advanced, 
and  Gen.  Ripley  was  in  readiness  to  support.  In 
a  few  minutes,  the  British  line  was  discovered 
formed  and  rapidly  advancing — their  right  (the 
Royal  Scots)  upon  the  woods,  and  their  left  (the 
prince  regent's)  on  the  river,  with  the  king's  own 
for  their  reserve.  Their  object  was  to  gain  the 
bridge  across  the  creek  in  front  of  the  encamp- 
ment, which  if  done,  would  have  compelled  the 
Americans  to  retire.  Gen  Scott,  under  a  most 
tremendous  fire  from  the  enemy's  artillrry,  cross- 
ed the  bridge,  and  formed  his  line.  They  were 
soon  completely  broken  by  Gen.  Scott's  brigade, 
and  threw  themselves  across  the  Chippewa  bridge, 
which  they  broke  down.  They  thought  proper  to 
evacuate  Chippewa  very  precipitately,  and  to  re- 
treat towards  Queenstown. 

In  this  affair  the  British  loss,  in  killed,  wounded, 
and  missing,  was  514,  and  the  American  loss  328, 

Nothing  of  importance  occurred  after  this  until 
the  25th  of  tbe  same  month,  tlie  date  of 

The  Battle  of  Brigewater,  or  Lundy's 
Lane.  The  principal  scene  of  this  hard-fought 
and  bloody  action  is  about  a  mile  from  the  Falls, 
at  an  obsure  road,  called  Lundy's  Lane.  Since 
their  retreat  from  Chippewa,  the  enemy  had  re- 
ceived reinforcements  of  troops  from  Lord  Well- 
ington's army  in  Spain ;  and  on  the  25th  of  July 
encamped  on  a  hill,  with  the  design  of  attackir>g 
the  American  camp  the  next  morning.  At  6  in 
the  evening,  Gen.  Brown  ordered  Gen.  Scott  to 
advance  and  attack  them,  which  was  immediately 


I 


% 


VVELLAND  CANAL. 


8i 


e  Chip- 
crossed 
ivaiiced, 
)()rt.  In 
jcovered 
ght  (the 
left  (the 
)g's  own 
Jain  the 
encamp- 
?lled  the 
a  most 
y,  cross- 
lev  were 
brigade, 
a  bridge, 
proper  to 
id  to  re- 

i^ounded, 
loss  328. 
this  until 

Lundy's 
d- foil  ght 
he  Falls, 
Since 

had  re- 
rd  Well- 

of  July 
ittackin^ 

At  6  in 
Scott  to 
lediately 


done  ;  and  in  conjunction  with  Gen.  Ripley  the 
attacii  was  commenced  in  an  hour.  The  British 
were  much  surprised  at  seeing  the  approach  of 
their  en^my  at  this  hour,  not  having  discovered 
them  until  they  left  the  woods  and  began  to  march 
across  the  open  level  fiehls  seen  from  Forsyth's 
Kotel,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  left. 

For  two  hours  the  two  hostile  lines  were  with- 
in twenty  yards  of  each  other,  and  so  frequently 
intermingled,  that  often  an  officer  would  order  an 
enemy's  platoon.  The  moon  shone  bright ;  but 
part  of  our  men  being  dressed  like  the  Glengarian 
regiment  caused  the  deception.  They  frequently 
charged,  and  were  as  often  driven  back.  One  re- 
giment, under  Colonel  Miller,  was  ordered  to 
storm  the  British  battery,  and  took  every  piece  of 
the  enemy's  cannon.  We  kept  possession  of  the 
ground  and  cannon  until  12  o'clock  at  night,  and 
then  fell  back  more  than  two  miles,  to  secure  the 
camp,  which  might  otherwise  have  been  attacked 
in  the  rear. 

The  British  lost,   in  killed,  wounded,  and  pri- 
soners, 878  ;  and  the  Americans  860. 
WELLAND  CANAL. 

It  may  well  be  recommended  to  the  traveller  to 
devote  a  little  time  to  visiting  this  new,  important 
and  highly  interesting  work,  which  can  be  done 
by  those  who  have  a  short  time  to  spare. 

The  improvement  of  Upper  Canada  has  had  to 
encounter  great  obstacles  in  the  climate,  the  wild- 
ness  of  the  country,  the  vicinity  of  a  land  under 
a  different  system  of  government,  the  large  re- 
serves of  soil  for  the  support  of  the  clergy,  (oi*e- 
seventh  of  the  whole,)  and  a  general  want  of  in- 

7 


?  i> 


82 


ROUTE    TO   NIAGARA 


I 


telli<rence  and  enterprize  among  the  inliabitants. 
Some  of  these  have  been  already  in  a  considera- 
ble degree  surmonnted,  and  are  likely  to  be  slid 
further  overcome,  by  the  encouragenicnts  oflered 
by  the  mother  country,  and  the  introduction  of 
scientific  engineers  and  funds  by  the  Canada  Com- 
pany. 

The  obstacles  which  it  was  the  object  of  the 
Welland  Canal  to  surmount,  is  of  a  character  that 
gives  great  interest  to  the  work.  The  largest  ca- 
taract in  the  world,  which  presents  a  scene  of  con- 
fusion, uproar,  and  tumult,  that  sets  at  nought  ail 
the  rules  of  order  and  restraint,  was  to  be  sur- 
mounted by  a  system  of  works  in  which  the  rush 
of  the  element,  so  awful,  resistless,  and  destruc- 
tive, was  to  be  curbed  and  tamed  to  a  calm  and 
gentle  descent,  and  rendered  useful  to  the  objects 
of  commerce  and  manufacture. 

The  Welland  Canal  will  admit  the  largest  ves- 
sels on  the  lakes,  viz.  those  of  125  tons.  It  was 
first  opened  Vj  navigation  in  November,  1829,  pre- 
cisely five  years  after  its  commencement,  but  has 
suffered  from  various  accidents  and  obstacles. 
The  work  begins  at  Port  Maitland  on  Grand  Ri- 
ver, about  40  miles  from  Buffalo,  where  it  is  raised 
eight  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake  Erie,  and  pro- 
ceeds, with  only  descending  locks,  to  Port  Dal- 
housie,  the  water  being  taken  from  Grand  River, 
above  a  dam  erected  for  that  purpose,  at  the  falls, 
five  miles  from  its  mouth. 

The  canal  is  now  carried  across  the  marsh  at  a 
level  five  feet  above  that  of  Lake  Erie,  to  Wel- 
land River ;  across  that  river  on  an  aqueduct, 
which  is   high  enough   to  permit  the  passage  of 


WELLAND    RIVER. 


83 


bitants. 
isidera- 
be  sti!l 
oflcred 
ction  of 
a  Com- 

of  the 
ter  that 
gest  ca- 

of con- 
ught  ail 
be  sur- 
he  rush 
lestruc- 
ilm  and 

objects 

est  ves- 
It  was 
29,  pre- 
but  has 
>stacles. 
and  Ri- 
s  raised 
nd  pro- 
>rt  Dal- 
1  River, 
he  falls, 

rsh  at  a 
to  Wel- 
[ueduct, 
sage  of 


vessels;  and  then  ah)ng  the  northern  bank,  to  the 
Deep  Cut,  at  the  northern  end  of  which  it  de- 
scends by  two  locks,  whence  it  descends  to  the 
level  of   Lake  Ontario. 

It  is  a  fact  well  established  by  scientific  survey- 
ors, that  only  a  narrow  ledge  of  rocks  occurs  be- 
tween the  two  ^akes,  and  that,  if  this  were  remov- 
ed, the  soil  is  generally  of  so  loose  a  nature,  that 
a  current  of  water  might  soon  wear  away  a  deep 
channel,  drain  off  Lake  Erie,  and  cause  a  tremen- 
dous inundation.  This  barrier  will  be  seen  at  the 
Mountain  Ridge,  on  the  northern  part  of  the  Ca- 
nal where  the  descent  is  above  300  feet.  From 
Lake  Erie  to  that  place  the  stranger  will  observe 
that  he  proceeds  on  an  almost  uninterrupted  level. 
The  continuation  of  the  Mountain  Ridge  forms 
the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  the  elevation  of  ground 
at  Lockport,  surmounted  by  the  noble  works  at 
that  place.  It  runs  for  many  miles,  presenting 
towards  the  east  an  irregular  line  of  precipice, 
with  salient  and  re-entering  angles,  like  an  im- 
mense fortification.  Most  of  the  streams  which 
fall  over  it  pour  down  the  ravines  thus  formed, 
and  there  is  reason  to  suppose  one  of  these  natur- 
al ravines  received  the  Niagara  river  at  the  Falls; 
and  that  the  apparent  attrition  of  the  rocks  for  a 
great  distance  below,  and  the  general  belief  of  the 
cataract  having  retired  for  miles,  are  not  to  be 
confided  in. 

The  Welland  or  Chippewa  River,  a  very  slug- 
gish stream,  has  a  course  of  30  or  40  miles,  be- 
tween the  two  lakes,  but  neaily  on  a  level  with 
Lake  Erie,  and  empties  into  Niagara  River  about 
two  miles  above  the  falls. 


1 1 


'\\ 


m 


I  I 


M 


I,! 


i 


84 


FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


The  Deep  Cut,  extends  one  mile  and  three  quar- 
ters, and  reiiuircd  the  excavation  of  1,477,700  cu- 
bic yards  of  earth.  The  excavation  is  now  to  an 
average  depth  of  45  feet.  The  ground  is  undula- 
ting, and  the  greatest  depth  is  56  feet. 

This  is  the  greatest  work  of  the  kind  in  Ameri- 
ca, excepting  perhaps  the  aqueduct  on  the  plain 
of  Mexico.  The  earth,  to  12  or  18  feet  below 
tlie  surface,  was  clay  mixed  with  a  little  sand. 
Below  that  was  a  hard  blue  clay,  frequently  re- 
quiring the  pickaxe.  The  earth  dug  out  near  the 
middle  of  the  cut  was  raised  up  the  brinks,  which 
are  )50  feet  apart  at  the  deepest  places,  as  the  na- 
ture  of  the  soil  required  a  gradual  slope.  In 
1828,  however,  great  masses  sunk  down  again 
into  the  canal,  so  that  the  excavations  are  made 
to  a  level  17  feet  above  that  at  first  designed. 

Lock  No.  1,  of  the  Mountain  Ridge,  is  4  miles 
and  23  chains  from  the  Deep  Cut.  The  interven- 
ing surface  is  undulating,  and  the  canal  passes  al- 
ternate ravines  and  ridges.  By  damming  the  for- 
mer a  little  way  from  the  line  on  the  left,  numer- 
ous pools,  or  reservoirs  (taken  together,  two  miles 
in  length)  were  formed. 

Near  the  brow  of  the  Mountain  Ridge  is  an 
elevation,  which  required  an  excavation  nearly  20 
feet  deep  for  20  chains.  On  this  level  are  four 
twin  bridges,  with  hutments  40  feet  asunder,  cor- 
responding with  the  breadth  of  all  the  locks  west- 
ward of  this  place,  which  are  40  feet  by  125,  and 
able  to  admit  steamboats  up  to  this  point,  either 
from  Grand  River  or  Niagara  River,  by  the  Wel- 
}and. 

liOcks  Nos.  1,2,  3,  4,  are  in  a  ravine  52  chains 


\ 


PORT    DALHOUSIE. 


05 


ree  quar- 
7,7UO  cu- 
ovv  to  an 
s  uiidula- 

in  Ameri- 
the  plain 
ct  below 
tie  sand, 
ently  re- 
i  near  the 
ks,  which 
as  the  na« 
lope.  In 
vn  again 
are  made 
rned. 

is  4  miles 
interven- 
passes  al- 
g  the  for- 
t,  numer- 
two  miles 

[Ige  is  an 
nearly  20 

are  four 
ider,  cor- 
cks  west- 

125,  and 
It,  either 
the  Wel- 

)2  chains 


in  length,    wliiclj  introduces  the  stranger  to    the 
most  remarkable  scene  ot*  the  kind  in  the  world. 

The  Mountain  Ridge,  Within  the  extent  of  a 
mile  and  55  chains  are  17  locks  of  22  feet  by  lOO, 
which  overcome  nearly  the  whole  elevation  of 
Lake  Erie  above  Ontario.  The  canal  winds  aionjr 
the  face  of  the  descent,  bending  to  the  left  and  the 
right,  to  give  room  for  reservoirs  between  the 
locks,  necessary  for  a  convenient  supply  of  water-. 
None  of  the  locks  are  less  than  30  yards  apart. 
This  is  the  only  part  of  the  route  where  rocks 
were  to  be  excava^'^d.  and  the  amount  of  rock  re- 
moved here  was  70,000  cubic  yards. 

At  the  foot  of  tliis  long  and  steep  descent  the 
canal  enters  a  ravine  which  extends  two  and  a  half 
miles  through  12  locks,  between  high  banks,  to 

St.  Catharine'* s.  The  descent  from  the  top  of 
the  ridge  to  this  place  is  322  feet.  To  Lake  Onta- 
rio from  thi-  place,  five  miles,  there  are  four  locks 
32  feet  by  125,  and  one  of  ten  feet  lift.  The  route 
runs  chiefly  along  the  valley  of  the  principal 
branch  of  the  Twelve  Mile  Creek, 

Port  Dalhousie^  tiie  harbor  of  the  Welland  Ca- 
nal on  Lake  G  :tario,  is  protected  by  two  fine 
piers,  run  out  200  and  350  yards,  nearly  at  the 
angle  of  storm,  which  is  about  80  degrees  west : 
the  eastern  overlapping  the  western,  with  a  re- 
turn pier.  A  large  harbor  for  boats,  and  a  timber 
pond  for  rafts,  have  been  formed  by  damming  the 
mouth  of  Twelve  Mile  Creek,  which  throws  the 
water  back  over  an  area  of  500  acres.  A  waste 
wier  lets  off  the  surplus  water  without  allowing 
it  to  enter  the  harbor,  so  that  there  is  no  current 
formed  through   it,  and  no  danger  is  incurred   of 

7* 


^!>      \" 


''■  I'  .    , 

m 


■  if 


•  K  I'  'J 

m 


86 


FALLS    OF   NIAGARA. 


forming  a  bar  at  its  mouth.  A  lock  of  five  feet 
lift  raises  vessels  from  the  l?arbor  to  the  basin. 

The  Canada  Land  Company,  by  whom  this 
magnificent  work  has  been  planned  and  accom- 
plished, is  a  corporation,  under  the  parliament  of 
the  colony,  with  a  capital  oi  $800,000, 

This  canal  admits  lai  .  essels  than  any  other 
in  America,  except  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeake 
Canal  in  Pennsylvania.  The  locks  are  of  wood, 
but  built  on  the  most  approved  principles.  The 
common  dimensions  are  100  feet  long,  22  wide, 
and  8  deep  ;  and  are  calculated  for  vessels  of  from 
100  to  125  tons  burthen.  The  largest  schooners 
heretofoie  used  on  the  lakes,  are  stated  to  be  not 
more  than  90  feet  long,  20  wide,  with  a  burthen 
of  from  60  to  90  tons.  Many  of  the  locks  re- 
quire puddling  and  flagging. 

The  Town  of  Gvelph  is  a  creation  of  the  year 
1827;  it  was  laid  out  and  settled  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Canada  Land  Company^  and  a  village 
has  suddenly  sprung  up  in  the  midst  of  the  wil- 
derness. This  place  is  the  central  settlement  on  a 
tract  of  the  Company's  lands  in  the  Gore  district, 
called  the  Township  of  Guelph,  containing  42,000 
acres  of  Crown  reserves  for  the  Six  Nations.  The 
Clergy  Reserves  are  on  the  N.  E.  of  it,  beyond 
which  are  Flamboro'  and  Beverly.  The  township 
of  Waterloo  is  S.  S.  W.  of  Guelph,  and  has  a  soil 
of  black,  fertile,  sandy  loam,  bearing  beech,  maple, 
elm,  bass,  ash,  cherry,  some  pine,  cedar,  and  hem- 
lock. The  surface  is  irregular,  and  the  streams 
swift.  The  town  is  on  the  river  Speed,  12  miles 
from  its  confluence  with  Grand  River,  5  from  Wa- 
tefloo,  14  from  Gait,  30  by  the  present  road  from 
AiQC^Ster,  and  25  from  Lake  Ontario.    Rivers  run 


THE    WESTERN    LAKES, 


87 


five  feet 
Qisin. 
om   this 
accom- 
iment  of 

ly  other 
sapeake 
)f  wood, 
s.  The 
52  wide, 
5  of  from 
hooners 
o  be  not 
burthen 
[)cks  re- 

the  year 
le  direc- 
L  village 
the  wil- 
ent  on  a 
district, 
r  42,000 
IS.    The 
beyond 
ownship 
as  a  soil 
,  maple, 
nd  hem- 
streams 
2  miles 
om  Wa- 
ad  from 
rers  run 


I 


I 


from  this  town  into  lakes  Huron,  Simcoe,  Erie, 
and  Ontario. 

Burlington,  The  Bay  is  remarkably  fine;  it  is 
sheltered  from  every  wind,  contains  15,000  acres, 
and  is  25  feet  deep.  The  fort  on  the  heights  is 
very  strong  and  commanding.  A  large  fleet  might 
lie  under  its  protection. 

DundaSf  at  the  head  of  Burlington  Bay,  is  a 
flourishing  place,  and  rising  in  importance. 

York,  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada,  is  a  place 
of  considerable  size.  The  public  buildings  make 
little  figure.  The  harbour  is  very  fine,  protected 
by  defensive  works  on  Gibraltar  Point.  King's 
College  is  of  recent  institution,  and  bears  the  style 
and  privileges  of  a  university. 

THE  WESTERN  LAKES. 

Ontario  is  180  miles  long,  40  miles  wide,  500 
feet  deep  ;  and  its  surface  is  computed  at  218  feet 
above  the  elevation  of  tide  water  at  Three  Rivers, 
270  miles  below  Cape  Vincent. 

Erie  is  230  miles  long,  50  miles  wide,  200  feet 
deep :  and  its  surface  is  565  feet  abo^"^  tide  water 
at  Albany. 

Huron  is  220  miles  long,  100  miles  average 
breadth,  900  feet  deep ;  and  its  surface  is  nearly 
595  feet  above  the  tide  water. 

Michigan  is  300  miles  long,  50  wide,  depth  un- 
known ;  elevation  the  same  as  Huron. 

Green  Bay  is  about  105  miles  long,  20  miles 
wide,  depth  unknown  ;  elevation  the  same  as  Hu- 
ron and  Michigan. 

Lake  Superior  is  459  miles  long,  109  miles  av- 
erage width,  900  feet  deep  ;  and  its  surface  650 
feet  above  the  Ude  water. 


I- 


P'-. 


B8 


nAtTLE  OF  r.niK. 


ii 


[lonce  the  bottom  of  Lake  Erie  is  not  as  low  aa 
the  foot  of  Niajrara  Falls;  but  the  botfoin  of  each 
of  the  other  lakes,  it  will  be  observed,  iL>  lower 
than  the  surface  of  the  ocean. 

**Lake  Superior  is  the  head  fountain,  the  p^rand 
reservoir  of  the  rnij^hty  volume.  After  makinjr  a 
semi-circle  of  five  degrees  to  the  soutf),acconimo- 
datinjr  and  enriching  one  of  the  most  fertile  and 
interesting  sections  of  the  globe,  it  meets  the  tide 
a  distance  of  2O0O  miles  from  its  source,  and  5000 
from  the  extreme  point  of  its  estuary,  on  the  At- 
lantic coast." 

The  lakes  have  a  periodical  rise  once  in  twelve 
years.     It  occurred  in  1815  and  1827. 
From  Niagara  Falls^   to  Biijfalo  on  the  Canada 

side  28^  miles. 

To  Chippewa, 2  miles. 

Waterloo,  (Fort  Erie,)       .     .   16 
(Over  the  ferry  to   Black  Uock,  25  cts.  each   pas- 
senger.) 

Buffalo, 2J 

Opposite  Buffalo,  in  Waterloo^  are  the  remains 
of  Fort  Erie,  a  fortress  of  great  consecjuence  in 
the  late  war.  There  was  a  strong  wall  surrounded 
with  intrenchments  reaching  to  the  Lake.  The 
remains  of  the  British  camp  are  also  seen,  and  the 
trees  are  still  wounded  with  shot. 

Battle  of  Erie,     On  the  I7th  of  September,18l4, 


a  severe  action  was  fou({ht  at  a  little  distance  from 
Fort  Erie,  when  a  part  of  the  American  garrison, 
1000  regulars,  and  1000  militia,  made  a  sortie,  and 
took  the  British  works,  about  500  yards  in  front 
of  their  line.  The  British  had  two  batteries  on 
their  left,  which  annoyed  the  fort,  and  were  about 


REMARKS    ON    UPPER    CANADA. 


89 


[\s  low  na 
n  of  each 
ie>  lower 

he  ^rand 
making  a 
ccornmo- 
tntilc  and 
s  the  tide 
and  5000 
jn  the  At- 

in  twelve 

le  Canada 

dies. 

each   pay- 


e  remains 

((uence  in 

liirrouniUMl 

ko.     The 

n,  and  the 

Lber,18l4, 
lance  from 
garrison, 
;orti€,  and 
Is  in  front 
itteries  on 
xre  about 


o|)oning  a  third.  Their  camp  was  ahoiit  two  miles 
(Hslaiit,  sheltered  hy  a  wood  ;  their  works  were 
garrisoned  with  one-third  of  their  infantry,  from 
1'^  to  1500  men,  and  a  detachment  of  artillery. 

Gen.  Porter,  with  the  volunteers,  Col.  Gibson 
with  the  ridemen,  and  Maj.  Brooks  with  the  23d 
and  21st  li^ht  infantry,  and  a  few  dismounted 
dragoons,  were  sent  from  the  extreme  left  of  the 
American  position,  by  a  passage  cut  through  the 
woods,  towards  the  enemy's  right;  and  Gen.  Mil- 
ler was  stationed  in  the  ravine  between  the  fort 
and  the  enemy's  batteries  ;  while  Gen.  Ripley  had 
a  reserve  under  the  bastions. 

A  little  before  3  P.  M.  the  left  columns  com- 
menced their  attack  upon  the  enemy's  right ;  and 
Gen.  Miller  at  the  same  time  pushed  forward  be- 
tween Nos.  2  and  3  of  the  batteries,  broke  their 
line,  and  took  their  two  blockhouses.  Battery 
No.  1  was  soon  after  deserted,  the  guns  were 
spiked,  and  the  magazine  of  No.  3  was  blown  up. 
Gen.  Ripley  was  wounded,  and  Col.  Gibson  killed. 
The  action  lasted  about  an  hour,  which  gave  time 
for  the  remaining  two-thirds  of  the  enemy's  force 
to  march  from  their  camp  and  partake  in  it.  The 
Americans  at  length  retired  with  prisoners,  having 
succeeded  in  their  object.  The  British  suffered  so 
much,  that  Lieut.  Gen.  Drummond  broke  up  his 
camp  on  the  21st,  and  retired  to  his  intrenchments 
behind  the  Chippewa  River. 

General  Remarks  on  Upper  Canada,  This  ex- 
tensive district  has  increased  in  population  with 
great  rapidity,  and  great  exertions  are  making  to 
introduce  improvements  of  various  kinds. 

Emigration  has  been  so  much  encouraged  by  the 


m 


mm 


i)'-^ 


II 


90        ROUTE    PROM    NIAGARA   TO    MONTREAL. 

British     )vernment,  for  the  peopling  of  this   part 

of  their  possessions,  that  great  numbers  of  Irish, 

Scotch,  and  English  have  come  over  within  a  lew 

years. 

From  Niagara  Falls  to  Buffalo  on  the  American 

side,  23J  miles, 
Tonawanta  Creek,  where  the  canal  passes,       11 
miles, 

Black  Rock,        10 

Buffalo, •     .     .     .       2\ 

To  Fort  George,  14  miles. 

Queenstown, 7 

Fort  George, 7 

[The  route  from  Niagara  to  Albany  and  the 
Springs  will  be  taken  up  after  the  route  to  Mon- 
treal.!    See  2?.  94. 

ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAL, 

392  miles. 

Those  who  have  never  travelled  through  the 
state  of  New-York,  and  have  leisure  to  make  so 
circuitous  a  route,  will  prefer  to  go  to  Buffalo, 
Lockport,  or  Rochester,  and  lake  the  line  of  the 
Erie  Canal,  the  Springs,  Lake  George,  and  Lake 
Champlain  in  their  way  to  Montreal.  Many,  how- 
ever, will  prefer  to  take  the  more  direct  route, 
which  is  by  the  steamboats  through  Lake  Ontario. 
The  American  boats  go  from  Fort  Niagara  to 
Ogdensburgh,  keeping  towards  the  southern  shore, 
and  touching  at  the  principal  ports.  The  British 
boats  make  a  few  stops,  but  steer  a  course  very 
near  the  middle  of  the  lake,  which  is  the  boundary 
between  the  two  countries.  They  are  usually  out 
of  sight  of  land  about  twelve  hours.  There  are 
several  high  points  on  the  northern  shore.     The 


EA.L. 


PORT    GENESEE. 


91 


f  this  part 
rs  of  Irish, 
ithin  a  few 

American 


ises, 


11 


10 


2^ 


7 

'  7 

ny  and  the 
ate  to  Mon- 

>NTREAL, 

hroiigh  the 
to  make  so 
to  Buffalo, 
line  of  the 
and  Lake 
lany,  how- 
Irect   route, 
Ike  Ontario, 
iagara   to 
lern  shore, 
he  British 
ourse  very 
boundary 
sually  out 
There  are 
ore.     The 


most  important  are  the  cliffs  of  Torento,  the  Devil's 
Nose,  and  the  Fifty  Mile  Hill. 

The  steamboats  go  to  York  in  about  4i  hours;- 
stop  at  Kingston*  in  about  24  hours  from  Niagara, 
and  at  Prescott  in  twelve  hours  more  ;  thence 
stage  coach  to  Cornwall ;  whence  a  steamboat,  in 
five  hours,  brings  you  to  the  foot  of  Lake  St. 
Francis.  A  steamboat  of  69  horse  power  was 
built  in  1827  to  pass  the  rapids  at  Coteau  du  Lac, 
and  to  take  passengers  to  the  village  of  the  Cedars, 
nine  miles  further  than  heretofore  by  water.  From 
the  Cedars  to  the  cascade  is  in  stage  coaches,  about 
16  miles.  Thence  a  steamboat  goes  in  4  hours  to 
Lachine ;  and  thence  to  Montreal  a  stage  coach, 
which  stops  at  the  Exchange  Coffee  House. 

Port  Genesee^  72  miles,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Genesee  River,  is  a  port  of  entry  and  delivery. 
Here  are  a  Custom-house,  and  the  village  of  Char- 
lotte, in  Monroe  county.  This  river  rises  in  Penn- 
sylvania, and  runs  a  gently  winding  course  about 
125  miles  in  the  state  of  New-York.  It  is  naviga- 
ble only  four  miles  from  its  mouth,  to  Carthage, 
where  the  banks  are  high,  rocky  and  perpendicular; 
and  there  is  a  fine  fall  (104  feet,  including  the  ra- 
pids, &.C.)  about  half  a  mile  above.  Stage  coaches 
are  in  waiting  for  Rochester,  six  miles.  See  Car- 
thage j  page  66. 

Great  Sodus  Bay,  35  m.  Here  are  three  bays 
in  succession ;  Sodus,  East,  and  Port  Bays.  There 
are  three  Islands,  and  Port  Glasgow  is  at  the  head 
of  the  bay,  only  10^  miles  from  Clyde,  on  the  ca- 
nal, with  a  good  road  to  it. 

*  At  Kingston,  ({J.  C)  is  to  be  seen  theCataraqui  Fridge  and  the  canal, 
botwecu  Luko  Ontario  ail  J  tlie  Ottawa  River. 


m 

i 


92 


PORT    OSWEGO. 


Oswego,  28  m.  This  village  is  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  Oswego  River,  and  has  a  good  harbor, 
with  ten  feet  water.  Navigation  on  this  river  end- 
ed half  a  mile  above,  except  for  boats,  which  went 
12  miles  further. 

The  Oswego  Canal  was  completed  in  1828.  It 
joins  the  Erie  canal  at  Salina,  and  will  afford  an 
interesting  excursion  either  way.  From  the  head 
of  the  falls  to  the  village,  it  leads  along  the  river's 
bank,  preserving  the  elevated  level  almost  to  the 
brow  of  the  hill  over  the  Lake,  and  then  descends 
by  locks.  For  the  distance  of  a  mile  the  interval 
between  the  canal  and  the  river  affords  the  most 
advantageous  situations  for  manufactories  of  va- 
rious descriptions.  Lake  vessels  can  lie  on  one 
side  of  the  manufactories  and  canal  boats  on  the 
other ;  and  Congress  have  appropriated  ^35,000 
for  protecting  the  harbor  with  piers.  The  lake  is 
70  miles  wide  opposite  Oswego. 

Fort  Oswego,  so  famous  in  the  history  of  the 
French  and  Revolutionary  wars,  stands  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river.  While  this  pust  was  held 
alternately  by  the  French  and  English,  they  could 
command  a  great  part  of  the  trade  with  the  Five 
Nations  of  Indians,  who  inhabited  the  country 
with  which  it  communicated. 

Fort  Oswego  is  elevated  only  about  50  feet  from 
the  level  of  the  water  ;  and  being  overlooked  by 
the  eminence  on  which  Fort  Ontario  was  afterward 
erected,  was  fit  only  for  a  defence  in  early  times. 
A  trading  house  was  built  here  in  1722,  and  a  fort 
five  years  after.  This  was  extended  in  the  begin- 
ning of  the  French  war  of  1755,  when  Fort  Ontario 
was  built.     In  the  following  year,  General  Mont- 


i 


I ' 


CAPE   VINCENT. 


98 


ed  at  the 
d  barbur, 
river  end- 
hicb  went 

1828.     It 
afford   an 
[1  tbe  bead 
tbe  river's 
lost  to  tbe 
[1  descends 
he  interval 
s  the  most 
ries  of  va- 
lie  on  one 
)ats  on   tbe 
ed  $35,000 
The  lake  is 

ory  of  tbe 
ids  on  tbe 
it  was  held 
tbey  could 
tbe  Five 
le   country 

feet  from 
[looked  by 
afterward 
irly  times, 
and  a  fort 
I  tbe  begin- 
>rt  Ontario 
;ral  Mont- 


calm came  from  Canada,  and  beseiged  tbe  fortresses 
with  3000  troops,  and  two  vessels.  Fort  Ontario 
was  evacuated  after  one  attack  ;  and  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  August  l4th.  Fort  Oswego  surrendered  to 
tbe  French,  with  a  large  quantity  of  stores,  brought 
at  great  expense  through  the  wilderness,  and  21 
cannon,  14  mortars,  &c.  also  two  sloops,  and  about 
200  boats.  The  captors,  however,  did  not  think 
proper  to  bold  the  position,  but  ihjmediately  aban- 
doned it. 

Col.  St.  Legcr  attempted  to  approach  Albany 
by  this  route  in  1777,  in  o  der  to  co-operate  with 
Gen.  Burgoyne  ;  but  be  was  repulsed  at  Fort  Stan- 
wix,  by  Col.  Willet,  and  obliged  to  return. 

In  1814,  on  the  6ih  of  May,  tbe  British  attack- 
ed the  place,  and,  after  a  loss  of  about  lOO  men, 
got  possession  of  it,  but  evacuated  it  tbe  next  day. 

Sacketfs  Harbor,  40  m.  Settled  in  1801.  In 
the  late  war  it  became  an  important  naval  station, 
and  increased  very  rapidly.  It  is  8  miles  distant 
from  the  lake,  on  Hounsiow  Bay.  The  harbor 
is  divided  into  two  by  a  narrow  point,  and  offers 
great  advantages  for  ship  building.  On  tbe  shore 
are  seen  the  stone  Barracks,  which  enclose  about 
ten  acres  of  ground. 

Cape  Vincent,  20  m.  The  St.  Lawrence  is  hero 
divided  by  Grand  Island.  Kingston,  in  Upper 
Canada,  lies  opposite,  at  the  distance  of  11  miles. 

Morristown,  This  is  a  small  village,  10  miles 
from  Ogdensburgb.  The  river  is  a  little  more 
than  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  on  tbe  opposite  side  is 
Brockville.  There  is  a  number  of  rocky  islands 
in  the  St.  ^lawrence,  and  the  gentle  slope  of  the 

8 


1      v' 


F  I 


94 


ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  ALBANY. 


i  ^ 


r  1<' 


land  on  the  New-York  shore,  adds  a  great  degree 
of  beauty  to  the  scene. 

General  Wilkinson  embarked  at  this  place  in 
1813. 

Ogdenshurgh  is  the  end  of  the  navigation,  con- 
tains some  large  stores,  and  carries  on  considera- 
ble business.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river  is 
Prescott,  where  the  British  steamboat  stops.  The 
ruins  of  Fort  Oswegatchie,  or  Fort  Presentation, 
may  still  be  traced.  It  contained  only  a  bomb- 
proof, two  buildings  of  stone,  barracks,  &c. 

The  Thousand  Islands  are  a  most  beautiful  part 
of  the  navigation,  presenting  every  variety  of 
forms,  though  never  rising  to  any  great  elevation, 
like  the  islands  of  Lake  George, 

Gallop  Islands,  5  m.  Here  the  rapids  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  begin.  A  number  of  mills  will  be 
seen  at  different  places  on  the  shore.  On  Stony 
Island  was  a  fort  of  some  consequence,  which 
was  taken  by  General  Amherst  on  his  way  to 
Montreal,  in  the  year  1760. 

St.  Regis,  54  m.  The  Indian  tribe  which  bears 
this  name  have  a  reservation  of  land  here  II 
miles  by  3. 

Lachine,  53  m.     (See  Index.) 

Montreal,  9  m.     (See   do.) 

ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  ALBANY. 

Black  Rock  is  a  pleasant  villaa^e  situated  on  the 
margin  of  Niagara  River,  a  little  way  from  its 
hea(',  and  opposite  Squaw  Island,  at  the  mouth  of 
Lake  Erie.  It  was  burnt  by  the  British  during 
the  war  in  1814,  but  has  since  been  rebuilt  and 
increased  to  a  much  greater  size.  Black  Rock 
disputed  with  Buffalo  Ihe  pri\  ilege  of  having  the 


i  \i 


it  degree 

place  in 

ion,  con- 
onsidera- 

river  i» 
pg.  The 
sentation, 

a  bomb- 
&c. 

Uiful  part 
rariety  of 
elevation, 

ds  of  the 
Is  will  be 
On  Stony 
e,  which 
way    to 


BVFPALO. 


96 


-V, 


lich  bears 
here   11 


basin  of  the  canal  built  in  her  harbor,  and  at  last 
obtained  it.  A  pier  about  two  miles  in  length  was 
built  to  secure  the  boats  and  vessels  from  the 
waves  of  the  lake,  as  well  as  to  raise  the  v/ater 
for  the  supply  of  the  canal  to  the  Genesee  River. 
The  work,  however,  has  its  disadvantages:  in  the 
swiftness  of  the  current  in  the  river,  and  the  heap- 
ing up  of  the  ice  on  the  shores. 

BUFFALO,  3  miles  from  Black  Rock. 

The  situation  of  this  village  is  remarkably  con- 
venient and  agreeable,  rising  from  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  lake.  The  principal  street  runs 
along  the  ridge  of  the  hill,  looking  out  upon  Lake 
Erie  to  the  horizon,  and  is  ornamented  with  seve- 
ral fine  blocks  of  brick  stores  and  handsome  dwel- 
ling-houses, together  with  several  public  buildings, 
all  erected  since  the  burning  of  the  village  by  the 
British  in  1814,  as  well  as  the  buildings  in  the 
other  streets,  which  are  fast  increasing  every  year. 
In  April  1814,  only  one  house  was  standing  in  the 
village,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  principal  street. 
In  the  middle  of  the  town  is  a  public  square,  or- 
namented with  public  edifices.  A  walk  has  also 
been  laid  out  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  towards  the 
lake.  This  is  called  the  Terrace,  and  affords  a 
charming  view  upon  the  lake,  the  harbor,  and  the 
canal,  to  Black  Roik. 

The  harbor  of  Buffalo  is  singularly  fitted  by 
nature  for  the  junction  of  the  two  kinds  of  navi- 
gation which  are  here  brought  together ;  the  en- 
trance from  the  lake  being  sheltered  by  the  point 
on  which  the  light-house  is  erected,  and  the  two 
small  rivers  which  here  unite  their  waters,  afford- 
ing every  convenience  for  landing  and  reshipping 


96 


ROUTE    FROM   NIAGARA   TO    ALBANY. 


i 


li 


i ! 


I: 


l'|: 


goods.  The  shores  are  very  bold,  and  they  are 
connected  by  a  natural  channel,  which  serves  the 
purposes  of  a  basin,  as  well  as  of  an  easy  com- 
munication ;  and  as  the  canal  to  Black  Rock  com- 
mences close  by  it,  the  inland  transportation  be- 
gins without  more  ado. 

The  water  of  the  Creek  is  brought  into  the  vil- 
lage from  above  the  falls,  by  a  canal  3  miles  long, 
for  machinery.     Pop.  in  1830,  8668. 

About  half  a  mile  from  Buffalo,  the  workmen 
in  digging  the  canal,  hit  upon  a  bed  of  old  half- 
decayed  trees,  which  was  dug  into  to  the  depth 
of  six  feet,  and  extended  about  half  a  mile.  Many 
branches  and  logs  were  discovered,  which  preser- 
ved all  the  grain  of  the  wood  ;  but  the  greater 
part  was  a  black  mass  of  matter,  which,  on  being 
dried,  burned  with  greater  readiness.  In  some 
places,  ashes  and  coals  were  found  ;  and  some  of 
the  logs  appeared  to  have  been  washed  and  rolled 
by  the  water  of  the  lake  before  they  were  buried. 

[For  t\:3  voyage  up  Lake  Erie  and  travelling  in 
the  West,  see  the  "  Western  Traveller^^  at  the 
end  of  this  volume.] 

Ancient  Fortifications.  On  Buffalo  Creek, 
and  towards  Genesee  River  also,  are  several  large 
and  interesting  remnants  of  ancient  fortifications; 
but  as  they  lie  off  the  road,  few  travellers  will  visit 
them.  They  appear  t(3  form  part  of  a  great  chain 
of  defensive  works  extending  frjm  the  eastern 
part  of  Lake  Ontario,  along  that  lake  a'  d  Erie, 
down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers  to  Mexico. 
This  icJ  the  opinion  of  Mr.  Atwater,  of  Circleville, 
Ohio,  who  has  published  some  very  interesting 
details,  drawings,  &c.  connected  with  them,  in  his 


i 


FROM    BUFFALO   TO   CANANDAtGtA. 


they  arc 
jrves  the 
isy  com- 
ock  cotn- 
ation  be- 

o  the  vil- 
iles  long, 

workmen 
old  half- 
;he  depth 
e.     Many 
ch  preser- 
e    greater 
,  on  being 
In  some 
some  of 
ind  rolled 
re  buried, 
veiling  in 
'"  at  the 

llo  Creek, 
eral large 
[fications ; 
will  visit 
•eat  chain 
eastern 
|a'  d  Erie, 
Mexico, 
ircleville, 
^teresting 
\m,  in  his 


97 


I. 

I 


**  Archaeologia  Americana."  A  line  of  old  forts 
extends  from  Cataraiigus  Creek,  50  miles,  along 
the  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  to  the  line  of  Pennsylva- 
nia. They  are  on  the  borders  of  creeks  and  old 
bays,  although  now  from  two  to  five  miles  distant 
from  the  lake,  which  is  supposed  to  have  retired 
that  distance  since  they  were  built.  Another  sim- 
ilar line  is  said  to  exist  in  the  rear  of  them,  on 
another  parallel  elevation. 

Seneca  Castle, — The  Seneca  nation  possess  a 
large  and  valuable  tract  of  land  adjoining  Buffalo, 
on  the  east,  and  they  have  two  villages  three  and 
five  miles  on  the  road.  The  Senecas  are  the  west- 
ernmost tribe  in  the  confederacy  of  the  Five  Na- 
tions, and  held  a  conspicuous  rank  in  their  history. 
They  were  formerly  considered  the  most  nume- 
rous and  powerful  tribe,  and  preserved  this  supe- 
riority until  the  fatal  defeat  they  received  from 
General  Schuyler,  in  1778. 

Besides  the  land  they  possess,  which  is  remark- 
able for  its  fertility,  the  nation  are  in  possession 
of  a  large  sum  in  the  United  States'  Bank  stock, 
the  dividend  for  which  they  receive  annually. 

The  traveller  who  visits  them  will  observe  sev- 
eral farms  under  a  degree  of  cultivation,  and  may 
meet  with  individuals  who  conform  pretty  nearly 
to  the  English  style  of  dress,  and  have  introduced 
some  of  our  customs  into  their  houses.  The 
greater  part  of  them,  however,  speak  no  language 
but  Indian.  They  have  a  christian  church  with  a 
Missionary. 
Stage  Road  from  Buffalo  to  Canandaigua. 

The  first  few  miles  of  this  road  present  very 
little  interest. 

8* 


'■I 


tiiii, 


i! 


w 


.'4 


H 


i 


i? 


iii 


kn 


98 


ROi;  rE    FROM    NIAGARA   TO    ALBANY. 


f  I 


h: 


Batavia,  40  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  a  very  hand- 
come  village,  and  contains  the  residence  of  the 
present  and  former  agents  of  the  Holland  Land 
Company,  as  well  as  the  county  buildings.  Stage 
coaches   run  from  Batavia  to  Rochester, 

Leroy,  10  miles. 

[Springs.  In  Avon,  2J  miles  from  the  road 
through  that  village,  are  8  or  10  springs,  where 
are  small  boarding  houses.] 

The  Wadsworth  Farm^  at  Geneseo,  contains 
about  4000  acres,  about  1700  of  which  are  rich 
alluvial  land  on  the  banks  of  the  Genesee  river. 
Various  branches  of  agriculture  have  been  tried 
on  this  fertile  tract  of  country  ;  but  the  raising  of 
sheep  has  been  found  the  most  profitable,  and  the 
farm  has  been  almost  entirely  converted  into  mow- 
ing fields  and  pastures.  The  number  of  sheep, 
in  1827,  was  computed  at  13,000.  The  residence 
of  the  proprietor  is  in  a  fine  and  spacious  build- 
ing, in  a  commanding  situation  ;  and  the  whole 
aspect  of  the  farm  indicates  the  good  order  and 
method  with  which  it  is  conducted. 

The  Genesee  meadows  were  formerly  the  resi- 
dence of  a  large  tribe  of  Indians  of  the  Seneca 
nation;  and  when  Gen.  Sullivan  reached  this 
place,  in  his  march  through  the  country,  he  found 
and  burnt  a  village  of  120  log  houses,  on  the  se- 
cond bank,  which  had  been  deserted  at  his  ap- 
proach. 

The  remains  of  a  mammoth  were  dug  up  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  village  of  Geneseo  in  J  825. 
There  were  8  teeth  and  grinders,  parts  of  a  tusk, 
«  thigh  bone  3  feet  long,   the  lower  bone  of  the 


1 


BURNING    SPRINGS. 


90 


T  hand- 

3  of  the 

id  Land 

Stage 


[le  road 
,  where 

contains 
are  rich 
ee  river, 
en    tried 
aising  of 
,  and  the 
ito  raow- 
>f  sheep, 
residence 
LIS  build- 
le  whole 
der  and 

the  resi- 
Seneca 
:hed  this 
Ihe  found 
the  se- 
his  ap- 

up  about 
in  1825. 
If  a  tusk, 
le  of  the 


leaf  3  feet  6  inches,  &c.  They  lay  between  strata 
of  vegetable  niouhl  and  sand. 

West  Bloomjield,  beyond  the  Genesee  river,  is 
one  of  the  finest  agricultural  townships  in  the 
state,  and  presents  a  succession  of  beautiful  farms, 
tilled  with  care  and  yielding  the  finest  crops. 
Fruit  thrives  remarkably  well  in  all  this  western 
country,  as  the  slightest  attention  to  the  orchards 
will  sufliciently  prove.  The  black  apple  is  a  spe- 
cies of  fruit  which  has  been  said  to  be  peculiar  to 
this  region. 

East  Bloomfield  is  the  next  village ;  and  the 
general  remarks  just  made,  may  with  justice  be 
applied  to  this  place  also. 

CANANDAIGUA.  This  is  one  of  the  finest 
western  towns,  and  its  principal  street  runs  along 
the  ridge  of  a  commanding  hill,  rising  from  the 
north  end  of  Canandaigua  Lake,  with  an  acade- 
my, and  many  handsome  houses.  The  road,  in 
passing  Canandaigua  Lake,  commands  a  finer  view 
than  on  any  of  the  other  lakes  it  passes,  except 
Skeneateles.  The  banks  are  high  and  variegated, 
and  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  rise  to 
an  imposing  height,  and  add  a  great  degree  of 
beauty  to  the  scene.  A  number  of  gentlemen's 
seats  are  seen  along  the  western  bank;  and  a  little 
way  off  in  the  lake  on  the  same  side,  is  a  small 
rocky  island,  where  the  Seneca  Indians  carried  all 
their  women,  children,  and  old  men,  when  Gen. 
Sullivan  appeared  against  them. 

BURNLNG  SPRINGS.  Springs  of  water, 
charged  with  inflammable  gas,  are  quite  common 
in  Bristol,  Middlesex,  and  Canandaigua. 

The  gas  from  the  former  rises  through  fissures 


100 


ROUTE   FROM    NIAGARA   TO   ALBANY. 


M 


ft 


ill 


f '! 


! 

I 

1 

! 
t 

i 

i 

j 
■      ( 

1 

■ : 

of  the  slate,  from  both  the  margin  and  the  bed  of 
a  brook.  They  form  little  hillocks  of  a  few  feet 
in  diameter,  and  a  few  inches  high,  of  a  dark  bitu- 
minous mould.  The  gas  will  burn  with  a  steady 
flame.  In  winter  they  form  openings  through  the 
enow,  and  being  set  on  fire,  exhibit  a  steady  and 
lively  flame  in  contact  with  nothing  but  snow.  In 
very  cold  weather,  it  is  said,  tubes  of  ice  are  form- 
ed round  these  currents  of  gas,  (probably  from 
the  freezing  of  the  water  contained  in  it,)  to  the 
height  of  two  or  three  feet,  and  when  lighted  in  a 
still  evening,  presenting  an  appearance  even  more 
beautiful  than  the  former. 

From  a  pit  which  was  sunk  in  one  of  the  hil- 
locks, the  gas  was  once  conducted  through  bored 
logs,  to  the  kitchen  of  a  dwelling. 

The  road  between  Canandaigua  and  Geneva 
gradually  rises  by  large  natural  terraces,  or  steps, 
for  about  half  the  distance,  and  descends  in  the 
same  manner  on  the  other  side  to  Seneca  Lake. 
These  terraces,  appear  to  have  been  formed  by 
those  strong  currents  of  water  of  which  geologists 
speak,  which  at  some  ancient  period  of  time  have 
evidently  passed  over  many  tracts  of  country  in 
clflferent  parts  of  the  world.  The'  ridges  and 
channels  thus  formed  here  stretch  north  and  south, 
corresponding  both  in  form  and  direction  with  the 
numerous  lakes  which  are  found  in  this  part  of  the 
state.  Several  ancient  fortifications  have  been 
traced  here.  From  the  middle  ridge  the  view  is 
extensive. 

GENEVA. 

This  town  occupies  a  charming  situation  at  the 
foot  of  Seneca  Lake,  and  for  a  mile  along  its 


Dia    STREAM    POINT. 


101 


bed  of 
}W   feet 
rk  bitu- 
i  steady 
)ugh  the 
idy  and 
ow.    In 
re  form- 
>ly  from 
,)  to  the 
hted  in  a 
ren  more 

:  the  hil- 
igh  bored 

I   Geneva 
or  steps, 

3s  in  the 

ica  Lake. 

jrmed  by 
eologists 
ime  have 
untry  in 

jdges  and 
nd  south, 
with  the 
art  of  the 
ave  been 
e  view  is 


lion  at  the 
along  its 


western  bank,  which  rises  to  a  considerable  eleva- 
tion above  the  surface,  nnd  aflords  room  for  a 
broad  and  level  street.  The  huihiinirs  in  this  vil- 
lage  are  remarkably  neat  and  handsome. 

Seneca  Lake  is  35  niiles  long,  and  about  3  or  4 
wide.  Its  depth  is  very  grea*,  and  the  water  clear 
and  very  cold.  There  is  a  remarkable  pheno- 
menon long  observed  by  those  who  reside  near 
it,  which  has  never  been  satisfactorily  accounted 
for.  The  water  has  a  regular  rise  and  fail  every 
seven  years. 

The  Chemung"  Canal  extends  from  the  head  wa- 
ters of  this  lake  to  the  Chemung  river,  with  a 
feeder. 

A  college  has  lately  been  instituted  in  this  place. 
The  building  is  of  stone,  with  26  rooms  for  stu- 
dents, a  chapel,  and  library.  It  is  warmed  only 
by  stoves. 

The  steamboat  Seneca  Chief,  runs  daily  to  Jef- 
fersonville,  (at  the  head  of  the  lake,)  and  back 
again,  offering  the  traveller  an  agreeable  excur- 
sion. 

Dresden  and  Ovid,  12  miles  from  Geneva,  are 
opposite  each  other.  The  former  stands  at  the 
outlet  of  Crooked  Lake.  The  Penyan  descends 
nearly  400  feet,  affording  excellent  mill  seats.       * 

Starkie^s  Point  is  6  J  miles  south  of  Rapelyea's 
Ferry.  The  shore  is  there  very  bold,  so  that  the 
steamboat  can  pass  within  a  few  feet  of  the  land. 
Much  lumber  is  exported  from  this  place,  brought 
from  Eddystown,  which  is  a  mile  inland. 

Big  Stream  Point,  4  miles.  Here  is  a  fall  in  a 
tributary  of  this  beautiful  lake,  of  135  feet,  by 
which  several  mills  are  supplied. 


f  ii 


'   i 


« 


,1  i- 

!f  ■ 

.1    .   ■ 

■jj  .11 


i 


102 


ROUTE    PROM   NIAGARA   TO    ALBANY. 


The  eastern  shore  is  pronerally  handsomely  eiilti- 
vatccJ ;  but  near  thc^  liend  of  the  lake,  on  the  west- 
ern side,  about  15  nuU*s  of  the  shore  is  covered 
with  forest.  The  hind  rises,  and  becomes  rough 
and  hilly. 

Hectares  Falls,  .3  miles  from  the  lake,  arc  150 
feet  in  height,  and  sui)^)ly  several  mills.  Jeffcr- 
sonville  and  Havana  are  two  villages  at  the  head 
of  the  lake. 

[Travelling  southward  from  Geneva,  A  linn 
of  stage  coaelies  goes,  in  connexion  with  the  steam- 
boat, from  Geneva,  via  Bath,  Painted  Post,  Law- 
renceville,  Willardsburg,  Canal  Port  to  Trout 
Run,  and  via  Ehnira  and  Troy  to  Trout  Run,  and 
daily,  (except  Sundays,)  from  Trout  Run  through 
Williamsport,  Pennsborough,  Milton,  Northum- 
berland, 8unbury,  Selinsgrove,  Liverpool  to  Har- 
risburg.  From  llarrisburg  a  line  runs  every  day 
through  to  Philadelphia — and  one  daily,  (except 
Sundays,)  to  Baltimore  and  Washington  City — 
through  in  jive  days.  Returns  in  the  same  way. 
At  Northumberland  it  intersects  a  line  thnt  runs 
three  times  a  week  to  Wilkesbarre :  at  Williams- 
port,  a  line  that  runs  to  Bellefonte,  Alexandria, 
and  intersects  the  Pittsburg  line  :  at  Elmira  it  in- 
tersects a  line  nmning  to  Ithaca,  Owego  and  Mont- 
rose :  at  Bath,  a  line  to  Angelica  and  Olean  Point, 
and  one  to  Dansville,  Gcneseo,  Rochester,  Buf- 
falo, and  Niagara  Falls,  At  Geneva,  this  line  in- 
tersects 4  daily  lines  running  east  and  west,  and 
also  3  daily  lines  running  north  to  the  Erie  Canal, 

The  journey  from  Geneva  or  Rochester  to  Bal- 
timore, is  performed  by  this  line  in  five  days,  by 
daylight,   passing  through   a  fine,   healthy,   and 


V. 


CAYUGA    LAKK. 


103 


i(»ly  ciilti- 
thc  wcst- 
;  covered 
ics  rough 

;,  arc  160 

I.     JcfTcr- 

the  head 

t.     A  lin'> 
the  steam- 
V)st,  Law- 
to   Trout 
tRun,  and 
in  through 
Northum- 
►ol  to  Har- 
every  day 
y,   (except 
on  City — 
same  way. 
that  runs 
Williams- 
lexandria, 
ira  it  in- 
and  Mont- 
an  Point, 
ter,    Buf- 
is  line  in- 
iwest,  and 
ie  Canal. 
er  to  Bal- 
days,  by 
Ithy,  and 


highly  cultivated  country,  travrllinp;  upwards  of 
100  niiK;s  on  the  Ixauliiiil  hunUs  ot  the  Susque- 
luinnahy  and  about  .00  miles  on  the  bank  of  the 
Pennsylvania  canal.] 

A  stage  coach  runs  from  Geneva  up  the  east 
side  of  the  lake,  and  then  crosses  to  the  head  of 
Cayuga  lake,  to  the  vilhicre  vA'  Ithaca;  hut  the 
road  is  not  interesting,  and  the  more  agreeable 
mode  of  reaching  that  viHage  is  by  taking  the 
steamboat  at  Cayuga  bridge,  14  miles  from  Ocnc- 
va,  on  the  great  nuiil  route. 

The  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Canal,  has  opened 
boat  navitration  between  these  hikes  and  the  Erie 
Canal.  It  passes  through  Waterloo,  from  Geneva 
down  the  valley  of  Seneca  River  to  Montezuma, 
on  the  Erie  canal.  It  is  20  miles  and  21  chains 
in  length,  of  which  ten  miles  is  an  independent 
canal,  and  the  remainder  a  slack  water  navigation. 
It  has  7  locks,  being  73J-  feet  lockage,  10  bridges, 
5  safety  gates,  5  dams,  ()  culverts,  17  miles  of 
fence,  3  lock  houses,  and  1  collector's  office. 

Cayuga  Lake  is  40  miles  in  length,  and  gene- 
rally about  2  in  breadth.  A  fine  bridge  is  built 
across  it  near  the  northern  end,  where  it  is  a  mile 
wide.  Steamboats  ply  between  Cayuga  bridge 
and  Ithaca,  at  the  head  of  the  lake  ;  which  is  one 
of  the  pleasantest  excursions  in  this  part  of  the 
state.  It  also  connects  several  lines  of  stage 
coaches,  which  the  traveller  will  do  well  to  notice 
if  he  wishes  to  go  to  Catskill,  Newburg,  New- 
York  or  New-Jersey,  by  the  most  direct  routes. 

The  price  of  a  passage  in  the  steamboat  is  one 
dollar,  A  little  before  arriving  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  a  beautiful  waterfall  is  fjcen  on  the  left  hand, 


m 


il:t!  ■!( 


!  I 


ill!' 


104 


ROUTE    PROM    NIAGARA    TO    ALBANY. 


where  a  stream  flows  over  a  precipice  into  a  deep 
glen,  turning  several  valuable  mills  in  its  course. 
The  landing  place  is  about  three  miles  from  the 
village  of  Ithaca,  but  lumber  boats  can  pass  the 
bar  at  the  mouth  oi  the  inlet,  and  proceed  up  to 
the  street. 

The  village  of  Ithaca  is  neat  and  flourishing. 
Here  centre  three  roads  to  Catskill,  Newburg,  and 
New-York,  The  first  leads  nearly  in  a  direct  line 
to  the  Hudson  River,  the  second  passes  the  Great 
Bend  of  the  Delaware,  and  the  third  furnishes 
daily  the  shortest  route  to  New-York. 

The  Cascade,  about  3  miles  from  the  village,  is 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  that  can  be  imagined. 
The  Fall  river  descends  438  feet  in  a  mile.  The 
Great  Fall  is  116  feet.  The  other  falls  in  this 
vicinity  are  the  Cascadilla,  Tauqkanic,  (262  feet,) 
Six  Mile  creek.  Buttermilk,  &c. 

Ithaca  and  Owe g-o  Railroad,  Thelegis:lature, 
in  1828,  passed  an  act  authorising  the  construction 
of  a  railroad  from  this  place  to  the  Susquehannah 
river  at  Owego,     The  distance  is  about  SO  miles. 

Auburn  is  another  beautiful  village,  but  is  un- 
fortunately placed  at  some  distance  from  the  lake, 
and  therefore  is  deprived  of  the  picturesque  char- 
acter which  it  might  have  enjoyed.  There  is  a 
Theological  Seminary  in  Auburn,  which  has  a 
good  number  of  students. 

The  State  Prison  at  Auburn,  originally  mana- 
ged by  Mr.  Lynds,  on  his  system,  so  excellent,  so 
celebrated,  and  with  remarkable  success,  merits 
particular  notice. 

The  old  Auburn  prison  was  built  in  1817,  and 
cost  about  ^300,000 ;  it  is   constructed  upon  the 


\.NY. 


STATE    PRISON. 


105 


into  a  deep 
I  its  course. 
s  from  the 
in  pass  the 
3ceed  up  to 

flourishing. 

^wburg',  and 

a  direct  line 

es  the  Great 

rd    furnishes 

• 

he  village,  is 
be  imagined. 
I  mile.  The 
r  falls  in  this 
,c,  (262  feet,) 

elegi'-lature, 
construction 
squehannah 
out  30  miles, 
but  is  un- 
rom  the  lake, 
resque  char- 
There  is  a 
which   has  a 

inally  mana- 
excellent,  so 
;cess,    merits 

in  1817,  and 
ed  upon  the 


plan  of  a  hollow  square,  inclosed  by  a  wall  of 
2000  feet  in  extent,  being  601)  feet  on  each  side, 
and,  for  the  most  part,  35  feet  in  height.  The 
north  wing  of  the  building  differs  very  much  in 
its  construction  from  any  building  of  the  kind,  and 
the  use  of  which  is  conceived  to  be  one  of  the 
greatest  improvements  in  prisons,  and  one  of  the 
best  aids  to  prison  discipline,  which  have  been 
any  where  made.  The  workshops  are  built  against 
the  inside  of  the  outer  wall,  fronting  towards  the 
yard,  from  which  every  shop  is  visible,  forming  a 
continued  range  of  940  feet.  With  such  altera- 
tions as  it  may  undergo,  it  can  be  made  to  hold 
1 100  convicts.  At  the  close  of  1829,  it  contained 
639. 

"The  new  building  contains  400  cells,  and  cov- 
ers only  2(»6  by  46  feet  of  ground.  There  are  5 
stories  of  cells,  each  containing  eighty  in  two  pa- 
rellel  lines,  divided  in  the  middle  by  a  wall  two 
feet  thick.  The  walls  between  the  cells  are  one 
foot  thick.  The  cells  are  7  feet  long,  7  high,  and 
3i  wide,  intended  to  receive  only  one  convict  in 
each.  Each  cell  has  a  ventilator  extending  to  the 
roof,  and  is  so  constructed  in  front,  that  the  pris- 
oners can  neither  converse  or  make  signs  to  each 
other.  The  area  around  the  cells  is  ten  feet  wide 
and  open  to  the  roof,  which  covers  the  galleiies 
of  the  several  stories.  Besides  the  moral  benefit 
arising  from  keeping  the  prisoners  separate,  it 
unites  th'  *  of  economy  and  security.  From  the 
construction  of  the  prison,  5  small  stoves,  6  large 
and  12  small  lamps,  all  out  of  reach  of  the  con- 
victs, afford  heat  and  light  to  556  cells;  and  one 
sentinel  is  sufiicieni  to  400  prisoners. 

9 


t 


14  I 


s\ 


f  ?■ 


!i  ll 


'.: 


f ' 

.  i 

^H 

I 
J! 

m 


iliili 


■11    ; 


106 


ROUTE    FROM    NIAGARA    TO    ALBANY. 


'I 


The  discipline  only  requires  to  be  seen  to  be 
duly  appreciated.  The  conduct  of  the  prisoners 
while  at  their  labor,  and  their  quietness  under  the 
privations  of  the  prison,  prove  that  the  discipline 
is  complete  and  effective ;  and  the  main  cause  of 
of  the  order  and  decorum  thus  observed,  is,  that 
in  all  matters  of  discipline,  there  is  but  one  head 
or  principal." 

Minute  observations  on  the  camparative  labor 
of  a  free  person  and  a  convict  shows  that  the  lat. 
ter  does  not  accomplish  as  much  in  a  day  as  the 
former.  In  this  prison,  the  great  system  of  reforma- 
tion in  discipline  commenced. 

The  pardoning  power  is  now  exercised  with 
great  caution  by  the  executive ;  for  perhaps  no 
circumstance  has  so  much  contributed  to  do  away 
the  terrors  of  punishment  as  the  facilities  afforded 
the  worst  part  of  our  species  in  obtaining  a  pardon. 

Ancient  Fortifications,  There  are  some  re- 
mains of  ancient  fortifications  in  the  vicinity  of 
this  place,  as  well  as  in  the  neighboring  towns  of 
Camillus,  Onondaga,  and  Pompey. 

FROM  AUBURN  TO  SYRACUSE. 
By  the  Canal  34  miles. 
(Stage  coach  to  Weed's  Basin,)  8  miles.  Jordan 
village,  in  Camillus  township, 6.  Canton,  (half- 
way village  between  Buffalo  and  Albany,  179 
miles  from  the  former,  and  183  from  the  latter,) 
6  miles.  Geddes  village,  (with  salt  works,)  12. 
Syracuse,  2. 

By  the  Road  28  miles,  Skeneateles,  8.  Marcel- 
lus,  6.     Onondaga,  10.     Syracuse,  4. 

Syracuse*  For  a  description  of  this  place,  as 
well  as  of  Salina,  the  Salt  Spring,  and  Salt 
Manufactories y  see  page  59. 


■a 

i 


lNY. 


SCHENECTADY    TO     UTICA. 


107 


::en  to  be 
prisoners 
under  the 
discipline 
1  cause  of 
,  is,  that 
one  head 

live  labor 
lat  the  lat. 
lay  as  the 
f  refornna- 

cised  with 

)erhaps  no 

o  do  away 

Bs  afforded 

a  pardon. 

soncie  re- 

icinity   of 

\g  towns  of 

rsE.     . 

IS.  Jordan 

[ton,  (half- 

»any,     179 

|he  latter,) 

orks,)  12. 

I.  Marcel- 
place,  as 
and   Salt 


The  routes  east  of  Syracuse,  both  by  the  canal 
and  by  the  road,  may  be  repeated  in  the  reversed 
order,  for  travellers  going  towards  Albany.  (For 
places  sec  Index,) 

FROM  SYRACUSE  TO  UTICA. 

By  the  Canal,  61  miles,  Manlius  Landing,*  9. 
Chitteningo  Creek,  8.  (A  curious  petrified  tree 
near  this  place,  a  few  steps  from  the  canal,  was 
found  with  many  of  its  branches.) 

C/anastota  village  and  basin,  8  miles.  Oneida 
creek,  5.  Wood  creek,  13.  Rome,  3.  Oriska- 
ny  village,  8.     Whitesborough,  3.     Utica,  4. 

By  the  Road  48  miles.  Derne,  3.  Manlius,  3. 
Sullivan,  9.  Vernon,  11.  Westmoreland,  6. 
New-Hartford,  7.     Utica,  h, 

FROM  UTICA  TO  SCHENECTADY. 
By  the  Canal,  79^  miles. 
Lock,  No.  53  (end  of  the  long  level,  which 

begins   westward  at  Salina,  and  extends 
to  this  place,  69J  miles  without  a  lock,)  9 
Bridge  over  the  Mohawk,  and  Herkimer 

village^, 5 

Little  Falls, 8 

Fall  Hill,  a  mountain  on  the  right,  518  feet 

higher   than  the   canal,  712  above   high 

water  in  the  Hudson  River,   and  about 

145  above  Lake  Erie.      ......  1 

Old  Mohawk  Castle,  5  Fort  Plain  9i.  Canajo- 
harie,  4.  Anthony's  Nose,t  5  miles.  Schoharie 
Creek,  11.  Amsterdam  Village,  (across  the  river,) 

*■  About  20  yards  from  the  canal,  Gypsum  (plaster  of  Paris)  is  obtained 
in  raasies  of  from  1  to  100  tons. 

t  This  scene  is  represented  in  the  plate,  from  this  side.  The  bluff  on  the 
right  is  Anthony's  Nose,  on  the  top  of  which  a  remarkable  cavern  opens, 
extending  further  down  than  it  has  ever  been  explored. 


p 

■  m 


108        ROUTE    FROM     NIAGARA    TO    ALBANY. 


ill 


lit!! 


i: 


t  'lint ' 


1 

4 


5.     Flint  Hill,  6.     Rotterdam  Flats,  8.     Schenec- 
tady, 3. 

Rail-Road  to  Albany,  15J-  miles. 
Rail' Road  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga, 
To  travellers  of  leisure  and  taste,  however,  the 
canal  boats  are  recommended  to  the  Mohawk 
bridge,  although  they  are  liable  to  many  delays 
at  the  numerous  locks  along  this  difficult  but  in- 
teresting part  of  the  canal. 

FROM  SCHENECTADY  TO  ALBANY. 
By  the  Canal^  28  J  miles, 
Alexander's  Bridge,  (on  the  turnpike  road 
to  Albany  and  Boston — an  interesting 

scene,)         4^^ 

Upper  Aqueduct,  (on  which  the  canal  cross- 
es the  Mohawk,)        , 

The  Young  Engineer,  a  rock  on  the  right 
so  called,  where  the  cutting  is  the  deepest 
on  the  whole  route,  viz.  32  feet,  ...    4 

Wat  Hoix  Gap,         5^ 

(A  natural  channel,  through  which  the  canal  is 
led  more  than  200  yards.     The  rocks  are  a  gray- 
wacke  slate.     In  the  river  is  the  Wat  Hoix  Rapid, 
which  the  Indians  called  the  Evil  Spirit,  and  some- 
times the  White  Horse.) 
Lower  Aqueduct,  1188  feet  long,  on  which 
the  canal  cro?»ses  the  Mohawk  again,  on 
24  stone  abutments  and   piers.  .     .     2^  miles. 
The  four  Locks,   8   feet  each,  and  Cohoes 

Falls, 2 

The  two  Locks,  9  feet  each,        ...       | 
The  three  Locks,  and  the  Cohoes  Bridge 

over  the  Mohawk, J 

(Hence  to  Waterford,  on  the  road  to  Ballston, 
Saratoga,  &c.  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half. 


I 


Y. 

Schenec- 


^ever,  the 

Mohawk 

ly  delays 

It  but  in- 

JANY. 


ad 

ss- 

.  i 

rbt 

est 


e  a  gray- 
ix  Rapid, 
nd  some- 

Ich 
•n 

2^  miles, 
les 
2 
a 

4 


t 

Ballston, 


DUNNlNG-StREfiT.  109 

Tlifi  Junction,   where  the  Northern  Canal 

from    Lake  Champlain  meets   the   Erie 

Canal        ^ 

West  Troy, 1 

A  good  horse  ferryboat  plies  below. 

United  States'  Arsenal, 1 

Albany,  6 

ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  THE  SPRINGS. 

WATERFORD.  This  village  is  situated  on 
the  western  side  of  the  Hudson,  across  which  the 
communication  is  convenient  by  means  of  the 
first  bridge  we  have  seen  over  this  river*  Lan- 
singburgh  stands  opposite,  and  is  a  place  of  con- 
siderable size.  The  streets  of  ^^'^aterford  are  wide, 
regular,  and  handsomely  buil*.  Some  of  the  pri- 
vate houses  are  re  r.^rkable  for  their  neatness. 

It  is  211  miles  to  Ballston  Springs,  and  24  to 
Saratoga, 

The  approach  to  the  village  from  the  south-west 
by  the  canal  and  the  road,  is  uncommonly  beauti" 
ful.  It  lies  quite  below  you,  with  a  little  meadow 
in  front,  bounded  by  the  canal  and  the  Hudson, 
its  white  houses  mingled  with  fine  trees,  and  Dia- 
mond Hill  rising  behind,  with  its  sides  half  culti* 
vated,  and  half  covered  with  woods. 
From  Waterford  to    the  Springs,  by  Me- 

ciianicville. 

Mechanicville  or  the  Borough,  81  miles  from 
Waterford.  Here  is  a  Cotton  Manufactory,  whence 
the  place  derives  its  former  name. 

Dunning-strect, — Here  is  a  little  village,  at 
which  the  road  turns  off  west  for  the  Springs* 
About  a  mile  south  of  it  we  cross  the  Northern 
canah 

9* 


'*  1 


m 


110 


ROUTE    TO   THE    SPRINGS. 


il '. 


[Stillwater  is  3  miles  above,  and  4  miles  beyond 
that  are  Bemis's  Heights.] 

Stillwater  takes  its  name  from  the  smo  thness 
and  quietness  of  the  Hudson,  which  there  ^.preads 
out  over  a  broad  surface,  and  hardly  shows  any 
appearance  of  a  current. 

The  reader  is  referred  to  the  Maps,  to  observe 
the  importance  of  the  tract  of  country  which  lies 
along  the  route  we  have  just  entered  upon.  From 
Canada  to  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain  there  is 
an  uninterrupted  water  communication,  by  which 
troops  and  every  thing  necessary  to  an  army  may 
be  transported  with  the  utmost  facility.  A  short 
land  carriage  reaches  Lake  George.  Wood  Creek, 
at  the  south  end  of  Champlain,  is  navigable  in 
boats  to  Fort  Anne,  which  is  only  9  miles  distant 
from  Fort  Edward,  on  Hudson  river,  whence  the 
navigation  is  open  to  New-York.  Here  have  con- 
sequently been  many  of  the  most  important  mili- 
tary operations  which  have  ever  been  carried  on 
in  the  United  States.  The  first  battle,  within  this 
region,  of  which  history  gives  any  account  was 
fought  between  the  French  and  the  Five  Nations 
of  Indians,  soon  after  the  settlement  of  Canada, 
when  the  latter  first  learned  the  terrible  effect  of 
gunpowder,  and  began  to  flee  from  the  approach 
of  civilization.  In  the  numerous  expeditions 
which  at  subsequent  periods  were  undertaken  by 
the  British  against  Canada,  this  route  was  taken 
in  the  attack,  and  not  unfrequently  in  the  retreat. 
The  important  events  of  the  war  of  1755  were 
almost  confined  to  this  region  ;  and  the  Revolu- 
tion and  the  last  war  with  England  produced 
scenes  which  will  be  touched  upon  in  their  pla- 
ces. 


BUROOYNE^S    EXPEDITION. 


Ill 


5  beyond 

0-  thness 
?  :.  pre  ads 
)vv3   any 

I  observe 
hich  lies 
.     From 
there  is 
)y  which 
rmy  may 
A  short 
►d  Creek, 
igable  in 
ss  distant 
lence  the 
lave  con- 
tant  mili- 
arried  on 
ithin  this 
lint    was 
Nations 
Canada, 
effect  of 
pproach 
peditions 
[taken  by 
as  taken 
retreat. 
55  were 
Revolu- 
roduced 
Iheir  pla- 


1 


BURGOYNE'S  EXPEDITION.  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne  was  appointed  Governor  of  Canada,  in 
1777,  to  succeed  Sir  Guy  Curlton.  He  arrived  at 
Quebec  in  May,  and  reached  Crown  Point  June 
20th.  Gen.  Phillips  was  sent  to  Ticonderoga 
with  the  British  right  wing;  and  the  outposts  and 
the  fort  were  successively  abandoned  by  the 
Americans.  The  news  of  the  evacuation  of  this 
place  was  a  most  disheartening  piece  of  intelligence 
to  the  country.  During  his  delay,  Gen.  Schuyler 
obstructed  the  channel  of  Wood  creek,  removed 
every  thing  valuable  from  the  country,  and  took 
the  stores  from  Fort  George  to  Fort  Edward  ; 
sending  for  regular  troops,  and  calling  for  the  mi- 
litia of  the  neighboring  states,  both  which  were 
supplied.  Gen.  Arnold  and  Col.  Morgan  joined 
him  with  a  body  of  riflemen,  and  Gen.  Lincoln 
with  the  New-England  militia  ;  and  he  fell  back  to 
Saratoga  and  Stillwater. 

While  these  preparations  were  making  for  a 
general  engagement,  the  battle  of  Bennington  oc- 
curred. Being  in  want  of  provisions.  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne  had  despached  Lt.  Col.  Baum,  with  his  Hes- 
sians, to  seize  the  public  stores  at  Bennington.  He 
was  supported  by  Lt.  Col.  Brechman,  who  stopped 
at  Baten  Kill.  Brig.  Gt  n.  Stark,  with  the  New- 
Hampshire  troops,  joined  by  Col.  Warner,  attack- 
ed Col.  Baum  at  the  Wallomsack  river,  where 
they  were  encamped,  July  16th,  (1777,)  and  in 
two  hours  forced  their  works,  and  completely  de- 
feated them.  Col.  Warner  began  the  attack  on 
Col.  Brechman,  wounded  him  mortally,  took  him 
prisoner,  and  put  his  troops  to  flight. 

Two  hundred  and   twenty-six  of   the  British 


feii  n 


112 


ROUTE    TO    THE    SPRINGS. 


troops  were  killed  at  the  battle  of  Bennino^ton,  or 
rather  the  battle  of  Iloosac^  as  it  was  fouglit  in 
that  town.  Seven  hundred  soldiers  were  taken 
prisoners,  and  thirty-six  oflicers. 

To  return  to  the  principal  scene  of  action. 
Gen.  Gates  now  received  the  command  of  the 
American  troops,  which  had  been  greatly  reinforc- 
ed ;  and  marching  them  from  the  east  side  of  the 
Hudson  river,  opposite  the  Half  Moon,  to  Still- 
Water,  on  the  west  siile,  took  a  position  on  Bemis's 
Heights. 

BEMIS'S  HEIGHTS.  A  ridge  of  elevated 
ground,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river 
stretching  off  towards  the  north-Vv'est,  offered 
great  avantages  for  the  defence  of  the  road. 

Gen.  Gates^s  Camp  was  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  road  on  the  left,  and  his  quarters  were  in  a 
house  lately  standing.  The  space  between  the 
river  and  the  brow  of  the  hill  was  crossed  by  a 
deepintrenchment  defended  with  artillery,  and  al- 
most impracticable. 

The  American  Lines,  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
iong,  were  furnished  with  a  breastwork  of  logs, 
(the  hills  being  almost  entirely  a  forest,)  and  the 
left  terminated  opposite  the  enemy's  right.  From 
the  left  almost  to  the  centre,  the  ground  is  level, 
and  was  partly  cleared,  yet  much  encumbered 
with  fallen  and  girdled  trees.  An  opening,  left 
of  the  centre,  had  a  battery — thence  a  ravine  ran 
to  the  right. 

The  British  Lines  stretched  from  a  hill  opposite 
the   American  left,    in  a  straight  hne  across   the 
meadow  to  the  Hudson  river. 
The   Northern  or   Champlain  canal,   and  the 


BUROOYNE  S    EXPEDITION. 


113 


ngton,  or 
ouj^ht  in 
re   taken 

:>f  action, 
id  of  the 
reinforc- 
le  of  the 
to  StilU 
n  Bemis's 

elevated 
the  river 
t,  ofTered 
^ad. 

mile  from 
were  in  a 
ween  the 
sed  by  a 
y,  and  al- 

of  a  mile 
:  of  logs, 
)  and  the 
t.  From 
d  is  level, 
cumbered 
ing,  left 
avine  ran 

opposite 
TOSS   the 

and  the 


coach  road,  now  cross  the  ground  occupied  by  the 
American  right,  a^id  soon  afterward  that  occupied 
by  the  British  lines. 

The  Battle  Ground  is  on  an  elevated  plain  about 
two  miles  above  General  Gates's  camp,  and  the 
same  distance  west  from  Smith's  tavern. 

The  most  severe  fighting  in  the  first  battle  was 
at  a  little  knoll,  in  a  field  on  the  south,  passing  two 
fences. 

Battle  of  Sept.  19th.  In  the  morning,  the 
enemy  beginning  to  ascend  the  hill  towards  the 
American  left,  Gen.  Gates  sent  Col.  Morgan  to 
oppose  them,  and  the  firing  began  about  noon. 
The  action  extended,  and  in  three  hours  was  gen- 
eral, and  continued  without  interruption  till  dark. 
The  American  troops  engaged  amounted  to  3o00; 
the  British  to  3  500. 

The  British  line  was  formed  on  an  eminence  in 
a  thin  pine  wood,  having  before  it  Freeman's  farm, 
an  oblong  field,  stretching  from  its  centre  towards 
its  right,  the  ground  in  front  sloping  gently  down 
to  the  verge  of  this  field,  which  was  bordered  on 
the  opposite  side  by  a  close  wood.  The  sangui- 
nary scene  lay  in  the  cleared  ground,  between  the 
eminence  occupied  by  the  enemy,  and  the  wood 
just  described.  The  fire  of  our  marksmen  from 
this  wood  was  too  deadly  to  be  withstood  by  the 
enemy  in  line,  and  when  they  gave  way  and  broke, 
our  men,  rushing  from  their  covert,  pursued  them 
to  the  eminence,  where,  having  their  flanks  pro- 
tected, they  rallied,  and,  charging  in  turn,  drove 
us  back  into  the  wood,  from  whence  a  dreadful 
fire  would  again  force  them  to  fall  back  ;  and  in 
this  manner  did  the  battle  fluctuate,  like  the  waves 


1 1 


V: 


\  ti 


i:-!^ 


II 


114 


ROUTE    TO     THE    SPRINGS. 


i'i! 


of  a  stormy  rfca,  witli  alternate  advantage  for  four 
hours,  without  one  moment's  intermission.  The 
British  artillery  fell  into  our  possession  at  every 
charge,  hut  we  could  neither  turn  the  pieces  upon 
the  enemy,  nor  hring  them  oil*;  the  wood  prevent- 
ed the  last,  and  the  want  of  a  match  the  first,  as 
the  linstock  was  invariably  carried  off,  and  the  ra- 
pidity of  the  transitions  did  not  allow  us  time  to 
provide  one.  The  slaughter  of  this  brigade  of  ar- 
tillerists was  remarkable,  the  ca[)tain  and  thirty- 
six  men  being  killed  or  wounded  out  of  forty- 
eight.  It  was  a  drawn  battle,  as  night  alone  ter- 
minated it;  the  British  army  keeping  its  ground  in 
rear  of  the  field  of  action,  and  our  corps,  when  they 
could  no  longer  distinguish  objects,  retiring  to 
their  own  camp. 

The  Interval  between  the  two  Battles,  from 
Sept.  I9th  till  Oct.  7th,  was  devoted  to  strength- 
ening their  fortifications,  and  by  Gen.  Gates  to 
collecting  also  large  reinforcements  of  militia. 
Gen.  Burgoyne  is  said  to  have  planned  an  attack 
on  the  20th  and  21  st  of  September,  but  fortunate- 
ly delayed  until  the  Americans  were  in  the  best 
situation  to  oppose  him.  Attacks  on  the  British 
picquets  took  place  almost  every  night,  and  they 
were  continually  harassed. 

Battle  of  October  8. — Gen.  Wilkinson  gives  the 
following  description  of  this  battle. 

"  The  enemy  were  formed  across  a  newly  culti- 
vated field,  their  grenadiers  with  several  field 
pieces  on  the  leti,  bordering  on  a  wood  and  a 
small  ravine;  their  light  infantry  on  the  right, 
covered  by  a  worm  fence  at  the  foot  of  the  hill 
thickly  covered  with  wood ;  their  centre  compos- 


115 


liURCOYiNE's     EXPF.DITION. 


3  for  four 
)n.     The 

at  every 
^ccs  upon 
1  prevent- 
le  first,  as 
11(1  the  ra- 
is  time  to 
a  tie  of  ar- 
lul  thirty- 

of  forty- 
alone  ter- 

<rround  in 
when  they 
retiring  to 

ties,   from 
^  strength- 
Gates  to 
of  militia, 
an  attack 
fortunate- 
i  the  best 
he  British 
and  they 

gives  the 

ewly  culti- 
I'eral  field 
od  and  a 
the  right, 
of  the  hill 
e  compos- 


ed of  Britisli  and  iicrman  battalions.  Col.  Mor- 
gan, i)r(»])os(Ml  to  inakc!  a  circuit  with  his  corps  on 
our  Iel"t,  and  under  cover  of  the  \\  ood  to  gain  the 
height  on  t!ie  right  of  the  enemy,  and  from  thence 
commence  his  attacii,  so  soon  as  our  lire  siiould 
be  opened  against  their  left. 

This  proi)osition  was  approved.  Poor's  brigade 
was  ordered  for  this  service,  and  the  attack  was 
commenced  on  the  Hank  and  front  of  the  British 
grenadiers,  by  the  New-Hampshire  and  New-York 
troops.  Morgan,  at  this  critical  moment,  attacked 
the  right  of  the  enemy  in  front  and  flank.  Dear- 
born, at  the  moment  wl:en  the  enemy's  light  in- 
fantry were  attempting  to  change  front,  pressed 
forward  with  ardor,  and  delivered  a  close  fire  ; 
then  leaped  the  fence,  shouted,  charged,  and  gal- 
lantly forced  them  to  retire  in  disorder;  yet,  hea- 
ded by  that  intrepid  soldier,  the  Earl  of  Balcarras, 
they  were  immediately  rallied  and  reformed  be- 
hind a  fence  in  rear  of  their  first  position  ;  but 
being  now  attacked  with  great  audacity  in  front 
and  flanks  by  superior  numbers,  resistance  became 
vain,  and  the  whole  line,  commanded  by  Bur- 
goyne  in  person,  gave  way  and  made  a  precipitate 
and  disorderly  retreat  to  his  camp,  leaving  two 
12,  and  six  o  pounders  on  the  field,  with  the  loss 
of  more  than  400  officers  and  men  killed,  wound- 
ed, and  captured,  and  among  them,  the  flower  of 
his  officers,  viz  : — Brigadier  General  Frazer,*  Ma- 
jor Ackland,  commanding  the  grenadiers,  Sir 
Francis  Clark,  his  first  aid-de-camp.  Major  Wil- 

*  General  Frazer  was  shot  in  the  meadow,  near  the  fence  by  the  road 
side,  just  south  of  the  !)hicksmith's  shop.  Tho  spot  ia  marked  by  th© 
third  tree  in  a  row  of  poplars. 


.  f^  r 


fi' 


k 


i-i 


mi 


r 


116 


ROUTE    TO    THE    M'UlNtiS. 


liams,  cominnndiiio-  oflicc  r  of  ibc  artillery.  Cap- 
tain Money,  deputy  fiuarlcr-riiasler-gi:ueral,  und 
many  oiliers. 

The  British  lost,  in  killed,  wonnded,  and  pris- 
oncrs»  about  GOO;  the  Americans  319.  The  Ger- 
man oilicers  said  they  had  never  bcTore  met  so 
vigorous  and  terrible  a  fire.  Several  American 
oilicers  who  walked  over  the  field  after  midnight, 
found  no  enemy  to  interrupt  them. 

General  Frazcr''s  Grave  is  on  the  hill  near  the 
Hudson,  a  little  west  of  Hmitirs.  At  his  own  re- 
quest, he  was  buried  in  the  great  redoubt,  the 
remains  of  which  are  plainly  visible. 

Oct.  8th,  fretjueiit  aliacks  were  made  on  Gen. 
Balcarras'  corps,  and  the  British  expected  a  gene- 
ral  action. 

General  Burgoyne^s  Retreat  commenced  that 
night  towards  Lake  George  ;  but  he  was  pursued 
and  intercepted  so  j)romptly,  that  he  was  obliged 
to  stop  and  take  a  position  at  Schuylersville,  near 
which  he  surrendered  ten  days  after  the  battle. 

Quarters  of  General  Burgoyne. —  Smith's  house 
now  stands  by  the  road  side,  but  it  then  was  at 
the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  about  200  yards  from  the 
river.  Tlie  cellar  is  still  to  be  seen,  in  a  field  a 
little  north  of  the  road  that  crosses  the  canal. 
Several  ladies  of  distinction  were  its  inmates  at 
the  time  when  the  British  troops  were  here,  being 
the  wives  of  some  of  its  principal  officers.  Among 
these  were  the  Baroness  Reidesel,  with  her  chil- 
dren, wife  of  General  Reidesel,  and  Lady  Harriet 
Ackland,  wife  of  Major  Ackland,  commander  of 
the  British  Grenadiers.  The  former  published  an 
account  of  what  she  saw  during  this   trying   and 


li 


cry,  Cap- 
leiul,   and 

and  pris- 

Thc  Ger- 

re  met  so 

American 

midnight, 

11  near  the 
IS  own  re- 
loubt,    the 

e  on  Gen. 
,ed  a  gene- 

Bnced   that 
as  pursued 
as  obliged 
Bville,  near 
e  battle, 
ith's  house 
en  was  at 
s  from  the 
n  a  field  a 
he    canal, 
nmates  at 
ere,  being 
Among 
her   chii- 
|ly  Harriet 
nander  of 
Iblished  an 
ying   and 


^« 


! 

a 

I'  Q 


i=-: 


t 

I       I 


m 


01 


BALLSTON. 


117 


dangerous  contest,  after  her   return   to  Europe. 
The  house  was  converted  into  an  hospital  during 
the  second  battle,  and  Gen.  Frazer  died  on  the  8th 
of  October  in  what  is  now  the  bar-room. 
BALLSTON  SPRINGS. 

This  village  is  situated  in  a  little  valley  sur- 
rounded by  hills,  which  has  the  aspect  of  having 
once  been  the  bed  of  a  small  lake.  The  high 
ground  enclosing  it,  gives  an  air  of  seclusion  to 
the  place,  at  the  same  time  that  it  furnishes  a  va- 
riety of  pleasant  scenery.  The  Kayderosseros 
brook  flows  through  the  valley,  and  the  Railroad, 
passing  near  the  Courthouse,  Academy,  &c.  de- 
scends the  hill,  and  goes  on  to  Saratoga, 

Sans  Souci  Hotel,  seen  in  descending  by  the 
railroad,  has  a  fine  piazza,  presents  a  front  of  156 
feet  long,  with  a  wing  extending  back  from  each 
end  150  feet,  all  of  them  three  stones  high,  and 
containing  lodgings  for  nearly  150  persons.  The 
dining  room  can  easily  accommodate  that  number, 
and  the  public  parlor  is  large,  airy,  and  pleasant, 
extending  to  the  ladiesV  private  parlor. 

On  reaching  the  low  ground,  the  railroad  pass- 
es several  of  the  Springs. 

The  Washington  Spring.  A  new  and  re- 
markable chalybeate  Spring  was  obtained,  in  1827, 
by  boring  237  feet  deep,  through  blue  slate  rock, 
near  the  Old  Spring.  It  has  a  tube  sunk  the 
whole  distance,  made  partly  of  iron  and  partly  of 
tin,  and  affords  a  most  delightful  sparkling  water, 
which  boils  over  the  top.  In  August  of  that  year, 
several  months  after  it  was  opened,  the  water  was 
forced  into  the  air  to  the  height  of  12  or  14  f^et, 
without  any  perceptible  cause,  in  a  constant  jet^ 

10 


;  w 


•; 

\fyr 


11 

i! 


118 


THE    SPRINGS. 


I!  ' 


m  I 


for  about  half  an  hour.  The  water  then  disap- 
peared, and  was  afterward  discovered  slowly  ri- 
sing, till  it  again  overflowed.  It  was  for  a  time 
flat  and  turbid  ;  but  soon  recovered  all  its  clear- 
ness, gaseous  pungency,  and  sparkling.  This 
spring  affords  some  of  the  finest  chalybeate  water 
in  the  United  States. 

The  Lafayette  Spring,  which  yields  a  fine  cha- 
lybeate water,  was  discovered  early  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1825.  It  is  supposed  by  many  to  be  in 
fact  identical  with  the  "  Old  Spring,"  being  dis- 
tant from  it  only  about  thirty  feet. 

The  Old  Spring,  which  is  in  the  middle  of  the 
street  opposite  Aldridge's,  was  the  first  discovered 
in  all  this  part  of  the  country.  It  is  said  that  the 
inhabitants  were  inducea  to  trust  to  its  peculiar 
virtues  by  the  example  of  the  deer  of  the  forest, 
which  had  resorted  to  it  in  such  numbers  as  to 
form  beaten  paths  from  every  direction  to  the 
spot.  In  1792  there  was  not  a  house  within  two 
or  three  miles  of  this  spot. 

The  Old  Spring  has  lost  much  of  its  original 
excellence,  which  appears  to  be  in  a  good  degree 
transferred  to  the  new  ones. 

The  Saline,  or  United  States  Spring,  is  near 
the  bathing  house  connected  with  the  Sans  Souci. 
It  contains  a  large  quantity  of  oxyde  of  iron,  to- 
gether with  glauber  and  other  salts,  so  that  it  is 
at  once  a  strong  saline,  and  chalybeate  water. 
The  iron  is  in  such  quantities  as  to  be  perceptible 
to  the  taste.  Its  effect  is  tonic,  and  it  favorably 
counteracts  the  debilitating  eflfect  of  the  salts. 

The  New  Spring  is  near  the  Sans  Souci  hotel. 
It  was  obtained  in  1827  by  boring  to  a  depth  of 


BALLSTON. 


119 


en  disap- 
lovvly  ri- 
or  a  time 
its  clear- 
r.  This 
ate  water 

,  fine  cha- 
the  sum- 
to  be  in 
being  dis- 

lle  of  the 
iscovered 
d  that  the 
\  peculiar 
he  forest, 
ers  as  to 
m  to  the 
thin   two 

original 
(d  degree 

is  near 
Ins  Souci. 
iron,  to- 
that  it  is 
ie  water. 
>rceptible 
favorably 
;alts. 
ici  hotel, 
lepth  of 


about  300  feet,  and  is  full  of  gas,  t  ■'ry  sparkling 
and  considered  both  saline  and  chal}  beate. 

The  neighboring  country  was  almost  a  perfect 
wilderness  at  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  war; 
for  the  natural  military  route  between  Canada  and 
the  United  States  lay  through  it,  and  the  Five  Na- 
tions of  Indians  were  so  near  on  the  western  side, 
and  were  so  frequently  passing  over  it  on  their  war 
parties,  that  few  white  men  were  willing  to  encoun- 
ter the  dangers  and  risks  to  which  such  a  residence 
must  necessarily  be  exposed. 

For  some  years,  the  only  place  where  visiters 
could  find  shelter  here,  was  in  a  log  house,  near  the 
Old  Spr;  g,  which  was  for  some  time  the  only  ob- 
ject of  notice.  The  Kayderosseros  was  raised  to 
an  unusual  height  by  a  flood  in  the  summer  of  1817, 
and  threw  its  current  into  a  new  channel.  Four 
springs  were  found  rising  side  by  side,  all  of  them 
within  a  space  of  about  twenty  feet  square,  and  of 
qualities  entirely  different.  One  resembled  in  some 
degree  the  Old  Spring,  but  contained  a  surplus  of 
carbonic  acid  gas,  and  sparkled  like  champaign  : 
the  next  contained  much  glauber  salts,  and  was 
somewhat  like  the  Congress  Spring  at  Saratoga  ; 
the  third  was  brine,  like  sea  water ;  and  the  fourth 
perfectly  fresh.  For  three  or  four  seasons  they  at- 
tracted all  visiters,  but  they  at  length  yielded  only 
fresh  water. 

There  is  a  Reading  Room  and  Circulating  Li- 
hrary  kept  at  the  store  of  Mr.  Comstock ;  and  a 
book  is  also  to  be  seen,  in  which  the  names  of  vis- 
iters arriving  at  the  principal  houses  are  daily  en- 
tered, for  the  information  of  others. 

The  Lover'*s  Leap,  is  a  precipice  of  60  or  70 
feet,  which  overhangs  the  Kayderosseros,  and  a 


n 


;  i 


^i, 


i  > 


M 

1 , '  I 


I': 
' '  1  7-. . 


120 


THE    SPRINGS. 


1 


(/  *"t 


romantic  and  secluded  little  valley,  at  the  distance 
of  about  half  a  mile  from  the  springs.  The  road 
leads  up  the  hill  beyond  Aldridge's,  and  through  a 
dark  pine  grove.  A  half  trodden  path  turns  off  at 
the  right,  and  conducts  to  the  precipice. 

Ballston  Lake  is  a  pretty  little  sheet  of  water 
about  four  miles  distant. 

Saratoga  Lake  is  much  larger,  more  accessible, 
and  more  beautiful,  and  is  supplied  with  accom- 
modations for  fishing  parlies.  The  distance  is  four 
and  *A  half  miles,  and  five  and  a  half  from  Sarato- 
ga Springs,  It  is  six  miles  from  Ballston  Spa  to 
the  south  end,  where  is  the  finest  v.  ew  of  it,  on  the 
way  to  the  battle  ground. 

Mr.  Simpson's  Farm  in  Galway,  is  11  miles  west 
from  Ballston  Springs,  on  a  high  ridge  of  land  ; 
the  farm  contains  800  acres,  360  of  which  are  cul- 
tivated, principally  for  grain  and  grass.  He  raises 
40  or  50  bushels  of  wheat  to  an  acre  by  late  plough- 
ing, about  three  inches  deep.  He  soaks  his  seed 
wheat  in  brine,  and  rolls  it  in  lime  to  preserve  it 
from  insects.  Other  seeds  he  rolls  in  plaster. 
He  has  raised  700  bushels  of  potatoes  to  an  acre. 
His  corn  is  planted  two  feet  apart  one  way,  and 
two  and  a  half  the  other.  His  fences  are  of  stone 
and  wood — a  low  stone  wall,  with  iimber  in  it,  to 
secure  the  parts  above  ground.  A  fence  of  two 
rails  is  thus  made  above  ;  the  rails  being  of  plank, 
about  four  inches  wide.  Of  this  kind  of  fence,  he 
has  on  his  farm  what  would  measure  15  miles. 
The  place  enjoys  so  fine  and  healthy  a  situation, 
and  the  inn  is  so  well  kept,  being  one  of  the  best 
in  this  part  of  the  country,  that  it  is  the  resort  of 
many  visiters  from  different  quarters,  who  frequent- 
ly spend  days  or  weeks  there.    The  charges  are 


I 


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The  road 
through  a 
irns  oiFat 

of  water 


iccessible, 
h  accom- 
nce  is  four 
m  Sarato- 
on  Spa  to 
it,  on  the 

niles  west 
I  of  land ; 
:h  arecul- 
He  raises 
e  plough- 

his  seed 
reserve  it 

plaster. 

an  acre, 
vay,   and 

of  stone 
r  in  it,  to 
e  of  two 
of  plank, 
fence,  he 
5  miles, 
situation, 

the  best 
resort  of 
requent- 
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SARATOGA, 


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more  moderate  than  at  the  Springs.  The  view  is 
commanding,  and  the  air  fine.  From  an  eminence 
west  of  the  house,  no  less  than  13  counties  may 
be  discovered.  The  church  is  half  a  mile  distant, 
and  the  road  from  Ballston  pretty  good. 

SARATOGA  SPRINGS 
are  7  miles  from  Ballston  Springs,  and  the  Rail 
road  affords  an  agreeable  and  rapid  conveyance. 
The  old  road  is  level  and  sandy.  The  new  road 
passes  over  higher  ground,  and  is  pleasanter  and 
harder,  although  somewhat  longer. 

The  railroad  cars  stop  at  the  United  States  Uoie). 
The  following  are  the  principal  hotels  in  the  village. 

On  reaching  the  brow  of  a  hill  which  descends 
into  the  village,  the  street  lies  in  full  view,  with  all 
the  principal  houses.  On  the  right  is  Congress 
Hall  three  stories  high,  with  a  row  of  17  columns, 
rising  from  the  ground  to  the  eaves  ;  opposite  is 
Union  Hall  with  a  row  of  10  similar  columns  ; 
over  which  are  seen  the  brick  walls  of  the  United 
States  Hotel ;  and  still  beyond,  on  the  other  side, 
the  roof  of  the  Pavilion.  From  this  view  the  vil- 
lage is  represented  in  the  accompanyijjjg  print, 
which  was  taken  on  the  spot.  Sl\/  €^W^j  /m§^1 

On  reaching  the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  Cdrigress 
Spring,  the  great  attraction  of  the  place,  is  seen  at 
a  short  distance  on  the  right,  usually  surrounded 
with  a  throng  of  people. 

Congress  Hall  is  196  feet  long  on  the  street, 
with  two  wings  of  60  feet  running  back,  and  con- 
tains lodging  for  150.  The  first  floor  iu  front  is 
divided  in  the  following  manner  :  a  dining  room  in 
the  middle,  capable  of  containing  tables  for  all  the 
house  can  accommodate ;  next  the  dancing  hall, 

10* 


r  .1 


'X: 


122 


THE   SPRINGS. 


about  80  feet  long,  and  south  the  ladies'  private 
parlor.     The  price  of  board  is  $10  per  week* 

The  United  States  Hall  is  three  stories  high, 
with  a  colonade  rising  to  the  second  story.  This 
house  is  excellently  well  kept,  and  is  more  substan- 
tially built  than  any  of  the  rest,  which  are  of  a  light 
construction,  fit  only  for  the  mildest  weather ;  but 
it  is  deficient  in  public  rooms,  in  which  par^cular 
Congress  Hall  so  much  excels.     ;  jt,  1 1.  /    V  /{  i 

The  Pavilion,  is  a  very  good  house  for  one  of 
its  size.  Those  who  wish  to  drink  often  of  the 
Flat  Rock  water  will  prefer  it,  as  that  Spring  is  only 
a  few  steps  from  it  in  the  rear. 

Union  Hall  is  the  resort  of  those  who  wish  to 
avoid  the  continued  round  of  balls  and  dances  in  the 
other  principal  houses. 

The  Congress  Springs 
which  is  the  great  source  from  which  this  place  de- 
rives its  celebrity  and  its  show  of  wealth  and  im- 
portance, was  discovered  by  Mr.  Putnam.  He 
built  the  first  house  near  it  for  the  accommodation 
of  invalids,  which  was  subsequently  enlarged  to  the 
present  Union  Hall.  The  Congress  Spring  was 
^(U^  confliftitpd^l^f^the  neighboring  brook  which 
formefly  passed  over  it ;  but  its  valuable  qualities 
being  discovered,  it  has  attracted  universal  atten- 
tion, and  the  benefits  of  its  waters  are  annually 
dispensed  to  thousands. 

Mr.  Silliman  gives  the  following  analysis ;  half 
a  gallon  contains  320  grains  of  salt,  26  lime  and 
magnesia,  with  a  slight  trace  of  iron. 

The  Flat  Rock  Spring  is  near  the  upper  end  of 
the  street,  and  in  the  rear  of  the  Pavilion.  It  is  a 
chalybeate  water,  and  the  best  of  the  kind  in  the 


SARATOGA. 


123 


private 
eek.  - 
es  high, 
\  This 
Bubstan- 
f  a  light 
ler ;  but 
irticular 

r  one  of 

of  the 

ris  only 

wish  to 
3S  in  the 


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It  is  a 
in  the 


I 


place.     It  is  situated  on  the  margin  of  the  little 
valley,  in  which  all  the  springs  are  found. 

The  Round  Rock  Spring  is  worthy  of  a  visit 
merely  as  a  natural  curiosity ;  the  water,  although 
for  a  time  much  celebrated,  and  indeed  the  only 
attraction  of  Saratoga,  having  gone  into  disrepute, 
since  the  discovery  of  the  sources  already  men- 
tioned. It  is  a  feeble  chalybeate  with  little  taste 
and  little  effect.  The  water  rises  in  a  small  rock 
of  calcareous  tufa,  of  a  conical  form,  with  a  circu- 
lar hole  in  the  middle,  about  five  inches  in  diam- 
eter. The  rock  is  about  five  feet  through  at  the 
base,  and  has  (evidently  been  produced  by  the  lay- 
ers of  lime  deposited  by  the  water.  Many  of  the 
rocks  in  the  neighborhood  contain  a  large  quantity 
of  lime,  where  the  carbonic  acid  of  the  water  pro- 
bably obtains  the  supply  which  it  afterward  depo- 
sites  here.  The  gradual  accretion  which  is  thus 
constantly  going  on  is  very  apparent  even  to  a 
hasty  observer.  That  part  of  the  rock  which  is 
most  exposed  to  the  dripping  of  water  taken  out 
in  cups  through  the  hole  in  the  top,  is  always 
smooth  and  even,  while  other  parts  are  rough  and 
broken.  Fractures  made  by  visiters  are  sometimes 
found  half  obliterated  by  a  recent  coat  of  calca- 
reous matter  formed  in  this  manner.  A  horizontal 
rock,  apparently  of  similar  formation,  extends  for 
a  considerable  distance  under  the  surface  of  the 
ground  ;  and  indeed  it  might  be  supposed  to  reach 
to  some  of  the  springs  which  rise  in  different  places 
along  the  valley  above. 

The  water  formerly  flowed  over  the  top,  but  has 
for  many  years  found  its  way  below,  through  a 
crevice  produced  by  a  large  forest  tree  which  fell 
and  cracked  the  rock. 


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124 


THE   8PRIN0S. 


Saratoga  Lake  is  5^  miles  distant,  in  a  south- 
easterly direction,  and  is  frequently  visited  by  par- 
ties from  Ballston  as  well  as  Saratoga  Springs,  and 
has  a  good  house  on  the  shore.  Sailing  and  fish- 
ing on  the  lake  form  the  nmusements  of  the  ex- 
cursion. 

From  a  hill  near  it  as  >  ..u  approach,  the  eye 
embraces  a  part  of  this  fine  sheet  of  water,  with 
its  sloping  and  verdant  shores,  generally  divided 
by  square  fields  ;  with  a  distant  view  of  the  Green 
Mountains. 

At  a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  is 
erected  a  stage,  16  by  14  feet,  a  little  raised  above 
the  water,  and  capable  of  containing  thirty  people. 
The  lake  is  there  about  seven  feet  deep,  and  the 
spot  is  excellent  for  fishing.  Parties  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen  are  taken  ofi^  in  boats,  and  in  hot  weather 
an  awning  is  spread  to  shade  them  from  the  sun. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake  is  a  remarkable 
rocky  and  woody  hill,  of  a  rounded  form,  which  is 
connected  with  the  shore  only  by  a  narrow  neck. 
The  deepest  water  is  two  miles  below,  at  Drowned 
Meadow  Cove,  where  it  is  150  or  170  feet  to  the 
bottom. 

The  lake  extends  seven  miles  in  length,  and  is 
two  in  breadth.  The  shores  are  bold  and  varied, 
gently  descending  with  a  smooth  slope  to  the  mar- 
gin, or  rising  in  rugged  crags  from  the  water's  edge; 
sometimes  softened  and  beautified  by  the  hand  of 
cultivation,  and  sometimes  abandoned  to  all  their 
native  wildness. 

The  Reading  Room,  Strangers  will  find  news- 
papers from  different  parts  of  the  country. 

A  Record  will  also  be  found  at  the  same  place, 


REMARKS    ON    THE    ROUTES. 


125 


a  south- 
\  by  par- 
ings, and 
and  fish- 
f  the  ex- 

the  eye 
ter,  with 
r  divided 
\\e  Green 

shore,  is 
ed  above 
\'-  people. 
,  and  the 
idies  and 

weather 
he  sun. 

arkable 
which  is 

w  neck. 
)rowned 

t  to  the 

and  is 

varied, 

he  mar- 

s  edge; 

land  of 

II  their 

news- 
place, 


,1 


) 

I 


into  which  the  arrivals  and  departures  of  visiters 
are  copied,  once  a  day,  from  the  books  of  the  four 
principal  liou«es. 

SCHUYLERSVILLE,  12  m.  from  Saratoga, 
seven  miles  north  of  the  battle-ground.  A  stage 
coach  passes  through  this  place.  At  this  village 
Gen.  Burgoyne  was  forced  to  stop  on  his  re.reat, 
on  account  of  the  flood  in  Fish  Creek,  the  outlet 
of  Saratoga  Lake ;  and  at  Fort  Hardy,  which  then 
stood  on  its  banks,  he  surrendered  to  Gen.  Gates 
on  the  17th  October.  The  traces  of  his  camp  are 
still  very  discernible,  in  embankments,  ditches,  &c. 
one  mile  from  the  Fishkill,  and  opposite  the  Ba- 
tenkill  Creek.  General  Burgoyne  occupied  the 
night  of  October  8th,  and  the  following  day,  in 
getting  to  this  place,  although  it  is  but  7  miles,  on 
account  of  the  miserable  state  of  the  roads. 

Here  the  further  retreat  was  cut  ofl^*;  for  the  A- 
mericans  were  found  in  possession  of  the  fords  of 
the  Hudson.  Gen.  Burgoyne  therefore  took  his 
last  position  ;  and  Gen.  Gates  formed  his  camp  be- 
hind, while  Morgan  took  post  on  the  west  and  north 
of  the  British,  and  Gen.  Fellows  with  3000  men, 
was  stationed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
American  troops  were  also  in  Fort  Edward,  and  on 
the  high  ground  towards  Lake  George. 

While  remaining  in  this  situation,  the  British 
were  continually  exposed  to  the  fire  of  their  ene- 
mies, as  well  as  reduced  by  want  of  provision. 
Six  days  passed  thus;  when  on  the  17th  of  Octo- 
ber, 1777,  a  convention  was  signed,  and  the  army, 
being  marched  to  the  meadow  near  Old  Fort  Har- 
dy, piled  their  arms  and  surrendered  prisoners  of 
war,  to  the  number  of  5752  effective,  with  528  sick 
and  wounded.  This  meadow  is  in  sight  from  the  inn. 


I 

» 


I 'I 


i 


iff 


I 


126 


THE   SPRINGS. 


The  house  of  Gen,  Schuyler  stood  on  the  spot 
now  occupied  by  that  of  his  grandson.  It  wag 
burnt  by  Burgoync  on  liis  retreat,  together  with 
his  mills  ;  notwithstanding  which,  the  British  ofli- 
cers  were  afterwards  received  at  his  house  in  Al- 
bany, and  treated  with  great  kindness. 
Remarks  on  the  Routes. 
North. — Three  great  routes  from  the  Springs 
towards  the  north  may  be  particularized,  although 
they  run  almost  side  by  side,  and  all  unite  on  ar- 
riving at  Lake  Champlain.  1st,  The  fashionable 
route,  to  Caldwell,  on  Lake  George.  2d,  The 
Northern,  or  Champlain  Canal.  3d,  The  road  to 
Whitehall,  the  direct  route  on  the  way  to  Mon- 
treal. 

The  first  of  these  is  usually  travelled  by  stran- 
gcrs  of  taste  and  leisure,  as  it  conducts  directly 
to  the  fine  scenery  of  Lake  George,  and  the  bat- 
tle-grounds in  its  vicinity ;  and  passes  near  se- 
veral other  spots  of  high  interest  for  their  histori- 
cal associations.  It  is  with  a  particular  view  to 
this  route,  that  the  places  soon  to  be  mentioned 
will  be  arranged  and  described.  Even  if  a  jour- 
ney to  Montreal  is  intended,  it  can  hardly  be  too 
urgently  pressed  upon  the  stranger  to  devote  a 
leisure  day  or  two  to  Lake  George  on  his  way,  as 
he  will  find  himself  most  amply  rewarded,  and 
can  join  the  great  route  with  facility  at  Tieon- 
deroga. 

The  second  route,  by  the  Northern  Canal,  may 
be  met  near  the  battle-ground  at  Bemis's  Heights. 
In  fine  weather  gentlemen  may  travel  for  u  few 
miles  in  the  common  freight  boats. 

The  third  route  is  the  road  to  Whitehall,  which 


THE   SPRINGS. 


127 


1  the  spot 
It  wag 
!ther  witli 
ritish  ofli- 
use  in  Al- 


3  Springs 
,  although 
ite  on  ar- 
shionable 

2d,  The 
le  road  to 

to  Mon- 

by  stran- 
i   directly 
d  the  bat- 
near  se- 
ir  histori- 
view  to 
lentioned 
a  jour- 
ly  be  too 
devote  a 
way,  as 
ded,   and 
t  Ticon- 

nal,  may 
Heights. 
)r   u  few 

11,  which 


I 


is  furnished  with  public  carriages  from  the  Springs 
during  the  warm  sciiHon,  anil,  like  the  canal,  pass- 
es near  some  of  the  interesting  places  to  be  men- 
tioned hereafter. 

East, — Travellers  wishing  to  go  to  any  part  of 
the  country  in  this  direction,  may  take  their  choice 
of  several  routes.  Lines  of  stage  coaches  run  to 
Connecticut  river  from  Iturlington,  Middlebury, 
Castle^on,  and  Granville,  as  well  as  from  Troy 
and  Albany,  in  various  directions  — to  Hanover, 
Brattleborough,  Greenfield,  Northampton,  Spring- 
field, Hartford;  and  there  subdividing  into  numer- 
ous ramifications,  oflfer  the  means  of  conveyance 
to  every  part  of  New-England. 

To  meet  most  of  these  routes,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  proceed  to  some  point  north  or  south  of 
the  Springs,  for  which  public  carriages  are  esta- 
blished in  several  directions  from  Saratoga  and 
Ballston.  Arrangements  may  be  made  at  the  bar 
of  the  house  where  the  stranger  is  lodged. 

Two  lines  of  coaches  run  along  the  course  of 
Hudson  River  and  Wood  creek,  one  on  each  side; 
and  the  eastern  one  carries  the  mail  through 
Castleton,  Middlebury,  Burlington,  &c.  along  the 
course  of  Lake  Champlain,  though  generally  at 
too  great  a  distance  to  command  a  view  of  it.  The 
country  there  is  very  fine,  the  villages  beautiful, 
and  the  surface  frequently  mountainous. 

The  most  interesting'  route  that  can  be  chosen 
by  a  man  of  taste,  from  the  Springs  to  Boston,  is 
through  Vermont  to  the  White  Mountains,  and 
Winnipiseogee  Lake  in  New-Hamj)shire.  He 
may  take  what  road  he  pleases  to  Connecticut 
River. 


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51 


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128 


WILTON. 


EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE,  27  miles. 

This  is  by  far  tiie  most  delightful,  excursion 
which  can  be  made  from  the  Springs  in  any  direc- 
tion, as  it  abounds  with  some  of  the  finest  scenery 
in  the  United  States,  and  in  numerous  sites  and 
objects  intimately  connected  with  the  history  ol 
the  country. 

From  the  time  of  the  earliest  wars  between  the 
British  colonies  and  the  French  in  Canada,  to  that 
of  1755,  the  tract  over  which  the  upper  part  of 
our  route  lies  was  the  high  road  of  war.  It  was 
traversed  by  many  a  hostile  expedition,  in  which 
the  splendor  and  power  of  European  arms  min- 
gled with  the  fierce  tactics  of  savage  warriors : 
the  r'jiins  of  fortresses  are  still  to  be  traced  in  se- 
veral places,  and  tradition  points  to  many  a  spot 
that  has  been  sprinkled  with  blood.  During  the 
Revolution,  also,  some  of  the  important  events  in 
our  history,  took  place  in  that  neighborhood. 

The  Journey  to  Montreal  may  be  o  ade  hy  the 
vjay  of  Lake  George ;  and  this  route  the  book 
will  pursue,  to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  whither  the 
reader,  it  is  hoped,  will  accompany  it. 
FROM  Saratoga  to  Glenn's  Falls,  18  miles. 
Wilton,  7  miles,  Glenn'' s  Falls,  1 1  miles. — Half 
a  mile  before  reaching  Glenn's  Falls,  tht  road  en- 
ters a  rich  plain,  probably  once  overflown  by  the 
river,  which  is  now  discovered  on  the  left,  divi- 
ding it  in  its  course,  while  the  village  appears  in 
front,  with  a  handsome  church  spire,  and  a  num- 
ber of  neat  white  houses,  all  backed  by  the  moun- 
tains,  which  here  stretch  off  towards  the  north. 
French  Mountain  is  the  most  prominent  eminence 
of  which  more  anon.  A  more  distant  range  is 
likewise  seen  further  to  the  right. 


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a 


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ol 


GLENN  S    FALLS. 


129 


17  miles, 
excursion 
■iny  ilirec- 
st scenery 
sites  and 
history  ot 

tween  the 

da,  to  that 

er  part  of 

r.     It  was 

in  which 

irms  min- 

warriors : 

iced  in  se- 

any  a  spot 

)uring  the 

t  events  in 

hood. 

de  by  the 

the   book 

hither  the 

18  miles, 
es. — Half 
road  en- 
wn  by  the 
left,  divi- 
p pears  in 
id  a  num- 
he  moun- 
he  north, 
eminence 
range  is 


f 


•Glenn^s  Falls,— From  the  bridge,  the  falls  in 
the  Hudson  are  in  full  view  below.  The  river 
here  makes  a  sudden  descent  of  37  feet  over  a 
rock  of  dark  blue  limestone,  which  has  been 
worn  into  so  many  forms  as  to  break  up  the  cur- 
rent in  a  very  singular  manner.  The  projection 
of  two  large  masses  of  rock  divides  the  water 
into  three  sheets  (except  when  it  is  much  swollen 
by  floods.)  Of  these,  the  northern  channel  is 
much  the  largest,  and  the  other  two  unite  and  pass 
through  a  deep  channel,  about  15  feet  wide.  A 
man  jumped  off  the  bridge  here  twice,  a  few 
years  ago,  yet  escaped  without  serious  injury.  The 
most  water  passes  through  t!ie  otiier  channel.* 

A  dam  is  thrown  across  just  above  the  falls, 
which  supplies  a  Cotton  Manufactory  of  Stone 
with  water,  as  well  as  several  mills.  On  the 
north  side  of  the  river  a  feeder  to  the  Champlain 
canal,  furnishes  water  for  several  mills,  and  an  ar- 
tificial cascade. 

The  great  Hat  rock  which  supports  the  bridge, 
projects  beyond  it,  and  affords  s[  ace  for  a  small 
garden  on  its  highest  part,  although  most  of  it 
is  overflown  in  high  floods.  Like  the  other  rocky 
strata  there,  it  has  a  gentle  dip  towards  the  south, 
and  a  perpendicular  fracture  running  nearly  north 
and  south. 


*Sanflif  ffi'I,  3  miles  eastxonrd. — This  viilage  is  pleasantly  situated  at 
the  next  fall  in  the  river  below.  The  cascii(ic  is  less  remarkable  as  an 
object  of  curiosity  an<l  interest,  but  it  is  still  worthy  of  attention  if  tho 
stranger  iiave  sufficient  time  at  his  (lispos:il.  He  will  find  a  pleasant  road 
onward  ;  and  if  he  should  Ite  on  his  return  from  Lake  Geo'  ge,  and  wishes 
to  visit  this  part  of  the  river,  the  FiUd  ofSurrtttder  or  the  liaUle  Ground 
before  reaching  Saratoga  or  Ballston,  he  will  find  it  convenient  to  follow 
the  course  of  the  river.  The  village  has  a  jj;oi)d  inn.  i''or  a  description 
of  the  principal  scenes  of  this  route  see  ludex. 

II 


■  -.' 

I    : 


ilfl 


!     I 


130 


THE     SPRINGS. 


Caverns, — Passing  through  the  garden,  and 
turning  to  the  left,  the  mouths  of  two  caverns  are 
found  facing  the  north,  in  ditferent  places  among 
the  rocks.  They  have  been  cut  through  by  the 
rushing  of  water,  in  a  direction  across  the  river's 
course,  and  corresponding  with  the  natural  frac- 
ture. The  first  is  just  large  enough  to  permit  the 
passage  of  a  man,  and  is  cut  with  surprising  regu- 
larity for  a  distance  of  about  25  feet.  Tnis  place 
is  made  the  scene  of  some  of  the  most  interesting 
chapters  of  Mr.  Cooper's  novel  of  The  last  of 
the  Mohicans.  The  cavern  conducts  to  one  of  the 
river's  channels,  where  it  opens  on  the  side  of  a 
precipice,  directly  over  the  water.  The  banks  of 
the  river  are  perpendicular  rocks  as  far  as  can  be 
seen ;  and  ricarly  opposite  the  caverns,  under  the 
north  bank,  is  an  abundant  spring  of  fine,  pure 
water,  which  pours  from  a  hole  in  the  rock,  a  few 
feet  from  the  surface  of  the  river. 

About  half-way  between  this  place  and  Sandy 
Hill,  a  convoy  of  waggons  was  attacked  in  the 
French  war,  on  their  way  to  Lake  George. 

Nearly  north  of  Glenn's  Falls,  is  Luzerne 
Mountain;  and  a  little  to  the  right  of  it,  French 
Mountain.  Between  them  passes  the  road  to  Lake 
George.  Towards  the  west,  a  range  of  high  hills 
encloses  the  view,  and  in  the  east,  the  Vermont 
Mountains  make  a  fine  appearance. 

Near  the  foot  of  French  Mountain  is  a  small 
tavern,  on  the  east  side  of  the  road  ;  and  near 
this  place  Gen.  Dieskau's  advanced  guard  struck 
the  route  from  Glenn's  Falls  and  Fort  Edward  to 
Fort  William  Henry.  The  valley  through  which 
we  pass  is  narrow  for  some  distance  beyond  ;  and 


LAKB   GEOROti. 


131 


[en,    and 
^erns  are 
s  among 
h  by  the 
le  river's 
ural  frac- 
lermit  the 
ing  regu- 
'iiis  place 
iteresting 
e  last   of 
)ne  of  the 
side  of  a 
;  banks  of 
as  can  be 
under  the 
ine,   pure 
>ck,  a  few 

nd  Sandy 

:ed  in  the 

re. 

Luzerne 

,  French 

to  Lake 

igh  hills 

Vermont 

a  small 
land  near 

d  struck 
[ward  to 
rh  which 
md ;  and 


after  about  half  an  hour's  ride,  a  little  circular 
pond  is  discovered  on  the  east  side,  and  close  by 
the  road.  It  is  generally  almost  concealed  with 
water  plants. 

This  was  near  the  place  of  action  between  Col- 
onel Williams  and  General  Dieskau.  The  latter 
had  extended  his  troops  across  the  path,  and  ad- 
vanced his  wings  some  distance  in  front,  the  left 
wing  occupying  the  rising  ground  on  the  west  side 
of  the  road  near  this  place,  and  is  said  to  have 
been  the  principal  scene  of  action.  A  singular 
rock  near  by  is  pointed  out  by  iradition  as  the 
mark  of  Col.  Williams's  grave.  I'lis,  however, 
is  considered  very  doubtful ;  by  ollters,  it  is  said 
that  he  ascended  the  rock  to  reconnoitre,  and  was 
shot  from  its  summit. 

The  little  pond  above  mentioned  was  the  place 
where  most  of  the  dead  were  thrown,  and  it  bears 
the  name  of  Bloody  Pond  to  this  day.  It  is  pro- 
bably much  smaller  than  formerly.  In  1825  the 
skeleton  of  a  man  was  dug  up  from  a  depth  of 
one  and  a  half  feet,  near  the  pond,  with  a  marble 
pipe,  and  some  silver-eyed  buttons  bearing  the 
royal  stamp.  This  pond  is  nearly  circular,  and 
is  covered,  in  its  season,  with  the  Pond  Lily 
(Nymphea  Alba,)  which  expands  its  flowers  on 
the  surface  of  the  water. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  this  place,  is 
a  fine  view  of 

LAKE  GEORGE. 

Coming  to  the  brow  of  a  high  hill,  the  prospect 
opens,  and  the  lake  appears,  enclosed  by  moun- 
tains, many  of  which,  at  this  distance,  are  of  a 
deep  blue.     The  side  of  French  Mountain  is  near 


iiil 


m 


m 


i 


r 


;!' 


'Mi 

'Ml 

(» 

,    1 

iH) 

1 

Hi 

i 

IK 

1 

m 

1 

H 

m 

1  ;' 

;| 

132 


LAKE   a£OROE. 


at  hand  on  the  cast,  covered  with  thick  trees  to 
the  summit ;  while  the  smoothness  of  the  lake, 
the  beauty  of  its  nearest  shore,  with  the  neat  white 
buildings  of  Caldwell,  communicate  to  the  scene 
a  degree  of  beauty  and  seclusion,  which  can  hardly 
be  found  in  any  other  spot.  Directly  at  the  south 
end  of  Lake  George,  are  the  remains  of  Forts 
George  and  William  Henry,  famous  in  the  history 
of  the  French  war;  and  on  the  site  of  the  former 
was  General  Johnson's  camp,  when  he  was  attack- 
ed by  Dieskau.  The  particulars  of  the  action 
will  be  given  hereafter. 

Caldwell.  Here  the  visiter  will  stop  to  take 
a  view  of  this  charming  lake,  and  hence  he  may 
make  excursions  across  its  beautiful  waters.  The 
village  stands  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  com- 
manding a  fine  view  of  the  mountains  by  which  it 
is  almost  enclosed.  The  inn  overlooks  the  lake 
for  several  miles.  A  more  delightful  place  can 
hardly  be  found  in  the  United  States,  for  the  tem- 
porary residence  of  one  who  takes  delight  in 
scenery  of  this  description,  and  loves  to  recur  to 
deeds  long  past,  important  in  their  results  even  to 
the  present  day. 

Lake  George  is  34  miles  long,  and  its  greatest 
breadth  4.  At  the  south  end  it  is  only  about  one 
mile  broad.  The  greatest  depth  is  sixty  fathoms. 
The  water  is  remarkable  for  its  purity — a  fish  or 
a  stone  may  be  seen  at  the  depth  of  20  or  30  feet. 
It  is  undoubtedly  supplied  by  springs  from  below, 
as  the  water  is  coldest  near  the  bottom.  It  con- 
tains trout,  bass,  and  perch.  There  are  deer  in 
the  neighboring  forest.  The  outlet  which  leads 
to  Lake  Champlain  contains  three  large  falls  and 
rapids.     The  lake  never  rises  more  than  two  feet. 


LAKE    GEORGE. 


133 


trees   to 
the  lake, 
leat  white 
the  scene 
;an  hardly 
the  south 
of  Forts 
he  history 
he  former 
^as  attack- 
he   action 

)p  to  take 
e  he  may 
ers.  The 
ake,  com- 
y  which  it 
s  the  lake 
place  can 
r  the  tem- 
lelight  in 
I  recur  to 
ts  even  to 

|s  greatest 
ibout  one 
fathoms, 
a  fish  or 
.r  30  feet. 
|m  below, 
It  con- 
deer  in 
ch  leads 
falls  and 
Itwo  feet. 


The  three  best  points  of  view  are  at  Fort  Ge<»rge, 
a  place  north  of  Shelvinor  Rock,  14  miles,  and 
another  at  Sabbath  Day  Point,  21  miles  from  the 
head  of  the  lake.  The  last  view  is  taken  south- 
ward, the  other  two  northward. 

This  beautiful  basin,  with  its  pure  crystal  water, 
is  bounded  by  two  ranges  of  mountains,  which,  in 
some  places  rising  with  a  bold  and  hasty  ascent 
from  the  water,  and  in  others  descending  with  a 
graceful  sweep  from  a  great  height  to  a  broad  and 
level  margin,  furnish  it  with  a  charming  variety 
of  scenery,  which  every  change  of  weather,  as 
well  as  every  change  of  position,  presents  in  new 
and  countless  beauties.  The  intermixture  of  cul- 
tivation with  the  wild  P'^enes  of  nature  is  extremely 
agreeable  ;  and  the  undulating  surface  of  the  well- 
tilled  farm  is  often  contrasted  with  the  deep  shade 
of  the  native  forest,  and  the  naked,  weather-beaten 
cliffs,  where  no  vegetation  can  dwell. 

The  situation  of  the  hotel  is  delightful,  surpass- 
ing that  of  almost  every  other  to  be  found  in  this 
part  of  the  country,  A  green  and  handsome  slope 
descends  about  200  yards  to  the  very  margin, 
where  there  is  no  obstruction  but  a  few  trees  and 
scattering  buildings.  There  is  the  wharf,  at  which 
the  steamboat  receives  and  lands  her  passengers, 
often  adding  much  variety  to  the  place  by  an  addi- 
tion of  company.  The  discharge  of  the  signal 
gun  makes  fine  echoes  among  the  mountains  in  a 
clear  night. 

Excursions  on  the  Lake,  Fishing,  &c.  Boats 
are  kept  at  the  wharf  to  convey  passengers  to  any 
part  of  the  neighboring  shores  and  islands.  Fine 
perch,  or  black  bass,  (Perca   Franklinia,)  are 

11* 


\1\ 


4:' 


i\ 


!f 


an 


134 


EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE. 


caught  in  abundance  almost  every  where;  and 
trout,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  near  the 
south  end.  Fishing  rods  and  tackle  may  be  ob- 
tained at  the  hotel ;  and  a  variety  of  other  fish  are 
to  be  found. 

Diamond  Island  is  a  few  miles  down  the  lake, 
and  crystals  of  quartz,  are  found  in  a  loose  rock 
by  digging  a  little  under  the  surface.  They  are 
found  in  equal  numbers  in  several  of  the  other 
islands. 

Tea  Island,  about  2  miles  down  the  lake,  is 
another  favorite  retreat.  The  little  bay  in  which 
the  boats  land  is  remarkably  retired  and  beautiful. 

Long  Island  contains  about  100  acre?,  and  has 
been  inhabited  and  cultivated.  Besides  these, 
there  are  many  other  islands  on  the  neighboring 
parts  of  the  lake  ;  and  those  who  are  fond  of  such 
excursions  would  be  highly  delighted  with  devo- 
ting several  days  to  visit  them.  The  finest  clus- 
ter is  in  the  Narrows,  about  12  miles  distant. 

West  of  the  village  is  a  remarkable  conical  em- 
inence, called  Rattlesnakes^  Cobble,  or  Prospect 
Hill.  This,  as  well  as  the  mountains  beyond  it, 
is  the  habitation  of  bears  and  deer,  and  much  in- 
fested with  rattlesnakes.  The  view  from  the  top 
is  very  fine. 

The  French  Approaches,  The  village  of  Cald- 
well is  of  recent  date.  In  the  French  war,  during 
the  seige  of  Fort  William  Henry,  the  ground 
which  it  now  occupies  was  crossed  by  the  trench- 
es and  batteries  with  which  Montcalm  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  forcing  the  capitulation  of  that  little 
fortress. 

He  landed  with  his  army  in  the  little  cove  just 


BATTLE    OF    LAKE    DEORGE. 


136 


lere;  and 
I  near  the 
ly  be  ob- 
ir  fish  are 

the  lake, 
oose  rock 
riiey  are 
the   other 

5  lake,    is 

r  in  vvhich 

beautiful. 

s,  and  has 

Ics    these, 

iighboring 

nd  of  such 

,vith  devo- 

nest  clus- 

$tant. 

nical  em- 

Prospect 

jeyond  it, 

nuich  in- 

n  the  top 

of  Cald- 
r,  during 
3  ground 
e  trench- 
lally  suc- 
lat   little 

Jove  just 


) 


behind  the  new  stone  building,  a  few  steps  north 
of  the  hotel.  He  erected  his  battery  near  the 
ehore,  and  ran  his  first  trench  across  the  street 
into  the  fields  in  front  of  the  hotel.  The  remains 
may  still  be  traced,  as  well  as  the  marks  of  a  small 
mortar  battery,  near  the  bars  of  a  fence  leading  to 
a  small  house.  Another  line  runs  to  the  bank  of 
the  lake,  on  this  side  of  the  brook,  where  was 
also  a  battery  ;  and  another  borders  the  swamp  to 
the  right,  and  another  turns  southward  along  the 
high  ground.  Behind  this,  in  a  pine  wood,  are  the 
graves  of  about  1000  French  soldiers,  whodiedin 
the  fort  after  its  caj)ture. 

Battle  of  Lake  George.  In  1755,  the  year 
after  the  commencement  of  the  French  War, 
5000  men  were  sent  out  from  France  to  Quebec, 
for  the  purpose  of  taking  Oswego  Fort,  on  the 
shore  of  Lake  Ontario. 

Gen.  Johnson,  (afterward  Sir  William,)  march- 
ed to  the  south  end  of  Lake  George  with  a  con- 
siderable number  ol  men,  joined  by  the  famous 
Capt.  Ilendrick,  with  many  Indians  of  the  Five 
Nations,  intending  to  take  Fort  Frederick,  now 
Crown  Point.  Gen.  Dieskau  was  sent  to  oppose 
hi:n.  At  Fort  Frederick,  or  Crown  Point,  he  re- 
mained some  time,  and  then  went  up  the  South 
Bay,  where,  learning  the  situation  of  Fort  Lyman 
(now  Fort  Edward,)  he  wished  to  attack  it  and  cut 
off  the  retreat  of  Gen.  Johnson.  The  Indians  and 
Canadians,  however,  were  in  dread  of  the  cannon 
with  which  it  was  supposed  to  be  defended,  and 
he  was  o 


ige( 


agaii 


met 


1200   men  under  Col.  Ephraim  Williams, 
them  at  Rocky  Brook,  drawn  up  in  a  semicircle, 


t? . ! 


E    ■' 


M 


til 


T.:  vi 


\M 


EXCURSION  TO  lAKE  GEORGE. 


I 


ill 


into  which  the  English  entered  before  they  knew 
it.  The  English  stood  their  ground  valiantly; 
but  Col.  Williams  and  Hendrick  being  both  shot 
down,  together  with  many  others,  they  were  ob- 
liged to  begin  their  retreat,  which  was  conducted 
by  Col.  Wliiting  with  the  greatest  coolness  and 
success. 

The  centre  of  the  English  army  was  posted  on 
the  hill  where  the  ruins  of  Fort  George  now  are; 
and  the  French  were  (liscovcrcd  by  them  at  half 
past  11.  Dieskau  halted  at  the  sight  of  his  ene- 
mies, probably  entertaining  some  mistaken  idea 
of  the  streiiglh  of  their  position,  and  gave  them 
time  to  :>  :o  n  from  their  panic.  The  ground  on 
both  sidt,  oi  ih  ^  English  camp  was  marshy  and 
covered  with  trees,  and  Dieskau  sent  his  Indians 
out  on  the  right  flank  and  the  Canadians  on  the 
left,  to  surround  them.  Col.  Pomeroy,  however, 
soon  put  the  former  to  flight  with  a  few  cannon 
shots.  Dieskau  then  brought  up  his  troop^:  in 
front,  and  made  them  fire  by  platoons,  but  with 
very  little  eflect.  Gen.  Johnson  was  slightly 
wounded  in  the  thigh,  and  had  to  walk  back  to  his 
tent,  leaving  the  command  with  Gen.  Lyman. 
He  directed  the  defence  for  five  hours,  aided  by 
Capt,  Eyre's  artillery;  when  the  French  turned 
upon  the  English  right,  which  consisted  of  Rug- 
gles's,  Pomeroy's,  and  Tittecomb's  regiments,  and 
extended  from  the  road  to  where  Fort  William 
Henry  was  afterward  built.  Here  they  fought  an 
hour,  but  the  English  and  Indians  charging  them, 
they  took  to  flight  and  many  were  killed.  Gen. 
Dieskau  himself  was  foynd  leaning  against  a 
etump  wounded — a  soldier  approaching  saw  him 


I 


ey  knew 
aliuntly ; 
foth  shot 
were  ob- 
3nducted 
less   and 

)Osted  on 
lovv  are ; 
u  at  half 
his  ene- 
ken  idea 
ive  them 
round  on 
i'shy  and 
3  Indians 
J   on    the 
[lowever, 
caunon 
roopiL  in 
Jilt  with 
slightly 
ck  to  his 
Lyman, 
ided   by 
turned 
of  Rug- 
nts,  and 
William 
|)Ught  an 
g  them, 
Gen. 
ainst   a 
w  him 


MASSACRE    AT    FORT    WILLIAM    HENRY.       137 

put  his  hand  to  his  waist,  to  take  out  his  watch, 
which  he  intended  to  offer  to  him,  and  supposing 
he  was  drawing  a  pistol,  shot  him  through  the 
thigh.  He  was  carried  to  the  fort  by  eight  men 
in  a  blanket,  and  it  is  said  deterred  Johnson  from 
ordering  a  pursuit,  by  saying  he  had  a  strong  force 
near  at  hand.  Gen.  Lyman  urged  to  follow  up 
their  victory ;  but  that  was  probably  a  sufficient 
reason  for  its  being  refused  by  a  superior  officer, 
who  did  not  even  mention  the  name  of  Gen.  Ly- 
man in  his  account  of  the  battle  ! — Johnson  was 
made  a  Baronet,  and  Lyman  lingered  out  a  few 
years  in  poverty  and  disappointment,  and  died 
without  receiving  even  the  notice  of  the  British 
government. 

The  English  are  said  to  have  losl  ily  216  in 
killed  and  96  wounded.  Gen.  Dicskau  estimated 
his  own  loss  at  1000 — the  English  called  it  much 
less.  The  principal  were  a  major-general,  and  M. 
de  St.  Pierre,  the  commande  of  the  Indians. 
The  French  lost  their  baggage  during  the  action, 
two  miles  in  their  rear,  it  being  attacked  by  Cap- 
tains Folsom  and  M'Ginnies  with  about  100  New- 
York  troops;  who  then  lay  in  wait  for  the  re- 
treating French,  and  killed  great  numbers  of  them. 

Gen.  Johnson  might  have  taken  Crown  Point ; 
but  he  delayed  it  so  long,  that  the  French  advan- 
ced to  Ticonderoga  and  there  fortified  themselves 
securely. 

The  Capture  and  Massacre  of  Fort  Wil- 
liam Henry.  So  different  was  the  state  of  the 
country  sixty  years  ago,  and  so  much  in  its  infan- 
cy was  the  art  of  war  in  these  wild  regions,  that 
ft  small  work  of  earth  thrown  up  on  this  site,  and 


■  y 


[T 


138 


EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE. 


called  Fort  William  ITcnry,    was    regarded   as  af 
fortress  of  conslderabh^  strength  and  consequence.. 

In  17.57,  the  Earl  of  Loudon,  British  Comman- 
der-in-Chief in  America,  made  an  unsuccessful  at- 
tempt by  sea  against  Louisburg;  and    before    his 
rsturn  to  New-York  in  Aujrust,  the  French  from 
Ticonderoga,  under   the   Marquis   de   Montcalm,, 
'had  made  three  attacks  on  Foit  William  Henry. 
On  the  1st  of  August  they  set  out  again,  and  land- 
ed at  Frenchman's  Point.     On  the  evening  of  the 
2d,  they  crossed  to  the  west  side  of  Lake  George,, 
within  two  miles  of  the  Fort,  and  the  next  morn- 
ing sent  in  their  summons.     Col.  Munroe  defend- 
ed himself  resolutely  for  six  days,    hoping    relief 
from  Gen.  Webb  and  his  6000  men    at   Fort   Ed- 
ward ;  but  having  waited  in  vain,  and  burst  ten  of* 
his  largest  cannon,  he  was  obliged  to    surrender,, 
and  marched  out  with  the   honors  of  war  and  an 
assurance  of  being  protected  from  the  Indians  ia 
Montcalm's  army. 

He  had  gone  but  a  little  way,  however,  when- 
the  savages  fell  upon  his  troops  and  butchered, 
about  1500,  men,  women,  and  children. 

Gen.  Webb's  conduct  was  most  inhuman.  The 
provincial  troops  were  kept  under  arms  for  one 
whole  day  after  the  news  of  the  seige  arrived  at 
Fort  Edward,  and  Sir  William  Johnson  was  very 
desirous  to  march  with  them  to  its  relief;  but 
Webb  ordered  them  back  to  their  quarters,  and 
sent  a  messenger  to  Col.  Monroe  advising  him  ta 
surrender. 

Attack  on  Fort  Ticonderoga,  The  south 
end  of  Lake  George  was  the  scene  of  a  splendid 
embarkation  on  the  4th  of  July  of  the  following 


ATTACK    ON    TICONDEROOA. 


139 


dcd   as  a 
sequence. 
Comman- 
cessful  at- 
efore   his 
inch  from 
lontcalm,. 
n  Henry, 
and  land- 
ing of  the 
e  George,, 
ext  morn- 
oe  defcnd- 
ling    relief 
Fort   Ed- 
urst  ten  of 
surrender,, 
ar  and  an 
Indians  in 

i^er,  when 
butchered. 

lan.  The 
for  one 
irrived  at 

was  \ery 
lelief;  but 
fters,  and 

ig  him  ta 

'he  south 

splendid 

following 


year  [1758,]  wlicn    10,000  provincial  troops,   and 
6  or  7000  regulars  assembled  at  this  place  to  pro- 
ceed  against    Ticondcroga.*       1035    boats    were 
.drawn  up  to  the  shore  one  clear  delightful  summer 
morning,  and  were  speedily  filled  with    this  pow- 
;«rful  army,  excepting  only  a  small  body  left  with 
the  baggage.     Success  was   coiilidciitly  expected, 
and  the  appearance  of  the  train  was  more  like  that 
of  a  triumphant  return  from  war.     The  boats  were 
decor^'ed  with  gaudy  streamers,  and  the  oars  mo- 
ved to  martial   music.     The   traveller  will  follow 
their  route  in  the  steamboat,  for  which  see  below. 
They  landed  at  the  north    end    of  the   lake   on 
the  following  morning,  and  were  ordered  to  march 
on  in  four  columns.     The    obstructions    of   the 
forest   however    soon    broke   their    ranks ;   when 
Lord  Howe,  with  his   centre    column,   falling    in 
with  the  enemy's    advance    guard,   who   were  on 
their  retreat  and  bewildered,  was  attacked  with  a 
ijsudden  war  whoop  and  immediately  killed.     The 
'provincials  were  accustomed  to  the  woods,  diove 
back  their  enemies,  killing  about  300,  and  taking 
148  prisoners,    and   returned    to  the  landing.     In 
the  morning,  Col.    Bradstreet  took  possession   of 
the  mill  at  the  great  falls  on  the   river,    and  the 
army  were   soon  brought  up  to  the  French  lines, 
which  were  thrown  up  across  tlie  isthmus  and  not 
finished.     This  intrenchment  is  still  to  be  seen  in 
tolerable  preservation.     It  had  two  redoubts  and 
a  deep  abattis,  and  is  said  to  have  been  8  or  9  feet 
high,  though  that  seems  improbable.     The  attack 

*  Lord  Howe,  who  accompanied  this  expedition,  was  a  young-  noble- 
man of  amiable  disposition  and  tlio  most  prepossessing'  manners,  and  was 
almost  idolized  by  the  army,  as  well  as  admired  and  loved  by  the  country. 


140 


EXCURSION    TO    LAKE    C^OROE. 


was  vigorous,  and  the  defence  obstinate.  The 
battle  continued  four  hours,  durinj^  wfiich  the  Eng" 
lish  were  repulsed  three  times.  The  English  loss, 
in  all,  was  1944,  principally  regulars  ;  the  Frencb 
very  trilling,  although  they  are  said  not  to  have 
imagined  the  defence  possible.  Their  force  is 
differently  stated  from  1200  to  OOUO.  Notwith- 
standing his  superiority  of  force,  Abercrombie 
shamefully  ordered  a  retreat ;  and  thus  terminated 
the  operations  of  the  year, 

VOYAOE    DOWN    LaKE    GeORGE. 

Leaving  Caldwell,  and  passing  Mr.  Caldwell's 
house,  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  the  steamboat  passes 
Tea  Island,  Diamond,  Long,  and  other  islands,  par- 
ticularly the  Two  Sisters  ;  and  then  the  lake  be- 
comes wider,  and  the  surface  more  uninterrupted, 
the  course  of  the  boat  being  directly  towards  a  re- 
markable eminence,  with  a  double  summit,  called 
Tongue  Mountain.  That  which  partly  shuts  it  in 
from  this  direction  on  the  right,  is  Shelving  Rock  \ 
and  Black  Mountain  shows  its  rounded  summit  be- 
yond it,  a  little  further  to  the  right.  This  last  is 
supposed  to  be  about  2200  feet  high,  and  the  high- 
est mountain  on  the  lake. 

Twelve  Mile  Island  appears  to  be  at  the  foot  of 
Tongue  Mountain,  and  isscen  just  ahead  for  a  great 
distance  after  leaving  Caldwell.  It  is  of  a  singular- 
ly rounded  form,  covered  with  trees,  with  the  ut- 
most regularity,  and  protected  from  the  washing  of 
the  waves  by  a  range  of  large  stones  along  the 
shore,  so  well  disposed  as  to  seem  like  a  work  of 
art. 

A  rich  and  cultivated  slope  is  seen  on  the  west- 
ern shore,  before  reaching  Tongue  Mountain. 


nate.  The 
ch  the  Eng- 
nglish  loss, 
the  Frencb 
lot  to  have 
ir  force  is 
Notwith- 
bercrornbie 
terminated 

Caldweirs 
boat  passes 
ihinds,  par- 
e  lake  be- 
Ucrrupted, 
ivards  a  re- 
mit, called 
shuts  it  in 
mg  Rock ; 
summit  be- 
Uiis  last  is 
d  the  high- 

the  foot  of 
for  a  great 
a  singular- 
ith  the  ut- 
kvashing  of 
along  the 
a  work  of 


the  west- 
ntain. 


11 


im 


* 


LAKE    (JEOIUIK. 


141 


1^ 


r^ 


3- 


The  Narrows.  The  lake  is  very  much  con- 
tracted, where  it  passes  between  the  mountains 
just  mentioned,  and  the  surface  is  for  several  miles 
broken  by  innumerable  islands.  These  are  of  va- 
rious sizes,  but  generally  very  small,  and  of  little 
elevation.  A  few  of  them  arc  named,  as  Green, 
Bas9,  Lone-tree  islands.  Some  are  covered  with 
trees,  others  with  shrubs,  »ome  show  little  lawns  or 
spots  of  grass,  heaps  of  barren  rocks,  or  gently 
sloping  shores  ;  and  most  of  them  are  ornantented 
with  graceful  piney,  hemlocks,  and  other  tall  trees, 
collected  in  groups,  or  standing  alone,  arul  dispos- 
ed with  most  charming  variety.  Sometimes  an 
island  will  be  observed  just  large  enough  to  sup- 
port a  few  fine  trees,  or  perhaps  a  single  one,  while 
the  next  may  appear  like  a  solid  mass  of  bushes  ?ind 
wild  (lowers ;  near  at  hand,  perhaps,  is  a  third, 
with  a  dark  grove  of  pines,  and  a  decaying  old 
trunk  in  front  of  it;  and  thus,  through  every  in- 
terval between  the  islands  as  you  })ass  along,  an- 
other and  another  labyrinth  is  opened  to  view, 
among  little  isolated  spots  of  ground,  divided  by 
narrow  channcds,  from  which  it  seems  impossible 
for  a  person  who  should  have  entered  them,  ever 
to  find  his  way  out.  Some  of  the  islands  look  al- 
most like  ships  with  their  masts  ;  and  many  have 
an  air  of  lightness  as  if  they  were  sailing  upon  the 
lake. 

*'  Some  small,  just  a  nest  for  the  heron  that  springs 
*'  From  the  long  grass,  and  flashes  the  dew  from  his  wings  ; 
"  Some  bearing  one  pine  tree,  the  stately  and  fair, 
"  Alone,  like  a  column  aloft  in  the  air: 
"  Wliile  others  have  shrubs  and  sweet  plants,  that  extend 
"  Their  boughs  to  the  stream  o'er  whose  mir.or  they  bend  ; 
"  The  lilly,  that;  queen-like,  uprears  to  the  sun, 

12 


\l 


142 


EXCURSION    TO    LAKE    tiKOR(.F, 


"  Tlio  loveliest  faco  thatlluf  li^lit  is  upon  ; 

"  Wliilo  bcsido  stands  tlio  cyj)ross  that  darkcn.s  the  wave, 

"  With  a  ibiiugo  ineuiit  only  to  sliadowthc  grave." 


Eng.  Mag. 


After  passing  the  Narrows,  tlic  lake  widens  a- 
ji^ain,  and  the  retrospect  is,  for  several  miles, 
thr«)u«;h  that  j)assao^e,  with  Tongue  Mountain  on  the 
west,  and  Hhick  Mountain  opposite,  the  Luzerne 
range  appearing  at  a  great  distance  between  them. 
The  mountains  in  view  have  generally  rounded 
summits  ;  but  the  sides  are  in  many  places  broken 
by  precipitous  ledges.  They  are  inhabited  by 
wolves,  deer,  rattlesnakes,  &c. 

Sahhath  Day  Point. — Tiiis  is  a  low  neck  of  land, 
stretching  into  the  lake  from  the  Western  shore, 
and  containing  the  little  village  of  Hague.  That 
on  the  opposite  shore  is  Putnam. 

On  Sabbath  Day  Point,  Lord  Amherst,  with  his 
numerous  host,  stopped  for  refreshment  upon  the 
morning  of  the  Sabbath,  and  gave  this  beautiful 
point  the  name  by  which  it  is  now  known  ;  it  is  a 
charming  spot,  and  susceptible  of  the  greatest  em- 
bellishment. 

HoGERs'  Rock  and  Anthony's  Nose.  These 
are  two  mountains  at  which  the  lake  again  contracts 
itself  to  pass  between  them.  The  shores  of  the 
lake  still  continue  elevated, and  but  a  few  culti\  ated 
farms  are  distinguishable  here  and  there.  Antho- 
ny's Nose  presents  a  precipice,  on  the  eastern  shore, 
as  we  enter  the  strait ;  and  the  firing  of  a  gun 
produces  a  fine  echo.  Rogcr''s  Ruck  or  Roger^s 
/SlidCi  is  a  still  more  formidable  precipice,  on  the 
other  hand,  a  little  further  on.  The  last  retros- 
pect up  the  lake   is  still  very  line,  even  from  this 


1  i 


f 


LAKE    GroRuE. 


143 


the  wave, 


M 


o 

Eng,  Mag. 


D  widens  a- 
cral  tiiiles, 
lUainon  the 
lie  Luzerne 
kveeii  them. 
\y  rounded 
ces  broken 
habited    by 

pck  of  land, 
Item  shore, 


^uc. 


Tliat 


st,  with  his 
t  upon  the 
s  beautiful 
wn  ;  it  is  a 
reatcstcm- 


E.  These 
n  contracts 
jres  of  the 

culti\ated 
».  Antho- 
tern  shore, 
;  of  a  gun 
r  Roger'* s 
ice,  on  the 
ist   retros- 

from  this 


I 


f 


i  I 


point — niack    Mountain  being    yet   Cicurly  to  be 
seen. 

Jiogcrs^  Slide  has  its  name  frona  Capt.  Rogers, 
a  partisan  oHicer,  who  distinguished  hims(df  in  the 
French  war,  by  his  bohhiess,  activity,  and  success. 
lie  ronnnanded  nn  expedition  wliich  left  Crown 
Point  in  the  year  175G,  against  the  ('anadian  fron- 
tiers, and  cut  ofl'  the  Indian  village  of  St.  Franris, 
afterward  returningwith  the  severest  hardships, by 
the  way  of  Connecticut  River.  Tradition  says, 
that  hv^  was,  at  another  time,  closely  |)ursued  by  a 
parly  of  Indians,  and  forced  to  retreat  to  the 
verge  of  this  mountain.  Finding  no  other  way 
to  escape,  he  descended  half  down  by  the  ravine 
which  opens  towards  the  south,  and  then  by  a  sud- 
den turn  came  to  the  east  side,  where?  is  a  preci- 
pice about  two  hundred  feet  high  of  smooth  rock, 
and  nearly  perpendicular,  down  which  he  slipped 
upon  his  snow  shoes  to  the  lake,  escaping  upon  the 
ice.  The  water  is  deep  at  the  bottom,  and  fine 
trout  are  caught  there  with  a  long  line. 

The  lake  here  assumes  the  appearance  of  a  nar- 
row pond  for  three  or  four  miles,  and  seems  closed 
at  both  ends.  The  ground  is  still  elevated  on  both 
sides,  but  hills  have  succeeded  to  mountains,  and 
some  of  these  are  at  length  overtopped  by  Black 
Mountain.  The  lake  at  length  diminishes  to  a  very 
narrow  stream,  and  the  bottom  becomes  gradually 
covered  with  weeds. 

Lord  Howe^s  Landing  is  just  behind  an  island 
of  three  acres,  on  the  left-hand  at  the  entrance  of 
the  creek.  Here  is  the  spot  where  the  unfortu- 
nate expedition  of  Abercrombie  effected  their  land- 
ing, and  on  the  island  they  established  their  hos- 
pital, on  their  way  to  the  attack  of  Ticonderoga. 


I 


f 


141 


ROUTE    TO    CANADA. 


I 


"i! 


The  stcam?)oat  passes  on  Koinc  distance;  iioyond 
this  placo,  and  lands  !irr  pasNon^t  rs  oii  the  oth(^r 
side,  \vluM*(%  at  licr  r(*«ridar  v<»)  .io\  m,  'i^v'infrea  Rn- 
found  in  \vaitin<i[  to  convi^y  tlnni  tu  Ti< «  luleroga, 
thrrc  miles,  over  a  row^h  road. 

Those  who  intend  to  talv<^  a  steainhoat  on  Lake 
Chaniplain,  shonhl  l>e  rarefiil  to  in(iuirc  the  hoi;r 
when  it  passes,  and  rejriilalethcMr  time  aceordinjjriy. 
Tironderon^a  has  l)ecom<'  one?  of  the  sto])ping  phi- 
ces,  which  will  prove  a  ^rvixi  conveniei  ce  to  the 
numerous  travellers  attracted  to  this  interesting 
spot. 

Abercrombic'sarmy  pass(ul  for  some  part  of  the 
way  along  the  route  we  travel.  Passing  the  Up- 
per Fal!s,  which  are  the  liighest,  he  forded  the 
creek  above  the  second.  At  the  Falls  near  the 
bridge  which  we  cross,  just  above  the  sawmills, 
was  a  stone  blockhouse  ;  and  there  was  a  redoubt 
on  the  north  side  of  the  stream  near  the  bridge, 
wliere,  as  in  several  other  places,  th<  re  was  some 
fighting  to  carry  the  French  outposts. 

At  the  Upper  Falls  are  several  valuable  sawmills 
and  forges,  and  the  scenery  is  higlily  picturesque. 
The   Fortukss  of  Ticom>k«ioga. 

This  famous  old  fortress,  or  rather  its  remains, 
a^c  distinctly  seen  >Vom  Lake  Champlain,  though, 
from  the  direction  ^y  which  we  approach  it,  they 
ar'^  discovered  only  at  a  short  distance.  An  ele- 
vated piece  of  land,  gently  sloping  towards  the 
south,  and  ending  abruptly  over  a  bend  of  the  lake, 
appears,  partially  covered  with  trees,  and  crowned 
near  its  extremity  with  a  cluster  of  broken  walls 
and  chimneys. 

The  Old  French  Lines  where  General  Aber- 


istnnco  beyond 
rs  Oil  tlic    (>th(ir 

J   Ticriuloroga, 

iinbout  on  Lake 
Kjiiirc  the  hour 
me  arcordinjrly. 
le  stoj)j)ing  phi- 
(Miiei  ce  to  the 
this   interesting 

ome  part  of  the 
*assing   the  lip- 
he   forded   the 
Falls  near  the 
c  the  sawnjills, 
e  was  a  redoubt 
i'2r  the  bridge, 
lit  re   was  some 
sts. 

luable  sawmills 
y  picturesque. 

IK  HOG  A. 

litT  its  remains, 
Tiplain,  though, 
proach  it,  they 
ance.  An  ele- 
g  towards  the 
nd  of  the  lake, 
Is,  and  crowned 
If  broken  walls 

I  General  Aber- 


r' 


'i 


TICONDEROOA. 


145 


# 


crombie  was  defeated  in  1758,  are  the  only  part  of 
the  fortification  which  was  ever  the  scene  of  a  bat- 
tle. Tliey  commenced  on  the  east  side,  at  a  bat- 
tery of  heavy  cannon  on  the  shore,  about  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  south  of  the  ferry.  The  remains  of  the 
breastwork  can  yet  be  seen.  The  lines  were  drawn 
in  a  zig-zag  ;  first  stretching  off  to  the  right,  along 
the  side  of  marshy  ground  to  a  cluster  of  bushes 
where  was  a  battery;  and  then  to  the  left  to  the 
verge  of  a  wood,  where  was  another,  then  across 
the  ridge  of  land  at  its  highest  elevation,  over  to 
the  brow  of  a  steep  bnnk  looking  towards  the  out- 
let of  Lake  Geortre.  The  woods  that  now  so  much 
interrupt  the  sight,  have  grown  since  the  evacua- 
tion of  the  fortress,  after  the  revolutionary  war. 

There  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  near  the  west- 
ern part  of  the  French  lines,  where  a  bloody  en- 
gagement occurred  between  two  hostile  parties 
during  the  battle.  Bodies  of  men  have  been  dug 
up  hereabouts  within  a  few  years,  and  shot  were 
formerly  very  frequently  found  in  old  timber. 

Mount  Hope  is  a  hill  about  a  mile  north  from 
this  p>lace.  It  was  occupied  by  Gen.  Burgoyne's 
British  line,  which  formed  the  right  wing  on  his 
approach  to  Ticonderoga,  on  the  2d  of  June,  1777. 

In  proceeding  from  the  French  lines  south  to- 
wards the  fortress,  by  a  gentle  descent,  the  surface 
of  the  ground  appears  to  have  been  in  some  pla- 
ces smoothed  in  former  times  by  the  plough,  and 
by  the  removal  and  cutting  away  of  rocks,  to  ren- 
der it  convenient  for  the  evolutions  of  troops,  and 
the  use  of  artillery.  We  pass  ah  .  the  remains  of 
several  distinct  lines  of  small  redoubts,  placed  at 
equal  distances,  and  ranged  in  the  form  of  a  quin- 
cunx. 12* 


i: 


146 


nOUTK    TO    CAXADA. 


i"^i 


...  ;^i 


Tliore  arc  two  old  intrenchments,  270  and  150 
yards  from  the  fortress;  and  then  comes  the  edge 
of  the  outer  ditch  or  counterscarp,  where  was  a 
row  of  palisadoes.  Five  steps  more  bring  you  to 
the  walled  side  of  the  ditch,  which  is  still  eight  feet 
deep  in  some  places,  and  therefore  impassable  ex- 
cept where  it  has  been  partly  filled  up.  Its  breadth 
is  generally  about  8  or  9  yards,  and  the  wall  of  the 
fortress  on  the  other  side  in  some  places  20  or  25 
feet  high. 

The  fortress  is  of  an  angular  form,  and  embra- 
ces a  large  tract  of  ground,  being  divided  into  parts 
by  deep  ditches,  which  were  defended  by  cannon 
and  musketry,  and  added  very  much  to  the  secu- 
rity of  the  place.  The  communication  between 
these  different  parts  was  kept  up  by  stone  stair- 
cases, placed  in  convenient  positions  of  the  angles, 
all  so  calculated  as  to  make  the  descent  into  the 
ditches  and  the  ascent  circuitous  and  intricate,  and 
open  to  the  cannon  and  small  arms.  A  glance  at 
some  of  those  that  remain  will  show  the  plan. 
The  walls  were  originally  much  higher  than  at 
present,  being  raised  by  superstructures  of  logs 
filled  in  with  earth,  to  such  a  height  as  to  protect 
the  barracks. 

The  Barracks  formed  an  oblong,  and  the  walls 
still  remain  of  all  except  those  on  the  eastern  side. 
The  parade,  which  they  include,  appears  to  have 
been  formerly  carefully  smoothed.  This  area  is 
about  521  yards  long,  and  8  in  breadth.  The  bar- 
racks, &,c.,  are  built  of  the  rough  blue  limestone, 
of  the  neighboring  rocks,  two  stories  high;  and 
these,  with  the  chimneys,  several  of  which  are 
standing,  are  the  principal  objects  seen  from  a  dis- 


¥ 


'  i 


TICONDEROOA. 


147 


and  150 
the  edge 
;rc  was  a 
ng  you  to 
3ight  feet 
isable  ex- 
s  breadth 
all  of  the 

•20  or  25 

d  embra- 
into  parts 
y  cannon 
the  secu- 

between 
ne  stair- 
le  angles, 

into  the 
tcate,  and 

lance  at 

le  plan, 
than  at 
of  logs 

)  protect 


tance.  By  the  southern  entrance,  Ethan  Allen 
entered  with  his  83  raw  soldiers,  when  he  surpri- 
sed the  fortress  on  the  ]8th  May,  1775;  and  on 
reaching  the  court  yard  and  calling  on  the  com- 
mander to  surrender,  the  British  ofiicer,  Capt.  De- 
place,  made  his  appearance  at  a  window  and  sub- 
mitted, delivering  up  3  oilicers  and  44  rank  and 
file.  In  consequence  of  this  coup  de  main,  this 
important  place  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Ameri- 
cans until  the  arrival  of  Burgoyne,  in  1777. 

The  battlements  of  Ticonderoga  first  bore  the 
flag  of  independence.  This  circumstance  should 
of  itself  render  this  ruin,  so  fine  in  other  associa- 
tions, interesting  to  the  traveller. 

At  each  corner  was  a  bastion  or  a  demi-bastion; 
and  under  that  in  the  nonh-eastern  one  is  a  sub- 
terranean apnrlmcnt,  the  access  to  which  is 
through  a  small  enfra?ire  near  that  corner  o(  the 
court  yard.  It  communicates  with  two  magazines 
at  the  further  end  :  that  on  the  left,  which  is  the 
larger,  being  19  or  20  feet  long.  The  room  is 
also  arched,  measures  about  35  feet  in  length,  21 
in  breadth,  and  10  or  11  in  height,  and  like  the 
magazines  was  bomb  proof.  The  cellars  south  of 
this,  which  belonged  to  the  demolished  buildings, 
and  are  almost  filled  up,  have  a  room  or  two  with 
fireplaces  still  distinguishable. 

The  Grenadiers'  Battery.  This  important 
outwork  is  situated  on  a  rocky  point  towards  the 
east  from  the  main  fortress.  They  were  connec- 
ted by  a  covered  way,  the  traces  of  which  are 
distinctly  visible.  It  was  surrounded  by  a  wall 
faced  with  stone,  with  five  sides,  one  of  which 
measures   about  180  feet;  but   that  towards   the 


i 


us 


ROUTE    TO    CANADA. 


f  iH 


lake  has  been  undermined  by  time,  and  slipped 
down  the  bank.  The  remaining  parts  are  nearly 
entire,  and  about  10  feet  high. 

Still  in  advance  of  the  Grenadiers'  Battery  is  a 
amall  work  of  earth,  which  might  have  contained 
five  or  six  guns;  while  in  front  of  it,  and   on  the 


til 


to 


extreme  point,  two  t 
have  been  placed  between  the  rocks,  to  fire  down 
upon  the  water,  about  40  feet  below.  A  little 
further  east,  and  under  the  bank,  is  an  old  s'one 
house,  formerly  a  store  belonging  to  the  fort,  :mI'\ 
now  occupied  by  the  tenant  of  Mr.  Pel!,  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  whole  peninsula  of  Ticonderoga. 
On  a  spot  formerly  occu[)ie(l  as  the  King^s  Gar- 
den,  Mr.  P.  has  a  fine  garden,  abounding  in  the 
choicest  fruits  import;*(l  from  Kurop?,  and  trans- 
ported from  the  celebrated  nurseries  of  Long  Isl- 
and. If  it  is  the  intention  of  the  traveller  to  cross 
the  lake,  to  the  neighboring  Vermont  shore,  where 
are  still  some  slight  remains  of  Burgoyne's  in- 
trenchments,  he  will  be  much  pleased  with  a  walk 
across  the  meadows  to  the  upper  ferry,  a  distance 
of  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile. 

Between  the  Grenadiers'  Battery  and  the  for- 
tress, the  shore  retains  traces  of  many  little  ter- 
races, breastworks,  and  buildings,  such  as  were 
probably  workshops,  barracks,  stores,  &,c. 

The  great  mountain,  which  rises  dark  and  ab- 
ruptly from  the  opposite  shore,  is 

Mount  Defiance,  about  BOO  feet  high,  on  the 
summit  of  which  Gen.  Burgoyne's  troops  showed 
themselves  on  the  morning  of  July  4th,  1777, 
with  a  battery  of  heavy  cannon,  which  they  had 
drawn  up  along  the  ridge  by  night,   and  on   the 


W 


MOUNT    INDEPENDENCE. 


149 


d   slipped 
lire  nearly 

ittery  is  a 
contained 

nd   on  the 

appear  to 

fire  down 

A  little 

i  old  s*one 

3   fort,    hiV\ 

I!,  the  pro- 
londeroga. 
ng^s  Gar' 
inir   in  the 
and  trans- 
Long  Isl- 
ler  to  cross 
ore,  where 
oyne's   in- 
ith  a  walk 
a  distance 

1    the   for- 
litlle  ter- 
as  were 

and   ab- 

on   the 

)S  showed 

hh,    ^777, 

they  had 

on    the 


firing  of  a  few  shots  by  the  British  upon  a  vessel 
in  the  lake,  which  proved  the  range  of  their  guns, 
the  Americans  made  pre])arations  to  evacuate  the 
place,  and  ellectcd  their  retreat  to  the  opposite 
shore  during  the  night. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Defiance  is  laborious,  but 
the  view  is  extremely  fine  from  its  summit.  There 
are  the  remains  of  Burgoync's  battery,  with  holes 
drilled  in  the  rocks  for  blasting,  and  the  marks  of 
a  large  blockhouse. 

Mount  Independence  is  a  hill  of  comparatively 
small  elevation  cast  of  Mount  Defiance,  and  sep- 
arated from  it  by  tlie  lake,  which  avls  there  redu- 
ced its  size  to  that  of  a  small  rive^'.  On  a  bank, 
just  above  the  water,  are  the  remains  of  a  zig-za^^' 
battery  for  about  40  or  50  guns,  running  across  a 
little  cornfield  behind  a  house,  and  making  five  or 
six  angles.  The  Horse-shoe  Battery  is  traceable 
on  an  elevation  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  the 
rear.  A  bridge  once  connected  Ticonderoga  with 
Mount  Defiance,  the  buttresses  of  which  are  re- 
maining, to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  navigators 
of  the  lake;  the  steamboat  passes  to  the  south  of 
them.  On  the  west  shore  (near  the  stone  store- 
house,) Arnold,  when  pursued  by  the  British,  cau- 
sed his  flotilla  to  be  run  on  shore.  These  hulks 
remain  almost  as  sound  as  when  first  stranded. 
A  forty-two  pounder  is  said  to  have  ranged  from 
the  Horseshoe  over  this  channel  (now  marked  by 
a  buoy)  and  the  fortress. 

After  the  Revolutionary  war  about  500  cannon 
were  lying  about  tht  fortress,  lines,  &c.  many  of 
them  as  left  by  the  English  with  their  trunnions 
Hnockied  ofl^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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ROUTE    TO    CANADA 


■  4  [9      ,* 

ill 


The  mountainous  region  on  the  west  side  of  the 
hike  abounds  with  deer,  and  considerable  numbers 
are  killed  every  season. 
The  JPassage  from  Ticonderoga  down  Lake 

Champlain 
is  very  pleasant,    abounding,    the   greater  part  of 
the  way  to  Canada,  with  fine  natural  scenes. 

The  improvements  produced  in  the  country  en- 
closing Lake  Champlain,  by  the  establishment  of 
steamboats  and  the  opening  of  the  Northern  Ca- 
nal, have  been  very  great.  The  produce  former- 
ly sent  southward  was  necessarily  subject  to  heavy 
expenses  of  transportation ;  while  the  merchan- 
dise brought  in  return  was  liable  to  delay,  uncer- 
tainty, injuries  by  land  carriage,  and  exposure  to 
the  weather  and  to  pilferers,  which  are  obviated, 
and  these  circumstances,  it  is  well  known,  produce 
powerful  effects.  The  towns  on  the  lake,  five  or 
six  years  ago,  were  ill  supplied  with  merchandise, 
which  is  now  found  in  abundance  and  cheap. 
Some  of  them  have  more  than  doubled  their  size 
since  1822,  and  numerous  villages  have  sprung  up 
into  activity  and  thrift  from  almost  nothing.  New 
roads  have  also  been  made  into  the  interior,  and 
mills  have  been  erected  on  the  tributary  streams 
for  cutting  up  the  supplies  of  valiable  timber  in 
the  forests.  In  the  two  townships  of  Crown 
Point  anJ  Moriah,  there  are  about  60  lumber  mills, 
which  will  be  able  to  furnish  a  million  of  pieces 
of  timber.  They  contain  also  vast  beds  of  iron 
ore,  for  which  forges  and  furnaces  have  been 
erected.  The  iron  region  lies  between  the  lake 
und  the  north-eastern  branch  of  the  Hudson, 
ivhich  heads  6  miles  west  of  it.     At  Swanton,  Vt., 


( 


LAKE    CHAMPLAIN. 


151 


)f  the 
[ibers 

Lake 

irt  of 

•y  en- 
ent  of 
•n  Ca- 
rmer- 
heavy 
•chan- 
iincer- 
ure  to 
dated, 
roduce 
five  or 
ndise, 
heap, 
r  size 
ngup 
New 
f  and 
reams 
ber  in 
irown 
mills, 
ieces 
[f  iron 
been 
lake 
dson, 
,Vt., 


I 


are  quarries  of  dove-colored  and  black  marble, 
where  300  saws  are  kept  at  work.  It  is  carried 
to  New-York  in  conriidcrable  quantities. 

Great  numbers  of  small  schooners  navigate  the 
waters  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  within  a  few 
years  numerous  canal  boats,  some  of  them  fitted 
with  masts  for  schooners  for  sailing.  Annesley's 
mode  of  building  vessels  has  been  adopted  here 
to  some  extent,  in  which  timbers  are  discarded, 
and  hulls  formed  of  inch  boards  running  in  seve- 
ral thicknesses,  and  in  cross  directions. 

Only  about  20  vessels  sailed  on  this  lake  before 
the  canal  was  opened  to  the  Hudson. 

Five  Mile  Point  was  the  landing  place  of  Gen. 
Burgoyne's  expedition,  as  already  mentioned^ 
Mountains  appear  in  the  uest  and  north-west,  with 
occasional  intervals  all  the  way  up  to  Crown 
Point;  while  in  the  north  is  a  lofty  and  imposing 
range,  with  two  or  three  pe  ikj?  almost  buld  from 
the  height  of  their  elevation.  Summits  multiply 
as  we  proceed,  and  distant  mountains  arise  also  in 
the  north-east;  while  Mount  Defiance  and  other 
eminences  towards  the  south  bound  the  view  in 
that  direction.  There  are  scattering  farms  and 
houses  on  both  shores. 

There  are  many  fish  caught  in  some  parts  of  the 
lake.  The  shores  are  in  this  part  strewed  with 
the  fragments  of  blue  limestone  rock  with  orga- 
nic remains.  The  immediate  shores  are  generally 
low  all  the  way  to  Crown  Point,  where  the  lake 
suddenly  turns  to  the  west  at  a  right  angle,  and  at 
the  distance  of  a  mile  as  suddenly  to  the  north 
again.  A  low  stretch  of  land,  covered  with  a 
young  forest  on  the  left,  conceals  the  approach  to 


mi 

ml. 

i 


i  (] 


■■■;■, 


mtm 


152 


ROUTE    TO    CANADA. 


I 


■rM 


this  ancient  fortress,  which,  for  position  as  we)l 
as  a  pearance  and  history,  may  be  called  the  twin 
sister  of  Ticonderoga. 

Chimney  Point,  where  the  steamboat  often  re- 
ceives and  lands  passengers,  is  on  the  north  side 
of  the  lake,  with  a  large  public  house  in  a  pleas- 
ant situation ;  and  here  is  the  place  to  stop,  if  the 
traveller  intends  to  visit  Crown  Point,  which  is 
opposite,  across  a  ferry  |  of  a  mile. 

The  Fortress  of  Crown  Point. 

There  are  several  old  works  thrown  up  along 
the  shore,  with  little  bays  between  them.  The 
easternmost  is  called  the  Grenadiers'  Battery,  the 
middle  one  is  the  original  old  French  fort  of  1731, 
and  now  encloses  a  garden  ;  and  that  further  west 
is  an  outwork  to  a  bastion  of  the  fortress. 

The  fortress  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  shore,  showing  the  walls  and  chimneys  of  the 
old  barracks,  and  walls  of  earth  surrounding 
them.  The  fortress  of  Crown  Point  was  a  star 
work,  being  in  the  form  of  a  pentagon,  with  bas- 
tions at  the  angles,  and  a  strong  redoubt  at  the 
distance  of  250  or  300  yards  in  advance  of  each 
of  them.  The  fortress  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch 
walled  in  with  stone,  except  where  it  has  been 
blasted  into  the  solid  rock  of  blue  limestone,  (as 
is  the  case  in  many  parts,  from  five  to  twenty-five 
feet,)  and  even  into  the  quartz  rock  which  under- 
lays it*  Univalve  shells  are  found  in  the  limestone 
rock,  frequently  four  inches  in  diameter.  The 
walls  are  about  20  or  25  feet  high,  and  there  is  a 
convenient  path  running  entirely  round  upon  the 
top,  interrupted  only  by  the  gates  at  the  north  and 
south  sides.     Although  much   shaded  by  tall  sn- 


I 


CROWN    POINT. 


153 


as  well 
he  twin 

iften  re- 
rth  side 
a  pleas- 
p,  if  the 
whicli  is 


'P 


m. 


along 

The 

tery,  the 

of  1731, 

iher  west 


)r 


nile  from 
j's  of  the 
rounding 
s  a  star 
ith  bas- 
bt  at  the 
of  each 
a  ditch 
as  been 
tone,  (as 
enty-five 
h  tinder- 
mestone 
r.     The 
ere  is  a 
pon  the 
orth  and 
tall  sn- 


1 


macs,  some  fine  views  are  enjoyed  in  making  the 
circuit,  which  is  not  far  short  of  half  a  mile. 

Opposite  the  north  gate  is  a  small  ledge  of 
rocks;  and  close  by,  the  remains  of  a  covered  or 
subterraneous  way  to  the  lake  shore.  On  enter- 
ing the  fortress,  the  stranger  finds  himself  in  a 
level,  spacious  area,  bounded  on  the  left,  and  in 
from,  by  long  ruinous  buildings  of  stone,  two 
stories  high,  and  the  first  220  feet  long,  while  the 
ruins  of  similar  ones  are  seen  on  two  sides  on  the 
right.  This  parade  is  about  500  feet  in  length. 
The  place  was  surprised  by  Col.  Warner  in  1775. 

The  view  from  the  walls  towards  the  north  is 
very  fine :  looking  down  the  lake,  which  widens 
at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  you  have 
Chimney  Point  on  the  right,  and  two  other  Points 
projecting  beyond  the  distant  peak,  called  CameVs 
Hump,  A  range  of  mountains  on  the  western 
shore,  beginning  at  the  distance  of  18  miles,  in- 
cluding Bald  Peak,  gradually  approach  till  they 
form  a  near  and  bold  boundary  to  the  lake  on  the 
left,  scattered  with  cleared  farms  and  houses,  and 
then  stretching  away  to  the  south,  terminate  in 
the  mountain,  behind.  This  elevation,  although 
it  seams  almost  as  well  calculated  to  command 
Crown  Point  as  Mount  Defiance  does  Ticondero- 
ga,  is  rot  less  than  four  miles  distant. 

Every  thing  about  this  old  fortress  bears  the 
marks  of  ruin.  Two  magazines  were  blown  up; 
the  timbers  in  the  south  barracks  are  burnt  black; 
while  some  of  the  entrances  and  other  parts  are 
fenced  up  for  a  sheep  fold.  The  ground  around 
it  is  much  covered  with  fragments  of  blasted  rocks, 
and,  particularly  at  the  south,  with  the  ruins  of  old 

13 


l    if: 


;    k,  ji] 


i  ', 


f. 


154 


ROUTE    TO    CANADA. 


buildings.  The  trees  which  are  seen  have  grown 
since  the  evacuation  of  the  phice  ;  and  on  one  of 
the  angles  is  an  inscription  ol'  the  date  of  the  for- 
tress:  1750. 

In  1776,  the  British  had  a  fleet  on  liake  Cham- 
plain,  composed  of  the  following  vessels  :  ship  In- 
flexible, Capt.  Pringle,  carrying  18  twelve-ponnd- 
ers ;  two  schooners,  one  with  14.  the  other  with 
12  six-poiinders ;  a  flat-bottomed  radeau  with  6 
twenty-fours  and  G  twelves ;  and  20  small  craft, 
each  carrying  a  gun  from  nine  to  twenty-four 
pounders,  and  several  long-boats,  besides  boats  for 
baggage  stores,  &.c. 

The  Americans  had  only  2  brigs,  1  corvette,  1 
sloop,  3  galleys,  and  8  gondolas,  the  largest  ves- 
sel carrying  only  12  six  and  four  pounders.  These 
were  under  the  command  of  Arnold,  who  drew 
them  up  between  the  island  of  Valincourt  and  the 
western  shore,  where  they  were  attacked.  They 
fought  four  hours,  and  the  Britisli  retreated;  but 
while  making  his  way  towards  Crown  Point,  Ar- 
nold was  overtaken,  and  nearly  all  the  squadron 
fled  up  the  lake,  passing  this  place  which  ^vas 
evacuated.  Arnold  remained  fiohtinff  as  lonff  as 
possible,  and  did  not  leave  his  vessel  until  she  had 
taken  fire. 

On  making  a  signal  at  the  ferry  to  the  steam- 
boat, she  will  stop  and  send  for  a  passenger. 
Proceeding  down  tlie  lake,  the  breadth  of  it  soon 
increases,  and  at  the  two  islands  on  the  right  it  is 
about  H  miles  across.     A  little  furtlier  is 

Put-in-Bayj  on  the  eastern  shore,  with  an  island 
of  the  same  name.  A  little  north  of  this  is  a 
small  island  on  the  right,  with  three  bushes  on  it, 


( 


j 

I 


^' 


LAKE    CIIAMPLAIN. 


155 


.::1,'' 


c  grown 
1  one  of 
the  lor- 

Cham- 
ship  In- 
>poiind- 
icr  with 

with  6 
ill  craft, 
nty-four 
)oats  for 

vettc,    1 

^est  ves- 

These 

no  drew 

and  the 

They 

ed ;  but 

nt,  Ar- 

uadron 

A\   was 

ong  as 

?he  had 

steam- 
senger. 
it  soon 
ht  it  is 


s 


island 
is  a 
on  it, 


which  has  hence  obtained  the  name  of  the  Scotch 
Bonnet,  Looking  sonth  the  lakn  presents  a  hne 
expanse,  extending  almost  to  Crown  Point,  with 
Buld  Peak  conspicuous  on  the  right. 

Basin  Harbor  is  a  stopping  place.  Tt  is  very 
small,  with  room  for  only  3  or  4  vessels.  At  a 
great  distance  in  the  N.  E.  is  seen  the  Caniel's 
Hump:  further  north  a  high  mountain  in  Hali- 
fax, Vt. 

Sloop  Island  17  miles  from  Burlington,  is  low 
in  the  middle,  and  contains  several  trees,  which 
look  not  unlike  masts.  It  was  mistaken  for  a 
sloop  in  a  misty  day,  in  the  Revolutionary  or 
French  war,  and  fired  upon  by  a  vessel,  whence 
its  name. 

At  Hartford  the  lake  suddenly  opens  to  the 
breadth  of  several  miles,  and  a  new  scene  is  pre- 
sented to  vi(  ,v.  On  the  west  side  is  a  rounded 
island  covered  with  pine  trees,  like  much  of  the 
shore  previously  seen,  and  separated  from  the 
mainland  only  by  a  narrow  rent  of  about  fifteen 
feet.  Apparently  just  within  this  aperture  is  a 
rude  arch  of  rock,  like  the  remains  of  an  ancient 
bridge.  A  beautiful  bay  makes  up  behind  the 
island,  of  which  a  glimpse  is  caught  in  passing; 
and  a  little  further  north  it  opens  beautifully  to 
view,  with  a  smooth  declining  shore  cultivated  for 
several  miles;  while  a  blue  ranjre  of  the  Allegha- 
nies  rises  behind  them,  like  the  Catskill  Moun- 
tains seen  from  the  city  of  Hudson. 

On  the  eastern  side,  the  Green  Mountains  tower 
at  a  distance  over  the  wild,  uncultivated  shore, 
till  a  cluster  of  white  buildings  is  discovered  form- 
ing the  little  village  of  Charlotte  or  M'Neil's  Fer- 


r      'I  , 


,*.  t 


156 


ROUTE    TO    CANADA. 


•)i- 


ry,  which  ia  backed  by  a  feiv  fields  and  orchards. 
Further  north  the  shores  aie  rockv,  and  rise  ab- 
ruptly  from  the  water. 

BURLINGTON,  75  miles  from  Whitehall^ 
This  is  the  largest  town  on  Lake  Chaniplali:  and 
is  situated  in  a  commanding  as  well  as  a  deliglit- 
ful  position.  The  lake  suddenly  widens  as  you 
approach  it  from  tho  south,  and  a  fine  semicircular 
bay  puts  up  to  it  from  the  west,  surrounded  by  a 
crescent  of  high  ground,  under  the  shelter  of  which 
the  town  is  situated.  The  view  from  the  top  of 
the  hills  is  truly  admirable ;  embracing  in  the 
foreground  the  elegant  gardens  of  some  of  the 
wealthier  inhabitants,  with  the  streets  of  Burling- 
ton below,  the  curving  form  of  the  bay,  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  lake,  htire  ten  miles  across,  and  a 
noble  chain  of  distant  blue  mountains  on  the  op- 
posite side.     The  college  has  been  rebuilt. 

[The  road  to  Windsor,  by  the  Gulf  is  \^ry  good 
and  interesting.  The  road  to  Montreal  passes 
Swanton,  St.  Alban's,  &;c.  The  lake  is  occa- 
sionally insight;  and  for  a  distance  of  six  miles, 
round  the  head  of  Missiscoui  Bay,  the  road  runs 
along  the  shore.  At  that  place  vast  quantities  of 
lumber  are  annually  collected.] 

Port  Kent  is  a  small  village  on  the  western 
snore,  16  miles  from  Burhngton.  It  was  begun 
in  1824,  as  a  port  to  the  iron  works  a  little  back 
in  the  country,  where  is  a  vast  quantity  of  ore. 

PLATTSBURGH,  8  W77e5.— This  is  a  town  of 
considerable  importance,  on  the  banks  of  the  Sa- 
ranac,  and  just  behind  the  high  and  steep  bank  of 
the  lake,  on  which  is  a  line  of  forts  erected  for 
the  defence  of  the  place.     The  town   commands 


i 


i 


ROUSliVs    POINT. 


157 


rchards. 
rise  ab- 

ehalL  — 
ah:  and 
deligiit- 
as  you 
[circular 
td  by  a 
)f  which 
e  top  of 
;  in  the 
B  of  the 
Burling- 
le  whole 
a,  and  a 
the  op- 
t. 

3ry  good 

passes 

lis   occa- 

X  miles, 

d   runs 

tities  of 

Iwestern 
begun 
,Ie  back 
ore. 
Itown  of 
the  Sa- 
Ibank  of 
ted  for 
mauds 


i 


i 


) 


H 


a  fine  view.     There  arc  some  remark  able  Water' 
falls  on  the  Sjiranac. 

Thk  Battle  of  Plattsburgii. — While  Gen. 
Macon. b  was  stationed  at  Plattsburgh,  during  the 
last  war,  Sir  George  Provost  came  from  Canada 
with  an  army,  and  occupying  the  village,  stood 
ready  to  attack  the  American  troops,  who  were  in 
pos?ition  on  the  elevated  ground,  between  the  e«ist 
bank  of  tlie  Saranac  and  the  precipitous  shore  of 
the  lake.  Com.  M'Donough  was  on  the  lake  with 
the  American  squadron;  and  hearing  of  the  ap- 
proach of  Capt.  Dovvnie  with  the  British  ships, 
extended  his  line  between  Hospital  Island  and 
Cumberland  Head,  where  he  received  and  fought 
the  enemy,  with  such  success  as  to  capture  all  his 
vessels.  The  action  continued  two  hours  and  20 
mirnites,  and  was  performed  in  full  sight  of  the  ar- 
mies. Capt.  Downie's  ship,  the  Confiance,  had 
105  shot  in  her  hull,  and  the  Saratoga  69,  and  was 
twice  on  fire,  i'his  battle  caused  the  retreat  of 
Prevost,  and  relieved  that  part  of  the  country  from 
the  danorer  of  bein^  overrun. 

]\'b  Donougli' s  far ni  on  that  part  of  Cumberland 
Head  which  is  opposite  the  scene  of  his  battle, 
consists  of  200  acres.  It  was  presented  to  him 
by  the  legislature  of  Vermont,  in  gratitude  for  his 
victory. 

CHAZY,  \5  miles.  Rouse's  Point,  12  miles. — 
There  is  a  village  by  this  name,  on  the  western 
side;  and  a  mile  beyond  it, 

The  Fort,  which  is  a  kind  of  castle,  built  of  hewn 
stone,  with  perpendicular  walls,  and  three  tiers  of 
embrasures.  It  stands  at  the  end  of  a  low  point, 
and  was  built  to  command  the  passage  of  the  lake 

13* 


M 


!     ^1 


'*  u 


'    ! 


iV 


li 


■i*-'  it 


1 


MH^ 


]58 


ROUTE    TO    CANAt)A. 


*'1 

■ft  I 
'  - .'  .1 

I. 


Iff 


pt 


during  the  last  war.  On  running  the  line  of  the 
United  States  and  Canada,  tlic  commissioners  at 
first  fixed  the  boundary  a  little  south  of  this  place, 
so  as  to  bring  the  fort  within  the  limits  of  the  lat- 
ter; but  in  consequence  of  the  line  agreed  on  by 
the  treaty  coming  too  near  Quebec,  it  was  deter- 
mined that  an  arrangement  should  be  made  for  the 
benefit  of  both  parties  ;  and  the  boundary  has  been 
left  in  its  former  place.  An  opening  through  the 
woods,  like  a  road,  marks  the  place,  about  half  a 
mile  north  of  the  fort. 

The  country  hereabouts  is  very  uninteresting : 
for  the  level  country  has  begun  which  extends  far 
into  Canada,  The  appearance  of  the  banks  is 
quite  uniform;  they  being  low,  and  in  many  pla- 
ces almost  overflown    by  the  waters  of  the   lake. 

Isle  aux  Noix,  11  miles. — This  is  the  English 
frontier  post,  and  has  been  chosen  with  judgment; 
as  although  the  ground  is  of  hardly  any  elevation, 
it  is  higher  than  any  in  the  neighborhood  ;  and 
the  island  is  so  situated  as  partly  to  occupy  the 
channel,  and  entirely  to  command  it. 

There  is  a  long  wall  and  battery  on  the  south 
side,  with  angles;  beyond  which  are  seen  a  large 
stone  building,  and  the  roofs  of  others  on  the  left 
and  right  of  it,  forming  the  storehouses,  &c.  of  the 
post.  The  channel  is  on  the  east  side,  and  very 
narrow,  faced  for  a  considerable  distance  by 
another  battery.  Sentries  are  posted  in  different 
places.  The  ship-yard  succeeds,  and  the  ofl^cers' 
quarters,  generally  neat  one  story  buildings,  with 
little  gardens  tastefully  laid  out.  Here  is  a  land- 
ing place  in  the  Chinese  style.  A  large  stockaded 
hospital  succeeds,  with  a  large  arch  raised  on  the 


St.    JOHN  S. 


159 


c  of  the 
loners  ut 
lis  place, 
r  the  lat- 
(1  on  by 
IS  deter- 
e  fur  the 
has  been 
ough  the 
ut  half  a 

cresting : 
lends  far 
banks  is 
any  pla- 
he  lake. 
!  English 
dgment ; 
levation, 
od  ;  and 
upy  the 

e  south 
a  large 
the  left 
;c.  of  the 
|nd  very 
nee  by 
piflTerent 
lofficers' 
fs,  with 
la  land- 
)ckaded 
on  the 


I     w 


1 


shore,  bearing  the  royal  erown.  The  little  cabins 
are  the  oldiers'  quarters,  and  some  of  them  are 
neat,  and  ornamented  \\  illi  tlovvers. 

The  expedition  against  Canada,  in  1775,  con- 
sisted of  two  divisions:  one  of  3000  Ncnv-Kngland 
and  Nevv-Yoik  sohiiers,  under  Generals  Schuyler 
and  Montgomery,  ])rocieded  down  lake  (^ham- 
plain  in  rafts,  from  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point, 
and  took  position  at  Isle  aux  Noix.  The  other, 
which  was  planned  and  despatched  subsequently, 
under  Gc;n.  Arnold,  proceeded  through  the  wil- 
derness, in  the  District  of  Maine,  for  Quebec. 
The  former  division,  after  a  little  delay,  proceed- 
ed to  St,  John's.  They  afterward  formed  at  this 
place  a  chevaux-de-frieze  in  the  river. 

Beyond,  the  shores  continue  low  and  uninterest- 
ing,  with  numerous  cabins  of  settlers  near  the 
water,  the  forest  encroaching  to  within  a  short 
distance  behind. 

St.  John's,  10  miles. — Here  the  steamboat 
stops  at  the  head  of  the  rapids,  and  at  the  end  of 
navigation.  Stage  coaches  take  passengers  to 
Montreal  (16  miles  by  land,  and  9  by  water,  on  the 
St.  Lawrence,  in  a  steamboat.) 

The  village  presents  nothing  worthy  of  particu- 
lar attention,  except  as  the  scene  of  some  military 
deeds,  connected  with  the  expedition  of  General 
Montgomery  against  this  country.  While  the  con- 
tinental troops  were  stationed  at  Jsle  aux  Noix,  in 
1775,  Generals  Montgomery  and  Schuyler  invest- 
ed the  fort,  which  contained  a  garrison  of  5  or 
600  troops,  besides  200  Canadians,  and  was  com- 
manded by  Major  Preston.  The  siege  lasted  six 
weeks,  and  they  did  not  capitulate  till  some  time 


0    \  tf 


tSHttr 

'  'i  .'4 
'■■  -^  '  ■1 

'J  'I 


y 


ft 


f< 


r  i 


IGO 


ROUTE    TO    CANADA. 


m 


\ 


\  1 

ji 

»■    9 

i. 

y 

1 

1 

■■ 

aftor  tlie  smrcndcu*  of  (^liiimhly,  nor  liil  tlio  Aincr* 
icuiis  had  l)j()U<4lit  tluir  IiumicIk's  to  the  walls  of 
thi;  fort.  'I'Imy  tht'n  ohlaiiu'd  possession  of  17 
brass  pieces,  ii'4  iron,  7  uiorlara,  with  bulls,  bombs, 

The  ('anadiau  money  is  dilVcrent  from  that  of 
tlu;  Ihiited  Slales  ;  l)nt  in  conseiinenei;  of  the  con- 
tinual intercourse,  the  latter  passes  currently. 
Nine  sous  or  coppers,  (which  are  of  various  and 
SonuUimes  curious  stamps,)  (M[ual  six  cents.  Two 
sous  nearly  \(L  and  *^()  cents  a  shilliiijij. 

The  pleasantest  road  from  St.  John's  to  Mon.^ 
trcal,  is  by  CluMubly,  and  Lonirucil. 

Leaving  St.  .lohn's  for  Montreal,  by  Laprairic, 
the  road  |)asses  about  a  mile  alonj^  the  western 
shore  of  the  Kiver  Richelieu,  which  sometimes 
takes  the  names  of  8t.  John's  and  Sorel,  in  conse- 
quence of  its  running  by  those  towns.  Several 
mountains  arc  in  sight,  as  Belcjeil,  liuucliervillc, 
&c. 

The  Rapids  may  be  regarded  as  a  specimen,  on 
a  small  scale,  of  the  numerous  rapids  in  the  St» 
Lawrence,  which  will  hereafter  excite  the  interest, 
if  not  the  apprehension,  of  the  stranger.  The  bed 
of  the  Richelieu  has  a  rapid  descent  in  several  pla- 
ces, where  it  comes  immediately  under  observa- 
tion, and  becomes  so  shallow  as  to  be  passable, 
even  for  the  flattest  boats,  only  during  the  floods. 
In  the  summer  it  is  generally  only  a  few  inches 
deep,  and  the  surface  is  broken  by  numerous 
stones  of  all  sizes,  and  here  and  there  by  little  wa- 
terfalls near  the  shore.  At  the  same  time  the 
banks  are  low  and  flat;  the  houses  of  one  floor, 
white-washed,  and  built  at  nearly  equal  distances, 


LOWKK     CANADA, 


161 


iio  Aiuor* 

walls  of 

on  of  17 

3,  bombs, 

n  that  of 
'  the  coii- 
urrciitly. 
ions  aiui 
ts.    Two 

to  Mon- 

laprairie, 

WCStClM 

Miictimcs 

in  CO  use - 

Several 

•hervilic, 

nen,  oa 
the  St> 
ntercst, 
The  bed 
eral  pla- 
bKserva- 
assable, 
floods, 
inches 
merous 
ttle  wa- 
me  the 
i  floor, 
tanccs, 


I 


{ 


facing  the  river;  and,  in  short,  the  general  cliar- 
arter  of  a  scene  on  the  St.  lja\\renre,  may  he  ima- 
g\\\v.{\  from  a  view  here,  by  making  allowance  for 
its  size  and  fertility. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  make  a  canal  to  the  St. 
Lawrence  ;  but  it  is  said  ihaX  th»i  channel  of  the 
St.  John's  might  be  iniproved,  by  stone  walls  to 
confine  the  water  over  tliese  rapids.  The  <>ham- 
bly  rai)ids  might  be  j)assed  by  a  short  canal;  and 
the  only  remaining  obstructions  till  those  at  the 
nioulli  ar(^  at  St.  TluMese  anti  Mille  Roches. 

The  inhabitants  along  tlie  road  j)resent  the  as- 
pect of  foreigners,  in  dress,  countenance,  manners, 
customs,  and  language.  Their  fashions  are  an- 
tique, and  many  of  them  have  not  been  changed 
for  ages  :  The  men  wear  the  Canadian  jacket,  cap, 
or  hat,  red  sash,  and  moccasin  of  rough  leather. 
The  women  work  laboriously  in  the  field,  and  all 
of  them  speak  French,  generally  without  know- 
ing a  word  of  any  other  language.  The  farms 
will  be  observed,  laid  out  in  strips  of  1  or  200 
acres,  flat,  broad,  and  1,  2,  or  even  3  miles  in 
length  ;  and  the  system  of  farming  is  extremely 
bad,  as  will  be  discovered  at  once,  by  the  acres 
that  are  consiijned  to  the  useless  and  destructive 
little  Canada  Thistle.  There  is  no  such  thing 
known  here  as  the  doctrine  of  a  rotation  of  crops, 
and  land  is  recovered  to  fertility  by  lying  fallow, 
except  that  lately  the  use  of  manure  has  begun  to 
be  resorted  to  in  -a  small  degree.  The  horses  are 
of  a  small  breed,  well  known  in  the  northern  states 
by  the  name  of  the  country.  They  are  small,  but 
powerful,  hardy,  and  treated  with  great  care. 
Many  of  them  are  driven  across  the  line,  and  large 


In 


I  it 


i-    II 


11 


III 


[<      M 


I       .1 


162 


RIVER    ST.    LAWRENCE. 


horses  introduced  into  the  towns  in  return.  The 
value  of  a  common  Canadiyn  horse  is  about ^40; 
and  of  a  good  one  $6u.  The  land  titles  have  been 
extremely  doubtful. 

There  is  littU;  encouragement  to  settlers,  12  per 
cent,  is  payable  to  the  Seigneur,  on  sales  of  real 
estate,  besides  other  heavy  taxes  of  different  de- 
scriptions. The  landscape  is  unvarying;  the  in- 
habitants, as  well  as  the  soil,  are  poor  ;  and  there 
is  nothing  that  deserves  the  name  of  a  village.  In 
many  cases  land  of  exactly  the  same  description 
is  worth  from  10  to  15  shillings  an  acre  on  the 
Vermont  and  New-York  side  of  the  line,  and  only 
1  shilling  on  the  Canada  side.  We  pass  a  house 
now  and  then,  dignified  by  a  tall  pole  or  mast  rais- 
ed in  front  oi  it,  which  is  a  singular  mark  of  dis- 
tinction conceded  to  officers  of  militia,  and  usually 
adopted  by  those  of  the  lowest  grades. 

The  people  appear  very  happy,  and  have  healthy 
countenances,  inclining  to  round  faces  and  thick 
lips.  Their  aspect  denotes  a  want  of  education, 
which  is  the  real  cause  of  the  backward  condition 
of  society  in  Canada.  They  are  all  Catholics  ; 
and  the  churches  seen  here  and  there  upon  the 
road,  are  devoted  to  the  service  of  the  Romish 
church. 

The  Half-Way  House  is  generally  r  opped  at 
only  a  few  minutes.  The  land  is  divided  in  some 
places  by  ditches  round  the  farms. 

One  of  the  most  singular  traits  in  the  domestic 
arrangements  of  the  Canadians,  is  building  the 
oven  not  onlyoi^t  of  doors,  like  the  Dutch,  but  di- 
rectly over  the  pig  sty. 

The  mountain  from  which  the  city  of  Montreal 


I 


LAPRAIRIE. 


163 


rn.  The 
>ontf40; 
lave  been 

rs,  12  per 
;s  of  real 
brent  de- 
; ;  the  in- 
jnd  there 
llage.  In 
scription 
e  on  the 
and  only 
3  a  house 
nast  rais- 
rk  of  dis- 
d  usually 

e  healthy 
nd  thick 

lucation, 
ondition 

itholics  ; 
pon  the 
Romish 

opped  at 
in  some 


omestic 
\g  the 
,  but  di- 


ontreal 


derived  its  name,  and  which  rises  immediately  be- 
hind  It,  may  be  discovered  at  a  orcat  distance  ;  and 
the  house  of  INlr.  M'Tavish  maybe  perceived,  like 
a  white  spot,  a  little  distance  up  its  side. 

Some  time  before  reaching  tiie  river,  you  pass 
an  extensive  common,  lying  on  the  south  side  of 
the  road,  and  then  enter  the  town  of 

Laprairie.  This  is  a  large  town,  from  which 
the  steamboats  cross  several  times  a  day,  to  Mon- 
treal, t)  miles.  The  place  is  built  after  the  Cana- 
dian fashion  ;  and  very  few  of  tlie  inhabitants  speak 
English.  The  streets  are  narrow,  the  houses  low, 
and  nothing  is  to  be  seen  worthy  of  particular  no- 
tice, excepting  a  nunnery  and  the  church.  The 
nuns  possess  a  large  tract  of  land,  nearly  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  high 
wall  ;  and  they  devote  their  time  to  the  care  of  the 
sick,  and  the  education  of  girls. 

Montreal  is  distinguished  at  the  distance  of  9 
miles,  by  its  thick  mass  of  buildings,  roofed  with 
sheets  of  tin,  and  overtopped  by  church  spires, 
shining  with  the  same  n»clal.  Behind  it  rises  a 
fine  mountain,  spotted  with  orchards  ;  on  the  right, 
down  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  the  fortified  island  of 
St.  Helen  ;  and  on  tlie  left,  that  of  the  Nuns,  and 
several  smaller  ones  at  a  distance,  through  which 
are  seen  the  sheets  of  while  foam  caused  by  the 
rapids.  The  shores  are  low  and  perfectly  llat  in 
every  direction  ;  which,  with  the  wide  expanse  of 
water,  gives  an  aspect  of  tiresome  monotony  and 
extension  to  the  scene.  Uniformity  will  be  found 
characteristic  of  almost  the  whole  vo)  age  to  Que- 
bec. 

The   current   of  the  river  is    extremely  rapid, 


■J  .ill  ■ 


III 


if 


,.-'  'i.. 


^^t^ 


i  i 

■^  Is 


it-^-^9 


164 


MONTR!  A L. 


particularly  near  tlioso  parts  uhoro  the  anrfaco  is 
broken  by  rocks  ;  but  the  stcuinboats  are  able  to 
effect  t!»e  passage  with  facility  and  in  safety.  It  is 
impossible  for  any  boat  to  go  thron^^h  tbe  current 
without  beinp;  borne  rapidly  down  in  some  places  ; 
and  there  is  ii  part  of  the  river  near  tbe  ndddle, 
where  the  water  is  clear,  and  tbe  rod  s  are  easily 
seen  on  the  bottom,  as  tbe  boats  ^lide  on  above 
them.  In  returning,  tbe  boats  sometimes  pass  be- 
tween two  rocks,  near  tbe  rapids,  that  on  tbe  east 
being  under  water.  Here  tbe  river  is  much  agi- 
tated, and  sometimes  throws  the  water  on  deck 
without  any  danger. 

A  large  tinned  roof  in  the  city,  on  tbe  left,  with 
a  small  steeple,  belongs  to  tbe  convent  of  Gray 
Nuns  ;  further  back  is  the  UecolU  t,  church  ;  then 
the  French  Parish  church,  near  which  is  seen  the 
Great  Cathedral.  The  Knglish  Kpiscopal  church 
has  a  tall  pyramidal  spire  ;  and  that  which  rises 
farther  to  the  right,  and  near  the  shore,  is  the 
church  of  Bon-secours.  From  some  places  may 
be  seen  the  top  of  Nelson's  monument,  with  seve- 
ral other  remarkable  objects,  particularly  the  bar- 
racks, on  the  right,  behind  the  remnant  of  the  old 
city  wall. 

MONTREAL. 

Inns,  Masonic  Hall,  at  the  north  end  of  the 
city,  with  a  piazza  over  the  bank  :  Goodenough's, 
St.  Panl's-street ;  Mansion  house,  do.  &c.  These 
are  all  large  houses,  and  porters  will  be  found  on 
the  shore  belonging  to  eacli,  who  will  convey  the 
luggage,  and  show  the  way. 

The  landing  place  is  unpleasant,  and  the  stran- 
ger may  be  struck  with  the  narrowness  of  the 


i 


11  r  face  18 
ii  able  ti» 
y.  It  is 
J  current 
•  places  ; 

irc  easily 
ou  above 
i  pass  bc- 
i  ilic  cast 
inch  agi- 
on    deck 

left,  with 
i  of  (jray 
rch  ;  then 
3  seen  the 
al  church 
hich  rises 
e,  is   the 
aces  may 
vith  seve- 
ihe  bar- 
f  the  old 


Ind  of  the 

[enough's, 

.     These 

found  on 

>nvey  the 

the  slran- 
Is  of  the 


) 


MONTREAL. 


165 


streets,  tlic  lownrss  nnd  heavy  aspect  of  the  houses, 
whicli  nrc  of  stone  or  |)la.st('rc(l  to  r('s('rMl)h*  it. 
Montreal  contains  many  line  bnildin^H  and  other 
oI»jects  worthy  of  nolirc,  to^clher  wiih  a  vicinity 
which  in  the  warm  seayon  ol  lUv.  year  is  truly  de- 
lij;htful. 

Those  who  remain  hut  a  sh(>rt  tinu;  in  this  city, 
may  easily  [)ay  a  hasty  visit  U)  the  principal  objects 
of  curiosity  ;  and  are  recomnuMidcd  to  take  a  walk 
throiigh  the  two  |)rincipal  str(;els,  and  to  notice  the 
following  buildings  and  places. 

At  the  north  erul  of  Ht.  PauTs-street  are  the  T5ar- 
racUs.  Above  thes(!  are  the  Hospital  and  Public 
Baths.  Just  above  the  Masonic  Hall  is  the  French 
church  of  IJun-secours,  which  hke  the  other  Ca- 
nadian religious  buildings  nc^nerally.  is  foruKul 
much  on  the  plan  of  those  in  T'lance.  This  is  near 
the  northern  limit  of  Montreal,  beyond  which  be- 
gins the  Quebec  suburb. 

Masonic  Hall ^  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  street. 

Theatre^  adjoining  the  Masonic  Htdi. 

Market  Placc^  anl  NclsorCs  Mminmcvt.  Then 
follows  a  double  row  of  shops.  On  the  east  side 
are  several,  which  show  articles  of  Indian  manu- 
facture for  sale.  These,  however,  had  better  be 
bought  at  the  nunneries,  if  it  is  intended  to  visit 
them. 

The  Black  Nuns^  Garden^  Convent,  and  Chapel, 
are  on  the  west  side  of  the  stret  t.  The  wall  is 
very  high.  The  porter  at  the  gate  will  give  ad- 
mission and  directions,  but  in  French.  Visit(  rs  are 
expected  to  purchase  a  few  articles  of  nuns'  or  In- 
dian manufacture.  It  is  most  agreeable  to  go  in 
parties. 

14 


,    ;>  _        '(J 


1 

i 

■  I  i 

rn 


*    (I 


i 


166 


MONTREAL. 


'if 


The  New  Cathedral  and  Old  Parish  Church  are 
close  by  ;  a  shorl  street  leads  to  them,  west. 

The  New  Cathedral  is  probably  the  largest 
church  in  North  America,  except  Mexico.  It  is 
partly  copied  from  some  of  the  European  models 
of  the  13th,  14th,  and  I5th  centuries.  It  is  of  the 
plainest  style  that  can  bear  the  name  of  Gothic; 
any  exuberance  of  ornament  being  inconsistent 
with  a  clin  ate  so  severe  as  that  of  Canada. 

It  is  255  feet  long  from  west  to  east,  and  134 
feet  wide.  It  was  designed  to  have  six  quadran- 
gular towers,  each  200  feet  high  :  3  on  each  flank, 
and  two  at  each  end.  Tlie  curtain,  or  space  be- 
tween the  front  towers  is  73  feet  by  119,  and  has 
parapets.  There  are  5  public  entrances  and  3 
private  to  the  first  floor,  and  4  to  the  galleries. 
The  building  can  contain  10,000  persons,  which 
number  may  assemble  and  disperse  in  a  few  min- 
utes. The  eastern  window  over  the  high  altar  is 
32  by  64  feet,  and  is  divided  by  shafts  and  mullions 
for  stained  glass.  The  groins  of  the  ceiling  are 
painted  in  fresco.  The  ceiling  is  SO  feet  high, 
groined  and  partly  supported  by  a  double  range  of 
grouped  columns,  intersected  by  rails.  The  cir- 
cuit of  the  edifice  is  1125  feet. 

There  are  to  be  7  altars.  The  floor  rises  grad- 
ually Irom  the  entrance  to  the  high  altar.  The  house 
is  to  be  warmed  bv  heated  air  from  stoves  under 
the  floor.  The  exterior  is  faced  with  hewn  stone, 
from  the  mountain.  A  promenade  75  feet  by  25, 
elevated  more  than  100  feet  between  the  towers 
will  command  a  noble  view. 

Goodenough's  Hotel  is  on  the  west  side,  in  a  court 
yard. — Further  on,  a  street  on  the  opposite  side 
brings  you  in  sight  of  the 


I 


urch  are 
;st. 

!  largest 
).  It  is 
I  models 
is  of  the 
Gothic ; 
onsistent 
la. 

and   134 
quadran- 
ach  flank, 
pace    be- 
,  and  has 
3S   and   3 
galleries, 
ns,  which 
few  min- 
h  altar  is 

mullions 
Eiling  are 
eet  high, 
e  range  of 

The  cir- 


in  a  court 
osite  side 


1 


MONTREAL. 


167 


Gray  Nuns^  Convent,  a  large  stone  building, 
partly  new,  about  410  feet  in  length. 

Mansion  House  Hotel,  St,  Paul's  street,  below  an 
open  square. 

[The  Canal  to  Lacliine  begins  on  the  river  shore, 
nearly  against  here. J 

The  Seminary  (La  Seminaire  de  St.  Sulpice,)  is 
an  antique  building,  and  contains  a  Catholic  libra- 
ry of  about  6000  volumes  ;  but  access  to  it  is  not 
very  easily  obtained.  The  Priests  are  the  Seig- 
neurs of  the  whole  island  of  Montreal. 

The  College  is  a  large  building  of  stone,  three 
stories  high,  erected  in  1 8 1 9  out  of  the  funds  of  the 
"Seininarv."  It  has  a  front  of  about  1 50  feet,  with 
wings  projecting  in  front  and  rear,  which  make  the 
whole  length  about  220  feet.  In  order  to  guard 
against  fire,  there  is  scarcely  any  wood  used  in  the 
construction  ;  and  large  iron  doors  are  hung  in  the 
passages  in  such  a  manner  that,  by  shutting  them, 
the  whole  building  may  be  divided  into  three  parts, 
each  fire-proof. 

It  contains  about  300  students,  who  arc  divided 
into  8  classes,  to  each  of  which  is  devoted  a  year, 
witti  the  exception  of  the  two  last,  which  occupy 
but  6  months  apiece  ;  so  that  the  whole  course  of 
instruction  is  finished  in  7  years.  Many  of  the 
pupils,  however,  leave  the  institution  before  com- 
pleting the  course. 

The  Chapel  is  in  the  south  wing  ;  and  the  rest 
of  the  building  is  divided  into  recitation  rooms, 
and  bed  rooms,  the  former  of  which  are  hung  v  th 
maps  and  religious  pictures,  and  the  latter  suppli- 
ed with  crosses  and  fonts.  Every  thing  is  \GTy 
plain  in  the  furniture.     The  price  of  instruction  is 


(  l'  i 


''m. 


I 


168 


Montreal. 


I 


about  eighty  dollars  per  year,  and  sorrie  oi  the 
pupils  have  alh)vvances  made  then  ;  particidarly 
those  designed  for  the  Church,  who  assist  in  in- 
struction by  day,  and  study  by  nioht.  There  is  a 
preparatory  School  connected  with  the  College. 
One  of  the  instructers  always  oversees  the  boys  in 
their  recreations. 

Returning  to  the  square,  and  entering  another 
principal  street  running  parallel  to  St.  Paul's,  you 
pass  numerous  resj)eclable  and  some  elegant  dwell- 
ings, leaving  the  Parish  Church  and  the  new  Ca- 
thedral on  the  east. 

The  Wesleyan  ChapeL  The  American  Congre- 
gational, and  the  English  Episcopal  Churches  are 
passed  on  this  side  of  the  town. 

The  Court  House  is  large,  but  old ;  and  in  the 
rear  of  it  is 

The  Parade,  a  handsome  piocc  of  ground,  with 
a  walk,  where  the  troops  are  drilled  every  morn- 
ing, generally  at  ten  o'clock. 

The  Society  of  Natural  History  have  an  interest- 
ing collection  of  animals,  minerals,  plants,  &c. 
principally  collected  in  the  provinces. 

A  House  of  Industry  has  been  established. 

The  British  and  Canadian  School  Society  estab- 
lished Schools  on  the  British  system  in  Montreal, 
in  Sept.  1822.  It  is  supported  by  voluntary  sub' 
scriptions. 

There  is  a  Lancasterian  School  of  several  hun- 
dred scholars,  and  an  Episcopal  School  on  Bell's 
eystem. 

The  Priests  in  Canada  have  begun  to  educate  in 
self-defence.  The  schools  provided  for  by  gOv 
vernment,  are  restricted  to  masters  of  the  English 


r 


MONTREAL. 


169 


01  the 
ciilarly 
t  in  in- 
ere  is  a 
college, 
boys  irt 

another 
il's,  you 
»t  dwell- 
new  Ca- 

Congre* 
ches  are 

id  in  the 

nd,  with 
y  morn- 

interest- 
its,   &c. 

led. 

ty  estab- 
ontreal, 
ry  sub- 

Iral  hun- 
►n  Bell's 

lucate  in 

by  go^ 

lEnglish 


.) 


Church  ;  and  a  considerable  number  of  school- 
houses  have  been  erected,  but  ahiiust  confined  to 
the  townships. 

In  1829,  there  were,  in  jlontrcal,  Quebec,  and 
Three  Rivers,  3  schools  of  royal  institution,  2  col- 
leges, 6  convents,  11  gratuitous  scliuuls,  (contain- 
ing 1214  pupils,)  and  50  other  scbools. 

In  tlie  country,  there  were  70  schools  of  royal 
institution,  4  colleges,  and  14  nussion  schools. 

Island  of  St.  Helen,  or  Grant's  Island,  is 
a  military  position  and  depot.  It  is  principally 
covered  with  trees  ;  but  has  a  beautiful  garden  be- 
hind the  quarters  of  the  officers  ;  and  a  fine  road 
winding  round  from  the  landing  place,  on  the  south 
end,  (where  are  some  remains  of  old  works,  and  a 
new  battery,)  to  a  rocky  eminence  over  the  arsenal, 
which  is  opposite  the  northern  quarter  of  the  town. 
This  rock  is  about  1 1  feet  higher  than  the  most 
elevated  parts  of  the  city  ;  and  the  view  from  it 
is  handsome,  with  a  wild  ravine  just  below. 

The  arsenal  and  storehouses  form  three  build- 
ings, with  a  narrow  yard  between  them,  about  125 
feet  in  length.  The  batteries  range  on  the  river 
and  town,  and  are  furnished  with  neat  barracks,  a 
magazine,  Alc. 

The  Mountain  of  Montreal,  offers  an  exten- 
sive and  delightful  view,  and  should  by  no  means 
be  forgotten  by  those  who  have  an  opportunity  to 
undertake  the  excursion.  It  is  better  calculated  to 
afford  an  idea  of  the  country,  as  well  as  to  delight 
the  eye,  than  any  other  excursion  which  can  be 
made.  Yet  it  is  recommended, if  the  traveller  stays 
long  enough,  to  take  a  ride  or  two  in  different  di- 
rections, after  having  visited   this  favorite   spot. 

14* 


V 


i^T^r! 


Y 


t 

SI, 


^  1 


170 


ROVTE    IN  CANADA. 


h 


^i 


Capt.  Partrulire  states  its  elevation  at676  feet  abovd 
tide  water. 

?'herc  are  three  ways  of  reaching  tlie  summit 
of  the  mountain  :  07i  foot,  by  an  intricate  route 
from  the  southern  part  of  the  city  ;  on  horseback, 
or  in  a  carriage^  to  the  ridge  ;  or  round  the  north 
end  to  the  rear.  There  is  also  a  footpath  up  the 
north  end.  A  private  road  turns  ofTfrom  the  south- 
ern road  on  the  ridge,  passing  through  a  gate* 
Heretofore  the  only  good  point  of  view  has  been 
from  a  rock  above  M'Tavi^h's  house,  whence  a 
very  steep  path  bads  directly  down.  The  country 
spread  out  to  view  on  arriving  at  this  commanding 
height,  is  a  plain  of  such  vast  extent  as  to  appear 
in  many  directions  quite  boundless.  In  fact,  it 
stretches  much  farther  than  would  be  imagined  ; 
for  all  the  way  to  Quebec  the  river's  banks  present 
the  same  appearance. 

The  spectator  faces  the  east.  The  side  of  the 
mountain,  ahnost  precipitous,  is  thickly  covered 
with  trees,  wliich  soon  give  place  below  to  a  smooth 
descent,  chiefly  devoted  to  pasturage,  on  the  ele- 
vation of  which  stands  M'Tavish's  house.  A  beau- 
tiful display  of  cultivated  fields  succeeds  on  the 
level,  divided  by  high  palings,  and  scattered  with  a 
few  houses.  Below  a  moderate  descent,  which  ap- 
pears like  an  old  bank  of  the  rivor,  gardens  and 
dwellings  begin  to  increase  :  and  behind  a  sue* 
ceeding  one,  of  a  similar  description,  are  suburbs. 

EasU  on  the  horizon,  is  Boucherville  Mountain; 
and  over  it  Beloeil  Mountain.  The  plain  country 
between  the  Sorel  and  St.  Lawrence  is  divided  into 
innumerable  fields,  with  scattering  houses.  In  the 
same  direction  is   seen   St.  Helen's,   or  Grant's 


i 


i 


EXCURSION    TO    LACHINE. 


171 


tabovd 

summit 
to  route 
rschack, 
\e  north 
I  up  the 
e  south- 

a  gate* 
las  been 
hence  a 

country 
mantling 
)  appear 
1  fact,  it 
nagined  ; 
3  present 

[le  of  the 
covered 
smooth 
the  eie- 
A  beau- 
on  the 
d  with  a 

vhich  ap- 
ens  and 
d  a  sue* 
suburbs, 
lountain; 
country 
ided  into 
.  In  the 
•  Grant's 


Island  ;  and  in  a  direction  with  the  south  end  of 
it,  the  steeple  of  Bon-sccour  church.  North  of 
this  arc  the  Quebec  suburbs,  bcsrinninff  near  the 
barracks;  the  Waterworks,  and  Baths.  Nearer, 
are  s.en  St.  Louis  and  8t.  Lawrence  suburbs. 

S.  S.  East,  on  the  opposite  shore,  La  Prairie  ; 
and  nearly  over  it,  the  site  of  St.  John's,  which  is 
not  distinguishable.  In  a  range  with  them,  is  Nuns' 
Island,  and  Nuns'  Farm,  the  latter  on  this  shore. 
The  river  is  3^  miles  wide.  The  suburbs  on  the 
south  side  of  the  city,  are  St.  Antoine,  llicolet,  St. 
Anne's,  and  St,  Joseph's.     Distant  Mountains. 

North.  Bout  de  I'lsle,  the  extremity  of  Mon- 
treal Island,  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  and  the  village 
of  Boucherville  ;  opposite  which  is  Longueil,  and 
further  do  wn,Varennes,  with  a  tuo-steepled  church. 

iV.  East^  the  view  is  boundless,  with  a  succes- 
sion of  cultivated  fields,  which  in  the  distance  be- 
come quite  undistinguishable 

Road  round  the  Mountain, — The  road  near  the 
north  end  of  the  mountain  is  ornamented  with  ma- 
ny beautiful  seats,  and  there  are  also  some  exten- 
sive manufactories.  Behind  it  is  a  fine  extent  of 
cultivated  ground. 

Excursion  to  Lachine,  9  miles  or  3  leagues. 
The  river  road  is  pleasantest  ;  giving  a  view  of 
the  Rapids,  Nuns'  and  Heron  Islands,  the  Indian 
village  of  Caughnawaga  opposite,  and  crossing  the 
Lachine  Canal,  At  Lachine  is  a  small  house  kept 
by  an  American.  Crystals  of  axenite  (carb.  lime) 
were  found  in  excavating  the  canal.  The  pebbles 
along  the  shore  are  the  fragments  of  granite,  while 
the  black,  or  deep  purple  rocks  which  form  the 
channel  are  limestone,  lying  in  strata  nearly  hori- 
zontal. 


n 


al 


I  "  I; 


^  ! 


m 


I  <  1 


;t 


1  •  1 


ftt 


W 


Vf 


172 


ROUTE    IN    CANADA. 


fl 


The  soutliern  road  to  the  Mountain,  which  cross- 
es it  lit  the  less  elevated  purt  of  the  ridge,  near  the 
middle,  leads  through  8t.  Joseph's  suburbs,  and 
afterward  passes  a  number  of  line  country  seats. 
The  most  remarkable  are  those  of  Mr.  M'Gillivray, 
and  the  late  Mr.  (ircgory,  members  of  the  old 
North-West  Company,  '  .h  has  lately  been  con- 
verted into  the  IJudson^s  Bay  Company.  It  en- 
grossed the  Indian  trade  for  a  vast  distance  up  the 
lakes,  and  enriched  many  individuals,  whose  resi- 
dences add  materially  to  the  appearance  of  the  city 
and  its  environs. 

The  Priests^  Farm  is  passed  on  the  left,  near 
the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  is  a  large  tract  of 
land,  with  an  old  building  in  the  ancient  European 
style,  preserving  many  of  the  features  of  feudal 
days,  with  its  projecting  square  towers,  small  win- 
dows, pointed  roofs,  and  weather-beaten  walls. 
The  barns  connected  with  it  are  very  spacious. 

The  whole  island  of  Montreal  is  a  Seigneurie,  in 
which  the  monks  of  Ricolet,  as  Seigneurs,  have 
the  right  of  a  tax  on  every  farm,  on  every  purchase 
and  sale  of  real  estate,  and  many  other  privileges, 
vested  in  them  by  the  king  of  France  on  the  first 
settlement  of  the  place.  Circumstances  have  con- 
spired to  reduce  and  destroy  many  of  these  privi- 
leges, so  that  the  annual  income  of  the  priests  from 
this  rich  and  valuable  Seigneurie,  though  large,  is 
very  trivial,  in  comparison  with  its  extent  and  fer- 
tility. 

Col.  Allen,  with  his  detachment  for  the  surprise 
of  Montreal,  in  1776,  crossed  the  river  from  Lon- 
gueil ;  but  Major  Brown,  not  being  able  to  land 
above  the  city  as  was  intended,  the  former  was  ta- 


THE    OREAT    OTTAWA    BRIDGE. 


173 


cross- 
car  the 
s,    and 
'  seats, 
ilivray, 
he   old 
en  con- 
It  en- 
)  up  the 
ise  resi- 
the  city 

ft,  near 
tract  of 
uropean 
f  feudal 
lall  wia- 
1    walls, 
pious, 
eurie,  in 
s,   have 
urchase 
livileges, 
the  first 
lave  con- 
e  privi- 
sts  from 
[large,  is 
and  fer- 

|surprise 
>m  Len- 
to land 
was  ta- 


ken prisoner  by  Gov.  Carlcton,  after  a  sharp  en- 
gagement, loaded  with  irons,  and  sent  to  Cngland. 
Col.  Warner  afterward  erected  batteries  on  the 
shore  at  Longueil,  by  which  he  drove  back  the  go- 
vernor when  he  attempted  to  land  on  his  way  to 
relieve  St.  John's. 

The  population  of  Montreal,  by  a  census  taken 
in  1825,  was  nearly  24,000  ;  and  4  or  500  greater 
than  that  of  Quebec. 

[THE  RIDEAU  CANAL  is  to  effect  a  naviga- 
ble communication  between  Lake  Ontario  and  the 
Ottawa  river.] 

Boats  go  from  Montreal  up  the  Grand  River  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Rideau,  and  the  commencement 
of  the  canal,  by  the  La  Chine  and  Greenville  cauah. 

Bytown  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  theRideau 
and  Ottawa  ;  120  miles  from  Montreal,  and  150 
from  Kingston.  The  Rideau  received  its  French 
name  from  the  beautiful  cascade,  like  a  white  cur- 
tain, with  which  it  descends  27  feet,  into  the  Ot- 
tawa. North  of  the  town  the  Otta  a  is  about  a 
mile  in  breadth.  It  has  a  fall  of  32  eet,  and  is  di- 
versified with  numerous  islands.  Below  the  fall 
the  water  is  very  deep  ;  and  the  Rideau  Canal  hero 
descends  to  it  down  a  narrow  cleft  in  a  precipitous 
bank  by  eight  locks  of  fine  stone  work,  ten  feet 
lift.  The  canal,  on  gaining  the  eminence,  passes 
through  the  village,  and  opens  upon  a  large  beaver 
meadow  of  250  acres,  vi'hich  receives  a  branch  ca-» 
nal  from  Lake  Chaudie' e  on  the  Ottawa.  A  little 
south  of  the  town  is  a  mountainous  ridge,  through 
which  the  canal  passes  by  a  natural  notch. 

The  Great  Ottawa  Bridge  is  an  i.iimense  struc- 
ture, of  bold  design  and  admirable  workmanship. 


;  'i 


1 1 


';  i 


<  ■     ''V 


W 


7T 


174 


ROUTE    IN    CANADA. 


The  first  two  arches  on  the  Lower  Canada  side, 
arc  each  sixty  lent  span,  and  of  stone,  exicnding 
over  the  two  channels  on  that  side  of  the  Kettle. 
Then  follows  a  piece  of  wooden  hridgc,  rising  on 
trestles,  which  brings  the  traveller  to  an  island, 
beyond  which  is  a  rapid  and  tumultuous  current^ 
called  the  Chaudiere  (ireat  Kettle.  Over  this  an 
attempt  was  made,  which  was  repeated  in  1828 
with  success,  to  throw  a  magnificent  arch,  of  220 
feet  span.  Two  arches  cross  the  smaller  chan- 
nels on  the  other  side. 

From  the  bridge  a  fine  road  had  been  opened 
in  the  upper  province  to  the  village.  A  wooden 
bridge  on  this  road,  114  feet  span,  crosses  a  gul- 
ley. 

Hull  is  opposite  Bytown,  connected  with  it  by 
the  great  Ottawa  Bridge.  This  township  belongs 
to  Philemon  Wright,  Esq.  an  American  farmer  of 
great  affluence  and  experience.  His  settlement, 
called  Wrightstown,  is  seen  from  Bytown,  being 
situated  at  the  Falls. 
ROUTE  FROM  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 

Road  to  Quebec  — It  is  recommended  to  those 
who  may  find  it  convenient,  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  performing  a  part  of  the  journey  in  this 
manner,  either  going  or  returning. 

The  country  is  indeed  a  dead  level,  but  it  is  en- 
tirely reduced  to  cultivation,  thickly  populated, 
and  furnished  with  good  roads.  The  way  lies 
along  the  very  margin  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  pass- 
ing an  almost  uninterrupted  succession  of  dwejl-s 
ings,  and  supplied  with  many  comfortable  and 
some  good  inns. 

Steamboat   to   Quebec. — Leaving  Montreal 


Ja  sitlcf 
lending 

KctlltJ. 
tsing  on 

islund, 
current, 

this  an 
in  1828 
,  of  220 
er  chan- 

opencd 

wooden 

cs  a  gul- 

th   it  by- 
belongs 
armer  of 
tlement, 
1,   being 

EBEC. 

to  those 
arrange- 
y  in  this 

it  is  en- 
pulated, 
way  lies 
ce,  pass- 
f  dwelU 
ble   and 


I 


r 


THE    ST.    LAWRENCE. 


175 


I 


I 


i 


Lon 


treal 


in  tlic  steamboat,  you  pass  under  the  Fort  on  St. 
Helen's  Island,  the  steciples  and  cupolas  of  the 
city  being  seen  nearly  in  the  following  order  be- 
ginning at  the  south  end  ;  (jray  Nuns',  Ricolet 
Church,  Black  Nuns',  New  and  Old  Cathedrals, 
Episcopal  (yhurch.  Nelson's  Monument,  Bon-se- 
cour  Church.  Near  the  last,  on  the  shore,  is  the 
Masonic  Hotel,  then  the  Barracks,  Waterworks, 
and  Baths,  the  beginning  of  the  Quebec  suburbs, 
the  residences  of  Judge  Reed  and  Mr.  Malson, 
with  terraced  gardens  towards  the  river,  &c.  A 
little  below  is  Malson's  Brewery,  and  the  late  Sir 
John  Johnson's  residence. 

The  following  are  the  villages  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  way  from  Mon- 
treal to  Quebec,  ^i'he  principal  ones  are  descri-* 
bed  below,  and  the  churclies  of  most  of  them  are 
visible  from  the  steamhoat :  Laprairie,  (200 hou- 
ses,) Longueil,  Boucherville,  (a  cliurch  and  100 
houses,)  Varennes,  (a  church  with  three  spires,  15 
miles  from  Montreal,)  Ycrcheres,  Contrecoeur, 
Sorel  or  William  Henry,  Yamaska,  (with  a  pro- 
testant  church,)  St.  Francis,  Bale  St.  Antoine,  or 
Lefebvre,  (tlie  three  last  Seignories,  on  the  shore 
of  Lake  St.  Peter,  invisible  from  the  water)  Nico- 
let,  Gregoire,  Becancour,  (opposite  Three  Rivers,) 
Gentilly,  Pierre  les  Becquets,  Deschaillons,  Lot- 
biniore,  St.  Croix,  Antoine,  Nicholas. 

The  following  villages  are  on  the  north  bank: 
Long  Point,  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  Repentigny, 
Sulpice,  (with  many  stores  for  produce,  24  miles 
from  Montreal,)  Lavaltrie,  Lanoraye,  Isle  du  Pas, 
(the  church  on  an  island,  between  Berthier  and 
Sorel,)  Berthier,  Maskinonge,   Riviere  du  Loup, 


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tie 


ROUTE    IN    CANADA. 


li  U  !  I 


!«!' 


(wjth  a  large  church  with  three  steeples,)  Ma- 
chiclie,  Pointe  du  Lac,  (the  end  of  Lake  8t.  Pe- 
ter,) Ttiree  Rivers,  Cap  de  la  Madeleine,  Cham- 
plain,  Baliscan,  St.  Anne,  Grondines,  Descham- 
bault,  Cap  Sante,  Belair  or  Les  Ecureuils,  Pointe 
aux  Trembles,  Augustin. 

Almost  every  view  that  can  be  taken  from  the 
city  of  Quebec,  and  around  it,  is  fine  :  but  it  makes 
the  best  appearance  from  Point  Levi,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  Rapids  of  St,  Mary  are  between  the  island 
and  these  last-mentioned  objects,  and  run  with 
such  rapidity  that  steamboats  are  sometimes 
obliged  to  be  drawn  up  by  cattle  a  little  distance. 

Pointe  aux  Trembles,  9  miles,  (3  leagues.)  Here 
is  a  nunnery,  in  which  is  a  pretty  large  school  for 
girls.     There  are  two  g     J  inns  in  the  place. 

At  this  place  it  is  recommended  to  the  traveller 
by  land,  to  make  a  deviation  from  the  direct  road 
along  the  river,  if  he  finds  it  convenient,  to  seethe 
delightful  country  between  it  and  the  town  of  As- 
somption.  There  is  a  beautiful  road  on  each 
bank,  varied  with  houses  and  trees.  Return  so 
as  to  strike  the  road  near 

Machiche  is  a  pretly  tow^n,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Riviere  du  Loup,  and  has  a  very  neat  and  com- 
fortable inn,  of  the  best  Canadian  stamp.  Many 
French  customs  are  still  preserved  by  the  unmixed 
iiilttibitants  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  some  of  which 
are  a2:reeable  and  interesting.  At  many  of  the 
inns,  the  traveller  will  receive  the  most  kind  and 
hospitable  attentions,  and  will  find  great  gratifica- 
tion in  observing  the  handsome  flower-gardens,  as 
well  as  the  neat  arrangement  of  the  furniture. 


es,)  Ma- 
;  »t.  Pe- 
;,  Cham- 
Descham- 
Is,  Pointe 

from  the 
It  it  makes 
n  the  op- 

the  island 
run  with 

sometimes 

distance. 

les.)  Here 

school  for 

place. 

|e  traveller 
ect  road 
to  seethe 
wn  of  As- 
on  each 
leturn  so 

mth  of  the 

and  com- 

p.     Many 

e  unmixed 

of  which 

ny  of  the 

kind  and 

t  gratifica- 

ardens,  as 

liture. 


(I 


THE    8T.    LAWRENCB. 


nr 


There  is  very  little  variety  to  be  discovered  in 
the  natural  surface  of  the  ground,  but  the  journey 
through  this  region  presents  almost  an  unvarying 
scene  of  cultivation  and  fertility.  For  a  great 
part  of  the  distance,  there  is  a  narrow  strip  of 
corn  or  potatoes  between  the  road  and  the  river's 
bank,  to  correspond  with  the  fields  which  stretch 
off  to  such  a  distance  on  the  other  hand  ;  and  the 
variety  of  crops,  and  the  occasional  rows  and 
clumps  of  trees,  remove,  in  a  good  degree,  the 
natural  sameness  of  the  landscape. 

Navigation  and  Trade  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, &.C. — Steamboats  are  of  the  utmost  im- 
portance on  this  great  river,  for  they  contribute 
extremely  to  the  convenience  and  expedition  of 
travelling,  and  render  most  valuable  assistance  to 
commerce.  Thsre  are  many  steamboats  constant- 
ly employed  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  most 
of  them  fitted  to  accommodate  passengers,  as  well 
as  to  carry  freight,  and  all  provided  with  power- 
ful engines.  The  principal  article  of  export  from 
Canada  is  lumber,  a  great  deal  of  which  is  carried 
to  Quebec  in  immense  rafts,  and  then  shipped  for 
England.  These  rafts  have  usually  a  great  num- 
ber of  sails  to  hoist  in  a  fair  wind,  with  huts  to 
shelter  the  men  from  the  weather,  so  that  they 
have  a  very  singular  appearance,  and  at  a  little 
distance  look  like  a  fleet  of  sail  boats. 

The  French  Canadians  appear,  on  acquaintance, 
to  be  an  intelligent  people.  They  certainly  are 
amiable,  cheerful,  and  gay,  and  their  backward- 
ness in  improvements  is  attributable  to  the  system 
under  which  they  live.  They  are  generally 
brought  up  in  great  ignorance,  and  they  are  taught 

15 


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it 


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178 


ROUTE    IN    CANADA. 


to  dislike  and  avoid  not  only  tlic  Protestant  prin- 
ciples, but  proteslants  then. selves.  The  author 
has  the  word  of  one  of  their  priests  foi  stating, 
that  not  more  than  one  sixth  of  the  population  are 
ever  taught  to  read  or  write.  In  New-England,  as 
is  well  known,  the  law  provides  for  the  instruction 
of  every  child,  without  exception  :  and  every  child 
is  actually  instructed.  Books  and  newspapers, 
therefore,  lose  their  ell'ect  as  well  as  their  value 
among  these  people. 

The  "  Procedure'^  of  Canada  is  founded  on  the 
edict  of  Louis  14th,  of  1667,  and  is  the  basis  of 
the  Civil  Code.  There  were  no  lawyers  before 
the  conquest  in  17o9,  when  they  were  created; 
and  martial  law  prevailed  from  that  time  till  1774. 
The  trial  by  jury  was  introduced  in  1785;  and  the 
constitutional  charter  in  1791. 

There  are  many  signs  of  prosperity  exhibited 
by  the  farii^ers  between  Montreal  and  Three  Riv- 
ers, in  the  extension  or  erection  of  buildings.  On 
each  farm  is  usually  to  be  seen  about  half  an  acre 
of  Indian  corn,  which  will  furnish  18  or  20  bush- 
els; and  it  is  the  custom  not  to  build  fences,  the 
cattle  being  kept  from  the  land,  and  fed  on  weeds 
until  the  crops  are  off. 

The  houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  and  are 
built  of  wood  or  stone,  according  to  the  natuie  of 
the  country.  Some  of  them  are  formed  of  squared 
timbers,  and  even  of  round  logs  ;  but  the  latter  are 
usually  employed  for  the  construction  of  barns 
only,  which  are  often  covered  with  thatch.  The 
houses  and  barns  are  frequently  composed  of  sev- 
eral small  buildings,  erected  at  difi'erent  periods, 
according  to  the  capacity  or  necessities  of  the 
proprietors. 


int  prin- 
e  author 
stating, 
ation  are 
glanil,  as 
struction 
ery  child 
vspapers, 
leir  value 

ed  on  the 
e  basis  of 
rs  before 
created ; 
J  till  1774. 
) ;  and  the 

exhibited 

hree  Riv- 

ings.    On 

If  an  acre 

20  bush- 
Mices,   the 

on  weeds 

,  and  are 

natuie  of 

if  squared 

latter  are 

II  of  barns 

tch.     The 

5ed  of  sey- 

It  periods, 

les   of  the 


T?IE    ST.    LAWRENCE. 


179 


William  Henry,  or  Sorel,  45  miles,  or  15 
leagues,  from,  Movtrcal.  'JMiis  town,  containing 
about  2000  inhobitants,  is  one  of  the  principal 
places  between  tiic  two  ca[)ilals.  It  is  on  the 
south  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  mouth  of 
tlie  Sorel,  or  Richelieu,  in  a  very  sandy  situation; 
and  contains  nothing  worthy  of  notice  except  a 
little  old  church,  a  palisadoed  fort,  and  a  neat  little 
square,  at  the  distance  of  a  short  walk,  surrounded 
with  several  pretty  white  houses,  a  church,  &c.  a 
little  in  the  New-England  style.  The  fences  are 
generally  low,  and  aflbrd  the  sight  of  gardens. 
The  flowers  which  abound  in  the  Canadian  gard- 
ens are  principally  roses,  carnations,  sweet-wil- 
liams, candidus,  monthly  roses  (blossoming  only 
a  part  of  the  year.) 

The  Government  House  stands  about  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  beyond  the  town.  It  is  a  large  red 
building,  with  barracks  near  it.  The  boat  turns 
round  on  leaving  Sorel,  and  returns  to  the  St. 
Lawrence,  the  distant  land  beginning  to  have  some 
elevation. 

On  the  opposite  point,  Gen.  Montgomery  erect- 
ed batteries  on  taking  the  place,  in  1776,  and  pre- 
pared rafts  and  floating  batteries,  which  maintain- 
ed an  engagement  with  the  ships  in  which  Gov. 
Carleton  attempted  to  escape  to  Quebec,  and  drove 
him  back  towards  Montreal.  He  afterward  pass- 
ed them  in  an  open  boat  at  night;  but  his  vessels 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Americans. 

Berthicr  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, b"  3ut  of  sight,  being  behind  several  low 
islands.  Some  of  the  steamboats  stop  there  in- 
stead of  at  Sorel.     There  is  a  ferry  across. 


i 

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lit 


180 


ROUTE    IN    CANADA. 


Lake  St.  Peter.  On  entering  this  large  tract 
of  water,  the  shores  at  the  opposite  end  appear 
like  mere  lines  upon  the  horizon,  thi3  land  being 
still  so  flat  near  the  river  as  to  seem  hardly  suffi- 
cient to  prevent  it  from  overflowing.  A  vessel  at 
the  opposite  end  appears  like  a  mere  speck,  the 
length  of  the  lake  being  20  miles. 

Pointe  du  Lac,  or  Woodlands,  is  seen  on  the 
northern  shore,  when  nearly  across ;  but  it  is  sit- 
uated beyond  the  lake.  A  ridge  of  high  land  con- 
tinues on  the  north,  following  the  course  of  the 
river. 

Opposite  Woodlands  is  Nicolet,  9  miles  from 
Three  Rivers.  The  place  is  large,  and  contains 
an  English  and  a  French  church,  together  with  a 
nunnery,  and  a  college,  founded  by  the  Catholic 
bishop  of  Quebec. 

Three  Rivers,  [Trois  Rivieres.]  This  is  the 
largest  town  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  is 
96  miles  from  the  former,  and  84  from  the  latter. 
The  streets  are  generally  straight,  and  regularly 
built,  though  narrow;  and  the  houses,  although 
neat,  are  only  one  or  two  stories  high,  with  wind- 
ows in  the  roofs,  and  being  principally  plastered, 
have  rather  a  dark  aspect,  like  those  of  Montreal. 
It  contains  shops  of  various  sorts,  and  several 
inns  of  a  decent  appearance.  The  Nunnery  is  in 
the  east  part  of  the  town,  and  has  extensive 
grouiids  connected  with  it.  The  Chapel  of  the 
Convent  has  a  number  of  pictures,  of  which  the 
one  on  the  right  of  the  main  altar  is  the  best: 
Magdalen  weeping.  The  Parish  Church  is  in  the 
south  part  of  the  town-  Two  large  buildings,  for- 
merly the  Court  House  and  Jail,  >vith  the  Niinnci- 
ry^  are  the  principal  objects. 


I 
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RAPIDS    OF    RICHELIEU. 


181 


ge  tract 
appear 
id  being 
ly  suffi- 
vessel  at 
3ck,    the 

n  on  the 
:  it  is  sit- 
land  con- 
36  of  the 

iles  from 

contains 

er  with  a 

;  Catholic 


While  the  American  forces  were  on  the  retreat 
from  Quebec,  in  1775,  Gen*  Sullivan  sent  Gen. 
Thompson  down  from  Sorel  to  attack  this  place. 
He  went  down  the  right  bank  of  Lake  St.  Peter, 
and  landed  9  miles  from  the  town  ;  but  being  dis- 
covered and  misled,  he  found  Gen.  Frazer  drawn 
up  in  order  of  battle,  while  Gen.  Nesbit  was  sent 
to  cut  off  his  retreat;  and  the  battle,  which  imme- 
diately commenced,  was  short  and  disastrous  to 
the  assailants,  who  lost  their  commander,  and 
many  officers  and  soldiers,  as  prisoners,  although 
they  had  few  killed.  After  several  hours  we  ap- 
proach 

Lothiniere,  a  village  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river,  known  by  its  double-spired  church.  It 
stands  on  a  steep  bank,  about  (iO  feet  high,  and 
marks  the  commencement  of  the  Richelieu  rapids. 

The  river  here  winds  between  broken  banks, 
and  the  number  of  cottages  is  so  great  as  to  make 
the  scene  more  animating.  A  few  blue,  brt  not 
lofty,  mountains  are  seen  down  the  river.  The 
land  traveller  sees  the  villages  of  St,  Croix,  Art' 
toine  and  Nicholas. 

Rapids  of  Richelieu.  The  river,  which  is 
about  two  miles  wide,  here  runs  with  great  velo- 
city, particularly  the  first  three  miles;  but  the 
water  is  deep,  and  the  surface  unbroken,  except 
near  the  shores,  which  are  lined  with  innumerable 
loose  round  stones  and  rocks,  extremely  dange- 
rous to  vessels  when  they  get  among  them.  These 
rocks  seem  placed  with  much  regularity,  forming 
two  ranges,  and  making  the  water  appear  as  if  it 
had  a  gradual  swell  from  both  sides  to  the  middle 
of  the  river.     Although  the  navigation  of  this 

15* 


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ill!"'; 


)82 


ROUTE    IN    CANADA. 


part  of  the  St.  Lavvrence  requires  great  skill  and 
caution  in  other  vessels,  steamboats  pass  with  se* 
c'jrity ;  yet,  on  account  of  the  force  of  the  cur- 
vent  at  ebb  tide,  even  they  aie  obliged  to  vary 
their  hours  of  leaving  Quebec,  in  such  a  way  as 
to  have  the  flood  through  the  rapids.  Vessels  are 
often  seen  waiting  at  the  bottom  of  tlie  rapids  for 
a  change  of  tide,  or  for  a  steamboat  to  tow  them 
Up.     The  rapids  extend  about  nine  miles. 

St.  AncJiney  on  the  south  bank,  is  18  miles  (6 
leagues)  from  Quebec.  The  mountain  seen  tow- 
ards the  northeast  is  that  of  Lorette,  and  the  bank 
on  that  side  makes  a  beautiful  slope  to  the  river, 
agreeably  varied  by  cultivated  fields,  interrupted 
by  occasional  patches  of  woodland.  The  south 
shore  continues  high  and  nearly  perpendicular, 
with  innumerable  cottages  peeping  over  the  brow. 

Pointe  aux  Trembles^  a  village  on  the  north 
shore.  The  river  Is  of  about  the  same  breadth 
all  along  here,  viz.  about  two  miles,  although  it 
appears  much  narrower;  the  depth  is  about  five 
fathoms,  and  the  tide  rises  14  or  15  feet.  Not- 
withstanding the  thickness  of  the  population  on 
the  shores,  the  country  is  a  wilderness  only  about 
four  miles  back,  being  comprehended  in  what  is 
called  the  King^s  Hunting  Ground^  which  ex- 
tends from  Three  Rivers,  40  or  50  miles  below 
this  place. 

Jacques  Cartier,  SO  miles  from  Quebec,  is  a  vil- 
lage on  the  north  side,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
of  the  same  name,  distinguished  by  the  name  of 
the  first  explorer  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence. 
Here  are  the  remains  of  the  first  church  built  in 
Canada. 


I 


CAPE    DIAMOND. 


183 


ill  and 
iih  se* 
e  cur- 
o  vary 
way  as 
jels  are 
Ms  for 
\v  them 

niles  (6 
en  tow- 
hie  bank 
le  river, 
(rriipted 
e    south 
idicular, 
\e  brow, 
le  north 
breadth 
ough   it 
out  five 
Not- 
tion   on 
y  about 
what  is 
ich  ax- 
is below 

is  a  vil- 

Ihe  river 

lame  of 

Iwrence. 

Ibuilt  in 


1 


Carouge  Creek,  on  the  north  side.  Here  a  pret- 
ty view  opens,  for  a  few  minutes,  into  the  interior, 
on  the  north  shore,  showing  the  Indian  village  of 
Lorette,  at  the  distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  with 
an  extent  of  beautiful  land,  and  a  range  of  fine 
mountains  in  tlie  rear. 

Chandiere  River  is  a  little  below,  with  a  rock 
t)n  the  lower  side,  at  its  mouth. 

Looking  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  part  of  Point 
Levi  is  seen,  covered  with  white  buildings,  one  of 
which  is  the  church.  It  is  opposite  Quebec,  which 
remains  for  a  considerable  distance  invisible.  The 
banks  rise  to  a  greater  and  greater  height,  and 
present  every  variety  of  surface. 

Sillery  Cove  is  a  mile  below,  above  which  was 
fought  the  final  battle  between  the  English  and 
French,  in  1759,  after  the  capture  of  Quebec  by 
Oeneral  Wolfe,  which  completed  the  conquest  of 
Canada. 

Wolfe's  Cove  is  behind  the  next  point.  This  is 
the  place  where  Wolfe  landed  in  the  night,  and  up 
the  precipitous  bank  he  climbed  with  his  troops, 
afterward  drawing  up  his  cannon.  Here  Gen,  Ar- 
nold afterward  took  up  his  troops,  in  1775  There 
is  a  remarkable  rock  projecting  from  the  bank,  at 
the  head  of  the  cove,  a  little  to  the  right  of  which 
is  seen  a  road  running  up  the  hill,  at  the  place 
where  the  troops  went  up,  when  there  was  nothing 
but  a  footpath.  The  spot  is  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  west  of  a  large  yellow  house  above  the  bank. 

Cape  Diamond  is  an  abrupt  bluff,  under  the  op- 
posite side  of  which  Quebec  is  situated.  It  is  348 
feet  high,  and  the  fortified  lines  on  its  brow  be- 
long to  the  city  walls,  and  the  citadel,  which  is  iur 


■■a 


r»    . 


^:( 


-  ( 


%\'\ 


I 


184 


QUEBEC. 


i 


Mi  ! 


eluded  by  them.  The  telegraph  is  raised  on  the 
Cavaliers'  Battery,  and  the  round  buildings  on  the 
ridge  are  Martello  towers,  which  serve  as  ad- 
vanced works  to  the  fortress.  The  opposite  point 
is  Point  Levi;  and  the  mountains  o(>S^  Anne  and 
Tourmente  appear  many  miles  down  the  river. 

General  Montgomery  was  killed  just  at  the  base 
of  Cape  Diamond,  in  attacking  a  blockhouse  on 
the  shore,  in  1775. 

QUEBEC. 

The  Lower  Town  of  Quebec  begins  near  this 
spot,  and  stretches  along  at  the  foot  of  the  rock, 
while  the  Upper  Town  soon  begins  to  open  to 
view  above,  though  the  principal  part  of  it  is  on 
the  top  and  the  opposite  side.  The  harbor  requires 
a  pier  for  its  protection,  on  account  of  the  extreme 
rapidity  of  the  currents  caused  by  the  tide,  and 
particularly  the  ice.  The  Castle  of  St,  Louis,  or 
the  Governor's  House,  overhangs  the  precipice, 
being  built  on  supporters  ;  interrupting  the  city 
wall,  which  encloses  the  Upper  Town.  The  nev;*^ 
Monument  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm  is  also  visible 
from  some  points  on  the  river. 

But  the  current  is  too  swift  to  allow  much  time 
for  observation  before  arriving  at  the  wharf, 
where  the  traveller  will  find  servants  in  waiting 
from  the  principal  public  houses  in  the  city  :  these 
are  all  in  the  tipper  Town,  the  ascent  to  which  is 
intricate  as  well  as  steep  and  laborious,  so  that  the 
stranger  will  want  their  assistance  as  guides. 

A  book  called  the  *' Picture  of  Quebec"  is  re- 
commended to  the  traveller. 

*     The  Lower  Town   is  crowded  and    dirty,   and 
contains  no  decent  public  houses.   After  three  or 


1  on  the 
)s  on  the 
e  as  ad- 
;ite  point 
\nne  and 

river. 

the  base 
house  on 


near  this 
the  rock, 
)  open  to 
jf  it  is  on 
r  requires 
e  extreme 
tide,  and 
Louis,  or 
I  precipice, 
g  the  city 
The  nev 
Iso  visible 

nuch  time 
le    wharf, 

n  waiting 

ity  :  these 
which  is 

o  that  the 

ides. 


.»» 


IS  re- 


[irty,   and 
three  or 


QUEBEC. 


185 


four  turns,  you  begin  to  ascend  Moimtain-street, 
to  a  gate  in  the  city  wall,  which  is  very  massive,, 
built  in  the  old  European  style,  of  solid  stone,, 
with  narrow  passaj^e  ways  for  carriages  and  foot- 
men, and  a  guard  chamber  above,  with  loop-holes- 
for  musketeers.  On  the  right,  after  passing  this- 
gate,  is  a  battery  of  heavy  guns. 

A  walk  to  the  Esplanade,  in  the  highest  part  of 
the  city,  by  the  wall,  is  very  delightful  at  morning 
or  evening,  as  it  commands  a  fine  view ;  but  Cape 
Diamond  the  finest  of  all. 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  to  seize  the 
first  pleasant  days  to  make  excursions  to  the  Falls 
of  Montmorency,  the  village  of  Lorette,  &.c. 
which  will  be  more  particularly  spoken  of  hereaf- 
ter ;  and  to  set  out  as  early  in  the  morning  as  pos- 
sible. 

The  walls  of  Quebec  enclose  the  upper  part  of 
the  hill,  and  a  little  of  its  declivity  on  the  north 
side  ;  but  the  space  is  so  small  that  the  buildings 
are  extremely  crowded,  and  the  streets  are  as 
closely  built  as  in  the  largest  cities.  Very  few  of 
the  private  houses  present  any  thing  remarkable, 
but  there  are  many  public  buildings  worthy  of 
particular  attention.  Population,  in  1825,  about 
22,000. 

The  French  Parish  Church  stands  on  one  side 
of  the  public  square,  facing  the  barracks,  where  is 
also  the  seminary.  The  church  contains  little  that 
is  remarkable,  the  whole  interior  appearing  rather 
ordinary,  and  the  pictures  having  little  to  boast  of: 
the  principal  of  them  are  a  Holy  Family,  an  As- 
cension, Crucifixion,  Descent  of  Tongues,  and  Last 


m 


ft 


1   ^  !' 


(  ! 


>w      '.  S 


s 


u 


PP 


en 


(fl  iJ 


186 


QUEBEC. 


The  CoZ/e^c  (founded  in  1663,)  wliich  stands  a 
little  to  the  right  in  coming  out  of  the  church,  is 
a  large  stone  building  in  which  a  consith^rable 
number  of  youth  are  educated  by  priests,  and  may 
be  distinguished  in  the  city  by  wearing  the  long 
black  gown,  sash,  and  cornered  cap,  common  to 
such  institutions  in  Catholic  countries.  This  build- 
ing has  four  sides,  three  of  which  arc  more  than 
210  feet  long,  40  wide,  and  3  stories  hifrh  ;  and  the 
fourth  150  feet  long,  of  4  stories.  The  garden 
wall  around  it  encloses  about  7  acres.  The  pro- 
fessors reside  in  the  buildinor. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Seminary ^  which  stands  a  lit- 
tle left  from  the  principal  gate,  contains  the  best 
collection  of  pictures,  it  is  said,  in  all  Canada  :  be- 
ginning on  the  right  hand  near  the  door,  is  a  pic- 
ture of  the  Virgin  Mary  attended  by  Angels,  &c. ; 
in  the  first  chapel  on  that  side  is  a  picture  of  the 
Crucifixion,  over  the  altar;  on  the  right,  the  Bap- 
tism of  the  Etheopian,  John's  Baptism,  St.  John  ; 
on  the  left,  a  portrait,  8t.  Peter  receiving  the  keys, 
infant  Saviour,  Devotees,  &c.  on  the  church  wall, 
nex*^^  is  a  good  picture  unknown,  then  the  Ascen- 
sion, and  Interment  of  the  Saviour  ;  and  over  the 
high  altar,  a  Holy  Family,  and  Dove  descending; 
what  appears  to  be  some  priest's  dream  ;  on  the 
leftside,  is  the  Descent  of  Tongues,  and  an  Angel 
visiting  St.  Peter  in  prison,  good;  over  the  aliar 
in  the  remaining  chapel,  is  the  Baptism  in  the  Wil- 
derness, with  a  number  of  poor  pictures  ;  and  in 
the  church  are  an  Evangelist,  Wise  Men  present- 
ing gifts,  <&c. 

In  two  gilt  boxes,  one  on  each  side  of  the  high 
altar,  are  two  skulls,  with   several  human  bones, 


ands  a 
rch,  is 
lor able 
ul  nray 
le  long 
iTion  to 
sbniUl- 
re  than 
and  the 
garden 
'he  pro- 

uls  a  lit- 
the  best 
ada  ;  be- 
is  a  pic- 
els,  &c. ; 
e  of  the 
the  Bap- 
t.  John ; 
Ithe  keys, 
rch  wall, 
le  Ascen- 
over  the 
icending ; 
;  on  the 
[an  Angel 
the  aliar 
theWil- 
;  and  in 
prcsent- 

the  high 
in  bones, 


QUEBEC. 


187 


placed  against  red  silk,  which  are  regarded  with 
superslilious  reverence,  as  holy  and  perhaps  mi- 
raculous relics;  a  lamp  is  kepi  constantly  burning 
under  that  on  the  Icl't  hand. 

The  Barracks  are  in  a  large  stone  building  op- 
posite the  church,  which  was  formerly  the  Jesuits' 
College :  it  is  three  and  four  stories  high,  about 
200  feet  long.  Here  are  quartered  most  of  the 
troops  which  garrison  the  city  ;  they  have  hereto- 
fore consisted  of  two  regiments  of  infantry,  two 
companies  of  artillery,  and  one  of  sappers  and 
4  miners.    The  Exchange,  a  new  edifice,  contains  a 

Reading  Room. 
J  Convents.     There  are  two  convents  in  Quebec ; 

one  of  them  has  about  40  Ursulines,  who  have  a 
large  convent  and  church  near  the  prison,  in  the 
west  part  of  the  city,  and  keep  a  large  school  for 
girls.  The  other  convent  is  lower  down,  and  con- 
tains an  hospital  for  diseases  of  the  lighter  kinds  ; 
while  the  most  serious  and  severe  are  treated  at 
the  nunnery  near  the  St.  Charles's  River,  about 
11  miles  above  the  town.  These  institutions, 
however,  are  not  now  open  to  visiters  as  they  for- 
merly were ;  at  least  it  is  generally  impossible  to 
''         gain  access  to  them. 

The  Parliament  House  extends  from  Prescott 
gate,  in  Mountain-street,  ne.irly  300  feet,  of  some- 
what irregular  form.  It  was  originally  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Bishop,  who  now  resides  in  the  east 
end  of  the  Seminary.  The  House  of  Assembly 
occupies  a  room  35  feet  by  65,  formerly  a  chapel; 
i  and  near  it  are  the  Speaker's  room  and  the  Libra- 
ry, while  other  apartments  are  offices,  &/C.  The 
Legislative  Council  occupy  the  third  story. 


'li:'! 


|i 


'^11 


'  m 


it 


i      \\ 


11 


II 


M,.| 


ff 


t|!. 


'Ki 


188 


QDEDBC. 


i3ii 


il 


The  Public  Offices  are  at  tlie  corner  of  Fort- 
street  and  the  Place  (rAriiies.  Above  in  the  Mu- 
seum of  the  Literary  and  Historical  Society, 
which  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  contains  some  of 
the  original  journals  of  the  Britisli  House  of  Conn- 
mons  under  Charles  1st,  said  to  have  been  brought 
to  New-England  by  Goll'e  and  Whalley. 

The  Public  Warehouse,  on  the  King's  Wharf, 
is  250  feet  in  length. 

The  Statue  of  Gen,  Wolfe,  of  wood,  is  at  the 
corner  of  Palace  and  John-streets,  and  is  said  to 
resemble  him  very  strongly. 

Gen.  Montcalm's  House  is  on  the  battery, 
towards  Palace  Gate. 

The  Hotel  Dieu  is  a  hospital  for  the  sick  poor, 
under  the  care  of  nuns.  The  grounds,  (12  acres,) 
extend  from  Couillard  st.  where  is  the  burying 
ground,  to  Palace  st.  It  was  founded  in  1637,  and 
has  liberal  funds,  but  relieves  so  many,  particular- 
ly emigrants,  that  the  provincial  parliament  render 
it  assistance.  The  building  for  the  sick  is  on  the 
north  side,  and  in  it  reside  the  Superior  and  about 
.35  nuns.  The  church  may  be  visited  with  per- 
mission of  the  Chaplain,  and  contains  the  follow- 
ing pictures:  the  Nativity,  by  Stella  ;  Virgin  and 
'Child,  by  Coypel ;  Vision  of  Therese  ;  and  Bru- 
iieau  in  Meditation.  In  the  Chaplain's  room  is  a 
picture  representing  the  tortures  inflicted  on  Bre- 
bceuf  an(^  Tallemand,  two  priests  of  the  Chapel  at 
Three  Rivers,  who  were  captured  and  killed  by  the 
Indians. 

Xhe  General  Hospital  a  mile  out  of  the  city,  on 
ChaHes  River,  w^as  founded  by  the  Bishop  in  1693, 
It  is  230  ft>  by  33,  with  a  wing,  120  by  50.     It  is 


(|l! 


CASTLE    OF    ST.    LOUIS. 


189 


f  Fort- 
the  Mu- 
j^ociety, 
some  of 
of  Corn- 
brought 

i  Wharf, 

is  at  the 
is  said  to 

battery, 

ick  poor, 
12  acres,) 
burying 
1637,  and 
articuiar- 
nt  render 
is  on  the 
nd  about 
with  per- 
lie  follow- 
irgin  and 
and   Bru- 
room  is  a 
111  on  Bre- 
Chapel  at 
led  by  the 

ie  city,  on 

in  1693. 

iO.     It  is 


i 


under  the  care  of  tlie  Superior  of  the  convent,  and 
about  45  nuns.  There  is  a  separate  building  for 
the  insane.  The  church  contains  some  copies  of 
pictures  in  the  city  churches.  The  funds  are  de- 
rived from  parliamentary  appropriations,  lands 
and  the  labor  of  the  nuns  in  ornamental  work. 

The  Arsenal  is  near  the  palace  gate,  and  con- 
tains about  100,000  stand  of  arms,  arranged  with 
great  regularity. 

The  monument  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  oppo- 
site, and  in  front  of  the  Governor's  Gardens,  bears 
this  inscription:  ^^Mortcm  inrtus  communem  ;  /a- 
main  historia  ;  monumentinn  poster itas  deditJ*^ 

Schools, — There  are  in  the  city  the  Royal  Gram- 
mar school,  the  school  of  Ursuline  Nuns,  the  Na- 
tional school,  that  of  the  Education  Society,  and 
the  British  and  Canadian  School  Society,  which  is 
Lancasterian. 

The  Protestant  Burying  Ground  is  on  Main 
street,  in  St.  John's  Suburbs,  J  m:  from  the  gate. 

The  Castle  of  St.  Louisj  about  160  feet  by  45, 
with  wings,  makes  a  less  imposing  appearance  than 
when  seen  from  the  water.  The  street  beyond 
commands  a  fine  view  :  and  there  are  several  beau- 
tiful terraced  gardens  formed  on  the  steep  side  of 
the  rock,  200  feet  high,  almost  overhanging  the 
buildings  in  the  lower  town.  It  is  the  residence 
of  the  governor  of  the  Province  of  Lower  Canada. 

The  fortifications  of  the  city  on  the  land  side  are 
strong,  and  worthy  of  particular  attention  ;  as  be- 
fore remarked,  they  may  be  examined  with  inter- 
est by  taking  a  walk  in  that  direction,  in  the  morn- 
ing or  evening. 

St  Louis's  Gate  is  the  highest  city  gate,  and  the 

16 


■.'\ 

■  i        T 
)  .        i 


':  I 

Jl 


^ 


190 


QUEBEC. 


street  of  the  same  name  conducts  to  it;  this  leads 
to  the  famous  Plains  of  Abraham.  The  monu- 
ments to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm  will  be  erected  in 
the  Upper  Garden. 

The  Esplanade  Battery  lies  between  St.  Louis 
and  St.  John's  gates,  and  contains  12  cannon  and 
4  mortars,  with  magazines  built  where  they  could 
not  be  injured  by  an  enemy's  shot.  The  ground 
slopes  in  such  a  manner  as  to  expose  a  large  extent 
of  country  to  view  ;  the  fine  fertile  plain  beyond 
St.  Charles's  River,  the  beautiful  ridge  of  lands 
beyond,  with  the  villages  of  Lorette,  Charlebourg, 
and  others  ;  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  right,  with 
Point  Levi,  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  fine  ranges 
of  distant  mountains.  The  mouth  of  the  Mont- 
morency can  easily  be  discerned,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  9  miles  from  the  city  ; 
that  is  the  spot  where  the  falls  are  to  be  seen,  and 
the  battle  ground  where  Gen.  Wolfe  made  an  un- 
successful attack  on  the  French  Gen.  Dieskau,  be- 
fore the  capture  of  the  city. 

Mounting  to  the  parapet  near  the  gate  of  St. 
Louis,  the  plan  of  the  defences  may  be  in  part  dis- 
cerned, even  by  an  unpractised  eye ;  and  by  de- 
scending and  passing  through  the  gate,  the  strength 
of  the  place  will  be  better  understood.  The  walls 
of  the  city,  the  bastions,  and  other  works,  are 
from  20  to  30  feet  in  height,  and  formed  of  stone. 
The  path  is  made  to  turn  several  abrupt  angles,  in 
order  to  expose  the  approach  to  raking  fires.  In 
coming  towards  the  gate  from  the  country,  at  the 
first  angle,  the  stranger  is  brought  to  face  8  can- 
non, placed  in  two  rows,  at  the  second  angle  2,  and 
.9t  the  third  2 ;  at  the  fourth  he  sees  3  on  the  right 


i 


0,\ 


Dil!':'!: 


THE    CITADEL. 


191 


lis  leads 

monu- 

cted  in 

t.  Louis 
non  and 
ay  could 
I  ground 
re  extent 

beyond 
of  lands 
:lebourg, 
ht,  with 
16  ranges 
le  Mont- 
left  bank 
the  city  ; 

een,  and 


^ 


e  an  un- 
skau,  be- 
te of  St. 
part  dis- 
d   by  de- 
strenglh 
'he  walls 
^rks,    are 
of  stone, 
ingles,  in 
ires.     In 
ly,  at  the 
;e  8  can- 
lie  2,  and 
the  right 


and  3  on  the  left ;  and  at  the  fifth  finds  himself  in 
front  of  the  gate,  which  has  a  gun  on  its  top.  The 
gate  is  of  very  heavy  and  durable  masonry,  and  the 
passage  through  it  is  a  dark  arclied  way,  about  65 
feet  long;  it  is  closed  by  two  heavy  doors,  with 
wickets  so  placed  as  not  to  face  each  other. 

Near  the  Hospital  is  part  of  the  old  French  wall, 
about  50  feet  high,  which  contains  geutlCiHen's  gar- 
dens. 

The  Citadel, 
on  Cape  Diamond,  is  designed  for  a  place  of  im- 
pregnable strength.  It  has  been  gradually  pro* 
gressing  fcr  a  number  of  years.  Admission  may 
be  usually  obtained  by  application  to  the  proper 
officers.  The  British  government  intended  to  de- 
vote 5000Z.  per  annum  on  these  works. 

Most  of  the  works  are  new,  though  some  parts 
of  the  old  have  been  made  to  serve.  They  include 
five  or  six  acres,  on  the  very  summit  of  Cape  Di- 
amond, and  extend  to  the  verge  of  the  precipice, 
348  feet  above  the  St.  Lawrence.  There  are  to  be 
four  bastions  and  one  demi-bastion,  a  ravelin,  in 
advance  of  the  western  bastion,  and  other  out- 
works, and  the  whole  will  enclose  40  or  50  acres. 
The  walls  are  about  40  feet  high,  and  built  perpen- 
dicularly, of  fine  he  »vn  stone  ;  the  ditch  being  blast- 
ed out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  about  50  feet  wide. 

The  CasL  .nates.  Entering  the  gates  and  passing 
behind  the  wall,  a  continued  line  of  large  rooms  is 
discovered  following  the  wall,  built  of  substantial 
brick  work,  and  bomb-proof.  These  Casemates 
are  about  50  feet  long,  20  wide,  and  16  or  18  high, 
each  to  be  lighted  by  a  door  and  two  small  win- 
dows, looking  inward,  and  pierced  at  the  other  side, 


m 

■  :'  '  ' 

■l     , 

f-    - 
- 

? 

4 

'-'  vi 

;   ;  4  iffll 

ii' 

.^: 


If^'^ 


I 


ii       m 


192 


QUEBEC. 


with  five  loop  holes  each,  for  musketry.  These 
loop  holes  are  on  the  new  plan,  narrow  inside,  and 
opening  with  steps  faced  with  iron,  to  prevent  mus- 
ket shot  from  glancing  in.  There  are  to  be  about 
40  casemates  towards  the  land  side,  the  natural 
defence  of  the  precipice  over  the  water  being  suf- 
ficiently strong  to  prevent  the  attem])ts  of  an  ene- 
my in  that  direction.  The  casemates  will  commu- 
nicate with  each  other  by  folding  doors,  which 
maybe  thrown  open  the  whole  length  of  the  bomb- 
proofs,  and  will  then  furnish  space  for  the  whole 
garrison  (from  3000  to  5000  men)  to  parade  at 
once. 

The  Subterranean  Passage  leads  from  a  little 
staircase  in  the  bastion  next  east  of  the  gate,  under 
the  ditch,  to  a  small  out-work  with  two  or  three 
casemated  rooms.  The  stairs  are  so  narrow  as  to 
admit  only  one  person  at  a  time,  and  are  construct- 
ed in  a  spiral  form,  and  in  the  neatest  manner. 
The  passage,  which  is  about  130  feet  long,  has 
also  two  branches  where  guards  might  be  placed 
to  prevent  intrusion.  The  cooking  rooms,  for  part 
of  the  garrison,  are  near  the  second  bastion  ;  and 
over  the  whole  are  to  be  mounted  large  cannon. 

Brock^s  Battery-,  a  w(»rk  of  wood  and  earth, 
raised  during  the  late  war  with  the  United  States, 
is  to  be  partly  retained  and  converted  into  a  Cav- 
alier's Battery.  This,  as  well  as  the  magazines, 
barracks,  officer's  quarters,  &c.  is  within  the 
works  ;  and  at  the  corner  next  the  river  and  town, 
is  the  old  Cavalier's  Battery,  a  very  heavy  stone 
building,  originally  erected  for  the  palace  of  the 
French  governors  of  Quebec :  below  it,  at  the 
water's  edge,    Gen.  Montgomery  was   killed.     It 


r 


brock's  battery. 


193 


These 
3e,  und 
it  mus- 
3  about 
natural 
ing  suf- 
an  ene- 
jommu- 
which 
B  bomb- 
e  whole 
irade  at 

a   little 
e,  under 
)r    three 
row  as  to 
onstruct- 
manner. 
11  g,   has 
placed 
I,  for  part 
on ;  and 
annon. 
d    earth, 
d  States, 
o  a  Cav- 
gazines, 
thin    the 
nd  town, 
vy  stone 
ce  of  the 
,    at   the 
illed.     It 


has  dark  vaults,  the  walls  are  six  feet  thick,  near 
the  ground,  and  from  the  Telegraph  on  the  top  is 
one  of  the  finest  views  that  can  be  imagined  :  the 
broad  surface  of  the  St.  Lawrence  lies  below,  and 
stretches  off  far  to  the  right  and  left;  the  whole 
city  of  Quebec  is  crowded  together  almost  beneath 
you,  while  Point  Levi,  with  its  white  buildings,  is 
seen  opposite,  with  a  long  stretch  of  lofly  shores. 
Turning  the  eye  in  the  opposite  direction,  the 
beautiful  ridge  of  land,  which  begins  many  miles 
down  the  river  on  the  northern  side,  and  rises 
with  a  gentle  swell  t>om  the  shore,  covered  with 
the  richest  and  most  varied  display  of  cultivation, 
offers  a  most  delightful  view  over  an  extensive  and 
fertile  region,  beautiful  in  form,  divided  into  innu- 
merable portions,  cultivated  by  a  dense  and  indus- 
trious population,  and  scattered  with  their  cluster- 
ed dwellings.  On  the  left  appears,  among  other 
villages,  that  of  Lorette,  with  the  Montreal  road 
for  nine  miles  almost  lined  with  houses  ;  and  on 
the  right  that  of  Beaufort,  occupying  the  ridge  of 
the  high  ground,  while  a  little  beyond  it  is  the 
chasm  into  which  the  River  Montmorency  plunges, 
with  its  famous  cataract,  just  before  it  joins  the  St. 
Lawrence.  All  the  horizon  in  that  direction,  and 
indeed  from  the  west  to  the  north,  and  quite  to  the 
east,  is  broken  by  ranges  of  fine  mountains,  some 
of  them  near  and  bold  ;  and  in  other  places,  be- 
tween them,  distant  blue  ridges  are  disclosed,  three, 
four,  or  five  in  succession.  Tsononthuan  Moun- 
tain, which  has  two  summits  and  is  2000  feet  high 
in  the  north-west,  is  the  southern  extreme  of  the 
granite  range  reaching  from  the  Labrador  coast  to 
Lake   Superior.     In   the   south  and   south-west, 

16* 


•t^ 


I 


H- 


.1.  j  f 


i    *^ 


'  ill 
f 


■If 

m 


m 


m'' 


§ 


Is''-     aii 


'  li 


II; 


11  i 


'|i' 


,'iir 


I: 


» 


194 


QVEDEO. 


where  an  aperture  is  left,  is  a  distant  and  lower 
range,  scattered  with  cottages.  It  may,  perhaps, 
not  he  hazarding  too  much  to  say,  that  no  scene 
in  Canada,  or  the  United  States,  can  bo?\st  of  a 
combination  of  objects  comparable  in  variety  and 
magnificence  to  those  here  presented  to  view. 

Cape  Diamond  derives  its  name  from  the  beau- 
tiful little  rock-crystals,  which  are  found  in  veins 
of  white  crystalized  limestone,  disseminated  in  the 
black  limestone  blasted  out  for  the  works.  The 
quartz  stones  used  in  the  walls  are  very  fine,  and 
are  brought  from  three  miles  above  the  city.  Of 
those  prepared  for  corner  stones  of  a  bastion,  near 
the  old  governor's  house,  are  homogeneous  mass- 
es of  granular  quartz,  weighing  1 J  or  two  tons,  or 
even  more.  Some  of  the  crystals  are  perfect  and 
brilliant,  though  small. 

There  is  a  long  staircase  of  about  600  steps, 
leading  from  this  elevated  position  down  to  the 
Lower  Town,  and  an  inclined  plane,  about  500  ft. 
long,  to  raise  heavy  articles. 

The  Plains  op  Abraham. 

This  interesting  tract  of  ground,  the  field  where 
Gen.  Wolfe  succeeded,  by  a  bold  and  decisive 
blow,  in  capturing  the  city  of  Quebec  in  1759,  lies 
at  only  about  the  aistance  of  a  mile,  and  should 
not  be  neglected.  Indeed  it  would  be  found  am- 
ply to  repay  the  trouble,  to  make  a  much  longer 
excursion  in  that  direction,  as  the  road  is  fine  and 
the  country  interesting.* 

♦  After  the  battle  of  Montmorency,  while  the  FiUjrlish  fleet  lay  up  the 
river,  at  one  o'clock  in  the  nii,'ht  of  September    12th,  '  759.  Gen.  Wolfe 

Quietly  transported  liis  troops  from  the  fleet  into  tlie  boats,  and  cautiously 
assed  down  the  river.     He  intended  to  land  two  or  three  miles  above 
Cape  Diamond,  aad  got  possession  of  the  Heiglits  of  Abraham  :  but  wm 


■;il!l 


lower 
rhaps, 
I  scene 
,t  of  a 

;ty  and 

BW. 

e  bcau- 
n  veins 
[I  in  the 
5.     The 
ne,   and 
ity.    Of 
:)n,  near 
IS  mass- 
tons,  or 
feet  and 

O  steps, 
n  to  the 
jt  500  ft. 


Id  where 
decisive 
759,  lies 
should 
und  am- 
i  longer 
fine  and 


kt  lay  up  the 
Gen.  Wolfe 
jid  cautiously 
[inilcs  above 
lam  •.  but  wa« 


THE    PLAlNH    OF    AliRAHAM. 


195 


Passing  out  at  St.  Louis's  Gate,  you  observe  a 
number  of  liandsome  tlwellinjrs  and  oardcns,  until 
you  get  some  (listaiicu  bciyuiid  the  lowers,  wlien 
you  turn  into  the  llacc  Course  on  the  kH't  side  of 
the  road.  The  found:ition  of  a  monument  to  Wolfe 
and  Montcalm  was  iiiid  in  the  city  in  1827.  The 
spot  wliere  Gen.  Wolfe  fell  is  near  the  corner  of 
the  fenced  field,  ofl"  towards  the  river.  A  little 
east  of  the  place,  is  the  remnant  of  a  breastwork, 
with  several  angles,  marked  out  by  bushes,  and 
commanding  a  fine  view.  The  British  line  was 
first  formed  across  the  plain,  aiui  ran  near  the 
house  by  the  road,  and  the  batti*  aas  fought  prin- 
cipally on  that  ground. 

The  Plains  of  Abiaham  are  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  breadth,  extending  a  great  distance  to- 
wards the  west,  with  a  gentle  slope  on  each  side, 
and  so  smooth  as  to  offer  an  admirable  field  for 
the  manoBuvreing  and  display  of  troops.  From 
the  old  breastwork,  not  only  this  ground  is  over- 
drifted  down  so  rapidly  that  he  passed  the  place  without  discovering  it, 
and  then  resolved  to  attcm])t  alaji(liii<,'  at  VV'oIfo\s  Cove,  just  ahove  the 


city.  The  shore  is  bold,  and  the  rocks  .<o  ]ii}:h  and  steep,  that  only  a  few 
sentinels  were  pasted  along  tlie  precipices  and  tlio  margin.  This  despe- 
rate enterprise,  however,  did  not  disconrago  the  leader  or  his  troops  ;  but 
an  hour  before  daybreak  they  had  ell'ected  their  landing,  and  commenced 
the  arduous  ascent,  by  a  narrow,  hrokcn  path,  nt  the  top  of  which  was 
Stationed  a  captain's  guard.  As  fast  as  the  Enjjlish  reached  the  summit 
they  formed  on  the  level  plain. 

At  ten  o'clock  Montcalm  arrived  from  above,  and  a  battle  was  fought, 
which  decided  the  fate  of  Canada.  IVlontcalm  stationed  1500  sharp 
shooters  in  front,  but  the  British  coolly  stood  their  ground  till  the  French 
were  within  40  yards,  when  they  opened  their  fire,  and  soon  afterward 
linated  the  engagement  with  their  bayonets.    The  place  where  the 


greatest  carnage  was  made,  is  near  the  river's  bank,  where  the  English 
left  was  closely  engaged  with  the  French  riglit.  The  action  la.sted  two 
hours,  and  in  it  both  chiefs  received  their  mortal  wounds.  Gen.  Wolfe 
was  shot  in  two  or  three  places.  W.hen  hardly  any  signs  of  life  remained, 
news  was  brought  that  the  day  had  declared  for  the  Bntiish;  "  Then," 
•aid  ho,  "  I  die  content." 


1,     I 


!! 


I  if  ii 


ill 


M 


I:     la 


i! 


106 


(QUEBEC. 


looked,  but  the  shipping  in  Wolfe's  Cove,  the  -op- 
posite shore,  the  river  to  the  next  turn,  &.c.  ..  he 
spot  appears,  indeed,  inferior  in  elevation  only  to 
Cape  Diamond  and  the  middle  tower. 

Wolfe's  Cove  is  about  a  mile  further  west,  or 
half  a  miie  beyond  the  large  house  seen  near  the 
river's  bank.  A  branch  of  the  road  leads  off  to 
it  from  the  left,  and  descends  to  the  shore  by  a 
passage  cut  out  long  since  the  lime  of  Gen.  Wolfe, 
as  the  cove  is  now  a  great  deposite  for  lumber. 
The  course  which  he  followed  up  the  bank,  lay 
along  the  channel  ot  a  little  brook,  which  leads 
cfT  to  the  right,  while  the  road  goes  straight  up  the 
bank. 

Siege  of  Quet^ec  in  1775.  The  scenes  we  have 
thus  briefly  recalled  are  not  the  only  ones  of  a 
military  character  of  which  this  commanding  and 
delightful  plain  has  been  the  theatre. 

In  1775,  soon  after  the  commencement  of  the 
Revolution,  the  Continental  Congress  prepared  an 
expedition  against  Canada.  It  consisted  of  two 
divisions:  one  under  Gen.  Montgomery  came  down 
Lake  Champlain  and  took  St.  John's,  Chambly, 
Sorel,  I'hree  Rivers,  and  then  proceeded  down 
the  St.  Lawrence  to  this  place.  The  other,  under 
Gen.  Arnold,  took  the  route  through  the  wilder- 
ness of  Maine  for  Quebec. 

Arnold  had  10  companies  of  infantry,  besides  S 
of  riflemen,  and  one  of  artillery,  with  a  few  vol- 
unteers. They  proceeded  up  the  Kennebeck,  but 
suffered  so  much  from  fatigue  and  scarcity  that 
many  fell  sick,  and  one  division  returned.  The 
remainder,  however,  reached  Point  Levi  on  the 
9ih  of  November,  and  alarmed  the  city.     The  bat- 


I 


i 


FALLS    OF    MONTMORENCY. 


197 


he  '^p- 

\  he 
)nly  to 

^est,  or 
ear  the 
;  off  to 
•e  by  a 
Wolfe, 
lumber, 
nk,  lay 
h  leads 
t  up  the 

we  have 
les  of  a 
ling  and 

t  of  the 
jared  an 
of  two 
e  down 
hambly, 
id  down 
r,  under 
wilder- 

lesides  3 

few  vol- 

leck,  but 

Icity  that 

The 

\{  on  the 

'he  bat- 


teaux  had  been  removed,  and  the  strong  wind  de- 
tained them  from  crossin^r,  alter  tlicy  had  been 
siip|)licd  by  the  Canadians.  The  Kni>lish  frigate 
Lizard  and  several  other  vessels  were  also  in  tlie 
river.  He  at  length,  however,  cllected  a  landing 
a  little  above  Wolfe's  Cove,  and  marching  down 
the  shore  climbed  up  the  rocks  at  that  place,  and 
surrounded  the  city  without  eflect.  He  then 
retired  20  miles  to  Point  aux  Trembles,  and  wait- 
ed for  Gen.  Montgomery,  who  arrived,  after  great 
trials,  Dec.  1st,  with  about  300  men. 

The  two  generals  afterward  marched  to  Quebec, 
and  planting  their  mortars  on  the  snow  and  ice, 
fired  into  the  town  with  little  effect.  The  small 
pox  broke  out,  and  the  cold  was  severe  ;  but  the 
town  was  attacked  at  four  points  at  once,  in  a 
snow  storm,  without  success.  Montgomery  was 
killed,  on  the  shoie,  about  100  yards  from  the  foot 
of  the  railway,  under  Cape  Diamond.  One  de- 
tachment was  taken,  and  Arnold  retired  three  miles 
and  intrenched  himself. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorency.  Hire  a  coach, 
a  gig,  a  caleche  or  a  saddle  horse,  and  set  out,  if 
possible,  early  in  the  morning.  In  a  caleche,  yoii 
will  have  the  advantage  of  a  guide  in  your  driver. 
Pass  through  the  Palace  gate  and  a  village  divid- 
ed from  Quebec  only  by  the  wall,  cross  the  bridge 
over  St.  Charles's  River,  which  forms  a  regular 
serpentine,  and  enter  the  beautiful  cultivated  plain 
beyond.  A  Convent  and  hospital  are  seen  about 
a  mile  on  the  left,  and  a  handsome  succession  of 
fields  is  observed  on  both  sides,  divided  by  low  pa- 
lings. At  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  the 
road  passes  several  country  houses. 


;    >< 


irt: 

K    '    1 


>il 


i 


198 


QUEBEiT?. 


Riding  down  the  coast,  at  a  considerable  eleva- 
tion from  the  river,  many  fine  views  are  presented 
of  the  opposite  banks,  the  isle  of  Orleans,  the 
mountains  of  St.  Anne  and  Tourmente  down  the 
river.  The  dwellings  are  small,  and  the  inhabi- 
tants poor  and  numerous.  The  channel  south  of 
the  isle  of  Orleans  is  the  only  one  used  by  ships 
for  some  years  past,  but  the  northern  has  been 
surveyed  recently.  The  latter  is  that  by  which 
Admiral  Saguenay's  fleet  came  up  with  Wolfe's 
army. 

Beaufort  is  a  village  principally  composed  of 
such  buildings,  stretching  for  a  great  distance  a- 
long  the  road. 

On  approaching  the  Montmorency,  the  road  turns 
to  the  left,  and  then  to  the  right,  on  an  extensive, 
smooth,  and  gradual  ascent,  part  of  which  was  the 
field  of  a  bloody  slaughter,  suffered  by  a  division 
of  Gen.  Wolfe's  army,  in  1759,  a  short  time  pre- 
vious to  his  battle  on  the  Heights  of  Abraham. 
The  position  of  the  armies  will  be  more  easily  un- 
derstood on  reaching  the  opposite  side  of  the  river; 
it  is  therefore  sufficient  to  remark  here,  that  the 
French  lines  were  bounded  by  the  nearer  bank,  as 
the  remains  of  their  intrenchments  on  the  left  still 
testify ;  and  that  the  British  came  up  from  the 
shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  right,  to  attack 
two  of  their  nearest  batteries,  before  the  second 
of  which  they  were  cut  to  pieces. 

Dismounting  in  a  little  wood  and  fastening  the 
horses,  you  may  proceed  along  the  precipitous 
bank  of  the  Montmorency,  by  a  footpath,  to  see 
the  falls  from  this  side.  As  it  is  a  difficult  way, 
and  the  view  more  fine  and  unobstructed  from  the 


FALLS   OF   MONTMORENCV, 


199 


eleva- 
te n  ted 
},    the 
rn  the 
nhabi- 
ith    of 
'  ships 
5  been 
which 
Volfe's 

osed  of 
ance  a- 

id  turns 
tensive, 
was  the 
jivision 
e  pre- 
raham. 
sily  un- 
e  river; 
that  the 
ank, as 
eft  still 
lorn   the 
attack 
second 

ling  the 

jipitous 

to  see 

It   way, 

:om  the 


I 


opposite  side,  it  is  hardly  worth  the  trouble,  un- 
less you  have  plenty  of  time.  You  have  to  clam- 
ber rocks,  pass  down  a  long  ladder,  and  stand  on 
the  verge  of  an  abyss  into  which  the  cataract 
dashes.  Water  is  drawn  off  here  in  a  wooden  race, 
for  the  supply  of  Mr.  Patterson's  great  saw-mills, 
which  are  worthy  of  being  visited. 

It  is  better,  therefore,  to  follow  the  road  on  foot, 
to  cross  the  bridge  (where  you  pay  a  sous,)  and 
entering  the  fields  on  the  right,  follow  down  the 
course  of  the  river.  There  are  several  fine  points 
of  view,  from  which  the  falls  appear  to  great  ad- 
vantage ;  but  on  account  of  the  height  and  steep- 
ness of  the  banks,  it  is  necessary  to  descend  to- 
wards the  St.  Lawrence,  and  then  return  by  the 
margin,  to  obtain  a  sight  of  them  from  below. 

On  the  fine  elevated  point  formed  by  the  junc- 
tion of  the  two  rivers,  and  commanding  an  unob- 
structed view  upon  the  St.  Lawrence  for  many 
miles  up  and  down,  with  several  lofty  mountains 
below,  the  isle  of  Orleans  opposite,  Quebec  above, 
and  the  cataract  close  at  hand,  the  British  here  took 
a  strong  position  in  July,  1759  ;  and  from  this 
place  made  a  bold,  butunsuccessful  attempt  against 
their  enemies  on  the  opposite  side.  The  remains 
of  their  intrenchments  are  plainly  visible  under 
our  feet.  The  natural  and  artificial  strength  of  the 
city  combined,  w^as  enough,  even  in  those  days,  to 
discourage  any  attempt  against  it  from  the  water; 
and  in  order  to  prevent  an  approach  by  land,  the 
French  occupied  two  strong  positions  at  a  distance 
above  and  below  it:  the  former  at  Sillery  River, 
the  other  at  the  Montmorency.  Wolfe  here  made 
a  first,  but  unsuccessful  attempt ;  and  afterward,  by 


'>'" 


U.-\ 


■'.   t 


nl 


200 


QUEBFX'. 


a  still  more  desperate  blow,  accomplished  his  wish- 
es at  tlie  Plains  of  Abraham.  For  an  account  of 
the  battle  of  Montmorency,  we  refer  to  the  note.* 
The  best  view  of  the  cataract  is  to  be  enjoyed 
from  the  spur  of  the  rock,  which  projects  from  the 
eastern  shore  ;  but  the  spray,  which  keeps  the  sur- 
face covered  with  a  coat  of  green,  will  drench  the 
clothes  in  a  few  minutes. 

The  height  of  the  fall  is  said  to  be  240  feet ;  and 
the  banks  on  both  sides  below  form  a  precipitous 
and  frightful  precipice,  of  rather  a  curving  form,  of 
bare,  sharp,  slaty  rock,  whose  strata  incline  from 
north  to  south,  and  the  perpendicular  veins  run 
nearly  N.  \V.  and  S.  E.  At  low  water  the  Mont- 
morency maybe  forded,  with  some  caution,  where 
it  was  passed  by  the  British  troops  ;  but  the  tide 
rises  fast  and  high. 


*  Battle  of  Montmorency. 

When  Oeri.  Wolfo  came  to  operate  against  Quebec  in  June,  1759,  he 
posted  Ills  army  on  the  island  of  Orleans  while  the  fleet  blockaded  the 
port.  At  the  end  of  that  month  General  Monckton  was  sent  over  to 
Point  Levi,  and  cstablLshed  himself  there,  whence  he  was  able  to  fire 
upon  the  city.  Above  the  river  Montmorency,  the  landing  was  pro- 
tected by  the  Marquis  de  Montcalm.  Gen.  Wolfe  landed  his  troops  at 
the  nioutii  of  the  Montmorency  during  the  nigiit  of  July  'Jlst,  and  ere<ted 
a  battery  on  ihe  precipice  north-east  of  the  falls,  the  remains  of  which 
are  to  be  seen-  The  French  were  intrenched  along  the  opi>osite  bank : 
and  on  the  31st  of  July,  Gen.  Wolfe  sent  his  troops  to  ford  the  Mont- 
morency below  the  falls,  to  storm  their  works.  Som»^  of  Gen.  Monckton's 
force  from  Point  Levi  in  crossing  with  boats  got  aground,  and  difficulty 
ensued ;  but  the  landing  was  made  in  the  afternoon  on  the  beach  to  the 
right  of  the  saw-mills.  (TJie  navigator,  Capt.  Cook,  piloted  these  boats  ) 
They  came  however,  too  late  :  for  the  thirteen  grenadier  companies,  with 
200  Americans,  who  had  landed  before,  refused  to  wait  or  to  form,  as  had 
been  intended,  in  four  columns,  but  marched  tumultuously  round  the  rock, 
and  rushed  up  hill  in  a  mass  towards  the  French  works,  at  some  distance 
back  from  the  old  redoubt  on  the  point,  which  had  been  deserted.  A 
warm  fire  however  was  directed  against  them,  which  cut  down  about  500 
men,  and  they  were  obliged  to  retreat  to  the  redoubt,  whence  they  were 
ordered  back  to  the  beach  to  form.  The  enterprise  was  then  interrupted 
by  a  severe  storm,  and  finally  abandoned. 


ROUTE    FROM    QUEBEC    TO    BOSTON. 


201 


is  wish- 
ount  of 
3  note.* 
enjoyed 
rom  the 
the  sur- 
jnch  the 

;et;  and 
pxipitous 
form,  of 
ine  from 
/eins  run 
he  Mont- 
>n,  where 
;  the  tide 


June,  1759,  he 
[lockaded  the 
sent  over  to 
ts  able  to  fire 
ling  was  pro- 
his  troops  at 
ft,  and eretted 
[ains  of  which 
lp|)Osite  bank : 
[rd  the  Mont- 
h.  Monckton's 
and  difficulty 
beach  to  the 
A  these  boats  ) 
^panics,  with 
k  form,  as  had 
[und  the  rock, 
some  distance 
deserted.     A. 
)wn  about  500 
ice  they  were 
m  interrupted 


The  Village  of  Lorette  may  be  taken  in 
the  way  returning  from  Montniorrncy,  if  there 
should  be  time  enough  remaining  (which  is  barely 
possible,)  and  the  rit'.e  along  the  high  ridge  lead- 
ing in  that  direction,  will  be  found  delightful.  Lo- 
rette is  an  Indian  village,  with  a  Cathdic  church, 
and  the  stranger  may  furnish  himself  with  mocca- 
sins, belts,  pipes,  6lc, 

Route  from  Quebec  to  Boston.     It  is  proposed, 
by  the  slate  of  Maine,  to  open   a  road  from  Hal- 
lowell  up  the  course  of  the  Kennrbeck   river,  to 
the  Cnnada  line    near  Quebec.     There   is  a  com- 
munication  kept  up  to  some  extent  between  the 
two  places,   and   considerable   numbers  of  cattle 
are   driven   every  year  that  way ;  but  for  a  great 
distance  it  is  necessary  to  pass  through  a  wilder- 
ness,   and  in  consequence  of  the  want  of  inhabi- 
tants, there  is  no  shelter  to  be  found   for  man   or 
beast,   for   several   days'    journeys.     The    names 
and  distances  of  the  principal  places  on  this  wild 
and  unfrequented  route,  are  given  below.     When 
the  proposed  road  shall  have  been  opened,  it  will 
be  found  a  convenient  way  to  New-England,  for 
those   who   do  not    wish  to  return    by  Montreal, 
and  will  become  peopled  and  frequently  travelled. 
This  is  the  route  by  which  Gen.  Arnold  approach- 
ed Quebec  in  1775. 

Quebec  to  the  Chaudiere,  or 
Riviere  du  Loup     .... 

Moose  River  .         .         ,         . 

Forks  of  the  Kennebcck 
Upper  settlement  on  do. 
Hallowell       ..... 

Boston  ...... 

17 


60 

miles. 

37 

97 

24 

121 

12 

133 

67 

200 

170 

370 

1 

1 

I '"' 

i 

II 

Ill 

\"-i\- 

MM' 
I 


i  B'  !i  il 


\i 


^  Ml 


if-  ' 


202 


ROUTES    FROM    QUEBEC. 


Another  route  along  the  Penobscot  is  also  to  be 
surveyed  by  the  authority  of  the  state  of  Maine. 

Land  route  from  Quebec  to  Montreal,  Upper 
roadk  (The  ph-asanter.)  1st  post  Lorette,  16 
miles;  2d.  Jacques  Cartier,  16;  3d.  Descham- 
beaux,  16;  4th.  St.  Anne,  1(3;  5th.  Batiscamp,  8; 
()th.  Channplain,  9  ;  7tli.  Aux  Cayes,  8  ;  8th.  Trois 
Rivieres,  6. 

Lower  road.  1st.  post,  Cape  Rouge,  9  miles; 
2d.  St.  Augustine,  9  ;  3d.  Point  aux  Trembles,  8; 
4th.  Ecureil,  9  ;  5th.  Cape  Sante,  9,  (Garneau'd 
inn,  called  "^Ae  Three  Sisters,^'  is  excellent.)^  6th. 
Deschambeaux,  &c.  8. 

Under  the  administration  of  Gov,  Craig,  in 
Canada,  a  road  was  opened  between  this  province 
and  the  present  territory  of  Maine;  and  the  in- 
habitants of  the  states  continuing  it,  a  stage  coach 
actually  ran  from  Quebec  to  Boston,  which  is  270 
miles  distant.  It  was  afterward  neglected;  and 
the  road  became  so  much  overgrown,  that  it  would 
require  clearing  again  to  be  useful. 

Route  from  Quebec  to  Montreal. 

Leaving  the  dock,  you  pass  under  Cape  Dia- 
mond, nearly  at  the  foot  of  which  General  Mont- 
gomery  was  killed  in  1775. 

Wolfe's  Cove  is  about  a  mile  beyond.  See  page 
196. 

For  the  other  places  along  the  St.  Lawrence, 
see  the  map,  and  the  notices  of  them  in  the  route 
from  Montreal  to  Quebec. 

Chambly,  15  m.  from  Montreal,  is  a  small  vil- 
lage. Near  the  middle  of  it  stands  the  old  fort, 
on  a  point,  surrounded  by  a  ditch.  It  is  an  old 
square  building,  perhaps   180   feet  on   each  side. 


I 


Iso  to  be 
Maine. 

Upper 
rette,  16 
)escham- 
camp,  8; 
;ih.  Trois 

,  9  miles ; 
mbles,  8 ; 
jarneau'd 

Craig,  in 
3  province 
id  the  in- 
lage  coach 
liich  is  270 
jcted;  and 
at  it  would 

lEAL. 

:ape   Dia- 
ral  Mont- 
See  page 

Lawrence, 
h  the  route 


small  vil- 
le  old  fort, 
is  an 


old 


?ach  side, 


PA8SA0K    UP    LAKE    CHAMPLAIN. 


203 


with  bastions  at  the  corners,  but  incapable  of  with- 
standing heavy  cannon.  This  fort  was  taken  by 
Majors  Brown  and  Livingston,  in  1765,  who  were 
sent  out  with  a  strong  detachment  by  Gen.  Mont- 
gomery, while  he  was  besieging  St.  John's.  The 
garrison,  being  very  feehle,  surrendered. 

Passage  from  St.  John's  to  Whitehall. 

St.  John's.  Isle  aux  Noix,  10  miles;  Rouse's 
Point,  II;  Chazy,  12;  Plattsburgh,  15;  Port 
Kent,  8;  Burlington,  10;  Charlotte,  Essex,  15; 
Port€linton,  10;  Dalliba's  Works,  Port  Henry, 
0;  Chimney  Point,  12;  Ticonderoga,  15;  White- 
hall, 25. 

For  the  principal  places  on  the  lake,  see  the 
Index. 

At  the  time  when  Gen.  St,  Clair  evacuated  Ti- 
conderoga, in  1777,  the  following  arrangements 
were  made  for  retreat.  The  baggage,  hospital 
furniture,  sick,  park  of  artillery,  stores,  and  pro- 
visions, embarked  under  Colonel  Long,  under 
strong  convoy,  in  200  batteaux  and  five  armed  gal- 
leys. The  main  army  went  via  Castleton,  with 
St.  Clair  at  the  head  and  Col.  Francis  in  the  rear, 
and  the  general  rendezvous  was  at  Skeenesborough 
(Whitehall.)  A  house  which  took  fire  on  Mount 
Independence  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Brit- 
ish, who  soon  began  the  pursuit.  Gen.  Frazer, 
with  grenadiers  and  light  troops,  with  Reidesel 
behind  him,  followed  by  land  ;  while  Burgoyne 
cut  through  the  boom  and  bridge,  and  sailed  up 
Wood  Creek.  His  gun-boats  and  ships  overtook 
the  American  flotilla,  took  two  galleys,  blew  up 
three,  and  the  Americans  set  fire  to  the  rest  and 
fled  Qn  to  Fort  Annei 


m 


I 


Mi 


'M 


•I 


:,ii 

li 

,11 

.  1 

ill 

1 

h 

J 

1 

204 


ROUTE  FROM  CANADA. 


^  On  leaving  Ticonderoga,  the  lake  soon  becomesJ 
much  narrower.  At  about  nine  miles  distance, 
the  Scotch  Farms  are  seen  on  the  western  shore. 
They  are  in  the  township  of  Putnam,  and  present 
an  aspect  less  wild  than  most  of  the  surrounding 
scenes. 

Looking  back  on  Ticonderoga  from  this  place, 
Mount  Defiance  appears  at  about  nine  miles  dis- 
tance. It  descends  on  the  left  to  the  Scotch 
Farms,  which  are  pri  icipally  cleared  land,  and  is 
a  good  Idndmark.  Beyond  it  is  another  mountaia 
sloping  like  it.  Ticonderoga  here  appears  to 
close  up  the  passage  of  the  lake,  with  Sword's 
Point  on  the  left. 

The  Four  Channels.  Fourteen  miles  from 
Whitehall,  the  lake  suddenly  contracts  itself  into 
four  narrow  passages,  between  two  ranges  of 
mountains,  and  its  bed,  at  low  water,  appears  al- 
most entirely  occupied  by  a  little  meadow  of  the 
brightest  green,  through  which  the  channels  wind 
with  beautiful  serpentines.  The  rocky  points  on 
both  sides  se*\n  os  if  forcibly  parted  by  an  earth- 
quake. 

Some  distance  beyond,  where  the  creek  enters 
a  small  tract  of  level  ground,  it  passes  between 
two  remarkable  rocks,  with  precipitous  banks  like 
walls,  about  50  feet  high,  like  great  natural  bas- 
tions erected  to  guard  the  straits. 

South  Bay  opens  to  the  south,  five  miles  be- 
tween high  mountains.  Here  the  creek  takes  a 
sudden  turn  to  the  east,  communicating  with  the 
bay  by  a  little  channel  sometimes  scarcely  20  yards 
across.  General  Dieskau  took  this  route  with  his 
army,  in  going  towards  Fort  Edward,  in  1755. 


WHITEHALL. 


becomeai 
jistance, 
n  shore, 
present 
ounding 

is  place, 
liles  dis- 
Scotch 
1,  and  is 
iiountaia 
:)ears  to 
Sword's 

les  from 
self  into 
mges  of 
pears  al- 
V  of  the 
els  wind 
oints  on 
n  earth- 

k  enters 
between: 
nks  like 
ral  bas- 

liles  be- 
takes a 
i^ith  the 
20  yards 
with  hia 
755. 


^05 


Oi 


Deer  are  sometimes  seen  here  in  passing 
the  eastern  side  of  the  bay,  on  the  mountain,  is  a 
natural  ice^'house  about  four  miles  off. 

The  DeviVs  Pulpit  is  a  singular  cavity  in  the 
face  of  a  bare  precipice  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
creek,  at  a  considerable  elevation,  in  the  form  of 
a  wedge,  and  so  regular  as  to  seem  a  work  of  art, 
although  probably  made  by  the  falling  of  a  mass 
of  the  rock. 

Distant  mountains  open  to  the  view  in  front,  as 
we  proceed. 

The  Elbow  is  a  narrow  part  of  the  creek,  with 
two  short  turns,  through  which  the  passage  re- 
quires a  very  exact  helm. 

East  Bay  strikes  off  at  the  first  bend,  and  makes 
Up  five  miles,  along  a  romantic  country.  A  su- 
gar-loaf hill  will  be  observed  at  a  little  distance 
on  the  right,  which  rises  above  Whitehall,  and 
makes  the  approach  to  that  place  quite  pictur- 
esque. 

WHITEHALL.  On  the  top  of  a  rock  over 
the  harbor  was  formerly  a  battery,  and  in  the 
town  a  blockhouse.  Numerous  boats  and  great 
quantities  of  lumber  are  usually  seen  here,  as  the 
Chan  plain  or  Northern  canal  begins  at  the  bridge, 
where  are  two  locks,  with  a  sluiceway,  and  a  rocky 
channel. 

The  heights  at  this  place  were  occupied  by  Bur- 
goyne's  right  wing,  while  he  was  preparing  to 
march  towards  Saratoga ;  his  centre  was  formed 
by  Gen.  Frazer ;  the  Brunswickers,  on  the  left, 
rested  on  the  river  of  Caslleton  ;  and  the  Hes- 
sians were  at  the  head  of  East  Bay. 

Roads. — Stage  coaches  go  south,  on  the  arrival 

17* 


H 


306 


nOUTE    FROM    CANADA. 


m 


t\ 


HI 


'■W|| 


of  the  steamboat  in  two  directions  :  one  on  each 
side  of  Wood  Check  and  the  ilndson  river.  That 
on  the  west  side  is  reeonunended  to  those  who  are 
goin<r  directly  on  to  Albany,  as  it  passes  ab)njr  the 
rontc  of  the  Champluin  canal,  by  the  *» Surrender 
Ground, ''  and  near  the  *']3attlc  (i round  of  He- 
mis's  lleiohts."     Coaciies  also  go  to  the  S[)rings. 

There  is  a  Koad  to  Uoston,  178  ni.,  through 
Walpole : 

To  Alhany,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Hudson^ 
79  //I.  West  Granvilhs  II  miles;  Kast  Gran- 
ville,* 3;  Hebron,  9;  Salem,  8;  Cambridge,  16;: 
Pittstown,  13;  Lansingburgh,  JO;  Troy,  3;  Al- 
bany, 6. 

To  Aldayn,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson, 
68  7/7,  Fort  Anne,  12;  Fort  Edward,  1).  Here  a 
coach  passes  to  Sa7^atofi,'a  Sprinij^s.  Fort  Miller^ 
8;  Schuylersville,  G;  British  Linee,  7.  Passing 
Demises  Hei.o^'htSj  Stillwater,  8;  Borough,  3:  Wa- 
terford,  8i;   New  Mohawk  Bridge,  1. 

The  road  accompanies  the  course  of  Wood 
Creek,  w^hich  is  dammed  and  used  for  a  canal,  to 
which  its  narrowness  and  depth  give  it  a  strong 
resemblance.  This  creek  is  famous  in  the  history 
of  the  operations  in  this  region  during  the  Revo- 
lutionary and  French  wars ;  and  after  repeated 
exertions  to  clear  it  of  the  logs,  &c.,  by  which  it 

*  Sadd/e  Mounfaiu,  whoso  lofty  ridgo  will  ho,  seen  from  almost  every 
point  in  tiiis  vicinity,  is  said  to  be  4,000  feet  above  tiic  ocean,  and  2,800 
feet  higher  than  the  site  of  VVillinius'  College.  It  derives  its  name  from 
its  resemblance  to  a  riding  sadd.e.  Snow  lies  late  upon  its  top,  whcro 
the  climate  is  so  cold  as  to  admit  only  a  stinted  growth  to  the  spruce,  yel- 
low birch,  beech,  fir,  mountain  ash,  and  other  trees  which  are  there  to  be 
found.  Vegetation  is  there  more  than  ii  month  behind  the  va'leys  below: 
An  excursion  to  th  -  summit  is  not  very  diflicult,  and  affords  fine  viewf. 
The  Cattskill,  Watchusett,  Moiiaduoc,  and  Mount  Holyoke  are  visible. 


« 


burooyne'b  noAt). 


207 


n  each 
That 
rho  are 
)n^  the 
rrcnder 
of  Ho- 
•  prings. 
hrougli 

ludsonr 
Gran- 
ge, 16;: 
3;  Al- 

Uiidson<t 
Here  a 
Millery 

jPassinjr 

3;  Wa- 

Wood 
anal,  to 

strong 
history 
3  Revo- 
epcated 
^hicli  it 


nost  every 
and  2,800 

lame  from 
op,  whcro 

prucc,  yel- 
here  to  be 
eys  below; 
ne  viewt. 
visible. 


was  o])striictc(l,  it  bore  the  troops  sent  against 
Canachi,  Alc,  which  often  passed  hy  iliig  route, 
from  the  days  of  (^nccu  Anne.  The  srenery  is 
agreeable,  though  rough  ;  and  there  is  little  culti- 
vation oll'the  road. 

Half  a  mile  north  of  the  village  of  Fort  Anne, 
Wood  Creek  makes  an  elhow  to  a  ledge  of  rocks, 
«o  near  that  there  is  but  little  space  for  the  road 
between.  Jlere  Col.  Sterry  was  overtaken,  in  the 
retreat  from  Ticonderoga,  in  1777,  by  liurgoyne's 
troops,  and  an  engagement  took  place.  A  little 
south,  on  th(^  brow  of  the  hill,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  stage  house,  stood  Fort  Anne,  in  the 
Revolution. 

The  old  fort  (  f  the  same  naine,  built  many 
years  previously,  and  known  in  the  French  wars, 
was  about  half  a  mile  south  of  the  village,  on  a 
gentle  eminence  a  little  cast  of  the  road,  where 
some  remains  of  the  old  intrenchments  are  still 
to  be  seen. 

The  remains  of  Burgoyne^s  Road  begin  about 
two  miles  south  of  Fort  Anne,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill, 
and  are  traced  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  near 
the  present  road  to  a  wood.  It  was  formed  of 
logs,  and  found  necessary,  to  render  the  country 
passable  with  his  cannons  and  baggage  wagons. 
The  labor  necessary  for  its  formation,  superadded 
to  that  of  clearing  Wood  Creek  of  the  obstruc- 
tions which  Gen.  Schuyler  had  thrown  into  it 
after  the  retreat  of  the  Americans,  was  one  great 
cause  of  the  delay  of  the  British  army,  on  this 
part  of  the  road. 

French  Mountain  opens  to  view  a  little  beyond 


in  the  N,  W.  with 


of  high  grounds  in 


•  i'r'lr 


.''  ^' 


y   U' 


succession 
the  direction  of  South  Bay,  Lake  George,  A.c, 


208 


ROUTE    ^RO>t    CA?iADA* 


il  s 


About  half  a  mile  above  Fort  Edward,   stands 
an  old  tree,  which   marks    the    place    where  was 
perpetrated  the   Murdek  of    Miss   M*Creaj   of* 
Fort  Edward.     In  the  Revolutionary  war,  a  young 
man  named  Jones,   to   whom   she  was  betrothed, 
was  invested  with  a  captain's  command  in  Gen, 
Burgoyne's  army.     After  the  retreat  of  the  Amer- 
icans from  the  lake,  he  sent  a  party  of  Indians  to 
Fort   Edward  to  bring  his  intended  bride  to  him. 
She  was  very  unwilling  to  proceed  with  her  savage 
conductors  on  the  road  towards  Fort  /  nne ;  and 
had  gone  only  half  a  mile  when  the  Indians  stop- 
ped to  drink  at  a  spring  which  still  flows  by  the 
way  side.     While  here  they  were  met  by  another 
party   of  Indians    despatched   to  hasten  them  on. 
Those  who  came  last  attempted  to  take  her  under 
their  charge :  but  the    others,    being   determined 
not  to  give  her  up  alive,  bound  her   to  a  tree  and 
shot  her  dead  with  their  muskets.     Locks  of  her 
hair  were  borne  to  her  lover  to  prove  that  the  In- 
dians had  performed   what  they  considered  their 
dtity  to  their  employer. 

This  story  rang  through  the  country;  and  it 
was  reported  that  Gen.  Buigoyne  encouraged,  or, 
at  least,  permitted  the  murder.  In  indignant  terms 
he  denied  the  charge;  and  there  appears  no  pro- 
bability that  he  had  the  least  knowledge  of  it. 
He,  however,  was  justly  chargeable  with  a  great 
offence  against  humanity,  in  bringing  tribes  of 
savages  in  his  train,  whose  barbarity  he  could  nev- 
er be  sure  of  restraining. 

Fort  Edward.  This  village  is  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  a  fort  raised  during  the  war  of  1755,  for 
the  defence  of  this  point  of  the  river.    It  was  first 


stands 
re  was 
EAj    of* 
young 
rothed, 
n  Gen. 
Amer- 
lians  to 
to  him* 
r savage 
rie;  and 
ns  stop- 
s  by  the 
another 
hem  on. 
fr  under 
ermined 
tree  and 
of  her 
t  the  In- 
ed  their 

;  and  it 
iged,  or, 
int  terms 
no  pro- 
[e  of  it. 
a  great 
Iribes  of 
iuld  nev- 

'ighbor- 

755,  for 

as  first 


} 


miller's  falls. 


209 


called  Fort  Lyman,  after  General  Lyman,  of  whom 
We  have  already  had  occasion  to  make  honorable 
mention  at  Lake  George.  This  spot  was  formerly 
called  the  First  Carrying  Place,  being  the  point 
where,  in  the  expeditions  against  Canada,  the 
troops,  stores,  &c.,  were  landed  and  taken  to  Wood 
Creek,  a  distance  of  12  miles,  where  they  were 
again  embarked. 

Baker's  Falls,  at  Sandy  Hill,  are  worthy  of 
particular  attention,  and  are  seen  to  great  advan- 
tage from  some  parts  of  the  bank.  The  whole 
descent  of  the  river  at  this  place  is  about  75  feet. 

Fort  Miller.  The  village  still  retains  the 
name  o.  a  fort  erected  on  the  west  side  of  the  ri- 
ver, in  former  times.  It  was  a  work  of  insignifi- 
cant size,  situated  on  the  bank,  and  near 

Miller's  Falls.  The  descent  of  the  river  here 
is  rapid,  and  over  a  broken  channel.  The  falls 
were  formerly  considered  impassable  with  safety, 
until  Gen.  Putnam  performed  the  descent,  while 
stationed  at  Fort  Miller,  in  the  French  war. 

The  Great  Dam.  Above  Fort  Edward,  a  large 
and  expensive  dam,  900  feet  long,  has  been  built 
across  the  river,  and  a  canal  cut  along  the  bank 
jto  open  a  passage  for  boats. 


■n,t 


n^l 


m 


H 


r 


210 


NEW-YORK   TO    NEW-ENGLAND. 


^ 


TOUR  OF  NEW-ENGLAND. 

To  Travellers  going  Eastward  from  New-  York* 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  who  is  travel- 
ling eastward  to  s&e  the  country,  to  determine  on 
some  plan  for  his  journey  before  setting  out.  A 
stage  coach*  goes  every  morning  to  Connecticut, 
and  onward  ;  but  this  is  not  the  most  agreeable 
route.  Steamboats  go  from  New-York  to  the  fol- 
lowing places  on  the  northern  shore  of  Long  Island 

*  The  coach  setts  off  for  Nevy-Haven  every  morning  at  8  o'clock,  from 
the  stage  office,  in  Courtlandt-strect,  passing  through  Harioem  on  Manhat- 
tan Island,  West  Chester,  East  Chester,  New-Rochelle,  Mamaronec,  and 
Rye,  in  the  state  of  New-Vork;  and  Greenwich,  Stamford,  Diu-ien, 
Norwalk,  Fairfield,  Bridgeport,  Stratford,  Milford,  and  Orange,  in  Con- 
necticut. 

In  Harlaem,  the  road  passes  near  the  East  river,  and  gives  a  view  of 
Hell  Gate. 

Beyond  Morrissania,  the  estate  and  mansion  of  the  late  Hon-  Governor 
Morris  is  seen  on  the  right:  one  of  the  finest  for  tastefulness  and  extent 
in  this  part  of  the  country.     (See  ftattle  of  White  Platns.  page  18.) 

In  the  town  of  Horsnneck,  33  miles  from  New-York, is  a  steep  hill  de- 
scending towards  the  north,  down  which  Gen  Putnam  once  effected  his 
escape  from  several  British  officers  and  soldiers  during  the  revolutionary 
war,  when  returning  from  a  scout.  He  drove  his  horse  hastily  down  the 
rocky  hill  side,  a  little  east  of  the  road,  and  near  the  fence,  and  saved  so 
much  distance  as  to  elude  his  pursuers. 

In  the  town  of  Fairfield,  53  miles  from  New-York,  a  mile  or  two  before 
reaching  the  village,  is  a  low,  level  piece  of  ground,  on  the  right  hand 
side  of  the  road,  which  was  formerly  an  almost  impenetrable  swamp,  and, 
at  an  early  period  of  our  history,  was  the  scene  of  a  bloody  slaughter.  It 
was  hither  that  the  remains  of  a  powerful  and  terrible  nation  of  Indians, 
called  Pequods,  having  fled  from  their  country  about  New-London  and 
Groton,  after  the  destruciion  of  their  fort  at  Mystic  by  Capt.  Mason,  in 
163C,  were  either  killed  or  taken  captive.  This  was  their  last  and  total 
defeat,  and  extinguished  their  name  as  a  nation.  Much  of  the  ground  has 
been  cleared  In  modern  times ;  and  some  relics  have  been  found  to  con-> 
firm  tlie  traditions  of  the  neighborhood 

i)n  the  east  sidp  of  Housatonnuc,  or  Stratford  river,  a  mile  or  more 
Above  the  bridge,  was  oncf  n  fort,  built  by  the  Indians  of  the  place,  to  se- 
cure themselves  against  the  Mohawks,  who  had  subjugated  most  of  tho 
country  on  the  western  side  of  the  Connecticut  river,  before  the  arrival  of 
(he  English. 


EAST    RIVER^ 


211 


-  York. 

travel- 
line  on 
ut.  A 
scticut, 
peeable 
the  fol- 
Island 


lock,  from 
•a  Manhat- 
ronec,  and 
1,  Darien, 
e,  in  Con- 

aview  of 

.  Governor 
md  extent 

18.) 
ep  hill  de- 

ected  his 
olutionary 

down  the 

saved  so 

wo  before 
ght  hand 
k^arap,  and, 
ghter.  It 
)f  Indians, 
)ndon  and 
Mason,  in 
and  total 
ground  has 
nd  to  con-i 

e  01  more 
ace,  to  se- 
tost  of  tho 
arrival  of 


Sound  :  Norwalk,  Stamford,  Stratford,  New- Ha- 
ven, Connecticut  river,  (and  up  that  to  Hartford,) 
New-London  (and  Norwich,)  Newport  (and  Pro- 
vidence.) 

East  River.  Leaving  New-York,  in  any  of 
the  East  river  steamboats,  the  traveller  has  Brook- 
lyn on  the  right,  (now  with  a  population  of  about 
16,000,  and  strictly  a  suburb  of  the  capital.) 

The  Navy  Yard,  just  beyond. 

The  Marine  Railway  is  above,  on  the  west  side. 

The  old  Penitentiary  and  Fever  Hospital  are 
just  above,  on  the  shore. 

BlackwelVs  Island,  The  Penitentiary  consists 
of  two  large  edifices  of  similar  size.  The  southern, 
for  males,  is  about  1000  feet  from  the  south  end  of 
the  island,  and  about  20  feet  above  high  water  mark, 
200  feet  in  length  by  50  in  breadth,  with  240  cells, 
each  3J  feet  by  7,  and  separated  by  a  partition  2^ 
feet  thick.  Opposite  each  cell  there  is  an  aper- 
ture in  the  outer  wall,  for  fresh  air.  The  interior 
is  on  the  plan  of  the  State  Prison  at  Singsing,  ex- 
cept that  the  gallery  around  the  cells  is  of  iron  in- 
stead of  wood,  the  ascent  to  which  is  by  a  geome- 
trical staircase.  The  doors  to  the  cells  are  all  of 
iron — indeed,  the  only  wood  is  in  the  roof,  which 
may  even  be  burned  off  without  danger  to  the  rest 
of  the  building.  The  stone  is  the  common  gneiss, 
and  was  all  quarried  on  the  island  and  hewed  by 
the  convicts.  The  lime  was  burned  on  the  island. 
Four  centinels  are  placed  on  elevated  platforms 
in  different  parts  of  the  island,  who  are  allowed  no 
intercourse  either  by  word  or  sign  with  the  pri- 
soners. The  prisoners  are  marched  rank  and  file 
to  their  meals.    No  spirituous  liquor  is  allowed  to 


:M« 


I'  i 


-i 


'■-\t 


'5 


m 


212 


NEW-MAVEN. 


be  brought  upon  the  island.  Four  excellent  springs 
of  water  afford  them  drink. 

The  island  is  1^  miles  in  length,  and  about  600 
feet  in  width,  and  will  yield  abundance  of  vegeta- 
bles. It  is  the  design  of  the  Corporation  to  make 
it  the  seat  of  punishment  in  all  its  forms. 

At  Hell  Gate,  numerous  objects  present  them- 
selves on  entering  the  bay.  On  the  distant  high 
ground,  west,  is  seen  the  Lunatic  Asylum  ;  a  white 
blockhouse  on  the  hill  on  the  east  side;  below  it, 
an  old  fort  by  the  water ;  and  a  number  of  hand- 
some country  houses  along  the  green  shore  on  the 
left.  The  first  of  these  is  Commodore  Chauncey's, 
next,  Mr.  Schermerhorn's,  then  Messrs.  Prime's, 
Astor's,  &c.  The  surface  of  the  river  is  broken 
by  several  rocks,  and  by  the  agitation  of  the  wa- 
ter, particularly  at  the  whirl  called  the  Great  Pot, 
a  little  north  of  the  fort,  and  the  rapid  current  on 
the  opposite  shore,  known  by  the  name  of  the 
Hog's  Back.  In  coming  from  the  north,  almost 
the  first  view  of  New-York  is  here  presented,  be- 
tween the  western  shore  and  Blackwell's  Island, 
with  a  shot  tower  on  the  right. 

New-Haven. 

Tontine  Hotel,  Franklin  Hotel.  Several  pri- 
vate boarding  houses.  This  is  decidedly  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  towns  in  the  United  States.  The 
soil  is  not  very  good,  and  the  situation  is  low;  the 
city  is  laid  out  in  squares,  with  straight  and  broad 
streets,  and  the  elevated  ground  in  the  neighbor- 
hood renders  the  approach  very  fine  from  almost 
every  direction.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  a  spa- 
cious bay,  with  a  lighthouse  on  the  eastern  point, 
a  small  fort  on  the  shore,  another  on  Prospect 


t  springs 

)out  600 

vegeta- 

to  make 

it  th em- 
ant  high 
;  a  white 
below  it, 
of  hand- 
re  on  the 
iiincey's. 
Prime's, 
3  broken 
the  wa- 
reat  Pot, 
^rrent  on 
e  of  the 
,  almost 
nted,  be- 
Island, 


era]  pri- 
■f  one  of 
es.  The 
ow;  the 
d  broad 
ighbor- 
almost 
a  spa- 
n  point, 
rospect 


NE\r-HAVEN. 


213 


Hill,  and  two  bluffs,  called  East  and  West  Rocks, 
2  or  3  miles  behind  the  town.  A  more  distant 
peak  is  seen  between  them,  which  is  Mount  Car- 
mel.  The  long  wharf  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
in  length.  The  steamboats  stop  at  the  bridge, 
where  carriages  will  be  found  in  waiting  to  take 
travellers  to  the  centre  of  the  town,  which  is  more 
than  a  mile  distant. 

Near  the  bridge,  is  the  large  steamboat  hotel, 
and  on  the  right,  Mr.  J.  Brewster's  large  coach  man- 
ufactory. The  building  has  a  tasteful  front,  and 
contains  also  blacksmith's  shops,  a  chapel,  &c.  A 
little  beyond  is  the  square  of  the  New  Township, 
with  one  or  two  female  boarding  schools. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  regular  and  pleasant, 
forming  squares,  one  of  which  is  a  green  sur- 
rounded by  rows  of  elms,  with  three  churches  and 
the  new  State  House  in  the  middle,  and  the  Col- 
lege buildings  occupying  the  western  side,  pre- 
senting a  scene  probably  not  equalled  by  any  town 
of  this  size  in  the  United  States.  The  abundance 
of  fine  trees,  the  neatness  and  beauty  of  the  dwell- 
ings, the  good  society  of  the  place,  and  the  distin- 
guished position  it  holds  as  a  seat  of  learning,  ren- 
der New-Haven  the  resort  of  a  great  number  of 
strangers  during  the  travelling  season,  and  the 
temporary  residence  of  not  a  few. 

Connecticut  has  a  School  Fund  of  $1,902,057, 
the  largest  in  the  Union,  but  its  influence  is  thought 
to  be  unfavorable  to  education,  by  rendering  indi- 
vidual contributions  unnecessary.  The  income  is 
all  paid  for  instruction.  It  yielded  in  1832  above 
$•81,939,  that  is,  95  cts.  for  each  child  between  4 
and  16,  or  28  cts.  for  each  inhabitant.    The  taxes 

18 


:.f         1 


'!l;^^  . 


I 


'<    •  il 


214 


YALE    COLLEGE. 


W  I 


for  the  support  of  the  government  are  only  6  cts. 
3  mills  each.  There  arc  nine  academies,  besides 
several  unincorporated. 

There  is  a  Hopkins's  Gramma  School  in  the 
town,  and  ten  Boarding  Schoolb  ior  young  la- 
dies, with  instructcrs  in  every  branch  of  useful  and 
ornamental  education.  A  flourishing  Lancaste- 
rian  School  in  this  place  contains  about  200  boys. 

The  Connecticut  General  Hospital  is  a  fine 
stuccoed  building,  half  a  mile  south  of  the  city, 
and  contains  well  aired  wards,  a  lecture  room 
above,  &c.  &c, 

Yale  College,  This  institution  is  the  principal 
object  which  will  attract  the  attention  of  the  stran- 
ger. It  was  founded  in  1701,  and  first  located  at 
Killingworth,  then  removed  to  Saybrook,  and  af- 
ter a  [e\v  years  permanently  fixed  in  this  town. 
The  first  building  was  of  wood,  and  stood  near  the 
corner  of  College  and  Chapel-streets.  The  ex- 
pense of  tuition,  room,  &-c.  for  a  year,  is  about 
$50 — of  board  in  Commons,  about  ^75.  There 
are  now  four  buildings  for  students,  each  contain- 
ing 32  rooms  ;  a  Chapel,  with  a  Philosophical 
chamber  and  apparatus,  an  Observatory  and  a  Ly- 
ceum, with  recitation  rooms  and  the  library.  In 
the  rear  are  the  Picture  Gallery,  (containing  some 
of  the  valuable  paintings  of  Col.  Trumbull,  and 
others,  and  the  Commons  Hall,  in  a  small  build- 
ing with  the  splendid  Mineralogical  Cabinet  above, 
which  is  the  finest  collection  of  the  kind  in  the 
United  States,  lately  purchased  from  Col.  Gibbs, 
of  New-York.  In  another  building  is  the  Chemi- 
cal Laboratory,  where  Professor  Silliman  delivers 
his  lectures.     The  institution  contained,  in  1833, 


M 


\^<^ 


THE    FARMINGTOX    CANAL. 


215 


y  6  cts. 
besides 

in  the 
Ling  la- 
eful  and 
incaste' 
)0  boys. 
i  a  fine 
he  city, 
re  room 

►rincipal 
le  stran- 
cated  at 
,  and  af- 
is  town, 
near  the 
rhe  ex- 
s  about 
There 
contain- 
so  phical 
id  a  Ly- 
iry.     In 
ig  some 
ull,  and 
build- 
t  above, 
I  in  the 
Gibbs, 
Chemi- 
delivers 
In  1833, 


1 


496  students,  distributed  as  follows : — Theologi- 
cal Students,  49;  Law  Students,  '^1 ;  Medical  Stu- 
dents, 61;  Resident  Graduates,  6;  Seniors,  71; 
Juniors,  87;  Sophomores,  95;  Freshmen,  106. 

An  Observatory,  on  one  of  the  steeples,  is  after 
the  model  of  the  Tower  of  the  Winds  at  Athens. 

Next  north  of  the  College  is  the  house  of  Presi- 
dent  Day,  and  the  professors  have  pleasant  resi- 
dences in  the  town. 

The  Medical  Institution  is  at  the  north  end  of 
College-street.  Like  many  other  buildings  in  the 
place,  it  is  of  rough  stone,  covered  with  plaster. 
The  canal  passe?  just  in  the  rear. 

The  New  Burying  Ground  is  situated  opposite 
the  Medical  Institution,  and  occupies  a  large  ex- 
tent of  land,  partly  planted  with  poplars,  and  con- 
taining a  great  number  of  beautiful  ornaments,  of 
different  designs.  It  is  considered  the  most  beau- 
tiful cemetry  in  this  countiy. 

The  Old  Burying  Ground  was  in  the  middle  of 
the  green,  in  the  rear  of  the  Centre  Church,  and 
there  are  to  be  seen  two  ancient  stone  monuments, 
of  a  small  size,  which  are  supposed  to  mark  the 
graves  of  two  of  the  regicide  judges,  Whally  and 
Dixwell,  although  there  is  much  doubt  on  the  sub- 
ject.    (See  Stiles's  Judges.) 

A  General  Hospital  Society  for  the  state  of  Con- 
necticut was  founded  in  1828;  and  the  building  is 
of  stuccoed  stone,  about  a  mile  south  of  the  city. 

The  New-Haven  and  Farmington  Canal, 
extends  to  the  Massachusetts  line  in  Simsbury, 
where  it  is  met  by  the  Hampshire  and  Hampden 
Canal,  which  strikes  Connecticut  River  at  North 
^mpton. 


ill 


• 


T-fl 


\l    * 


216 


ROUTE    IN    CONNECTICUT. 


The  basin,  near  ihe  market,  is  large  and  commo- 
dious ;  and  the  canal,  passing  through  a  part  of  the 
city,  and  bending  round  along  the  outskirts,  on 
the  north  side,  intersects  several  streets,  by  which 
it  is  crossed  on  handsome  bridges. 

The  first  part  of  the  canal  passes  through  an 
easy  and  natural  channel,  where  is  little  variation 
in  the  surface  ;  and  introduces  us  to  the  beautiful 
and  fertile  meadows  at  Farmington.  The  upper 
part,  and  the  Hampshire  and  Hampden  canal,  re- 
quired much  lockage. 

There  are  pleasant  rides  in  various  directions 
from  New-Haven,  the  roads  being  numerous,  and 
the  face  of  the  country  favorable.  The  two 
mountains  command  extensive  views,  and  though 
the  access  is  rather  fatiguing,  the  excursion  is 
recommended  to  those  who  are  fond  of  such  en- 
terprises. 

The  Judge's  Cave  is  on  the  summit  of  West 
Rock,  about  a  mile  north  of  the  bluff:  and  the 
way  to  it  leads  near  Beaver  Pond,  and  Pine  Rock, 
then  between  Pine  and  West  Rocks.  You  here 
turn  off  the  road  to  the  left,  by  a  path  across  a 
brook;  and  a  guide  may  usually  be  obtained  at  a 
jsmall  house  just  beyond,  who  can  show  a  horse 
path  to  the  summit. 

The  cave  is  formed  by  the  crevices  between 
seven  large  rocks,  apparently  thrown  together  by 
some  convulsion.  It  is  small  and  entirely  above 
ground,  with  a  rude  rock,  like  a  column  on  each 
hand.     That  on  the  right  bears  this  inscription, — 

**  Opposition  to  tyrants  is  obedience  to  God,*' 

to  remind  the  visiter  that  the  place  once  afforded 


Road  to  middlktown. 


217 


ommo- 

t  of  the 

rts,  on 

which 

ugh  an 
iriation 
eautiful 
I  upper 
inal,  re- 

reclions 
lus,  and 
he  two 
though 
•sion  is 
uch  en- 

f  West 
and  the 
Rock, 
)u  here 
icross  a 
led  at  a 
a  horse 

)etween 
ther  by 
f  above 
m  each 
tion, — 

^od," 

ifforded 


fiheher  to  GofTc  and  Whally,  two  of  the  judges  of 


I 


kintr  Charles  the  First,  wl 


il< 


ig  ^^iiiirifs  inc  I'lrsi,  wlio  escaped  lo  tlie  colo- 
nies and  secreted  thcnisclvcy  for  some  lime  in  this 
solitary  place.  They  were  supplied  with  food  by 
a  family  which  resided  near  the  foot  of  ihe  moun- 
tain, and  a  little  boy  was  desj)alchcd  for  them 
every  day,  wno  left  a  basket  of  provisions  on  a 
rock,  without  knowing  what  cause  he  was  subser- 
ving. The  [)lace  commands  an  extensive  view 
upon  the  country  below,  with  a  large  tract  of  Long 
Island,  and  the  Sound. 

The  Manufactory  of  Muskets  is  two  miles  north 
of  New-Haven,  on  the  road  to  Hartford,  by  Meri- 
den,  and  at  the  foot  of  East  liock.  It  was  estab- 
lished by  Mr.  Whitney,  the  well-known  inventor 
of  the  Cotton  Gin.  The  machinery  is  carried 
by  the  water  of  a  small  river,  and  the  houses  of 
the  overseers  and  workmen  make  a  pretty  appear- 
ance on  the  shore.  Muskets  are  made  here  in  all 
their  parts,  many  of  them  for  the  arsenals  of  the 
United  States.  It  is  designed  to  make  the  arms 
so  much  alike,  that  the  parts  may  be  applied  in- 
differently to  all  that  proceed  from  the  same  man- 
ufactory. It  is  not  found  possible  however,  to 
accomplish  this  object  to  the  full  extent  desired. 

Road  from  New-Haven  to  Middletown — 
Northford  10  miles,  Durham  8,  Middletown  6. 

Beyond  New-Haven  in  Long  Island  Sound,  lies 
a  cluster  of  islands,  called  the  Thi^n.bles,  famous 
in  the  traditions  of  the  neighboring  Connecticut 
coast,  as  the  ancient  resort  of  Capt.  Kidd,  a  nota- 
ble pirate,  whose  treasures  of  solid  gold,  it  is  still 
believed  by  some,  are  concealed  somewhere  here- 
abouts.  Within  this  labyrinth  of  islands  is  a  little 

18* 


H  I 


IP 


m 


I 


i 


I;  ' 

i  ■ ;  I  IN 


-  i    t 

,1 
t 


,i'     i- 


'<Uil 


318 


SAYBROOK. 


I? 

I? 


inlet,  capaple  of  containing  only  one  vessel,  which 
bears  the  name  of  Kidd's  Harbour.  There  are 
also  his  island,  his  chair,  and  his  '  punch  bowl.' 
There  are  several  houses  along  the  shore,  within 
a  few  miles  of  this  place,  which  are  resorted  to 
during  the  warm  season  by  a  considerable  number 
of  visiters  from  the  interior,  for  the  sake  of  bathing 
in  the  salt  water,  and  eating  lobsters,  black  fish, 
and  oysters.  In  September  and  October,  ducks 
may  be  found  in  great  quantities  near  the  shore, 
and  black  fish  are  caught  in  considerabls  numbers; 
but  the  best  fishing  is  further  east,  at  New-Lon- 
don, Newport,  &.c. 

[As  it  is  necessary,  in  a  work  like  this,  we  have 
undertaken  to  pursue  some  definite  course,  and  to 
mention  places  and  objects  in  the  order  in  which 
they  wiJl  probably  occur  to  most  travellers  we 
shall  here  leave  Long  Island  Sound  to  proceed  up 
Connecticut  River,  and  only  refer  ^he  reader  to 
the  Index  for  an  account  of  the  coast  beyond,  and 
the  following  subjects  and  places  :  New-London, 
the  Thames,  Norwich,  the  Mohicans,  the  Pequods, 
Saccacus's  Fort,  Mystic  Fort,  the  Narragansett 
shore,  Newport,  Providence,  &c.] 

Saybrook.  At  this  place  was  the  first  settle- 
ment made  by  Europeans  on  Connecticut  River, 
at  the  earnest  solicitation  of  the  rightful  proprie- 
tors of  the  country  on  its  banks,  who  had  been 
despoiled  of  their  possessions  by  their  formidable 
enemies,  the  Pequods.  The  River  Indians  twice 
made  application  to  the  English  at  Fiymouth  and 
at  Boston,  to  obtain  settlers  upon  their  native  soil, 
offering  to  give  them  land  enough,  and  to  pay  200 
beaver  skins  annually  for  the  benefit  of  their  so- 


t 


i 


SAYBROOK. 


219 


}1,  which 
lere  are 
hi  bowl.' 
3,  within 
orted  to 
number 
fbathing 
ack  fish, 
^r,  ducks 
le  shore, 
lumbers; 
ew-Lon- 

we  have 
le,  and  to 
in  which 
sllers,  we 
oceed  up 
eader  to 
ond,  and 
London, 
Pequods, 
ragansett 

st  settle- 
it  River, 

proprie- 
^,ad  been 
>rmidable 
ins  twice 
outh  and 
itive  soil, 
)  pay  200 

their  sq- 


\ 


ciety.  But  the  undertaking  was  considered  too 
hazardous,  and  it  was  not  until  the  year  1635,  when 
the  Dutch  at  New-York  showed  a  determination 
to  seize  upon  the  country,  that  a  small  detachment 
of  men  was  sent  from  Boston  by  water  to  prepare 
for  opening  a  trade  with  the  Indians,  and  to  build 
a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Immediately 
after  their  landing,  a  Dutch  vessel  entered,  and 
proceeding  up  to  Hartford,  established  themselves 
in  a  fort  they  called  Good  Hope,  on  a  spot  they 
obtained  from  Pequod  usurpers. 

The  settlement  of  Saybrook  was  begun  under 
a  grant  made  to  Lord  Say  and  Seal,  Lord  Brook, 
and  others,  by  George  Fenwick,  Esq.  who  fled  to 
this  country  with  his  family.  The  old  fort  stood 
near  the  present  fort  hill,  upon  an  eminence  which 
has  since  been  destroyed  by  the  waves;  and  the 
ground  immediately  behind  it  was  afterward  occu- 
pied by  the  fields  and  habitations  of  the  colonists. 
It  was  expected  from  the  first,  that  the  situation 
would  render  the  place  a  great  city;  and  after  the 
fear  of  the  Indians  had  subsided,  the  whole  penin- 
sula, which  bears  the  name  of  Saybrook  Point, 
was  laid  out  with  the  greatest  regularity  into  fields 
of  an  equal  size,  except  such  parts  as  were  reser- 
ved for  the  erection  of  public  buildings.  Yale 
College  was  placed  here  for  a  time,  and  a  great 
number  of  emigrants  were  once  collected  in  Eng- 
land, and  prepared  for  a  voyage  to  this  place. 
Some  persons  of  high  rank  and  importance  were 
among  them,  and  Oliver  Cromwell  had  determined 
to  embark  in  the  enterprise,  when  some  unfore- 
seen occurrence  prevented  him. 

The  want  of  a  harbor,  and  the  sand  bar  at  the 


f  I 


.-.il 


220 


ROUTE    IN    CONNECTICUT. 


h-i    I 


:<    .. 


mouth  of  the  river,  prevented  the  expectations  of 
the  settlers  of  Saybrook  from  being  realized  ;  and 
no  remains  of  their  works  can  now  be  discovered, 
except  in  the  rectangular  forms  of  the  fields,  and 
the  wells  and  cellars  of  some  of  their  dwellings, 
just  beyond  the  burying  ground,  the  foundation 
stones  of  which  have  since  been  employed  in 
building  the  neighboring  fences.  One  of  the  lar- 
gest excavations  is  said  to  have  been  the  cellar  of 
the  old  college  building.  The  soldiers  were  fre- 
quently attacked  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
fort  by  the  Pequods,  but  they  afterward  ran  a  pa- 
lisade across  the  isthmus  which  leads  from  the 
mainJpnd. 

CONNECTICUT  RIVER.  The  shores  pre- 
sent a  continued  succession  of  hilly  and  pictur- 
esque country,  with  few  interruptions  of  level 
land,  from  a  little  above  Saybrook  as  far  as  Mid- 
dletown.  The  roughness  and  rocky  nature  of  the 
soil  prevent  the  cultivation  of  many  mountainous 
tracts:  yet  there  are  farms  enough  to  give  a  con- 
siderable degree  of  softness  to  the  scenery.  The 
variety  of  rocky  and  wooded  banks,  mingling  with 
little  patches  of  cultivated  ground,  and  the  habita- 
tions scattered  along  the  river,  is  very  agreeable, 
and  often  affords  scenes  highly  picturesque  and 
delightful. 

Essex,  7  miles  from  Saybrook.  This  place  for- 
merly called  Pettipaug,  is  a  small  village,  on  the 
ascent  and  summit  of  a  handsome  elevation.  Just 
above  it  is  an  island  of  some  extent,  which  divides 
the  river  and  gives  it  an  unusual  breadth.  During 
the  late  war  with  Great  Britain,  this  place  was 
taken  by  the  enemy,   who   came  up  the  river  in 


,.';.— ■^.: 


tions  of 
id ;  and 
[)vered, 
Is,  and 
ellings, 
ndation 
lyed  ir.' 
the  lar- 
cllar  of 
ere  fre- 
of  the 
in  a  pa- 
)m    the 

es  pre- 
pictur- 

)f  level 

^s  Mid- 
ol'  the 

tainous 
a  con- 
The 
g  with 
labita- 

eeablo, 
e   and 

ce  for- 
on  the 
Just 
livides 
)iiring 
e  was 
ver  in 


i 


iU 


'  (I 


i 
'*  1 


1 

m 

1 

m 

1 

i 

\ 


HADDAM. 


221 


\ 


launches,  and  taking  the  inhabitants  by  surprise, 
occupied  the  town  for  a  few  hours. 

Some  distance  above  this  place  the  channel 
lies  so  near  the  eastern  shore,  that  the  steamboat 
passes  almost  under  the  trees  by  which  it  is  sha- 
ded. 

Joshua^s  Rock  is  on  the  same  side  of  the  river, 
a  little  below  Brockway's  Ferry.  It  is  said  to 
have  derived  its  name  from  the  son  of  Uncas, 
Sachem  of  the  Mohicans  (see  Norwich,)  who,  ac- 
cording to  a  tradition  current  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, being  once  closely  pursued  by  enemies, 
threw  hin\self  from  the  top  of  the  rock,  and  per- 
ished in  the  river. 

Warner's  Ferry,  13  miles  from  Saybrook, 

East  Haddam  on  the  east.  The  landing  place 
here  is  rocky,  mountainous,  and  wild,  and  a  good 
specimen  of  a  large  portion  of  the  town  to  which 
it  belongs.  Gen.  Champion  has  a  fine  house  built 
among  the  rocks  above,  which  adds  much  to  the 
appearance  of  the  plnce.  This  region  is  famous 
for  a  kind  of  earthquakes  and  subterranean  sounds, 
which  were  formerly  common  for  a  short  distance 
round.  They  gave  occasion  to  many  supersti- 
tious reports,  but  have  ceased  within  a  few  years. 
They  were  called  Moodus  Noises,  after  the  Indian 
name  of  the  place.  Large  beryls  are  found  in 
the  neighborhood,  and  many  other  minerals  inter- 
esting to  the  scientific  traveller. 

Haddam,  on  the  west,  is  built  on  an  eminence 
50  or  60  feet  high,  which  appears  like  the  remains 
of  an  old  bank  of  the  river,  descending  a  little 
meadow  which  is  covered  with  orchards,  grazing 
ground,  &c.  while  a  range  of  commanding  hills 
rise  beyond. 


I      f' 


!•: 


n^ 


■    ^       it. 


/ft. 


,.iv '] 


222 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


HiGGENUM,  on  the  west,  is  one  of  the  little 
landing  places  so  numerous  along  the  river's 
course,  2  miles  above  Haddam. 

Middle  Haddam,  2  miles  further,  on  the  east. 
This  is  a  pleasant  country  village,  stretching  along 
a  hill  covered  with  orchards  and  home  lots,  and 
backed  by  higher  and  wilder  eminences.  It  is 
about  6  miles  below  Middlctown. 

Looking  down  the  river  from  a  little  above  this 
place,  a  large  and  beautiful  hill  is  seen,  which  af- 
fords the  richest  scene  of  cultivation  on  this  part 
of  the  river,  being  entirely  covered  with  fields 
and  orchards.  A  large  wooded  eminence  is  a  lit- 
tle higher  up,  and  several  high  hills,  almost  wor- 
thy of  the  name  of  mountains,  are  visible  in  the 
north. 

The  Narrows.  Here  the  river  turns  abruptly 
to  the  west,  and  flows  between  two  lofty  hills, 
which  it  has  divided  at  some  long  past  period, 
before  which,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe,  the 
country  for  a  great  distance  above  was  covered  by 
a  lake.  A  mile  or  two  eastward  of  this  place, 
there  is  the  appearance  of  an  old  channel,  where 
the  water  probably  ran,  at  a  great  height  above  its 
present  level. 

A  Lead  Mine  is  a  short  distance  from  the  south- 
ern bank  of  the  river,  near  two  or  three  old  hou- 
ses. 

Fort  Hill  is  the  last  elevated  part  of  the  south- 
ern bank.  It  was  formerly  a  little  fortress  be- 
longing to  Souheag,  an  Indian  chief,  whose  do- 
minion extended  over  the  present  towns  of  Mid- 
dlctown, Chatham,  and  Wethersfield.  The  large 
buildings  on  the  hill  in  Middletown  belong  to  the 
Wesleyan  College. 


4 


fO] 

th( 


boi 
fro 


MIDDLETOWN. 


223 


e  little 

rivcr*s 

le  east. 
g  along 
►ts,  and 
,     It   is 

ove  this 
hich  af- 
his  part 
h  fields 
;  is  a  lit- 
ost  wor- 
e   in  the 

abruptly 
ty  hills, 
t  period, 
ieve,  the 
vered  by 
is  place, 
1,  where 
above  its 

he  south- 
old  hou- 

he  south- 
Iress  be- 
i^hose  do- 
of  Mid- 
rhe  large 
ng  to  the 


MIDDLETOWN  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  river,  where  the  water  is 
spread  out  to  a  considerable  breadth,  and  disap- 
pears so  suddenly  at  the  Narrows,  that  from  many 
points  of  view,  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  small 
lake,  with  high,  sloping,  and  cultivated  shores. 

The  Quarries  of  Freestone^  on  the  opposite 
shore,  have  furnished  a  valuable  building  material 
for  some  years,  and  have  been  worked  to  a  con- 
siderable extent. 

Manufactories.  Cotton,  Woollen,  and  Rifle 
Manufactories,  and  three  machine  shops,  are  near 
the  bridge  at  the  south  end  of  the  street.  Col. 
North's  Pistol  Manufactory  is  situated  two  or 
three  miles  west  of  the  town.  There  are  also 
Starr's  Rifle  Factory,  Johnson's  Sword  Factory, 
the  Pameacha  Woollen,  Spalding's  Tape,  and 
Pratt's  Comb  factories. 

There  are  various  pleasant  rides  in  this  neigh- 
borhood, particularly  to  two  picturesque  Water 
/'aZZ^  in  Middlefield.  In  the  direction  of  one  of 
them  is  Laurel  Grove,  where  the  road  is  shaded 
for  nearly  a  mile  with  those  shrubs,  which,  in 
the  season,  are  covered  with  flowers. 

The  Cobalt  Mine  is  about  five  miles  east,  in 
Chatham,  at  the  foot  of  Rattlesnake  Hill.  It  is 
not  worth  working,  at  the  usual  price  of  the  metal- 
Specimens  of  peach-bloom  of  cobalt  may  be  pick- 
ed up  among  the  rubbish.  Just  southerly  from 
it  is  a  very  pretty  water  fall,  about  thirty  feet 
high. 

A  number  of  German  families  live  in  the  neigh- 
borhood ;  the  descendants  of  miners,  who  came 
from  Europe  some  years  ago  to  work  the  mine. 


i 


i".   r 


ii  t  \ 


t! 


i 


cl' 


JJ24 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


Upper  Houses,  a  village  of  Middletown,  2 
miles  above. 

From  a  hill  1  mile  from  this  is  a  very  pleasamt 
view  towards  the  south,  presenting  the  river,  with 
the  meadow  and  hills,  as  well  as  Middletown  and 
the  fine  high  grounds  in  its  rear. 

Rocky  Hilly  5  miles,  a  parish  of  Wethersfield. 
About  half  a  mile  north  of  the  tavern,  if  you  travel 
by  land,  you  reach  the  brow  of  a  hill,  which  com- 
mands a  rich  prospect  of  many  miles  of  the  Con- 
necticut Valley  W  ( thersfield  lies  in  front,  and 
the  variegated  l>?ua  d  plains  around  belong  to 
numerous  townsL  ps  o?^  both  sides  of  the  river, 
enclosed  by  ranges  of  distant  highland,  which  di- 
rect the  course  of  its  channel.  On  the  left,  about 
15  miles  off,  is  the  ridge  of  Talcott  mountain; 
and  the  two  blue  peaks  in  the  north  are  Mount?^ 
Tom  and  Holyoke,  near  Northampton,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  fifty  miles. 

Wethersfieldy  3  miles  from  Hartford,  has  a  fine 
light  soil,  on  an  extensive  level,  peculiarly  favora- 
ble to  the  culture  of  onions,  which  are  exported  in 
great  quantities  to  various  parts  of  the  country, 
the  West  Indies,  &c. 

Wethersfield  was  one  of  the  three  earliest  set- 
tlements made  by  white  men  in  Connecticut:  or 
rather  it  may  strictly  claim  the  precedence  of  all, 
for  although  houses  were  first  built  here,  as  well 
as  at  Hartford  and  Windsor,  in  1635,  three  or 
four  men  came  to  this  place  the  year  previous, 
and  spent  the  winter.  Depredations  were  com- 
mitted on  their  settlements  for  the  first  few  years ; 
but  as  they  were  done  by  the  Pequods,  the  de- 
struction of  that  nation  at  Mystic  Foit,  by  Capt. 


be< 

na 

eel 

wh 

anc 

obi 

be 

are 

self. 

Th 

sylv 

cone 

The 

bed 


CONNECTtCUT    STATE    PRISON. 


225 


)wn, 


2 


ileasawt 
>r,  with 
wn  and 

Bvsfield. 
u  travel 
ch  com- 
,he  Con- 
)nt,   and 
elong  to 
e   river, 
i^hich  di- 
;ft,  about 
ountain ; 
5  Mounts 
t  the  dis- 

las  a  fine 

y  favora- 

ported  in 

country, 

[iest  set- 
Iticut:  or 
je  of  all, 
as  well 
[three  or 
)revious, 
ire  com- 
|w  years ; 
the  dc- 
Iby  Capt. 


Mason,  in  163G,  putnn  end  to  them  entirely,  and 
this  part  of  the  river  was  never  afterward  luadt  the 
theatre  of  war. 

The  (/onnecticut  State  Prison. — The  situ- 
ation of  ihis  institution  is  htaUhy,  retired,  and 
convenient  to  the  water  and  the  great  road.  It 
was  completed  in  1817;  and  is  vvorihy  of  the  at- 
tention of  those  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  condi- 
tion and  prospects  of  the  unhappy  inmates  of  such 
edifices.  What  liave  heretofore  been  regarded  as 
the  necessary  evils  of  prisons,  will  here  he  found 
greatly  reduced  ;  and,  in  many  respects,  even  with 
regard  to  the  prisoners,  converted  into  benefits. 

The  modern  improved  principles  of  prison  -ilis- 
cipline  have  nowhere  produced  so  sudden  ai.d  t 
beneficial  a  change  as  in  the  state  of  Conne.  ticiit. 
An  old  copper  mine  atGranby  was  for  many  years 
the  State  Prison,  and  was  conducted  on  th«  old 
and  vicious  system.  Here  the  Auburn  syi  °,m  has 
been  established,  with  some  few  deviations. 

The  men  are  brought  out  to  their  work  at  sig- 
nals given  by  the  bell.  They  lodge  in  solitary 
cells,  and  are  not  permitted  to  converse  together 
while  at  work.  They  take  their  food  in  their  cells, 
and  when  going  to  and  from  work  or  prayers,  are 
obliged  to  march  with  the  h)ck  step.  They  ae  to 
be  chiefly  employed  in  brick-making.  No  blows 
are  allowed  to  be  given  by  the  officers  except  in 
self-defence. 
The  smith's  fires  are  supplied  with  Lehigh  (Penn- 
sylvania) coal  for  fuel ;  and  part  of  the  heat  is 
conducted  away  in  pipes  to  waim  the  apartments. 
The  cells  are  furnished  with  comfortable  beds  and 
bed   clothes,    and  a  Bible  for  each.      They  are 

19 


I 


I . 


ii. 

;.<■ 


^^I! 


■■•  s 


;   f 


r,r|j 


■:'ft 


iii 


■  A 


it 


If    n 


226 


ROUTE    UP    COIVNECriCUT    RIVER, 


ranged  in  rows,  and  the  keepers  can  look  into 
them  through  grated  dcjors  ;  at  tlie  same  lime  the 
prisoners  are  not  able  to  converse  with  each  other. 
Neitlier  oflicers  nor  convicts  are  allowed  to  use 
ardent  spirits.  The  inmates  arc  kept  clean  and 
comfortably  clad  ;  and  while  shut  up  from  society, 
whose  laws  they  have  infringed,  they  are  not  de- 
based and  rendered  more  vicious  and  dangerous 
by  bad  example  or  evil  counsel ;  but  are  usefully 
and  healthfully  employed,  instructed,  invited  to 
return  to  virtue  and  respectability,  and  consigned 
for  a  large  portion  of  the  time  to  solitude  and  un- 
disturbed reflection. 

HAR'i  FORD.  — Inns.  The  City  Hptel,  (by  J. 
Morgan,)  and  the  United  States  Hotel,  (by  H. 
Morgan,)  are  two  of  the  best  houses  in  the  coun- 
try. This  is  the  semi-capital  of  the  slate,  and  a 
place  of  considerable  business,  as  well  as  one  of 
the  great  points  at  which  the  principal  roads  con- 
centrate. 

The  Charter  Oak. — In  the  lower  part  of  the 
town,  and  east  from  the  south  church,  is  the  an- 
cient and  respectable  seat  of  the  Wyllys  family, 
who  were  among  the  early  settlers  of  Hartford, 
and  have  made  a  conspicuous  figure  in  the  history 
of  the  state,  as  well  as  of  the  town,  by  supplying 
the  Secretary's  ollice  for  a  long  course  of  time. 
This  place  is  now  owned  by  Mr.  Bulkley;  and  has 
undergone  considerable  changes.  The  fine  old 
oak,  which  stands  on  the  street  in  front,  is  said  to 
huve  been  a  forest  tree  before  the  land  was  cleared, 
yet  it  appears  as  firm  arui  vigorous  as  ever.  In  a 
hoir  in  its  trunk  was  hidden  the  charter  of  the 
colony,   when   Sir  Edmund  Andross  sent  to  de- 


sei 
ex 

bc( 
of 

thi 


inir 

C5 


HARTFORD. 


227 


ok  into 
lime  the 
;h  other, 
i  to  use 
can  and 

society, 
3  not  de- 
an gerous 

usefully 
ivited  to 
;onsigned 
e  ancl  un- 

tel,  (by  J. 
il,  (by  H. 
the  coun- 
ate,  and  a 
as  one  of 
'oads  con- 

)art  of  the 

is  the  an- 

lys  family, 

"^Hartford, 

he  history 

supplying 
e  ot    time. 

y.  and  has 
e  fine  old 
_,  is  said  to 
/as  cleared, 
3ver.     In  a 

rter  of  the 

sent  to  de- 


mand it  in  1687  ;  and  tliere  it  remained  for  some 


yearsi. 


Tl 


lis    iiiterestlnir    document  is    s 


till 


pre- 


served in  the  udice  of  the  Secretary  of  the  state. 
The  Asyluiii  for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and 


D 


umb  is  about  a  nnle  west  of  the  town,  on  Tower 


Iliil.  It  was  the  earliest  institution  of  the  kind  in 
America.  Mr.  Wiild  is  principal,  and  Mr.  Le 
Clerc,  a  favorite  pupil  of  the  Abbe  Sicard  of  Paris, 
occupies  the  next  station.  lie  is  a  man  of  supe- 
rior talents,  altliouirh  deaf  and  dumb. 

The  principal  buil(lin<r  is  larirc,  ornamented 
with  pilasters,  and  surrounded  by  a  garden  and 
pleasant  grounds.  The  house  of  the  superintend- 
ant  is  near  by,  and  the  whole  enjt)ys  a  tine  situa- 
tion, with  a  commanding  prospect  and  a  healthy 
neighborhood. 

The  number  of  scholars  is  about  1.30.  Some  of 
them  are  supported  by  a  fund  belonging  to  the  in- 
stitution, and  others  by  the  states  of  Massachu- 
setts, New- Hampshire,  <Slc.  Similar  insiitutions 
exist  in  New-York,  Philadelphia,  Kentucky,  &-c. 

The  Hopkins^s  Grammar  School,  which  has 
been  recently  much  enlarged,  is  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  city. 

The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  is  a  little  south  of 
the  city,  and  makes  a  handsome  appearance,  be- 
ing a  stone  building  150  feet  long  and  50  wide, 
the  wino:s  havintr  three  stories,  and  the  main  build- 
ing  fv)ur.  It  is  caj)able  of  containing  about  50  pa- 
tients, and  is  warmed  by  flues.  The  grounds  con- 
nected with  the  institution  include  about  17  acres. 
Washington  College  is  situated  west  of  the  main 
street,  in  the  south  part  of  the  town.  It  is  an 
episcopal  institution,  and  has  two  stone  buildings  : 


~f 


f 

•.'*.. 


228 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


h 


one  for  the  stuilents,  150  feet  Inrig,  four  stones 
lugf),  will)  accommodations  for  96  pupils  ;  and  a 
chaj)cl,  which  has  also  rooms  fi>r  recitation,  the 
lihrary,   &c.     The  college  bills    are    ^52  50  per 


annum  in  all;  and  the  students  board  in  private 
families  at  the  rate  of  $1  50  per  week.  Fourteen 
acres  of  land  belong  to  the  institution,  part  of 
which  are  devoted  to  the  garden  with  its  green- 
house. 

[Montevideo^  the  seat  of  Daniel  Wadsworth, 
Esq.  enjoys  a  charming  situation  on  a  mountain 
nine  miles  westward.] 

REMARKS.  —  From  Hartford  there  are  stage 
coaches  running  in  various  directions;  north,  one 
on  each  side  of  Connecticut  River  ;  (and  the  steam- 
boat to  Springfield  ;)  north-cast,  to  Boston  ;  east, 
to  Providence  ;  south,  to  New-Haven  and  New- 
York,  (besides  the  daily  steamboats  to  the  latter 
place  ;)  west,  to  Litchfield  and  Poughkeepsie  ;  and 
north-west,  to  Albany. 

The  road  to  Boston  leads  through  Stafford 
Springs,  and  Worcester,  but  is  otherwise  very  un- 
interesting, and  quite  hilly.  The  Boston  and  Wor- 
cester Railroad,  however,  will  be  found  very 
convenient.  There  are  two  routes  to  Boston, 
which  separate  at  Tolland,  and  meet  again  15 
miles  from  that  capital.  On  the  new  road,  (which 
is  shorter,)  a  coach  goes  through  every  day — tra- 
velling from  3  A.  M.  till  6  P.  M . 

Stafford  Springs,  (26  miles  from  Hartford) is  in  a 
romantic  region.  Tolland,  17  m.,  Springs  9,  Stur- 
bridge  16,  &c. 

The  traveller  in  New-England  is  advised  to  take 
the  route  up  Connecticut  river,  which  is  the  most 


roi 
ru 
ou 
soi 


TRAVKLLINO    IN    NEW-ENOLANP. 


229 


r   I 


stories 
;  and  a 
ion,  the 

50  per 

private 
ourteen 

part  of 
s  green- 

Iswortli, 
mountain 

e  stage 
jrth,  one 
le  steam- 
in  ;  eastf 
[id  New- 
he  latter 
Dsie  ;  and 

Stafford 
!  very  un- 
and  Wor- 
jnd  very 
Boston, 
gain  1 5 
d,  (which 
day — tra- 

3rd) is  in  a 
rs  9,  Stur- 

;ed  to  take 
the  most 


fertile,  wealthy,  and  hoaulifiil  tract  of  the  conntry  ; 
and  to  return  by  the  way  of  Boston  and  Provi- 
dence.  Tiiis  is  xUv  route  we  projxjse  to  pursue  ; 
but  the  trav(;ller  can  vary  iVoin  it  as  he  pleases. 
He  will  find  such  iiifornratiori  as  tiiis  little  volume 
is  able  to  allnrd  him,  by  rcfurring  to  the  Index. 

The  fertility  of  the  meadows  in  the  Connecticut 
Valley  is  provrrbiu! ;  and  after  what  the  stranger 
lias  seem  of  its  banks  at  Middh^tovvn  and  Hartford, 
he  will  learn  with  gratification  that  neither  the  soil 
nor  the  beauty  of  the  cultivation  degenrratcs  for 
several  hundred  miles  northward.  The  whole 
country  is  thickly  populated  ;  neat  and  beautiful 
villag(is  are  met  wiih  at  intervals  of  a  few  miles  ; 
and  the  ifeneral  intelligence  derived  from  univer- 
sal education  gives  an  elevated  aspect  to  society. 
The  accommodations  for  travellers  are  generally 
very  comfortable,  and  sometimes  uncommonly 
good  and  elegant;  the  scenery  is  ever  new  and 
varying;  many  places  have  traits  of  interest  in 
their  history ;  and  the  communication  is  easy, 
from  many  points-  of  the  route,  with  the  principal 
places  on  the  east  and  west.  Besides  all  this,  the 
roads  are  peculiarly  fine,  for  they  are  generally 
run  alono-  the  river's  bank,  which  is  almost  with- 
out  exception  level  and  pleasant,  and  formed  of  a 
soil  well  fitted  to  the  purpose. 

The  western  side  of  the  river  is  generally  to  be 
preferred  ;  but  as  there  are  good  roads  on  both 
sides,  and  some  villages  and  other  objects  worthy 
of  equal  notice  on  the  eastern  shore,  and  good  fer- 
ries or  bridg  s  are  to  be  met  with  every  few  miles, 
it  will  be  agreeable  occasionally  t  »  cross  and  re- 
cross.     Those  who  travel  along  the  course  of  the 

lU* 


ii 


13  : 


,! 


i^'m 


230 


ROUTE     UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


Connecticut  twice,  would  do  well  to  go  up  on  one 
side  and  return  on  the  other.  Tfiis  is  the  most  di- 
rect route  to  the  While  Hills,  or  White  Mountains 
of  New-Humpshire. 

The  principal  falls  have  been  canallcd  and 
locked  for  boats  for  a  nuinber  of  years.  A  canal 
ha*  been  made  at  Enfield  Falls,  6  miles  in  length, 
in  the  bed  of  the  river,  with  three  locks,  of  a  suf- 
firifMit  breadth  to  admit  steam  towboats. 

[Tliose  who  go  to  Bost'm  will  pass  through 
Worcester.] 

Worcestar  is  one  of  the  finest  villages  in  New- 
England.  The  country  around  it  is  rich  and  vari- 
egated, and  the  dwellings  have  an  air  of  elegance 
which  docs  rrreat  credit  to  the  taste  as  well  as  the 
wcuith  of  its  inhabita!its.  Brick  is  extensively 
used  in  building.  Perknii^es  are  manufactured 
here  of  fine  q»?aiity.  The  Boston  and  Worcester 
Railroad,  43}  miles,  will  have  no  curve  with  a 
greater  radius  than  M50  ft.,  and  no  inclination 
above  30  ft.  in  a  mile.  The  commencement,  in 
Worcester,  is  4.56  ft.  higher  than  Charles-street, 
Boston.  The  whole  ascent  overcome  in  going  to 
Worcester  is  554  ft.  The  road  is  2  miles  longer 
than  a  straisxht  line,  or  equal  to  the  stage  road. 

The  counhouse,  bank,  itc.  stand  on  the  princi- 
pal street ;  and  east  of  it  the  county  house  and  the 
building  of  the 

American  Historical  Society. — This  is  an 
institution  f(»rmed  by  Mr.  Isaiah  Thomas,  many 
years  a  printer  in  this  place,  for  the  purpose  of 
preserving  every  thing  relating  to  the  history, 
traditions,  &c.  of  the  country.  He  has  made  it  a 
donation  of  his   valuable  library,  between  7  and 


I   I 


EAST    HARTFORD. 


231 


)  on  one 
most  (li- 
juri  tains 

led  and 
A  canal 
1  length, 
of  a  suf- 

through 

in   New- 
and  vari- 
elegance 
ell  as  the 
tensively 
ufactured 
Vorcester 
ve  with  a 
)cHnation 
sment,  in 
les-street, 
going  to 

es  longer 
road. 

16  princi- 
sc  and  the 

his  is  an 
as,  many 
urpose  of 
}  history, 
made  it  a 
leen  7  and 


8000  volumes,    with    many  files  of  newspapers 


the  liJindi 


and  built  at  his  own  expense  the  ruindsome  edince 
in  which  it  is  deposited.  The  buililing  cost  about 
$8000. 

For  the  BlacJcstonc  Canal  which  connects  this 
place  with  Providence,  see  Index. 

Watchusett  Hills,  U>  miles  VV.  N.  \V.  of  Wor- 
cester, and  52  W.  by  N.  of  Boston,  are  estimated 
at  nearly  30nO  feet  above  the  sea,  and  ascended 
by  an  easy  path.  The  spectator  looks  down  on  a 
surrounding  scene  of  wooded  mountains,  below 
which  are  ponds  and  farms,  and  a  view  over  cul- 
tivated and  inhabited  regions. 

[From  Worcester   to    Leicester,  5  milrs  ;  East 
Brookfield,  7  :   Brookfield,  6\   Ware  Factory  Vil- 
lage, 5  ;  Belchertown,  10;  Northampton  15.] 
Route  up  Connecticut  River. 

Leaving  Hartford,  the  State  Arsenal  is  seen  on 
the  right  hand,  a  mile  from  the  city  ;  and  many 
pleasant  views  are  enjoyed. 

[East  Hartford,  op})osite  Hartford,  has  a  sandy 
soil,  but  the  street,  as  well  as  that  of  East  Wind- 
sor, next  north  of  it,  is  shaded  with  rows  of  line 
elms.  The  road  crosses  Podunk  Brook  by  a  small 
bridge,  about  four  miles  from  Hartfi)rd,  on  the 
north  bank  of  which,  on  the  left-hand,  was  once 
a  fort  of  the  powerful  tribe  of  Podunk  Indians, 
who  had  their  settlements  on  this  winding  stream, 
and  some  of  their  broken  implements  are  occa- 
sionally found  in  the  soil.  Tlie  ?iation  was  so 
powerful,  that  Uncas,  Sachem  of  the  Mohegans, 
was  once  daunted  by  the  show  of  their  force,  al- 
though he  had  marched  to  attack  them  with  his 
army,  and  afterward  chose  to  intimidate    theni    by 


« 


f  <l 


!':? 


'        i 

„    i 


IT" 


232 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER, 


i 


;:* 


the  following  stratagem  :  lie  sent  one  of  his  In- 
dians to  burn  a  Pequod  wigwam,  in  the  night, 
near  the  fort,  who  then  lied,  as  lie  was  directed, 
leaving  some  Mohawk  arms  on  the  ground.  This 
made  the  Pequods  believe  that  that  nation  had 
leao^ued  witli  Uncas,  areordin<r  to  an  intimation  he 
had  before  given,  and  they  immediately  sued  for 
peace. 

BisseTs  tavern,  8  miles  from  IIartfi)rd.  In  go- 
ing to  the  ferry,  the  road  passes  the  Bissei  farm, 
OJie  of  the  finest  in  the  country.] 

Windsor,  East  side.  It  has  been  mentioned 
before  that  this  place  was  settled  as  early  as  1635. 
A  few  months  after  the  building  of  the  fort,  (prob- 
ably a  blockhouse,)  the  Dutch  garrison  at  Hart- 
ford made  a  secret  march  against  it,  expecting  to 
take  it  by  surprise  ;  but  on  arriving  at  the  place 
they  found  reason  to  give  up  their  enterprise,  and 
returned  without  firing  a  gun.  The  country  was 
formerly  very  populous  in  Indians,  the  six  square 
miles  of  which  the  town  was  formed,  and  which 
extended  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  containing  ten 
separate  sachemdoms,  or  petty  Indian  tribes. 

The  seat  of  the  late  Chief  Justire  Oliver  Ells- 
worth, stands  on  the  ea^st  side  of  the  street,  above 
the  town,  nine  miles  above  Hartford.  It  is  distin- 
guished by  columns,  and  surrounded  by  trees. 
He  was  born  in  a  house  opposite.  He  was  in 
Europe  as  minister  for  the  United  States  to 
France. 

A  Canal,  6  miles  long,  is  dug  in  the  bed  of  the 
river  at  Enfield  Falls. 

Warehouse  Pointy  in  Enfield,  is  seen  on  the 
east  side.     Here  vessels  are  built,    and    the  place 


er 


SPRINGFIELD. 


233 


\l 


his   In- 

e  ni^ht, 
directed, 
1.  This 
lion  had 
lation  he 
sued    for 

In  go- 
icl   farm, 

lentioned 
as  1635. 

rt,  (prob- 

at   Hart- 

ecting  to 

he    place 

>rise,  and 

ntry  was 

X  square 

d    which 

ning  ten 

bes. 

ver  Ells- 
et,  above 
is  distin- 
by  trees, 
was  in 
5tates    to 

ed  of  the 

n  on  the 
the  place 


carries  on  a  little  trade.  There  is  a  Shaker  settle- 
ment of  about  000  per-ioiis,  5  or  6  njilcs  from  En- 
field. Messrs.  Anch-ews  &-  Thompson's  Carpet 
Manufactory  is  at  Thompsonvillo. 

SuFFiELD  is  a  very  ph^asMiU  town,  about  a  mile 
west  of  .the  river,  and  has  a  jxood  inn.  The  vil- 
lage  street  runs  along  the  ridgo  of  a  long  and  beau- 
tiful hill,  with  neat  houses  and  white  fences  on 
both  sides,  and  the  home  lots  sloping  east  and 
west  towards  the  low  ground.  8unie  of  the 
houses  are  large  ai:d  elegant. 

Suffield  Spn7is;-s,  Ahout  a  mile  south-west  of 
the  street  is  a  mineral  spring  of  slightly  sulphur- 
ous qualities.  A  house  has  been  built  there  about 
20  years,  which  has  accommodations  for  50  per- 
sons, with  baths  of  dillerent  descriptions.  The 
spring  is  in  swampy  land,  and  its  qualities  are 
considered  valuable,  particularly  in  cases  of  cuta- 
neous disorders.  The  place  is  pleasant,  in  the 
midst  or  a  rich  rural  scene,  with  a  pretty  ilower 
garden,  &C. 

Springfield.  Stage  coaches  run  north,  south, 
and  to  Boston  and  Albany.  This  is  a  flourishing 
town,  standing  at  the  foot  of  a  high  hill,  the  side 
of  which  is  ornamented  with  fine  buildings,  the 
residences  of  some  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants, 
and  the  top  occupied  by  the  United  States'  Ar- 
mory. This  establishment  occupies  a  large  space 
of  ground,  and  commands  a  tine  view.  The  build- 
ings containing  the  work-sfiops  for  manufacturing 
small  arms,  the  arsenal,  barracks,  <SlC.  are  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  wall;  and  the  habitations  of  the 
workmen  in  several  neighboring  streets,  are  gen- 
erally neat  houses  with  small  gardens.     About  J 3, 


^ 


J 


i.i  m 


■h 


234 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


t  ■ 


I 


t 


000  muskets  are  made  here  annually  or  60  a  day. 
The  manufactories  on  Mill  river,  a  little  south  ')f 
the  armory,  are  various  and  well  worthy  of  obser- 
vation. A  roaj  that  ruJis  alonjr  the  hank,  pai-iscs  a 
number  pf  flt>ur  nulls,  &c.  belonging  to  individ- 
ir.;'>,  besides  the  Upper,  Middle,  and  Lower  Wa- 
ter Shops,  connected  with  the  armor}.  Tiiereare 
three  dams  of  liewn  stone,  and  the  buildings  are 
well  calculated  for  service  and  durability. 

The  town  is  ornamented  with  many  line  elms 
and  other  trees  ;  and  there  are  two  very  handsome 
churches,  a  High  School,  &lc.  It  was  originally 
considered  within  the  limits  of  Connecticut  Col- 
ony, but  at  length  incorporated  with  Massachu- 
setts. A  tribe  of  Indians  lived  for  some  }ears  on 
Fort  Hill;  but  being  won  over  to  King  Philip's 
party,  in  1675,  they  assumed  a  hostile  air,  fired 
upon  some  of  the  inhabitants  who  were  going  to 
their  fort,  and  burnt  a  part  of  the  town. 

In  1786,  during  tlie  rebellion  of  Shays,  he  at- 
tacked the  armory,  at  the  head  of  a  strong  parly 
of  undisciplined  men.  Gen.  Shepard,  who  had 
command  at  the  place,  attempted  to  dissuade  them 
from  the  attempt,  and  finally  drove  them  off.  The 
first  shot,  over  their  heads,  dispersed  the  raw 
troops,  and  the  second  drove  otT  the  remainder, 
who,  being  about  200  revoluti  ?'iu:y  soldiers,  did 
not  desist  until  they  had  iost  a  iV\v  of  their  men. 
This  was  the  first  check  the  insurrection  received, 
which  was  put  down  without  much  subsequent 
trouble. 

[Wilbraham,  7  or  3  miles  west  from  Springfield, 
contains  a  Wesleyan  Academy,  The  pupils  are 
instructed  in  agriculture  on  a  farm,  and  in  the  me- 


f«OUTH    ilADLEY    FALLS. 


235 


a  day. 

oulh  of 
f  obser- 

indiviii- 
(31*  VV  a- 
hereare 
ngs  are 

ne  elms 
andsuine 
riginally 
cut  Col- 
assucliu- 
3  ears  on 
Fhilip's 
iir,  fired 
going   to 

s,  be    at- 
ng    parly 
ho    bad 
ade  tbem 
tr.     The 
the    raw 
mainder, 
iors,    did 
eir    men. 
received, 
ibsequent 

iringfield, 
)upils  are 
n  the  me. 


I 


r 


chanic  arts  in  a  shop,  belonging  to  the  instimtion. 
Thtvro  are  teachers  iii  xarious  branches  of  litera- 
ture- ^   ieiice,  and  the  arts.] 

i'Vest  Sprivgjicld  has  a  tine  street,  shaded  with 
large  elms,  and  contniningso^iie  luindsome  houses. 
It  is  26  miles  from  Hartford,  and  about  17  miles 
from  Northampton.  There  is  a  fine  view  from 
the  road  on  the  brow  of  a  hill  a  little  north  of  the 
town,  near  a  church,  uhich  overlooks  the  river 
and  an  extent  of  country  on  each  side,  with  Mounts 
Tom  and  Holyoke  in  front 

South  Hadlev  Falls.  The  village  and  locks 
are  on  the  east  side  of  the  river. 

The  whole  fall  is  52  feet,  but  at  the  lower  falls 
only  32.  There  is  a  canal  2^  miles  long  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  cut  through  a  slate  rock  for  a 
considerable  distance,  and  in  some  places  very 
deep.  Tiie  dam  is  8  feet  high,  'inhere  are  live 
locks  near  the  tavern,  and  one  above.  The  toll 
here  is  90  cents.  There  is  a  ferry  here,  which  is 
safe,  but  the  water  runs  very  swiftly. 

For  several  miles  before  reaching  Mcunt  Tom, 
the  road  on  the  west  side,  runs  along  the  banks  of 
the  river,  showing  its  banks,  in  many  places,  rough- 
ened with  rocks.  Its  channel  is  in  one  })lace 
crossed  bv  the  dam,  wbich  turns  the  water  into 
the  South  Hadlcy  Canal.  The  river  makes  an  ab- 
rupt turn  some  miles  above,  running  between 
Mount  Tom  on  the  south  and  Mount  tJoiyoke  on 
the  north ;  and  when  the  scene  opens  again,  it 
discloses  a  charming  and  extensive  plain,  formed 
of  the  meadows  on  the  river's  bank,  one  of  the 
richest,  and  by  far  the  most  extensive  and  beau- 
ful  on  the  river. 


¥ 


» 


,  ! 


^'lr« 


m 


I: 


I 


236 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


NoRTHA>iPT»)N.  Thore'  is  a  splendid  hotel 
here.  Wariu^r  also  kicps  a  very  good  house. 
This  town  is  situated  at,  the  west  side  of  the  plain, 
a  mile  from  tlie  river,  and  is  a  favorite  place  of  re- 
sort for  travellers;  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  the  New-England  villages,  and  is  surround- 
ed by  a  charming  country,  and  lies  near  to  Mount 
Holyoke,  which  comniands  a  view  of  the  whole. 
The  streets  are  irregular,  hut  some  of  them  shady 
and  delightful  in  summer,  being  also  ornamented 
v/ith  many  neat  houses,  [t  is  a  place  of  consider- 
able business;  and  the  soil  makes  valuable  farms. 

Round  Hill  is  a  beautiful  eminence  just  west  of 
the  town. 

The  Lead  Mine.  In  Southampton,  at  the  dis- 
tanc3  of  8  miles,  is  a  lead  mine,  which  will  be  re- 
garded with  ii  terest  by  the  curious  and  scientific. 
A  considerabh'  part  of  the  road  to  it  is  good,  and 
the  place  is  wild  and  rough. 

The  vein  declines  10  or  lo  deirrees  from  a  per- 
pendicular, is  6  or  8  feet  in  diameter,  and  traverses 
granite  juid  other  primitive  rocks.  It  has  been 
ol)served  at  intervals  from  Montgomery  to  Hat- 
field, a  distance  of  20  miles.  In  Southampton  it 
has  been  explored  nmu  y  n)ds  in  length,  to  tiie  depth 
of  40  or  5U  ftu  t ;  and  the  ore,  found  in  masses 
from  a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  a  foot  in  diameter. 
At  the  depth  above  mrniioned,  the  water  became 
abundant  and  a  horizontal  drift,  or  adit,  has  been 
dug.  The  rocks  reckoning  from  the  mouth  of  the 
drift  inwards,  are  geest,  the  red  and  gray  slates  of 
the  co;,!  {'•rmavion,  with  thin  beds  of  coal,  and  mi- 
ca slate,  'ind  grar.ite  alternating. 

The  mouth  ;f  this  drift  is  4  or  6  feet  wide,  and 


■■■» 

■I 


]id    hotel 
)d    house. 

the  phiin, 
lace  of  re- 
ost  beau- 
surround- 

to  Mount 
he  whole, 
iem  shady 
rnamented 

considcr- 
)le  farms, 
ist  west  of 

at  the  dis- 
will  be  re- 
scientific, 
good,  and 

•om  a  per- 
J  traverses 
has    been 
y   to  Hat- 
lampton  it 
I  the  depth 
in    masses 
diameter- 
er  became 
has  been 
)uth  of  the 
y  slates  of 
al,  and  mi- 
wide,  and 


,.  :  I 


i         « 


f 


ii ! 


r! 


i; 


as 


t    • 


9 
•I 

J'' 


'  < 


I  -hM 


')! 


I\ 


V      I 


MOUNT    IIOLYOKE. 


237 


■i;ii 

1 
-'ill 


about  3  feet  above  thp  surface  of  tlie  water.  TIjc 
person  wishiu<;  to  explore  this  ijitornal  etuial,  must 
fire  a  ^un  or  beat  with  a  sleclije  on  the  timbers  ; 
in  lO  or  15  minutes,  he  will  |)erceive  a  gentle  un- 
dulation of  the  wtUt-r,  and  soon  after,  a  b(»at  ad- 
vancing witli  lighted  lamps  and  a  rower.  Having 
seated  himself  on  the  bottom  of  this  boat,  with  an 
adilitional  garment,  he  is  prepared  for  his  subter- 
ranean expedition.  If  he  looks  back,  after  having 
advanced  several  hundred  feet,  tlie  light  at  the  en- 
trance vvill  appear  dijninished  ;  and  before  he 
reaches  the  extremity,  it  becomes  invisible. 


M( 


on NT  UoLVOKE 


The  ascent  of  this  mountain 


has  become  very  fashionable,  perhaps  more  so  than 
any  sindlar  enlerpjise  in  this  country,  if  we  except 
that  of  the  Catskill  Mountains  in  New-York.  The 
height  is  about  8(K)  feet  ;  and  there  is  a  good  car- 
riai^e  road  th?  greater  part  of  the  way  up. 

Tfiere  is  a  short  road  through  the  meadows,  di- 
rectly to  Lyman's  ferry,  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain, which  is  furinsfud  with  a  good  horse-boat. 
But  it  may  be  found  pleasanter  to  cross  the  l)ridge 
at  ilif!  upper  end  of  the  town,  pass  through  llud- 
ley  Meadows,  and  down  on  the  eastern  bank.  Af- 
ter following  tfje  path  up  the  mountain  to  its  ter- 
mination, you  dismount,  secure  your  horses  to  the 


trees,    and  walk  up  a   rude    stone  staircase 


H. 


fteshmcnts  will  be  lound  at  the  house  which  occu- 
pies the  summit ;  and  which  opens  on  both  sides, 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  command  an  uin'fiterrupted 


view    o 


f  th( 


e    ricn    ami    variet 


land 


^cane 


bel 


ow. 


Those  who  wisli  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  seeing  day 
break  and  the  sun  rise  over  such  a  scene,  may  tind 


a  shelter  here  for  the  night. 


20 


'{I     ! 


C   . 


!1 


'1 


Hif  4 


ff       It 


"m  : 


238 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


South-east^  the  country  is  iindulatinrr,  and  the 
soil  generally  poor  ;  yet  several  villages  arc  dis- 
covered at  a  distance,  particularly  South  Hadley, 
immediately  below.  Southwardly  is  seen  Connec- 
ticut river,  retiring  under  the  shade  of  Mount  Tom, 
white.ied  below  by  tfie  South  lladic y  Falls  ;  be- 
yond which  is  the  hill  at  Springfield.  The  river 
makes  several  turns,  and  on  the  horizon  are  two 
very  distant  peaks,  which  have  been  supposed  to 
be  Etst  and  West  Rocks,  at  New-Haven,  about  70 
miles  distant. 

North-east,  is  seen  Monadnoc  Mountain  in  New- 
Hampshire;  and  the  view  towards  the  east  is  in- 
terrupted by  the  neighboring  peaks  of  Mount 
Holyoke. 

Norths  you  look  up  the  charming  valley  of  the 
Connecticut;  bordered  by  distant  ranges  of  hilla 
and  mountains,  varied  by  a  few  isolated  peaks,  co- 
vered with  the  richest  coat  of  vegetation,  and  scat- 
tered with  villages  and  innumerable  far.n  houses. 
The  river  makes  a  beautiful  serpentine  course  ; 
from  where  it  first  appears  at  the  fi)Ot  of  Sugar 
Loaf  Mountain,  and  Mount  Toby,*  until  it  reaches 
the  village  of  Iladley,  which  lies  in  full  view  ;  and 
then  taking  a  bold  sweep  to  the  west,  and  flowing 
4|  miles,  it  returns  to  the  end  o(  the  street,  only 
a  mile  distant  from  where  it  first  meets  it.  The 
whole  peninsula  is  rich  and  fertile,  and  covered 
with  fields  of  wheat,  corn,  grass,  <fec.  without  be- 

*  In  this  mountain,  at  a  place  3  miles  north-east  of  Sunderland  village 
is  a  reraarkalile  cavern,  running  through  the  mountain  h  is  12 rods  long, 
65  feet  deop,  and  from  2  to'^O  feet  wide,  there  is  a  mass  of  pudding 
stoue  on  endi  side,  whicli  appeiii  us  if  they  had  been  rent  apart  There 
is  an  openit\g  at  the  top.  A  small  cave  opens  near  by  it,  45  feet  deep,  10 
wide,  and  K^Olong. 


MOUNT    HOLYOKE. 


239 


and    the 

arc   dis- 

Hadley, 
1  Connec- 
unt  Tom, 
'alls  ;  be- 
,'he  river 
n  are  two 
pposed  to 
1,  about  70 

in  in  New- 
east  is  in- 
of    Mount 

lley  of  the 
res  of  hills 
peaks,  co- 
1,  and  scat- 
r.n  house?, 
tie  course  ; 
of  Sugar 
1  it  reaches 
view  ;  and 
nd  flowing 
reet,    only 
it.     The 
id    covered 
without  be- 


ndcrlanil  village 
t  is  I'-i  rods  long, 
nass  of  pudding 
It  apart  Tliere 
45  feet  deep,  10 


S 


in^  disfigured  by  fences  :  and  is  the  richest  sight 
upon  ihe  river,  particularly  when  viewed  in  con- 
nexion with  the  scene  immediately  below,  where 
the  river  flows  on,  almost  immedialely  under  our 
leet,  and  the  western  shore  presents  the  extensive 
Northampton  Mej.duws,  a  mile  wide.  Following 
the  current  with  the  eye,  in  the 

IVcst-south'WCSt,  it  forms  a  still  more  remarka- 
ble peninsula,  although  one  of  inferior  size  ;  the 
Hockanum  Bend  being  a  turn  measuring  3|  nnles 
in  circuit,  while  the  isthmus  ia  onlv  40  rods  across, 
or  150  yards.  In  the  compass  of  this  view,  from 
the  north  to  the  west  and  south,  numerous  village 
spires  are  seen,  with  level  fl(d(is,  orchards,  and 
gardens,  almost  without  number  ;  and  the  whole 
scene  is  so  bounded  with  mountainous  ridges,  as  to 
seem  to  justify  the  opinion  of  geologists,  who  say 
that  it  was  once  covered  with  an  extensive  lake, 
until  the  water  forced  a  passage  between  Mounts 
Tom  and  Ilolyoke. 

Northampton  is  seen  about  west-north-west, 
with  Round  Hill  ;  and  towards  the  right,  the  top 
of  Saddle  Mountain,  in  the  distance.  There  are 
also  others  still  further  north,  particularly  Hay- 
stack and  Bare  Mountain. 

More  than  30  church  steeples  may  be  counted 
here  by  taking  advantage  of  difl'erent  kinds  of  wea- 
ther. 

In  point  of  history  that  part  of  the  Connecticut 
Valley  immediately  under  the  eye  belongs  to  the 
third  division  of  settlements,  calling  Plymouth  and 
MassHcliusetts  Bay  the  first;  Windsor,  Hartford, 
Wethersfield,  <kc.  the  second.  Northampton,  Had- 
ley,  and  Hatlield  were  settled  in  1653,  and  remain- 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y,  14!!iS0 

(716)  872-45031 


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240 


ROUTE    UP   CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


ed  the  frontier  posts  in  this  direction  till  after 
Philip's  war,  during  which  they  suffHred  severely 
from  constant  alarms,  and  the  loss  of  inhabitants. 
The  Indian  tribes  who  had  sohi  the  land  on  which 
the  towns  were  built,  had  each  a  spot  assigned 
them  within  a  short  tlis^tance  of  the  palisades  with 
which  tlie  new  settlements  were  surrDunded,  and 
lived  in  peace  and  gotxl  laith  until  excited  bv  Phil- 
ip ;  after  which  all  the  towns  were  at  different 
times  attacked  byihem,  and  some  of  them  repeat- 
edly. During  the  French  war,  on  May  13ih,  1704, 
the  Indians  tell  upon  a  little  settlement  at  the  foot 
of  Mount  Tom  and  killed  20  persons,  more  than 
half  of  whom  were  children  ;  and  a  tradition  states, 
that  a  captive  woman  was  once  brought  to  the  top 
of  the  mountain  where  we  stand,  arul  scalped. 

Hadley  was  attacked  by  the  Indians  in  Philip's 
war,  while  the  inhnbiiants  were  at  church,  and  was 
near  falling  into  their  hands,  when  a  stranger,  a 
venerable  old  man,  ma^le  his  appearance,  and  by 
his  active  resistance,  encouraged  them  to  repel  the 
enemy.  It  was  not  known  at  the  time  who  he  was, 
or  whither  he  went  ;  but  there  is  now  little  doubt 
that  he  was  Goffe,  one  of  king  Charle's  judges,  who 
was  secreted  for  a  length  of  time  in  this  town,  and 
of  whom  we  have  already  had  occasion  to  speak 
at  New-Haven.  The  remains  of  his  coffin,  it  is 
believed,  v^  ers  disccjvered  a  few  years  since,  in  the 
cellar  wall  of  a  house  near  the  present  academy, 
which  was  formerly  inhabited  by  one  of  his  friends. 
The  Burning  of  Deerlicld,  we  shall  speak  of  on  ar- 
riving at  that  town. 

Stage  coaches  run  to  Boston  and  Albany  in  a 
day  ;  and  up  and  down  the  river  daily. 


DEERFIELD. 


241 


till  after 
severely 
labitanls. 
un  which 
assigned 
ades  with 
nded,  and 
J  by  Phil- 
different 
in  repeat- 
3ih,  1704, 
it  the  foot 
more  than 
ion  states, 
to  the  top 
!alped. 
in  Philip's 
h,  and  was 
iranger,  a 
;,  and    by 
3  repel  the 
o  he  was, 
tile  doubt 
dges,  who 
own,  and 
to  speak 
ffin,  it   is 
ice,  In  the 
academy, 
is  friends, 
of  on  ar- 

bany  in   a 


Hadley,  3  miles.     (See  the  preceding  page.) 

Hatfield,  one  mile  further,  on  the  west  side  of 
the  river,  is  much  devoted  to  the  winterinjr  of  cat- 
tie  raised  on  the  neighboring  hilly  country.  The 
grass  is  very  fine,  and  the  barns  are  large  ;  which, 
with  the  appearance  of  the  houses,  give  the  place 
an  air  of  substantial  agricultural  wealth.  The  cat- 
tle are  bought,  stabled,  and  fatted. 

[Amherst  is  situated  on  elevated  ground,  five 
miles  from  Hadley  ;  and  off  the  river  towards  the 
north-east. 

Amherst  College, — Although  of  recent  institu- 
tion, this  ranks  among  the  most  respectable  in  New- 
England.  The  situation  occupied  by  the  buildings 
is  delightful,  commanding  a  rich,  extensive,  and 
varied  view,  partly  over  the  meadows  of  Connec- 
ticut river,  with  mountains  particularly  mentioned 
a  few  pages  back,  seen  in  different  directions.  The 
retired  situation  is  highly  favorable  to  study  and 
good  order,  as  its  elevation  and  };ure  air  are  con- 
ducive to  health.  T!ie  president,  Dr.  Humphries, 
is  also  professor  of  mental  and  moral  Philosophy 
and  Divinity.  There  are  six  other  professors,  a 
teacher  of  French  and  Spanish,  a  teacher  of  ma- 
thematics, and  a  tutor  of  Latin  and  Greek. 

The  Amherst  AcademAj  is  a  large  private  estab- 
lishment for  the  education  of  boys.  It  is  about 
three  miles  distant.] 

The  Sugar  Loaf  is  an  isolated  hill  of  a  conical 
form,  rising  in  front  as  we  proceed.  A  line  view 
is  enjoyed  from  the  summit.  Deerfield  lies  north 
of  it  about  three  miles  ;  and  the  way  by  which  we 
approach  it,  is  nearly  along  the  old  road  which 
Jed  thither  through  the  wilderness,  in  1675,  when 

30* 


'm 


i 


I 
\ 


^•1 


ill 


1 1 


m 


4'! 


' 


242 


ROUTE    UP   JCONNECTICUT  RIVER* 


it  was  deserled  by  the  settlers,  and  Capt.  Lothrop 
was  despi  clied,  with  a  b(jdy  of  80  soldiers  and 
wagoners,  to  bring  off  the  grain.  At  the  foot  of 
this  mountain  is  the  small  viiUge  of  Bloody  Brook, 
(improperly  called  Muddy  Brook,)  and  near  the 
spot  where  a  bridge  crosses  the  stream,  Capt.  Lo- 
throp was  ambushed  by  about  800  Indians.  The 
place  was  then  a  marshy  piece  of  ground  ;  and 
some  traces  of  the  road,  which  was  fornied  of  logs, 
are  still  to  be  seen,  ruiming  through  the  fields  with- 
out crossing  at  tlie  bridge.  The  convoy  halted  at 
this  piacp  ;  and  the  soldiers  were  generally  engag- 
ed in  gathering  grapes  from  the  vines  which  ran 
on  the  trees,  having  left  their  muskets  on  the 
ground,  when  the  Inditins  fired  upon  them.  Capt. 
Lothrop  gave  orders  that  the  men  should  disperse, 
and  fire  from  behind  the  trees  ;  but  they  were  aU 
cut  off  except  8  or  10.  This  massacre  was  one  of 
the  most  calamitous  which  ever  occurred  in  New- 
Engiand,  taken  into  view  with  the  small  number 
of  inhabitants  at  the  time  ;  as  the  company  con- 
sisted of  young  men  from  the  principal  families  in 
the  eastern  towns.  There  is  a  stone  now  lying 
near  the  fence,  west  of  the  brook,  which  was 
brought   there   some  j^ears  since  for  a  monument. 

That  part  of  the  meadow  we  pass  through  in  ap- 
proaching Deerfield  was  the  scene  of  several  skir- 
mishes with  the  Indians  at  different  times,  as  the 
place  was  a  frontier  for  many  years,  although  it 
was  twice  burned  and  deserted. 

DtERFiELD.  In  1704,  which  was  the  period  of 
its  last  destruction,  a  large  body  of  Indians,  led  on 
by  a  few  Frenchmen  from  Canada,  came  upon  the 
town  before  daylight.     It  was  winter,  ano.  the  snow 


r 


DKERFIELD. 


243 


Lothrop 
^rs    and 
?  foot  of 
T  Brook, 
ear    the 
!apt.  Lo- 
s.     The 
1(1 ;    and 
of  logs, 
Ids  with- 
hnlted  at 
lyengag- 
hich  ran 
3  on   the 
1.     Capt. 
disperse, 
were  all 
as  one  of 
in  New- 
number 
lany  con- 
milies  in 
ow  lying 
lich  was 
onument. 
gh  in  ap- 
eral skir- 
,    as  the 
lOugh   it 

period  of 
ns,  led  on 
upon  the 
the  snow 


crust  was  strong  enough  to  bear  them  ;  they  had 
secreted  themselves  on  a  hill  north-west  from  Deer- 
field,  and  sent  in  a  scout.  The  houses  were  all  en- 
tered but  one,  the  inhabitants  made  captives,  and 
all,  except  a  few,  taken  off  to  Canada.  One  of 
the  houses  is  standing  at  this  day,  a  little  north  of 
the  church ;  and  the  hole  may  still  be  seen  in  the 
door,  which  the  Indians  hacked  with  their  toma- 
hawks, and  then  fired  through, as  well  as  the  marks 
of  several  bullets  in  the  eastern  room,  one  of  which 
went  through  the  neck  of  a  woman  and  killed  her. 
A  young  man  and  his  bride  leaped  from  a  window 
of  the  chamber  above  ;  and  though  the  latter  was 
unable  to  walk,  in  consequence  of  spraining  her 
ancle,  the  former  fled,  at  her  urgent  request,  and, 
meeting  with  some  troops  on  his  way,  brought 
them  up  in  time  to  drive  off  the  Indians,  but  not 
to  retake  any  of  the  captives. 

A  house  next  this  was  valiantly  defended  by 
seven  men  ;  and  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Williams,  the 
minister,  was  taken,  and  he  and  his  family  carried 
to  Canada.  Most  of  the  people  were  ransomed  ; 
but  a  daughter  of  Mr.  W.  became  attached  to  the 
savage  life,  mar-^'^d  a  chief,  and  left  children. 
Some  marks  of  the  old  picket  may  be  traced  in 
the  rear  of  the  house,  which  is  su[)posed  to  present 
the  same  appearance  as  in  old  time,  excepting  that 
the  kitchen,  &c.  have  since  been  built,  and  the 
front  and  rear  iiave  been  covered. 

East  from  this  place,  are  several  spurs  project- 
ing from  the  hill,  on  one  of  which  was  formerly  a 
fort,  for  the  protection  of  the  Deerfield  Indians 
against  the  Mohawks. 

Greenfield,  3  miles.  Here  the  stage  coach  passes 


;;,  I 


I  , 


244 


ROUTE   UP  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


on  a  road  from  Boston  to  Albany.  The  country 
west  is  highly  picturesque.  Just  south  of  the 
town,  Deertield  river  appears  to  liave  at  some  pe- 
riod formed  a  lake  of  some  extent,  with  an  outlet 
towards  the  east,  where  its  channel  may  be  seen, 
with  the  place  of  an  old  cascade,  and  the  rocks 
bored  out  by  the  rushing  of  the  water.  Tlie  chan- 
nel now  lies  through  a  deep  cut  between  two  hills. 
A  High  School,  for  young  ladies,  is  established 
here. 

Turner''s  Falls  arc  on  Connecticut  river,  two  or 
three  miles  east  from  Greenfield,  The  way  by 
"vhich  we  approach  is  nearly  over  the  same  ground, 
where  Captain  Turner  marched  in  the  year  1076, 
when  he  went  to  attack  a  large  body  of  Indians, 
assembled  at  an  Indian  fort,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
above  the  falls;  and  by  which  he  also  returned, 
after  a  successful  battle,  pursued  by  his  surviving 
enemies. 

Philip,  having  been  driven  from  the  seacoast 
and  the  neighborhood  of  the  English  settlements, 
by  the  active  operations  of  Capt.  Church,  Capt. 
Mosely,  Capt.  Wheeler,  &c.,  retired  with  some  of 
his  followers  to  the  Northfield  Indians,  who  held 
a  position  on  a  sandy  hill,  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
river.  Here  he  was  attacked  in  the  night  by  Capt. 
Turner.  The  English  left  their  horses  on  a  hill, 
which  descends  to  a  brook  emptying  into  the  Con- 
necticut below  the  falls;  and  having  mounted  the 
opposite  bank,  proceeded  near  where  the  present 
road  leads,  and  marched  up  the  sandy  hill.  The 
place  has  a  swamp  on  two  sides,  and  the  river  on 
the  fourth.  The  Indians  had  held  a  feast  that  night, 
and  were  generally  asleep,  so  that  the  attack  of 


VERNON. 


245 


3  country 
Lh  of  the 
some  pe- 
aii  outlet 
be  seen, 
he  rocks 
rhe  chan- 
two  hills, 
itablishcd 

er,  two  or 
e  way  by 

e  ground^ 
ear  1076, 
•  InOians, 
:)f  a  mile 
returned, 
surviving 

seacoast 
tlements, 
ch,  Capt. 
1  some  of 
who  held 
ink  of  the 

by  Capt. 
on  a  hill, 

the  Con- 
inted  the 
e  present 
ill.  The 
i  river  on 

at  night, 
attack  of 


the  white  men  gave  them  a  panic,  and  they  fled 
to  their  boats,  which  they  launched  in  such  haste, 
that  many  forgot  their  paddles,  and  were  carried 
over  the  falls.  The  rest,  however,  rallied  before 
their  enemies  were  out  of  iheir  reach,  and  being 
joined  by  some  from  the  island  below  the  falls, 
pursued  and  harassed  them  about  ten  miles,  to 
D(«rfH'l(i.  Bones  are  occasionally  dug  up  near  the 
spot,  and  a  few  years  ago  the  remains  of  an  old 
musket,  a  few  silver  coins,  &<c.  were  discovered 
among  the  rocks. 

This  was  the  last  and  most  severe  blow  Philip 
received,  before  he  returned  to  his  native  country 
in  Rhode  Island,  wfiere  he  soon  after  terminated 
his  dangijrous  life,  and  the  war,  which  brought  so 
many  calamities  upon  New-England. 

The  Canal.  A  dam  of  great  height  is  built  at 
Turner's  falls,  to  supply  a  canal,  which  extends 
two  or  three  miles  for  boats  and  rafts.  Some  mills 
are  also  establishc  d  on  the  river's  bank.  The  fall 
is  divided  by  two  rude  rocks,  between  which  the 
water  rushes  in  separate  cataracts ;  and  the  scenery 
below  is  wild,  and  not  a  little  imposing.  This  is 
part  of  the  New-Haven  Greenstone  range,  and 
there  are  two  veins  of  copper  in  the  mountain  : 
specimens  of  coal  h  ive  been  found.  There  is, 
however,  no  inn  nearer  than  Greenfield.] 

Bernardston,  8  miles  from  Greenfield. 

Vernon.  Within  the  limits  of  this  township, 
which  is  the  first  in  Vermont,  was  once  Fort  Dum- 
mer,  one  of  a  chain  of  forts  built  for  the  protec- 
tion of  the  country  against  the  Canadian  Indians. 

Passing  through  a  pretty  village,  with  several 
mills,  after  a  few  miles  we  approach  BratUebo* 


H: 


I: 


(    1  r- 
■flt 

1;  M 

;  ,.i.M. 

,, .  11 

246 


ROUTE  UP  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


rough,  south  of  which,  east  of  the  road,  is  a  quarry, 
which  furnishes  a  large  ([uantily  t>f  slate. 

Brattlehorough  is  a  very  pleasant  village,  situa- 
ted on  an  elevated  plain  ahove  the  river,  which, 
since  the  draining  of  the  old  lake  in  this  place,  \vaz 
made  two  or  three  successive  arches  north  of  the 
town,  as  it  has  gradually  lowered  its  channel  to  the 
present  level.  At  the  bridge,  over  a  small  stream, 
are  several  manufactories;  and  in  the  village  is  a 
large  and  comfortable  stage  house,  whence  coaches 
go  to  Boston,  as  well  as  vv'est,  north,  and  jouih. 

Westminster.  This  is  on  a  fine  extensive  level ; 
and  on  the  high  land,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  is 

Walpole,  Connecticut  river  being  the  dividing 
line  between  the  two  adjacent  stales,  Walpole  is  in 
New-Hampshire.  The  situation  is  very  command- 
ing, and  the  summit  of  the  hill,  above  the  village, 
aifords  a  vie w  of  un usual  extent  and  beauty.  Stage 
coaches  go  hence  to  Boston,  6lc, 

Three  miles  north  is  the  farm  of  Col.  Bellows, 
which  contains  700  acres.  The  house  of  the  pro- 
prietor enjoys  a  fine  situation  on  a  ridge  rising 
from  the  meadowy  near  where  stood  the  fort  erect- 
ed by  Col.  Bellows,  when,  about  the  middle  of  the 
last  century,  the  settlement  was  begun. 

Bellovfs  Falls.  The  height  of  this  fall  is  incon- 
siderable, but  it  is,  on  the  whole,  a  striking  object ; 
surrounded  by  rocky  banks,  and  having  an  abrupt 
mountain  on  the  eastern  side.  The  place  has  also 
been  much  ornamented  by  art ;  for,  besides  the 
village,  with  its  neat  while  houses  and  handsooio 
church,  a  canal  has  been  dug  round  the  falls,  a 
bridge  thrown  over  them,  and  the  rugged  side  of  the 
mountain  decorated  with  a  handsome  country  jeat. 


CHARLESTOVVN. 


247 


I  quarry, 

ye,  situa- 
',  which, 
lace,  ha:: 
h  of  the 
^G\  to  the 
1  str^m, 
lagc  is  a 
3  coaclies 
jouih. 
ive  level; 
le  of  the 

}  dividing 
pole  is  in 
onrimand- 
e  village, 
y.    Stage 

Bellows, 
f  the  pro- 
Ige  rising 
ort  erect- 
die  of  the 

is  incon- 
g  object ; 
an  abrupt 
e  has  also 
sides  the 
landsopo 
\e  falls,  a 
ide  of  the 
ntrv  s^at. 


The  rocks  arc  of  the  most  firm  and  solid  gray 
granite,  but  are  much  cut  by  the  force  of  the  cur- 
rent. In  some  places  holes  have  been  bored  into 
them  perpendicularly,  two  or  three  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  \2  or  even  18  feet  deep.  This  is  done  by 
the  motion  given  to  the  loose  stones  by  the  eddies 
of  the  stream,  and  the  gradual  enlargement  of  the 
bore  sometimes  breaks  off'great  masses  of  the  rock. 
These  falls  were  once  the  fovorite  resort  of  the 
Indians  during  the  fisliing  season.  On  the  rock 
just  below  the  bridge  are  some  remains  of  their 
rude  attempts  at  sculj)ture,  which  rv3])resent  the 
form  of  human  faces;  and  from  one  on  the  end 
of  the  stone,  which  appears  to  have  suffered  less 
fron)  the  attriiioi^  of  the  floods,  it  would  seem  as 
if  they  might  once  have  been  more  finished  speci- 
mens of  3culptare  than  they  now  appear,  as  that 
presents  considerable  prominency  and  beauty  of 
execution. 

The  Hunt  Farm  is  about  3^  miles  from  the 
falls,  and  is  a  1? rge  and  valuable  estate,  the  mea- 
dows being  rich  and  beautiful  in  the  extreme. 

Charlestown.  This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  little 
villages  in  New-England:  having  a  wide  street, 
partly  shaded  with  trees,  and  lined  with  neat 
houses,  many  of  which  speak  the  taste,  as  well  as 
the  easy  circumstances  of  their  proprietors. 

The  fort,  built  for  the  defence  of  the  place  in 
1743,  stood  on  the  gently  rising  ground  a  little 
south  of  the  church,  where  the  street  runs;  but  not 
a  vestage  of  it  is  to  be  discovered.  It  was  most 
gallantly  defended  by  Captain  Stevens,  in  1747, 
against  a  large  number  of  French  and  Indians  :  al- 
though repeatedly  called  upon  to  surrender,  the 


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248 


ROUTE  UP  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


garrison  persisted  in  the  de fence,  digging  into  the 
ground  to  shelter  themselves  from  the  enemy's  fire, 
and,  alter  several  days,  succeeded  in  driving  them 
away.     Capt.  S.  received  a  sword  for  his  bravery. 

Mr.  Jarvis's  Farm,  at  Wethersfiehl  Bow,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  very  extensive,  and  con- 
tains a  number  of  large  buildings  for  dwellings, 
barns,  stables,  Slc,  principally  of  brick.  The  land 
is  generally  fenced  with  roots  of  pine  trees,  drag- 
ged from  the  ground,  by  which  the  soil  is  render- 
ed fit  for  immediate  cultivation, and  unencumbered. 

The  road  beyond  affords  some  romantic  scenes. 
The  hills  approach  the  river  very  nearly,  and  seve- 
ral views  are  caught  between  them,  of  the  moun- 
tain behind  Windsor,  which  is  abiuit  2000  feet  in 
height,  and  divided  into  three  peaks,  whence,  it  is 
said,  it  tlerived  the  name  of  Ascutney,  which  in 
the  Indian  languiige,  means  three  brothers. 

WINDSOR  is  a  fine  and  nourishing  town,  in  a 
very  picturesque  situation,  particularly  when  view- 
ed from  tlie  opposite  side  of  the  river;  and  con- 
tains a  good  stage  house,  kept  by  Pettes,  a  num- 
ber of  stores,  some  elegant  houses,  two  or  three 
handsome  churches,  and  the  State  Prison. 

This  latter  building  is  of  granite,  on  the  hill  in 
the  western  part  of  the  town.  It  is  planned  after 
the  old  and  ill-devised  system.  The  stones  are  se- 
cured against  removal,  by  having  six  pound  can- 
non sliot  placed  between  them,  holes  being  cut  into 
the  stones  to  receive  them. 

Mount  Ascutney.  A  part  of  the  way  up  this 
mountain  a  road  has  been  cut,  and  the  traveller 
will  be  richly  rewarded  for  the  labor  of  his  ascent. 
From  the  nature  of  the  soil,  he  cannot,  indeed. 


WHITE    KIVEK. 


Ud 


into  the 
y'slire, 
ig  them 
>ravcry. 
,  on  the 
m\  con- 
fellings, 
'he  hind 
s,  drag- 
render- 
mhered. 
;  scenes, 
lid  seve- 
i  moun- 
)  feet  in 
ice,  it  is 
v^hich  in 

t   ■ 

vvn,  in  a 
en  view- 
nd  con- 
a  niim- 
or  three 

e  hill  in 
ed  after 
s  are  se- 
nd can- 
cut  into 

up  this 
raveller 

ascent. 

indeed. 


expect  to  behohl  a  scene  like  that  from  Mount  IIol- 
yoke  ;  but  the  3  is  a  great  deal  that  is  line  in  the 
appearance  of  the  surrounding  country,  rough,  and 
interspersed  with  villages  and  cultivated  tracts, 
with  the  Connecticut  wiiidiuir  ihrou»rfj  it. 

The  Gulf  Uoad.  [Those  who  are  going  west- 
ward from  this  part  of  the  river,  are  counselled  to 
take  the  Gulf  Road  to  Burlington,  on  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  to  which  a  f  tage  coach  runs.  Although  the 
route  is  through  the  chain  of  the  Green  Mountains, 
the  way  is  remarkably  smooth  and  easy,  following 
the  courses  of  the  White  and  Onion  rivers,  which 
have  cut  deep  channels  through  the  rocks.]  You 
have,  however,  first  to  go  sixteen  miles  along  the 
western  bank  of  the  Connecticut  to 

White  River,  Here  great  quantities  of  lumber 
are  brought  down,  sawed  on  the  stream,  and  sent 
by  the  Connecticut  in  rads  to  the  country  beh)W. 

The  road  up  the  White  River  lies  along  the 
north  bank,  and  passes  through  several  beautiful 
and  flourishing  vilhiges.  The  valley,  though  nar- 
row, wears  the  same  aspect  of  the  Connecticut. 
This  was  one  of  the  courses  formerly  chosen  by 
the  Indians  of  the  north  in  their  commerce  with 
those  on  the  borders  of  that  river,  before  the  ar- 
rival of  Europeans;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a 
short  portage,  between  the  White  and  Onion  ri- 
vers, they  brought  their  furs  from  Canada  by  wa- 
ter. During  the  Indian  and  French  wais,  this 
route  was  frequently  used  for  more  hostile  pur- 
poses ;  and  captives  were  taken  from  these  settle- 
ments so  late  as  the  Revolutionary  war.  The 
scenery  is  interesting  and  various  all  along  the 
route. 

21 


1' 

;     1 

y 


mi 


, 


250 


ROUTE  UP  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


iff'.  ■  ff: 


Roi/altorij  a  pretty  villagro.  This  place  was 
burned,  Oct.  iGth,  1781,  l)y  MOO  men,  principally 
Indians,  wiio  cunie  down  iVoin  ('anada.  They 
killed  two  men  and  took  away  six  prisoners  to 
Montreal. 

Randolph  is  considered  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful towns  in  Vermont,  and  a  stage  coach  likewise 
passes  that  way. 

Gulf.  The  entrance  of  this  remarkable  pas- 
sage from  the  east,  is  under  the  brow  of  an  abrupt 
mountain,  where  a  branch  of  White  River  flows 
along  by  the  road  in  a  gentle  current. 

The  Gulf  road  extends  six  miley,  and  the  ground 
is  so  level  that  it  has  been  proposed  to  make  it  the 
course  of  a  canal.  On  the  height  of  land  is  a  pond, 
from  which  flows  a  stream  into  the  valley.  Part 
of  it  joins  the  White  River,  and  part  the  Onion 
River, 

Montpelier  is  the  capital  of  Vermont,  and  a 
very  pretty  town.  It  contains  the  State  House^  a 
Court  House,  an  Academy,  and  other  public 
buildings.* 


,  III]. 


*  History  of  the  State. — Thfi  first  discovery  of  Vermont  was  made  in 
1C09,  by  Samuel  Champlain,  who,  alter  estc-blishing  n  colony  at  Wuebec, 
proceeding  up  the  rivers  St  Lawrence  and  fciu'pl.  explored  and  gavi;  his 
own  n:ime  to  the  lake  which  washes  the  western  part  of  the  state.  In 
1724,  the  govfcrnment  of  Massachusetts  erected  Fort  Du'i-mer,  in  thutowu 
of  Brattleborough,  on  Connecticut  river  The  first  settlement  in  the  wes- 
tern part  of  the  state  was  commenced  by  the  French  in  i731,  in  the  town 
of  Addison,  and  at  the  same  time  they  erected  a  fort  at  Crown  Point. 
The  government  of  New-Hampshire  began  to  make  grants  of  townships 
within  the  present  limits  of  Vermont  in  1749.  at  which  time  the  scttlem  nt 
of  Bennington  was  commenced,  and  at  the  same  time  a  violent  controver- 
sy ensued  between  the  New-Hampshire  grants  and  the  provin  e  of  New- 
Yorii.  Tlie  first  converitio!)  ol  the  state  met  it  Dorset,  in  177c,  and  the 
fir^^t  constitution  was  adopted  by  a  coiivoution  assendded  at  Windsor  in 
July,  1777,  but  the  organization  of  the  government  did  not  take  place  un- 
til  March,  1778. 
The  diificuities  between  Vermont  and  New- York  were  amicably  86t- 


ace  was 
inci  pally 
.  They 
oners  to 

5t  beauti- 
likewise 

able  pas- 
an  abrupt 
iver  flows 

he  ground 
vdke  it  the 
is  a  pond, 
ley.  Part 
the  Onion 

|ont,  and  a 

House,  a 

er    public 


nt  was  Made  in 
ony  at  Uuebec, 
(1  and  gavb  his 
f  the  state.    In 
ner,in  thctowu 
fieut  in  the  wes- 
31,  in  the  town 
t  Crown  Point. 
Its  of  townships 
e  the  scttlem  nt 
)lent  controver- 
oviii  e  of  New- 
n  1776,  and  the 
at  Windsor  in 
take  place  un- 

e  amicably  set- 


,..■  n 


I 


I 


DARTMOUTH  COLLEGE. 


251 


From  Montpelier  to  Burlington,  the  road  pur- 
sues the  course;  of  Onicjii  Riv<M'  lu'arly  the  whole 
distance,  and  ailords  a  succession  of  hilly  and 
mountainous  scenery,  such  as  is  characteristic  of 
the  stale. 

There  are  two  remarkable  Water  Falls,  near 
the  road.  The  Upper  Fall  is  in  ihe  n»idst  of  a 
wild  scene,  the  water  pouring  over  broken  rocks, 
between  two  high  ami  perpendicular  banks.  At 
the  Lower  Fall  the  channel  is  obstructed  in  such 
a  manner  by  several  iarge  rucks,  that  the  stream 
is  turned  alternately  from  side  to  side,  in  a  zig  zag 
course.  A  few  milts  before  reaching  Burlington, 
the  road  leaves  the  river,  which  bends  away  fur- 
ther towards  the  north.  At  its  mouth  is  an  exten- 
sive and  fertile  meadow,  which  may  bear  a  com- 
parison with  those  on  the  Conriecticut.] 

Hanover,  21  miles  above  Windsor,  is  remark- 
able as  the  seat  of 

DARTMOUTH  COLLEGE,  an  institution 
which  holds  a  very  respectable  rank  for  learning 
and  influence,  the  number  of  its  pupils,  and  the 
ability  of  its  officers.  It  was  founded  for  the  edu- 
cation of  Indians,  and  was  named  after  William, 
Earl  of  Dartmouth.  It  possesses  a  large  tract  of 
land,  which,  however,  is  unproductive.  Two  new 
college  buildings  and  several  of  the  houses  about 
the  green  are  very  neat,   and    the    ground   being 

tied  in  1790,  and  the  next  year  she  was  admitted  into  the  confederacy  of 
the  states. 

Srhof)f.s  in  Vermont. — Vermont  has  1012  school  districts,  each  of  which 
is  required  to  have  a  school  three  months  in  twelve,  independently  of  the 
public  money,  though  each  township  has  .school  land,  the  income  from 
which,  with  a  share  of  the  money  raised  by  goner."!  tax  is  appropriated 
to  sci  ools,  and  pays  about  half  their  evpense  in  the  state-  There  are 
about  30  Academies  and  Grammar  Schools. 


I  I 


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I; 


I 


m 

mm 


m 


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t'  i 


til' 
till  ' 


252 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


elevated,  the  place  is  pleasant.     The  bills  for  tui- 
tion here  are  ^33  a  year. 

The  Medical  Institution  is  a  brick  building,  a 
little  north  from  the  square.  The  number  of 
scholars  in  the  college  is  generally  about  140. 

The  road  between  Hanover  and  Haverliill,  28 
miles,  presents  few  objects  of  much  interest;  the 
country  not  being  thickly  populated,  and  no  villa- 
ges interveniiig,  except  Oxford,  which  has  several 
very  neat  houses. 

The  Strafford  Copperas  Works  are  nine  miles 
north  of  Norwich.  One  of  the  buildings  is  267 
feet  long.  The  ore  is  pyrites,  taken  from  a  stra- 
tum in  a  hill  overlaid  by  a  crust  of  ferruginous 
earth  containing  petrified  leaves,  &c.  The  ore  is 
broken  and  thrown  into  heaps,  for  about  two 
months,  when  it  gradually  undergoes  a  chyraical 
change,  emitting  spontaneous  fire  and  fumes  of 
sulphur.  It  is  then  leached  in  tubs,  and  the  wa- 
ter, after  boiling,  yields  crystals  of  copperas,  of 
a  rhombic  form  and  a  beautiful  green  color.  The 
manufactories  produce  about  10,000  tons  annually. 

Haverhill.  There  are  three  villages  in  this 
town,  but  the  northern  one  is  where  the  Boston 
road  comes  in,  and  where  there  are  two  good  inns. 
The  situation  is  elevated,  and  overlooks  the  mead- 
ows for  some  distance.  The  distant  scenery  is 
here  very  fine,  as  Moosehillock  Mountam  and 
several  others  are  in  plain  view,  and  serve  as  an 
introduction  to  the  White  Mountains,  which  we 
are  approaching. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Piermont^ 
where  is  a  Sulphur  Spring  of  some  local  cele- 
brity, with  a  building  for  baths.     Some  distance 


I. 


FRANCONIA. 


253 


Us  for  tui- 

)ui1ding,  a 
number  of 
lit  140. 
vrerliill,  28 
terest ;  the 
id  no  villa- 
has  several 

nine  miles 
ngs  is  267 
•om  a  stru- 
ferruginous 
The  ore  is 
about   two 
a  chyraical 
d  fumes    of 
md  the  wa- 
)pperas,    of 
olor.     The 
IS  annually, 
iges  in  this 
the  Boston 
)  good  inns. 
is  the  mead- 
scepery   is 
)untain   and 
serve  as  an 
5,  which  we 

Piermontt 
local  cele- 
ne  distance 


south  of  it  is  a  large  house,  in  an  agreeable  situa- 
tion, for  the  accommodation  of  visiters. 

The  Great  Ox-how  is  a  meadow  containing 
about  500  acres,  lying  in  the  town  of  Piermont  on 
the  western  bank,  and  in  the  form  of  a  crescent. 
The  soil  is  fine  and  valur  Je;  but  from  the  com- 
paratively small  extent  of  the  meadow,  it  cannot 
be  compared  with  that  of  Hadley. 

At  Bath  is  the  handsome  residence  of  Hon.  M. 
P.  Payson,  and  an  excellent  inn  kept  by  Carleton. 

From  Bath  to  the  White  Mountains,  there  are 
two  roads,  one  of  which  turns  off  through  Lisbon, 
Littleton,*  Bethlehem,  Breton  Woods,  Nash  and 
Sawyer's  Patent,  and  Shadbourn  and  Hart's  Pa- 
tent. 

Such  is  the  wildness  of  the  country,  that  we  can 
do  little  more  than  enumerate  the  places.  The 
road  is  in  many  places  rocky,  and  in  others  rough, 
on  account  of  the  logs  which  have  been  laid  down 
to  support  it,  and  the  remains  of  the  stumps  of 
trees.  But  it  is  more  direct  and  much  less  moun- 
tainous, than  that  which  passes  through  Lancas- 
ter. It  does  not,  however,  afford  that  fine  view 
of  the  Connecticut  Valley,  nor  of  the  ranges  of 
mountains  which  there  surround  it,  like  a  magni- 
ficent amphitheatre. 

[Franconia.  This  is  a  secluded  village  among 
the  mountains,  5  miles  from  Bethlehem,  where 
iron  is  manufactured  to  a  considerable  extent.  It 
is  at  the  foot  of  Haystack  Mountain,  which  is 
about  half-way  between  Mount  Washington  and 
Moosehillock—20   miles  from  each.     The  stage 

*  At  Littleton  is  an  excellent  inn.    Distance  from  Hanover,  60  mile*; 
from  E.  A.  Crawford's,  18. 

21* 


.-.1 


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11 


254 


ROUTE    UP    CONNECTICUT    RIVER. 


coach  passes  on  the  road  to  Concord  and  Boston 
by  Plymouth,  N.  H. 

The  Haystack  may  be  ascended  by  any  traveller 
disposed  for  arduous  enterprises.  A  footpath 
turns  off  from  the  road  about  6  miles  from  Fran- 
conia,  which  conducts  to  the  summit,  3  miles. 
The  first  two  miles  are  through  thick  hemlock, 
hacmetac,  spruce,  &c.  then  i  mile  stunted  trees, 
and  the  rest  bare  rocks.  Near  the  spot  where 
the  path  begins  is  a  remarkable  Lusus  Natures^ 
formed  by  a  rock  on  the  side  of  a  mountain,  which 
bears  a  resemblance  to  the  human  face  in  profile. 
This  eminence,  called  Profile  Mountain^  is  4  miles 
south  of  the  lower  iron  works.  The  forest  shrub- 
bery extends  to  the  margin  of  the  bare  rocks 
much  in  the  proportion  of  the  bust  of  a  man.  It 
is  called  the  ""Old  Man  of  the  Mountain:'  The 
precipice  is  600  or  lOnO  feet  high,  and  rises  from 
the  side  of  a  pond,  which  is  a  source  of  the  Pe- 
migewasset  river.  More  than  fifty  peaks,  it  is 
said,  may  be  counted  from  the  top  of  the  Hay- 
stack. 

[Lancaster  is  a  very  pleasant  town,  and  the 
last  on  the  river  which  merits  that  name.  The 
surrounding  mountains  form  a  noble  scene,  su- 
perior to  every  other  of  this  nature  along  its 
course. 

The  Canada  line  is  only  40  miles  north,  and 
lies  along  the  Connecticut.  The  following  are 
the  towns:  Northumberland;  Stratford;  Colum- 
bia; Colebrook  ;  and  Stewartstown.] 

[Having  now  completed  the  route  up  Connec- 
ticut River,  we  return  to  Long  Island  Sound. 
For  other  routes  and  places,  see  Index.] 


NEW-LONDON. 


255 


;■,) 


Boston 

raveller 
botpath 
n  Fran- 
\   miles, 
emlock, 
d  trees, 
»t  where 
Natures, 
n,  which 
I  profile. 
s  4  miles 
st  shrub- 
re   rocks 
man.     It 
."     The 
ses  from 
•  the  Pe- 
ks,   it  is 
he  Hay- 

and   the 

le.     The 

;ene,  su- 

ilong   its 

•th,    and 

ring  are 

Colum- 

IConnec- 
Sound. 


NEW-LONDON,  CONNECTICUT.  Entering 
New-London  Harbor,  (in  a  steamboat,)  on  the 
left  is  the  Lighthouse,  and  the  dwelling  of  Gen, 
North,  onct;  aid-de-camp  to  Baron  Steuben.  The 
shore  beyond  is  inhabited  by  fishermen,  whose 
boats  (called  smacks)  are  generally  to  be  seen  in 
great  numbers. 

Fort  Trumbull  occupies  a  point  beyond,  and  is 
garrisoned  by  the  United  States.  It  was  taken  in 
the  revolutionary  war,  as  well  as  the  town,  and 
Fort  Griswold,  which  stands  on  the  high  hill  oppo- 
site, marked  by  a  fine  monument.  Looking  up 
the  River  Thames,  the  prospect  is  handsome,  the 
banks  being  high  and  cultivated,  and  backed  by 
Horton's  Hill  several  miles  distant,  in  the  Mohea- 
gan  country. 

The  harbor  of  New-London  is  one  of  the  most 
accessible,  safe,  and  commodious  in  the  United 
States,  lying  near  the  Ocean  and  the  Sound,  al- 
most surrjunded  by  high  land,  and  having  water 
enough  for  ships  of  war  quite  up  to  the  wharves, 
with  a  fine  sandy  bottom  near  the  shores.  It 
serves  in  some  degree  as  the  port  of  Connecticut 
River,  because  there  is  no  good  harbor  there; 
and  a  ffreat  deal  of  trade  was  carried  on  with  the 
West  Indies  a  few  years  ago. 

New-London  is  the  third  town  in  Connecticut 
for  the  number  of  inhabitants,  and  enjoys  the  pri- 
vileges of  a  city.  It  is  situated  irregularly,  prin-^ 
cipally  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  facing  the  east. 

There  is  a  road  hence  to  Providence,  and  an- 
other from  Norwich,  (13  miles  up  the  Thames,) 
both  equally  uninteresting,  and  nearly  of  equal 
length.     The  river,  however,  affords  some  very 


t 


ill 


u 

■  I 


\i 


^a. 


1 ,11 


^  I 


!i^ 


256        ROUTE    FROM    NEW-YORK    TO    BOSTON. 

pretty  scenes,  and  Norwich   is   a  neat  and  inter- 
esting town. 

Fort  Griswold,  opposite  New-London,  was  gar- 
risoned by  a  few  continental  troops  in  the  year 
1781,  in  the  Revolution,  when  Benedict  Arnold, 
after  his  treacherous  desertion  of  the  American 
cause,  appeared  off"  the  harbor  with  a  British  force 
on  the  6th  of  September;  and  landing  800  men 
on  each  point  of  the  harbor,  marched  up  and  took 
Fort  Trumbull,  and  burnt  the  town.  Col.  Ayres, 
who  commanded  the  troops  on  the  eastern  shore, 
proceeded  towards  Fort  Griswold,  and  demanded 
a  surrender.  Col.  Ledyard,  however,  had  garri- 
soned it  with  120  men,  chiefly  militia  volunteers 
from  the  neighborhood.  The  British  advanced 
under  cover  of  a  wocd,  and  invested  the  fort;  but 
the  Americans  defended  themselves  for  some  time, 
beating  off  their  enemies  once,  and  finally  surren- 
dered, when  resistance  would  have  been  entirely 
useless.  The  enemy  had  ]ost41  oflicers  and  men, 
who  were  buried  near  the  spot;  with  Col.  Ayres, 
the  commander,  wounded,  and  Maj.  Montgomery 
killed.  After  the  surrender,  however,  a  massacre 
of  the  prisoners  took  place,  which  cast  the  deep- 
est disgrace  on  the  expedition  :  70  officers  and 
men  being  the  victims,  mon  of  whom  were  heads 
of  families.  Many  of  the  wounded  were  also 
treated  in  a  most  barbarous  manner,  being  placed 
in  a  cart,  and  rolled  down  the  hill  just  south  of  the 
present  road  to  the  fort.  There  has  been  built  by 
subscription  a  monument  on  the  spot,  an  obelisk, 
120  feet  high,  which  cost  about  ,f  14,000. 

Road  from  New-London  to  Providence. 

Fort  Hill  is  a  commanding  eminence,  about  4 


)N. 

id  inter- 
was  gar- 
the  year 

Arnold, 
Vnierican 
tish  force 
800  men 
and  took 
il.  Ayres, 
rn  shore, 
lemanded 
lad  garri- 
olunteers 
advanced 
fort ;  but 
ometime, 
|y  surren- 

entirely 
and  men, 
:>!.  Avres, 
itgomery 
massacre 
the  deep- 
icers  and 
ere  heads 
i^ere  also 
ng  placed 
uth  of  the 
1  built  by 
obelisk, 

ENCE. 

;,  about  4 


yORT    HILL. 


2&7 


miles  east  from  this  place,  and  a  Pequod  Fort 
formerly  occupied  its  summit.  The  road  crosses 
it  near  the  southern  limit  of  the  fort,  ami  a  small 
church  stands  a  quarter  of  a  njile  above,  within 
the  extensive  space  once  enclosed  by  that  palisa- 
ded work.  It  was  the  great  fortress  of  the  terri- 
ble Pequod  nation,  which  makes  a  very  conspic- 
uous figure  in  the  early  history  of  the  eastern 
colonies.  They  had  fought  their  way  from  the 
interior,  and  seated  themselves  in  the  present  lim- 
its of  Groton,  where  the  few  poor  remains  of  their 
descendants  still  are  found.  On  the  arrival  of  the 
English,  they  had  extended  their  conquests  a  con- 
sitierable  distance  up  Connecticut  River,  and  the 
Eastern  and  Western  Nehantics  on  the  coast  were 
subject  to  them. 

In  consequence  of  the  murders  they  had  com- 
mitted, and  the  att-tcks  with  which  they  threat- 
ened the  infant  settlements  at  Hartford,  Windsor, 
and  WethersfieM,  the  inhabitants  formed  an  expe- 
dition in  the  spring  of  1637,  led  by  Capt.  Mason, 
attacked  their  other  fort  on  the  Mystic,  burnt  it, 
and  killed  about  600  persons :  after  which  the  na- 
tion fled  from  their  country ;  and  having  suffered 
another  terrible  slaughter  in  the  swamp  at  Fair- 
field, were  reduced  to  slavery,  and  ceased  from 
that  time  to  be  an  object  of  terror. 

This  hill  commands  an  extensive  and  delightful 
view  of  Long  Island  and  the  Sound,  with  various 
islands,  bays,  and  points  on  the  Connecticut  coast. 
At  the  time  of  the  burning  of  Mystic  Fort,  it  was 
occupied  by  the  chief  Sachem  Sassarus,  who  has- 
tened to  the  relief  of  his  subjects,  but  arrived  too 
late  to  render  them  any  assistance.     On  his  return 


■'/S 


I 


I 


111! 

I 


111' 

I 


268       ROUTE    FROM    NEW-YORK    TO    BOSTON. 

here,  he  burnt  the  wigwams  and  palisadoes,  and 
immrdialely  fl^d  for  refuge  to  the  Mohawks,  by 
whom  he  was  beheaded. 

Mystic,  1\  miles. 

Stonington,  \0  mWes, 

On  descending  the  hill  which  leads  into  this 
village,  Porter's  Rock,  30  or  40  feet  high,  is  seen 
a  liule  off  the  road  on  the  right-hand.  Under  the 
shelter  of  it  Capt.  Mason  encamped  with  his  little 
army,  on  the  night  of  May  26,  1637,  old  style,  a 
few  hours  before  his  successful  attack  on  the  se- 
cond Pequod  Fort,  which  was  on  the  top  of  a  hiil 
about  two  miles  south  of  this  place. 

During  the  last  war,  a  small  fort  in  this  town 
was  attacked  by  a  ship  and  two  brigs  of  Com. 
Hardy's  squadron,  and  defended  by  the  inhabitants 
with  great  gallantry. 

Hopkinton,    11    miles.       West   Greenwich,   15 
miles.     Centreville,   2  miles.     [Here  are  several 
cotton    manufactories.]      Providence,    11    miles. 
{See  page  266  ) 
Steamboat  Route  from  New-London  to  Norwich. 

A  little  above  New-Loi'don,  is  a  singular  rock, 
on  the  eist  side,  where  the  explorers  of  the  river 
are  said  to  have  landed,  and  to  have  been  attacked 
by  the  Pequods.  The  Moheagan  country  lies 
above,  on  the  west  side,  with  Horton^s  Hill,  on 
the  top  of  which  TJneas  had  a  fort,  where  an  In- 
dian church  now  stands.  It  is  a  very  commanding 
position,  and  overlooks  the  surrounding  country. 
During  the  late  war,  the  government  ships  Mace- 
donian, United  States,  and  Hornet,  which  were  in 
the  river,  lay  moored  here  for  a  length  of  time, 
and  their  guns  were  drawn  up  by  oxen  to  the  top 


'  i 


N. 


TRADING    COVE. 


259 


DCS,  and 
wks,  by 


nto  this 
,  is  seen 
nder  the 
his  Utile 
style,  a 
I  the  se- 
of  a  hiil 

his  town 
of  Com. 
habitants 

wich,  1 5 
1  several 
I    miles. 

ORWICH. 

lar  rock, 
the  river 
attacked 
itry  lies 
Hill,  on 
an  In- 
manding 
country. 
3s  Mace- 
were  in 
of  time, 
the  top 


of  tho  hill,  on  the  east  shore,  above  the  little  cove. 
A  smnll  battery  vas  also  constructed  on  the  litlle 
spur  projecting  from  the  hill  in  front.  3  or  4000 
militia  were  stationed  on  the  opposite  shore  for 
their  further  security. 

Massapeague  Voint,  just  above.  Here  the 
river  is  quite  narrow,  opening  northward  into  a 
smiill  lake. 

There  is  a  small  island  on  the  eastern  shore, 
on  which  is  a  stone  cottage,  built  by  the  soldiers 
for  a  poor  family  which  resided  here  during  the 
war.  It  lies  at  the  entrance  of  a  pretty  cove, 
which  makes  up  a  mile,  called  Kiali's  Cove.  Com- 
modore Decatur  brought  the  ships  up  here,  for 
still  greater  security  ag?iinst  the  British  cruising 
off  New-London  harbor.  Above  this  place,  the 
river  has  been  impeded  by  sand,  washed  down  by 
the  Shetucket  River,  and  attempts  have  been  made 
to  remedy  it  by  building  piers. 

Trading  Ccve^  1  mile  above,  is  a  handsome 
little  bay,  making  up  into  the  Indian  country,  and 
derived  its  name  from  the  barter  formerly  carried 
on  here  between  the  white  men  and  the  Moheagans. 
Uncas,  the  Sachem  of  Moheagan,  was  believed  to 
be  of  Pequod  descent,  but  in  a  state  of  successful 
revolt  at  the  time  the  English  became  acquainted 
with  him.  His  chief  residence  was  near  this  cove, 
now  the  centre  of  the  Indian  Reservation  ;  but  the 
burying  ground  of  the  royal  family  was  near  Nor- 
wich Landing  (which  is  in  sight  from  this  place.) 
He  had  conquered  the  country  as  far  north  as 
about  the  present  Massachuscits  line,  but  became 
an  early  friend  of  the  whites,  and  rendered  them 
important  services,  particularly  in  war,  as  did  hit 
successors,  the  later  Moheagan  Chiefs. 


r   r 


n 


ti 


h  m  ii 


r 


w  u 


'11 

'J  w 

! 


I:    f  I  ■ 


i    f.\ 


f\ '  i 


260       ROUTB    FROM    NEW-YORK    TO    BOSTOlf. 

Before  this  part  of  the  state  was  settled,  Uncas 
was  once  so  closely  besiej^ed  by  his  enemies  the 
Pequods,  that  he   siiil'ered  txiremely  from  a  scar- 


city ot  provisions,  and  was  rtditved  by  a  man  na- 
med Lelfingwell,  who  was  despatched  from  Con- 
necticut with  a  boat  h)aded  with  provisions.  In 
gratitude,  Uncus  gave  him  a  large  part  of  the  pre- 
sent town  of  Morwich  for  this  iniportant  service. 
There  is  a  rock  still  pointed  out  on  the  shore,  and 
called  Uncas'  Chair,  wh(Me  tlie  Sachem  is  said  to 
have  set  and  watched  the  arrival  of  his  friends. 

Fort  Hill  derived  its  name  from  a  small  stone 
fort,  erected  in  old  times  by  the  Indians.  The 
poor  remains  of  this  tribe  reside  on  the  lands  se- 
cured to  them  by  the  state  government,  and  live 
in  all  the  ignorance,  idleness,  and  thrifllessness 
common  to  Indians  in  this  part  of  the  country  : 
melancholy  testimonies  of  the  desjradation  to  which 
the  most  active  human  minds  may  sink  when  eve- 
ry impulse  to  exertion  has  been  stifled,  and  no 
new  incitement  extended. 

NORWICH  contains  three  villages,  of  which 
Chelsea  Landing  is  the  principal,  and  is  remark- 
able for  its  sini^id  ir  situation,  as  well  as  for  its 
appearance  of  business,  which  is  much  favored  by 
the  numerous  manufact(»ries  in  the  neighboring 
country.  The  Plain  is  about  a  mile  north,  and  a 
very  pleasant  place. 

On  the  way  thither  is  seen  the  Cove,  at  the  up- 
per end  of  which  are  the  Falls  of  Yantic,  which 
pours  over  a  ledge  of  granite  about  40  feet  high, 
and  supplies  several  manufactories  with  water. 
A  rock,  70  or  81)  feet  in  height,  overhangs  the 
stream,  whence  a  number  of  Narragansett  Indians 


! 


I,  XJncas 
Dies   the 
[1  a  scfcir- 
man   na- 
om  Con- 
DPS.     In 
the  pre- 
service. 
lore,  and 
}  said  to 
".ends, 
all  stone 
IS.     The 
lands  se- 
and  live 
filessness 
country  : 
to  which 
hen  eve- 
aud  no 

of  which 
remark- 
is  for  its 
vored  by 
ghboring 
th,  and  a 

[t  the  up- 
!c,  which 
2t  high, 
|h  water, 
langs  the 
It  Indians 


NORWICH. 


261 


once  precipitated  themselves  when  pursued  by  the 
Moheagans. 

The  Burying  Ground  of  the  Uncases  is  on  the 
elevated  b^»llk  north  of  the  Cove,  on  the  grounds 
of  Judjnre  Goddard.  There  are  stones  marking 
the  graves  of  numerous  members  of  the  royal 
family  of  the  Moheagans,  and  a  few  of  them  bear 
English  inscriptions.  The  family  is  now  extinct. 
Uncas,  the  old  friend  of  the  white  men,  is  buried 
here.  He  and  his  nation  were  the  only  steady 
allies  they  ever  foun*^  among  the  Indians,  steady 
and  powerful  enough  to  render  them  very  essen- 
tial service.  He  was  a  man  of  extraordinary  tal- 
ent,  and  w^ithal  extremely  politic;  but  he  refused 
to  join  the  general  insurrection  under  King  Philip 
in  1675.  This  plain  was  the  principal  summer 
residence  of  the  Moheagans, 

The  FloMuel  Factory  is  14G  feetby  40, 5  stories 
high,  with  a  bleaching  house,  and  dying  house, 
and  makes  5000  yards  a  week.  There  are  also 
the  Carpet^  Pottery,  Paper,  and  other  factories. 

The  Cotton  Many  factory  \^  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Yantic,  and  the  suiu  expended  in  buildings  and 
machinery  very  great. 

About  a  million  ai»d  a  half  of  dollars  have  been 
invested  here.  1600  bales  of  cotton  were  manu- 
factured annually,  producing  more  than  a  million 
yards  of  cloth  ;  5  or  (iOO  tons  of  iron  made  into 
nails,  nail-rods,  &;c.  and  150  or  200  tons  of  cast- 
ings made  from  pig  iron.  10,000  reams  of  paper 
have  been  made  in  a  year,  besides  machinery, 
linseed  oil,  &c.  Here  are  two  school-houses  and 
two  churches. 

CanaL     Surveys  were  made  in  1825  for  a  Canal 

22 


»:  m. 


i 


m^        '/"It" 


■1 


frf.l 


282 


ROUTE   FROM   NEW-YORK  TO  BOSTON. 


to  run  from  Norwich  parrellc!  to  Connecticut  Ri- 
ver, up  the  Quinchiiugh  River  to  Massachusetts. 
The  supply  of  water  is  consiihneil  abundant  at  all 
seasons,  and  the  tract  of  country  through  which 
it  is  to  pass  extretnrly  favoiable.  It  is  to  pass 
through  Springheld,  Pahri  .  estern,  Brookfield, 

Sturbridge,  Southbridgc,  and  Dudley,  to  the 
Quinebaugh. 

Road  from  Norwich  to  Providence. 

Thri  road  follows  the  course;  of  the  Quinebaugh 
River  for  some  distance,  through  a  hilly  tract  of 
country,  and  near  a  fine  cataract  in  that  stream. 
At  tho  distance  of  1^  miles  from  Norwich,  it 
passes 

Sachem's  Field.  This  is  an  elevated  plain,  on 
which  a  battle  was  fought  in  the  year  1643,  be- 
tween about  900  iNarragansetts,  (who  inhabited 
Rhode  Island,)  and  500  or  600  Moheagans.  The 
Sachem  of  the  former,  Miantonimo,  intending  to 
chastise  Uncas  for  his  adherence  to  the  English, 
secretly  advanced  into  his  country  with  an  army; 
but  Uncas  was  aware  of  his  approach,  and  met  him 
on  this  plain  where  both  parties  halted.  Uncas 
stepped  forward  alone,  and  challenged  Miantoni- 
mo to  decide  the  quarrel  single  handed.  This,  as 
as  he  expected,  was  refused  ;  and  while  his  ene- 
mies  were  not  prepared,  he  gave  a  signal  by.  fall- 
ing down,  when  his  men  instantly  sat  up  a  yell, 
discharged  their  arrows,  and  rushed  forward.  The 
Narragansetts  fled,  and  many  of  them  were  killed. 
Uncas  captured  Miantonimo  himself,  but  the 
haughty  Indian  would  not  ask  for  quarter  nor 
speak  a  word.  He  was  taken  to  Hartford,  and 
after  a  trial,  was  delivered  to  Uncas  for  execution. 


NEWPORT. 


263 


:icut  Ui- 
:husetts. 
int  at  all 
h  which 

to  pass 
ooklield, 

to    the 

ICE. 

inebaugh 
'  tract  of 
t  stream, 
•wich,   it 

plain,  on 
643,  be- 
inhabited 
hs.     The 
nding  to 
English, 
in  army; 
met  him 
Uncas 
liantoni- 
This,  as 
his  ene- 
by-  fall- 
p  a  yell, 
ril.    The 
•e  killed, 
but   the 
rter  nor 
ford,  and 
xecution. 


He  was  brought  buck  to  this  place,  and  while 
marching  across  the  field  was  tomahawked  on  a 
spot  a  little  east  of  the  road,  where  a  hrap  of  stcmes 
for  muny  yi^ars  marked  the  place  of  his  burial. 

JeweWs  City  is  a  small  manufacturing  place,  7 
miles  from  Norwich. 

Plainfield  is  a  pleasant  village;  the  inn  is 
large  and  good,  and  overlooks  a  fertile  plain, 
through  which  is  the  route  of  the  proposed  canal 
to  Brook  field,  Mass. 

On  crossinir  the  line  to  Rhode  Island,  the  coun- 
try  becomes  uninteresting.  There  are  no  villages 
deserving  of  the  name,  and  there  is  nothing  worthy 
of  particular  notice,  except  one  or  two  small  man- 
ufactories. 

Providence.     See  pas^e  266. 

JNEWPOllT. 

This  place  possesses  one  of  the  best  harbors  in 
the  United  States.  The  entrance  is  guarded  by 
the  Dumplings  Fort  and  Fort  Adams;  and  the 
scenery  about  it  is  agreeable. 

Fort  Adams^  on  Brenton's  Point,  is  o  le  of  the 
most  important  fortresses  in  the  great  plan  of  coast 
defences,  which  have  been  for  some  years  in  the 
progress  of  construction.  It  was  to  cost,  on  an 
estimate,  ,^170,000,  and  to  embrace  an  extent  of 
l30  acres.  A  range  of  i:uns  is  to  line  the  shore 
towards  the  west,  as  far  down  as  the  first  rising 
ground.  The  outer  wall  will  be  40  feet  in  height, 
and  extend  nearly  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  enclos- 
ing about  19  acres.  The  works  will  mount  150 
cannon,  in  connexion  with  the  redoubt  on  a  neigh- 
boring hill.  The  foundations  and  trenches  have 
been  cut  into  rock  or  hard  clay,  with  a  range  of 
subterranean  galleries. 


264 


ROUTE  FKOM  NEW-YORK  TO  BOSTON. 


Other  works,  in  connexion  with  Fort  Adnms, 
are  pro[)ose(l  on  the  ()[)j)nHitc  shore,  th(^  DuMijiIiiitr 
Islands,  &c.  which  would  re  nder  ihc  [)(nt  sj*ciirc 
as  the  principal  rendezvouri  (or  our  navy  north  of 
the  Chesapeake.  If  not  entirely  tjcciire  from  a 
land  attack,  the  nei<riihorin^  country  would  soon 
afford  it  ahundant  relief.  This  fort  is  thought  not 
inferior,  either  in  plan  or  iniportaiH^e,  to  any  in  the 
United  States,  unless  Fort  ('alhoun. 

Fort  Wolcott  is  on  Goat  Island,  opposite  the 
town. 

Newport  extends  ahout  a  mile  along  the  shore. 
The  situation  has  many  advantages;  and  this  with 
the  cheapness  of  rent  has  hegun  to  render  it  the 
temporary  abode  of  many  strangers  during  the 
warm  season. 

The  WindmiUt  an  old  stone  tower  on  the  top  of 
the  hill,  is  a  conspicuous  object,  although  long 
disused.  There  are  four  churches  visible  ;  and  the 
Library,  a  small  but  neat  and  correct  specimen  of 
architecture  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  is  wor- 
thy of  attention. 

The  Poor  House  is  on  Coaster's  Harbor  Island, 
about  a  mile  above  the  town,  which  contains  80 
acres.  The  building  is  three  stories  high,  o(  stone, 
and  contains  50  or  60  poor.  Those  who  are  able, 
work  on  the  land,  and  others  at  different  manufac- 
tures ;  but  most  of  them  are  women,  and  some 
superannuated.  The  keeper  receives  fifty  cents  a 
week  for  the  board  of  each,  which  is  paid  by  the 
town,  to  which  the  products  of  the  labor  are  cre- 
dited. Since  this  establishment  has  been  formed, 
the  expenses  of  the  poor  to  the  town  have  been 
reduced  one  half. 


NEWrORT. 


265 


Adams, 

t  Hj'Ciirc 
north  of 
from  u 
lid  soon 
uglit  not 
ny  in  the 

3site  the 

\e  shore, 
this  with 
Jer  it  the 
iring  the 

he  top  of 
jgh  long 
;  and  the 
■cimcn  of 
is  wor- 

r  Island, 
Uains  80 
o(  stone, 
are  able, 
nanufac- 
nd  some 
y  cents  a 
1  by  the 
arc  cre- 
formed, 
ave  been 


The  bench  beljind  the  town,  like  the  whole  cir- 
cuit of  the  city  on  tlw^  land  iik',  was  defended  by 
a  line  of  troops,  batteries,  &.c.  during  the  posses- 
sion of  it  by  the;  Knolish  in  the  rt!Volulionary  war; 
and  the  opposite  high  grounds  were  occupied  by 
the  American  army,  whose  head-(juarters  were  on 
Taumony  hill,  a  mile  and  a  half,  or  thereabouts, 
from  the  town;  an  elcvatii)n  which  affords  an  ex- 
tensive view  on  every  side. 

During  the  possession  of  the  place  by  the  ene- 
my, the  trees,  as  well  as  about  9iK)  houses,  were 
cut  down  for  fuel  ;  and  althoujrh  the  island  is  ad- 
mirably  calculated  for  the  growth  of  fruit  trees, 
and  was,  before  that  period,  quite  covered  with 
the  finest  orchards,  it  is  now  so  divested  of  trees 
of  every  description,  as  to  appear  remarkably  na- 
ked and  monotonous  for  an  American  scene.  The 
fertility  of  the  ground,  and  the  excellence  of  the 
crops,  however,  as  well  as  the  neatness  and  preci- 
sion with  which  the  fields  are  cultivated,  and  re- 
gularly divided  by  fine  storie  walls,  present  a  pic- 
ture of  agricultural  beauty  rarely  paralelled  in  the 
United  States.  The  island,  14  miles  long,  and  not 
3  wide,  contained  in  1827  more  than  30,000  sheep. 

Fort  Green  is  a  little  battery  erected  on  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  about  a  mile  above  the  town. 

Mount  Hope^  famous  as  the  ancient  royal  resi- 
dence of  the  Wampanoag  Indians,  and  particular- 
ly as  the  abode  of  King  Philip,  and  the  scene  of 
his  death,  is  seen  from  a  (ew  miles  beyond  New- 
port, towards  the  north  east.  It  rises  in  Warren, 
on  the  shore  of  an  arm  of  the  bay,  and  will  be  par- 
ticularly described  hereafter.  The  view  of  it  is 
soon  afterward  cut  off  by  the  intervention  oi  Pru- 

22* 


'||{ 


I 


-lU 


r 

'I 
<  <i 


Ll  1 


'  t,' 


4". 


I  )■'■'« 


2f>6 


ROUTE  FROM  NeW-YORK  TO  BoSTOK. 


I 


MP) 


I 

i 

I: 


Si.: 


dence  Island^  which  is  about  five  miles  in  length, 
and  presents  t\\e  nairic  fertile  soil  and  gently  swell- 
ing surface  as  Rhode  Island.  The  inhabitants  are 
few,  as  are  those  of  Patience  and  Hope,  islands  of 
a  nnuch  smaller  size.  Despair  is  a  cluster  of  rocks 
on  the  left,  near  the  island  of  Hope,  the  north  end 
of  whicli  is  20  miles  from  Provid(*nce« 

An  cxteiisive  mine  of  anthracite,  or  incombusti- 
ble coal,  was  opened  a  few  years  since  near  the 
north  end  of  the  island,  in  Portsmouth,  about  two 
miles  from  Bristol  Ferry. 

The  vein  is  about  4200  feet  one  way,  115  ano- 
ther, and  4  feet  in  thickness.  It  lies  on  an  inclined 
plane;  and  thre3  other  veins  are  supposed  to  be 
of  equal  extent.  The  excavations  are  liable  to  be 
flooded  in  wet  weather,  by  which  the  working  has 
been  a  good  deal  impeded. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This  is  the  second  city  in  New-England,  both  in 
population,  wealth,  and  beauty*  It  contained  in 
1830,  16,833  inhabitants,  and  is  beautifully  as  well 
as  advantageously  situated  at  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion, on  the  river  of  the  same  name.  It  contains 
several  handsome  churches,  a  theatre,  an  arcade, 
(on  Westminster-street,)  and  many  fine  houses. 

In  boring  the  earth  in  this  town,  in  1828,  from 
the  end  of  the  earth,  the  auger  passed  through  the 
artificial  soil — -then  through  a  stratum  of  mud — 
then  through  bog  meadow,  containing  good  peat- 
then  through  sand  pebbles  atid  quartz  gravel.  At 
this  point  water  impregnated  with  copperas  and 
arsenic  broke  forth;  next  struck  a  vineyard  and 
drew  up  vines,  grapes,  graj)e  seeds,  leaves,  acorns, 
hazleuutSy  pine  burs,  and  seeds  of  unknown  fruits, 


;!!i';* 


1  length, 
lly  swell- 
itants  are 
slands  of 
'  of  rocks 
lorth  end 

iombusti- 
near  the 
ibout  two 

ll5  ano- 
n  inclined 
sf!(l  to  be 
able  to  be 
jrkinghas 


d.  both  in 
tained  in 
Iv  as  well 
f  naviga- 
contains 
arcade, 
ouses. 
•28,  from 
ouffhthe 
f  mud — 
d  peat — 
vel.  At 
eras  and 
ard  and 
,  acorns, 
n  fruits, 


Taunton. 


^67 


together  with  pure  water.  This  was  35  feet  beloW 
the  bed  of  the  river  ! 

Brown  University  is  built  on  the  summit  of  a 
high  hill,  the  ascent  to  whicb  is  not  very  easy,  al- 
though it  is  laid  out  in  street?,  decorated  with 
some  of  the  finest  houses  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try, dispersed  among  spacious  gavtlcns,  and  ming^ 
ling  the  delights  of  the  country  with  the  splendour 
of  a  citv.  There  are  two  brick  buildinos  belong* 
ing  to  this  institution,  which  command  a  fine 
prospect. 

The  town  was  settled  by  Roger  Williams,  who 
left  the  older  colonies  in  consequence  of  a  disa- 
greement in  religious  doctrines.  He  built  his 
house  on  the  shore,  near  the  present  E;  iscopal 
church.  Many  of  the  society  of  Quakers  or  Friends 
afterward  joined  him,  whose  descendants  form  a 
large  share  of  the  population  of  the  stale. 

The  Academy  is  a  large  institution,  near  the 
College,  established  by  the  Friends. 

Th*"  schools  of  Rhode  Island  were  in  a  very  low 
condition  from  the  earliest  times  until  1828,  when 
^10,000  annually  was  appropriated  to  them,  and 
the  31  towns  were  allowed  to  double  their  propor- 
tion by  a  tax,  which  they  have  done.  In  1831, 
$21,490  was  expended  :  there  were  323  schools, 
and  17,034  children  taught.  There  are  several 
academies,  &c.,  the  principal  of  which  is  the 
Friends'  Boardinji:  School  at  Providence,  estab- 
lished  by  the  Yearly  Meeting  of  New-England, 
directed  bv  Professor  Griscom,  with  1 17  male  and 
70  female  pupils. 

[Taitnton,  32  miles  from  Boston,  next  above 
Dighton.  A  great  quantity  of  cotton  is  manufac- 
tured here,  and  there  are  extensive  works  in  iron. 


'] 


.1' 


■  i-iti 


w 


268 


ROUTE  FROM  NEW-YORK  TO  BOSTON. 


The  power  is  supplied  by  five  dams  on  the  west 
branch  of  Taunton  river.  The  highest  manufac- 
tories of  the  river  are  built  of  wood  ;  the  next  of 
stone;  the  third  of  brick.  There  are  two  brick 
dams ;  and  the  printing  establishment  is  among 
the  last.  There  is  also  a  manufactory  of  Britannia 
ware,  &c. 

Sampson's  Hotels,  at  Marlborough  Ponds,  is  a 
pleasant  resort,  half  way  to  New-Bedford.] 

Manufactories  in  New-England.  There  were 
said  to  be  in  1828,  about  400  buildings  in  this  sec- 
tion of  the  United  States,  devoted  to  the  spinning, 
weaving,  and  printing  of  cotton  ;  135  for  Mas- 
sachusetts;  110  for  Rhode  Island;  80  for  Con- 
necticut; 60  for  New-Hampshire  ;  15  for  Maine  ; 
10  for  Vermont,  They  were  supposed  to  contain 
on  an  average  700  spindles  :  which  gives  a  total  of 
280,000.  They  worked  perhaps  280  days  in  a 
year,  and  used  140  lbs.  of  raw  cotton  to  each 
spindle  ;  which  would  give  a  total  of  39,200,000 
lbs.,  or  98,000  bales.  In  one  third  of  the  manu- 
factories the  weaving  was  done  by  power  looms  ; 
in  one  third  by  hand  ;  and  the  others  sent  their 
yarn  to  the  middle  and  southern  states,  where  it 
was  woven  by  hand  under  contractors,  or  in  families. 

Not  more  than  275  cotton  manufactories  were 
supposed  to  be  in  operation  in  the  remaining  parts 
of  the  United  States. 

Blackstone  Canal,  which  was  completed  in 
1828,  and  extends  to  Worcester,  Mass.  runs  along 
the  course  of  the  Blackstone  River  for  several 
miles.  That  stream  is  seen  on  leiving  Providence, 
and  lies  west  of  the  road  to  Boston.  The  canal  is 
45  miles  long,  18  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  34 


1>AWTUCKET. 


269 


r  I 
1  "I 


e  west 
anufac- 
next  of 
)  brick 
among 
•itannia 

is,  is  a 

1 

re  were 
his  sec- 
)i  lining, 
jr  Mas- 
or  Con- 
Maine  ; 
contain 
.  total  of 
ys  in  a 
,o  each 
300,000 
i  manii- 

looms  ; 

t  their 

here  it 
amilies. 
es  were 

g  parts 

leted  in 
IS  along 

several 
ridence, 
icanal  is 

and  34 


feet  at  the  surface.  There  are  48  locks,  all  bnilt 
of  stone,  whirh  overcome  n  rise  ami  fall  of  150 
feet.  The  size  of  the  locks  is  82  feet  in  length, 
and  10  in  breadth  ;  and  the  cost  of  the  whole  work 
was  about  ,$550,000.  The  water  is  chiefly  derived 
from  the  Blackstone  river  ;  but  there  are  large 
ponds  at  different  parts  of  the  route,  which  can  be 
drawn  upon  at  any  time. 

The  road  between  Providence  and  Pawtucket, 
4  miles,  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  United  States; 
as  the  law  requires  that  all  the  income  above  10 
per  cent,  shall  be  devoted  to  repairs;  and  the  tra- 
velling is  very  great.  It  is  hard  and  smooth,  and 
is  to  be  furnished  with  a  convenient  side-walk  the 
whole  distance. 

Pawtucket  is  one  of  the  largest  manufacturing 
places  in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  banks  of 
the  river  are  varied  and  somewhat  romantic;  while 
the  fall,  which  is  under  the  bridge,  furnishes  a 
most  valuable  water  power.  Cotton  is  principally 
manufactured  here,  though  there  is  machinery  de- 
voted to  other  purposes.  The  first  spinning  by 
machinery  in  this  country  was  done  on  a  very 
small  machine  in  J  785,  in  Providence. 

Attleborough,  The  inn  stands  on  the  spot  once 
occupied  by  a  block  house,  built  on  the  frontier  of 
the  Indian  country  before  Philip's  war.  Opposite 
is  an  old  burying  ground,  which  contains  the  body 
of  the  first  man  killed  here  by  the  savages.  The 
largest  button  manufactory  in  the  United  States  is 
in  this  town. 

Walpole,  Here  the  stage  coaches  usually  stop 
to  dine  or  breakfast. 

Dedham,  10  miles  from  Boston,  is  a  large  and 


d.  ^  * 


■fv 


1     • 


I 


'■  i 


i' 


■U4'   •■ 


^70 


ROUTE  PROM  NEW-YORK  TO  BOSTON. 


t  I 


f,  ■ 


i 


PluJi 


beautiful  village,  with  regular  and  well  built  streets, 
and  some  quite  elegant  houses.  Fisher  Ames  liV" 
ed  in  the  second  house  on  the  left  hand,  as  you 
enter  the  village. 

[Blue  Hills,  This  is  a  pleasant  retreat,  about 
7  miles  from  the  city  of  Boston,  and  much  resorted 
to  in  the  summer  season;  as  a  large  house  of  en- 
tertainment has  been  erected  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain,  whence  the  place  derives  its  name;  and 
the  summit,  which  is  considered  800  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  ocean,  commands  a  fine  and  exten- 
sive view.  A  small  house  has  also  been  built  on 
the  top,  where  the  view  is  the  finest,  for  the  tem- 
porary repose  and  supply  of  visiters.  On  the 
northern  side,  the  view  embraces,  in  a  clear  day, 
the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont,  and  the  White 
Mountains  in  New-Hampshire,  with  a  wide  extent 
of  country  between  :  Nahant,  and  in  general,  all 
Boston  Bny,  is  seen  eastvvardly,  and  near  at  hand.] 

The  hills  are  seen  on  the  right  from  the  road,  a 
few  miles  south  of  Boston. 

Quincy  Railway.  This  is  the  first  work  of  the 
kind  which  was  constructed  in  the  United  States. 
It  is  3  miles  long,  and  leads  from  the  quarries  of 
granite  to  navigable  water,  for  the  transportation 
of  stone  to  Boston.  The  descent  from  the  com- 
mencement to  the  wharf  is  B(5  feet.  This  railway  was 
opened  for  use  on  the  16ih  September,  1 826,  and  has 
been  sinoe  constantly  used  for  the  transportation  of 
granite.  One  horse  has  drawn  22  tons,  including 
the  weight  of  the  two  wagons,  from  the  quarry 
down  to  the  wharf;  but  the  ordinary  load  of  a  horse 
is  from  12  to  15  tons. 

Roxbury,  On  the  neck  which  leads  to  Boston, 
we  pass  the  remains  of  the  entrenchments  thrown 


Mi 


CITY  OF  BOSTON. 


je?t 


streets, 
[les  liV" 
as  you 


'» 


about 
esorted 
!  of  en- 

of  the 
rie ;  and 
t  above 
]  exten- 
built  on 
he  lem- 
On    the 
Bar  day, 
5  White 
e  extent 
eral,  all 
t  hand.] 
;  road,  a 

k  of  the 
States, 
irries  of 
ortation 
e  com- 
vay  was 
and  has 
ation  of 
eluding 
quarry 
a  horse 

Boston, 
I  thrown 


tip  by  General  Washington,  in  1776,  to  shut  the 
British  troops  up  in  the  town  ;  and  a  little  beyond 
them  is  the  place  where  General  Gage  previously 
drew  up  his  line  across,  to  command  the  commu- 
nication between  it  and  the  country.  The  coun- 
try on  both  sides  retains  marks  of  the  American 
forts,  redoubts,  &c.,  and  Dorchester  Heights  on 
the  east  are  crowned  with  the  works  thrown  up 
by  Washington,  which  commanded  Boston  and 
the  anchorage ;  and  forced  the  enemy  to  evacuate 
the  place.  Embarking  here  in  their  fleet,  they 
went  around  to  Long  Island,  and  soon  after  enter-» 
ed  New- York. 

BOSTON. 

Hotels*  Tremont  House.*  The  Exchange. 
Marlborough  Hotel,  &c. 

Boston  contains  an  uncommon  proportion  of 
fine  buildings,  particularly  private  residences:  for 
it  not  only  possesses  much  wealth,  but  also  much 
taste  and  public  spirit.  The  finest  buildings  are  of 
whitish  granite,  brought  from  the  shores  of  the 
Merrimack  River,  being  found  in  abundance  at 
diflferent  places,  from  Chelmsford  to  Concord, N.H. 
It  is  transported  to  Boston  by  the  Middlesex  canal, 
and  is  not  only  beautiful  and  lasting,  but  obtained 
at  a  moderate  price.  It  is  found  very  durable 
when  exposed  only  to  the  elements  ;  but  fire  soon 
disintegrates  and  ruins  it.  The  Quincy  granite  is 
also  excellent. 

The  Athenosum,    Under  the  patronage  of  weal- 

*  Tremont  House  is  the  most  splendid  hotel  in  tlie  United  States.  It 
makes  a  fine  appearance,  contains  180  rooms,  and  is  conducted  on  an  ex- 
cellent pl.in.  A  part  of  the  establishment  is  appropriated  to  private  par- 
ties and  f:imili'  s,  and  has  a  distinct  access,  ti)rouf,'h  a  difTercut  street,  with 
no  communication  with  the  main  body  c^'the  building. 


It 


^y.u 


;*  ■  ti 


272 


CITY  OF  BOSTON 


■  ix 


i:.i 


i 


thy  and  generous  friends  of  the  arts  and  sciences, 
for  whom  Boston  has  long  been  conspicuous,  this 
va^dable  collection  of  books,  coins,  and  medals,  has 
hy  rapid  degrees  risen  to  a  grade  of  eminence 
among  the  libraries  of  tlie  country.  In  addition 
to  the  nun^'^rous  and  voluminous  works  before  in 
the  possession  of  the  institution,  subscriptions 
have  been  made  within  a  few  years  to  procure 
complete  copies  of  the  transactions  of  the  Koyal 
Societies  aad  Academies  of  Sciences  in  London, 
Edinburgh,  Dublin,  Paris,  Petersburg,  Berlin,  Tu- 
rin, Gottingen,  Stockholm,  Copenhagen,  Madrid, 
and  Lisbon.  Any  person,  by  paying  SIO  a  year, 
may  enjoy  the  liberty  of  reading  books  in  the 
rooms  of  this  institution  ;  but  only  proprietors 
and  life  subscribers  have  the  privilege  of  taking 
them  away.  The  library  however  is  free  to  stran- 
gers introduced  by  proprietors,  and  may  then  be 
visited  by  them  akne  at  any  time.  Most  of  the 
valuable  periodical  magazines  of  Europe  are  regu- 
larly received;  as  well  as  those  of  the  United 
States,  and  newspapers  from  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. The  Exhibition  and  Lecture  rooms  are  in  a 
building  in  the  rear.  The  Academy  of  Arts  and 
Sciences  have  a  room  on  the  first  floor,  and  there 
is  a  picture  gallery  on  the  second. 

The  Market  is  constructed  of  granite,  and  is  of 
the  following  dimensions :  a  centre  building  74J 
feet  by  55,  with  wings,  extending  in  all  53(i  feet, 
with  a  fine  facade  at  each  end,  with  granite  co- 
lumns of  single  pieces,  21  feet  high,  and  weighing 
each  14  or  15  tons;  a  row  of  granite  buildings  on 
each  side,  4  stories  high,  for  stores,  more  than 
500  feet. 


CITY  OF    BOSTON. 


273 


-I 


ciences, 
Diis,  ihis 
dais,  has 
minence 
addition 
before  in 
criptions 
procure 
le  Koyal 
London, 
3rlin,  Tu- 
,  Madrid, 
0  a  year, 
s   in    the 
roprietors 
of  taking 
;  to  stran- 
kr  then  be 
ost  of  the 
are  regu- 
e  United 
the  coun- 
s  are  in  a 
Arts  and 
and  there 

and  is  of 
Iding  ni 
536  feet, 
:anite  co- 
weighing 
ildings  on 
iore  than 


In  State-street  are  the  Banks,  Insurance  Offices, 
and  'Change. 

The  Common  is  a  fine  piece  of  ground,  on  the 
south-western  side  of  the  city,  and  one  of  its  great- 
est ornaments.  The  surface  is  agreeably  varied 
by  a  few  gentle  undulations,  and  it  is  decorated 
with  rows  of  handsome  dwelling  houses  on  two 
sides,  while  on  the  third  it  is  bounded  by  the  bay 
of  Charles  River,  and  affords  an  extensive  view  in 
that  direction,  embracing  a  tract  of  cultivated  hilly 
country. 

The  State  House  is  the  principal  object  seen 
in  approaching  the  city,  and  stands  on  a  con- 
siderable eminence  at  the  north  side  of  the  Com- 
mon. It  has  a  double  range  of  columns  in  front 
of  the  main  building,  and  a  large  dome  on  the 
top,  to  which  a  somewhat  intricate  staircase 
leads,  affording  the  most  extensive  view  of  Bos- 
ton and  the  surrounding  country  which  is  to  be 
found. 

Chantrey^s  Statue  of  Washington.  In  this 
beautiful  specimen  of  the  genius  and  skill  of  the 
greatest  British  sculptor,  Boston  possesses  a  trea- 
sure. It  was  finished  and  sent  to  America  in  1 8*27, 
and  a  nev/  apartment  was  constructed  for  its  recep- 
tion, adjoining  the  Doric  Hall  in  the  State  House.. 
The  total  expense  of  the  statue  and  building 
amounted  to  about  $16,000.  The  sculptor  receiv- 
ed of  this  $10,000.  The  entrance  from  the  Hall 
into  the  edifice  is  through  arched  passages,  which 
af!brd  the  visiter  a  full  view  in  approaching  and 
from  various  points. 

The  hills  at  Dorchester,  Roxbury,  Brighton, 

23 


i 


Ml 


■'M 


m 


iiii 


■m 


274 


CITY    OF    BOSTON. 


Cambridge,  Cliariestown,*  &c,  together  with  the 
numerous  islands  which  protect  the  harbor,  form 
an  amphitheatre,  very  regular  and  beautiful,  when 
seen  from  the  top  of  the  State  House ;  and  the 
villages  which  are  seen  in  every  direction,  almost 
entirely  line  the  shore. 

The  Navy  Yard,  at  Charlestown,  encloses  60 
acres,  and  enjoys  many  advantages  in  its  situation.. 
It  has  a  high  stone  wall  on  the  north  ;  and  near 
the  water  stand  a  large  warehouse  of  brick,  seve- 
ral arsenals,  magazines  of  stores,  the  residence  of 
the  superintendent,  and  three  very  large  ship- 
houses,  each  large  enough  to  hold  a  hundred-gun 
vessel,  with  the  stages,  6i.c»  The  Dry  Dock  is 
very  large.  The  foundation  is  made  with  piles, 
driven  three  feet  apart,  supporting  layers  of  timber, 
plank,  and  stone.  The  stone  work  v/iil  amount  to 
about  500,000  cubic  feet. 

Gen.  Gage,  in  177.^,  ran  a  breastwork  across 
Roxbury  neck,  which  is  very  narrow,  in  order  tQ 
command  the  only  land  communication  with  the 
neighboring  country,  and  then  continued  those  acts 
of  oppression  upon  the  people^  which  exasperated 
the  colonies  so  much  against  him.  Contributions 
v;ere  sent  in  for  their  relief  from  all  parts  of  the 
colonies. 

On  the  l7th  of  June,  1775,  while  the  forces  which 
had  repaired  to  this  threatened  scene  had  their 
head-quarters  at  Cambridge,  a  body  of  men,  prin- 
cipally formed  of  detachments  from  Massachusetts 
and  New-Hampshire  regiments,  having  fortified 
themselves  on  13reed's  Hill,  (an  eminence  of  about 

*  At  Charlestown  is  the  State  Prison,  which  has  lately  been  greatly  im- 
proved, ou  the  best  plaus. 


CITY    OF    BOSTON. 


275 


ith  the 
r,  form 
,  wheQ 
ind  the 
almost 

3ses  60 
tuation.. 
id  near 
k,  seve- 
lence  of 
re  ship- 
Ired-gun 
Dock  is 
th  piles, 
f  timber, 
nount  to 

c  across 
order  tQ 
ivith  the 

ose  acts 
operated 

ibiitions 
ts  of  the 

les  which 

lad  their 

jeii,  prin- 

ichusetts 

fortified 

of  about 

greatly  im- 


70  feet,  behind  Charlestown,)  manfully  disputed 
the  ground  with  the  British  troops  sent  over  from 
Boston  to  occupy  it.  The  loss  was  great  on  both 
sides,  particularly  on  that  of  the  assailants,  who 
were  driven  back  in  three  attacks.  The  boldness 
of  these  raw  troops,  and  the  success  with  which 
they  so  long  withstood  the  charges  of  the  regulars, 
were  of  the  utmost  use,  by  encouraging  the  coun- 
try, and  by  convincing  the  EnglissJi  that  they  were 
fighting  a  powerful  foe.  The  battle  usually  goes  by 
the  name  of  Bunker's  Hill;  but  should,  in  strict 
propriety,  be  called  after  Breed's  Hill,  as  the  latter 
is  a  distinct  eminence,  although,  perhaps,  a  spur 
from  the  former.    \ 

The  British  landed  near  a  point,  just  beyond 
where  the  navy  yard  is  now  seen  ;  and  the  Ameri- 
can defences  consisted  of  a  small  earth  redoubt  on 
the  top  of  Breed's  Hill,  and  a  double  rail  fence, 
stuffed  with  new  hay,  extending  from  it  to  the  wa- 
ter. Some  remains  of^these  works  are  still  to  be 
traced.  A  British  sloop  of  war  lay,  during  the 
action,  in  Mystic  River,  beyond  the  navy  yard,  and 
kept  up  a  cross  fire  upon  the  low  neck,  which  con* 
nects  the  peninsula  of  Charlestovvn  with  the  main- 
land. 

The  17th  of  June,  1825,  the  fiftieth  anniversary 
of  this  battle,  was  commemorated  with  very  ap- 
propriate ceremonies  ;  and  the  corner  stone  of  a 
monument  was  laid  in  an  angle  of  the  old  redoubt, 
on  Breed's  Hill,  with  Masonic  ceremonies.  A  large 
number  of  Revolutionary  officers  and  soldiers  as- 
sembled ;  and  the  monument  is  to  be  erected  at 
the  expense  of  piivate  contributions. 

Bunker  Hill  Monument,     The  base  (a  mass  of 


(■• 


It 


y 


ill   '^ 


276 


CITY  OF   BOSTON* 


m 


14,000  tons  weight,)  is  laid  13  fret  deep,  and  lidsl 
six  courses  of  stone  to  the  surface — t()e  first  of 
which  is  50  feet  on  each  side.  Above  this  a  pyra- 
midal obelisk,  i^O  feet  square,  is  to  rise  tapering, 
2l3  feet  4  inches  on  the  ground,  and  to  be  15  at  the 
top.  It  will  be  composed  of  80  courses  of  stone, 
each  2  feet  8  inches  thick.  A  winding  stone  stair- 
case in  the  inside  will  lead  to  the  suninnt,  whence 
the  view  will  be  fine  and  highly  interesting.  The 
whole  is  to  be  built  of  granite  from  Quincy.  The 
largest  block  in  it  is  said  to  be  of  the  following  di- 
mensions :  1 1  feet  long,  5  broad,  2  feet  8  inches 
high,  with  a  weight  of  ten  tons. 

After  the  battle  of  Bunker's  Hill,  the  Continent- 
al troops  were  drawn  in  a^more  complete  line 
around  the  town  of  Boston ;  and  numerous  in- 
trenchments  may  still  be  traced  out  on  most  of  the 
hills  in  the  vicinity  :  but  it  was  not  till  Gen.  Wash- 
ington succeeded  in  occupyingDorchester  Heights, 
which  command  the  harbor  and  town  from  the 
south-east,  that  the  British  embarked  in  their  ships, 
and  evacuated  the  place. 

Dorchester  Heights  were  occupied  on  the  night 
of  March  4,  1 770.  Eight  hundred  inen  formed  the 
van  ;  then  followjed  carriages,  and  1200  pioneers 
under  Gen.  Thomas,  300  casts  of  fascines  and  ga- 
bions, and  guns  in  the  rear.  Two  forts  were  form- 
ed by  10  at  night,  one  towards  the  city,  and  the 
other  towards  Castle  Island.  Preparations  were 
made  for  an  attack  by  the  British,  and  for  defence 
by  the  Americans  ;  but  the  weather  prevented  the 
design  of  the  former,  wlio  consisted  of  10,000,  and 
they  embarked  for  New-York.  The  town  was  pil- 
laged, 9nd  1500  loyalists  removed.     It  was  evacu- 


CITY    O*    BOSTON. 


277 


■■] 


ind  bftiJ 
firat  of 
a  pyra- 
pering, 
5  at  the 
f  stone, 
ne  stair- 
whence 
T.  The 
I,    The 


wing  di- 
J  inches 

jntinent- 
lete  line 
roas  in- 
)St  of  the 
n.  Wash- 
Heights, 
rom  the 
eir  ships, 

Lhe  night 
Irmed  the 
pioneers 
and  ga- 
re  form- 
and    the 
us  were 
defence 
nted  the 
,000,  and 
was  pil- 
,s  evaci\- 


aled  and  possessed,  March  17:  ammunition,  &lc, 
being  left  by  tiie  Britisih. 

The  Massachusetts  General  Hospital  is  near  the 
Charleslown  Biidge. 

Bridges,  Some  of  the  most  sM*ilvini>-  objects  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Boston,  are  the  bridges  which 
lead  from  it  to  various  points.  There  are  no  h.'ss 
than  five  principal  ones,  besides  several  branches. 
The  expense  at  which  they  have  been  constructed 
and  are  kept  in  repair  is  very  great,  and  they  fur- 
nijsh  great  facilities  for  strangers  desirous  of  ma- 
king excursions  to  the  surrounding  country. 

Education,  Schools  have  existed  in  New-Eng- 
land from  early  tin||s,  being  supported  by  law  and 
free  to  all  classes.  %  law  was  passed  by  the  col- 
ony of  Massachusetts  in  16 —  that  a  school  should 
be  kept  six  months  in  the  year,  in  every  town  or 
district  of  50  families,  (or  if  several  schools  some- 
thiTg  equivalent  to  6  months  instruction  ;)  in  those 
of  100  families,  12  months;  150  families,  18 
months  ;  and  that  the  towns  shall  raise  bv  tax  the 
funds  necessary  for  their  support.  A  committee 
of  3,  5,  or  7  men  superintends  the  schools  in  each 
town.  About  j^pne  person  out  of  3J  in  the  state 
attends  a  publfe  or  private  school ;  and  in  1832 
only  ten  persons  were  found  unable  to  read.  There 
are  62  incorporated  academies  or  high  schools  in 
the  state,  supported  by  public  ami  private  endow- 
ments :  the  oldest  and  best  endowed  of  which,  is 
Phillip's  Academy  at  Andover.  There  are  also 
many  flourishing  Academies  unincorporated.  The 
public  schools  of  Boston  are  in  some  respects  the 
best  in  the  Union.  The  primary  schools  are  how- 
ever  generally  defective.     There  are  about  7500 

23* 


t  i 


n 


■  m 


S78 


CITY    Of   BOSTON. 


children  instructed  in  the  public  schools  in  Boston^ 
as  follows—  There  are  seven  Grammar  schools,  in 
which  were  about  50(>  pupiln.  There  were  200 
boys  in  the  Latin  school,  and  l40  in  the  High 
(school.  The  67  primary  schools  contained,  in 
1828,  :M36  children  between  4  and  7  years  of  age^ 
taught  by  females,  &,c.  6lc.  In  some  of  these  the 
monitorial  system  has  been  introduced.  The  pub- 
lic expense  incurred  in  instructing  nearly  7600 
children  is  $54,500  annually.  There  have  since 
been  eslablislied  several  Infant  schools,  under  the 
direction  of  a  societj  of  ladies. 

The  Farm  School^  a  little  out  of  the  city,  is  A 
sort  of  House  of  Refuge,  cofnected  with  a  farm* 
which  has  been  conducted  with  very  satisfactory 
success,  and  is  worthy  of  a  visit. 

An  Asylum  for  the  Blind  is  established  in  Bos- 
ton. 

Villages,  The  vicinity  of  Boston  presents  a 
succession  of  villages,  proljably  not  to  be  paralleh^d 
for  beauty  in  the  United  States.  They  are  gene- 
rally the  residence  of  a  number  of  the  most  opu- 
lent citizens  during  the  pleasant  seasons,  and  many 
of  the  buildings  are  fine  and  expensive.  The 
grounds  are  also  frequently  laid  out  with  great  taste^ 
and  highly  cultivated  ;  so  that  no  stranger,  who  has 
leisure,  should  fail  to  take  a  circuit  through  them, 
at  least  for  a  few  miles.*  The  public  coaclies  may 
be  found  convenient.     There  are  several  manufac- 


*  The  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  at  Chelsea  opposite  Boston,  is  a  fin^ 
buildini?,  erected  out  of  the  Hospital  collected  from  seamen  in  the  mer- 
chant service.  It  is  105  feet  long,  50  wide,  three  stories  high,  and  cost 
$30,000.  Here  temporary  relief  is  aff<irded  to  American  Seamen  whd 
had  paid  Hospital  ,.  uu*-i.,  (unless  afiected  by  contauious  diseases,)  aud 
foreign  seamen  are  admitted  at  the  price  of  75  cents  a  day. 


^AlIANt. 


270 


Boston^ 

nuls,  in 
re  200 
3  High 
nod,  in 
of  age^ 
lese  the 
'he  pub- 
ly  7600 
I'e  since 
ider  the 

ty,  is    A 

a  farm* 

s  factory 


in  BoS' 


L 


spnts  a 
iralleli^d 
re  gene* 
ost  opu- 
id  many 
e.  The 
!at  taste^ 
who  has 
h  them, 
IBS  may 
lanufac- 


1,  is  a  fin^ 
in  the  mer- 
h,  and  cost 
eamen  whd 
eases,)  and 


turlng establishments  in  this  vicinity,  among  \vhich 
Waltham  is  conspicnous.  [In  some  places  on  the 
coast  salt  is  made  from  sea-water.*'] 

Mount  Anburn. 

CambridgCj  3  miles  from  Boston,  is  the  seat  of 
the  oldest,  and  one  of  the  principal  colleges  in  the 
tJnited  States.  The  village  is  very  pleasant,  and 
contains  the  residences  of  the  numerous  profes- 
sors. The  college  buildings  are  numerous,  and  the 
older  ones  venerable  in  their  appearance.  This 
institution  is  the  most  richly  endowed  in  the  U. 
States,  and  has  educated  many  of  her  most  dis- 
tinguished men.  Hon.  Josiah  Quincy  is  the  Pres- 
ident. 

NAHANT,  14  miles.  This  is  a  very  pleasant 
and  fashionable  resort,  during  the  warm  months  : 
being  a  fine  situation,  open  to  the  sea,  of  ensy  ac- 
cess by  land  or  water,  and  furnished  with  several 
houses  for  the  accommodation  of  visiters,  particu- 
larly the  large  hotel.  A  steamboat  runs  thither  in 
the  summer,  and  there  is  a  fine  road  which  passes 
tound  the  bay  through  the  .vhoemaUing  town  of 
Lynn,  along  Lynn  beach,  and  then  turns  ofl^  to  the 
promontory  of  Nahant,  which  is  a  point  of  rough 
rocks  of  considerable  elevation.  You  may  cross 
Charlestown  bridge,  and  visit  Bunker's  Hill  at  set- 
ting out. 

The  passage  in  the  steamboat  affords  a  fine  view 
of  Boston  bay,  with  the  city  ;  Dorchester  heights 
on  the  south,  IJunker  and  Breed's  Hill  on  the  north- 
west, and  many  other  interesting  objects.     Amon^ 

*  The  Salt  ManufacloHci  of  MafSnchusttA  nre  worth  about  two  mil^ 
lions  of  dollars,  and  make  about  600,000  bushels  a  yeai*,  by  solar  evap- 
oration. 


). 

"i: 
i' 

lii'i 


m 


m-.^. 


280 


NAHANT. 


)  . 


the  islands  whicli  form  the  defence  of  the  harbol'V 
is  t)}at  which  contains  Caslle  Wilhams,  and  one  oi" 
two  other  fortified  ones  ;  Rainsford  Island  with  the 
Marine  Hospital,  part  of  it  quite  elevated,  but  con- 
taining only  a  few  acres.  Salt  is  made  at  Deer  Is- 
land whereyou  pass  through  a  narrow  and  crooked 
channel,  and  wind-mills  are  sometimes  used  to 
pump  the  water. 

The  ground  near  the  hotel  at  Nahant,  has  been 
laid  out  and  ornamented  with  as  much  taste  as  the 
exposure  of  the  situation  will  permit.  The  cupo^ 
la  on  the  top  commands  a  fine  water  scene  ;  and 
during  a  strong  wind  from  the  sea,  the  waves  are 
high  and  magnificent,  breaking  wildly  against  the 
rocks.  Pea  Island,  south-westerly,  and  Egg  Island, 
east,  are  prominent  and  rocky. 

The  Baths  are  at  a  little  distance  from  the  hotel, 
and  quite  commodious,  furnishing  one  of  the  chief 
attractions  of  the  place. 

Tiie  Spouting  Horn  is  a  hollow  in  the  rocks,  on 
the  shore,  east  of  the  village,  where,  at  half-tide, 
the  waves  throw  the  spray  ten  or  fifteen  feet  into 
the  air. 

The  Swallow^s  Cave  is  a  remarkable  aperture  in 
the  rocks,  not  far  from  the  landing  place.  It  is 
60  or  70  feet  long,  and  in  one  place  about  20  feet 
high.  The  tide  rises  in  it,  and  it  is  visited  by 
swallows  ;  and  there  are  several  other  caverns  of 
a  similar  character,  produced  in  the  course  of  ages, 
by  the  constant  attrition  o^  the  water.  Seats  are 
conveniently  disposed  at  different  places,  in  the 
most  commanding  points,  from  which  the  truly 
striking  objects  around  are  seen  to  great  advantage. 
The  rude  shores  and  the  smooth  beach  can  be  best 


PLYMOUTH. 


281 


harbovV 
(1  one  of 
with  the 
but  con- 
Deer  Is- 
crooked 
used    ta 

las  been 
ite  as  the 
he  cupo^ 
;ne  ;  and 
^aves  are 
ainst  the 
rg  Island, 

he  hotel, 
the  chief 

rocks,  on 

half-tide, 

eet   into 

erture  in 

le.  It  is 
t  20  feet 

[sited   by 

verns  of 

of  ages, 

eats  are 

in  the 

|he    truly 

vantage* 

be  best 


examined  at  low  tide  ;  but  those  who  are  fond  of 
sublime  scenes,  should  omit  no  opportunity  to  visit 
them  when  the  wind  is  high,  particularly  in  a  moon- 
light night. 

Railroads. 

Plymouth,  36  miles  S.  S,  E.  from  Boston. — 
This  place  is  highly  interesting  from  its  history, 
being  the  site  of  the  first  settlement  made  by  the 
New-England  Pilgrims  in  1620,  on  the  22d  of  De- 
cember. A  mass  of  granite  rock  is  still  shown  on 
which  those  stepped  who  first  landed.  It  has 
been  divided,  and  a  part  of  it  remains  buried  near 
the  shore  in  its  natural  location,  while  the  upper 
part  is  removed  into  the  centre  of  the  village. 

A  handsome  building  was  erected  here  in  1820*, 
in  which  the  New-England  Society  hold  their  an- 
nual celebrations  of  that  interesting  era  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  country.  Burying  Hill,  which  rises 
near  at  hand,  is  the  spot  where  a  small  fort  was 
erected  by  the  settlers,  and  where  the  graves  of 
several  of  them  are  still  to  be  found.  The  banks 
of  the  brook  south  of  the  hill  were  the  scene  of  the 
first  conference  with  Massasoit,  a  friendly  and 
faithful  Indian  chief,  from  whom  the  name  of  the 
Bay,  and  subsequently  that  of  the  state  was  de- 
rived. Manumet  point  is  a  promontory  on  the 
south  side  of  the  harbor  ;  and  a  small  island  on  the 
opposite  of  it  was  the  spot  where  the  pilgrims  first 
placed  their  feet  on  shore  in  this  vicinity,  after 
having  previously  landed  on  Cape  Cod. 

The  young  and  feeble  colony  suffered  extreme 
distresses  here,  from  the  severity  of  the  climate, 
(against  which  they  were  unprepared,  as  they  had 
sailed  for  a  more  southern  region,)  and  the  want 


:   ' 


i<  I 


f;r||. 


! 


;  :  i      I 

m 


■I ' 

it 

it 


\, 


'n 


I  i( 


282 


>f 


ROUTES    FROM    BOSTON. 


ins.     Notbin'T but  tbe  assistance  of  M as- 


n'ovisioi 
sasoit  preserved  tbern  from  extinction. 


Sandwich,  a  favorite  resort  for  fisbing  and  sea 
air,  is  a  few  miles  below  Plymoutb.  There  is  a 
good  inn  kept  by  Mr.  Swift. 

Routes  from  Boston Coaches  go  in  so  ma- 
ny directions,  that  a  choice  may  be  made  between 
a  great  many,  all  of  them  pleasant;  in  setting  out 
for  a  tour  to  the  westward,  or  towards  the  city  of 
New-York  : 

In  the  first  place,  the  noble  scenery  of  the  White 
Hills  may  be  taken  in  the  way  to  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  Canada,  the  Springs,  or  Niagara;  or  in 
making  the  more  circumscribed  route  of  Connec- 
ticut River.  Next,  th.)se  who  choose  a  more  di- 
rect way,  may  avail  themselves  of  the  road  through 
Concord,  Keene,  and  Windsor ;  or  its  branches 
to  Charlestown  or  Walpole.  The  last  is  now  much 
travelled,  as  it  is  one  of  the  shortest  routes  be- 
tween Boston  and  the  Springs,  and  leads  through 
a  number  of  interesting  places.  Besides  these, 
are  the  roads  to  Albany  or  the  Springs,  through 
the  following  different  places :  Brattleborough, 
Hloody  Brook,  Greenfield,  Northampton,  (and 
New-Lebanon ;)  Springfield  and  Hartford.  To 
strang(;rs  it  will  be  proper  to  remark  once  more, 
that  the  route  of  Connecticut  River  presents  at 
once  a  scene  of  fertility,  population,  good  habits^ 
and  intelligence,  on  the  whole,  superior  to  any  other 
tract  of  country,  of  equal  extent,  in  the  U.  States; 
with  correspondent  accommodations  for  travellers. 
The  scenery  is  rich  and  varying,  and  cannot  fail 
to  please,  wherever  it  is  seen  :  but  those  who  can 
first  pass  througli  the  Notch  in  the  White  Moun-^ 


"W 


o(  Mas- 

and  sea 

ere  is  a 

so  ma- 
jetween 
ting  out 
;  city  of 

e  White 
Charn- 
;    or  in 
Connec- 
nore  di- 
through 
branches 
pw  much 
utes  be- 
through 
s  these, 
through 
borough, 
)n,    (and 
•d.      To 
e   more, 
sents  at 
habits, 
|ny  other 
States ; 
lavellers. 
imot  fail 
Iwho  can 
Moua- 


BROOKFIELD. 


283 


tains,  will  find  its  beauties  greatly  enhanced  by 
the  contrast.  Since  the  devastation  caused  by  the 
flood  in  1826,  the  road  has  been  so  much  repaired 
as  to  be  very  good;  and  great  imj>rovements  have 
been  made  at  E.  A.  Crawford's,  in  the  ascent  of 
Mount  Washington,  and  in  accommodations.  At 
Hadley  and  Northampton,  is  the  most  beautiful 
pdrt  of  the  whole  river;  and  for  the  other  routes, 
we  can  only  refer  to  the  Index  for  the  descriptions 
of  the  principal  towns  through  which  thry  pass. 

East  of  Boston,  the  country  is  of  a  different,  and 
too  often  of  an  opposite  character,  presenting  few 
objects  of  importance,  except  the  seaports  through 
wnich  the  chief  road  passes. 

There  is  a  line  of  Steamboats  to  Maine  and 
^eW' Brunswick. 

The  Road  to  Portland  and  through  the  most 
populous  part  of  the  state  of  Maine  will  be  given  ; 
but  being  of  less  inierest  to  most  travellers  from 
this  city,  will  be  placed  towards  the  end  of  the 
volume,  while  we  turn  our  attention  to  the  princir 
pal  routes  leading  west  and  north  from  Boston. 

To  Albany,  through    Worcester,   North* 

AMPTON,  AND  LEBANON  SPRINGS. 

Watertown,  like  almost  all  the  villages  in  the 
vicinity  of  Boston,  presents  many  neat  country 
seats  and  an  aspect  of  rural  beauty  and  fertility. 

Framingham. — Here  is  a  large  and  well  kept 
hotel,  where  the  stage  coaches  stop,  and  a  place 
of  great  resort.     (20  m.  from  Boston  ) 

Worcester,  20  m.  (See  Index.)  Leicester, 
9  m.     Spencer,  6  m. 

Brookfield  was  settled  Nov.  10,  1665;  and  for 
several  years  the  only  towns  on  the  west  were 


11 


.:  I 


.;.  ;* 

'i 

i; 

ill 

i 

1 

11 


284 


WE3T    BROOKFIELD. 


Hadley,  Northampton,  &c.  while  there  was  no 
white  settlement  between  it  and  Canada.  The 
stage  coach  passes  over  a  long  hill  in  West  Brook- 
field,  which  was  the  place  where  the  settlement 
began.  A  few  yards  west  of  a  white  house  on  the 
north  side  of  the  road,  was  a  house  built  for  de- 
fence, called  the  Fort.  In  August,  1675,  this 
place  was  suddenly  beset  by  several  hundred  sava- 
ges. The  inhabitants  had  been  imposed  upon  by 
the  appearance  of  friendliness  shown  by  the  Has- 
senemesit  Indians,  and  on  their  way  to  iheir  fort, 
a  few  miles  distant,  were  ambushed  and  pursued, 
so  that  they  barely  escaped.  The  house  in  which 
they  all  assembled  was  besieged,  and  was  several 
times  in  imminent  danger.  On  one  occasion  a 
cart,  loaded  with  hemp,  &c.  and  set  on  fire,  was 
pushed  up  to  the  house  with  long  poles,  when  a 
sudden  shower  came  up,  in  time  to  extinguish  the 
flames.  The  fortunate  arrival  of  Capt.  Mosley, 
with  a  small  troop  ol  horsemen,  delivered  the  in- 
habitants. All  the  houses  having  been  burned, 
and  the  war  soon  beginning  to  rage  with  violence, 
the  settlement  was  evacuated. 

West  Brookfieldj  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  is 
pleasantly  situated,  with  several  ponds  in  the 
neighborhoo(',  which,  wiih  the  fish  and  fowl  they 
furnished,  were  the  principal  attraction  of  the 
savages,  who  were  very  numerous  in  this  tract  of 
country.  These  ponds  give  rise  to  the  Quabaug 
river,  which,  after  a  course  of  some  miles,  takes 
the  name  of  Chicopee,  and  joins  the  Connecticut 
at  Springfield. 

Four  miles  east  of  Brookfield  you  reach  a  height 
of  land,  which  affords  a  varied  and  extensive  view, 


ROUTE    FROM    BOSTON. 


285 


was  no 
I.     The 
Brook- 
tlcment 
B  on  the 
for  de- 
75,    this 
ed  sava- 
upon  by 
he  Has- 
leir  fort, 
pursued, 
in  which 
3  several 
;casion  a 
fire,  was 
when  a 
ruish  the 
Mosley, 
the  in- 
burned, 
dolence, 


with  a  succession  of  hilly  country  immediately 
around  you. 

Ware  Factory  Village  is  situated  in  a  little 
valley,  with  an  excellent  inn. 

Belcher  town,  9  miles. 

AmhersU  7  miles.  The  shortest  road  to  North- 
ampton does  not  pass  the  College,    (See  Index.) 

Hadley,  5  miles. 


24 


\i 


ill'' 


m 


i " 


11.' 


^1 


,'y 


1. 


II' 


v^ 


\ 


hill,  is 
in  the 
[)wl  they 
of  the 
tract  of 
Juabaug 
:s,  takes 
neclicut 

a  height 
Ive  view, 


iu 


5     ( 


i     ;1 


W' 


m 


'^6 


BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    M0UJJTAIN8. 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE 

MOUNTAINS. 

The  first  day's  journey  is  to  Concord  or  D  jer, 
both  in  New-Hampshire.  The  former  route  is 
recommended. 

There  are  three  roads  to  Concord,  on  all  which 
there  are  sta^e  coaches.  (All  necessary  informa- 
tion concerning  them,  can  be  readily  obtained  at 
the  Hotels.) 

The  first  is  through  Cambridge,  (where  is  Har- 
vard University,  see  Index,)  and  Lexington. 

The  second  is  through  Ckarlestown,  and  joins 
the  other  on  the  Merrimack. 

The  third  is  through  Andover  and  Haverhill, 
Mass. 

The  distance  is  from  68  to  70  miles,  and  the 
fare  $3  50. 

Besides  Uiese  there  is  a  boat  on  the  Middlesex 
Canal,  which  has  heretofore  left  the  upper  lucks 
in  Charlestown,  (two  miles  from  Boston,)  three 
times  a  week,  and  goes  to  Chelmsford  in  about 
nine  hours :  28  miles,  passage  75  cents.  This 
mode  is  not  particularly  recommended. 

Several  places  on  these  roads  will  be  particu- 
larized. 

Lexingto??  is  remarkable  as  the  place  where 
the  first  blood  was  shed  in  the  Revolutionary  war. 
On  the  19th  of  April,  1776,  Gen.  Gage  sent  a  body 
of  troops  from  Boston,  to  seize  a  powder  house  at 
Concord,  belonging  to  the  colony;  and  the  inhab- 
itants were  warned  of  his  design,  but  they  unex- 
pectedly made  their  appearance  at  half  past  4, 
coming  on  at  a  quick  step,   within  a  mile  and  a 


48. 


ANDOVER. 


287 


WHITE 

r  D  jer, 
route  is 

ill  which 
informa- 
tained  at 

e  is  Har- 

lon. 

nd  joins 

laverhill, 

and  the 

iddlesex 

er  locks 

,)  three 

in  about 

IS.     This 

particu- 

where 

|ary  war. 

It  a  body 
louse  at 

|e  inhab- 

;y  unex- 

past  4, 

lie  and  a 


quarter  of  the  church.  The  alarm  guns  were 
fired,  drums  beat,  and  50  or  60  militiamen  assem- 
bled on  the  parade.  The  British  brigade  halted 
about  120  yards  from  the  church  to  load,  and  then 
passing  the  east  end  of  the  building,  discovered 
the  Americans,  who  were  ordered  at  the  moment, 
by  their  commander,  Capt.  Parker,  to  ** disperse, 
and  take  care  of  themselves,"  but  "not  to  fire.*' 
As  some  of  them  loitered,  the  British  troops  rush- 
ed towards  them,  huzzaing.  Major  Pitcairn  fired 
a  pistol  at  them,  when  about  30  yards  distant, 
after  they  had  been  called  "rebels,"  and  ordered 
them  to  lay  down  their  arms  and  disperse.  An- 
other officer,  who  was  within  a  few  yards  of  them, 
then  brandished  his  sword,  and  ordered  the  troops 
to  "fire,"  which  was  obeyed  at  the  second  order; 
and  the  fire  being  returned,  it  was  kept  up  on  the 
dispersing  men  until  they  had  all  disappeared. 
Eight  were  killed,  and  ten  wounded.  (Gen.  Gage 
falsely  stated  that  the  British  were  first  fired  upon.) 

After  the  regulars  had  fired  a  volley,  from  the 
green  behind  the  church,  and  given  three  cheers, 
they  proceeded  to  Concord.  On  their  return,  being 
hard  pressed  by  sharp  shooters,  they  burned  three 
houses,  a  shop,  and  a  barn,  killed  three  more  men, 
and  wounded  one. 

Andover  is  a  small  village,  situated  on  high 
ground,  20  miles  from  Boston,  and  the  site  of 
Philips  Academy  and  Theological  Seminary, 
which  are  three-fourths  of  a  mile  east  from  it,  on 
the  summit  of  the  ascent.  There  are  three  large 
brick  buildings^  belonging  to  the  Seminary,  which 
make  a  conspicuous  figure  fiom  diflferent  parts  of 
the  surrounding  country,  and  command  a  view  of 


j!t'^' 


t: 


.'a  i 


w 


ii  f 


« J 

I'. 

'.  i 


'  1"  I 


:vH:: 


i 


288 


BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


great  extent,  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Temple 
Hills  in  New-Hampshire,  backed  by  the  Monad- 
noc,  about  60  miles  off;  and  on  the  south  by  the 
Blue  Hills.  A  little  elevation  near  by  affords  a 
view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  from  about  Newbury- 
port  to  Cape  Ann,  with  part  of  Salem  ;  and  north- 
west is  a  distant  peak,  which  is  supposed  to  be 
Ascutney,  in  Vermont. 

The  academical  buildings  are  distinguished  by 
the  names  of  Philips  Hall,  Bartlett  Hall,  and  the 
Chapel,  In  the  upper  part  of  the  latter  is  a  libra- 
ry of  5  or  6000  volumes.  The  Professors'  hou- 
ses are  opposite,  with  a  spacious  green  intervening 
between  the  Seminary  and  the  street;  and  there 
is  also  a  large  inn.  The  Academy  and  Seminary 
are  not  connected,  although  they  are  under  the 
superintendence  of  the  same  board.  The  terra 
of  instruction  in  the  latter  embraces  three  years. 
The  number  of  students  in  the  former,  in  1828, 
was  108. 

Haverhill  is  a  small  town,  pleasantly  situated, 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  Merrimack,  the  shores  of 
which,  for  some  distance  below,  present  a  beauti- 
ful and  fertile  slope  to  the  water.  A  draw-bridge 
crosses  the  river,  with  a  roof  to  protect  it  from  the 
weather. 

Lowell,  12  miles  from  Boston,  by  the  Railroad, 
This  is  one  of  the  greatest  manufacturing  places 
in  the  United  States,  and  one  of  the  most  aston- 
ishing rapidity  of  growth.  In  1813  the  first  cot- 
ton factory  was  erected  here,  which  cost  only 
about  $3,000.  Larger  ones  were  founded  in 
1818;  and  two  years  after,  the  "Merrimack  Man- 
ufacturing Company"  made  a  purchase  of  build- 


\ 


s. 

Fern  pie 
Monad- 

by  the 
ffords  a 

wbury- 
d  north- 
1  to  be 

shed  by 
and  the 
a  libra- 
rs'  hou- 
rvening 
id  there 
^minary 
ider  the 
le  term 
e  years. 
1    1828, 

iituated, 
lores  of 
,  beauti- 
I'-bridge 
Tom  the 

ailroad. 
[  places 
i  astou- 
irst  cot- 
ist  only 
nded  ill 
;k  Man- 
f  build- 


LOWELL. 


289 


ings  and  ground.  The  falls  are  30  feet  high,  and 
a  little  below  the  spot  where  the  Middlesex  canal 
commences,  leading  to  Charlestown,  near  Boston; 
and  round  them  the  Company  improved  an  old 
canal,  (at  the  expense  of  $120,000,)  for  the  sup- 
ply of  their  water  wheels.  There  is  power  enough 
for  50  factories  with  3,600  spindles  each.  The 
place  is  now  a  large  village,  laid  out  with  remark- 
able uniformity.  The  population  in  1830,  was 
6,474. 

Lowell  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  Merri- 
mack and  Concord  rivers,  25  miles  N.  W.  from 
Boston  ;  the  foundation  of  the  second  factory  here, 
was  laid  in  1822,  at  which  time  there  were  only 
300  inhabitants. 

The  whole  amount  of  capital  here  invested,  is 
$6J5t»,000.  The  number  of  large  mills  in  actual 
operation,  is  19.  These  mills  are  each  about  157 
feet  in  length  and  45  in  breadth,  of  brick,  five  sto- 
ries high,  each  story  averaging  from  10  to  13  feet, 
number  of  spindles,  84,000;  looms  3000;  1200 
male  and  3801)  female  operatives;  cotton  used  per 
annum,  20,000  bales.  The  number  of  yards  of 
cotton  goods  of  various  qualities  made  annually, 
27  million.  The  quantity  of  wool  ii  anufactured 
annually  into  cassimeres  is  about  160,000  pounds, 
making  150,000  yards.  Amount  paid  for  labor 
to  all  the  operatives,  $1,200,000  per  annum.  New 
mills  are  constantly  erecting.  n,00()  tons  of  An- 
thracite Coal  are  annually  consumed  in  the  vari- 
ous establishments,  besides  other  fuel. 

The  great  water  power  is  produced  by  a  canal 
a  mile  and  a  half  long,  00  feet  wide,  8  deep  from 
its  commencement  above   the  head  of  Faw tucket 

24* 


i' 


> 


k  '■  m 
t '..  'I 


^ 


5^90        BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 

Falls,  on  the  Merrin^ack,  to  its  end  Im  Concord 
river.  Entire  fall  3*^  feet.  The  water  is  taken 
from  this  canal  by  smaller  canals,  and  conveyed 
to  the  factories,  and  thence  into  the  Merrimack. 
There  is  room  and  water  power  sufficient  for  60 
more  lar^e  factories. 

There  is  another  canal  round  the  falls  of  the 
Merrimack,  90  feet  wide  and  4  deep.  30,000 
]ie^s  of  powder,  of  25  pounds  each,  are  made  an- 
nually at  the  Concord  works,  1  mile  from  the 
town.  Lowell  communicates  with  Boston  by 
means  of  the  Middlesex  Canal  and  a  Railroad. 
Population  12,000. 

Chelmsford  is  one  of  the  principal  manufactu- 
ring places  in  the  United  States. 

Manufactories  in  New- Hampshire,  So  recent- 
ly as  1810  there  were  but  12  cotton  manufactories 
in  this  state,  with  5955  spindles;  and  only  alout 
two  million  yards  of  woollen,  cotton,  flaxen,  and 
tow  cloth  were  made  in  them  and  in  private  fariii- 
lies  during  that  year. 

Great  Falls  Village, 

Nashua  Village,  in  Dunstable,  33  miles  from 
Concord.  The  fall  in  the  Nashua  river  is  65  feet, 
and  the  power  equal  to  about  65,000  spindles. 

Dover  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  in  the  state, 
and  contains  several  manufactories,  although  the 
supply  of  water  is  by  no  means  abundant  at  all 
seasons. 

About  five  miles  above  Dover,  at  Salmon  River 
Falls,  is  a  village  containing  four  manufactories, 
of  different  sizes,  from  63  to  390  feet  in  length, 
and  of  five  and  six  stories  in  height. 

CONCORD  is  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire, 
and  a  very  fine  and  flourishing  town.     It  is  much 


s. 


CONCORD. 


291 


:  I 


Concord 
is  taken 
onveyed 
rrimack. 
t  for  60 

3  of  the 
30,000 
nade  aii- 
Vom  the 
>ston  by 
[lailroad. 

mufactu- 


o  recent- 
ifactories 
\\y  alout 
en,  and 
ate  fariii- 


es  from 
65  feet, 

dies. 

he  state, 

ugh  the 
t  at  all 

in  River 
ictories, 
length, 

ipshire, 
is  much 


the  largest  the  traveller  will  see  before  reaching 
the  White  Mountains,  and  for  a  great  distance 
beyond  them. 

The  town  is  situated  principally  on  one  street, 
which  is  of  a  great  length  and  very  convenient 
breadth,  with  many  respectable  houses;  and  runs 
parallel  with  the  Merrimack,  which  is  at  only  a 
short  distance  on  the  east. 

The  State  House  near  the  middle  of  the  town, 
surrounded  by  a  handsome  stone  wall,  is  built  of 
hewn  granite  from  the  quarry,  and  is  a  neat  edi- 
fice, 100  feet  long,  with  a  large  hall  on  the  first 
floor,  and  on  the  second  the  Senate  and  Represen- 
tatives' Chambers,  with  the  committee  rooms, 
state  offices,  &c.  &c.  The  view  from  the  top  is 
extensive. 

The  State  Prison  is  built  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  State  House,  and  bears  a  still  greater  ap- 
pearance of  solidity  and  strength. 

There  is  an  Academy  in  Concord,  with  several 
churches.  Farmer  <Sl  Moore's  Gazetteer  of  New- 
Hampshire  is  the  best  companion  for  a  traveller 
in  this  state.  In  1828,  the  Legislature  of  New- 
Hampshire  divided  the  literary  fund  among  the 
towns,  to  be  appropriated  by  them  according  to 
their  discretion. 

The  Common  Schools  of  New-Hampshire  are 
chiefly  supported  by  a  tax,  which  has  yielded  for 
several  years  ^90,000,  or  about  ^1  for  each  child 
of  school  age.  Besides  this  however,  there  is  an 
income  of  above  $i  1,000  ^rom  the  literature  fund, 
and  something  to  most  of  the  towns  from  school 
lands.  There  are  above  1,700  school  districts; 
1,601  school  houses,  and  one  person  out   of  3^  of 


1^ 


■■II 

■m 


•n 


til 


i 


392 


BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


the  whole  population  attends  school.  There  are 
35  incorporated,  and  several  unincorporated  AcbJ- 
emicsu  The  Philips'  Academy  at  Kxeter,  the  Un- 
ion Academy  at  Plainlield,  and  the  Baptist  Theo- 
logical Academy  at  New  Jlampton,  are  best  en- 
dowed. 

From  what  may  have  been  observed  of  the 
granite  rocks  along  the  road,  the  iKtranger  must 
have  admired  their  superior  (juaiity,  and  the  free- 
dom and  precision  of  their  fracture,  wherever  the 
wedge  is  judiciously  applied.  Great  quantities 
have  been  transported  to  Boston,  and  other  cities 
farther  distant,  for  building  stone.  A  large  rock, 
which  was  cut  in  pieces  in  1823,  sold  for  ^6,129 
in  Boston.  This  single  rock  made  lO,o()0  feet  of 
facing  stone  and  ornamental  work — and  the  aggre- 
gate weight  of  all  the  blocks  (smooth  hewn)  was 
650  tons,  it  having  lost  only  50  tons  in  being  pre- 
pared for  the  market,  after  it  was  brought  to  the 
prison  yard.  The  fine  blocks  broken  out  of  the 
old  boulders,  for  the  posts  of  fences,  as  well  as 
for  steps,  mill  stones,  &c.  must  have  shown  the 
excellence  of  the  granite  of  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try. The  same  characteristics,  in  greater  or  less 
degrees,  will  be  found  to  attend  the  whole  of  the 
granite  range  of  the  White  Mountains,  till  its  last 
appearance  about  Bath,  on  Connecticut  river. 

The  Merrimack  River  has  been  rendered  navi- 
gable, by  various  improvements,  from  Concord  to 
Chelmsford,  where  the  Middlesex  Canal  opens  a 
communication  directly  to  Boston,  28  miles. 
Small  manufacturing  villages  succeed  each  other 
along  the  banks  wherever  the  canals  round  the 
falls  and  rapids  afford  water-power.  Some  of 
them  we  have  noticed. 


\ 


Fj 
an 

Fi 
th 
er 
tec 


ii 


IS. 

here  arc 
eil  Acb  '- 

,  tho  Un- 

st  Theo- 

bcst  en- 


ROADS. 


293 


[1  of  the 
rer  must 
the  free- 
ever  the 
uantities 
ler  cities 
go  rock, 
r  $6,129 
)0  feet  of 
lie  aggre- 
iwri)  was 
amg  pre- 
t  to  the 
it  of  the 
well  as 
wn  the 
Ihe  coiin- 
r  or  less 
of  the 
1  its  last 
er. 

d  navi- 
cord  to 
opens  a 
miles, 
h  other 
nd  the 
ome  of 


Roads,  The  traveller  to  the  White  Mountains 
will  go  to  Alton  and  there  enter  the  Steamboat 
on  the  Lake,  which  runs  to  Centre  Harbor. 

Several  lines  of  stage  coaches  meet  in  this  town. 
From  Boston,  Portsmouth,  Plymouth,  [laverliill, 
and  one  to  Burlington,  <&c. 

[From  Plymouth  a  stage  wagon  goes  through 
Franconia  Notch  to  Littleton.  'J'he  road  follows 
the  Pemigewasset,  through  fine,  magnificent  scen- 
ery. The  country,  however,  is  almost  uninhabi- 
ted until  reaching  Franconia,  where  are  iron 
works,  and  a  curious  profile  on  a  mountain,  called 
the  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain.  (See  IndeXy  Fran- 
conia.) 

There  is  a  road  on  each  side  of  the  lake  tow- 
ards Conway. 

Two  roads  from  Concord  lead  to  Meredith 
Bridge  Village — (Badger's)  24  miles  distant :  one 
by  Sandbornton  bri  .ge  (Tilton's,)  15  miles — the 
other  by  the  Sliaker  village  (Shaker's  Inn  and 
CoggswelTs,)  12  miles. 

From  M.  B.  Village,  delightfully  situated  be- 
tween two  bays,  and  on  the  beautiful  river  that 
never  freezes,  it  is  nine  miles  to  the  shore  of  the 
Lake  at  Meredith  Cove,  and  thirteen  to  Centre 
Harbor.     (Center's  and  Moulton's.) 

Before  arriving  at  the  lake,  the  prospect  is  va- 
ried with  many  of  those  noble  elevations  which 
rise  to  such  a  height  of  grandeur  and  sublimity  as 
the  traveller  proceeds;  and  the  frequent  glimpses 
afforded  between  the  sloping  hills,  over  the  beauti- 
ful lake  below,  by  a  happy  contrast  increase  the 
effect. 


■ii 


tK 


,;'i 


'  ?i 


I  ifil 


.    Ifir 

^1    '■■ 


294 


BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS, 


WINNIPISEOGEE  LAKE. 

The  number  and  diversity  of  llie  islands  with 
which  the  lake  is  spangled,  will  be  objects  of  par- 
ticular admiration.  They  are  countless  for  mul- 
titude, and  in  size  present  all  gradations  between 
a  single  rock  and  a  surface  sufficient  for  several 
extensive  farms.  Iron  ore  is  found  in  Gunstock 
Mountain,  south  of  the  lake. 

Centre  Ha^ikor.  The  traveller  will  be  amply 
rewarded,  if  the  weather  be  fine,  by  «tupj)ing  at 
least  a  day  to  make  an  excursion  to  the  top  of 

Red  Mountain.  This  eminence  may  be  about 
1500  feet  in  height,  and  is  accessible  for  about 
two-thirds  of  the  way  in  a  carriage  or  on  horse- 
back, though  rot  without  some  difficulty,  on  ac- 
count of  the  Steepness  and  roughness  of  the  road. 
Indeed,  the  path  is  very  rocky  for  half  a  mile  or 
more  before  reaching  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  the  hardy  pedestrian  will  prefer  to  leave  his 
horse  at  the  main  road,  before  turning  off  by  the 
mill.  The  traveller  should  direct  his  course  to- 
wards a  little  notch  he  will  see  about  three-quar- 
ters of  the  Liistance  up.  Thence  he  must  turn 
towards  the  left  and  follow  a  path  to  the  summit. 
An  earl;i  visit  is  recoiii mended,  as  the  scene  is 
much  improved  by  an  oblique  light,  and  the  morn- 
ing is  on  several  accounts  to  be  preferred.  The 
following  sketch  of  the  scene  was  noted  down  on 
the  spot. 

North,  the  eastern  end  of  Squam  Lake,  and 
part  of  a  pond  lying  near  it,  with  the  range  of  the 
Sandwich  Mountains  behincf,  stretching  off  to- 
wards the  east,  with  numerous  dark  brown  peaks, 
partly  cultivated  about  their  bases,  and  enveloped 


J 


f3. 


RED    MOUNTAIN. 


f^b 


ids  with 
s  of  pur- 
for  mul- 
between 
r  several 
Junstock 

oe  amply 
pping   at 
>p  of 
be  about 
or   about 
jn  horse- 
y,   on  ac- 
the  road, 
a  mile  or 
nountain, 
leave  bis 
ff  by  the 
Durse   to- 
ree-quar- 
ust  turn 
summit, 
scene  is 
le  morn- 
lefl.     The 
down  on 

ake,   and 
(re  of  the 

r    off'    to- 

vn  peaks, 
nveloped 


above  with  forests,  excepting  their  summits,  which 
are  generally  divested  of  verdure.  Far  beyond 
these  appear  several  loftier  peaks,  which  might  be 
mistaken  for  the  White  Mountains,  were  they  vis- 
ible from  this  point.  An  intermediate  peak  with 
rocky  precipices  may  be  White-faced  Mountain. 

East-North-East.  The  eye  ranges  up  the  spa- 
cious valley  through  which  lies  the  way  to  the 
White  Mountains ;  and  the  road  which  is  to  con- 
duct the  traveller  seems  diminished  to  the  dimen- 
sions of  a  garden  walk.  Chocaway,  or  Carroway 
Peakn  rises  on  the  left;  while  the  noble  ridge  of 
the  Ossipee  Mountains  begins  nearer  on  the  right 
with  a  beautiful  display  of  farms,  interspersed 
with  woodlots  and  dwellings,  which  in  many  pla- 
ces have  encroached  far  towards  the  summits,  and 
in  others  pursue  the  slope  of  the  fertile  uplaiids  to 
the  valley  at  their  feet.  Numerous  elevations  ap- 
pear at  a  greater  distance,  and  range  themselves 
in  lines  to  complete  the  perspective  of  a  most 
magnificent  vista.  A  prominent  mountain,  scarce- 
ly less  distant,  is  called  Pickwacket  Mountain,  by 
the  Saco  River,  near  the  place  where  Captain 
Lovel  fought  his  well-known  battle  with  the  In- 
dians ;  and  the  fine  valley  between  is  the  country 
passed  over  in  that  fatal  expedition,  both  in  the 
approach  and  the  retreat. 

East,  The  view  abuts  upon  the  Ossipee  Moun- 
tains, ana  no  variety  is  afforded  until  we  turn  to 
the 

South- South' East,  where  Winnipiseogee  Lake 
lies  charmingly  spread  out  to  view,  varied  by  nu- 
merous points  and  headlands,  and  interspersed 
with  beautiful  islands.     Several  distant  elevations 


i 

I 
\ 

i  ■. 
1  '■ 
>  '    SI 


V;[' 


t- 


296 


BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS, 


appear,  and  the  sloping  land  just  mentioned  ex- 
tends for  several  miles  along  the  shore,  spotted  in 
all  directions  with  large  barns  and  farm-houses. 
There  numerous  points  run  out  far  into  the  water, 
to  complete  the  labyrinths  formed  by  the  islands. 
Guiistock  Mountain  rises  one  point  east  of  south, 
just  on  the  left  of  which  opens  the  entrance  of 
Merry-meeting  Bay.  On  the  right  of  that  is  Rat- 
tlesnake Island,  and  over  this  the  distant  land  ap- 
pears high.  South-by-west  rises  a  high  hill  resem- 
bling the  Ossipee. 

The  South- West  and  West  is  agreeably  varied 
with  wood-lots  and  cleared  fields,  scattered  over 
an  undulated  surface,  which  extends  for  many 
miles,  in  some  places  quite  to  the  horizon,  and  in 
others  to  the  broken  boundary  of  tall  but  distant 
mountains.  In  the  south-west  appear  two  or 
three  peaks,  almost  lost  in  the  blue  of  the  sky. 
Nearly  west  are  several  ridges  of  inferior  magni- 
tude, which,  approaching  as  the  eye  slowly  moves 
towards  the  left,  at  length  come  near  the  lake,  and 
disappear  behind  the  neighboring  mountains. 

Long  Pond  may  be  distinguished  by  its  shining 
surface  between  the  west  and  south,  with  several 
other  little  sheets  of  water,  which  lie  in  tranquility 
under  the  shelter  of  the  hills. 

Winnipiseogee  Lake  is  501  ft.  above  the  sea  and 
19  miles  in  length,  from  Centre  Harbor  to  Alton, 
at  the  south-eastern  extremity.  Merry-meeting 
Bay  extends  4  miles  beyond.  Several  of  the  is- 
lands are  large,  and  ct^ntain  good  farms,  although 
only  two  or  three  of  them  belong  to  any  town,  or 
pay  any  taxes.  Some  of  their  names  are  Rattle- 
snake, Cow,  Bear,  and  Moon  Island  ;  also.   Half 


oned  ex- 
potled  in 
i-houses. 
le  water, 
;  islands. 
)f  south, 
trance  of 
it  is  Rat- 
land  ap- 
11  resem- 

ly  varied 
red  over 
)r  many 
I,  and  in 
It  distant 

two  or 
the  sky. 
r  magni- 
y  moves 
ake,  and 
iins. 

shining 
1  several 
inquility 

!  sea  and 
o  Alton, 
meeting 
'  the  is- 
ilthough 
town,  or 
J  Rattle- 
ID,   Half 


BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


297 


;■]■■ 


Mile,  One  Mile,  Two  Mile  Island,  &.c.  &c.     None 
of  them  contain  churches  or  school-houses. 

The  trout  of  Winnipiscogce  Lake,  vary  from  I 
to  4  pounds  in  weight,  while  those  of  Squam  Lake 
are  between  4  and  10.  They  are  sometimes  caught 
of  nearly  double  this  size.  The  trout  fishery  is 
chiefly  carried  on  during  the  winter,  when  great 
quantities  are  salted  for  the  Boston  market.  Perch 
also  abound  and  are  remarkably  fine. 

Geology.  The  sides  of  Red  Mountain  are  cov- 
ered with  half  decomposed  granite.  (On  the  south- 
eastern side  of  the  lake  abed  of  porcelain  clay  has 
been  discovei  d,  which  is  probably  derived  from  a 
similar  source.)  The  granite  is  speckled  with 
horneblende  and  black  mica.  No  rocks  arc  seen 
in  situ^  except  near  the  summit,  where  they  bear 
a  gentle  dip  towards  the  north,  and  are  slightly 
tinged  with  reddish  quartz  and  felspar. 

The  hue  of  the  shrubbery  in  autumn  has    given 
the  mountain  its  name.     The    summit  is    strewed 
with  loose  fragments  ;  and   niusquetoes    and  black 
files  often  abound  there. 

A  (e\v  days  may  be  spent  at  Centre  Harbor  very 
agreeably,  in  making  excursions  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, or  in  sailing  unofi  the  lake,  which  abounds 
in  the  most  inferesiing  variety  of  scenes.  On  leav- 
ing this  place  by  water,  at  the  distance  of  five  miles, 
the  White  Mountains  rise  into  view  ab(»ve  the  in- 
termediate peaks, and  continue  in  sight  quite  across 
the  lake. 

A  f t  w  deer  ar^^  still  found  in  s(>me  places  in  th*? 
neighborhood,  but  being  ))rotected  by  law,  and  still 
more  by  their  scarcity,  are  very  rarely  taken. 

25 


ll 


"J. 


m  ■ 


a 


:!■       Iff'. 

i|  IIP; 


i 


i 


'I 


•'■I 
in 


i: 


g?i,ii)iiia!gi I .■ 


298       BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


Route  from  Centre  Harbor  to  Conway. 

Proceeding  north-east  from  Centre  Harbor,  you 
enter  the  valley  between  the  two  chains  of  moun- 
tains seen  from  the  top  of  Red  Mountain,  and  pass 
through  Moultonboro'  and  Tam worth.  The  sur- 
face is  irregular,  and  much  of  the  land  uncleared  ; 
but  settlements  have  extended  far  up  the  sides  of 
some  of  the  mountains,  and  farms  are  occasionally 
discovered  <^uite  at  the  top.  The  features  of  the 
scenery  are  bold  and  striking. 

Eaton  fleeting'  House.  Two  miles  •  orthward- 
ly  from  this,  Ossipee  Lake  may  be  seeik  by  leav- 
ing the  road  ;  but  it  has  nothing  very  interesting 
in  its  appearance. 

Near  Atkinson's  inn  is  the  Lead  Mine,  discover- 
ed three  or  four  years  since.  A  shaft  has  been 
sunk  about  50  feet,  with  a  horizontal  drift,  and  the 
ore  ;s  good. 

Conway,  6  miles  from  Eaton.  The  view  of  the 
White  Mountains  is  very  fine  from  this  place,  pre- 
senting a  succession  of  lofty  ridges,  the  most  dis- 
tant of  which  are  the  peaks  of  Mounts  Washing" 
ton,  Adams,  Jefferson,  Madison,  Monroe,  and 
Quincy,  The  most  prominent  elevation  on  the 
right,  with  ivvo  summits,  is  Kearseargp,  or  Pick- 
w!»kt;t  :  a  level  meudow  lies  in  the  foreground, 
v\  ith  an  isoJated,  woudy  hill  in  the  middle,  and  the 
Saco  River,  which  rises  on  Mount  Washington, 
and  flows  down  a  narrow  valley,  with  many  me- 
anderin^s, 

[The  White  IMountains  are  interesting,  and  wor- 
thy of  attention  from  every  side  in  which  they  are 
brought  under  the  traveller's  view;  aiid  if  any 
one  should  wish  to  visit   them  from  the   town  of 


FRYEBUROH. 


299 


:    I 


WAY. 

or,  you 
moun- 
nd  pass 
lie  sur- 
leared  ; 
sides  of 
jionally 
of  the 

thward- 
)y  leav- 

jresting 

iscover- 
is  been 
and  the 

i 

V  of  the 
ce,  pre- 
ost  dis- 
ashing- 
96,  and 
on  the 
■  Pick- 
;round, 
and  the 
ington, 
ly  me- 
ld vvor- 
ley  are 
if  any 
own  of 


Adams,  he  may  be  gratified  by  pursuing  a  path  not 
unfrequently  trodden  before.  The  mountains  pre- 
sent £  steep  acclivity  in  the  direction  channelled 
by  numerous  avalanches  which  have  rushed  down 
at  different  periods.  The  Pinkham  road  runs  at 
their  base :  and  the  New  River  may  be  seen,  which 
was  thrown  out  of  its  natural  channel  in  1776,  by 
an  immense  slide,  or  avalanche  ;  and  has  been  re- 
stored to  it  by  that  of  1826,  whose  ravages  were 
so  wide-spread  and  tremendous.] 

The  Chalybeate  Spring,  'furn  off  from  the 
road  to  the  west  about  2  miles  north  of  Abbett's 
inn  in  Conway,  cross  the  Saco,  and  enter  a  field, 
where  if  is  found.  A  house  is  kept  in  the  neigh- 
borhood by  Mrs.  M'Millan.  The  country  abounds 
in  scenes  attractive  to  persons  of  ta^te.  A  little 
church  is  situated  in  a  secluded  and  romantic  val- 
ley; and  the  place  is  destined  for  a  fashionable 
resort. 

The  place  is  off  the  road  and  may  be  missed. 
It  is  in  a  valley,  with  mountains  on  every  side  ex- 
cept the  south-east.  From  near  the  church,  the 
White  Mountains  are  in  siorht.  Two  or  three  miles 
above,  the  Saco  valley  bends  to  the  left,  and  Ellis's 
River  comes  dovvn  a  narrower  vale  in  front.  Up 
the  course  of  this  stream  was  formerly  a  route  by 
which  the  highest  peaks  were  ascended.  A  foot- 
path leaves  it  in  Adams,  and  goes  on  to  Shelburne, 
&LC,     It  is  7  miles  to  Hall's,  in  Bartlett. 

Fryeburgh,  (which  may  be  visiied,)  in  its  ex- 
tent of  six  square  miles,  embraces  a  rich  and  beau- 
tiful valley,  secluded  on  every  side  by  a  wild  and 
mountainous  range  of  country.  The  Saco  River, 
taking  its  rise  on  Mount  Washington,  and  flowing 


'*i 


! 


in 

1. 
'I'l 

M 


:        *■ 

•;:; 

M 

r 


300 


BOSTON    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


tl 


iroug 


h  the  Notcli  in  tljc  White  Hilli 


ei>iotcnin  tue  wmte  Mills,  passes  down 
the  valley  to  Conway,  where  it  finds  the  termina- 
tion of  the  southei  )i  range  ;  and  then  turning  ab- 
ruptly to  the  east,  soon  i  nters  the  charming  mea- 
dows of  Fryeburgh,  and  performs  a  serpentine 
course  of  no  less  tiian  SQ  miles  within  the  limits  of 
the  township. 

The  Indian  Fort  was  on  a  gentle  hill  at  the 
western  side  of  tlie  village,  whicli  commands  a 
view  of  the  Saco  valley  six  miles  up  its  course,  and 
six  miles  down. 

Lovel's  Pond  is  on  an  isthmus,  about  one  mile 
south-east  from  the  village,  and  is  memorable  as 
the  scene  of  one  of  the  most  severe  and  disastrous 
battles  in  the  old  partisan  warfare  against  the  In- 
dians. 

The  Portland  Road  passes  along  the  western 
side  of  the  pond,  and  aflbrds  a  view  of  it  near  its 
north  end,  the  place  of  the  action. 

In  1725,  Captain  Lovel  was  induced  to  undertake 
a  secret  expedition  through  the  wilderness  against 
the  Pickwaket  tribtfe  of  Indians,  who,  instigated  by 
the  Frencli,  had  committed  many  depredations  on 
the  frontier,  so  that  the  general  court  of  Massachu- 
setts had  offered  100  pounds  each  for  their  scalps. 
His  company  consisted  of  30  or  40  men,  with 
young  Mr,  Five  for  tlieir  chaplain,  from  whom 
this  town  received  its  name.  They  passed  up 
Winnipiseogee  Lake,  then  to  Ossipce  Pond,  where 
they  built  a  blockhouse,  and  placed  their  stores  ; 
then  following  up  th.e  course  of  the  Saco,  encanip- 
ed  at  the  month  of  Mill  Brook  at  the  north-west 
corner  of  Level's  Pond,  on  the  ni^ht  preceding 
the  battle,  intending  to  cross  the  isthmus,  and  fall 


s. 


THE    INUNDATION    OP    1826. 


301 


Pll 

If  ,  •fil 

es  down 
termina- 
ning  ab- 
ng  mca- 
rpentine 
limits  of 

II  at  the 
nands  a 
irsc,  and 

one  mile 
rable  as 
isastrous 
t  the  In- 

I  western 
,  near  its 

ndertalie 

s  against 

gated  by 

tions  on 

assachu- 

scalps. 

en,  with 

n   whom 

fissed    up 

d,  where 

r  stores  ; 

encamp- 

rth-west 

receding 

,  and  fall 


\ 


upon  the  Indian  Fort.  The  next  morning  they  de- 
viated from  their  route,  and  the  Indians  having  dis- 
covered the  encampment,  and  the  way  they  had 
gone,  formed  an  ambush,  fired  npon  them  on  their 
return,  and  killed  eight  men.  The  white  men  re- 
treated to  the  north-east  corner  of  the  pond,  where 
is  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  and  defended  themselves 
till  night;  and  the  remains  of  the  unfortunate  ex- 
pedition returned  through  the  forest,  suffering  from 
hunger  and  fatigue,  and  some  of  them  from  wounds. 

The  Stage  Coach  from  Conway  to  Portland  pass- 
es through  Fryeburgh,  Hiram,  Baldwin,  Standish, 
and  Gorham.  The  coach  to  Concord  goes  through 
Conway.  " 

A  tremendous  catastrophe  occurred  among  the 
White  Mountains  on  the  night  of  Aug.  28th,  1826. 
A  storm  of  rain,  unprecedented,  deluged  the  prin- 
cipal peaks  of  the  mountains,  and  poured  such  an 
inundation  upon  the  valleys  and  plains  below,  that 
it  is  commonly  attributed  to  the  "  bursting  of  a 
cloud."  The  effects  produced  by  the  flood  will 
remain  for  centuries  exposed  to  the  eye,  and  afford 
opportunity  to  observe,  in  some  places,  the  struc- 
ture of  the  mountains,  where  their  interior  has 
been  laid  bare  by  the  falling  of  vast  quantities  of 
earth  and  rocks.  Geologists  and  mineralogists, 
too,  may  expect  to  meet  with  curious  and  valuable 
specimens,  among  the  enormous  wrecks  they  will 
observe  on  either  hand. 

The  inundation  was  so  great  and  so  sudden,  that 
the  channels  of  the  streams  were  totally  insufficient 
to  admit  of  the  passage  of  the  water,  which  con- 
sequently overflowed  the  little  level  valleys  at  the 
feet  of  the  mountains.     Innumerable  torrents  im- 

26* 


!«    ( 


I 


:t 


li 


r 


■i  ,  r  t 

^-   "h' 

1 ' 

In 


^:' 


302 


THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


mediately  formed  on  all  sides ;  and  such  deep 
trenches  were  cut  by  the  rushing  water,  that  vast 
bodies  of  earth  and  s^tones  fell  from  the  mountains, 
bearing  with  them  the  forests  that  had  covered 
them  for  ages.  Some  of  these  **  slides,"  as  they 
are  here  popularly  denominated,  (known  among  the 
Alps  as  "'  avalanches  dc  tcrre,^'')  were  half  a  mile 
in  breadth,  and  from  one  to  live  miles  in  length. 
Scarcely  any  natural  occurrence  can  be  imagined 
more  sublime  ;  and  among  the  devastation  which 
it  has  left  to  testify  the  power  of  the  elements,  the 
traveller  will  be  filled  with  awe  at  the  thought  of 
that  Being  by  whom  they  are  controlled  and  di- 
rected. The  timber  was  often  marked  with  deep 
grooves  and  trenches,  made  by  the  rocks  which 
passed  over  them  during  their  descent  from  the 
mountains;  and  great  heaps  of  trees  are  deposit- 
ed in  some  places,  while  in  others,  the  soil  of  the 
little  meadows  is  buried  with  earth,  sand,  or  rocks, 
to  the  depth  of  several  feet.  The  turnpike  road 
leading  through  this  romantic  country,  was  twen- 
ty miles  in  length,  but  was  nlmost  entirely  destroy- 
ed. Twenty-one  of  the  twenty-three  bridges  upon 
it  were  demolished  ;  one  of  them,  built  with  stone, 
cost  $1000. 

The  Willey  House  (which  will  be  seen  in  the 
centre  of  the  mountains,)  was  the  scene  of  a  most 
melancholy  tragedy  on  the  night  above  mentioned, 
when  this  inundation  occurred.  Several  days  pre- 
viously, a  large  "slide"  came  down  from  the  moun- 
tains behind  it,  and  passed  so  near  as  to  cause 
great  alarm,  without  any  injury  to  ihe  inmates. 
The  house  was  occupied  by  Mr.  Calvin  Willey, 
whose  wife  was  a  young  woman  of  a  very  interest- 


BARTLETT. 


303 


;h   deep 
hat  vast 
iin  tains, 
covered 
as  they 
aong  the 
f  a  mile 
I  length, 
magined 
n  which 
ents,  the 
ought  of 
and  di- 
ith  deep 
vs  which 
roni    the 
deposit- 
il  of  the 
or  rocks, 
ke  road 
as  twen- 
destroy- 
aes  upon 
ih  stone, 

1  in  the 
>f  a  most 
ntioned, 
lays  pre- 
e  moun- 
to  cause 
inmates. 
Willey, 
interest- 


ing character,  and  of  an  education  not  to  be  look- 
ed for  in  so  wihl  a  region.     They  had  a  number  of 


th 


young  cliildren,  llieir  lanuly  ivnjounling  in  all  to 
eleven.  They  were  wakid  in  the  night  by  the 
noise  of  the  storm,  or  more. probably  by  the  second 
descent  of  avalanches  from  the  neighboring  moun- 
tains ;  and  fled  in  their  night  clotlies  from  the 
house  to  seek  their  safety,  but  thus  threw  them- 
selves in  the  way  of  destruction.  One  of  the  slides, 
100  feet  high,  stopped  within  3  feet  of  the  house. 
Another  took  away  the  burn,  and  overwhelmed  the 
family.  Nothing  was  found  of  them  for  some  time: 
their  clothes  were  lying  at  their  bedsides,  the  house 
not  having  been  started  on  its  foundation  :  an  im- 
mense heap  of  earth  and  timber,  which  had  slid 
down,  having  stopped  before  it  touched  it ;  and 
they  had  all  been  crushed  on  leaving  the  door,  or 
borne  away  with  the  water  that  overflowed  the 
meadow. 

Bartlett  is  a  comfortable  village,  situated  in  a 
rich  valley,  or  interval,  of  about  300  acres,  where 
the  view  is  bounded  on  every  side  by  near  and  lofty 
mountains.  The  inn  of  the  place  is  kept  by  'Judge 
Hall.'  There  is  another  interval  among  the  moun- 
tains westwardt  which,  although  it  contains  much 
good  cleared  land,  has  been  converted  into  a  com* 
mon,  in  consequence  of  the  ditficulty  of  making  a 
good  road  to  it.  Pursuing  still  the  course  of  the 
narrow  valley,  against  the  current  of  the  8aco,  the 
country  is  found  uncleared,  except  two  or  three 
pretty  little  meadows;  and  destitute  of  inhabitants, 
excepting  only  three  or  four  poor  families,  until 
arriving  at  ■   .  ^ 


«-  1 


I  ■ 

t 


,:  I 


■"  Si 


304 


THE   WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


'I' 


THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS. 

Crawford's  Farm,  seven  and  a  ^alf  miles  south 
of  the  Notch.  Here  the  traveller  will  be  cheerful- 
ly and  comfortably  entertained.  The  water  rose  in 
this  house  two  feet  in  the  flood  <  1826.  This  is 
the  place  from  which  visiters  formerly  began  their 
excursions  to  the  summit  of  the  mountains;  but 
the  best  place  is  at  the  new  house  near  the  Notch. 

Prospect  Mountain,  one  of  the  principal  peaks, 
presents  itself  to  view  a  little  before  arriving  at  the 
first  Crawford's,  with  its  smooth  rounded  summit 
of  brown  moss,  rising  several  hundred  feet  above 
the  region  of  vegetation,  and  offering  an  aspect 
which  distinguishes  these  from  the  other  elevations. 

The  climate  in  this  narrow  valley  is  so  warm  as 
to  favour  the  growth  of  various  trees  which  are 
scarcely  to  be  found  a  few  miles  further  north. 
The  forests  are  here  formed  of  spruce,  ash,  beech, 
maple,  sugar  maple,  &c.  Mr.  Crawford  has  about 
100  acres  cleared,  and  raises  Indian  corn  very  well, 
which  will  not  come  to  maturity  beyond.  His  or- 
chard contains  700  apple  trees.  This  is  one  of  the 
principal  stopping  places  for  the  sleighs,  which 
pass  the  mountains  in  great  numbers  during  the 
winter,  for  Portland,  Boston,  &>c.  There  are  some- 
times 80  horses  in  the  stables. 

Nancy^s  Hill  is  a  small  elevation  a  few  miles 
north  of  this  place.  In  1773,  a  young  woman  of 
respectable  connexions,  who  accompanied  a  family 
of  settlers  to  Dartmouth  (now  Jefferson,)  set  out 
in  the  winter  to  return  to  Portsmouth,  alone  and 
on  foot.  There  was  then  no  house  nearer  than 
Bartlett,  30  miles.  Nancy  was  found  by  some  tra- 
vellers in  this  spot,  frozen  and  covered  with   ice, 


WJ* 


}s  south 
heerful- 
r  rose  in 
This  is 
in  their 
is  ;  but 
Notch, 
I  peaks, 
cf  at  the 
summit 
t  above 
aspect 
(rations. 
vsLvm  as 
ich  are 
north. 
.  beech, 
s about 
•y  well. 
His  or- 
e  of  the 
which 
ng  the 
3  some- 
miles 
tnan  of 
family 
set  out 
ne  and 
r   than 
ne  tra- 
;h   ice, 


THE    NOTCH. 


305 


under  a  liut  formed   of  ])ranc'hns   of  trees,  which 
was  the  only  slultcr  to  be  found  on  llio  way. 
The  WiLLKY  House  is  in  a  secluded    little  val- 


ley about    5  nnl(  s   north  of  Oawlord' 


a 


nd 


was 


lonjr  the  only  buiMin-r  in  a  distance  of  12  miles. 
It  has  sometimes  been  uninhabited  during  the  sum- 
mer season,  in  iIjc  winter  a  family  occu])icd  it  to 
keep  a  fire,  lodgings,  and  a  little  food,  for  travel- 
lers and  wagoners,  who  might  otherwise  perish. 
See  page  302. 

There  is  a  place  near  the  Notch^  where  the  road, 
had  been  built  up  on  a  wall  40  or  50  feet  high,  and 
about  30  yards  in  extent,  at  the  expense  of  $500. 
This  whole  fabric  was  swept  away  by  a  mass  of 
earth,  rocks,  and  trees,  in  the  flood,  which  came 
from  half  a  mile  up  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and 
rushing  down  at  an  angle  of  about  45^,  precipitat- 
ed itself  into  the  bed  of  the  Saco,  which  is  nearly 
300  feet  below. 

The  road  rises  with  a  steep  ascent  for  a  consid- 
erable distance  before  it  reaches  the  Notch,  and 
the  traveller  observes  two  cataracts,  one  pouring 
down  a  precipitous  mountain  at  a  distance  on  the 
west  side  of  the  valley,  and  the  other,  which  is 
called  the  Flumey  rushing  down  on  the  right-hand, 
and  crossing  the  road  under  a  bridge.  The  scene- 
ry is  sublime  and  impressive  beyond  description. 
Just  beyond  is  another  Flume,  About  150  yards 
beyond  is  the  first  great  slide  seen  in  coming  from 
the  Notch. 

The  Notch  is  so  narrow  as  to  allow  only  room 
enough  for  the  path  and  the  Saco,  which  is  here  a 
mere  brook  only  four  feet  in  breadth.  It  is  rc-» 
markable    that    the    Saco    and   the  Ammonoosuc 


1 


h 


liif?. 


H 


306 


THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


il 

l^p^^ai 

1 

id 

B^H 

is 

'M 

n'^H 

''9 

M^'91 

*   'B 

wi^l 

•  >1 

^■i^H 

' -2 

•n^^^^^l 

si 

il 

spririj^  from  fountains  on  Mount  Washington, 
within,  perhaps,  60  yards  of  eacli  other,  though 
the  former  empties  into  the  Atlantic,  and  the  lat- 
ter joins  Connecticut  River.  Another  branch  of 
the  Ammonoosuc  approaches  the  Saco  in  one 
place,  within  about  600  yards.  They  are  both 
crossed  beyond  the  Notch.  The  head  waters  of 
the  Merrimack  rise  within  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
of  this  place  ;  and  run  down  a  long  ravine,  little 
less  remarkable  than  that  of  the  Saco. 

The  Notch  Meadow,  Here  a  house  has  been  re- 
cently erected,  at  which  the  traveller  will  find  ac- 
commodation, and  where  it  is  recommended  to 
him  to  take  up  his  quarters  during  his  stay.  It  is 
situated  on  a  small  meadow,  probably  formed  at 
an  early  period,  when  the  water  of  the  Saco  was 
set  back  and  overfl.)wed  the  neighboring  surface, 
before  the  convulsion  occurred  by  which  the 
Notch  was  formed,  and  a  passage  was  opened  to  it. 
A  traveller  arriving  at  this  spot  from  the  west- 
ward, can  hardly  paint  in  his  own  imagination  an 
adequate  picture  of  the  wild  and  magnificent  ob- 
jects which  await  him  along  the  route  ;  and  he  who 
has  already  passed  among  them  will  never  be  able 
to  erase  the  impression  from  his  memory. 

A  road  was  first  made  through  the  Notch  in 
1785.  It  was  50  or  60  feet  higher  than  the  pre- 
sent turnpike,  and  so  steep  that  it  was  necessary 
to  draw  horses  and  wagons  up  with  ropes.  The 
assessment  for  the  turnpike  was  made  in  1800. 

Two  rocks  stand  at  the  sides  of  this  remarkable 
passage,  one  20,  and  the  other  30  feet,  in  perpen- 
dicular height.  They  are  about  20  feet  asunder, 
atGor  Tyards  from  the  north  end  ;  then  they  open 


to 
cu 

N( 
lei 


ill 


MOUNT    WASHINGTON. 


307 


lington, 
though 
the  lat- 
anch  of 
in  one 
re  both 
aters  of 
d  a  half 
le,  little 

been  re- 
find  ac- 
nded   to 
f.     It  is 
rmed  at 
aco  was 
surface, 
ich    the 
ed  to  it. 
e  west- 
ition  an 
ent  ob- 
le  who 
be  able 

otch  in 
he  pre- 
cessary 
The 
800. 
arkable 
3erpen- 
sunder, 
jy  open 


to  30  feet.  The  part  which  appears  to  have  been 
cut  through  is  about  l20  feet  Itnig.  From  the 
Notch  meadow  after  a  ride  of  4^  miles,  the  travel- 
ler reaches 

Ethan  A  Crawford's  House,  The  master  of 
the  house  also  will  act  as  a  guide,  and  is  qualified 
for  the  office,  both  by  his  intimate  acquaintance 
with  the  way,  and  the  various  kind  attentions  and 
amusing  anecdotes  with  which  he  knows  how  to 
relieve  the  tediousness  of  the  ascent.  The  best 
arrangement  is  to  set  out  in  the  afternoon,  spend 
the  night  at  the  wigwam  or  "  Cam/>,"  ascend  the 
mountain  early  in  the  morning,  to  have  the  benefit 
of  the  view  by  sunrise,  and  return  to  the  inn  before 
the  ensuing  evening.  It  is  6  or  7  miles  to  the 
**  Camp,"  3  of  which  are  passable  in  a  carriage, 
and  the  rest  on  horseback. 

MOUNT  WASHINGTON.  The  ascent  of  the 
mountain  was  formerly  a  most  arduous  undertak- 
ing, and  was  very  rarely  performed,  but  even  la- 
dies have  since  been  enumerated  among  ihose  wbo 
have  gained  the  summit.  The  whole  way  lies 
through  a  perfect  forest.  The  first  (i  or  7  miles 
are  over  a  surface  comparatively  Irvel ;  but  the 
last  two  miles  and  a  quarter  are  up  an  ascent  not 
differing  much  from  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 
The  time  to  perform  the  different  parts  of  this 
excursion  may  be  estimated  as  follows : 

hours. 
From  the  inn  to  the  camp,      ....     2 
Thence  to  the  summit,  2  miles  and  93  rods,  2  or  2J 
Returning  from  summit  to  camp,      .     .     1^ 

Thence  to  the  inn, 2 

The  streams  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River,  which 


:A 


,[ 


308 


THE    WHITE    MOUNTAI.VS. 


1 

■ 

1 

1 

1 

11 

are  to  be  crossed  seven  times,  show  tlie  ravages 
of  the  inundation  of  18^6,  but  a  comfortable  bed, 
and  d.  fire,  (if  the  weather  be  chill,)  will  be  found 
very  welcome  at 

The  Camp,  63  miles  from  Crawford's.  Here 
provisions  of  different  kinds  will  be  produced;  and 
even  cooked  by  a  cheerful  fire  ;  and  fine  trout  may 
be  obtained  from  the  romantic  little  stream  which 
dashes  by  wiihin  a  short  distance. 

I'he  ascent  of  Mount  Washington  begins  just 
at  hand.  The  first  part  of  the  way  is  through  a 
thick  forest  of  heavy  timber,  which  is  suddenly 
succeeded  by  a  girdle  of  dwarf  and  knarled  fir- 
trees,  10  or  15  feet  high,  and  80  rods,  or  about 
450  yards  broad  ;  which,  ending  as  suddenly  as 
they  began,  give  place  to  a  kind  of  short  buiihes, 
and  finally  a  thin  bed  of  moss,  not  half  sufficient 
to  conceal  the  immense  granite  rocks  which  de- 
*'orni  the  surface.  For  more  than  i  mile,  the  sur- 
face is  entirely  destitute  of  trees.  A  few  strag- 
gling spiders,  and  several  species  of  little  flower- 
ing plants,  are  the  only  objects  that  attract  the  at- 
tention, under  the  feet.  The  following  heights  f^re 
stated  t<»  be  those  of  the  different  peaks,  above  Me 
level  of  Connecticut  River  at  Lancaster:  Wash- 
ington, 5,350;  Jefferson,  5^26];  Adams,  5,183; 
Madison,  6,039  ;  Monroe,  4,932  ;  Quiiicy,  4,470. 
Mount  Washington  is  believed  to  be  more  than 
6,400  feet  above  the  ocean. 

In  a  clear  atmosphere  the  view  is  sublinie,  and 
almost  boundless.  The  fi.iest  [nut  of '«  is  towaids 
the  south-cast  and  soidh.  Loidving  down  the  val- 
ley^ through  which  the  roud  has  conducted  us,  a 
fine  succession  of  mountainous  summits  appear  for 


MOUNT    WASHINGTON. 


309 


Inany  miles,  extending  beyond  the  bright  surface 
of  Winnipiseogee  Lake. 

Towards  the  south-east  also,  the  eye  ranges 
over  an  extent  of  surface,  which  quite  bewilders 
the  mind.  Mountains,  hills,  and  valleys,  farm 
houses,  villages,  and  towns,  add  their  variety  to 
the  natural  features  of  the  country  ;  and  the  ocean 
may  be  discovered  at  the  horizon  with  the  help  of 
a  telescope,  although  the  sharpest  sight  has  never 
been  able  to  distinguish  it  without  such  assistance. 
In  that  direction  lies  Portland,  the  capital  of 
Maine  ;  and  nearer,  Lovel's  Pond. 

On  the  north-east  is  seen  the  valley  of  the  An- 
droscoggin River,  which  abounds  in  wild  and  ro- 
mantic scenery,  and  was  the  usual  passage  by 
which  the  Indians,  in  their  hostile  incursions  from 
Canada,  used  to  approach  the  eastern  frontier  set- 
tlements of  Massachusetts  and  New-Hampshire. 
Beyond,  are  the  Ktardin  Hills,  near  the  extremity 
of  Maine. 

North,  the  country  is  more  wild  and  uncultiva- 
ted ;  and  the  llmbagog  Lake  is  seen,  from  which 
flows  the  Androscoggin. 

West,  the  nearer  view  is  over  a  mountainous 
region,  covered  with  a  thick  forest,  thiough  which 
only  an  occasional  opening  is  perceived,  formed 
by  the  farms  (or  clearings)  of  the  hardy  inhabi- 
tants. Beyond,  the  hills  are  seen  to  rise  from  the 
opposite  shore  of  Connecticut  River,  the  surface 
of  which  is  every  where  hidden  from  view,  and 
the  summits,  rising  higher  and  higher,  terminate 
in  the  ridires  of  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont. 
South-westerly  is  seen  the  (irand  Monad  nock. 
The  Indians  knew  the  White  Mountains  by  the 

26 


i» 


M 


M^ 


i!"! 


m 


I.     ■:'■     Lh 


310 


THE    WHITE   MOUNTAINS. 


name  of  Agiocochook,  and  regarded  them  as  inac- 
cessible, or  at  least  represented  them  so  to  white 
men. 

The  Lake  of  the  Clouds  is  a  little  pond,  near 
the  summit  of  Mount  Monroe,  of  beautiful  clear 
water;  and  supplies  the  head  stream  of  the  Am- 
monoosuc  River.  This  little  current  immediately 
begins  its  descent,  and  dashes  in  a  headlong  course 
of  several  thousand  feet,  into  the  valley  near  the 
encampment. 

Geology,  Loose  fragments  of  granite  are  eve- 
ry where  scattered  over  the  mountain,  with  some 
specimens  of  gneiss.  The  granite  is  generally 
gray,  and  at  first  line-grained,  but  grows  coarser 
as  we  ascend,  and  is  occasionally  sprinkled  with 
small  garnets.  At  the  summii  it  frequently  con- 
tains a  little  black  tourmaline,  sometimes  in  cross- 
ing crystals.  On  the  summit,  also,  some  of  the 
granite  is  tinged  with  red,  although  much  of  it  is 
colored  bright  green  by  lichens,  dampened  by  the 
humidity  of  the  clouds,  and  interspersed  with 
thick  and  sofl  gray  moss.  The  grain  of  the  coarse 
granite  is  elongated  ;  and  what  strikes  the  visiter 
as  very  singular  is,  that  not  a  single  rock  is  to  be 
found  in  its  original  place — every  thing  bears  the 
mark  of  remo\al;  and  this,  taken  into  view  with 
the  precipice  on  the  northern  side,  seems  to  indi- 
cate that  the  summit  of  the  mountain  has  fallen 
down  and  disappeared. 

The  general  belief  now  seems  to  be,  that  the 
lofty  peak  above  us  is  the  highest  elevation  in 
North  America,  except  Mexico  and  some  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  The  only  places  susceptible 
of  cultivation  in  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  are 


;m  as  mac- 
o  to  white 

pond,  near 
utiful  clear 
f  the  Am- 
[imediately 
ong  course 
y  near  the 

te  are  eve- 
with  some 
5  generally 
ws  coarser 
ikled  with 
uently  con- 
es in  cross- 
some  of  the 
luch  of  it  is 
!ned  by  the 
ersed  with 
f  the  coarse 

the  visiter 
ck  is  to  be 
\g  bears  the 
3  view  with 
ems  to  indi- 

has  fallen 

e,  that  the 
elevation  in 
ome  of  the 
susceptible 
untains,  are 


\ 


f^ 


1 

11 

1 

i 

■1 

L=^ 


i''  ■Mm   1 


lliiiiiiil!!' 


|K 


i<\ 


J 


MOUNT   WASHINGTON. 


311 


the  little  meadows  inhabited  by  the  Crawfords, 
the  Notch,  and  Willey  Meadows  ;  and  there  the 
interval  of  warm  weather  is  so  short  in  the  year, 
that  few  vegetables  can  arrive  at  maturity,  with 
all  the  rapidity  of  growth  which  distinguishes 
such  cold  regions. 

Various  kinds  of  wild  birds  and  game  are  to  be 
found  in  the  woods,  besides  bears,  wild  cats,  and 
deer.  The  moose  and  buflaki  were  formerly 
abundant  among  the  mountains  ;  and  it  is  scarcely 
thirty  years  since  they  were  killed  in  great  num- 
bers, merely  for  their  hides  and  tallow  ;  as  the  lat- 
ter still  are  in  the  deserts  beyond  the  Mississippi* 
Deer  are  common  in  the  woods,  and  frequently  are 
killed  by  the  hunters.  Sometimes  they  come 
boldly  down  into  the  little  meadow  before  Craw- 
ford's house,  and  quietly  graze  with  the  cattle. 
The  black  bear  are  occasionally  seen  in  the  more 
unfrequented  places;  but  they  will  always  endea- 
vor to  avoid  a  m.n.  A  large  species  of  elk,  the 
Cariboo,  has  made  its  appearance  in  the  White 
Mountains  within  a  few  years. 

The  weather  is  liable  to  frequent  changes  in  the 
mountainous  region,  which  is  partly  owing  to  the 
vicinity  of  the  Notch,  through  which  the  wind 
blows,  almost  without  ceasing,  and  of  course,  al- 
ways north  or  south.  During  the  winter  it  is  of- 
ten very  violent,  so  that  the  surface  is  swept  of 
every  thing  that  a  strong  wind  can  remove.  The 
summits  of  the  mountains  are  frequently  invested 
with  mist,  when  the  sky  is  clear;  and  those  only 
who  inhabit  the  vicinity  are  able  to  tell  whether 
the  day  is  to  be  favorable  for  the  ascent.  The 
mists  sometimes  collect  in  the  valleys,  and  then 


t!ii 


312 


THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


present  some  of  the  most  singular  and  beautiful 
appearances. 

Roads,  There  are  two  roads  hence  to  ConneC" 
ticut  River ;  one  over  Cherry  Mountain  (very  la- 
borious) to  Lancaster  ;  the  other,  shorter,  through 
Breton  Woods,  Bethlehem,  and  Littleton,  (rough 
and  stony)  to  Bath,  34  miles.     [See  Index.'] 


'U 


int 


LUtiful 

mnec- 
jry  la- 
iiough 
[rough 


BOSTON   TO    MAINE. 


Sid 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  MAINE. 

Steamboats  run  to  Boston,  Portland  and  Bath, 
and  on  to  Eastport;  40  miles,  to  Augusta,  in  an- 
other direction ;  and  about  70  miles,  from  East- 
port  to  St.  John's,  in  New-Brunswick — proprie- 
tors residing  at  Eastport;  and  from  St.  John's  up 
the  River  St.  John's  about  80  miles  to  Frederick- 
town,  by  proprietors  residing  at  St.  John's  ;  and 
in  another  direction  by  the  Eastport  proprietors, 
from  Eastport  about  30  miles  on  the  Schoodic  to 
St.  Andrew's  and  Calais.  Two  boats  were  after- 
ward put  upon  a  line  from  Eastport  to  Annapolis 
and  Windsor,  in  Nova  Scotia.  Another  boat  is 
run  from  Eastport  to  Dennisville,  a  distance  of  20 
or  30  miles.  The  line  before  occupied,  including 
all  its  collateral  branches  and  ramifications,  ex- 
ceeds 600  miles,  and  is  now  about  700  miles. 

It  is  proposed  in  Boston,  to  enlarge  the  canal 
across  Cape  Ann,  to  admit  the  steamboats,  which 
will  save  lo  miles,  and  give  an  opportunity  to  com- 
municate, directly  or  by  smaller  boats,  with  Glou- 
cester, Newburyport,  Portsmouth,  Dover,  and 
Kennebunk. 

Tiie  boats  go  about  100  miles  a  day,  and  pass 
so  near  the  shore  as  to  afford  many  interesting 
views  of  the  numerous  islands,  points,  and  bays, 
which  abound  along  the  coast.  In  1826,  the 
steamboat  was  burned  on  this  line.  The  price 
was,  from  Boston  to  Portland,  $5;  thence  to 
Eastport,  $6,  with  a  deduction  for  forward  pas- 
sengers. 

There  are  coaches  going  to  Salem  every  hour 
in  the  morning  and  forenoon ;  and  it  may,  perhaps^ 

26* 


lii 


'',:    I 


hin 


it 


314 


ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  MAINE. 


be  convenient  lo  lake  a  seat  in  one  of  them,  as 
Salem  is  well  vvorlhy  of  at  least  a  day's  delay. 
Indeed,  if  convenient,  the  stranger  will  be  grati- 
fied with  several  rides  in  the  vicinity  of  that  place, 
particularly  to  Marblehead. 

Lynn,  9  miles  from  Boston,  is  devoted  to  ma- 
king shoes  ;  great  numbers  of  which  are  annually 
exported.  Each  house  has  a  little  shop  in  which 
the  men  and  boys  employ  themselves  in  this  man- 
ufacture. Therr  are  from  70  to  80  manufacturers 
of  shoes,  ar  '  jrobably  not  far  from  1500  opera- 
tives. Som  ol  he  manufacturers  employ  50 
hands  each,  and  on*  *3  said  to  manufacture  l2()0 
pair  per  week.  There  is  a  mineral  spring  in  this 
town,  which  was  celebrated  many  years  ago. 
Lynn  Beach  Hes  on  the  way  to  the  fashionable  re- 
treat at  Nahant.  It  is  of  hard  sand,  offering  ai\ 
excellent  natural  road,  but  is  impassable  at  high 
water.  The  bay  on  which  it  looks  is  one  of  the 
places  where  the  famous  sea  serpent  was  seen  sev- 
eral years  ago. 

Beverly  joins  Salem  so  closely,  as  apparently 
to  form  a  part  of  it.  It  has  a  long  street  nearly 
at  the  foot  of  a  high  hill,  remarkable  in  the  histo- 
ry of  witchcraft,  as  the  spot  where  numerous 
persons,  condemned  for  that  crime,  in  Salem,  were 
executed. 

SALEM  is  one  of  the  most  populous,  wealthy, 
and  beautiful  towns  in  New-England.  It  was  one 
of  the  earliest  settlements  made  in  Massachusetts 
Bay,  (1G26);  and  the  planting  of  the  colony  is 
annually  celebrated. 

Salem  was  for  many  years  engaged  in  an  ex- 
tensive and  lucrative  commerce,  particulany  with 


I 


Bm,   as 

delay. 

grati- 
t  place, 

to  ma- 
nnually 

which 
is  man- 
icturers 

opera- 
)lov  60 
re*l200 
T  in  this 
irs  ago. 
lable  re- 
ring  avv 
at  high 
\i  of  the 
een  sev- 

parently 

nearly 

le  histo- 

timerous 

m,  were 

wealthy, 
was  one 
chusetts 

olony  is 

n  an  cx- 
iriv  with 


8ALEM. 


316 


China  ;«iancl  still  contains  a  great  deal  of  wealth. 
The  harbor  is  fine,  but  ilie  trade  of  the  place  has 
materially  diminished.  The  streets  arc  generally 
loo  narrow  ;  but  the  banks,  insurance  offices,  and 
churches  are  many  of  them  handsome  buildings. 
The  Square  is  a  lar^re  and  beautiful  tract  of  ground, 
near  the  centre  of  the  town.  About  it  are  seen 
many  of  the  finest  [)rivate  buildings  in  the  pla(!e. 

There  is  a  High  School  in  Salem,  besides  18 
public  and  58  private  schools. 

The  Marine  Museum  is  an  institution  highly 
creditable  to  the  town,  being  an  association  of  re- 
spectable nautical  and  commercial  '^dividuals, 
formed  for  the  purpose  of  making  usefid  bserva- 
tions,  and  collecting  curiosities  from  all  quarters 
of  the  world.  No  one  can  become  a  member  who 
has  not  doubled  Cape  Horn,  or  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  either  as  master  or  supercar;^  ^  of  a  vessel ; 
and  each  of  them  is  supplied  with  a  journal,  in 
which  he  is  to  note  down  remarks  during  his  voy- 
ages. These  are  submitted  to  the  inspection  of  a 
committee ;  and  the  curiosities  brought  home  are 
deposited  in  a  handsome  building  belonging  to  the 
society,  which  is  well  worthy  the  particular  atten- 
tion of  strangers. 

Access  is  readily  gained  by  application  to  any 
of  the  members.  The  room  is  l:iri:e,  well  lighted, 
and  filled  with  curiosities  from  all  quarters  of  the 
world.  The  arrangement  is  made  with  great  taste, 
and  several  hours,  or  indeed  days,  will  hardly  be 
sufficient  for  an  examination  of  all  it  contains. 

The  following  lines  were  written  after  a  visit 
to  this  interesting  institution,  by  Beltrami,  a  dis- 
tinguished scientific  traveller,  in  the  year  1827: 


if.ll 


If 


316 


nOUTl    FROM    BOSTON    TO    MAINE. 


'*  Siste  Viator!  Siste,  mirari !  est  Orbis  in  urbc, 
•*  Et  prabet  pulchruin  cuncta  miranda  Salem. — 
♦♦Obstupui,  hie  Superum,  hinc  hominum  prodi- 

gia  vidi, 
"Pontus,  Magna  Parens,  Ignis  ctlpse  favent. — 
•*0h,  America:    Oh,    felix   tcllus,    populuaque 

beatus ! 
•*Quam  nobis  toUunt  dant  tibi  fata  vicem. — 
The  top  of  the  hotel  commands  a  fine  and   ex- 
tensive view  over  the  town   and  its  environs,  with 
the  harbor,  and  the  fine  coves  which  set  up  on  both 
sides. 

Marblehead.  There  is  a  good  road  to  this 
town,  which  stands  at  the  end  of  a  rocky  promon- 
tory, 4  miles  south-east  from  Salem.  It  contains 
a  handsome  square,  and  some  very  good  houses; 
and  is  principally  inhabited  by  fishermen.  The 
harbor  is  a  small  bay,  protected  by  barren  rocks, 
and  affords  shelter  to  the  numerous  fishing  schoo- 
ners employed  in  the  cod  fishery.  The  men  and 
boys  are  absent  from  home  a  great  part  of  the 
year;  as  each  vessel  usually  makes  three  fishing 
voyages,  or  "/ares,"  every  season.  They  lie  on 
the  banks  until  they  have  caught  a  load  of  fish, 
which  are  opened  and  salted  as  soon  as  taken. 
The  vessels  then  return,  and  the  fish  are  spread  to 
dry  on  wooden  frames,  called  flakes;  great  num- 
bers of  which  will  be  seen  on  the  shore.  There 
is  a  fort  at  the  extremity  of  the  town,  which  com- 
mands the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  and  affords  a 
view  of  man}'^  miles  over  the  neighboring  sheets 
of  water.  The  islands  at  the  entrance  are  wild 
and  rocky ;  and  the  sea  breaks  over  them  with 
violence  in  an  easterly  storm.     Towards  the  south 


I 


1  urbCf 
lem. — 
prodi- 

rent. — 


nd   ex- 

s,  with 
:>nboth 

to    this 
romon- 
011  tains 
louses ; 
.     The 
I  rockst 
schoo- 
len  and 
of  the 
fishing 
lie  on 
of  fish, 
taken, 
read  to 
t  num- 
There 
com- 
brds  a 
sheets 
e  wild 


h 


n 


with 
e  south 


\ 


HAMPTON. 


317 


are   seen  several    headlands    of   this    iron-bound 
coast. 

Newburyport  is  a  ]'dr<re  town,  38  miles  from 
Boston.  The  greater  part  of  it  lies  in  s(jnares, 
and  the  best  streets  are  built  entirely  of  brick. 
"What  is  commonly  called  Newburyport,  however, 
is  composed  of  two  distinct  towns.  Newbury  in- 
cludes that  part  which  reaches  to  within  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  shore ;  and  the  rest,  a 
mile  along  the  water,  is,  properly  speaking,  New- 
buryport. 

The  Court  House  makes  a  handsome  appear- 
ance, at  the  head  of  a  street  running  to  the  river. 

The  monument  of  the  celebrated  Whitcjield  is 
to  be  seen  in  the  First  Presbyterian  Churcfiin  this 
town,  where  his  remains  lie  interred. 

The  harbor  is  fine,  and  the  place  once  enjoyed 
a  brisk  and  lucrative  commerce;  but  it  has  suffered 
severely  from  two  great  fires,  within  a  few  years, 
and  still  more  from  circumstances  which  cut  off 
the  trade. 

The  bridge  over  the  Merrimack  is  a  most  beau- 
tiful structure.  Its  length  is  1000  feet;  and  it  has 
four  arches  and  a  draw-bridge,  on  the  side  tow- 
ards the  town.  The  arches  are  supported  by 
twelve  chains,  carried  over  four  towers  in  the  form 
of  pyramids,  31  feet  above  high  water  mark. 
The  bases  of  these  towers  are  of  hewn  stone,  40 
by  30  feet,  built  on  timber,  each  with  a  breakwa- 
ter up  the  stream.  The  chains,  separately,  are 
strong  enough  to  bear  22  tons.  The  bridge,  with 
the  road  to  Newburyport,  cost  ^66,000. 

Hampton^  10  miles.  At  Hampton  Beach  is  a 
good  hotel,  which  commands  an  agreeable  view 


318 


ROUTE    FROM    BOSTON   TO    MAINE. 


upon   the  ocean,  and  the  shore  about  the  Boar's 
iJe.cd. 

Portsmouth,  G2  iiiiles  from  Boston,  58  from 
Portland,  The  environs  of  the  town  show  many 
neat  and  pleasant  houses  of  wood;  and  the  middle 
part  of  it  is  principally  of  brick,  with  some  hand- 
some public  buildings,  although  the  streets  are 
generally  narrow.  It  has  been  a  place  of  much 
commerce.  The  Navy  Yard,  on  an  island  oppo- 
site the  town,  contains  two  large  ship  buildings, 
one  for  frigates  and  the  other  for  line-of-battle 
ships. 

The  bridge  across  the  Piscataqua,  leads  into  the 
state  of  Maine.     The  current  is  very  strong. 

[Amesbury  is  a  manufacturing  place  on  the  Po- 
wow  River,  3  miles  from  Newburyport.  The 
river  is  made  to  drain  several  ponds  by  an  arched 
tunnel  dug  through   a  hill  about  a  century  ago. 

The  country  on  this  road  is  generally  very  poor, 
without  trees,  changing  only  from  sand  to  rocks; 
and  aff  »rds  very  few  objects  of  interest,  except 
an  occasional  view  of  the  seashore,  and  several 
spots  remarkable  for  their  connexion  with  the  his- 
tory of  the  country. 

York.  There  are  some  pleasant  fields  about 
this  little  place,  but  its  size  is  insignificant,  par- 
ticularly when  contrasted  with  the  anticipations 
formed  of  its  destiny  at  the  time  of  its  first  settle- 
ment; for  the  ground  was  laid  out  for  a  city,  and 
the  divisions  of  the  land  still  retain  much  of  the 
regular  form  given  it  by  the  first  surveyors. 

The  Nibble  is  a  rocky  point,  4^  miles  from 
York,  with  a  cluster  of  miserable  huts  in  the  rear, 
called,  in  derision,  the  city,  or  metropolis  of  Cape 


WELLES. 


319 


•oar's 


from 
many 
liddle 
hand- 
s  are 
much 
oppo- 
dings, 
battle 

ito  the 

lePo- 

The 
irched 
y  ago. 
'  poor, 

ocks; 

xcept 
everal 

e  his- 

about 
par" 
lations 
Isettle- 
,  and 
if  the 

from 
rear. 
Cape 


Neddock,  from  a  point  of  that  name  still  further 
on. 

While  travelling  along  this  dreary  country,  near 
the  place  where  a  round  hill  of  a  peruhar  appear- 
ance tirst  presents  itself  in  front,  and  then  the 
ocean,  the  road  passes  the  site  of  an  old  fort  or 
blockhouse,  built  before  Philip's  Wi^r.  Nothing 
is  now  to  be  seen  of  it  from  the  road,  excepting 
a  part  of  the  old  wall,  which  is  built  of  large 
stones,  laid  with  greater  regularity  than  is  practi- 
eed  now. 

The  Agamenticus  Hills  form  a  range  some  dis- 
tance west. 

Lower  Welles,  There  is  a  little  harbor  here, 
defended  by  a  sand  bar,  with  a  narrow  entrance 
under  a  rock  ;  but  it  is  almost  dry  at  low  water. 

Welles*  The  sea  often  breaks  beautifully  on 
the  beach,  in  front  of  the  tavern.  Porpoise  point 
is  just  distinguished  in  the  north-east;  and  the 
view  of  the  sea  is  fine  and  refreshing. 

Three  miles  beyond  is  Breakneck  Hill,  over 
which  falls  a  small  stream,  from  the  height  of  30 
feet,  about  40  yards  from  the  path.  Here,  says  a 
blind  tradition,  a  small  tribe  of  Indians  met  an  in- 
discriminate destruction,  in  the  following  manner. 
Being  on  their  return  from  their  annual  tishing  ex- 
cursion on  the  upper  part  of  the  stream,  they  de- 
spatched some  of  their  number  to  make  a  fire  on 
the  rock  which  divides  the  falls,  as  they  found 
they  should  not  reach  this  place  before  night. 
The  wK'te  men  in  the  neighborhood,  by  some 
means  learning  their  design,  shot  the  messengers, 
and  then  collecting  the  limbs  of  trees,  made  a 
great  fire  on  the  high  bank  below  on  the  opposite 


ft; 


K    I 


m 


W 


■  i 
< 

4 

■  i 
:1 

J 

1 

1. 

^-'       tl 

HL 

320 


ROUTE    IN    MAINE. 


] 


side  of  the  road.  The  Indians,  says  the  story, 
being  deceived,  did  not  attempt  to  stop  their  ca- 
noes in  seajion,  and  were  all  carried  over  the  falls 
and  killed.  A  similar  tale  is  r(dated,  with  more 
appearance  of  credibility,  of  the  falls  on  the  An- 
droscogjrin  River. 

The  Fort  was  half  a  mile  beyond,  or  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  north  from  the  church.  The  site  is  dis- 
tinguished by  the  anolc  of  an  old  wall,  built  of 
large,  regular,  but  unliewn  stones,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  road.  This  litth;  fortress  was  once  attacked 
by  500  Indians,  but  very  bravely  and  successfully 
defended  by  live  women,  who  put  on  their  hus- 
bands' clothes,  and  iircd  so  warmly  upon  their  in- 
vaders, as  to  force  their,  to  retreat. 

Kennchunk,  25  miles  from  Portland,  is  a  small 
place,  but  once  carried  on  a  considerable  lumber 
trade  with  the  West  Indies. 

SacOy  fifteen  miles  from  Portland.  Just  south 
of  this  village  is  the  mouth  of  the  Saco,  which 
rises  on  Mount  Washington.  Cutt's  Island  of  75 
acres  divides  the  stream,  just  at  the  falls,  and  has 
been  convened  to  n^^nufacturing  purposes. 
PORTLXNl),   15  miles. 

The  situation  of  this  place  is  remarkably  fine, 
occupying  the  ridge  and  side  of  a  high  point  of 
land  with  a  handsome,  though  shallow  bav,  on  one 
side,  and  the  harbor  on  the  other.  The  anchorage 
is  protected  on  every  side  by  land,  the  water  is 
deep,  and  the  communication  with  the  sea  direct 
and  convenient.  Congress-street  runs  along  the 
ridge  of  the  hill,  and  contains  a  number  of  very 
elegant  private  houses.  There  is  also  the  Town 
Hall,  with  the  Market  below,  the  Custom-House, 


f 


s 

V 


CAPE    ELIZABETH. 


321 


e  story, 
heir  ca- 
ihe  falls 
th  more 
1  the  An- 

1  quarter 
ite  is  dis- 
built  of 
cast  side 
■  attacked 
!cessfully 
[heir  hus- 
1  iheir  in- 

is  a  small 
ie  lumber 

ust  south 
(),  which 
and  of  75 
and  has 

|«cs. 

ably  fine, 
[1  point  of 
ay,  on  one 
laiichorage 
water  is 
Isca  direct 
along  the 
Y  of  very 
the  Town 
.m-Uouse, 


Bnda  church,  with  granite  columns.  This  street 
rises,  as  it  approaches  the  end  of  the  neck,  or 
promontory,  to  tlie  Observatory,  a  tower  82  feet 
high,  and,  with  its  base,  14*2  feet  above  the  water  : 
south  and  south-west  are  several  distant  eminen- 
ces:  among  others,  the  Agamenticus  Hills; 
north-west  are  seen,  in  clear  weather,  the  lofty 
ridges  and  peaks  of  the  White  Hills  in  New-Hamp- 
shire, which  are  discovered  at  sea,  often  before 
the  nearer  land  appears  in  sight.  The  country 
on  the  north  presents  little  that  is  interesting,  and 
the  water  nearer  at  hand  is  only  an  inlet  of  the 
sea. 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  the  highland  on  the  south 
side  of  the  harbor  ;  and  the  islands,  which  nearly 
close  its  entrance,  are  called  Bang's  and  House 
Islands.  Fort  Preble  stands  on  the  former,  and 
Fort  Scammel,  only  a  blockhouse,  on  the   latter. 

he   United  States  to 


prop) 


by 


:pen« 


$165,000  in  enlarging  these  defences.  Due  east 
is  Heguin  Lightliouse,  visible  in  clear  weather,  32 
miles  distant,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec. 
Nearer,  and  in  the  same  quarter,  lie  numerous  isl- 
ands of  various  forms,  and  divided  by  little  chan- 
nels and  bays,  some  of  which  are  deep.  They 
are  generally  covered  with  trees  and  rocks,  but 
present  a  beautiful  variety  to  the  view  in  that  di- 
rection. Their  number  is  usually  estimated  at 
365,  to  correspond  with  that  of  the  days  in  the 
year. 

Schools.  In  Maine,  the  Public  Schools  are  sup- 
ported by  a  tax  of  at  least  4o  cents  on  each  per- 
son in  the  towns  to  which  they  belong,  which, 
with  other  resources  furnished  for  the  schools,  in 

27 


I 


m 

*  r 


322 


ROUTE    IN    MAINE. 


1825,  nearly  $140,000.  One  person  out  of  three 
then  attended  school.  The  constitution  requires 
the  cherishing  of  high  schools,  colleges,  &-c. 

The  intrenchments  on  the  hill,  west  of  the  Ob- 
servatory, belong  to  Fort  Sumner,   and    part   of 

them  were  made  in  the   Revolutionary  war.     Un- 

•I 

der  the  bluff,  on  the  watsr's  edge,  is  Fort  Bur- 
roughs. 

Falmouth  (the  former  name  of  Portland)  was 
burnt,  in  the  Revolutionary  war  by  Capt,  Mowatt, 
in  the  British  sloop  of  war  Canceau,  on  the  18th 
of  October,  1775,  on  the  refusal  of  the  inhabit- 
ants to  deliver  up  their  arms.  About  130  houses, 
three-quarters  of  all  the  place  contained,  were 
consumed,  some  being  set  on  fire  with  brands, 
after  a  cannonade  and  bombardment  of  9  hours. 
The  old  church  was  among  the  buildings  saved, 
and  has  the  mark  of  a  cannon  shot  in  it.  A  small 
part  of  Mitchell's  hotel  belonged  to  one  of  the 
houstis  not  destroyed. 

There  is  a  small  Museum  in  the  place.  At  the 
Athenaeum  will  be  found  newspapers  from  diffe- 
rent parts  of  the  country,  a  library,  &.c.  There 
is  a  Female  Orphan  \sylum. 

In  consequence  of  the  position,  the  climate,  and 
soil  of  Maine,  the  improvement  of  the  country 
has  been  much  retarded.  Settlements  were  made 
on  the  coast  as  early  as  1C07,  and  several  others 
not  long  afterward  ;  but  they  suffered  severely  in 
the  Indian  wars,  and  their  vicinity  to  the  French 
missions,  which  embraced  all  the  eastern  part  of 
the  present  stute,  exposed  them  to  imminent  dan- 
ger. In  later  times  the  population  was  principally 
confined  to  the  seacoast,  for  the  convenience  of 


)f  three 
•equires 

the  Ob- 
part  of 
r.  Un- 
)rt  Bur- 

nd)  was 
Mowatt, 
the  18th 
inhabit- 
)  houses, 
jd,    were 
1  brands, 
9  hours. 
rs   saved, 
A  small 
le  of  the 

At  the 

)m   diffe- 

There 

Inate,  and 
country 

lere  made 

lal  others 
verely  in 

le  French 

part  of 

leiit  dan- 

incipally 

lience  of 


ROUTE    FROM    PORTLAND. 


323 


■'M 


-P 


fishing  and  commerce,  and  thus  ihs  good  land, 
which  lies  some  distance  back  in  the  cojintry,  was 
almost  entirely  neglected,  Affer  the  revukitionary 
war,  this  extensive  region  remained  in  the  condi- 
tion of  a  district  belonging  to  Massachusetts. 
Within  a  few  years  it  hrs  been  received  into  the 
Union  as  a  separate  state  ;  and  agriculture  having 
been  introduced,  the  emigration  from  the  neigh- 
boring states  has  rapidly  swelled  its  population. 
In  1828  there  were  33  newspapers  in  the  state  of 
Maine. 

In  travelling  in  Maine,  the  stranger  observes 
the  same  order  of  things  as  in  the  interior  of  New- 
York,  Ohio,  and  other  prrts  of  the  country  wliich 
are  fast  improving.  That  is  the  most  attractive 
rofjte  for  the  traveller ;  and  the  road  from  Port- 
land lies  through  Augusta  and  Hallowell. 

Most  persons  going  eastward  from  Portland, 
will  wish  to  return  ;  and  the  brief  tour  which  we 
shall  give  will  be  planned  for  their  convenience 
and  pleasure,  by  proceeding  first  along  the  sea- 
coast,  and  then  returning  through  the  fine  tract  of 
country  in  the  interior. 

Two  roads  have  been  projected  to  Quebec  ;  one 
by  the  Ri  er  Kennebec,  and  the  other  by  the  Pe- 
nobscot. 

Route  from  Portland  to  Belfast,  Castine, 

Ban  OCR,  &c. 

Travelling  round  to  the  head  of  Casco  Bay,  you 
pass  through  North  Yarmouth  and  Freeport,  and 
arrive  at 

Brunswick,  26  miles  from  Portland,  on  the 
Androscoggin,  is  the  seat  of  Bowdoin  College, 
which  is  on  a  plain  near  the  river.  It  was  incor- 
porated in  1794,  and  has  a  chemical  and  philoso- 


324 


ROUTE    IN    MAINK. 


lit 


phical  appnrntns,  a  mineralogical  cabinr*  an^  v:.. 
library  of*  3000  voluinfs.  A  medical  school  isat- 
tachijd  to  it.  Tlic  comnionremciit  is  in  ti^e  'st 
vet'k  of  Scptembor.  Annual  cxponces  :  tuUi(  n, 
$24;  room,  $10;  board  in  commons,  ,fl5;  ma- 
king all,  incliidinir  fnel,  furniture,  books,  wasbing, 
&c.  $115.     Students  in  1833,  115. 

There  is  a  fall  on  the  Androscoggin  river  at 
this  place  ;  below  which  booms  are  extended  across 
to  keep  together  the  lumber  which  is  brought 
down  every  season  in  great  quantities. 

The  whole  road  from  Portland  to  Bath,  34 
miles,  lies  along  the  coast,  where  the  soil  is  rocky 
and  poor. 

Bath  is  a  town  of  considerable  trade,  situated 
on  the  Kennebec,  at  the  distance  of  10  miles  from 
the  sea.  Here  are  several  public  buildings,  nnd 
among  the  rest,  two  banks. 

WiscAssET,  14  miles  from  Bath.  This  is  one 
of  the  principal  ports  of  the  state,  and  has  an  ex- 
cellent harbor,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sheepscot 
River. 

Stage  Coaches  run  north  to  Bangor,  on  the  Pe- 
nobscot, through  Newcastle,  Nobleborough,  Wal- 
doborough.  Union,  Appletc;  .,  .Searsmoni,  and  Bel- 
mont. Th.^re  are  two  biaiich  lines:  one  to 
Thomastown  through  Warren  ;  and  another  to 
Hamden,  through  Camden,  Lincolnshire,  North- 
port,  Belfast,  Swanville,  and  Frankfort. 

From  Wiscasset  to  Damascotta  is  ronorh  and 
rocky;  but  the  ride  presents  many  interesting 
views,  as  the  land.-cape  is  continually  changing, 
and  is  often  varied  by  the  sight  of  Damascotta 
Hiver,  and  several  beautiful  little  lakes  or  ponds. 


TH0MA8T0WN. 


325 


)o]  U  ai  • 

the    'st 

tiiiii(  n, 

15;  ma- 

A' ashing, 

river    at 

3d  across 

brought 

Bath,   34 
1  is  rocky 

situated 
iles  iVom 
ngs,    a.)d 

*s  is  one 
is  an  ex- 
leepscot 

the  Pe- 
gh,  Wal- 

and  Bel- 
one   to 

other  to 
North- 

)no[h  and 
tcresting 
hanging, 
mascotta 
r  ponds. 


Damascotta  Bridge.  Here  is  a  corisiderable 
village,  at  the  distance  of  16  inilcj  frunri  the  sea- 
coast. 

Booth  Bay  lies  off  the  road  from  Wiscasset  to 
Damascotta.  It  has  a  commodious  harbor,  with 
a  number  of  islands  in  the  vicinity  ;  and  the  neigh- 
boring high  ground  aflbrds  a  very  fine  and  exten- 
sive view. 

Two  or  three  miles  ofl  the  road,  between  Lin- 
niken^s  Bay  and  Damas?cotta  River,  where  was 
formerly  an  Indian  carrying-place,  the  remains  of 
cellar  walls  and  chimneys  are  found,  as  also  bro- 
ken kettles,  wedges,  &c.  Sir  John  Popham  made 
an  attempt  to  build  a  town  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kennebec,  in  the  year  1607. 

VValdoborough,  10  miles.  Warren,  7  miles. 
Thomastown,  Central  Village^  6  miles.  Here 
are  quarries  of  marble  and  limestone,  from  the 
latter  of  which  about  100,000  barrels  of  lime  are 
made  every  year  for  exportation.  The  marble  is 
also  wrought  in  considerable  quantities.  Polish- 
ing is  performed  by  machinery  moved  by  water. 
The  village  is  15  miles  fiom  the  sea. 

The  State  Prison  stands  in  a  commanding  and 
pleasant  situation,  has  5)  solitary  cells,  built  of 
granite,  in  blocks  from  4  to  6  feet  in  length,  and  2 
in  thickness,  with  an  openir>g  at  the  top,  and  small 
holes  in  the  walls  for  fresh  air,  which,  during  the 
winter,  is  warmed  before  it  is  admitted.  The 
Warden's  house  is  also  built  of  granite,  and  is  two 
stories  high,  placed  in  the  middle,  with  a  row  of 
cells  on  each  side.  The  prison  yard  is  surround- 
ed by  a  circular  wooden  paling,  and  encloses  nearly 
three  acres,  in  which  is  a  lime  quarry.     Several 

27* 


It 


\\ 


II 

I 


326 


ROUTE    ll'i    MAINE. 


1 


workshops  on  the  ground  serve  the  purposes  of 
the  convicts,  who  are  employed  in  hurning  Jime 
and  other  nianiiractures. 

The  Knox  Estate.  Ahont  half  a  mile  from  the 
State  Prison  is  the  ancient  residence  of  the  late 
General  Knox,  3  stoiies  hi«^h,  large  and  elegant. 

From  Thomastown  to  Belfast^  (30  miles,)  the 
road  commands  many  views  of  Penobscot  Bay, 
with  a  few  islands  on  the  right,  and  a  partially 
cultivated  country  on  the  left,  with  some  moun- 
tainous scenes.  Belfast  is  a  flourishing  port, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  side  of  a  hill.  The  road 
hence  to  Castine,  round  the  bay,  is  35  miles,  pass- 
ing through  Prospect,  Buckport,  Orland,  and  Pe- 
nobscot. 

Castine  was  taken  during  the  late  war  by  a  fleet, 
and  tlie  British  intrenchments  are  to  be  seen  on 
the  hill  above. 

Eastport  is  the  frontier  post  of  the  U.  States 
on  the  seacoast  towards  the  British  possessions. 
It  is  on  ihe  south-eastern  part  of  Moose  Island,  in 
Passamaquoddy  Bay,  and  connected  with  the  main 
land  by  a  bridge.  The  spot  was  almost  uninhabit- 
ed oO  years  ago  ;  but  now  it  contains  three  places 
of  worship.  There  are  fortifications  and  a  few 
troops.  A.  line  of  steamboats  is  established  be- 
tween this  place  and  Boston,  touching  at  Port- 
land, &c. 

The  roaa  from  Belfast  to  Bangor  lies  along  the 
cours^  c^"  the  Penobscot  River. 

Bangor,  i  lii  nrishing  village,  occupies  a  com- 
manding posi  iiOfi  for  business.  The  scenery  here 
begins  to  assume  much  of  that  mountainous  char- 
acter,   which   prevails   so  extensively  through  a 


-a 
.,f 


AUGUSTA. 


327 


oscs  of 
g  Jime 

orn  the 
he  late 
^gant. 
;s,)  the 
ot  Bay, 
artially 
moun- 
T  port, 
he  road 
3,  pass- 
md  Pe- 

r  a  fleet, 
seen  on 

States 
jssions. 
land,  in 
le  main 
nhabit- 
:  places 
a  few 
ed  be- 
Port- 


large  part  of  the  interior.  A  very  conspicuous 
eminence  is  observed  at  a  distance  in  the  north, 
called  Ktardin  Mountain,  the  hiiihest  land  in  the 
state. 

From  Bangor  we  begin  our  return  to  Portland, 
taking  the  route  through  the  finest  part  of  the 
state  of  Maine.  The  road  to  Augusta  and  Hal- 
lowell  on  the  Kennebec,  lies  through  a  region 
rapidly  improving  under  the  management  of  an 
active,  industrious,  and  increasing  population. 

Augusta  is  a  considerable  town,  and  very 
flourishing,  at  the  falls  of  the  Kennebec.  At  the 
mouth  of  this  river,  at  Georgetown,  beryls  have 
been  found,  in  a  ridge  of  graniie  country.  Some 
are  16  inches  long  and  6  thick.  They  are  associ- 
ated with  schorl. 


!l 


.» . 


m 


mg  the 


la  com- 

•y  here 

Is  char- 

►ugh  a 


S28 


CITV    OF    WASHINGTON. 


WASHINGTON. 


Gadshifs  HoteU  Pennsylvania  Avenue, — ^Nu- 
merous hotels  and  boarding-houses  also  oiFer  hand- 
some accommodations,  paiticularly  during  the 
sessions  of  Congress. 

The  seat  of  government  of  the  United  States  is 
situated  between  the  Potomac  River  and  its  east- 
ern branch,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  their 
junction.  It  is  divided  into  three  distinct  parts, 
the  Navy  Yard,  the  Capitol  Hill,  and  the  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue.  The  Capitol  is  an  immense 
building,  with  two  wings,  surrounded  by  an  open 
piece  of  ground,  terraced  in  front,  and  occupying 
an  elevation,  which  renders  it  a  conspicuous  ob- 
ject for  several  miles. 

The  original  plan  of  the  city  was  very  extensive  ; 
the  principal  streets  meeting  from  all  points  of  the 
compass  at  the  Capitol,  and  bearing  the  names  of 
the  older  states  of  the  Union.  Some  of  the  minor 
streets  are  known  by  the  names  of  the  letters  of 
the  alphabet;  and  tracts  of  ground  were  reserved 
for  public  squares. 

During  the  sessions  of  Congress,  the  place  is 
thronged  with  strangers  from  all  parts  of  the 
country;  and  the  sessions  of  the  Senate  and  Re- 
presentatives, the  proceedings  of  the  Supreme 
Court,  the  levees  at  the  President's  House,  the 
parties  at  the  foreign  ministers',  &.c.  afford  ample 
opportunities  for  amusements  of  various  kinds. 

The  Capitol  presents,  in  the  interior,  speci- 
mens of  various  styles  of  architecture.  The  whole 
front  is  352  feet  4  inche?  in  length  ;  and  the  wings 


e, — ^Nu- 
tjr  hand- 
ing  the 

States  is 
its  east- 
ve  their 
:t  parts, 
e  Penn- 
immense 
an  open 
ccnpying 
luous  ob- 

xtensive ; 
nts  of  the 
names  of 
he  minor 
letters  of 
reserved 

place  is 
IS  of  the 
and  Re- 
Supreme 
use,  the 
rd  ample 
kinds, 
r,  speci- 
he  whole 
he  wings 


I 


OITY    OF    WASHINGTON. 


329 


are  121  feet  6  inches  deep.  The  eastern  projec- 
tion is  65  feet;  the  westi  rn  80.  The  buihiino;  covers 
an  acre  anil  a  half  atid  1830  feet.  The  winos,  to 
the  top  of  the  balustrade,  are  70  feet  high,  the 
centre  dome  95. 

Representatives'  Room,  greatest  length,     95  ft. 
Representatives'  Room,  ^rrcatest  height,     60 
Senate  Chauibcr,  greatest  length,       -     -     74 
Senate  Chamber,  greatest  height,       -     -     42 
Great  Central  Rotunda,  9G  feet  in  diameter,  and 

96  high. 
The  North   Wing  was  commenced  in 

1792,  and  tirdshed  in  1800,  cost         $480,262 
South  Wing  was  commenced  in  1803, 

and  finished  in  1808,  cost     -     -     -     308,808 
Centre  Building,  commenced  in  1819, 

and  finished  in  1827,  cost      -     -     -     957,647 


$1,746,717 
On  the  tympanum   is   a  statue    of  America,    9 
feet  in  length,  attended  by  Justice,  and  visited  by 
Hope. 

The  Representatives  Hall  is  a  beautiful  semi- 
circular apartment,  95  feet  long,  and  60  in  height, 
with  24  Corinthian  columns  of  Virginia  breccia, 
copied  after  a  column  found  in  Athens.  There  is 
a  sky  light  aSovc,  under  which  hangs  a  large  chan- 
delier, A  gigantic  statue  of  Liberty  is  over  the 
Speaker's  Chair;  opposite  which  is  one  of  History 
in  the  act  of  recording. 

The  Senate  Chamber,  also  semicircular,  is  74 
feet  long  and  42  high.  Tlie  gallery  is  supported 
by  Ionic  columns,  and,  like  that  of  the  Represen- 
tatives, is  accessible  during  the  open  debates. 


t 

< 

\ 

1 

t 

i 

£ 

fi 


ili 


330 


CITY    OF    WASHINGTON. 


The  Rotundo  contains  the  four  national  pic- 
tures, painted  lor  the  government  by  Col.  Trum- 
bull:  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  the  Sur- 
renders at  Saratoga  and  Yorktown,  and  Washing- 
ton resigning  his  Commission;  each  12  feet  by  18. 
Here  are  also  four  relievos  in  marble,  represent- 
ing scenes  connected  with  the  history  of  (liferent 
parts  ol'  the  U.  Slates  ;  Pocahontas  rescuing  Capt. 
Smith  from  death,  in  1606,  [by  Capellano,]  the 
Landing  of  the  New-England  Prilgrims  at  Ply- 
mouth, in  1620,  [by  Causici,]  Wm.  Penn's  Treaty 
with  the  Indians,  near  Philadelphia,  in  1682,  [by 
Gevelot,]  and  a  battle  between  Boon  and  two  In- 
dians, in  1773,  [by  Causici.] 

There  can  hardly  be  found  in  the  world  a  room 
better  constructed  for  the  exhibition  of  pictures 
than  this  noble,  grand  Rotundo,  the  material  of 
which  is  white  marble,  and  the  light  admitted 
from  the  summit  of  the  dome,  96  feet  in  height. 

The  Library  of  Congress,  92  ft.  by  34,  and  36 
in  height,  contains  about  14,000  volumes.  These 
are  arranged  in  12  arched  compartments,  with  flu- 
ted pilasters,  which  have  the  proportions  of  the 
columns  of  the  Octagon  Tower  of  Athens.  A 
portion  of  the  library  is  placed  in  an  U|)per  range 
of  s'.Tialler  compartments. 

The  Record  Office,  under  the  RiUundo,  contains 
the  records  of  the  Supreme  Court.  The  archi- 
tecture is  the  ancient  simple  Doric  of  Paestum. 
Beside  these  apartments,  there  are  in  the  Capitol, 
45  Committee  rooms,  25  offices,  a  refectory  under 
the  Representatives'  Hall,  three  stair  cases,  &c. 

A  tine  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  top  of  the  Cap- 
itol,    Westward,  to  the   President's  House,    with 


CHESAPEAKE    AND    OHIO    CANAL. 


331 


lal    pic- 
Triim- 
lie    J5ur- 
^ashing- 
Btby  18. 
present- 
difl'erent 
ng  Capt. 
110,]    the 
at    Ply- 
s  Treaty 
;82,    [by 
two    In- 

3  a  room 
pictures 
terial    of 
admitted 
eight. 
I,  and   36 
These 
with  flu- 
Is  of  the 
ens.     A 
er  range 

contains 
je    archi- 
IPaestum. 
Capitol, 
•y  under 
|s,  ^c. 
the  Cap- 
ise,    with 


Georgetown  and  the  Potomac  beyond  ;  the  Gen- 
eral Post  Office,  6lc.  on  tlie  right ;  the  Navy  Yard 
towards  the  south-east ;  Greeiileafs'  Point  nearly 
floulh;  and  south-west  the  bridge  over  the  Poto- 
mac, with  the  road  to  Alexandria  and  MouMt  Ver- 
non. The  canal  begins  south  of  the  President's 
House,  and  terminates  at  the  East  Branch. 

The  President's  House  is  of  while  marble,  with 
Grecian  fronts,  about  a  mile  west  of  the  Capitol, 
and  near  the  public  ofilces.  The  entrance  hall 
leads  into  the  drawing-room,  where  the  company 
are  received  at  the  levees.  Two  other  apartments 
are  thrown  open  on  those  occasions;  ail  hand- 
somely furnished,  and  freely  accessible,  even  to 
strangers. 

The  Patent  Office  is  in  the  same  building  with 
the  General  Post  Office,  and  well  worthy  of  a 
visit,  on  account  of  the  numerous  curious  models 
which  it  contains,  relating  to  all  branches  of  the 
arts.  The  Treasury,  Navy,  War,  and  Land  Offi- 
ces, are  all  in  the  vicinity  of  the  President's  House; 
as  are  the  residences  of  the  Foreign  Ministers. 
The  members  of  Congress,  as  well  as  the  numer- 
ous strangers  who  resort  hither  during  the  ses- 
sions, find  lodgings  in  the  hotels  and  boarding- 
houses  in  diflerent  parts  of  the  city,  or  in  George- 
town. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  was  commen- 
ced in  1828,  and  is  proceeding  along  the  Potomac 
River,  where  it  will  pass  among  some  very  fine 
scenery,  as  well  as  through  some  rich  tracts  of 
country. 

Steamboats.  By  steamboats  there  is  a  constant 
&nd  cenvenient  communication  between  Washing- 


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332 


ALEXANDRIA. 


tPii 


Ui 


ton,    Alexandria,    Mount    Vernon,    Norfolk,    and 
Richmond. 

GEORGETOWN  is  a  considerable  place, 
vvliich,  by  its  proximity  to  Wasliington,  seems  al- 
most a  part  of  that  city.  The  country  around  it 
is  vaiieoaled,  and  the  situation  of  the  Catholic 
Collr^e,  a  little  way  wc^st,  is  picturesque.  Still 
further  in  trie  satue  diitclion,  th(  re  is  a  very  pleas- 
ant ride  i»l(»no  the  hank  of  the  Potomac,  where 
Mason's  island  is  at  first  seen,  near  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  and  afterward  the  Nunnery  upon  the  el- 
evated banks.  On  the  north  side  of  the  road  is  a 
Cannon  Foundry. 

ALEXANDRIA,  a  lar<re  city  and  port, six  miles 
from  Washington,  contains  some  fine  buildings, 
both  public  and  private.  The  road  which  leads  to 
it  is  good,  in  the  pleasant  season,  although  the 
country  is  little  inliabited,  and  the  soil  is  impov- 
erished by  the  cultivaticm  of  tobacco.  It  is  pleas- 
anter  to  go  in  the  steamboat,  9  Diiles.  This  (ityis 
included  within  the  boundary  of  the  District  of 
Columbia,  and  is  at  so  short  a  distance  from  Wash- 
ington as  to  be  a  fiivorite  resort  during  the  ses- 
sions of  Congress.  The  river  is  here  a  mile  wide, 
with  a  channel  1000  yards  in  breadth,  where  the 
water  is  80  feet  deep.  Tliere  is  a  basin  at  the 
northern  part  of  this  town,  at  the  end  of  the  Ches- 
apeake and  Ohio  Canal.  This  canal  was  intended 
to  extend  to  the  Pennsylvania  Canal  near  Pitts- 
burgh, 360  miles.  The  lockage  on  the  route 
would  be  4,004  feet. 

Road  fro 7)1  Washington  to  Baltimore,  3Q  miles. 
Bladensburgh,  6  miles.  [The  British  army  en- 
tered this  village  from  the  east,  and  sutibred  con- 


a 
c 


a 


MOUNT    VERNON. 


333 


Ik,    and 

place, 
Dems  al- 
round  it 
CatlwUc 
e.     Still 
ry  pleas- 
i,   where 
moutli  of 
m  the  el- 
road  is  a 

six  miles 
buildings, 
1  leads  to 
jugh    the 
s  impov- 
tis  pleas- 
his  (iiy  is 
)istrict  of 
)m  Wash- 
the    ses- 
Tiile  wide, 
here    the 
n    at  the 
the  Ches- 
3  intended 
ear  Pitts- 
the   route 

36  miles . 
army  en- 
ered  con- 


siderably in  passing  the  stream.  Comm.  Barney 
was  shot  near  the  road,  near  the  height  of  ground, 
some  distance  on  the  road  to  Washington.] 
Vansville,  8;  W.  Branch  of  Patuxent,  3;  E.  do. 
4;  Patapsco,  9;  Gwinn's  Falls,  5.  [Here  will  be 
seen  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Rail-road,  the  great 
Viaduct,  &.C.]    Baltimore  3. 

MOUNT  VERNON,  the  estate  of  the  Wash- 
ington family,  is  nine  miles  south  from  Alexan- 
dria, and  is  remarkable  as  containing  the  residence 
and  the  tomb  of  Gen.  Washington.  The  road  is 
somewhat  intricate,  and  has  but  few  inhabitants, 
so  that  the  stranger,  unless  he  goes  in  a  steam- 
boat, will  need  to  make  careful  inquiries.  The 
entrance  of  the  grounds  is  distinguished  by  a  large 
gate,  with  the  lodge  and  dwelling  of  the  porter. 
A  winding  path  conducts  to  the  mansion,  which  is 
seen  but  two  or  three  times  from  a  distance. 

The  key  of  the  Basiille  of  Paris  is  hung  up  in 
the  hall ;  and  a  miniature  portrait  of  Washington, 
from  an  earthen  pitcher,  is  preserved,  which  is 
considered  by  the  family  the  best  likeness  of  him 
ever  made.  A  beautiful  lawn,  partly  shailed  by 
trees,  extends  from  the  front  of  the  mansion  to 
the  verge  of  the  precipice,  which  overhangs  the 
Potomac,  and  affords  a  delightful  view  upon  the 
river,  and  a  tract  of  hilly  country  above  and  be- 
low. 

This  is  the  place  to  which  Washington  retired 
after  he  had  accomplished  the  independence  of  his 
country,  and  again  when  he  had  presided  at  tfje 
consolidation  of  the  government;  voluntarily  re- 
signing the  stations  he  had  consented  to  accept, 
and  the  power  he  had  exercised  only  for  the  good 

28 


!l 


m 


III 


?  ' 


334 


SAVANNAH. 


of  bis  country.  To  an  American,  this  place  is  in- 
teresting, in  a  degree  wiiich  no  language  can  ei- 
ilier  heighten  or  describe.  Whoever  appreciates 
the  value  of  private  and  social  virtue,  will  rejoice 
to  find  it  associated  with  the  traits  of  a  personage 
so  distinguished  and  influential ;  while  any  one, 
who  can  duly  estiinate  the  extent  of  the  blessings 
he  has  conferred  on  his  country,  and  the  influence 
of  his  actions  on  the  happiness  of  the  world,  will 
wish  that  his  history  may  ever  be  cherished,  as  a 
model  of  sincere  and  disinterested  patriotism. 

Washinsrton''s  Tomb  uill  be  found  under  the 
shade  of  a  little  grove  of  cedars,  a  short  distance 
southward,  from  the  house. 

SOUTHERN  ROUTES  AND  CITIES. 

Savannah,  167  m.  S.  E,  by  E.  of  Milledgeville, 
was  formerly  unhealthy,  but  is  not  so  since  the 
wet  cullure  of  cotton  has  been  abandoned.  Sa- 
vannah is  15  mih's  from  the  mouth  of  Savannah 
river,  accessible  in  vessels  dravving  12  ft.  water, 
and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  high  ground,  and,  with 
ils  ten  public  squares  and  fine  rows  of  Pride  of 
India  trees,  appears  to  great  advantage  from  the 
water.  There  are  U>  churches,  3  banks,  a  jail, 
court  house,  exchange,  (5  stories  high,)  hospital, 
library,  theatre,  an  academy  180  ft.  long,  <kc. 
From   Savannah   to    Charleston,   by   water — 110 

i a  lies, 

Tybee  Sound,  10  m.,  Port  Republican,  25;  Beau- 
fort, 10;  South  Edislo,  18  ;  N.  Edisto  Sound,  10 ; 
Charleston  Light  House,  25;  Bar, 3;  Charleston,?. 

By  Land — Beek's  ferry,  on  Savannah  r.  25  m.  ; 
Pitch's,  Echan  road,  19;  Coosahatchie,  4;  Poco- 
taligo,  6  ;    Salt  Ketcher  Church,  7 ;   Thompson's 


CHARLESTON. 


335 


;e  IS  m- 
can    ei- 
reciales 
rejoice 
rsonage 
ny  one, 
lefc'sings 
rifluence 
rid,  will 
led,  as  a 
ism. 

ider    the 
distance 


[ES. 
dgeville, 
lince  the 
ed.     fc^a- 
lavannah 

t.  water, 

nd,  wilh 
ride   ot* 

roni    the 
a   jail, 

[hospital, 

&LC. 

er— 110 

|5;  Beau- 
Jund,  10; 

|]eston,7. 

].  25  m. ; 

;  Poco- 

►mpson's 


tavern,  9 ;  PomponPostoflicc,  II  ;  .Jarksonborouirli, 
3;  Hick's  Tavern,  U) ;  (Jrecn's  tiivern,  10;  Asfili^y 
r.,8;  Cfjarlest()n,6  ;  — 118m.      Pop.in  1  8.S(), 7,423. 

Charleston,  S.  C  is  situated  at  the  junction  of 
Cooper  and  Ashley  rivers,  6  ni.  from  the  sea,  on  a 
bay  2  m.  wide,  the  principal  entrance  to  wliich  is 
by  a  narrow  channel  16  ft.  deep,  under  Fort  Moul- 
trie, which  is  on  Sullivan's  Island.  .June  28  1776, 
Sir  Peter  Parker's  fleet  was  crippled  in  an  attempt 
to  pass  there,  though  the  fort  was  a  mere  stockade. 
Lat.  of  Charleston,  32^  44'  N.  The  surrounding 
country  is  low  and  fint,  with  plantations  scattered 
here  and  there,  and  liable  to  occasional  inundations. 
The  houses  have  piazzas,  and  are  often  beautiful- 
Iv shaded  with  trees.  Orange  anrl  fi^  trees  abound. 
The  public  buildings  are  the  Acadetnical  and  Me- 
dical colleges,  court  h.,  exchange.  City  hall,  6 
banks,  guard  house,  arsenal,  a  house  for  public 
records,  2  markets,  St.  Andrew's  Hall,  Alms  house, 
Orphan  Asylum,  with  loO  children,  and  a  public 
Library  with  about  1 8,000  volumes.  Regular  lines 
of  packet  ships  go  to  N.  York,  steamboats  to  8a- 
vannd.  &c.  Pop.  in  1830,  12,928  whites,  17,iGl 
slaves  and  free  blacks  : — total,  30,289. 

The  S.  Carolina  Railroad  extends  from  Charles- 
ton to  Hamburgh,  on  Savannah  r.,  N.  West  by 
W.,  main  line  135J  m.  The  table  land,  114  m. 
from  Charleston,  has  a  stationary  engine.  The 
road  is  supported  in  some  places  on  pile  s  and  in 
some  on  sleepers,  and  crosses  various  soils.  The 
Edisto  bridge,  60  m.  from  Charleston,  is  on  an 
arch  60  feet  span.  The  work  bciian  in  1S30,  and 
is  expected  to  cost  when  entire  .^'621,000,  or  ^4, 
952  per  mile.     The  great  object  of  it  is,  to  make 


11 


[I  • 

ii: , 


S36 


NORFOLK. 


Charleston  the  port  of  most  of  Savannah  river. 
It  will  be  the  longest  railroad  in  the  world,  and 
does  great  honor  to  the  enterprise  of  the  state. 

The  steamboats  Wm.  Gibbons  and  David  Brown, 
make  their  passages  regularly  between  Charleston 
and  N.  York,  in  three  days  and  a  half  ;  leaving 
each  place  on  Saturday  at  4  P.  M. 

Passage  from  Charleston  to  N,  York  670  miles. 
The  following  are  the  chief  points  of  the  coast. 
Cape  Fear,  120  miles;  Cape  Look  Out,  75;  Cape 
Hatteras,  78  ;  Capes  of  Virginia,  14() ;  Cape  May, 
120 1  Barnegat  Inlet,  70  ;  the  Bar  of  N.  York  ba> , 
45  ;  Sandy  Hook,  3  :  Fort  Lafayette,  at  the  Nar- 
rows, 11  ;  N.  York  City,  8. 

Route  from,  Charleston  to  Norfolk.  419  miles. 
Greenwich,  4  miles;  Wapetan  Church,  15  ;  Twee- 
den  Cottons,  17  ;  S.  Branch  of  Sanlee,  10  ;  N.  do. 
2  ;  Georgetown,  14  ;  Sands,  20  ;  Varennes,  North 
Carolina,  13;  Smithville,  26;  Brunswick,  12; 
Wilmington,  18  ;  Hermitage,  6  ;  South  Washing- 
ton, 24  ;  Rhode's,  24;  Trenton,  11  ;  Newbern,  20; 
Washington,  35  ;  Plymouth,  35 ;  Roanoke  river, 
8.  (In  a  Steamboat,)  Wade's  Point,  Albermarle 
Sound,  45 ;  Elizabeth  City,  17.  (Stage  Coach,) 
Pasquotank  River,  12;  boundary  of  Virginia,  10; 
Portsmouth,  20  ;  Norfolk,  1. 

Norfolk  Virginia^  8  miles  from  Hampton  Roads, 
is  the  principal  port  of  the  state,  and  admits  ves- 
sels drawing  18  feet  water,  but  has  little  attraction, 
for  a  traveller:  the  ground  being  lovi^,  flat,  and 
little  inhabited  for  a  great  distance  around  it.  It 
contains  6  churches,  a  marine  hospital,  3  banks,  an 
academy.  Athenaeum  and  theatre.  There  is  a  fort 
on  Craney  island.  Lat.  36°  52'  North,  iong.  0° 
44'  East.     114  miles  S.  E.   by  E.  of  Richmond, 


RICHMOND    TO    WASHINGTON. 


337 


h  river. 
'1(1,  and 
state. 
I  Brown, 
arleslon 
leaving 

70  miles, 
he  coast. 
5 ;  Cape 
ape  May, 
''ork  ba> , 
the  Nar- 

19  miles. 
) ;  Twee- 
0 ;  N.  do. 
es,  North 
ick,   12; 
Washing- 
bern,  20 ; 
)ke  river, 
Ibermarle 
Coach,) 
rinia,  10; 

m  Roads, 
I  mi  Is  ves- 
ittraction, 
flat,  and 
id  it.  It 
Ibanks,  an 
le  is  a  fort 
•long.  Oo 
Richmond, 


whither  steamboats  go,  up  James  river.  Popula- 
tion in  iSoO,  9,816. 

The  Navy  Yard  at  Gosport,  has  a  large  dry 
dock,  2i)6  feet  long,  and  50  feet  spare  room,  and 
86  feet  wide  at  top,  from  which,  on  acconnt  of  the 
small  tides,  the  water  is  pumped  out  by  steam. 

The  Dismal  Swamp  Canal  opens  to  Norfolk  in 
communication  with  the  vallics  of  Roanoke  and 
Chowan. 

Steamboat  from  Norfolk  to  Washington^  195 
miles.  Down  Elizabeth  river  to  Chesapeake  Bay, 
9  miles  ;  to  James  river,  6  ;  York  river,  Old  Point 
Comfort,  20  ;  New  Point  Comfort,  10  ;  Rappahan- 
nock river,  15  ;  St.  Mary's  river,  42  ;  Port  Tobac- 
co, 38  ;  Potomac  river,  15 ;  Mount  Vernon,  25; 
Alexandria,  9  ;  Washintrton,  t>. 

■Steamboat  from  Norfolk  to  Baltimore^  191  miles. 
Chesapeake  Bay,  9;  James  river,  6;  Old  Point, 
20;  New  Point,  10;  Rappahannock  river,  15; 
Smith's  Point,  25  ;  Potomac,  10  ;  Patuxent,  ]8  ; 
Cone  Point,  5  ;  Sharp's  Island,  15  ;  Three  Sisters, 
16;  Annapolis,  10;  Sandy  Point,  6;  Patapsco,  11; 
Baltimore,  15. 

•'  Steamboat  from  Norfolk  to  Richmond,!  22  miles, 
Chesapeake  Bay,  9;  Day's  Point,  10  ;  Hog  island, 
16;  Swan's  Point,  9  ;  Chickahomany  river,  4; 
Fort  Powhatan,  21  ;  Eppe's  Island,  17;  Chester- 
field, 23:  Richmond,  13. 

Road  and  Steamboat  from  Richmond  to  Wash- 
ing-ton, 120  miles.  Road  to  Chickahomany  river, 
10;  Hanover  Court  House,  10  ;  White  Chimneys, 
10;  Mattapoay  river,  8  ;  Bowling  Green,  6  ;  Vile- 
borough,  8  ;  Fredericksburgh,  14  ;  Potomac  river, 
9;  (Steamboat,)  Mount  Vernon,  30  ;  Alexandria, 
9;  Washington,  6.  28* 


^  i  a 


:! 


!  ! 
11^ 


'  H 


V 


'f 


338 


VIRGINIA    SPRINGS. 


Steamboat  and  Railroad  route  from.  Baltimore 
to  Philadelphia,  I  la^  miles.  (Steavihoat.)  Fort 
McHenry,  3;  Sparrow's  Point,  6;  N.  Point,  4; 
(Here  was  the  battle  of  Sept.  1814.)  Miller's  Is- 
land, 8  ;  Pool's  Island,  8  ;  Grove  Point,  iO, ;  Tur- 
key Point,  6;  Frenchtown,  13.  (Railroad.)  To 
Newcastle,  16^.  (Steamboat.)  Christiana  Creek, 
6  ;  Marcus  Hook,  8  ;  Chester,  4 ;  Lazaretto,  5  : 
Fort  Mifflin,  5  ;  Philadelphia,  8. 

The  Newcastle  and  Frenchtown  Railroad  is  a 
little  less  than  i,  nriile  longer  than  a  straight  line  be- 
tween the  two  points.  It  has  6  gentle  curves,  and 
6  straight  lines.  The  bed  of  the  road  is  26  feet. 
There  are  4  bridges,  and  29  culverts  ;  and  the  en- 
tire cost  with  a  double  track  and  machinery  is  es- 
timated at  $408,520.  There  is  a  branch  oi  800 
feet. 

[The  Virginia  Springs. 

These  springs  are  the  resort  of  numerous  travel- 
lers every  year,  and  present  tha  combined  attrac- 
tions of  healthfulness,  fine  scenery,  company,  Ate. 

From  Lynchburg,  in  Virginia,  the  first  day's 
ride  brings  the  traveller  in  sight  of  the  noble  peaks 
of  Otter  ;  —  the  next  day  brings  him  to  the  Natural 
Bridge,  and  the  canal  through  the  Blue  Ridge — in 
a  few  days  he  can  visit  the  Sweet  Springs,  the 
White  Sulphur,  Salt  Sulphur  (for  consumptive 
patients,)  the  Hot  Springs,  and  the  Warm  Springs, 
(the  laUer  celebrated  for  its  bath,  and  the  prospect 
which  the  Warm  Spring  Rock  displays.)  On  his 
way  to  Staunton,  he  passes  the  Blowing  cave— on 
the  first  diy  from  Staunton,  he  reaches  Weyer's 
cave,  one  of  the  most  astonishing  works  of  subter- 
ranean Nature  in  the  world— going  up  the  Valley, 
he  will  visit  at  Harper's  Ferry  the  celebrated  junc» 


CITY    or    BALTlMOKn. 


339 


altimore 
,)  Fort 
^>int,  4; 
illcr's  Is- 
iC;  Tnr- 
id.)  To 
ia  Creek, 
retto,  5 : 

road  is  a 
It  line  be- 
irves,  and 
IS  26  feet, 
nd  theen- 
ery  is  es- 
ch  cf  800 


)iis  travel- 
ed attrac- 

3any,  Ate. 

rst  day's 
)ble  peaks 

e  Natural 
Ridge — in 
)rings,  tlie 
nsumptive 
n  Springs, 
prospect 
On  his 

cave— on 
s  Weyer's 

of  subter- 

he  Valley, 

ated  junc» 


) 


' 

\ 


tion  of  the  Slienandoah  and  Potomac.  Tiic  coun- 
try, through  which  some  of  this  rofid  conducts  him, 
is  not  only  remarkahlo  for  the  beauty  of  the  pic- 
turesque, but  the  fertility  of  its  soil.  The  grass 
lands  are  uncommonly  beautiful.] 

BALTIMORE. 

Barnunn's  City  Hotel,  an  elegnnt  building  near 
the  Washington  Monument,  extends  about  100 
feet  on  Market-street,  and  223  feet  on  Hanover- 
street.  On  the  former  opens  the  entrance  to  the 
private  apartments,  for  families,  <fec. 

The  Indian  Queen  Hotel — and  others. 

Baltimore  is  the  third  city,  for  size,  in  the  Uni- 
ted States,  and  carries  on  an  extensive  commerce. 

The  harbor  of  Baltimore,  in  the  Patapsco  river, 
has  a  narrow  entrance,  and  is  well  protected  by 
high  ground.  On  the  side  opposite  the  city  is  an 
abrupt  elevation  of  considerable  size,  where  is  Fort 
McHenryr  and  whence  a  commanding  view  is  en- 
joyed. Baltimore  is  the  greatest  flour-market  in 
the  U.  States.  FelVs  Point  is  a  part  of  the  city 
where  most  of  the  stores  and  shipping  are  found. 
Many  of  the  streets  of  Baltimore  are  broad,  cross 
at  right  angles,  and  are  ornamented  with  fine 
buildings  both  public  and  private.  The  Exchange 
is  a  very  spacious  brick  buildinjr,  erected  within  a 
f^w  years.  The  Commercial  Reading  Rooms  are 
the  resort  of  merchants.  The  Washington  MoU' 
ument  is  a  large  column  of  marble,  in  Howard's 
Park,  at  the  head  of  Charles-street,  rising  to  the 
height  of  103  feet,  l4  feet  in  diameter  at  the  top 
and  2i)  below,  with  a  base  23  feet  in  height,  and 
50  square.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  monuments  in 
the  United  States,  and  the  only  one  worthy  the 
memory  of  the  great  man  to  whom  it   is  erected. 


I 


it 


( I 


>*! 


I 


1! 


l,,fti 


! 


340 


CITV    or    BALTIMORE. 


The  statue  is  15  feet  ]n«rh  ;  so  that  the  hci^lit  of 
the  lop  of  the  statue  from  the  ground  is  176  feet  ; 
and  from  the  tide  U'Vel  *^7().  The  stales  are  re- 
presented by  devices  around  the  base;  and  inscrip- 
tions are  a(hled  to  record  the  (beds  of  the  father 
of  our  country.  The  Battle  Monument  was  re- 
cently erected  in  rnemnry  of  thos(^  who  fell  in  the 
defence  of  the  city  in  September,  1814.  The  city 
Library  contains  about  4' JjOOO  volumes.  At  tie 
corner  of  Front  and  Pitt  streets  is  a  shot  tower, 
234  feet  in  height,  which  is  a  conspicuous  object 
from  a  distance.  The  Public  Fountain  is  a  fine 
spring  of  water  in  the  western  part  of  the  city, 
surrounded  by  a  public  square,  laid  out  in  walks 
and  shaded  with  trees.  It  is  ornamented  with  a 
neat  little  building  of  hewn  stone,  and  furnished 
with  handsome  steps. 

The  environs  of  J^altimore  afford  some  pleasant 
rides  ;  and  the  communication  with  different  pla- 
ces is  easy,  by  various  modes  of  conveyance.  The 
travelling  to  Philadelphia  is  by  the  steamboat  and 
railroad  lines,  which  go  and  arrive  daily.  Steam- 
boats also  go  to  Norfolk,  in  Virginia,  but  the  pas- 
sage is  uninteresting,  and  those  who  wish  to  see 
Washington  (38  miles  distant)  will  go  by  land. 
The  Mount  Hope  Institution  is  a  school  for  youth, 
beautifully  situated  in  the  environs.  St,  Mary^s 
College  is  a  Catholic  institution  in  the  city. 

Battle  of  Baltimore.  This  battle  took  place  at 
Long  Point  in  September,  1814.  Nearly  40  sail 
of  British  vessels,  comprising  several  ships  of  the 
line,  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Patapsco,  and  on 
the  12th  landed  between  7000  and  8i  00  men  on 
Long  Point,  at  the  distance  of  14  miles  from  the 
city.   Sixteen  bomb  vessels  in  the  mean  time  went 


BALTIMORE    AND    OHIO    RAILROAD. 


341 


eight  of 
?6  feet  ; 
are  re- 
inscrip* 
e  father 
was  re- 
II  in  the 
rhe  city 
At  tie 
L  tower, 
s  object 
is  a  fine 
he  city, 
n  walks 
1  with  a 
irnished 

ileasant 
ent  pla- 
:e.    The 
►oat  and 
Steam- 
he  pas- 
1  to  see 
and. 
youth, 
Mary^s 

:)lace  at 
40  sail 
s  of  the 

and  on 
men  on 

om  the 
le  went 


up  the  river,  and  ancliored  about  2.^  miles  from 
r\,rt  M'llenry.  Gen.  Smith  had  sent  Grn.  StrickfT 
with  a  part  of  his  biii>a(le,  on  the  road  to  North 
Point;  and  Major  Randal,  with  some  Baltimore 
and  Pennsylvania  volunteers,  went  to  Bear  Oreek, 
to  co-operate  with  him.  Gen.  Strieker  took  po- 
sition at  the  tw(»  roads  leading  to  North  Point,  his 
right  on  Bear  Creek  and  his  left  on  a  marsh.  An 
advance  met  the  enemy,  and  after  a  skirmish  re- 
turned, when  they  advanced  and  joined  in  a  gene- 
ral battle.  After  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes, 
the  51st  regt.  gave  way,  and  Gen.  Strieker  retired 
to  his  reserve,  whither  the  enemy  did  not  follow, 
and  then  to  the  left  of  Gen.  Smith,  and  took  post 
half  a  mile  in  advance  of  his  entrenchments.  He 
lost  about  150  killed  and  wounded,  in  this  action, 
in  which  th^  citizens  of  Baltimore  distinguished 
themselves.  The  British  loss  was  computed  at 
600  or  700;  and  among  them  their  commander, 
Gen.  Ross. 

The  bomb  vessels  which  attacked  Fort  M*Henry 
were  unsuccessful,  being  met  with  a  manly  resis- 
tance ;  and  the  troops  re-embarked  and  relinquish- 
ed the  enterprise. 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad.  The 
route  from  Baltimore  to  the  Potomac,  60  miles,  has 
but  a  single  summit,  requiring  stationary  power  ; 
and  even  the  route  up  the  Potomac  valley,  to  the 
coal  mines  in  Alleghany  county,  without  anotle'- 
in  all,  a  distance  of  180  miles — a  thing  unprece- 
dented in  Europe. 

The  CarroUton  Viaduct,  which  crosses  Gwynn's 
Falls,  about  a  mile  from  the  city,  is  a  fine  specimen 
of  mason  work,  31"^  feet  long,  63  feet  9  inches 


l! 


!i 


i  1 


!,^ 


't-  I 


342 


BALTIMORE    AND    OHIO    R>.  ILROAH. 


I 


high,  a!i(l  20  frot  0  inrlms  wide  on  the  travelled 
part.  The  great  granite;  arch  of  SO  feet  span, 
sprini^s  from  abiiluu  iils  2(>  leet  in  tliiekness,  and 
14  feet  above  iIk?  water.  The  key  of  the  arch  is 
47  feet  above  the  water.  The  arch  stones  are  all 
of  dressed  granite  ;  the  number  of  layers  ofstono 
is  87,  many  of  the  stones  weighing  two  tons  ;  and 
the  parapets  are  roped  with  large  slabs  of  granite. 

The  Jackson  Brilire  is  a  single  arch,  101)  feet 
long,  of  entirely  novel  structure,  the  invention  of 
Col.  Long. 

The  Deep  Cut  through  a  high  and  broad  ridge 
of  land,  is  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  length, 
its  greatest  depth  70  feet,  and  its  width  at  the  sum- 
mit of  the  ridge,  184  feet.  Quantities  of  carbon- 
ized wood  were  found  60  feet  below  the  natural 
surface,  an»l  the  stump  of  a  tree  with  its  roots  at 
40  feet.  The  enare  excavation  is  263,8^18  cubic 
yards. 

The  Great  Ernhanhment  at  Gadslnfs  Run^  five 
miles  from  Baltimore,  is  nearly  a  mile  in  length, 
its  greatest  elevation  5()  feet,  and  its  greatest  width 
191  feet. 

Gadshy^s  Run  Viad-nct  affords  a  passage  to  the 
waters  of  the  run  throutjh  the  embankment.  The 
arch,  composed  of  dressed  granite  blocks,  is  120 
feet  from  opening  to  opening. 

The  Patterson  Viaduct  is  an  immense  structure 
of  granite,  by  which  the  road  is  carried  to  the  op- 
posite bank  of  the  Patapsco.  It  is  built  of  granite 
blocks,  from  one  to  seven  tons  in  weight,  and  its 
entire  length  is  375  feet.  It  has  four  beautiful 
arches,  the  two  centre  ones  each  a  span  of  55  feet, 
with  extensive  wings  and  water-walls,  abutments, 


TIIK    SUSqUUHANNAII    RAILROAD. 


843 


ravrllofl 
3t  spun, 
CSS,  and 
1  arch  is 
s  arc  all 
of  stono 
tns  ;  and 
granite, 
lot)  feet 
ntion  of 

ad  iid<yo 
\  length, 
the  suni- 
carbon- 
natural 
roots  at 
rl8  cubic 

un,  five 
lenj:jtb, 
;t  width 

e  to  the 
.  The 
is   120 

rue lure 
the  op- 
granite 
and  its 
auliful 
55  feet, 
ments, 


<kc.  The  Iioight  from  the  water  to  the  crown  of 
the  arches  is  Si)  feet. 

Besides  these  are  the  enibanknient  at  Stillhouse 
Run,  two  granite  viaducts,  the  rock  side  cutting  at 
Buzzard's  Jlock,  6lc.  Alc. 

This  is  truly  a  great  work;  highly  creditable  to 
the  enterprise  and  public  spirit  of  the  company  ; 
and  from  which  the  citizens  of  Baltimore  may  very 
reasonably  expect  extensive  and  durable  advan- 
tages. 

In  the  first  port,  the  inclination  of  the  road  is  at 
the  rate  of  15,086  feet  per  mile,  or  9.8  minutes  of 
a  degree,  ascending  from  Baltimore  towards  (Cum- 
berland. Between  Cumberland  and  the  Ohio  ri- 
ver, the  probable  transportation  to  that  stream  is 
estimated  at  one  half  that  of  the  transportation 
fiom  it  eastward  ;  and  the  general  inclination  of 
the  road  at  8  feet  and  12  hundredths  per  mile,  or 
5.29  minutes  of  a  degree  arjcending  towards  the 
Ohio. 

The  Susquehannah  railroad  extends  to  York 
Haven,  60  miles. 

It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  inhabitants 
of  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  should  feel  great 
solicitude  to  secure  the  trade  of  the  Susquehannah. 
The  sloop  canal  connecting  this  river  with  the 
Delaware  is  intended  for  the  benefit  of  the  former, 
as  is  the  Union  canal  at  Middletown,  leading  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Pennsylvania  canal  to  the  Schuyl- 
kill river.  The  Susquehannah  has  been  greatly 
improved  by  various  works  in  different  parts  of 
its  course,  which  permit  the  passage  of  boats  of 
fifty  or  sixty  tons  to  Columbia.  The  state  of 
Delaware  has  rendered  the  navigation  b^low  Co- 


A 


v! 


m 


f ' 


I 


344 


WILMINGTON. 


S  :f 


lumbia  comparatively  convenient,  so  that  wheat 
has  been  for  six  or  seven  years,  on  an  average, 
within  i2jj  or  15  cents  a  bushel  of  the  price  in  Bal- 
timore.    Formerly  it  was  50  cents. 

Wilmington,  Del.  The  Water  Works  are  sup- 
plied from  the  Brandywine,  by  a  steam  engine  and 
double  forcing  pump,  on  the  principle  of  that  at 
Fairmount,  Philadelphia.  The  water-wheel  is  an 
overshot,  14  feet  6  inches  in  diameter;  and  the 
water  that  turns  it  is  pumped  up.  The  ascent 
from  the  river  to  the  upper  basin  is  99  feet :  and 
both  the  basins  together  hold  a  million  of  gallons. 

On  the  Brandywine  River,  within  four  miles, 
there  are  no  less  than  42  water-wheels  employed 
in  the  manufacture  of  gunpowder,  cotton  and 
woollen  goods,  flour,  paper,  in  saw-mills,  and  in 
the  preparation  of  barley,  and  other  matters,  and 
with  ample  room  and  water  power,  it  is  said,  re- 
maining, for  at  least  fifty  more.  The  Messrs.  Du- 
ponts  employ  eighteen  wheels,  and  manufacture 
3000  pounds  of  gunpowder  daily. 

The  Brandywine  Chalybeate  Spring  (Stanley's 
Hotel)  is  five  miles  west  of  the  village,  on  eleva- 
ted ground,  and  ofl^ers  some  attractions. 

The  old  Swedish  church,  built  in  1698,  by  the 
early  inhabitants  of  this  place,  is  still  to  be  seen, 
surrounded  by  large  sycamores.  It  stands  near 
the  Christiana  Creek,  nearly  opposite  the  site  of 
the  first  place  of  worship  erected  here  by  the 
Swedes.  That  spot  is  now  marked  only  by  a 
few  tomb-stones.  This  town  was  settled  by  the 
companions  of  William  Useiing,  in  1631, 


i 


g 


a 


t  wheat 
iverage, 
I  in  Bal- 

are  sup- 
gine  and 
:  that  at 
eel  is  an 

and  the 
5  ascent 
set:  and 
'  gallons. 
ir  miles, 
mployed 
Lion  and 
5,  and  in 
,ters,  and 

said,  re- 
issrs.  Du- 
lufacture 

Stanley's 
n  eleva- 

,  by  the 
be  seen, 
nds  near 
le  site  of 
by  the 
)nly  by  a 
by  the 


CITY    OF    PHILADELPHIA. 


THE  CITY  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 


845 


i/o^cZ^.— United  States  Hotel,  in  Chestnut-st., 
opposite  the  United  States  Bank.  National  Ho- 
tel, opposite  he  post  office.  Mansion  House,  in 
South  3d  street,  between  Walnut  and  Spruce. 
Judd's,  2(1,  between  Market  and  Chestnut. 

Philadelphia  was  founded  by  William  Penn,  in 
1682,  and  was  at  first  intended  to  occupy  12  miles 
square,  but  is  now  confined  between  the  Delaware, 
(here  1  mile  wide,)  and  Schuylkill  Rivers.  The 
city  proper  occupies  only  nine  streets  in  width 
from  north  to  south  :  that  is  all  between  Vine  and 
Cedar  streets.  The  Northern  Liberties,  Kensing- 
ton, Spring  Garden,  Southwaik,  Moyamensing, 
Passyunk,  Blockley,  &c.  though  under  separate 
municipal  corporations,  are  suburbs,  not  dis- 
tinguishable from  it. 

Philadelphia  is  the  second  city  for  size  in  the  U. 
States;  and  is  remarkable  for  the  regularity  of  its 
streets,  which,  almost  without  exception,  run  at 
right  angles,  and  are  of  an  equal  and  convenient 
breadth.  Some  of  the  public  buildings  are  worthy 
of  particular  notice,  as  among  the  finest  and  most 
correct  specimens  of  architecture  in  the  country. 

It  will  be  convenient  to  the  stranger  to  recollect 
that  the  streets  running  north  and  south  are  named 
First,  Second,  Thirds  &c.,  beginning  on  both  sides 
of  the  city,  on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware  and 
Schuylkill,  until  they  meet  at  the  square  near  the 
centre.  The  streets  which  run  east  and  west,  are 
generally  named  after  trees ;  the  lanes  and  alleys 
after  shrubs,  &c. 

The  Market — This  consists  of  a  succession  of 

29 


4 


346 


CITY    OF    PHILADELPHIA. 


HI  f 


f,  'i  I 


buildings  in  the  middle  of  Market-street,  extend- 
ing from  the  fish  market  on  the  river's  bank,  to 
Eighth-street,  affording  room  for  a  convenient  dis- 
play of  the  numerous  articles  daily  brought  in  for 
the  supply  of  the  city. 

The  Post  Office  is  in  the  New  Exchange. 

The  New  Exchange  is  one  of  i-he  most  elegant 
edifices  in  the  United  States. 

The  Bank  of  the  United  States,  in  Chestnut- 
street,  between  Fourth  and  Fifth.  This  is  the 
finest  specimen  of  pure  Grecian  taste  in  the  Uni- 
ted States.  It  is  built  of  white  marble,  in  the 
form  of  a  temple,  with  two  fronts,  each  ornament- 
ed with  eight  fine  Doric  columns,  of  the  ancient 
proportions  without  bases.  Besides  the  Banking 
room,  which  is  large,  occup3ing  the  centre,  and 
lighted  through  a  glass  dome,  there  are  many 
other  apartments,  particularly  those  devoted  to  the 
printing  of  the  notes,  and  that  below,  which  con- 
tains the  furnace  for  warming  it  with  Lehigh  coal 
in  the  winter. 

Gerard^s  Bank,  in  Third,  facing  Dock-street. 
This  building  is  also  of  marble,  and  presents  a 
beautiful  row  of  six  Corinthian  columns. 

The  Bank  of  Pennsylvania,  opposite,  has  two 
fronts,  on  Second  and  Dock-streets,  each  with  six 
Ionic  columns.  This  is  another  chaste  and  beau- 
tiful building  of  white  marble. 

The  State  House,  in  Chestnut-street,  between 
Fifth  and  Sixth-streets,  is  a  large  brick  building, 
with  court  rooms,  <SiLC.  at  either  end.  In  the  front 
room,  east  of  the  main  entrance,  the  old  Conti- 
nential  Congress  held  their  sessions ;  and  there 
the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed,  Julv 
4th,  1776. 


'\  \\ 


CITY    OF    PHILADELPHIA. 


347 


xtend- 
ink,  to 
mt  (lis- 
t  iu  for 


elegant 

lestnut- 
>  is  the 
he  Uni- 

in  the 
fiament- 

ancient 
Banking 
tre,  and 
e  many 
td  to  the 
ich  con- 
ligh  coal 

k-street. 
esents  a 

has  two 
with  six 
nd  beau- 

between 
juilding, 
the  front 
d  Conti- 
[\d  there 
led,  July 


The  Athencdum  is  adjoining,   open   ail    day  to 


strangers. 

The  Philosophical  Society^s  Library  and  Cah- 
inet. 

Independence  Square  is  a  fine  shaded  piece  of 
ground,  behind  the  State  House.  Opposite  in 
Walnut-street,  is  the  State  Prison,  built  of  dark 
stone,  and  connected  with  a  yard  enclosed  by 
high  walls. 

City  Library^  Fifth  street,  open  to  the  public 
from  2,  P.  M.  See  Franklin's  apparatus,  and 
CromwelTs  clock. 

The  University  contains  a  medical  department, 
and  the  Wistar  Museum,  with  a  library,  garden, 
<fcc.  This  Institution  is  considered  the  most  richly 
endowed  among  all  those  in  the  United  States. 
It  has  recently  undergone  a  new  organization.  A 
new  medical  building  has  been  added,  and  the 
professors  are  numerous  as  well  as  respectable. 
The  annual  income  is  $15,000. 

Here  is  a  High  School,  subservient  to  the  Frank- 
lin Institute.  The  general  system  of  public  in- 
struction is  extensive  and  of  marked  benefit.  In- 
fant Schools  are  numerous,  and  the  system  has 
been  ingrafted  on  some  of  the  numerous  Sunday 
Schools. 

The  Arcade,  in  Chestnut-street,  is  a  fine  build- 
ing of  stone,  with  two  arched  passages  leading  to 
Lafayette-street.  It  is  occupied  for  shops,  and 
has  galleries  in  the  upper  story.  The  Philadel- 
phia Museum  of  Mr.  Peale  is  in  the  northern  part. 
It  contains  a  large  collection  of  curiosities  of  vari- 
ous descriptions.  The  birds  are  very  numerous, 
but  not  well  preserved.     The  huge  skeleton  of  a 


'in 

i 


iH 


% 


I  > 

1? 


348 


CITY    OF    PHILADELPHIA. 


mammoth  will  attract  particular  attention,  being' 
represented  entire;  for  the  parts  which  were  de- 
ficient on  one  side,  have  been  supplied  by  imita- 
tions of  those  on  the  other. 

Mr.  Sully's  Exhibition  of  Painting's  is  opposite 
the  Slate  House,  and  contains  line  pictures. 

Washington  Square  is  on  the  other  side  of 
Sixth-street,  with  a  handsome  church  on  the 
southern  side,  with  a  range  of  wooden  columns. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  a  large  and  ad- 
mirable institution,  in  ihe  next  street,  whereabout 
1200  sick  are  attended.  It  was  founded  by  Frank- 
lin and  others,  in  1750.  Most  of  the  patients  oc- 
cupy the  east  end,  and  the  lunatics  the  west. 
The  Lock  Hospital  is  adjoining.  The  statue  is 
that  of  Penn.  Twenty-five  cents  will  secure  ad- 
mission to  tl  e  building  and  gardens,  and  also  to 
the  top. 

Wastes  Celebrated  Picture  of  Christ  Healing 
the  Sick,  is  exhibited  in  a  neat  little  buildings 
It  represents  the  Saviour  surrounded  by  a 
crowd  of  persons  in  the  temple,  among  whom 
are  observed  many  aflHicted  with  various  dis- 
eases, pressing  forward  to  be  healed.  In 
front  is  a  paralytic  woman  borne  by  two  men, 
whose  healthy  countenances  form  a  striking 
contrast  with  her  cadaverous  aspect;  and  the 
painter  has  given  a  reddish  tint  to  her  feet,  which 
seem  already  to  have  felt  the  miraculous  influence.. 
A  blind  man  appears  behind,  led  by  his  sons ;  and 
on  the  left-hand  is  an  infant  supported  by  its  mo- 
ther, with  a  poor  blind  girl  and  other  figures. 
Near  the  centre  is  a  lunatic  boy,  rather  too  shock- 
ing a  subject  fur  such  a  picture ;  and  a  number  of 


CITV    OF  PHILADELPHIA. 


349 


bcing^ 
ire  de- 
imita- 

>posite 

ide   of 
311  the 
mns. 
ind  ad- 
e  about 
Frank- 
ints  oc- 
3   west, 
latue  is 
ure  ad- 
also  to 


I, 


ealing 
uilding, 
by    a 
whom 
us   dis- 
d.      In 
vo  men, 
striking 
nd    the 
,  which 
ifluence,^ 
s;  and 
its  mo- 
figures, 
shock- 
ber  of 


Jewish  Rabbis  are  collected,   with   countenances 
expressive  of  violent  passions. 

The  apartment  is  admirably  calculated  for  the 
display  of  the  picture,  which  is  universally  con- 
sidered one  of  the  finest  and  most  interestinjr  in 
the  United  States* 

The  Theatre^  in  Chestnut-street,  between  Sixth 
and  Seventh-streets,  has  a  marble  front,  with  the 
entrance  under  a  portico,  ornamented  with  statues 
of  Comedy  and  Tratredy. 

The  Masonic  Hall  is  a  little  beyond,  and  some- 
what in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  small  court  yard 
in  front. 

The  Academy  of  Arts,  Chestnut-street,  between 
Tenth  and  Eleventh,  contains  a  collection  of  stat- 
ues, (among  these  are  Canova's  Three  Graces,) 
busts,  &.C.  in  marble  and  plaster,  ranged  in  an 
apartment  lighted  from  the  top;  and  beyond  a 
gallery  of  pictures  with  many  specimens  of  the 
works  of  American  artists,  particularly  of  Alston, 
among  which  is  conspicuous  that  of  the  dead  body 
restored  to  life  by  the  bones  of  the  prophet  Elisha. 
The  Jeferson  Medical  College  is  in  Tenth-street, 
between  Chestnut  and  Walnut. 

In  Arch-street  is  a  Theatre, 

The  Public  Almshouse,  corner  of  Spruce  and 
Tenth-streets,  supports  and  employs  numerous 
paupers  ;  and  the  directors  established  the  Asylum 
for  Children  on  Fifth-street,  below  Prime-street. 

Public  Schools,  under  a  Board  of  Comptrollers, 
are  established  in  all  the  quarters  of  Philadelphia, 
on  the  Lancasterian  system. 

The  Orphans'  and  the  Widows'  Asylums  are 
in  the  western  part  of  the  city. 

29* 


I  oi 


Ml 


I 


850 


CITY  OF    PHILADELPHIA. 


; 


'I  i; 


li 


!i. 


m 


Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Penn's  housCf 
Letitia  court,      Vuited  States^  Mint,  <^c,  tSfC, 

There  are  two  Medical  Irstitutions  in  this  city, 
where  lectures  are  delivereci  to  a  great  number  of 
students. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  a  valuable  in- 
stitution. 

The  Friends^  Alms  House,  Wa!nut-street,  be- 
tween Fourth  and  Fifth-streets,  is  an  admirable 
institution,  where  poor  families  are  placed  in  se- 
parate houses,  among  small  gardens,  and  lurnished 
with  employment, 

Mr,  Bedell's  (episcopal)  church  in  Eighth-street, 
and  Mr.  Montgomery's,  in  Tenth,  are  considered 
the  finest  in  the  city.  The  latter  is  in  a  kind  of 
Gothic  style.  Near  the  Schuylkill  is  a  manufacto- 
ry of  Porcelain. 

The  banks  of  the  Schuylkill  are  well  formed  for 
the  display  of  the  largo  public  edifices  which  will 
be  perceived  ranged  along  their  eminences  for  two 
or  three  miles,  to  the  honor  of  Philadelphia  and 
the  ornament  of  its  environs. 

Mr.  PvatVs  Garden  is  about  3  miles  north-west 
from  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  worthy  of  a  visit. 
It  is  a  private  garden,  but  tickets  of  admission 
may  be  easily  obtained  through  respectable  in- 
habitants. The  situation  is  agreeable  and  com- 
manding, on  a  little  cape  or  promontory  on  the 
Schuylkill ;  and  from  the  gravelled  walks  the  visi- 
ter enjoys  a  view  down  the  river,  of  the  basin,  the 
dam,  the  water  works,  below  which  are  the  State 
Prison,  House  of  Refuge,  Hospital,  the  two 
bridges,  and  on  the  opposite  side  a  handsome 
seat  called   **  Woodlaiids."     These  grounds  were 


PENITENTIARY. 


351 


S  hoUSCr 

,his  city, 
imber  of 

lable  in- 

eet,  be- 
[Imirable 
?d  in  se- 
iirnished 

th-street» 
insidercd 
land  of 
anufacto- 

^-rr.ed  for 
bich  will 
2S  for  two 
Iphia  and 

orth-west 
of  a  visit, 
idmission 
table  in- 
nd   com- 
ry  on  tbe 
3  tbe  visi- 
jasin,  the 
tbe  State 
tbe   two 
landsome 
nds  were 


purchased,  in  1828,  for  the  site  of  a  Poor  House, 
on  the  plan  extensively  adopted  in  New-England. 

The  Schuylkill  Water  Works,  Pipes  more 
than  32^  miles;  expense  of  raisinjr,  $\\  per  day. 
There  is  a  lartj-c  stone  buildinir  of  ehasle  arcliitec- 
ture,  containing  5  large  water  wheels,  which  are 
capabl3  of  raising  7  millions  of  gallons  in  2-4  hours. 
They  are  turned  by  a  current  from  the  dam  above. 
The  reservoirs  are  on  the  hill  above,  which  is 
higher  than  any  part  of  the  city,  which  it  supplies. 
They  contain  together  11  millions  of  gallons. 
The  steam  engine  is  no  longer  used.  The  keep- 
er demands  nothinjr  for  showing  the  works. 

The  House  of  Refuge  was  established  in  1828. 

Penitentiary.  This  is  a  large  and  singular  con- 
struction, and  built  on  a  plan  different  from  that 
which  is  at  present  most  in  vogue  in  this  country. 
The  prisoners  are  to  be  all  kept  in  solitary  con- 
finement. 

The  front  of  the  prison  is  large  and  imposing, 
like  the  gate  of  a  fortress.  The  wall  is  40  feet 
high,  built  of  granite,  and  encloses  a  square  650 
feet  on  each  side.  The  rooms  of  the  guard,  keep- 
ers, and  servants,  as  well  as  the  cooking  and  wash- 
ing rooms,  are  in  the  front  building ;  while  the 
cells  are  formed  in  seven  long  stone  galleries,  rad- 
iating from  an  octagon  in  the  centre.  The  en- 
trances to  the  cells  are  through  little  yards  from 
the  outside,  and  each  has  a  wicket  door  in  the  gal- 
lery. A  sentinel  in  the  octagon,  by  turning  on  his 
heel,  can  look  through  all  the  galleries ;  and  the 
arched  roofs  reverberate  every  sound,  so  that  he 
can  hear  a  very  slight  noice. 

This  prison  is  built  on  a  principle  believed  by 


352 


CITY  OF  PIIILADEtl»HIA. 


many  to  be  erroneous.  Solitary  confinement  ]»  ^ 
very  uncMiual  kind  <>!'  punislinirnt  to  difle  ent  in- 
dividuals, and  very  expensive  to  ihe  public.  Tins 
iS  an  extensive  experiment  on  an  old  and  explod- 
ed system. 

The  Naval  Hospital  is  situated  aboUt  2  miie* 
southwest  from  the  centre  of  the  city.  The  ex-^ 
pen?e  is  defrayed  by  funds  contributed  by  the 
oilicers  and  seamen  of  the  U.  S.  Navy,  out  of  their 
pay.  The  building  is  on  an  eminence,  commands^^ 
an  extensive  view,  rnd  makes  a  line  appearance 
from  a  distance.  The  front  is  .j86  feet  in  lengthy 
3  stories  high,  and  will  be  large  enough  to  lodge 
300  or  400  persons.  The  first  story  is  of  granite, 
and  the  2d  and  3(1  of  marble,  both  which  kinds  of 
stone  are  found  in  abundance  in  the  vicinity  of 
Philadelphia.  Several  edifices  are  to  be  erected 
at  other  naval  stations  for  the  same  objects,  and 
supported  by  tiie  same  fund. 

The  Arsenal  is  situated  just  below  the  Hospital. 

The  Navy  Yard  {on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware.) 
Here,  as  in  most  of  the  principal  navy  yards  in 
the  U.  States,  ships  of  war  are  built  under  the 
shelter  of  immense  buildings,  which  protect  the 
workmen  and  the  timber  from  exposure  to  the 
weather. 

The  north  side  of  the  navy  yard  is  devoted  to 
brick  buildings  for  the  residence  of  officers,  ship 
timber,  &-c.  while  at  the  south  end  are  the  work- 
shops. The  Marine  Barracks  are  on  the  western 
side ;  and  the  area  of  the  yard,  which  is  walled 
with  brick,  is  about  12  acres. 

The  interests  of  the  city,  as  well  as  the  coasting 
trade,  will  be  benefitted  by  the  construction  of  the 


CITY  OF    PHILADELPHIA. 


353 


t: 


enl  !!<  d 
•ent  in- 
.  This 
explod- 

2  miied 

The  eX' 

by  ihe 

of  their 

learance 
1  lengthy 
to  lodge 
*  granite, 
kinds  cf 
c'inity   of 
e  erected 
ect?,  and 

lospital. 
laware.) 
yards  in 
lidcr  the 
biect  the 
•e  to  the 

voted  to 
|ers,  ship 
le  work- 
western 
walled 


coasting 
Ln  of  the 


great  Breakwater  at  the  moiith  of  Delaware  Bay. 
It  is  an  expensive  work;  but  by  aii<;rding  a  pro- 
tection to  vessels  on  the  coast  ii\  danjreroiis  wea- 
ther,  will  speedily  eil'ect  a  saving  equal  to  the 
expense. 

The  extensive  meadows  south  of  Philadelphia, 
present  a  beautiful  scene  of  fertility  and  cultiva- 
tion. A  ride  in  that  direction  at  morning  or  even- 
ing is  recommended. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  Canal,  A 
steamboat  plies  between  Philadelphia  and  the  head 
of  the  Canul  iit  Delaware  city,  five  miles  below 
Newcastle. 

This  canal  is  for  sloops  of  the  largest  class,  and 
schooners:  the  locks  being  lOO  by  22  feet,  and 
the  canal  60  feet  wide  at  the  water  line.  It  was 
originally  intended  to  secure  a  depth  of  only  8 
feet:  but  it  has  since  been  increased  to  10  feet. 

The  principal  objects  upon  the  line  which  will 
interest  a  stranger,  are 

The  Harbor  on  the  Delaware  at  Delaware  City. 
It  is  formed  by  two  piers  running  into  the  water; 
one  five  hundred  feet  long,  and  the  other  six  hun- 
dred, with  a  return  pier  of  one  hundred  ieet. 
Boats  enter  the  first  lock  a  little  distance  from 
this. 

Swivel  Bridge.  The  first  of  three  swivel 
bridges,  is  passed  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from 
the  Delaware. 

St.  George^s  Marsh  is  a  low,  flat  tract  of  land, 
over  which  the  tide  ebbed  and  flowed  until  a  great 
embankment  was  raised,  which  serves  as  a  towing 
path,  and  excludes  the  water.  The  soil  was  so 
fioft  and  light,  that  earth  was  brought  from  a  dis- 


4n 


II 


fc     !f*i 


M   f 


354 


THE  PENNSYLVANIA  CANAL. 


tancc  to  form  the  bank;  wluch  gradually  sunk  sa 
far  that  it  is  suppcscd  to  have  displaced,  in  son[ie 
parts,  a  quantity  tupial  to  a  column  of  forty  feet. 

The  Deep  C/ut  is  live  miles  Ion*,'",  where  the 
height  of  the  barik  varies  from  8  to  70  feet.  Over 
the  middle  of  ^  extended  the  Summit  Bridge, 
reaching  from  hill  to  hill,  with  a  single  arch  of  235 
feet  span,  1)0  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  canal. 
Schooners  and  the  largest  sloops  may  pass  beneath 
with  tfieir  masts  standing. 

The  principal  reservoir  on  the  line  is  a  p»)nd  of 
100  acres,  ten  feet  in  depth. 

[The  Pennsylvania  Canal. 

Under  this  general  name  is  comprehended  a 
great  and  extensive  system  of  internal  improve- 
ments, for  several  years  designed  b}^  the  Legisla- 
ture of  this  state.  Numerous  plans  for  canals  and 
railways  have  been  proposed  and  considered,  sur- 
veys have  been  made  of  the  principal  routes  sup- 
posed to  be  capable  of  improvement  for  the  benefit 
of  the  public,  and  considerable  progress  has  been 
made  in  some  places  in  works  to  connect  the  wa- 
ters of  the  Ohio  and  Susquehannah,  while  naviga- 
tion has  been  opened  up  to  the  Mauch  Chunk 
Mines,  &c.  It  will  be  some  time  before  the 
western  works  will  be  so  far  completed  as  to  at- 
tract many  travellers  from  the  established  routes^ 
if  they  ever  are.  Canal  travelling  westward  may 
be  commenced  at  Philadelphia  on  the  Schuylkill^ 
and  by  the  Union  Canal. 

In  1829,  there  were  435  miles  of  finished  canals 
in  Pennsylvania,  and  between  2  and  300  miles  re- 
main to  be  completed. 

The  great   western  plan  of  internal  improve-^ 


sunk  sa 
in   some 
y  feet, 
lerc    the 
t.     Over 
Bridge, 
:h  of  235 
he  canal. 
3  beneath 


1  pon 


dof 


hcndcd  a 
improve- 
3  Legisla- 
janals  and 
ered,  sur- 
utes  sup- 
ic  benefit 
has  been 
ct  the  wa- 
e  naviga- 
ch  Chunk 
efore    the 
d  as  to  at« 
ed  routes^ 
ward  may 
ichuylkilU 

led  canals 
miles  re- 
improve** 


KOUTES  TO  THE  COAL  MINES. 


355 


nients  undertaken  by  the  Pennsylvania  Canal 
Commissioners,  ''From  INliddlelown  stretches  to 
the  Juniata — thence  up  the  river  to  the  foot  of  the 
AMeghany  Mountains  on  the  east,  and  crossing  the 
ridg(;  to  conn(?ct  the  waters  of  the  ISu-^quehannah 
with  the  Allegliany  and  Ohio  rivers,  ascending  the 
main  branch  of  the  Susquehannah  with  the  divid- 
ing point  of  the  eastern  and  western  branches,  it 
contemplates  an  improved  navigation  to  the 
sources  of  these  great  streams,  as  well  as  some  of 
their  tributary  branches — presenting  one  connect- 
ed chain  of  improved  or  canal  navigation  of  not 
less  than  five  hundred  miles  in  extent.*' 

The  eastern  part  of  this  work  was  completed  in 
1827 — from  the  Susquehannah  at  Middlelown  to 
Harrisburgh.  A  Basin  is  formed  in  the  river  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Swatara,  opposite  the  basin  oi 
the  Union  Canal,  with  wiiich  it  communicates  by 
a  lock  of2J  feet  lift.  It  has  also  an  outlet  lock, 
and  a  lock  opening  into  the  Swatara  of  9  feet  lift. 
The  canal  lies  principally  in  an  easy,  alluvial  soil, 
from  the  Susquehannah  to  Ilarisburgh,  and  pass- 
es over  extensive  tracts  of  level  country.  There 
are  ten  locks  in  that  distance,  beginning  \vith  the 
outlet  lock  at  Middletown.  Thev  are  all  17  feet 
by  90  in  the  chamber.  The  canal  passes  on  aque- 
ducts over  Paxton,  Fishing,  Stony,  and  Clark's 
creeks,  and  is  supplied  from  the  Susquehannah, 
from  fifteen  miles  above  Harrisburgh.] 

ROUTES   10  THE  COAL  MINES. 

In  consequence  of  the  opening  of  the  vast  beds 
of  coal  between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  riv- 
ers, at  a  distance  of  about  80  or  1 00  miles  north 
of  Phiiddelphia,  that  tract  of  country  has  become 
an  object  of  great  interest. 


^ 


1 1 


356 


ROUTES    TO    THE    COAL    MINES. 


jtsi 


\y 


ii 


i( 


Tlic  Union  Canal  runs  from  tlic  Scluiylkill  at 
Readiiii^  to  Midtllctown  on  the  Susciuchannah. 

[The  triivellcr  may  make   Bedford  Springs  an 
object  on  this  rout(».] 

In  the  tract  of  country  north  from  Philadelphia 
are  found  inexhaustibh;  (|uaiiliiies»  of  coal,  in  ele- 
vated   ridges    and    mountains    of   the    Allef^hany 
range,  which  are  supposed   to  be  connected   with 
those  which  are  known  on  the  western  side  of  the 
range,  although  thiy  are  of  diOefent    characteris- 
tics.    The  western  coal  is  easily  combustible,  and 
resembles    that   imported    from    Liverpool,    AlC., 
while  the  former  is  hard,  very  difficult  to   kindle, 
and  burns  with  very  little  flame.     It  is,  however, 
of  great  purity,  being  of  that  sort  known  to  geol- 
ogists by  the  name  of  Anthracite,  and  is  now  very 
extensively  used  for  fuel  in   Philadelphia,    New- 
York,  and  different  parts    of  the   country.     The 
varieties  of  this  coal  come  down  in  a  kind  of  rude 
square  boats,  called  arks,    drawing  only  12  or  15 
inches  of  water,  but  containing  about  250  bushels 
each,  which  may  usually  be  seen  on  the  shores  of 
the  Schuylkill,  and  at  the  docks  in  the  Delaware. 
It  is  only  a  few  years  since  this  coal  was  supposed 
to  be  entirely  worthless;  and  now   the  demand  is 
enormous. 

The  whole  length  of  the  line  of  navigation, 
undertaken  and  completed  by  the  Schuylkill  com- 
pany, is  110  miles  ;  and  the  work  is  the  greatest 
ever  performed  in  this  country  by  private  individ- 
uals. It  commences  at  the  Lancaster  Schuylkill 
bridge,  and  ends  at  Mount  Carbon.  Sixty-two 
miles  of  it  are  by  canals,  and  46  by  pools  in  the 
river.     The  number  of  houses  for  lock  keepers  is 


4\ 


iiylkill  at 
nnah. 
)rings  an 

iladclpbia 
ill,  in  clc- 
(^lU'ghany 
cled   with 
jitle  of  the 
inracteris- 
slible,  and 
loul,     &.C.9 
to   kindle, 
,  however, 
n  to  geol- 
i  now  very 
hia,    New- 
itry.     The 
id  of  rude 
V  12  or  15 
50  bushels 
e  shores  of 

Delaware, 
supposed 

demand  is 

lavigation, 
Ikill  com- 
le  greatest 
ite  individ- 
jSchuylkill 
Sixty-two 
lols  in  the 
I  keepers  is 


ROUTE    TO    THE    SCIIITYLKILL    MINKS.        357 

65,  tlio  number  of  locks  below  Rrading,  39,  (toll 
6^  cents,)  and  nbove  Reading,  8(i,  (toll  4  cents,) 
being  in  the  whole  lli5,  of  which  ti»  are  guard 
locks;  ovorconiing  a  fall  of  ()1()  feet,  'foil  on  a 
ton,  $11  35J  cents.  In  1827,  KW9  boats  were 
loaded  at  Mount  (^arbon,  for  Philadelphia,  with 
coal:  in  all,  31,364  tons.  Numerous  railroads 
extend  to  the  Schuylkill  from  the  various  coal 
mines. 

Eight  ranges  of  mountains  pass  through  Penn- 
sylvania from  north-east  to  south-west,  and  the 
height  of  land  is  -.upposed  to  be  8  or  900  feet  in 
the  lowest  place,  so  that  the  rivers  descend  very 
much  in  their  courses.  It  has  been  necessary  to 
make  morr  lockage  on  the  SuhuylUill  line,  than 
on  the  whole  Erie  canal  in  New-York.  Besides 
this,  the  country  is  of  the  transition  formation, 
with  sloping  strata,  which  cause  much  leaking. 

Road  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Mines,  at  Mauck 
Chunk,  Philadelphia  to  Rising  Sun,  4  miles; 
Branchtown,  ((Quid's  tavern,)  4;  Shoemakcrtown, 
8;  Jenkintown,  10;  Abington,  12;  Willowgrove, 
14;  Horsham,  16;  Graham  Park,  22;  Newville, 
— ;  Doyleston,  26;  Danville,  29;  Roderick's  ta- 
vern, — ;  Tohicken  bridge,  — ;  Easton,  (see  page 
363,)  5;  Mauch  Chunk,  (see  page  365,)  — .  The 
traveller  may  take  either  the  Stage  Coacht  or  the 

Canal  Route  to  the  Schuylkill  Coal 
Mines,  at  Mount  Carbon.  The  canal  boats  start 
on  the  Schuylkill  at  regular  hours,  ft>r  which  the 
traveller  is  referred  to  the  newspapers.  A  car- 
riage will  be  necessary,  as  the  boats  lie  at  th<' 
western  extremity  of  the  city.  On  this  route  a 
boat  with  one  horse  performs  the  work  of  7  wag- 

80 


i 


rr 


m 


m' 


^8 


ROUTES    TO    THE    COAL    MINES. 


ons  and  28  horses.  Merchandise  goes  from  Phil- 
adelphia to  Mount  Curbon  for  $5  a  ton. 

Manayunk  is  a  large  manufacturing  village,  be- 
gun only  about  1819  or  1820.  The  manufactories 
are  furnished  with  water  by  a  canal  3  miles  in 
length,  through  which  the  boat  will  pass. 

[The  county  of  Delaware,  which  is  very  small, 
contains  numerous  manufactories  of  different  de- 
scriptions, moved  by  water.] 

Passing  from  tlie  canal,  the  boat  enters  the  Flat 
Rock  Basin  and  the  river. 

Plymouth  Locks. — Here  is  a  canal  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  long.  The  marble  quarries 
are  in  this  vicinity  ;  from  which  stone  is  sent  to 
Philadelphia. 

Norristown  contains  some  fme  houses,  as  well 
as  a  court  house,  jail,  and  two  churches.  A  bridge 
has  been  erected  here  800  feet  lonjr. 

Pottsgi'ove,  36  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  a 
pretty  village. 

Readings  54  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  a  place 
of  considerable  importance,  inhabited  by  Germans, 
and  contains  some  handsome  public  buildings. 
The  Union  Canal  begins  below  the  town  at  a 
point  60  miles  from  Philadelphia. 

[The  Union  Canal  passes  up  the  western 
shore  of  the  river,  to  the  valley  of  the  Tulpe- 
hocken ;  and  follows  that  valley  till  within  five 
miles  of  Lebanon,  where  begins  the  summit  level. 
In  all  this  distance  it  rises  311  feet,  by  numerous 
locks  of  4  and  8  feet  lift.  The  canal  is  24  feet 
wide  at  bottom,  4  deep,  and  36  on  the  surface. 
The  Summit  Level  is  ten  miles  and  78  chains  in 
length.     On  this  part  of  the  canal  is  the  Tunnel; 


ROUTES    TO    THE    COAL    MINES. 


359 


m 


Phil- 


age,  be- 
actoried 
miles  in 

y  small, 
rent  de- 

the  Flat 

ut  three- 
quarries 
i  sent  to 

,  as  well 
Abridge 

lia,    is   a 

s  a  place 
ermans, 
uildings. 
wn   at   a 

western 
Tulpe- 
ithin  five 
mit  level, 
lumerous 
3  24  feet 

surface. 

hains  in 

Tunnel ; 


jr 


an  excavation  bored  through  a  hill  for  a  distance 
of  729  feet.     18  feet  in  breadth  and  14  feet  high. 

The  great  water-wheel,  at  the  mouth  of  Clark's 
Creek,  is  36  feet  in  diameter,  and  raises  the  water 
from  the  Swatara  Feeder  into  the  summit,  near 
Lebanon.  It  works  two  forcing  pumps  14^  inches 
in  diameter,  and  propels  water  through  a  raising 
main  8oO  feet  long,  20  in  diameter,  to  a  perpen- 
dicular heiglit  of  93  feet.  The  Union  canal  was 
commenced  in  1823  and  finished  in  1827;  and, 
including  the  navigable  Feeder,  is  above  80  miles 
in  extent.  The  whole  expense  was  about  a  million 
and  a  half. 

The  summit  level  lies  on  a  limestone  soil,  which 
makes  it  necessary  to  plank  the  bottom  and  sides 
of  the  canal.  The  summit  level  opens  westwardly 
upon  the  valley  of  Clark's  Creek.  Hence  the 
canal  passes  on  the  Swatara  river,  which  has  iwo 
dams,  and  whose  course  it  follows  to  Middletown 
on  the  Susquehannah.  The  descent  to  this  river 
from  the  summit  level  is  192  feet  6  inches,  sur- 
mounted by  37  locks.  There  are  12  aqueducts 
on  the  whole  route,  one  of  them  276  feet  long, 
and  another  165.  There  are  92  lift  locks,  75  feet 
wide  and  72  long  :  most  of  them  laid  with  water 
cement. 

We  return  to  the  Schuylkill  Navigation.] 

From  Reading,  the  road  passes  near  Duncan^s 
Job^  a  piece  of  deep  cutting  in  a  solid  rock,  60 
feet  down.  Numerous  shafts  have  heen  sunk  near 
the  Schuylkill  for  Anthracite  coal.  The  Peach 
Orchard  mines  afford  heaiitiful  particolored  speci- 
mens. In  these,  and  others,  specks  and  lumps 
of  perfect  charcoal  have  been  found,  imbedded  in 


'r'' 


III 


360 


ROUTES    TO    THE    COAL    MINES. 


!•  If  ill 


I  f  i 

i  ' 


the  fossil — with  other  appearances  which  tend  to 
raise  many  conjectii.es  concerning  tlie  original 
formation  of  these  mines.  The  road  to  Hamburgh 
from  Reading  lies  throuijh  the  Great  Limestone 
Valley  of  Pennsylvania;  which  has  the  Kittatiniiy 
'chain  of  mountains  on  the  north,  and  the  Blue 
Ridge  on  the  south.  The  surface  is  beautifully 
varied  by  the  natural  undulations  of  the  surface; 
and  the  road  affords  a  very  fine  succession  of 
beautiful  scenes,  where  the  well-cultivated  farms 
are  usually  backed  by  ranges  of  fine  mountains. 
The  inhabitants  dwell  in  good,  and  often  hand- 
some houses,  while  their  great  stone  barns  speak 
thorough  husbandry.  The  Mountain  Dam,  near 
Hamburgh,  is  27  feet  high. 

Hamburgh.  This  is  a  small  village,  with  a 
church  situated  in  a  romantic  position,  at  the  en- 
trance of  the 

Schuylkill  IVatei^  Gap.— This  is  a  narrow  gorge, 
through  which  the  river  runs  over  a  steep  and 
rocky  channel  for  four  or  five  miles;  leaving  no 
room  upon  its  banks,  which  rise  several  hundred 
feet.  The  road  has  been  cut  out  alonff  the  face  of 
one  of  these  ranges,  at  a  great  elevation.  The 
views  which  are  here  afl^orded  to  the  traveller  are 
romantic  and  varied  in  a  high  degree;  presenting 
the  woody  mountains  in  different  directions,  with 
the  course  of  the  Schuylkill  winding  through 
them. 

The  Little  Schvylldll  River,  a  branch  of  the 
principal  stream,  runs  through  a  valley  of  the 
same  general  desciiption;  and  here  lies  the  road 
to  Mount  Carbon.  The  country  will  liardly  ad- 
rait  of  any  cultivation. 


th] 


MOUNT    CARBON. 


3(il 


?nd  to 

•ij>inal 

burgh 

BStone 

atinny 

J   Blue 

itifuUy 

irface ; 

ion  of 
farms 

nlains. 
hand- 
speak 

T,  near 

with  a 
the  en- 
gorge, 
p   and 
ing  no 
undred 
face  of 
The 
lor  are 
senting 
IS,  with 
hrough 

of  the 

of  the 

"lie  road 

lly   ad' 


The  TunncL—Th] 


ph 


hill  h 


le  lunncL. — mis  is  a  place  wnere  a  mil  iias 
been  bored  through  375  yards  for  a  canal,  about 
three  miles  from  Orvvigsburgh. 

Port  Carbon,  at  the  head  of  the  Schuylkill 
navigation,  is  a  point  at  which  the  railroads  of 
Mill  Creek  and  the  valley  terminate. 

Orwigsburgh,  about  eij«ht  miles  from  the  Gap, 
is  three  miles  from  the  ^iver,  and  enjoys  an  agree- 
able situation,  although  the  soil  is  not  very  good. 
The  German  language  here  prevails,  and  is  used 
in  the  church  as  well  as  in  the  ordinary  concerns 
of  life, 

MOUNT  CARBON,  eight  miles,  is  in  sight  of 
several  coal  mines. 

The  coal  country  in  this  region  begins  in  Lu- 
zerne, on  the  upper  part  of  the  Lackawanna  Riv- 
er, following  its  course  to  the  Susquehannah,  and 
along  that  stream,  principally  on  the  eastern  bank, 
to  18  miles  beyond  Wiikesbarre.  It  runs  south 
to  the  Lehigh  River,  and  thence  south-west, 
through  Schuylkill  county. 

It  is  estimated  to  extend  about  70  miles ;  and 
about  the  middle  of  the  range  is  8  or  9  miles  wide, 
growing  narrower  towards  each  end.  At  Mount 
Carbon  the  coal  occurs  in  beds  4  or  5  feet  in  thick- 
ness, generally  running  east  and  west ;  and  dip- 
ping to  the  south  at  45  degrees,  with  a  slate  rock 
immediately  over  it,  and  strata  of  sandstone  and 
earth  above.  The  slate,  as  usual,  in  the  vicinity 
of  coal,  presents  the  impressions  of  organized 
substances  at  some  ancient  period  imbedded  in  its 
«'Mbstance  :  such  as  the  leaves  of  laurel,  fern,  &c. 

In  consequence  of  the  inclination  of  the  coal 
veins  into  the  earth,  the  miners  have,  in  some  pla- 

30* 


ir 

m 

"4t 


'I  I 


I  I 


!;W, 


362 


ROUTE    TO    THiJ    COAL    MINES. 


'i 


'0. 


;!  iHii 


ces,  sunk  shafts  to  ihe  depth  of  160  feet,  with  lat- 
eral excavations,  east  and  west,  of  various  lengths, 
to  300.  Two  small  carriages  called  Trams,  are 
used  in  a  sloping  shaft  to  bring  the  coal  out,  be- 
ing made  to  descend  by  turns;  but  in  the  horizon- 
tal one,  wliicli  has  l)een  carried  in  about  500  feet, 
they  employ  wheelbarrows.  Some  of  the  veins 
run  perpendicularly. 

Sharp  Mountain,  600  feet  high,  and  Broad 
Mountain,  0(»0,  are  penetrated  by  numerous  mines. 
The  coal  is  dug  out  with  wedges,  drills,  and  sled- 
ges, &-C.  and  as  it  costs  only  about  $50  to  open 
a  mine,  and  nothing  else  but  labor  in  digging  and 
raising  it,  the  advantages  are  not  confined  to  cap- 
italists. VVaggonerrJ  are  ready  to  transport  the 
coal  to  the  landings,  and  put  it  into  boats. 

The  canal  has  been  extended  from  Port  Carbon 
up  to  Mill  Creek,  which  will  supply  great  quanti- 
ties of  coal. 

Route  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Mines,  at  Mauch 
Chunk.  The  traveller  going  from  Philadelphia 
to  the  Lehigh  Mines,  may  take  one  of  the  steam- 
boats to  Bristol,  whence  a  stage  coach  starts,  on 
their  arrival,  for  Newtown  and  New-Hope,  34 
miles  from  Philadelphia  ;  and  thence  for  Easton, 
36  miles  more,  nearly  all  of  which  is  along  the 
bank  of  the  Delaware,  and  commands  a  view  of 
its  wild  and  interesting  scenery.  * 

There  are  three  routes  from  Philadelphia  by 
which  Mauch  Chunk  may  be  reached:  1st.  By 
the  way  of  Bethlehem  ;  2d.  By  the  wiy  of  Easton 
through  Doylestown ;  and  3d.  By  the  way  of  Bris- 
tol, also  throagh  Easton.  By  either  route  you 
reach  the  village  in  a  day  and  a  half.  [For  these 
places,  see  Index.'] 


Lth  lat- 
nigths, 
IS,  are 
ut,  be- 
orizon- 
0  feet, 
e  veins 

Broad 
5  mines. 
(1  sled- 
0  open 
ng    and 

to  cap- 
>ort  the 

Carhon 
quanti- 

Mauch 
delphia 
steam- 
rts,  on 
pe,  34 
lEaston, 
ng  the 
lew  of 

)hia  by- 
It  St.  By 

Easton 
lof  Bris- 

ite  you 
Ir  these 


EASTON. 


363 


New-Hope  is  in  a  romantic  situation  ;  and  Goat 
Hill  rises  opposite  to  the  height  of  500  feet,  its 
top  affording  a  fine  view.  2  miles  south  of  this 
village  is  Ingham's  Spring,  which  furnishes  a 
supply  of  water  to  many  wheels.  Bridges  cross 
the  Delaware  to  New-Jersey  at  New-Hope  and 
Mitchell's. 

Delaware  Water  Gap.  The  scenery  at  this 
spot  is  romantic  and  beautiful.  The  course  of  the 
river  appears  at  a  little  distance  as  if  arrested  by 
two  opposite  mountains,  between  which  it  flows 
in  a  narrow  channel,  suddenly  contracting  itself 
to  a  furlong's  breadth,  from  a  broad,  smooth,  and 
unbroken  sheet  like  a  lake  of  considerable  extent. 
There  is  some  fertile  land  in  the  vicinity,  and  the 
hills  contain  many  mineral  treasures;  iron  ore, 
&c.  vfec. 

EASTON.  This  is  a  village  of  some  size,  and 
a  central  point  from  which  numerous  roads  di- 
verge, and  stage  coaches  run  in  various  directions. 
It  is  situated  in  a  rich  valley,  enclosed  by  the 
South  and  Blue  Mountains.  It  is  about  52  miles 
from  Philadelphia,  and  contains  3000  inhabitants. 
Within  a  compass  of  a  mile  and  a  half  are  1 8  mills ; 
and  250,000  barre's  of  flour  are  annually  sent  to 
the  capital.  (Writing  slates  are  quarried  in  this 
vicinity.) 

The  following  is  a  list  of  distances  from  EaQ- 
ton  on  the  different  stage  routes.  New-York,  70 
miles;  Schooley's  Mountain,  23;  Morristown,  4^  ; 
New-Brunswick.  45  ;  Bethlehem,  12;  Mauch 
Chunk,  34;  Nazareth,  7;  Delaware  Wind  Gap, 
20;  Stroudsburgh,  27  ;  Wilkesbarre,  52 ;  Belvi- 
dere,  12;  Reading,  52;  Newtown,  (Sussex  coun- 
ty,) 40. 


M 


364 


ROUTE    TO    THE    COAL    MINES. 


From  Newtown  a  coach  runs  to  Montrose,  Os- 
wego, Ithica,  and  Geneva,  and  communicates  with 
the  Erie  Canal,  and  with  the  direct  route  to 
Buffalo. 

At  Easton  will  be  seen  the  dam  over  the  Dela- 
ware, at  the  termination  of  the  works  for  improv- 
ing the  navigation  of  Lehigh  River,  from  Mauch 
Chunk  to  this  place. 

The  road  to  Mauch  Chunk  leads  through  B':th' 
lehem,  12  miles.  This  is  a  neatly  built  place,  in  a 
romantic  and  delightful  situation,  along  the  course 
of  a  swift  running  brook.  It  is5  inhabited  by  Ger- 
mans, and  little  English  v/ill  be  heard  spoken  in 
the  place.  There  is  an  old  church  and  an  academy 
for  the  education  of  girls,  under  the  management 
of  the  Moravians,  to  which  sect  the  inhabitants 
belong.  A  little  beyond  Bethlehem  the  country 
begins  to  assume  a  mure  mountainous  appearance; 
sKivA  along  the  banks  of  the  Lehigh  they  rise  to  a 
height  of  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet,  or  even 
more. 

It  is  related  by  tradition,  that  nearly  100  years 
ago,  three  men  set  out  from  Bristol,  to  walk,  be- 
tween sun  and  sun,  for  the  title  to  as  much  land 
as  the  best  pedestrian  of  them  could  cross  in  that 
time.  The  successful  one  (Edward  Marshall) 
gained  for  the  contractors,  from  the  Indians,  a 
tract  extending  north-west  to  Still  Water.  He 
passed  up  the  Delaware  and  L  high,  round  Po- 
€ono  Mountain,  ^c.  a  distance  computed  at  119 
or  120  miles. 

The  works  on  the  Lehigh  River  are  on  a  large 
scale,  and  worthy  of  particular  remark.  The 
river  descends  365   feet,   and  requires  52   locks 


lillll 


fp 


MAUCII    CHUNK    RAILWAY. 


3G5 


•ose,  Os- 
ates  with 
route   to 

he  Dela- 
r  improv- 
n   Mauch 

igh  B.th- 
)lar,e,  in  a 
he  course 
(1  by  Ger- 
spoken  in 
1  academy 
inagement 
nhabitants 
e  country 
pearance ; 
rise  to  a 
,  or  even 

100  years 
walk,  be- 
luch  land 
)ss  in  that 
Marshall) 
Indians,  a 
[ater.  He 
•ound  Po- 
tedat  119 


a 


on  a  large 
rk.  The 
53  locks 


The  locks  are  intended  for  the  passage  of  steam- 
boats capable  of  carrying  150  tons  of  coal,  100 
feet  long  and  30  wide;  21  dams;  the  canals  60 
fee-  wide  at  the  bottom,  with  5  feet  of  water. 

Mauch  Chunk  shows  mountains  perhaps  1000 
feet  high.  The  Lehigh  Water  Cap,  '25  mil  s 
from  Easton  and  1 1  from  Lehighton,  0  miles  from 
Mauch  Chunk.  The  river,  for  a  mile,  passes 
through  an  opening  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  with  barely 
room  for  the  road  between  the  shore  and  a  preci- 
pice. Near  this  spot  is  the  DeviPs  Pulpit,  a  re- 
markable cavity  in  the  rocks. 

The  first  objects  that  attract  attention  near  the 
village  of  Mauch  Chunk,  are  the  lock  in  the  river, 
and  the  Chute,  or  inclined  plane,  at  the  end  of  the 
railway,  down  which  the  loaded  coal  cars  slide  to 
the  wharf  on  the  river,  where  they  load  the  boats 
and  arks.  The  latter  ca:  ry  about  1 0  tons.  The  noise 
of  the  cars  coming  down  the  railway  will  often  be 
heard  rumbling  as  the  traveller  approaches  the 
village. 

Mauch  Chunk,  90  miles  from  New- York,  avd 
70  from  Philadelphia.  Stage  coaches  run  to 
Easton  daily — fare  $1  50 — also  to  Berwick,  Nf  w- 
ton,  and  Buffalo.  The  village  is  shut  in  by  rude 
mountains,  of  such  height  that  the  sun  is  invisible 
to  many  of  the  inhabitants  during  the  short  days. 
The  Hotel  commands  a  view  of  some  parts  of 

The  Railway,  which  leads  from  near  the  coal 
mines  to  the  Lehigh  River.  This  was  the  second 
ever  constructed  in  the  United  States.  It  extends 
a  distance  of  9  miles,  along  the  side  of  a  moun- 
tain. The  sleepers  are  of  wood,  tlic  rails  are 
also  of  wood,  4  by  6  inches,  and  covered  with  an 


I 


\\^ 


I*        ■>? 


I 


966 


THE    COAL    MINES* 


iron  plate  |  of  an  inch  thick.     The  whole  con- 


struction cost  only  $4,500  a  mile.  The  coal  mine 
lies  a  little  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  mountain  ; 
and  thij  coal  cars  are  first  drawn  by  horses  to  the 
beginninjr  of  the  railivuy  up  an  acclivity  of  |  of  a 
mile.  The  summit  is  982  feet  above  the  river. 
Pleasure  wagons  are  occasSoMally  used  to  carry 
strangers  up  and  down  the  railway;  but  they  often 
go  up  in  tbe  returning  cars.  The  average  rise  of 
the  way  is  18  inches  in  100  feet,  which  is  scarcely 
perceptible  to  the  eye,  and  permits  a  single  horse 
to  draw  up  three  empty  cars.  In  coming  down, 
however,  by  their  own  gravity,  the  carriages 
would,  if  permitted,  move  wiih  immense  rapidity. 
The  road  generally  passes  along  a  narrow  shelf, 
which  is  alarming  to  a  stranger,  particularly  in  de- 
scending; some  of  the  precipices  being  500  or 
601)  feet.  The  Tunnel  is  seen  in  going  up,  about 
400  feet  above  the  road.  It  is  12  feet  high,  20 
wide,  and  about  800  long.  It  was  cut  through  the 
mountain  in  1826,  to  obtain  a  short  passage  to  a 
bed  of  coal  supposed  to  lie  on  the  other  side.  A 
shaft  was  sunk  sixty-four  feet  from  the  summit  of 
the  hill  without  finding  coal;  five  hundred  feet 
beyond  this  shaft  towards  the  north,  a  hole  has 
been  bored  to  the  depth  of  110  feet,  coal  was 
found  at 80  feet,  and  the  augur  continued  in  coal  to 
the  extremity  of  the  bore.  The  Company,  however, 
were  disappointed;  but  they  have  an  inexhaus- 
tible suppl)'^  of  this  useful  article,  as  their  land  ex- 
tends 14  miles  back  from  the  river,  and  along  the 
road;  and  10 or  12  miles  are  underlaid  by  beds 
of  anthracite  coal. 

The   cars    may  be  stopped   immediately  by  a 


THE    COAL    MINES. 


367 


jle  con- 
oal  nine 
ountain  ; 
s  to    the 
3f  fof  a 
le  river, 
to  carry 
^ey  often 
e  rise  of 
scarcely 
le   horse 
ig  down, 
carriages 
rapidity, 
ow  shelf, 
irlyin  de- 
g  500   or 
up,  about 
high,  20 
rough  the 
;aije  to  a 
side.     A 
ummit  of 
dred    feet 
hole   has 
coal   was 
in  coal  to 
however, 
inexhaus- 
r  land  ex- 
along  the 
by  i3ed3 

Itely  by  a 


long  lever  which  brings  strong  bearers  against  two 
of  the  wheels,  and  causes  great  friction.  The 
guide  to  every  brigade  of  eleven  cars  holds  a  rope 
attached  to  all  the  levers.  A  curious  machine, 
called  the  Brake,  is  also  used. 

There  is  generally  a  stop  to  be  made  in  the 
midst  of  the  course,  to  wait  for  other  cars  pass- 
ing, and  to  oil  the  wheels. 

The  cars  weigh  about  1500  lbs.  each    and    run 
on  wheels  two  feet  in  diameter.     Strangers  often 
make  an  excursion  in  them  for  the  novelty  of  the 
mode  of  travelling.     At  the  end  of  the  railroad  is 
a  platform  on  the  bank  of  the  Lehigh  River,  down 
which  the  coal  is  let  over  one  of  the  rails    on    an 
inclined  plane  of  IbO  feet  (200  feet  perpendicular 
height,)  to   the  stone  houses,    the  wharf,  and    the 
boats.     Each  loaded  car  is  connected  to  an  empty 
one,  which  it  draws   up,    by    a    rope    that    passts 
round  a  large  cylinder  or  drum.     A  car  goes  down 
in  about  1  minute  and  20  seconds.     The  noise   of 
the  cars  on  the  railway  is  perceptible   at  a   great 
distance.     In  1827,  132  cars  descended  in   a  day, 
with  198  tons  of  coal.     The  Mine,  or  quarry,   as 
it  ought,  perhaps,  properly    to    be    called,    opens 
upon  the  road  by  several  passages,  cut  deep  in  the 
earth.     These  conduct  into  an  area  formed  by  the 
removal  of  many    thousand    tons   of  coal,    which 
have  been  dug  out  in  such  a   manner   as  to  keep 
the  surface    on  an  inclined  plane,  where  the  carts 
drive  in,  load,  and  then  pass  out  at  the  other  pas- 
sage.    The  coal  is  very    hard,    pure,   and    black, 
with   a  beautiful  and  conchoidal  fracture,  and  per- 
fectly   clean   in    handling.     The    surface    of    the 
ground  was  covered  with   a  coat  of  sand   2  feet 


w 

iff 

■    is' 

t 


368 


LOVVRYTOWN, 


1 


thick,  interspersed  with  sandstone;  under  that  was 
8  feet  of  Mack  pulverised  coal;  and  then  came 
the  coal  itself.  Some  berutiful  impressions  of 
fern  leaves  have  been  found  in  the  rocks. 

LowrytowUf  15  miles  above  Mauch  Chunk,  is 
situated  on  the  Lehigh  River,  in  the  midst  of  a 
most  wild  and  romantic  region.  Here  arc  four 
saw-mills,  which  arc  supplied  with  timber  from 
the  surrounding  mountains;  the  trees  being  cut 
far  above,  and  slid  down  their  steep  sides  into  the 
stream.  Arks  go  down,  as  on  the  lower  parts  of 
the  river,  by  being  set  off  on  the  flood  caused  by 
opening  the  gate  of  the  dam.  Lrdies  sometimes 
pas.^  down  in  this  manner,  boxes  being  resorted 
to  instead  of  arks,  to  keey  out  the  water.  Mate- 
rials for  building  arks  at  Mauch  Chunk,  (fee.  are 
supplied  from  Lowrytown. 


; 


with 
front 
bank. 

Cr 
has  a 
some 
fine 
Easto 
price 

Bo] 


FROM    PHILADELPHIA    TO    NEW-YORK. 


369 


at  was 

came 

ons   of 

ink,  is 
;t  of  a 
c   four 
r   from 
ng   cut 
nlo  the 
arts  of 
ised  by 
netimes 
esorted 
Mate- 
LC.    are 


ROUTE  FROM  PIHLADELPIIU  TO  P«:\V- 

YOKK, 

Bi/  Stcaviboats  and  Railroad. 

Leaving  Market  or  Arch-street  wharf,  the  ship 
house,  in  the  navy  yard,  is  seen  over  the  liiile 
ishind  in  the  river.  Near  the  upper  part  of  the 
city  are  the  ship  yards  ;  and  be  yond,  three  ghiss 
houses  near  the  water,  with  white  wails  and  black 
roofs.  A  steeple  and  a  shot  tower  are  the  prin- 
cipal objects  rising  above  the  great  mass  of  houses 
in  ths  city. 

The  banks  of  the  Delaware  are  low,  and  present 
a  uniformity  quite  unfriendly  to  the  picturesque. 
The  towns  are,  however,  interesting  in  the  history 
of  the  Revolution,  as  will  be  seen  a  little  beyornl. 

The  Camden  and  Anihoy  Railroad  (or  Delaware 
and  Rariton  Railroad,)  is  to  extend  to  Camden,  op- 
posite Philadelphia-  The  traveller  now  first  meets 
it  at  Bordentown,  which  see  for  a  description  of  it. 

Burlington,  in  New-Jersey,  18  miles  from 
Philadelphia,  presents  a  handsome  appearance ; 
with  a  row  of  fine  residences  facing  the  river,  in 
front  of  which  is  a  street  with  a  beautiful  sloping 
bank. 

Bristol,  a  little  above,  and  on  the  opposite  side, 
has  also  a  number  of  gentlemen's  seats  ;  and  hand- 
some flower  gardens  on  the  bank,  ornaniented  with 
fine  willows,  &c.  A  stage  coach  goes  hence  to 
Easton  every  day,  on  the  arrival  oi  the  steamboat, 
price  of  a  passage,  $3. 

Bordentown,  28  miles  from  Philaaelphia,  and 

31 


I! 


m 


370        FROM    PIIILADELPIIIA    TO    NEW-YORK. 


j  f 


I 


7  below  Trniton,  Htnnds  on  a  strrp  sand  bank, 
tbrou^li  which  n  rojitJ  is  cut  to  tht;  \val(;r.  Jus*t 
north  of  the  vilhi^c  is  [\\v  house  (jfJoscpli  liuona- 
parte,  the  Count  (ie  SurviMicrs,  once  kin<r  of  Spain. 
It  is  a  lon<(  white  buihlin^,  with  two  h)W  scpiare 
towers  at  the  ends,  and  a  shot  tower  near  it  by  the 
river. 

The  Camden  and  Amhoy  railroad  is  to  extend 
61  miles.  It  now  crosses  New-Jersey  from  South 
Amboy,  nciir  the  mouth  of  the  Raritiin,  to  tfie 
Delaware  at  Bordcntown,  where  it  meets  the  Phi- 
ladelpfiia  steambouls.  It  fias  been  nearly  complet- 
ed thence  to  Canulen  o[)p4jsite  to  Phila(iel])hia. 
The  country  through  whicli  this  portion  of  it  pass- 
es presents  but  lilile  interest.  The  34^  miles  along 
the  east  side  of  the  Delaware  aftbrds  some  plea- 
sant views,  thou<»h  it  is  so  nearly  on  a  level,  as  to 
have  but  few  ascents  more  than  20  fret  in  a  mile. 
On  the  other  portion  there  was  considerable  ex- 
pense at  Croswick's  creek,  South  River  and  the  hill 
near  the  E.  extremity.  The  deei)  cut  is  2  miles 
lonjr,  and  60  feet  deep  in  the  deepest  place.  The 
via(Jucts  and  culverts  are  of  stone,  though  stone  is 
scarce.  The  charter  forbids  the  construction  of 
any  otlier  railroad  on  tlie  route  between  Philadel- 
phia and  New-York.  The  estimated  expense  of 
the  line  was  nearly  IJ  millions,  including  steam- 
boats, cars,  wharves,  &c.  The  Legislature  have 
authorized  an  extension  of  this  road  to  Hudson 
river,  and  to  New-Brunswick. 

Trknton,  33  miles  from  Philadelphia,  is  a  town 
of  considerable  size,  with  a  great  number  of  stores, 
and  the  aspect  of  business.  The  bridge  across 
.the  Delavvai3  has  five  arches.     The  canal  which  is 


I  !!>! 


IK. 

11(1  bank, 
,er.  JuHt 
)h  Tuona- 
{)(  Spain. 
,w  square 
r  it  by  ibc 

to  extend 

roni  8(»iith 
an,    to  tbe 
is  the  Phi- 
y  com  pic  t- 
iladcipbia. 
I  of  it  pass- 
niles  along 
ome    pica- 
level,  as  to 
in  a  mile. 
Icrabie  ex- 
and  the  hill 
is  2   miles 
ace.     The 
oh  stone  is 
truction  of 
n  Philadel- 
expense  of 
ing   steam- 
Ittture  have 
to  Hudson 

a,  is  a  town 
r  of  stores, 
dge  across 
iial  which  is 


TRENTON. 


371 


lierc  made  round  the  rapids,  siippH(*H  water  power  ; 
and  here  bi'gins  the  DilawarL'  and  Uaritan  Canal 
whicfi  crosses  the  state. 

Lamberton  is  a  villa ^e  wjirre  the  roacn  oflices 
are,  and  apparently  I'ornis  a  part  of  'I'rentnn. 

The  State  Prison  is  siliiated  a  little  south  of  the 
town. 

New-Jersey  lias  a  school  fund  of  about  S-*^C, 
000,  yielding  about  $I(),<H)().  ,^^0,000  is  annual- 
ly a[)propriuted  to  the  schools:  the  balance  being 
paid  out  of  the  treasury.  Public  education  is  very 
deficient. 

In  Dec,  177G,  the  English  had  4000  men  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Delaware,  in  Trenton,  Borderjtown, 
Blackhorse,  and  Burlington,  with  strong  detach- 
ments at  Princeton  and  New-Bruns.viclv,  with  their 
magazines. 

On  Christmas  night,  three  divisions  of  the  A- 
merican  troops  attempted  to  cress  the  Delaware  : 
one  at  Bristol  for  Burlin<zton  ;  one  a  mile  below 
Trenton  ;  and  one  nine  miles  above,  under  Wash- 
ington and  Greene.  This  was  the  largest,  but  prin- 
cipally militia  ;  it  approached  Trenton  by  two 
roads,  attacking  it  at  8,  A.  M.  very  unexpectedly, 
and  putting  the  English  and  German  troops  (about 
1500)  to  the  rout.  Five  hundred  escaped  ;  the 
rest  surrendered,  being  the  regiments  of  Ralle,  An- 
spach,  and  Knyphausen.  Ralle  was  killed  in  re- 
sisting. The  other  divisions  could  not  cross  on 
account  of  the  ice,  and  Washington  returned  with 
his  captives  and  six  pieces  of  artillery.  This  suc- 
cessful stroke  greatly  encouraged  the  country,  as 
it  was  the  first  victory  over  those  German  mercen- 
aries. 


ii 


U     }' 


372        FROM    PHILADELPHIA    TO    NEW-YORK. 

Washington  soon  after  re-crossed  the  river,  and 
posted  his  army  at  Trenton.  On  the  2d  of  Jan., 
1777,  Lord  Cornwallis  reached  'J'renton  ;  and 
Washington  fortified  himself  on  the  Assiimpsick. 
But  he  was  too  weak  to  iuizard  an  engagement ; 
and  the  Delaware  was  filled  with  ice. 

Being  liardly  pressed,  Washington  had  formed 
the  plan  of  a  retreat,  expecting  to  be  unable  to  re- 
move any  thing  but  the  soldiers  and  what  they 
could  carry,  as  the  soil  was  so  unfavorable,  and  the 
weather  so  mild  and  wet,  that  wagons  could  not 
pass.  Cornwallis  had  sent  to  Princeton  for  a  re- 
giment to  join  him,  that  he  might  attack  the  Amer- 
icans immediately.  In  the  night,  however.  Gen. 
Greene  reported  that  the  weather  had  suddenly 
become  cold  ;  and  at  midnight,  Washington  was 
able  to  begin  his  march,  with  all  his  baggage  and 
artillery.  The  British  had  no  intimation  of  their 
departure  until  they  heard  the  guns  firing  atPrince- 
ton. 

PRINCETON,  10  miles.  This  village  is  situ- 
ated on  an  -^levated  ridge  of  land,  which,  on  seve- 
ral sides,  rises  with  a  long  and  easy  slope,  and 
commands  a  prospect  of  considerable  extent.  In 
approachiuij  it  from  the  west,  we  discover  the  Del- 
aware and  Ru'Mtan  Canal,  south  of  the  road;  and 
afterwards  the  Theological  Academy,  which  is  of 
stone  and  4  stories  high,  is  seen  on  the  right ;  and 
Nassau  Hall  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  opposite 
the  stage  house.  The  college  yard  is  large  and 
shaded  with  trees  ;  and  the  burying  ground  con- 
tains the  ashes  of  the  presidents  of  the  institution  ; 
Aaron  lUirr,  Jonathan  Edwards,  Samuei  Davis, 
Samuel  Finley,  John  Witherspoon,  and  Samuel  S. 
Smith. 


IK. 

•iver,  and 
I  of  Jan., 
ton  ;  and 
iiimpsick. 
agement ; 

ul  formed 
able  to  re- 
^'hat    they 
le,  and  the 
could  not 
[  for  a  re- 
the  Amer- 
2ver,  Gen. 
suddenly 
ngton  was 
ggage  and 
on  of  their 
r  atPrince- 

ge   i?  situ- 
,  on  seve- 
lope,   and 
xtent.     In 
er  the  Del- 
road  ;  and 
Inch    is  of 
right ;  and 
opposite 
large    and 
round  con- 
nslitution; 
uei    Davis, 
Samuel  S. 


ELIZABETHTOWN. 


373 


Washington  met  at  Stoney  Brook,  near  the  pre" 
sent  roail,  a  little  way  from  Princeton,  and  defeat- 
ed the  British  regiment.  He  thin  marched  north 
to  the  high  grounds.  During  the  battle  of  Prince- 
ton, it  is  related  that  a  cannon  shot  entered  the 
chapel,  and  tore  away  the  head  from  a  portrait  of 
George  III. 

New-Brunswick,  Here  steamboats  start  for 
New-York. 

The  view  is  pretty  from  the  hill  ;  whence  the 
public  buildings  appear  to  good  advantage,  partic- 
ularly the  Rutger's  Theological  Seminary,  which 
is  under  the  synod  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church. 
The  banks  below  are  picturesque,  but  afterwards 
are  low  and  little  varied. 

In  the  spring  of  1777,  Washington  advanced 
from  near  JVlorristown  to  Middlebrook,  where  he 
intrenched  himself  on  the  heights,  in  full  view  of 
New-Brunswick.  The  British  tried  various  strat- 
agems to  decoy  him  from  this  commanding  posi- 
tion, and  once  succeeded  ;  but  discovering  their 
intentions  to  surround  him,  he  quickly  regained  it, 
and  they  were  soon  after  obliged  to  give  up  all 
hopes  of  penetrating  in  this  direction,  and  devot- 
ed their  attention  to  co-operating  with  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne,  who  was  coniing  down  towards  Albany. 

Perth  Amhoy,   13  miles. 

Elizabcthtoivn  Point,  15  miles  from  New-York. 
The  village  is  partly  seen  about  2  miles  inland. 

Staten  Island  is  large  and  elevated,  with  but  few 
inhabitants,  and  a  small  cluster  of  houses.  The 
large  building  on  the  bank  of  the  kill,  is  the  Sail- 
lor's  Snug  Harbor,  or  house  endowed  by  Capt. 
Randall. 

31* 


374 


CITY    OF    NEW-YORK. 


If   h]\ 


On  entering  New-York  Bay,  Fort  Lafayette  is 
seen  in  the  Narrows,  between  Staten  and  Long 
Island,  which  i?  the  passage  to  the  sea.  The  city 
presents  a  close  mass  of  houses,  with  Castle  Wil- 
liams on  Governor's  Island,  seen  near  it  on  the 
right ;  and  Ellis's  and  Bedlow's  Islands  on  the  left, 
with  their  fortifications.  On  approaching,  the  pro- 
minent objects  are  the  tall  pyramidal  steeple  of 
Trinity  Church,  the  more  ornamented  one  of  St. 
Paul's,  and  the  distant  top  of  the  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral, &c.  &c.  The  clusters  of  trees  observed  on 
the  shore  in  front  of  the  city,  are  on  the  Battery, 
a  place  once  fortified  ;  but  now  the  principal  pub- 
lic square  ;  and  Castle  Clinton,  just  west  of  it,  is  a 
place  of  amusement.  (See  the  vignette  on  the  title- 
page.) 


m 

fif 


lyette  is 
d    Long 
The  city 
tie  Wil- 
t  on  the 
1  the  left, 
,  thepro- 
teeple  of 
16  of   St. 
ic  Cathe- 
3rved  on 
Battery, 
ipal  pub- 
of  it,  is  a 
)  the  title- 


THE 

WESTERN  TRAVELLER. 

AN  APPENDIX  TO  THE  ''  NORTHERN  TRAVELLER,"  FOR  THE 
USE  OP  EMIGRA^TS  AND  TRAVELLERS. 

Containing  the  Principal  Routes  to  and  through  the  Western 
States,  descriptions  of  some  oi  the  Chief  Towns,  remarks 
on  climate,  soil,  productions,  diseases,  modes  of  travelling, 
<&.c.  &c. 


Whoever  visits  the  new  Western  States  at  the 
present  tine,  will  enjoy  a  pleasure  which  is  hardly 
to  be  experienced  in  witnessing  the  state  of  a  peo- 
ple in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  The  vast  re- 
gions watered  by  the  streams  of  the  Mississippi, 
are  receiving  emigrants  from  various  countries, 
and  rapidly  changing  the  aspect  of  nature  for  that 
of  civilization.  There  are  seen  the  enterprising 
spirit  of  the  first  clearers  and  cultivators  of  the 
soil ;  there  are  renewed  the  labors  of  our  ancestors 
on  the  Atlantic  coast,  but  on  a  scale  immensely 
greater,  favored  by  peace  and  security,  protected 
by  laws,  and  encouraged  by  free  institutions.  The 
grand   features  of  nature   may  now  be   observed 

Books  recomraended—Flint's  Geography  and  Hi-tory  of  the  Western 
States.  Darby's  View  of  the  United  States.  Peck's  Guide  in  Illinois  and 
Missouri.    The  Emigrant's  Guide  through  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi. 


I 

I 
! 


^ 


k' 


376 


REMARKS. 


id  i  .:' 


with  peculiar  advantage,  amidst  scenes  of  general 
activity  and  prosperity  ;  an(?  there  is  much  to  at- 
tract attention  among  the  works  of  man,  ancient 
and  recent,  as  well  as  in  the  mountains  and  lakes, 
rivers  and  prairies  of  that  vast  portion  of  our  coun- 
try, which  is  equal  in  extent  to  the  valley  of  the 
Plata  in  South  America,  or  the  Empire  of  Russia. 

The  following  j)ages  are  designed  for  the  infor- 
mation of  emigrants,  as  well  as  travellers  ;  and  the 
author  has  endeavored  to  comprehend  in  the  hrief- 
est  manner,  such  important  facts  and  suggestions 
as  might  render  this  part  of  the  work  an  useful 
manual  for  those  numerous  persons,  foreigners  as 
well  as  Americans,  who  annually  seek  a  perma- 
nent residence  in  our  Western  States. 

**  In  the  *'far  west"  most  things  wear  a  charac- 
ter of  higher  grandeur  and  intensity,  than  on  the 
<^ast  side  of  the  mountains.  Her  domain  is  wide 
and  wilder ;  and  if  her  attire  is  less  trim  and  sym- 
metrical, it  is  more  opulent  in  color,  and  magnili- 
cent  in  drapery,  and  the  beauty  of  her  gardens, 
parks,  and  pleasure  grounds,  not  only  satisfy  the 
senses,  but  feast  them  to  satiety. 

Being  more  elevated,  and  free  from  the  haze  of 
the  Ocean,  the  atmosphere  is  more  pellucid  than 
along  the  Atlantic  border.  The  meteorology  of 
the  west  is  somewhat  peculiar.  Changes  of  the 
weather  are  not  strongly  indicated  by  any  well 
known  phenomena  of  the  heavens.  They  cannot 
therefore  be  readily  foretold.  They  occur  unex- 
pectedly, often  without  an  apparent  cause,  though 
such  cause  certainly  exists.  The  temperature  i? 
frequently  mild  until  midnight  or  later,  but  be- 
comes severely  cold  before  morning,   without  the 


REMARKS. 


377 


general 
ch  to  at- 
ancient 
1(1  lakes, 
ur  coun- 
y  of  the 
'  Russia, 
he  infor- 
;  and  the 
the  hrief- 
nrgestions 
in    useful 
litrners  as 
a  perma- 

a  charac- 

an  on  the 

n  is  wide 

and  sym- 

nmgnili- 

gardens, 

alisfy  the 


\e  haze  of 
Licid  than 
rulogy  of 
es  of  the 
r  any  well 
ey  cannot 
cur  unex- 
se,  though 
erature  i^ 
hut  be- 
ithout  the 


occurrence  of  a  cloud,  or  any  unusual  commotion 
in  the  atmosphere.  Notwithstanding  this,  the  wea- 
ther is  less  changeable,  and  the  climate  more  uni- 
form (we  mean  as  to  heat  and  cold)  than  in  the 
Atlantic  States. 

The  opinion  has  been  entertained,  that,  in  cor- 
responding latitudes,  the  temperature  is  higher  in 
Mississippi  Valley,  than  between  the  mountains 
and  the  Atlantic.  This  we  apprehend  is  an  error, 
to  the  establishment  of  which,  the  writings  of  Vol- 
ney  and  other  theorizing  travellers  have  contrib- 
uted. 

During  the  severe  weather  of  the  winter  of  1831, 
the  Mercury  sunk  in  I  xington,  Kentucky,  to  14°, 
in  Nashville,  Tennes:  -  .,  to  17°,  and  in  Shelby  ville, 
to  19<^  be^jw  zero.  We  have  heard  of  nothing  to 
equal  this  in  the  same  latitudes  in  the  Atlantic 
region. 

The  equinoctial  gales  and  rains  do  not  occur  so 
regularly  in  the  Mississippi  valley  as  they  do  east 
of  the  mountains.  But  the  country  is  more  fre- 
quently visited  by  tornadoes,  which  sweep  along 
in  narrow  veins  with  a  force  that  prostrates  forests, 
demolishes  houses,  and  scatters  like  ciTaff  other 
fabrics  of  art,  in  common  with  the  products  of  the 
field.  The  traveller  often  meets  with  the  paths  of 
these  wild  and  terrible  gushes  of  wind,  where 
scarcely  a  tree  has  withstood  their  fury. 

The  trees  of  the  west  have  no  equals  in  size, 
and  the  vegetation  generally  of  the  western  states, 
is  vigorous  and  luxuriant,  far  beyond  that  of  any 
other  portion  of  our  country,  and  in  depth  and 
magnificence  the  forests  are  unrivalled.  Some  of 
the  trees,  especially  the  sycamores,  could  they  he 


i 


378 


REMARKS. 


i 


transported  entire  from  the  banks  of  the  Ohio, 
would  be  visited  as  woudcrs  in  the  iantic  Stales. 
One  of  them  is  seventy-two  feet  in  circumference  ; 
this  is  probably  the  giant  of  the  valley.  Whether 
it  be  viewed,  while  under  the  blossom  of  Spring, 
the  leafy  luxuriance  of  summer,  or  the  variety  and 
splendid  garniture  of  autunin,  the  western  land- 
scape is  unmatched  in  beauty. 

The  Ohio  hills  range  many  hundreds  of  miles, 
along  the  beautiful  river,  which  gives  them  their 
name,  often  constituting  its  immediate  banks,  but 
generally  running  at  a  short  distance  from  its 
margin.  Their  construction  is  singular,  consisting 
in  a  chain  of  eminences  several  hundred  feet  high, 
with  regular  depressions  between  ihem,  the  whole 
presenting  a  lofty  and  waving  ridge,  of  composed 
amenity  and  pleasing  unifornnty.  Their  sides  are 
densely  wooded,  from  their  base  :  and  a  line  of 
tall  and  graceful  trees,  with  interweaving  branch- 
es, springing  from  their  summit,  forms  for  them  a 
suitable  and  majestic  crest.  The  blue  of  the  dis- 
tant sky,  or  the  sunny  clouds  of  morning  and 
evening,  seen  through  that  magnificent  lattice- 
work of  trunks  and  their  ramiiications,  by  the 
voyage  on  the  river,  add  greatly  to  the  rich  and 
picturesque  beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  climate 
of  the  Mississippi  Valley  is  salubrious  except  along 
the  low  tracts  of  alluvion,  which  border  the  rivers 
and  smaller  streams  ;  and  their  skilful  agricultural 
improvement  will  render  it  so.  The  hill  and  plain 
country,  generally,  is  as  healthy  as  any  other  por- 
tion of  the  United  States,  Of  the  truth  of  this, 
the  number,  sprightliness,  and  vigor  of  the  child- 
ren  born  and  nurtured  there,  give  sufficient  evi- 


REMARKS. 


379 


I  Ohio, 
States, 
'rence  ; 
Whether 

Springi 
ety  and 
n  land- 

f  miles, 
m   their 
iks,  but 
rom    its 
)nsisting 
iei  high, 
ic  whole 
J  rn  posed 
sides  are 
a  line  of 
■  branch- 
r  them  a 
the  dis- 
ling    and 
lattice- 
,   by  the 
rich  and 
e  climate 
>pt  along 
he  rivers 
i cultural 
and  plain 
ther  por- 
of  this, 
the  child- 
cient  evi- 


( 


dence.  Western  families  are  proverbially  large. 
What  may  be  the  cllect  of  the  climate  of  the  entire 
valley,  on  the  human  race,  when  the  constitutions 
of  future  generations  shall  have  fairly  conformed 
to  it,  we  pretend  not  positively  to  predict.  We  do 
not  doubt,  however,  that  it  will  be  favorable.  Were 
it  admissible  in  us  to  discuss  the  subject,  reasons 
might  be  given,  to  authorise  the  belief,  that  the 
western  population  will  be  a  noble  one.  It  will 
be  long  before  luxury  can  corrupt  and  enfeeble  it. 
Industry  and  frugality  will  render  the  inhabitants 
active  and  hardy ;  and  a  steady  disposition  to 
observe  and  enquire,  will  supply  them  with  know- 
ledge. Nor  is  this  all.  Man  is  improved  in  his 
person  and  character  like  his  domestic  animals,  by 
a  sufficient  supply  of  wholesome  food,  a  free  and 
pure  atmospliere,  liberal  exercise,  and  skillful 
training.  A  country  of  health  and  plenty  is  always 
stocked  with  a  vigorous  race  of  men,  i»rjd  of  such 
domestic  animals,  as  are  carefully  reared  in  it. 
The  reverse  is  cquully  true,  in  a  sickly  country, 
or  a  sterile  one,  where  food  is  scarce,  noJiing  can 
thrive.  Man,  in  common  with  other  animals,  is 
reduced  in  his  stature,  strength,  and  efficiency. 
To  this,  there  is  no  exception  ;  nor  can  there  be, 
under  the  present  economy  of  nature.  In  a  coun- 
try of  such  health  and  abundance,  as  the  Missis- 
sippi Valley,  therefore,  man  can  scarcely  fail, 
under  a  system  of  suitable  training,  to  attain  the 
full  perfection  of  his  nature."  am.  q.  rev. 

The  Emigrant  and  the  traveller  will  proceed 
either  by  the  northern  lakes,  by  some  of  the  fif- 
teen roads  leading  from  tfie  Atlantic  States,  or  by 
ship  to  N.  Orleans,  and  thence  in  steamboats. 


i 


V: 

te  Mr 


W 


380 


ROUTES    TO    THE    WEST. 


I- 


1^ 


Most  of  the  roads  are  turnpikes.  They  are  as 
follows : 

1st.  From  N.  York  along  Lake  Erie. 

2d.  From  Buffalo  to  Meadville. 

3d.  From  Harrisburgh  Penn,  through  Belle- 
fonte  to  Erie. 

4th.  From  Harrisburgh  through  Lewistown, 
Huntingdon  to  Pittsburgh. 

5th.  From  Philadelphia  through  Harrisburgh, 
Carlisle,  Chambersburg  and  Bedford,  to  Pittsburg. 

6th.  From  Baltimore  through  Cumberland,  to 
Wheeling. 

7th.  From  Washington,  (D.  C.)  through  the 
valley  of  Virginia  to  East  Tennessee. 

8th.  From  Richmond  through  Staunton, (cross- 
ing the  7th,)  to  Charleston,  Virginia,  to  Guandot 
on  Ohio  river. 

9th.  From  Wilkesborough,  N.  C.  to  Green- 
ville. 

10th.  From  Rutherford  through  Asheville  to 
Greenville. 

11th.  From  Pendleton,  S.  C.  across  the  S.  W. 
corner  of  N.  Carolina  to  Tennessee,  (the  Unika 
turnpike.) 

12th.  Several  roads  from  Georgia  into  East 
Tennessee  and  Alabama. 

There  are  also  other  roads,  but  these  are  the 
principal. 

Travellers  will  commonly  go  westward  from 
Baltimore  or  Philadelphia,  and  return  by  the  lakes 
to  Buffalo,  or  vice  versa.  No  precise  route  will 
be  pursued  in  the  following  pages,  but  such  pla- 
ces will  be  described,  and  such  subjects  will  be 
noticed  as  may  prove   most  interesting  to  both 


^  are  as 


h  Belle- 

^istown, 

risburgh, 
•ittsburg. 
•land,    to 

3 ugh  the 

in,(cross- 
Guandot 

3   Green- 

leville  to 

he  S.  W. 
le  Unika 

nto  East 

are    the 

ard  from 
the  lakes 

■oute  will 
such  pla- 

s   will  be 

g  to  both 


ROUTES    TO    THE    WEST. 


381 


travellers  and  emigrants,  after  a  (ew  suggestions 
to  the  latter,  relating  to  arrangements  fur  their 
journey  to  the  Western  States. 

Farmers  going  to  settle  in  the  West,  had  better 
travel  with  their  horses  and  wagons  if  they  have 
them,  and  take  their  ch)thing,  tools,  kitchen  uten- 
sils, and  in  general  all  lighter  and  mora  valuable 
moveables.  The  heavier  may  in  some  cases  be 
advantageously  sent  by  water,  but  can  generally 
be  purchased  in  the  West  at  a  saving.  The  Emi- 
grants Guide,  estimates  the  expense  of  transport- 
ing the  baggage  of  a  settler,  from  New-England 
or  New-York,  by  the  Erie  Canal  and  the  Lakes, 
to  any  spot  not  above  100  miles  from  the  lakes  or 
Cincinnati,  at  from  $2,50  to  $3  per  cwt.  On  the 
roads,  the  price  per  cwt.  to  the  navigable  waters 
of  the  Mississippi,  gradually  increases  from  about 
these  sums  as  we  go  south.  A  voyage  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi, by  the  way  of  New-Orleans,  is  liabie  to 
uncertainty  in  respect  to  time  and  expense;  and 
at  certain  seasons  to  disease. 

Travelling  in  stage  coaches  in  the  West  is  gen- 
erally from  4J  to  (>  cents  a  mile. 

From  N.  Orleans  to  St,  Louis,  by  steamboat, 
$25. 

St.  Louis  to  Beardstown,  or  Quincy,  Illinois, 
by  steamboat,  $(». 

St.  Louis  to  Galena,  Illinois,  by  steamboat  $12. 

[Deck  passevgers  irsi\e\  in  the  Western  steam- 
boats at  hd  or  J  the  price  of  cabin  passengers. 
They  have  a  shelter  from  the  weather,  but  must 
provide  their  own  food.] 

The  expenses  of  travelling  from  Boston  to 
Pittsburgh,  in  the  cheapest  manner,  were  a  little 

32 


';i   'k 


382 


ROUTES    TO    THE    WEST. 


I ;: 


less  than  .^50  for  an  emigrant  and  !iis  wife,  with* 
out  including  uny  frei«rht ;  and  from  Pittsburgh  to 
Jacksonville,  Illinois,  a  little  less  than  $00.  The 
whole  tlislance  is  1, 319  miles,  and  is  often  taken 
by  the  quantity  for  a  round  sum,  which  is  gen- 
erally the  cheapest  manner  of  arranging  for  the 
transportation. 

Freight  from  New  Orleans  to  St.  Louis,  about 
62^  cts.  per  cwt.  From  New  Orleans  to  Louis- 
ville and  Nashville,  about  the  same.  From  New 
Orleans  to  Cincinnati,  the  rates  increases  from  50 
to  70  cts.,  when  the  Louisville  Canal  is  impassable. 

Time  for  travelling'  West,  The  roads  are 
broken  up  in  the  spring,  and  often  overflown,  and 
do  not  become  good  until  the  weather  is  warm  and 
settled.  The  spring  is  however  the  best  season 
to  travel  by  water;  the  rivers  rising  above  the 
common  obstacles  dangerous  to  boats.  Sometimes 
the  rivers  subside  in  May.     The  Autumn  is  best 

[Stage  routes  and  expenses.  Philadelphia  to 
Pittsburgh,  300  miles,  $l6,.S0.  Pittsburgh  to 
Wheeling,  59  m.  $4,50.  Philadelphia  to  Balti- 
more, 128  m.  $3-  Baltimore  to  Wheeling,  271, 
m.  $15,50.  Wheeling  to  Columbus,  140  m.  $8. 
Columbus  to  Cleaveland,  177  m.  $10,50.  Colum- 
bus to  Chillicothe,  45  m.  $2.  Chillicothe  to  Cin- 
cinnati, 94  m.  $5,50,  (direct,  1 10  m.  $0,50.)  Cin- 
cinnati to  Lidianapolis,  ll2  m.  $5,75.  Indianap- 
olis to  Madison,  86  m.  $4.  Cincinnati  to  Lexing- 
ton, 76  m.  $4,50.  Lexington  to  Louisville,  75  m. 
$4,50.  Louisville  to  St.  Louis,  through  Vincennes, 
2(37  m.  $15,o0.  Louisville  to  Nashville,  180  m. 
$12.] 


ROUTE    TO    ST.    LOUIS. 


u63 


nfe,  with- 
itiburgh  to 
00.  The 
(ten  taken 
cli  is  gen- 
iir  for  the 

uis,  about 
to  Louis- 
^rom  New 
IS  from  60 
npassable. 
roads  are 
flown,  and 
warm  and 
2st  season 
above  the 
Sometimes 
an  is  best 

lelphia  to 
sburgh  to 
a  to  Balti- 
>ling,  271, 
to  m.  $S. 
.  Colum- 
he  to  Cin- 
50.)  Cin- 
Indianap- 
to  Lexing- 
ille,  75  m. 
V^inceniies, 
le,   180  m. 


for  travelling  by  land  :  there  being  little  rain,  the 
roads  are  grnerally  very  good,  and,  the  harvest 
being  home,  cvrry  thing  is  cheap. 

Health.  Travelling  in  steamboats  is  best  adapt- 
ed to  the  Spring,  because  shelter  is  allorded. 
Land  travelling  is  better  in  Autumn,  because  the 
weather  is  neither  ver}  cold  nor  very  hot.  The 
heats  of  summer,  as  well  as  the  cold  of  winter,  en- 
danger the  health,  especially  of  those  not  accus- 
tomed to  them,  as  many  of  the  inns  are  small  log 
houses. 

Rotite  and  expenses  from  New-York  to  St,  Louis, 
New-York  to    Albany,    including  food,  146  miles, 

from  $\  to  $2. 
Albany    to  Bufl'alo,  by  Erie   Canal,    in   a 
boat,    ^15  (JO.       (In   a   line  boat  about 
Buffalo  to  Erie,  by  steam, 
Burtalo  to  Ashtabula,  by  do. 
BulTalo  to  Cieaveland,  Ohio,  by  do. 
Erie  to  B'.^aver,  on  the  Ohio,  by  stage,  inclu- 
ding food,  5  50 
Beaver  to  Cincinnati,  steamboat,  10 
Cincinnati  to  Louisville,  do.                                3 
Louisville  to  Shawneetown,  do.                        6 

Do.         to  St.  Louis,  do.  12 

Steamboat  Route  to  St,  Louis,  via  Lake  Erie,  &c. 
above  1200  miles. 

From  Buffak  to  Dunkirk,  45  miles,  Portland  60, 
Erie  90,  Salem  120,  Ashtabula  135,  Grand  River 
165,  Cieaveland  195,  Huron  245,  Sandusky  260, 
Detroit  330,  Mackina  (iOO,  Green  Bay  750,  Chica- 
go 900.  Stage  coaches  run  from  most  of  these 
ports  into  the  country.  Stage  coaches  go  from 
Chicago  to  St.  Louis,  320  miles. 


packet 
9.) 
3 

4  50 
6  00 


m 


884 


ROUTE    TO    ST.    LOUIS. 


I!  1 


I 


A  cabin  passage  from  Buflhlo  to  Detroit,  costs 
;  a  (lock  passage,  $1.  A  i'iimily  •  5  or  ()  per- 
sons, Willi  a  vvaj^on  load  of  ruriiilure,  may  liave  a 
comfortable  deck  passage  in  tjie  sumnuT  for  |^'^0. 
The  prices  to  other  places  are  generally  in  pro- 
portion. 

The  harbors  in  Lake  Erie  have  been  furnished 
with  two  parallel  piers  each,  by  the  general  gov- 
ernment, through  which  the  rivers  flow,  thus  pre- 
venting the  accumulation  of  sand  in  bars. 

Detroit  has  about  3(U>0  inhabitants,  and  is  fast 
increasing.  Numerous  emii^rants  arrive  annually. 
About  4  of  the  inhabitants  are  of  French  origin. 
It  was  settled  in  1670.  The  churches  are  a  Pres- 
byterian, Episcopal,  Methodist,  Baptist  and  Ro- 
man. 

Michigan  contains  a  great  proportion  of  excel- 
lent land,  is  passable  in  many  parts  in  wagons,  in 
its  natural  state,  almost  surrounded  by  water,  of- 
fers great  facilities  for  intercourse,  and  is  settled 
chiefly  from  N.  York  and  N.  England,  with  45,000 
inhabitants. 

The  Western  States  of  the  American  Union, 
or  "the  West,"  as  that  part  of  it  is  familiarly  call- 
ed, lie  on  that  side  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains, 
and  on  the  Mississippi  river  or  its  branches.  This 
river,  receives  the  water  flowing  from  all  the  coun- 
try between  the  summits  of  the  Alleghanies  and 
Rocky  Mountains,  which  are  about  lOUO  miles 
apart,  at  the  Gulf  of  Mexico:  and  more  distant 
near  the  head  of  this  great  river,  so  that  it  drains 
an  extent  of  about  1,300,000  square  miles.  Vast 
prairies,  destitute  in  a  great  measure  of  trees,  and 
bearing  but  few  species  of  plants,  occupy  a  large 


ROUTE    TO    AT.    LOriS. 


385 


oil,  costs 
or  ()  pcr- 
ly  Imve  a 
•for  $2{). 
\y  ill  i)ro- 

fiirnishcd 
eral  gov- 
thus  pre- 

• 

u\  is  fast 

annually. 

^h  origin. 

e  a  Prcs- 
and  Ro- 
of excel- 

^gons,  in 
ater,  of- 
s  settled 

th  45,000 

1  Union, 
arly  call- 
ountains, 
U.  This 
llie  coun- 
lies  and 
(JO  miles 
e  distant 
it  drains 
s.  Vast 
•ees,  and 
y  a  large 


i 


portion  of  these  regions;  and  a  small  part  oidy  is 
yet  inha])il('(l,  except  by  wihl  animals,  or  wander- 
ing Indian  tribes,  who  live  |)riM(-ipiilly  by  hunting. 
Tlie  Mississij)pi  and  nmtjy  of  its  branches  are 
subject  to  great  (loods  in  tiu;  Spring,  and  ihe  nu- 
merous steamboats,  Hals  and  arks,  by  which  they 
are  navigated,  are  exposed  to  rapids,  currents, 
shoals,  eddies,  and  logs  partly  imbedded  in  the 
bottom,  especihlly  at  low  water.  Logs  or  trees 
fixed  at  one  end,  projecting  upwards  and  slanting 
in  the  direction  of  the  stream,  are  called  sawyers, 
as  they  are  kept  in  motion  by  the  water.  Plant- 
ers are  those  which  point  in  the  opposite  direclion, 
aad  are  peculiarly  dangerous  to  vessels  conung 
down  the  stream.  Sriaijs  are  such  obstructions 
caused  by  bjgs,  stumps,  &c.  as  are  not  included  in 
the  above. 

Passages  down  are  much  shorter  than  up  the 
rivers,  and  less  expensive.  The  navigation  is  often 
interrupted  to  the  upper  ports,  by  low  water. 
The  tide  is  but  little  perceived  in  the  Miss*   sippi. 

Part  of  West  Florida   and  the  regions  w     ered 
by  streams  not  flowing  into   the   Mississippi,    in 
Georgia,  Mississippi  and  Alabama,  are  commonly 
included   as   parts   of  the   Great  Western  Valley 
and  under  that  view  it  euibraces  the  following  di 
visions  :-Michigan  l^rritorv,  38,000  square  miles 
Illinois,   57,900  ;  Indiana,  *3(),500 ;  Ohio,  39,750 
Part  of  Pennsylvania,   15,833;   Part    of  Virginia 
26,649;    Kentucky,    40,500;    Missouri,    6:),500 
Tennessee,  40,200;  Arkansas,  60,700;  Mississip- 
pi, 47,680 ;  Louisiana,  49,300  ;  Alabama,  o2,900; 
West  Florida,  27,840;  with  the   following  Indian 
regions  J— Mandans,   295,203;    Sioux,     162,385 

32* 


i>t 


386 


HISTORY. 


m 


Hurons,  120,975;  Osages,  91,980;  Ozarks,  83, 
350. — Total,  1,363,146  square  miles.  To  this 
may  be  added  26,000  square  miles  of  New-York, 
N.  Carolina,  and  Georgia,  &c. 

History,  In  1512,  Ponce  de  Leon,  discovered 
the  continent,  in  lat.  30  deg.,  and  called  it  Flori- 
da. Grivalva  and  Vasques  landed  in  1518  and 
1524,  but  established  no  permanent  settlement. 
Narvaez,  in  1528,  had  no  better  success.,  Fer- 
dinand Ce  Soto,  afterwards  crossed  from  Florida 
and  the  Mississippi.  Ad.  Coligny,  in  1564,  planted 
a  Huguenot  colony  near  St.  \ugustine,  which  was 
cut  off  by  the  Spaniards,  for  heresy,  which  was 
revenged  by  De  Gourges.  The  northen  parts  of 
the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  were  visited  by 
Frenchmen,  after  the  settlement  of  Quebec,  in 
1G08.  Maguette,  a  Jesuit,  discovered  that  river  in 
1673.  In  1679,  La  Salle,  spent  the  winter  in  the 
Illinois;  and  in  1680,  Hennepin  passed  down  the 
Mississippi  to  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  Cahokia 
and  Kaskaskia,  were  settled  by  La  Salle,  in  l6i>3, 
who  next  year  landed  in  Texas,  and  having  failed 
in  attempting  to  discover  the  mouth  of  the  great 
rivei,  was  murdered  in  attempting  to  reach  the 
Illinois. 

Ibberville  found<^d  Biloxi  in  1699,  having  sailed 
nearly  300  miles  up  the  Mississippi ;  after  which 
missions  and  trading  stations  were  formed.  Bien- 
ville, for  many  years  the  French  governor  of  the 
country,  founded  New-Orleans,  in  1719;  which 
event  was  soon  succeeded  by  the  destruction  of 
the  Natchez  Indians,  and  repeated  dissensions 
with  the  Spaniards  in  Mexico.  The  "  Mississippi 
bubble,"  in   which    above   300,001)   dollars    was 


HISTORY. 


387 


arks,    83, 

To   this 

ew-York, 

iscovered 
it  Flori- 
1518  and 
jttlement. 
ss.  Fer- 
n  Florida 
i-,  planted 
vhich  was 
^hich  was 
1  parts  of 
isited  by 
uebec,  in 
Jt  river  in 
ter  in  the 
down  the 
Cahokia 
,  in  16&3, 
in^  failed 
-he  great 
each   the 

ng  sailed 
er  which 
1.  Bien- 
or  of  the 
) ;  which 
iction  of 
ssensions 
ississippi 
lars    was 


sunk  by  Frenchmen,  dates  in  1717.  Prosperity 
prevailed  in  Louisiana  from  1736  till  1754,  when 
the  war  between  France  and  England  began. 
The  French  built  forts  in  Erie,  Penn.  a  branch  of 
French  Creek  and  Pittsburgh,  and  in  1753  and 
1755,  Washington  and  Braddock  were  defeated 
in  attempting  to  oppose  them.  In  1758  and  '59 
Pittsburgh,  Niagara,  Ticonderoga,  and  Quebec, 
were  taken  by  the  English.  In '62  France  secret- 
ly ceded  all  west  of  the  Mississippi,  to  Spain  ; 
and  in  '63  all  east  of  it  to  England,  Spain  ceding 
to  England,  Florida.  During  the  revolution, 
Gen.  Clark  took  Vincennes,  and  the  Spanish  and 
French  took  Baton  Rogue,  Mobile,  and  Pensacola, 
for  the  Americjins.  England,  in  '83,  ceded  Florida 
to  Spain,  which  she,  after  a  long  dispute  with  the 
U.  States,  on  the  boundary,  secretly  gave  over  to 
France,  who,  in  turn,  sold  it  to  the  U.  S.  for  15 
millions  of  dollars. 

Some  of  the  Western  States  suffered  greatly 
from  the  Indians,  for  fifteen  years  after  peace  was 
declared.  In  1790,  Gen.  Harman  w&s  defeated 
near  Chillicothe,  with  about  1,500  men;  and  in 
'91,  Si.  Clair,  with  1,400,  near  Miami  river.  Be- 
tween 1783  and  '93,  about  1,500  persons  were 
killed,  captured  by  Indians,  in  Kentucky;  and 
nearly  as  many  in  West  Pennsylvania  and  Vir- 
ginia. Gen.  Wayne,  with  3,000  men,  defeated 
them,  in  '94,  at  Miami  of  the  Lake,  which  led  to 
peace.  Various  battles  were  fought  in  the  last 
war,  in  the  west,  which  need  not  be  particularized  ; 
and  there  have  been  some  Indian  disturbances 
more  recently. 

The  large  and  numerous  steamboats  which  ply 


888 


WIND?. 


s 


on  the  Mississippi,  and  many  of  its  tributaries, 
offer  the  most  important  advantages  to  emigration, 
as  well  as  to  the  trnnsportatioM  of  goods.  Boats 
were  formerly  three  months  in  going  from  New- 
Orleans  to  Louisville,  and  now  the  passage  is 
made  in  15  or  20  days,  including  many  stops; 
and  the  prices  of  freight  have  been  greatly  reduc- 
ed. There  are  probably  above  500  steamboats 
now  in  use,  many  of  which  offer  elegant  accom- 
modations to  {ja-^sengers,  at  a  very  low  rate. 
Cabin  passengers  are  often  invited  to  go  on  board 
even  a  day  or  two  before  the  time  of  departure, 
and  are  charged  nothing  additional  for  their  lodg- 
ing and  food.  The  boats  on  the  Aiississippi  make 
five  trips  in  a  year.  The  trip  from  Louisville  to 
Pittsburgh,  is  made  in  8  or  9  days. 

Much  has  been  done  in  the  West,  by  different 
societies,  to  supply  it  with  bibles,  tracts,  sabbath 
schools,  preachers,  and  to  promote  temperance 
and  learning.  There  are  about  30  colleges,  se- 
veral medical  school??,  theological  seminaries, 
acadenjies,  lyceums,  &lc.  and  the  society  in  some 
of  the  towns,  is  very  polished  and  intelligent. 

Winds.  The  Emigrant's  Guide  states,  that  at 
Cincinnati,  the  winds  prevail  in  the  following 
order  :  8.  W.— N.  W.-N.  E.— 8.  E.-W.~E.— 
S. — and  N.  The  S.  W.  wind  is  the  prevalent  one 
for  9  months,  from  March  to  November.  The  N. 
W.  in  Dec.  Jan.  Feb.  Through  the  year  the 
W.  wind  prevails.  The  dry  south  west  wind,  in 
the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  rises  in  the  morning,  in- 
creases through  the  day,  and  subsides  at  night, 
preceding  a  clear  night.  The  moist  S.  W.  which 
is  far  more  rare,  prevails  several  days  and  nights. 


i\  ' 


r 


SOIL. 


389 


butariee, 
igration, 
.  Boats 
nn  New- 
issage  is 
y  stops  ; 
ly  rcduc- 
^aiiiboats 
I  accom- 
jvv  rate, 
on  board 
eparture, 
eir  lodg- 
ppi  make 
isville  to 

different 

sabbath 
[iperance 
eges,  se- 
iiinaries, 

in  some 

ent. 

^  that  at 

oMowing 

^— E.— 

ilent  one 

The  N. 
»'ear  the 
ivind,  in 
ning,  ia- 

t  night, 
h  which 
1  nights, 


alternates  with  the  N.  E.  and  brings  clouds  and 
generally  rain.  The  N.  W.  wind  is  also  of  two 
kinds,  one  of  which  (the  dry  and  more  prevalent) 
begins  to  leeward,  and  brings  fair  weather  after 
rain  ;  except  in  Spring  and  Autumn,  when  it  often 
brings  showers  and  deep  snows.  It  blows  all 
night,  and  precedes  a  S.  W.  wind.  It  raises 
the  barometer  highest,  as  the  S.  W.  sinks  it  low- 
est. The  moist  N.  W.  begins  to  windward,  and 
brings  thunder  showers  in  the  summer. 

The  N.  E.  wind  appears  to  leave  its  moisture 
on  the  Alleghanies,  being  more  dry  beyond  them  ; 
though  it  brings  clouds  or  rain,  except  when  it 
succeeds  the  moist  S.  W.  and  a  storm.  It  feels 
damp  and  cool,  but  not  so  unpleasant  as  near  the 
Atlantic ;  and  often  continues  for  a  week,  and  fre- 
quently with  clear  weather  when  it  comes  after 
the  N.  W.  wind.  The  S.  E.  is  damp,  and  brings 
rain  or  snow.  The  W.  is  strong,  cool,  dry,  and 
agreeable.     In  the   winter  it  brings    severe    cold. 

Soil,  The  valley  of  the  Ohio  river,  is  general- 
ly fertile,  but  in  various  parts  quite  the  contrary. 
Springs  are  abundant  and  good,  where  the  ground 
is  irregular;  but  where  it  is  level,  and  particu- 
larly in  some  of  the  lime-stone  regions  of  Ken- 
tucky, good  water  is  very  scarce.  Timber  abounds 
through  the  Ohio  vallry,  but  is  scarce  amonar  the 
lakes  and  prairies,  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, where  the  soil  is  of  very  various  qualities, 
but  along  the  streams  the   alluvion  is  very  rich. 

The  Missouri  Valley  is  generally  destitute  of 
water  and  timber,  except  the  banks  of  the  stream. 
The  lower  part  of  the  Mississippi,  in  its  wide  ex- 
tent, presents  great  varieties  of  form,  vegetable 


l 


}?! 


I  '.I 


390 


TIMBER. 


and  mineral  productions.  Near  the  mouth  the 
soil  is  rich,  low  and  flat,  and  the  climate,  a  large 
part  of  the  year,  deadly  to  strangers.  The  vallics 
and  plains  near  the  Rocky  Mountains,  are  cold 
and  barren  ;  and  on  the  Arkansas,  the  ground  is 
dry  and  elevated.  The  richest  soil  to  be  found  in 
the  U.  States,  lies  along  the  Scioto  and  Miami  ri- 
vers several  counties  near  Lexington,  Ken.,  some 
parts  of  Michigan  and  Missouri,  and  the  borders 
of  Wabash  and  Sangamon  rivers,  in  Indiana  and 
Illinois. 

Timber*  The  sycamore  is  the  largest  of  the 
trees  in  the  western  states,  and  when  hollowed  by 
age,  sometimes  affords  a  shelter  to  cattle  or  men. 
The  yellow  poplar  is  next  in  size.  Oaks,  elms,  the 
walnut,  beech,  dogwood,  persimmon,  plum,  crab 
apple,  and  ash,  are  found  in  most  parts  of  the 
west;  the  sugar  maple  in  the  north  and  middle, 
the  cotton,  wood  on  the  lower  part  of  Ohio  and 
the  Mississippi,  the  catalpa  on  the  latter,  the  pec- 
can,  (a  nut  tree)  in  Illinois  and  Missouri;  the 
pawpaw  in  the  middle  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  ; 
the  china  tree  ornaments  many  of  the  towns  ;  the 
magnolia  is  conspicuous  in  the  forests  of  Louisi- 
ana and  Florida  ;  the  cypress  and  swamp  gum  pre- 
vail in  the  swamps  south  of  the  Ohio  ;  while  the 
live  oak  is  found  only  on  the  coasts  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  where  the  lig,  orange,  olive,  &c.  find  a 
favorable  climate. 

Animals.  Around  the  head  streams  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  rivers  west  of  it,  roam  the 
elk  and  buH'alo,  the  white  bear,  antelope  and 
mountain  sheep;  and  there  are  found  the  prairie 
dog  and  the  beaver.     All  the  birds  in  the   eastern 


i 


I' 


CLIMATE, 


391 


uth  the 
»  large 
e  vallics 
re  cold 
ound  is 
\)und  in 
[ianii  ri- 
).,  some 
borders 
ana  and 

of  the 

)wed  by 

or  men. 

:1ms,  the 

im,  crab 

5  of  the 

middle, 

io  and 

he  pec- 

iri ;  the 

Valley  ; 

ns  ;  the 

Louisi- 

um  pre- 

hile  the 

Gulf  of 

.  iind  a 

of  the 

oam  the 

pe   and 

prairie 

eastern 


( 


Statos  are  known  in  the  west,  and  besides  these,  in 
difl'erent  parts,  pelicans,  prairie  hens,  parroquets, 
&c.  The  most  remarkable  reptiles,  are  thg  alli- 
gator, which  is  found  south  of  34  degrees,  niocco- 
sin,  rattle,  copper  head,  horned  and  other  snakes, 
scorpions,  lizards,  &c.  The  fish  are  various  and 
numerous. 

The  Missouri  is  really  the  upper  part  of  the 
Mississippi,  although  not  so  in  name.  It  has 
double  the  quantity  of  water  at  the  junction.  From 
the  head  of  the  Missouri  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missis- 
sippi  is  above  4,000  ms.  In  that  distance  it  passes 
through  the  changes  of  climate,  between  regions 
where  snow  is  almost  perennial  and  those  where 
the  sugar  cane  flourishes.  From  Prairie  du 
Chien  north,  snow  lies  about  five  months,  but  po- 
tatoes, wild  rice,  and  common  grain  flourish. 
Missouri,  Illinois,  Indiana,  Ohio,  and  parts  of 
adjacent  states,  not  below  lat.  36  degrees  oO  min. 
abound  in  wheat,  and  other  grain  ;  fruit,  (which 
does  not  grow  in  the  first  district,)  hemp  and  to- 
bacco, and  with  a  little  cotton.  Between  this  lat- 
itude and  31  degrees,  orchards  flourish,  and  cot- 
ton grows  well,  but  is  not  so  important  a  crop  as 
further  S.  Between  31  and  33  deg.  cotton  is  the 
principal  crop,  and  sugar  is  made  in  some  of  the 
lower  parts.  Below  31  deg.  in  Louisiana  and 
Florida,  sugar  is  a  leading  article  of  produce,  and 
oranges  and  other  tropical  fruits  flourish.  There 
is  very  little  winter.  Tlie  forests  put  forth  leaves 
in  February,  and  bloom  by  the  beginning  of 
March. 

Climate.  The  climate  of  the  Mississippi  Val- 
ley, is  generally  more  proportioned  to  the  latitude 


Ku 


t 


V 


!!  n    ■ 


!    I  ' 


III 


'i  k 


392 


CLIMATE. 


lit 

t-Vf 


than  that  of  other  parls  of  the  U.  S.,  its  surface 
being  nearly  level ;  but  on  the  high  hinds  ahjng 
the  upper  streams  it  is  said  to  be  colder.  Indeed 
the  mean  cold  of  winter,  is  thought  to  be  greater 
along  the  centre  of  the  valley,  than  in  correspond- 
ing  latitudes   near  the  ocean,  by  2  or  3  degrees. 

Hraiih.  Fever  and  ague  prevails  very  much 
along  the  centre  and  lower  parts  of  the  valley, 
particularly  among  new  comers;  as  do  all  remit- 
ting fevers.  In  the  interior  oi'  the  states  general- 
ly, where  the  land  is  high,  the  forests  have  been 
cleared,  and  there  is  no  stagnant  water,  the  cli- 
mate is  considered  perfectly  healthy.  In  the 
southern  regions  of  the  west,  the  deadly  Yellow 
Fever  commits  great  ravages  in  summer  and  au- 
tumn, particularly  near  the  water  and  marshes. 
Persons  born  in  a  northern  climate,  fall  its  prey  in 
great  numbers,  and  should  never  stay  after  its  ap- 
pearance, un!e"5S  acclimated.  Persons  going  to 
these  regions  from  the  north,  are  advised  by  the 
"Emigrant's  Guide,"  to  observe  the  following 
precautions :  To  arrive  in  autumn,  to  spend 
three  or  four  hot  seasons  at  the  north,  to  choose 
the  healthiest  situations,  to  be  temperate  and  re- 
gular, and  to  avjid  night  air,  and  exposure  to  the 
sun,  between  10  and  4  o'clock.  These  precau- 
tions might  have  saved  many  lives. 

Remitting  and  intermitting  bilious  fevers,  are 
the  prevailing  diseases,  and  destroy  many  more 
lives  in  the  year  than  the  yellow  fever.  The  na- 
tives however,  are  much  less  liable  to  disease  thaa 
strangers.  Affections  of  the  liver  here  lakes^ 
the  place  of  those  of  the  lungs,  at  the  north  ;  and 
the  best  resort  for  one  liable  to  them,  is  a  north- 
ern summer. 


WATER. 


393 


surface 
Is  along 
Indeed 
greater 
cspond- 
degrecs. 
y   much 
valley, 
II  rernit- 
gen  era  I'- 
ve  been 
the   cli- 
In    the 
Yellow 
and   au- 
marshes. 
s  prey  in 
r  its  ap- 
Foing  to 
by  the 
llowing 
spend 
choose 
and   re- 
e  to  the 
precau- 


th 


In  the  northern  parts  of  tlie  Mississippi  Valley, 


ili 


id    till 


) 


ers,  are 
y  more 
The  na- 
ase  than 
e  takes 
th ;  and 
a  north- 


c  variable  climate  vanes  (ii-cases ;  aiiu  mere 
the  colder  seasons  are  inucli  more  unhealthv  than 
in  the  south.  In  the  summer  also,  cholera  and 
dysentary  prevail  with  severity  in  many  places 
near  streams,  where  the  land  hag  not  been  entire- 
ly cleared  ;  but  bilious  fevers  are  generally  rare 
and  mild. 

[  IVater,  Strangers  should  be  greatly  on  their 
guard  against  the  water,  in  many  places  where 
the  soil  is  of  lime,  as  it  relaxes  the  bowels,  and 
often  unfits  them  for  travelling  with  pleasure, 
although  it  is  said  to  produce  no  permanent  ill  ef- 
fects, and  gives  no  inconvenience,  after  the  system 
has  become  accustomed  to  it.] 

Pleurisy,  croup  and  colds,  are  very  common, 
though  consumption  is  very  rare,  through  the 
western  states,  and  may  be  arrested  in  families  by 
emigration  from  the  east  to  the  Ohio,  Wabash,  or 
Cumberland.  Acute  inflammations  of  thejjints, 
brain,  and  liver,  are  common  in  the  cold  season. 
Other  diseases  are  also  Known,  many  of  which  are 
common  in  the  eastern  states;  but  the  country  is 
on  the  whole  healthy,  as  is  proved  by  the  rapid 
increase  of  population.  September  and  October 
are  the  most  unhealthy  months  for  travelling. 

Antiquities,  The  curious  traveller  will  find  in 
the  museums  in  Cincinnati,  Pittsburgh,  and  other 
towns,  many  interesting  objects  taken  from  the 
ancient  tumuli,  forts,  burying  grounds,  &c.,  which 
are  numerous  in  the  West  but  whose  history  is 
unknown,  as  well  as  Indian  implements,  weapons, 
&c.  Near  Newark,  Ohio,  are  several  forts,  one 
of  40  acres,  with  wails  10  feet   high;  and    in  the 

33 


li 


394 


SCHOOLS. 


same  vicinity  about  1000  wells.  Others  were 
found  near  Cincinnati,  Wlieciing,  Marietta,  St. 
Louis,  Cahokia,  &lc. 

Weather,  Observations  show,  that  in  tlio  upper 
parts  of  the  Mississippi  Valley,  July,  August,  and 
September  are  the  fairest  months,  November,  De- 
cember, January,  and  February,  the  most  cloudy. 
About  36  inches  of  water,  the  quantity  which  falls 
annually  east  of  the  mountains,  is  supposed  to  fall 
in  the  West.  April  and  May  are  the  most  rainy 
months  ;  but  there  is  much  irregularity  in  this  re- 
spect. Snow  rarely  falls  in  Tennessee  deeper  than 
2  or  3  inches  ;  and  north  of  this  to  the  waters 
flowing  north,  it  regularly  deepens.  At  Cincin- 
nati, snow  is  never  deeper  than  a  foot,  and  rarely 
more  than  4  inches. 

Schools.  Virginia  and  Pennsylvania  have  pass- 
ed laws  to  provide  for  the  instruction  of  the  poor 
children,  but  with  little  efl'ect.  Ohio  has  appro- 
priated nearly  7  millions  of  acres  of  land,  valued 
at  above  a  million  of  dollars,  for  the  support  of 
schools,  about  half  which  has  been  sold,  and  fur- 
nished a  fund  of  ^400,000,  which  is  increasing. 
Last  year,  $60,000  was  also  raised  by  taxation. 
Many  schools  are  in  existence.  Cincinnati  has 
well  supplied  itself  with  valuable  schools.  Indi- 
ana, although  furnished  with  school  lands,  has 
made  no  good  use  of  them.  Though  Kentucky 
has  done  nothing  for  schools  by  law,  one  third  of 
the  children  are  instructed ;  and  measures  are 
taking  by  individuals  for  the  further  promotion  of 
common  education.  In  Tennessee  almost  nothing 
has  been  done.  Illinois  has  a  fund  of  $40,000, 
which  has  not  yet  been  applied  to  the  support  of 


PITTSBURGH. 


395 


•  1 


rs   were 
:tla,    St. 

10  upper 
[list,  and 
bcr,  De- 
,  cloudy, 
lich  falls 
c(l  to  fall 
St    rainy 

11  this  re- 
aper than 
le  waters 
t  Cincin- 
k1  rarely 

ave  pass- 
ihe  poor 
s  appro- 
d,  valued 
iipport  of 
,  and  fur- 
icreasing. 
taxation, 
inati   has 
Is.     Indi- 
mds,    has 
Kentucky 
e  third  of 
5ures   are 
motion  of 
t  nothing 
$40,000, 
upport  of 


schools;  and  Missouri  and  Mississippi  are  in  a 
similar  condition.  Louisiana  appropriates  ncaily 
,^\0O,(iOO  annnally,  out  of  licr  fund,  professedly  for 
tiie  instruction  of  tlic  poor,  but  with  very  little 
benefit.  Alabama,  Michigan,  Arkansas  and  Flor- 
ida, are  all  without  any  school  system,  though  all 
possess  resources  in  public  lands  reserved  for  the 
support  of  schools. 

The  [)opulation  of  the  West  is  about  4^  millions. 

Pittsburgh^  Penn.,  stands  at  the  junction  of  the 
Monongahela  and  Alleghany  rivers,  (over  which 
are  bridges,)  and  is  the  principal  manufacturing 
place  of  the  West.  The  soil  abounding  in  coal, 
and  much  machinery  being  moved  by  steam,  a 
cloud  of  smoke  is  constantly  rising  from  this  city. 
The  union  of  the  streams  forms  the  Ohio,  and 
Pittsburgh  in  some  degree  rt'sembles  New-York, 
in  occu[)ying  a  point.  Most  of  the  ground  is  level, 
but  a  part  of  it  rising  ;  the  streets  are  regular,  and 
there  are  several  adjacent  villages.  Pittsburgh  is 
323  miles  N.  W.  of  Washington,  201  W.  of  Har- 
risburgh,  297  W.  by  N.  Philadelphia.  Population 
in  1830,  12,568,  in  the  city  alone  ;  and  in  1834, 
with  the  suburbs,  it  probably  contained  30,000. 
The  city  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  Allegha- 
ny, by  a  steam  engine  of  80  horse  power,  which 
raises  it  116  feet,  and  can  furnish  a  million  and  a 
half  of  gallons  daily.  There  are  2  glass  houses, 
4  large  cotton  factories,  6  rolling  mills  and  a  nail 
factory,  several  breweries,  1 1  iron  foundries,  &c. 
making  270  manufactories  in  all,  producing  arti- 
cles worth  about  3  millions.  There  are  also  13 
churches,  the  Western  University  of  Pennsylva- 
nia, a  museum,  high  school,  a  branch  of  the  United 
States  Bank,  city  bank,  and  state  prison. 


';ll 


I 


I 


390 


C'INCINNATl. 


Tho  country  around  rillsliurirh  i^  rich  and  pic- 
lnrcs(|iir.  Tiic  liit^licst  hills  arc  al)oiit  liiO  iiivAj 
and  all  tiic  coal  njinrs  arc  on  a  level  a  little  more 
than  IK)0  (cet  ab  ;  e  the;  lower  part  of  the  cily. 
Fuel  is  excell(Mit,  ai  cxtreniel)' cheap.  The  P<mhi- 
sylvania  ('aiiiil  extends  to  the  Ohio  ut  this  place, 
opening  a  communication  hy  railroads  and  canal 
to  Philadelphia.  The  river  is  too  low  for  navij»a- 
tion  durin<r  a  ]);irt  ol'  the  autunni  ;  hut  the  naviga- 
tion to  VVIieeliiig  is  not  interrH|)ted  as  lon<r. 

Cincinnati^  (Ohio,)  one  oT  the  iinest  towns  of 
the  west,  and  next  to  New-Orleans  in  population, 
stands  on  i\\<\  north  bank  of  the;  Ohio,  497  miles 
west  of  Washington,  I  li  S,  \V.  by  VV,  of  Colum- 
bus, 79  nearly  north  of  Frankfort,  Ky.  It  is  on 
two  levels,  the  up[)er  of  which  is  (iO  feet  above  tbe 
river,  but  it  seems  from  some  |)oints  to  lie  in  the 
midst  of  a  large  amj)hillicatre,  bi'ing  surrounded 
by  hills.  The  streets  are  straight,  and  cross  at 
right  angles  ;  14  of  the  principal  ones  are  06  feet 
•  wide,  with  40  squares  between  thom,  390  feet  wide, 
which  are  divided  bv  intermediate  streets.  One 
square  is  devoted  to  some  of  the  [)ublic  buildings, 
which  are,  in  all  parts  of  the  city,  as  follows;  24 
churches,  the  college,  the  athenccum,  medical 
college,  theatre,  U.  S.  branch  bank,  mechanics' 
institute,  lunatic  asylum,  hospital,  4  markets,  court 
house,  bazaar,  prison,  the  Woodward  high  school, 
several  insurance  companies,Savingsbk.  and  Com- 
mercial Bank,  There  are  about  fifteen  public 
prints,  among  which  is  a  quarterly  medical  jour- 
nal. 2,700  children  are  taught  in  free  schools. 
There  are  2o  religious  societies,  34  charitable,  2 
fire   companies,    &lc,   &c.     In  1810,  there  were 


NKW-OHLKANS. 


397 


ind  pic- 
•)()  (crt, 
tic  more 
i\\v.  ciiy. 

is  place, 
lul  canal 
•  nnvi(»a- 
c  navigii- 

towns  of 
pulation, 
1)7    miles 
f  Cohim- 
It  is  on 
above  the 
lie  in    the 
rroundcd 
cross    at 
e  06  feet 
feet  wide, 
Dts,     One 
buildings, 
lows ;  24 
medical 
rchanics' 
els,  court 
rh  school, 
and  Com- 
n    public 
ical  jour- 
schools, 
ritable,  2 
ere  were 


only  about  2,500  inhabitants,  afid  in  1U32,  above 
3'^,()00.  Nnnurous  manufactories  are  carried  on 
here,  more  llian  Inrly  l)y  steam  ;  more;  than  10() 
steam-boats  have  Ixcn  built  at  the  wharves  ;  and 
an  acliv(!  and  (louiishin^  trade  is  carried  on 

jS7.  /i07//.s',  (Mi.ssouri,)  8fj0  miles  W.  Washin^r- 
ton,  1  n>  K,  JefUrson,  (>«  S.  W.  by  W.  Vandalia, 
is  on  the  west  baidv  of  Mississi[)pi  liiver,  and,  like 
Cincinnati,  on  two  lt'V(  Is.  The  principal  street  is 
about  1  mih;  lonn.  'I'bis  is  a  place  oi'  much  busi- 
ness, numerous  st(;jiml)oats  plying  to  N.  Orleans, 
interrupted  only  by  ice.  It  contains  a  branch  of 
the  IJ.  S.  15ank,  several  churches,  schools,  and  an 
Bcadc^my.  This  is  one  of  tin;  most  important  x.f 
the  W.  cities,  and  contained  in  1830,  0,694  inliab- 
itants. 

New  Orleans,  the  Mv(  city  of  the  West  and 
South,  is  96G  miles  fronj  Washington,  in  a  Ptrai'iht 
line,  and  1,189  by  j)ost  route.  It  stands  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  105  from  its  mouth, 
and  322  below  Natchez,  by  the  river.  It  occupies 
the  sloping  river's  bank,  and  has  a  swamp  in  the 
rear,  while  a  levee,  or  embankment,  prevents  it 
from  being  overflown  by  the  Mississippi  in  time 
of  floods.  The  lower  streets  are  below  the  level 
of  the  river  at  lowest  water,  while  it  is  often  swell- 
ed to  a  height  above  the  highest  streets.  The 
city  proper  has  its  streets  crossing  at  right  angles, 
and  is  about  2,000  by  4,000  feet  in  extent.  There 
are  several  suburbs  above  and  below  it,  and  one 
behind,  which  are  considered  as  forming  a  part  of 
the  city.  It  contains  a  branch  of  the  U.  S.  Bank, 
and  three  other  banks,  a  court  house,  Ursuline 
Convent,  market,  custom  house,  town  house,  2  or 

33* 


W!' 


f-  i 


'H 


308 


NATCHEZ. 


3  Protestant  churche?,  a  catliodral,  2  theatres,  <kc. 
Any  vessel  whieh  can  pasH  the  bar  may  be  moored 
at  the  levee;  jiihI  tfiere  are  usually  seen  a  multi- 
tude of  coasting  and  forciirn  sln|)s,  with  arks,  Hats 
and  steamboats,  which  naviiraic  the  niijrhty  river. 
Nothiojir  but  the  unlicalthiness  of  th«;  climate  pre- 
vents N.  Orlcan.^  from  becomiiif^  far  more  |)opu- 
lous  and  prosperous,  than  it  is.  Pop.  1830,  46, 
082:  of  whom  14,47(3  were  slaves,  and  11,562  free 
colored  persons. 

Natchez,  on  a  clay  bluff,  from  100  to  200  feet 
high,  on  the  VV.  side  of  the  Mississippi,  322  miles 
above  N.  Orleans,  by  the  river:  is  the  chief  town 
of  Mississippi,  and  contained,  in  1830,  2,789  in- 
habitants. The  route  to  N.  Orleans  across  Lake 
Pontchartrain  and  by  land,  is  only  157  miles. 
Tlie  streets  are  regidar,  and  there  arc  some  hand- 
some houses.  There  are  a  bank,  jail  and  court 
house.  During  three  quarters  of  the  year,  it  is 
considered  a  healthful  residence;  but  at  other  sea- 
sons, residents  and  strangers  are  exposed  to  bil- 
ious and  remittent  fevers.  A  very  active  trade  is 
carried  on  here,  chiefly  in  cotton  ;  and  a  line  of 
packets  to  Europe  has  been  projected.  Steam- 
boats constantly  stop  here  in  passing  up  and  down. 


I  theatres,  &c. 
my  he  moored 
seen  a  mvilti- 
w'llh  arks,  flats 
5  ini«rhty  river. 
i«  climate  pre- 
r  more  popu- 
►op.  1830,  46, 
ind  11,562  free 

lO    to  200   feet 
ippi,  322  mih's 
the  chief  town 
830,  2,789   in- 
is  across   Lake 
[ily    157    miles, 
arc  some  hand- 
jail  and  court 
the    year,  it  is 
tDutat  other  sea- 
exposed  to  bil- 
Y  active  trade  is 
;  and   a  line   of 
jected.     Steara- 
ngupand  down. 


<i»i 


!.■? 


fe 


\-*^ 


.  ]/(//J  '-• '  f/tr  /u>ff  /f\ ; • 


c 


•A  >^^ 


"'^/(- 


V.       i^'ihiinujti-r 


''"iffftt 


^^i^ 


; 


TRAVELLER'S    DIRECTORY. 


To  facilitate  the  Traveller  iu  his  progress,  a  selection  has 
been  made  of  some  oi  the  most  frequented  and  interesting"  routes 
in  the  northern  and  middle  states,  and  along-  thcseacoastuf  the 
southern  states,  g-iving  the  •^.uncs  of  the  cities,  towns,  and  villa- 
ges, with  the  distances  in  m\Ie;«,  in  pursuing  a  direct  course  as 
usually  travelled,  either  by  lard  or  water.  This  will  be  found 
extremely  convenient  by  the  travolkr  for  constant  reference, 
on  any  of  thcg'reat  routes  he.  ein  mentioned. 


ROUTE  of  the  g-reat  Eastern  Mail  Stage  from  Washington  to 
Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  New-Vork,  and  along- the  seaport 
towns  of  the  Eastern  States,  to  the  Bay  of  f  uiidy — copied 
from  the  Traveller's  Directory,  published  by  Goodrich. 


n 


Washingtos to  Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  Trenton,  New-York, 
New-Haven,  New-London,  Newport,  Providence,  R.  I.,  Bos- 
ton, d^c. 

A    STAGE    ROAD. 

Bladensburg-,  6 

The  east  branch  of  the  Patuxcnt  runs  13  miles  N.  W.  and  falls 
into  Patuxent  River  9  miles  S.  E.  from  this  place. 

Vansville 

Patuxent  River,  West  Branch 
do.  East        do. 

M 'Coy's 

Patapsco  River  rises  23  miles  N.  by  W.,  and  fulls 
peak  Bay  14  miles  E.  by  S.  from  this  place. 

Elkridge,  Patapsco  River 

Guinn's  Falls 

Guinn's  Flails  rises  12  miles  N.  W.,  and  falls  into  Patapsco 
River  4  miles  S.  E.  from  this  place. 

BALTIMORE 

Herring-  Run 

Bird's  Run 


8  miles 
3 
4 
4 
into  Chesa- 

4 
5 


3 
4 

8 


S 


400 


BALTIMOBE    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


Great  Gunpowder  Falls  3 

Little  Gunpowder  Falls  2 

Little  (t.  p.  Fall  rises  13  miles  N.  W.,  and  falls  into  G.  Falla 
1  niilc  below. 

Winter's  Run  4 

Winter's  Run  rises  12  miles  N.  W.,  and  falls  into  Chesapeak 
Bay,  thr.oujrh  Bush  lliver,  7  miles  S.  E.  from  tliis  place. 
Abingdon  3 

Hartlord  or  Bush  1 

Havre  de  (j'raco  11 

Cross  Susquchannah  River  1 

Susquehannah  River  is  the  greatest  stream  on  this  side  of 
the  inoiuitaitjs.  It  is  composed  of  two  branches  uniting  at 
Northumberland,  100  miles  W.  N.  W.  from  this  place.  The 
Fast  branch  rises  in  N.  ^'ork  state,  170  miles  N.  K.  from  North- 
umberbmd  ;  and  the  \V.  branch  rises  W.  by  S.  100  miles. 
Principio  Creek  2 

Charles  own  3 

JNVirth  P'ast  River  2 

Noril)  Fast  River  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  12  miles  N.  by  W., 
and  falls  into  Chesapeak  Bay  6  miles  S.  by  W.  from  this  [lace. 
Cross  Little  Flk  River  to  Elkton  8 

Big-  Flk  Creek  1 

Big  Flk  Creek  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  18  miles  N.  by  W^,  and 
falls  into  Chesapeak  Bay  13  miles  S.  W.  from  this  place. 
Delaware  Slate  Line  2 

Christiana  Creek  3 

Christiana  Creek  rises  9  miles  N.  W.  from  this  place,  and 
unites  with  Brandywine  Creek  below  Wilmington. 

Christiana  5 

W^bite  Clay  Creek  4 

White  Clay  Creek  rises  14  miles N.  W.,  and  falls  into  Chris- 
tiana Creek  a  little  below. 

Newport  1 

Wilviinglon  4 

Brandywine  Creek  1 

Brandywine  Creek  rises  35  miles  N.  W.,  and  unites  with 
Christiana  Creek,  a  mile  lielow.  Tiie  united  streams  fall  into 
the  Delaware  Bay  a  mile  below  the  junction. 

Naaman's  Creek  8 

Marcus  Hook  2 

Cross  r'he.-,ter  Creek  to  Chester  3 

Chester  Creek  rises  17  miles  N.  W. 
Ridley  Creek  1 

Ridley  Creek  rises  17  miles  N.  W. 

Crum  Creek  1 

Crum  Creek  rises  15  miles  N.  W.,  and  falls  into  Delaware 
River  1  mile  S.  E.  from  this  place. 


PHILADELPHIA   TO   NEW-YORK. 


401 


3 
2 

J.  Falls 

4 
Dsapeak 

3 

1 
11 

1 
I  side  of 
itinp"  at 
c.  The 
1  North- 
es. 

2 

3 

2 

by  W., 
is  place. 

8 

1 
W.,  and 

• 

2 
3 
ice,  and 


4 
,0  Chris- 

1 

4 

1 

itcs  with 
fall  into 

8 
2 
3 


1 
elaware 


I 


Darby  on  Darby  Creek,  6 

Darby  Crock  ri.ses  14  miles  N.  W.,  and  unites  with  Cobb's 
creek,  a  inilo  bel(»\v.  The  united  streams  lall  into  the  Dela- 
ware 3  miles  S,  from  this  place. 

Col)b's  Creek,  1 

Cobb's  Creek  rises  7  miles  N.  W. 


Cross  Schuylkill  River, 

8: 


iles  W.  N.  W..  and  falls  into  Del- 


SchuylkiU  River  rises  ao  miles 
aware,  5  miles  S.  by  W.  from  this  place. 

PHILADELPHIA  1 

Cross  Franklord  Creek  to  Fraiikford  6 

Holmesburg-  5 

Frankford  creek  rises  10  miles  W.  N.  W.,  and  falls  into  Dela- 
ware river  2  miles  E.  by  S.  from  this  place. 
Gross  Pennepack  Creek 

Pennepack  Creek  rises  13  miles  W.  N.  W.,  and  falls  into  Del- 
aware river,  I  mile  below  this  place. 

Poquasin  Creek  2 

Poquasin  Creek  rises  7  miles  N.  N.  W.,  and  falls   into  Dela- 
ware river  I  mUe  below. 

Neshaminy  iJreek  4 

Neshaminy  Creek  rises  14  miles  N.  W.  and  falls  into  Dela- 
ware river,  3  miles  S.  by  W.  from  this  place. 

Bristol  4 

Tully  Town  5 

JVlorrisvillc  .    5 

Cross  Delaware  river  to  Trenton  1 

Delaware  river  rises  in  the  state  of  New- York,  150  miles  N. 
f -om  this  place. 

Lawrenccville  6 

Princdun  4 

King-ston,  on  Millstone  river  2 

New- Brunswick.     (Cross  Rariton  River.)  14 

Raritan  River  rises  35  miles  N.  W.,  and  falls  mto  Raritan  bay, 
9  miles  E.  by  N.  from  this  place. 

Kahway  on  Rahway  River  12 

Elizabeihtown  5 

Newark  6 

Cross  Passaic  river 

Passaic  river  rises  in  the  state  of  New- York,  25  miles  N.  N. 
W.  from  this  place. 

Hackcnsat  k  river  4 

Haekensack  River  rises  30  miles  N.  from  this  place. 
Jersey  City  5 

Cross  Hu(i-=<.n  River  to  NEW-YOKK  1 

Hudson's  River  rises  25U  miles  N.  from  this  place. 
Harlaim.     (Cross  Harluim  creek.)  8 


! 


i    1 


i 


i 


402 


KEW-YORK   TO  BOSTON. 


1 1 


Harlaem  Creek  extends  between  Hudson  and  East  Rivers, 
forming-  Manhattan  island.  It  connects  with  Hudson's  river 
13  miles  above  New-York. 

West  Fciinis.     (Cross  Uronx  Creek.)  "  4 

New  Roc  hoi  le  7 

Rye.     (C'ro,9s  i?2/ra7/i  ijfmr  and  enter  Connecticut.)  8 

Greenwich  5 

Stamford  6 

Norwalk  river  and  Norwalk  9 

Sag-atnck  river  and  Sagatuck  3 

Fairfield  6 

Bridg^eport  4 

Stratford.     (Cross  Housatonic  River.)  4 
Honsatonic  river  rises   in  New-York  and  Massachusetts,  88 
miles  N.  N.  W.  from  this  place. 

Milford  4 

NRW  HAVEN  10 

Brandford  7 

Guildford  9 

Hammiuiasset  river  6 

KiUitigworth  3 

Saybro'ik  9 

ConnecficLit  river  2 
Conm  ( ticut  River  rises  270  miles  N.  by  E.  from  this  place, 
near  Canada,  and  New  Hampshire  line 

Cross  to  Lyme  2 

Riverhead  9 

NEW  LONDON  7 

Cross  Thames  river  to  Groton  1 
Thames  River  rises  near  Worcester,  Massachusetts,  N.  by  E. 
65  miles. 

Mystick  river  8 

Stonington  6 

Pawcatuck  River  and  Rhode  Island  State  line  2 
Pawcatuck  River  rises  26  miles  N. 

Westerly  3 

Charleston  12 

Towerhill,  South  Kinp-sfon,  12 

Cross  Narragansett  Bay  to  Canonicut  Island  2 
Narraganset   Bay  is  a  beautiful  inlet,  extending  to  Provi- 
dence, S.'S  miles  north.     It  is  studded  with  islands. 

Cross  the  Island  1 

Newport  3 

Bristol  Ferry  11 
Cross  (he  Ferry  1 

Bristol  % 

Warren  4 


Atlc 


BOSTON   TO   PORTLAND. 


403 


Rivers, 

I's  river 

4 
7 

8 
5 
5 
9 
3 
6 
4 
4 
setts,  88 

4 
10 
7 
9 
6 
3 
9 
2 
his  place, 

2 
9 

7 
1 

;,  N.  by  E. 

8 
6 
2 

3 

12 
12 
2 
to  Provi- 

1 
3 

11 
I 

a 

4 


1 
4 
8 
7 
2 
11 
8 
2 
1 
1 

4 
2 

1 
6 
2 
4 

3 

4 


Pawtucket  River 

Pavvtucket  river  rises  near  Worcester,  45  miles  N.  W. 

Providence 

Pawtucket  river,  falls,  and  manufactories 

Attleboroug'h,  Mass. 

Foxborougii 

Walpole 

Dedhcim.    (Cross  Ncponset  River.) 

Roxbury 

BOSTON 

Cross  Charles  River  to  Charlcslown 

Cross  Mystic  River  to  Chclsra 

Mystic  river  rises  12  miles  N.  W. 

Chelsea  Creek 

Sawgus  river 

Sawg-us  river  rises  10  miles  N.  W. 

Lynn  (Marblehead  6) 

Salem 

Cross  Beverly  Harbor  to  Beverly 

Wen  ham 

(to  Gloucester  C.  Ann  12) 

Hamilton 

Ipswich  on  Ipswich  River 

ipswich  river  rises  S.  W.  12  miles,  and  falls  into  Ipswich 
Bay  3  miles  N.  E.  from  this  place. 

Rowley  4 

Newburyport  7 

Cross  Merrimac  river  to  Salisbury  .    3 

Merrimac  river  is  a  large  stream  rising  in  New  Hampshire 
N.  W.     100  miles  N.  W.  Chelmeslord  to  Charlestown  is  the 
Middlesex  Canal. 

New  Hampshire  State  line 

Hampton 

Greenland 

Portsmouth 

Cross  Pisquataqua  R.  and  enter  the  State  of  Maine 

Kittery  4 

Pi:  quataqua  river  rises  40  miles  N.  by  W.,  and  falls  into  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  3  miles  S.  E. 

York  5 

Wells  13 

Kennebunk,  on  Kcnnebunk  river  Q 

Kennebunk  river  rises  10  miles  N.  W. 

Saco,  on  Saco  river  10 

Saco  river  rises  among  the  White  Mountains  in  New  Hamp- 
shire, about  67  miles  N.  W.  from  this  place. 

Scarborough  6 


hi 


3 
6 

8 

5 


404 


PORTLAND   TO   CASTINE. 


n 


/' 


Portland  10 

Cross  l*re3iinipRrut  river  6 

Nnilli  Varmotiili  6 
J^Kr^iinipricut  liver  rises  50  miles  N.  VV, 

Freepoi't  6 

Brunswick  9 
Androdcog'gin  river  ri?es  100  miles  N.  N.  W.,   and  falls  into 
Kennebcck  river  8  miles  J\.  E. 

BaLli  7 

Kenncberk  River  3 

Kcnnebeck  river  rises  130  miles  N.,  and  falls  into  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean  14  miles  south. 

Woolwich  3 
Cross  7Vo  Bays. 

V^  iacaflset  9 

A'no  6 

S  A  opscut  river  3 
Shev'^'  out  river  rises  33  miles  N.  N.  E.,  and  falls  into  the  At- 
lantic Cvoaii  20  miles  S.  by  W. 

Newcastle  3 

Damariscotta  River  3 
Damariscotta  River  is  principally  a  larg-c  bay,  extending"  N. 
by  K.  10  miles,  and  l.dling*  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  lb  miles   S. 
by  W.  from  this  place. 

Waldoboroug^h  9 
Cross  St.  Georg-e's  River  to  Warren  8 
Thomastown  5 
Camden  11 
Lincolnville  7 
JNorthport  B 
Belfast  6 
Prospect  6 
Penobscot  River  3 
Penobscot  River  rises  140  miles  VV.  N.  W.,  and  falls  into  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  through  Penobscot  Bay,  40  miles  S.  by  W. 
Buckstown  9 
Penobscot  13 
CasHne  -  4 
Bluehill  10 
Surry  g 
Ellsworth  6 
Trenton  (J 
Cross  Union  River  head  of  Frenchman's  bay  to  Sul- 
livan 9 

Union  River  rises  40  miles  N.  by  E.,  and  falls  into  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean,  30  miles  south 


NEW-YORK    TO    BOaTON. 


405 


0 
6 
6 

6 
9 
ills  into 

7 
3 

3  Atlan- 


9 
5 
3 
the  At- 

3 
3 

ding-  N. 
niles   S. 

9 
8 
5 
U 
7 
5 
6 
6 
3 
into  the 
W. 
9 
13 
4 
10 
8 
6 
6 

9 
le  Atlan- 


'Paunlon 

Goldsboroug'h  5 

S'tcubcn  9 

Cross  Narrng'uag'us  River  to  llarring-ton  8 

Narraguag-us  River  rises  32  inilea  N.  N.  W.,  and  falls   into 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  10  miles  S.  S.  E. 

Columbia  12 

Cross  Pleasant  R.  Hay,  several  branches  to  Jone.-boro'  9 

Pleasant  River  rises  20  niiies  N.  W.,  and  the    bay  c^    necta 
with  the  Atlantic  Ocean  10  miles  south. 

Cross  Chandler's  River 

Machias  River,  west  branch  7 

Machias  River  rises  40  miles  N.  VV.  from  this  place. 

Machias,  on  Machias  Bay 

East  falls  of  Machias 

(Oranp-e  T.  10) 

(LubccU  8) 

Dennevsvillc 

Kastport  Ferry 

East})ort 

Kastport  Ferry  to  Robbinstows 

Robbinstown  is  situated  cm  P'^ssat^.^qiioddy,  or  St.  Croix  ri- 
ver, which  is  the  boundary  bet ». ten  the  U.  S.  and  the  British 
Province  of  New  Brunswick.  It  rises  GO  miles  N.  W.  by  N. 
from  Robbinstown. 


2 
6 


23 

14 

4 

13 


New-York  to  New-Haven^     'iw-London,  Norwich^  Newport^ 
Providence^  and  Boston,  by  Steamboat  and  Stage. 
By  Steamboat  from  Fulton-st.,  U.  S.  Navy-yard,  and  74's  on 
right.  1 

Alms-house  and  Penitentiary,  on  left  1 

Mouth  of  Harlem  River  4 

Harlem  River  ext(>nds  from  Hell  Gate  to  the  Hudson,  and  in- 
sulates the  City  of  New- York  from  the  main  land.  There  are 
3  bridg-cs  over  it,  and  tide  mills  near  the  Hudson. 

Hell  Gate  is  a  remarkable  passage,  where  the  water,  at  cer- 
tain times  of  the  tide,  is  in  great  commotion. 

Frog's  Point,  enter  Long  I.  Sound  9 

Sand's  Point,  and  L.  House  6 

Eaton's  Neck  r. 

Lloyd's  Neck  r.  .'  IB 

Norwalk  Island's  1.  10 

Shipan,  seat  of  the  late  M.  Rogers  on  1. 

Black  Rock  1.  9 

Stratford  Point  1.  6 

New  Haven  L.  House  13 

(up  to  long  wharf,  4  miles) 


!    il 


Ill*' 


406 


KEW-TOBK   TO   QUCDEC. 


t! 


Faulkner's  If^lands  14 

fe'aybrook  L.  Hdiisf,  mouth  of  Connecticut  River       16 
(Up  tlic  river  to  Hartf«>rci  47  niilcy,  a  t>tcain-boat  route. 
1  hid  is  a  very  interesting*  route,  and  is  g^encraily  travelled  in 

Bumnier  since  the  introduction  of  fctcam-boats.) 

Gull  Island  L.  House  Jl 

Fisher's  Island,  west  end  4 

Stoningrton   lies  4  miles  N.  of  Fisher's  I.,  and  is  famous  for 

its  noble  dt  fence  during-  an  attack  in  the  late  war. 

Firfber's  Isliind.  east  end  6 

Watch  Hill  L.  House,  N. 

N.  point  of  iilock  I.  16 

Point  Judith  9 

Soutli  King-sionon  left  6 

Entrance  of  Newport  Harbour 


Brenton's  Point  and  Forts 

NEWPORT 

Prudence  Island,  south  end 

To  Bristol,  6  miles  on  r. 

Canonicut  Pomt 

Pawtucket  River 

PROVIDE>fCE 

jBy  Land. 
BOSTON,  as  in  pa^e  403 


4 

2 
6 

9 
6 
6 

42 


\P 


New-  York,  and  by  Hudson  River  to  Albany,  and  by  Land  and 
Water  to  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

NEW-YORK 

This  is  a  very  interesting"  route,  by  which  a  traveller  may 
pass  from  Washinofton  to  Quebec  in  from  7  to  8  days,  distance 
759  miles,  with  onl}^  178  of  land  carriage.  I'he  several  rivers, 
and  Lake  Champlain,  are  particularly  interesting. 

Steam-boat  dock,  Liberty-street,  to 

St.  John's  church,  E.  side  of  Hudson  R. 

State  Prison  wharf  E. 

Fort  Gansevoort  E. 

Hoboken,  N.  J.  West.     (Seat  of  Col.  Stevens.) 

Weehawk,  on  W.,  begin  Palisado  rocks 

Duelling  ground,  W.,  foot  of  Palisados 

Village  of  Bloomingdale  E.  3 

Asylum  for  the  Insane,  E.  2ik 

Manhattan villc,  E.  5 

Ruins  of  Fort  Lee  on  W.  summit  of  Palisados,  300  feet 
high,  U 

Ruins  of  Fort  Washington,  E.  230  feet  high  | 

On  it  was  a  battle  during  the  revolutionary  war— 2000  rnen 
killed  and  taken  prisoners. 


fe< 


on 
lot 
val 


lar 


va.« 


KEW-TORK   TO  QUEBBO 


407 


14 

16 
te. 
tvcllcd  ia 

11 
4 
imous  for 


15 
9 
6 

4 

2 
6 

9 
6 
6 

42 

Land  and 


vellcr  may 
distance 
cral  rivers, 


8. 


3 

I 

)0  feet 
U 

I 
—2000  rnen 


U 
3 


3i 

1 
1 


Spuyton  Dnyvil  Creek,  E.  2 

Thifi  Creek  <  onnrcts  the  Hudson  and  East  Rivers,  under  tho 
name  of  Hiula'in  River.  It  has  3  bridg-c^ — and  quarries  of 
marble  are  on  its  bunk   1  mile  e.  from  the  Huddon. 

Ruins  of  Fort  Independence,  E.  on  hill  N.of  creek        k 

Philipstown  or  Yonkors,  on  Sawmill  Creek  4 

Closter  Landing*,  W. 

P.  Rhinclandcr's  seat,  E.  summit  of  hill 

Division  line  of  N.  York  and  New  Jersey,  on  W. 

Termination  of  Palisadoa 

Dobb's  Ferry 

Entrance  to  Tappan  Zco 

Slote  Landing*,  VV. 

Tarrytown,  E, 

Sleepy  Hollow,  E. 

Nyack,  VV. 

Quai  ries  of  red  sand  stone. 

Sparta,  E. — quarries  of  marble  3 

A  Pond,  source  of  Hackensack,  on  the  mountain,  W. — 150 
feet  above  tide. 

Sing'  Sinar,  or  Mount  Pleasant,  E.  I 

Teller's  Point,  E.  1 

Division  of  Tappan  and  Havcrstraw  Bays.  CrotonR.  enters 
on  E. — its  sources  are  in  Putnam  Co.  and  it  ia  about  40  miles 
long.  A  Canal  is  contemplated  from  Sharon,  Con.,  along"  the 
valley  of  the  Housatonic  and  Croton  rivers  to  New- York. 

Vrediker  mountain,  W.  670  feet  high 

Entrance  of  Havcrstraw  Bay,  and  distant  view  of  the  High- 
lands. 

Haverstraw  or  Warren,  VV. 

Stony  Point  (fort  in  ruins)  4 

Verplanck's  Point  and  seat  I 

Entrance  of  the  Highlands 

Gibraltar,  or  Caldwell's,  VV.  1 

Peekskill,  E. 

Dunderberg*  mountain,  900  feet  hig*h 

There  are  fine  views  from  the  summit  of  this  mountain  to  a 
vast  distance. 

Entrance  to  the  Race,  between  noble  mountains  on 
each  side 

Anthony's  Nose,  E.  1000  feet  high 

Great  bare  mountain,  VV.  1300  leet  high 

Ruins  of  Forts  Clinton  and  Montgomery 

Polaper's  Creek,  on  VV. 

Buttermilk  Falls,  Lydig's  mills,  VV. 

Sugar  Loaf  mountain,  E.  850  feet  high 

U.  S.  Military  Academy,  West  Point 


1 
2 


5i 


h\ 


408 


NEW-YORK    TO   aUEDrc. 


M 


Here  arc  cxtriisivr  atone  rdificrn,  and  alout  250  Cadets. 
Fort  I'ntfiiini,  000  fcft  Ihl'Ii,  W. 
K<»9clii!-^k(»'s  riKiiijinriit,  VV. 
C(*i...Iitunoii  I-liifi(l,  K. 
West  I'uini  roundly,  K. 

Coldspt  inpr  Villairo,"  E.  2 

Crow'fl  NvM  inormtiiin,  W.  1  100  fct  t  Idf^h 
Hidl  Hill  Mountain,  K.  HSU  fcvi  Iml-Ii 
Break  Neck  mountain,  K.  IIHO  leet  Iii.t'i 
IJutter  Hill  mountain,  W.  1520  Icct  hiffli  IJ 

Cornwall,  W. 

Polopcll's  Inland  IJ 

New  Windsor,  VV.  li 

Chamber's  Creek,  W. 

Fishkill  Creek,  K.  ^  1 

On  this  Creek  are  extensive  Cotton  and  Woollen   Factories 
one  mile  from  the  Hudson. 
Ncwburg",  W.  1 

W.  Deiming's  seat,  mouth  of  Fiahkill  creek 
Fishkill,  E.— Do  Wiiit's  seat 

Low  Point  3 

Donscomma  Point  2 

Hamburg-h,  mouth  of  Wapping-cr's  Creek,  E. 
Valuable  Mills  and  Factories. 
Marlborough,  W.  2 

Seat  of  the  late  George  Clinton,  E. 

Barnenfat  2 

Much  Lime  is  made  along  the  river. 

Milton,  half  way  between  New- York  and  Albany. 

Poughkcepsic  Landing,  E.  3 

The  village  is  distant  one  mile  fronn  the  river. 

New  Paltz,  W.  and  Ferry 

Seat  of  J.  Roosevelt,  E. 

Crom  Elbow,  VV.  3^ 

First  view  of  Catskill  mountains 

Hyde  Park,  E.     (Scat  of  Dr.  Hosack.)  2 

Pelham  3 

Seat  of  Gen.  Lewis,  E.  1} 

Esopus  meadows,  VV. 

Seat  of  J.  Thomson,  Esq.,  E.  3 

Mouth  of  Walkill  River 

Esopus  Landing,  VV.  _  IJ 

Canal  to  Delaware  river  leads  up  this  valley. 

Kingston  Village,  VV.,  4  miles  from  river 

Rhinebeck  Landing,  E.  1 

The  village  is  2  miles  from  river. 

Seat  of  Gen.  Armstrong,  E.  6 


nUD805f    TO   ALBAMY. 


409 


s. 


H 

n 
1 

actorica 
1 


3 
2 


2 
2 


2 
3 

li 
3 

n 
1 

6 


Scat  of  li.  Brown,  c.iq.  E. 

Rcdliook  lower  f  ..iiHJiti'.--,  R.  i 

Seat  (•!   MrH,  Mont<,'utnery,  E. 

Mngdulcn  Islands  1| 

Seat  of  J.  Living-aton,  E. 

Glnug-ow,  W.  I 

P.  H.  Liviii^Hton,  E. 

Rodlj(M)k  upper  Landing",  E,  1| 

Sauucrtics,  | 

Seats  of  It.  L.  Livinpston,  and  E.  P.  Living-dton  I 

Bristol,  flats  and  shoals,  W. 

East  Camp  4| 

Fine  view  of  the  Catskill  mountain  and  tavern  on  the  top. 

Ancram  Creek,  K.  2i 

Old  Livincfsion  manor-house 

Seat  of  J.  Livitiprston— Oak  Hill,  E. 

Catskill  Landing-,  W.  2 

Villag-c  half  a  mile  Lehind  the  hill — 8  uules  to  foot  of  moun- 
tain. 

Mount  Merino  6 

Prospect  Hill— S.  Plumb,  E. 

Flat  between  Athens  and  Hudson  cut  by  a  ditch  for  a 
ferry 

HUDSON,  E.  I 

Athens,  W. 

Paddock's  Point,  W.  4 

Abrani's  Creek,  E.  «     ^ 

Factories  and  Mills. 

Seat  of  R.  S.  Living-ston  : 

Coxsackie,  VV.  SI 

Kitidcrhook  Landino-,  E.  It 

The  Villag-e  is  5  miles  from  river. 

JVew  Baltimore,  W.  4J 

Here  the  navig-ation  beg-ins  to  be  very  shoal  and  intricate  to 
Troy. 

Coeymans,  VV. 

Schodac,  E. 

Castleton,  E. 

Hosre  Berg-,  E.  2' 

Overslaug-h  shoal  and  dam 

Norman's  Kill  Mills  3 

ALBANY*  2 

*  Most  travellers  to  the  north  will  piefer  to  take  the  railroad  line,  via 
the  Springs,  from  the  Railroad  Office,  State  st-,  Albany,  daily  at  9  A.  M. 
Leaves  Sarato  a,  J  past  3  A  iM. ;  and  Schenectady,  ^^  before  II  V..M.;  and 
th«  Afternoon  line  from  Albany,  J^  past  "2  P.  M. ;  Saratoga  Springs,  i  be- 
fore 5  P.  M.  ;  and  from  Schenectady,  at  i  past  4  P:  U. 


410 


NEW-YOllK    TO    QUEBEC. 


'I 


Tlio  Canal  IJasin,  upponite  tlie  northern  part  of  the  City,  \3 
thrce-iourth!?  of  a  mile  long-,  and  from  50  to  100  yards  wide. 
Tlie  depth  of  water  is  12  fiet,  and  here  is  the  first  lock  on  the 
Canal.  From  this  to  Uullalo,  by  the  Canal,  is  300  miles  Near 
the  Basin-lock  is  the  State  Arsenal  and  the  seat  of  Stephen  Van 
liensselaer,  the  Fatroon,  and  nearer  still  is  that  oi  his  son. 
Mills  and  Factories  on  the  Creek. 

Bath  Villag-e,  E.  1 

The  Stag-e-road  leads  along-  the  Canal  and  river  to  Troy. 
Wynant's  Kill,  E.  3 

On  thisi?tream  are  valuable  mills  and  factories. 
Washington — Roud  to  Shaker's  Village 
P(>eaten  A  ill,  K.  3 

Flour  mills,  &c. 
U.  S.  Arsenal — Gibbonsville 

An  extensive  government  depot  of  arms  and  ammuniiion  for 
the  northcrti  frontier. 
TROY,  E.  1 

A  b«  autifid  and  flourishini^  city,  with  an  active  population 
and  commerce. 

Travellers  can  cross  the  ferry  here,  visit  Troy  and   Lansing-- 
bnrpfh,  ind  oross  tlio  bridge  to  VVaterford  ;  or   cotitinu*'  (>n   the 
\V.  sid  i  and  see  the  locks,    junction  of  I-^rie  and  Champlain  ca- 
nals, Ci>hof;'s  Falls  on  the  Mohawk,  6cc. 
Hank's  I'cll  l'\jundry 
West  Troy 

Sule  cut  into  the  Hudson  river  here,  to  cress  from  the  Canal 
to  Troy.  Here  are  3  locks.  On  the  K.  side  of  the  Island  is  the 
darn  and  great  sloop  lock  ;  and  the  Mohawk  river  here  unites 
with  the  Hudson  by  a  number  of  channels. 

The  jmictionof  the  Erie  and  Champlain  canals  li 

Ten  locks  of  the  Eric  canal — above  them  it  turns  to  the  west, 
and  in  ?  miles  crosses  the  Mohawk  river  to  N.  side  on  f>n  aque- 
duct, and  re-crosses  to  the  south  side  again,  4  miles  east  of 
Schenectady.  The  whole  of  this  njute  is  eminently  curious 
and  interesting,  and  is  described  in  this  work— see  index. 
Cohoe's  Bridge  over  the  Mohawk  1 

Fine   view  of  the  Falls  from  the  bridge.     The  Champlain 
canal  is  conducted  over  the  river,  a  quarter  of  a   mile  east  of 
the  bridge,  by  means  of  a  dam  which  backs  the  water.     The 
boats  are  poled  over  this  passage  in  a  hazardous  manner. 
Wattrford  1 

On  the  north  side  of  the  river,  near  the  village,  is  a  side-cut 
from  the  Northern  canal  into  the  Hudson  river,  by  means  of  3 
locks. 
Borough  or  Mechanic ville  8 

Anthony's  Kill 


NEW-YORK   TO   QUEBEC. 


411 


5  City,  19 
tcl3  wido. 
ck  on  the 
C3  Near 
phen  Van 
f  his  son. 

1 

)  Troy. 


munition  for 

1 

population 

(1  I^ansin^- 
tjur  «'n  the 
Linplain  ca- 


n  the  Canal 
sland  is  the 
here  unites 

U 
to  the  west, 
Ion  nn  aque- 
[liles  east  of 
l\tly  curious 
lindex. 
I 
Champlain 
I  mile  east  of 
ater.    The 
tanner. 
1 
a  side-cut 
means  of  3 

8 


Rises  in  the  long-  pond  in  the  town  of  Ballston,  and  is  15  or 
20  miles  long-.  A  roud  here  branches  ofl'  W.  to  Ballston  (12 
milcri)   and  Saratoga  Springs  (15  miles.) 

Stillwa(cr  3J 

Here  are  mills  and  falls  in  the  Hudson. 

Bemiss'  Heights,  W.  2j| 

Battle,  Oct.  1777. 

Freennan's  Farm  2 

Battle,  Sept.  1777. 

Swords'  (now  Smith's  tavern)  1 

Wlicre  Gen.  Fraser  died  in  1777. 

Sarato<>"a  4 

Fish  creek  di.scharfres  the  waters  of  Saratog-a  Lake  and  of 
the  crcek.s  that  run  through  tlie  village  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga 
Springs;  its  course  is  Vv.  A  roiid  to  those  celebrated  places 
leads  olV  west  to  Saratoga  11  miles,  to  Ballston  18  miles. 

East  of  the  road,  in  Saratoga,  is  the  field  where  Burgoyne 
surrendered  to  the  American  army,  under  Gen.  Gates,  17th 
Oct.  1 777.  The  site  is  now  parUy  occupied  by  the  Basin  for  the 
canal.     On  Fish  creek  are  mills,  &c. 

Dam  and  Locks 

Northumhcrlatid  5 

Saratoga  Falls  of  Hudson  River. 

Fort  Miller  Brido-e 

Do.  canal  and  Falls  of  18  feet,  with  2  locks       3 

Fort  Edward  8 

Great  dam  over  the  Hudson,  30  feet  high  and  91)0  feet  long, 
that  fills  the  summit  level  of  this  canal,  A  passage-boat  runs 
on  this  canal,  from  this  to  Whitehall,  23  miles,  connected  with 
stages  frotn  Albany,  and  Steam-boats  on  Lake  Champlain. 

Feeder  from  Hudson  Kiver  | 

Do.         do.        above  Glenn's  F"'all3  2 

Here  the  canal  leaves  the  stage- road  and  is  on  the  east  in  the 
swamps. 

Sandy  Hill  Village 

Baker's  Falls  in  Hud.aon  River  here  are  very  fine,  and  should 
be  visited  ;  as  also,  Glenn's  Falls,  4  miles  west.  Lake  George 
is  1 1  miles  N. 

Kingsbury  Village  5 

Fort  Anne  5 

Narrows  6 

Whitehall  5 

Here  the  canal  terminates — 3  locks  fall  26  feet. 
This  village  was  famous  in  the  American  revolution;  then 
it  was  Skenesborough.     Here  burgoyne,  in  1777,  destroyed  the 
American  flotilla,   the  stores,   baggage,  &c. — Tiie  Lake  is  for 
many  miles  a  narrow,  muddy,  sluggish  river,  with  high  and 


I 


I    i 


M 


412 


IffiW-TOKlC  TO  QUEBEC. 


rocky  ridges  on  each  side ;  at  the  Hall  is  low  marshy  land, 
throug-h  which  the  river  winds  Us  way.  On  the  E.  is  Poultney 
River  that  rises  in  Vermont ;  on  the  west  is  south  Bay. 

/?y  Steamboat. 

Ticonderopfa  23 

Ruins  of  Fort — very  famous  in  the  old  French  war  of  1755, 
and  in  the  Revolutionary  war — now  bclong"3  to  W.  F.  Pell,  ECsn. 
of  New-York.  On  the  E.  is  Mount  Independence.  On  the  VV. 
Mount  Defiance  ;  on  the  summit  of  this  mount  the  British 
planted  cannon,  &c. — Outlet  of  Lake  George  on  W. 

Five- mile  Point,  Shoreham,  Vermont.  5 

Crown  Point,  W.  9 

Great  ruins  of  Fort  to  be  seen. 

Ferry  over  to  Vermont 

North  West  Bay  9 

Basin  Harbor,  Vermont,  E.  3 

Mouth  of  Narrows  2 

Otter  Creek  2 

This  creek  rises  60  miles  S. — on  it  is  Vergennes,  a  place  of 
some  note. 

Essex,  W.  5 

Charlotte,  E. 

The  Brothers  (islands)  10 

Burlin^-ton^  Vt.  E.  5 

Pass  Schuyler's  Island,  W. 

Onion  River,  E, 

Rises  50  miles  S.  E. 

Colchester  Point  7 

River  au  Sable  and  Adgate's  Falls,  W. 

This  rises  40  or  50  miles  S.  W.  in  the  mountains.  Very  val- 
uable iron -works  are  on  its  borders. 

Town  of  Peru 

South  Hero  2 

This  Island  divides  the  Lake  equally  N.  and  S.  for  12  milea. 

Several  smaller  islands  occur, 

Cumberland  Bay,  VV.  7 

The  scene  of  McDonough's  victory,  10  Sept.  1814. 

Plattsburgh,  on  the  river  Saranac  I 

This  river  rises  in  the  wild  and  mountainous  region,  50  niiica 
S.  W. 

A  canal  is  contemplated  from  Plattsburgh  to  Ogdensburg,  on 
the  River  St.  Lawrence.  The  route  is  practicable  and  has  been 
surveyed. 

Cumberland  Head  3 

Ram's  Head,  W. 

Isle  la  Motte,  E.  4 

Sister  Islands  and  channel,  dividing  the  islands  of  N.  andS. 


U 


NEW-YORK    TO    QUEBSC- 


413 


luUney 


>3 

If  1755, 

:11,  Esq. 

theW. 

British 

5 
9 


9 
3 
2 
2 
place  of 


10 
6 


7 

'ery  val- 


2 
|2  miles. 


1 

50  miles 

tburg,  on 
Ihas  been 


4 
\.  andS. 


Hero,  and  channel  to  St.  Allians  and  SwitntoHj  in  Vermont,  E. 
where  are  marble  quarries.     Missisque  Bay  lies  N.  and  is  part 
in  Canada. 
Chazy  7 

The  river  of  that  r»ame  rises  20  miles  W. 
Chainplain  Villacre 
Six  miles  N.  W.  orj  Big-  Chazy  river 
Lat.  45  deg-.  N. — boundary  line  of  New- York  and  Ca- 
nada Q 
Rouse's  Point  and  Fort,  W. 
Windmill  Point,  E. 
Oddletown,  2  miles  W. 

Ash  Island— Fort  2 

l.a  Colle  Creek,  W. 

Jslc  aux  N«nx — Fort  7 

South  River  on  E. 

Si.  Johns,  or  Dorchester  9 

Here  is  the  River  Sorel  or  Richlien,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  which  enters   the  St.  Lawrence  at  the   head  of  Lake  St. 
Peter,  at  Fort  William  Henry,  60  miles  from  Rouse's  Point. 
To  Chambly  Castle,  10  miles  N. 

By  Stage. 
Half-way-house,  on  Montreal  River  9 

This  River  rises  in  an  extensive  swamp  to  the  S.  W.  20  miles, 
and  enters  the  River  Sorel  at  Chambly. 

La  Prairie  Villag-e,  on  the  St.  Lawrence  8 

To  Longueil,  ^)  miles  north 

By  Steam  Ferry- Boat  to 
MONTREAL  8 

(on  the  St.  Ijxwrcnce  River.^ 
Rapids  and  Isle  of  St.  Helena,  S. — Longueil. 
St.  Francis,  N.  or  left  side 

Commune  Isles,  S.  6 

Boucherville,  S. 
Point  aux  Trembles,  N. 

A  branch  of  the  Ottawas  or  Grand  R.  on  N. — bridge   7 
Cape  St.  xMichael,  E. 
St.  Sulpice 

Sorel,  or  Fort  William  Henry  30 

Mouth  of  the  Sorel,  or  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain,  S. 
Entrance  of  Lake  St.  Peter,   Yanrasca  River  and  St. 

Francis,  S.  10 

These  two  streams  rise  near  the  Vermont  line,  and  run  60  to 
100  miles  from  S.  E.  to  N.  W. 
River  Masquinotigre  N.,  and  Island  S. 
1'ermination  of  Lake  St.  Peter  18 

Three  Rivers^  half  way  from  Montreal  to  Quebec 


MM 


414 


ALBAXY  TO  NIAGARA. 


II    l! 


River  St.  Maurice,  N. 

River  Bccancour,  S. 

St.  Anna  23 

Tlieso  fotreams  coming  from  opposite  <ilr*H  'io.ns.  and  ent<  rio^ 
the  St.  Lawrence  at  this  place,  oriainHte.-J  t"je  nai»,  i  of  the  town. 
The  St.  Maurice  rises  in  the  N.  VV.  16i*  milcni,  near  the  head- 
waters of  streams  that  full  into  Jumes'  fiay. 

River  Jacques  Carlier,  N.  20 

Richlieu  Rapids 

Cape  liouge 

River  C/iaudiere,  S.  23 

Hcirrhts  and  Plains  of  Abraham,  N. 

Wolfe's  cove,  Martello  Tower  3 

QUEBEC,  N.  3 

Point  Levy,  on  S. 

Island  of  Orleans,  N.  E.  distant  4  miles 

Falls  of  Montmorenci 


From  Albany,   by  the  Grand  Erie  Canal  to  Utica,  Rochester^ 

Buffalo,  and  Niagara, 

ALBANY,  pag-e  409,  to  the  junction  of  Erie  and  Cham- 
plain  canals  6 

To  avoid  the  circuitous  route  by  the  canal  from  Albany  to 
Schenectady,  which  is  27  miles,  and  occupies  10  or  11  hours, 
owinpr  to  the  numerous  locks,  (27,)  travellers  proceed  on  the 
Rail  Road  to  Schenectady,  15  miles,  and  take  the  boat  there. 

Three  locks  near  the  Cohoz  bridge  \ 

Four  Locks,  rise  32  feet  2 

Half  a  mile  on  the  canal  is  cut  through  a  solid  rock  27  feet 
deep. 

The  Cohoz  Falls,  on  the  N.  close  to  \  oe  canal,  are  73  ft.  high 
and  800  feet  wide,  and  present  an  imposing  sight.  The  scenery 
on  this  route,  is  highly  picturesque. 

¥\rsX  or  Lower  Aqueduct,  over  the  great  Mohawk  R.  which 
inhere  1200    ..    wide  2 

The  canal  cr^^fi?  *  to  the  N.  side  on  25  stone  piers,  elevated 
40  feet  above  tlie  river — a  great  work. 

Wat  Hoix  Gap  3 

A  curious  Ravine,  and  the  only  practicable  route  for  the  ca- 
nal. Near  by,  in  ihe  river,  is  a  rapid  of  10  feet  descent.  On 
theN.  the  canal  is  bounded  by  a  precipice  146  feet  high,  which, 
in  many  places,  overhangs  the  Canal,  aiid  is  quite  appalling  to 
the  sight.  On  the  left  is  the  river,  washing  the  bank  of  the 
Canal,  which  is  formed  in  a  solid  and  masterly  style. 

Second  or  Upper  Aqueduct,  where  the  canal  recrOsses  to  the 
S.  side  of  the  Mohawk.  10 

The  Mohawk  River  here  is  750  feet  wide,  and  \b  passed  on  16 


d 


ALBANY   '10    NIAGAHA. 


416 


23 

ric  town, 
le  head- 

20 


23 

3 

3 


lochester^ 

im- 

6 
Albany  to 
11  hours, 
ed  on  the 
t  there. 

1 

2 
ck  27  feet 

r3  ft.  high 
le  scenery 

K.  which 

2 
3,  elevated 


or  the  ca- 
cent.  On 
gh,  which, 
jpalling-  lo 
ank  of  the 

jsses  to  the 

10 
,8Bcd  on  16 


piers,  similar  to  the  former  of  slone.  but  both  trunks  are  of 
wood.  In  this  vicinity  are  several  I'tkd.  A  feeder  ont  ofth^ 
River  in-i)  the  canal  runs  under  the  aqueduct^  and  ihe  coup 
d'oeil  is  very  line. 

Ale  v.ander'fl  brulge  aiid  road  fionn  Albany  to  thefc -rinja,  licro 
crosses  th^  rivf.r. 

(Ballston,  12  miles  N.y 

(Shaker's  Villag-c,  7  m.  S.) 

Union  College,  on  S.  3 

Tiic  view  entering- into  Schenectady,  by  the  Canal,  i  <^Uitc  a 
Dutch  picture — here  boats  from  Utica  arrive  and  depa:  i  daily. 


Ilotierciam  Fiats  and  lock 

Plattekill  aqueduct 

Putnam's — 1  lock  8  feet 

Flint  Hill 

Florida— 2  locks  and  aqueduct 

Opposite  Amsterdam  and  Brido^e 

Chuctenunda  Creek  and  aqueduct 

Pass  2  locks,  rise  12  teet 

Mouth  of  Schoharie  creek 

Here  is  a  Rope  Ferry. 

Ruins  of  old  Fort  Hunter 


3 
2 
4 
2 
4 
3 
1 
3 
1 


2 
8 


1 


Aqueduct,  dam  and  g-uard-locks 

Glen — 1  lock  7  feet 

Opposite  Cauffhnawag-a  and  Johnstown 

I'he  Nose  and  Cave  7 

Here  the  aborig-ines  had  a  primitive  mill,  hollowed  out  of  the 
solid  rock,  J\.  side  of  the  Mohawk. 

Kanadarox  or  Bread  creek 

Pass  dam  and  g-uard-locks,  and  1  lock  of  6  feet,  to  Ca- 
najoharie  Village 

Palatine,  lower  viTlag-o  and  bridg-e,  N. 

Minden  — 1  lock  7  feet 

Fort  Plain 

Feeder  and  1  lock  8  feet 

One  lock  8  feet 

Opposite  East  Canada  ereek 

Danube— 1  lock  8  feet 

Nawadag-a  creek — dam,  g-uard-locks,  <fcc. 

Fall  Hill 

One  lock  8  feet 

The  Ravine  towering-  cliffs  en  S.— River  on  N. 

Three  locks  24  feet 

Little  Falls— stone  aqueduct  170  feet  long",  and  feeder 

An  imposing-  scene.  Here  the  curious  traveller  should  stop 
a  few  hours  and  view  the  wonders  of  art  and  nature  that  are 
combined  in  this  vicinity. 


4 

2 
2 
2 
1 
3 
I 


1 


mtm 


416 


ALBANY  TO   NIAGAHA. 


T|i 


\\      h 


Three  locks  25  feet 
Old  Canal  and  locks 


6 


Herkimer  villasre  and  bridg*e,  N.  1  mile 

On  N.  is  West  iCanada  creek,  on  which  is  the  famous 


Trcn- 


/anad 

ton  Falls^  distant  20  miles. 

Deep  dig-g-ing:  throug-h  a  hill  I 

Pass  2  hjcks  16  feet 

Fulma's  and  Steel's  Creek,  aqueduct  and  feeder  3 

Pass  2  locks  1()  feet 

Aqueduct — Myers'  creek 

Pass  1  lock  8  feet  2 

Here  beg-ins  the  Long  Level  of  70  m.,  without  a  lock 

Ferj^uson's  Aqueduct  6 

Clark's  do.  1 

UTICA  2 

Numerous  canal  boats  and  staiarcs  are  constantly  arriving-  and 

departing",  and  this  is  a  busy,  thriving-  city.    Koads  lead  in  every 

direction. 

Aqueduct  over  Sadaquada  Creek  3 

Whitesboroug-h  Villa^-e  1 

Oriskany  Creek  and  Village  3 

Cotton  Factories. 

Rome  8 

Feeder  from  Wood  Creek 

Here  ate  tlie  remains  of  works  of  the  old  West'/.i  In.  Lock 

Nav,  Company. 

Verona  7 

Glass  House  6 

Oneida  ('reek  3 

Lenox — basin  and  landing"  place  3 

Canastota  Village,  creek  and  basin  % 

Now  Boston  VillaGTe  4 

Chitteningo  creek,  aqueduct,  basin,  and  feeder  4 

Here  is  a  side  cut  to  Chitteningo  of  H  mile  and  4  locks  of  6 

feet  each. 

Maulins  landing" — Villag-c  4  miles  S.  8 

Side  rut  to  Orville  3 

Western  extremity  of  the  Long  Level — 2  locks  10  feet 
each  fall  5 

Syracuse  V^illag-e  and  T.  Salina 
Here  are  the  celebrated  Salt  Works  belonging"  to  the  State. 

1,200,000  bushels  of  salt  are  made  here  yearly  ;  the  duty  is  V.l^ 

cents  a  bushel  to  the  State  Treasury. — A  side  cut  of  one  mile 

leads  to  the  works. 
Lock  of  6  feet  fall 

Lock  of  6  feet  rise  \\ 

Gcddes  Vill.— Salt  Works  ^ 


ALUANY    TO    NIAGARA. 


417 


6 

13  Trcn- 
1 
3 


6 

1 

2 
iving'ancl 
din  every 

3 
1 
3 

8 

1  In.  Lock 

7 
6 
3 
3 
2 
4 
4 
locks  of  6 

8 
3 
feet 


)  the  State, 
duty  is  l:ii 
"  one  mile 


n 


Onondapi-a  Lake  N. 

Otisco  Crock — aqueduct  and  lock  of  11  feet  rise 

Canton  Viilag-e 

Jordan  Villag-o — lock  11  ft.  fall,  aqticdtict  over  Skc- 

neatele.^s  Creek,  tlie  village  9  miles  !S. 
Wced^s  Basin 

Here  are  .siagrs  to  Auburn,  5  miles  S. 
Bucks^ 


3 


5 

2 


iucKsvillc—l  lock  9  ft.  fall 

Owasco  creek — aqueduct  and  boat-yards 

Lock  9  feet  fall 

Montezuma — lock  7  feet  f.dl  to  Seneca  river 

The  outlet  to  the  nest  of  beautiful  lakes  in  this  region,  viz. 
Seneca,  Cayunra,  Canandaigua,  Crooked,  (Sic.     J 

Here  arc  Salt  VVork.s.  The  Cayu<ra  marshes  begin  here  and 
extend  6  miles  VV. — they  are  occasi(^nally  ovtjrflowcd. 

[The  Steamboat  (jcneva,  Captain  H.  II.  Swan,  leaves  Gen- 
eva every  morning  for  the  liead  of  the  lake,  and  returns  in  the 
afternoon.  She  is  a  commodious  boat  and  the  arrangements 
on  board  in  every  respect  are  excellent,  being  a  part  of  the  et.  bt. 
concern  of  the  Messr.s.  Stevens,  to  whose  exertions  we  are  main- 
ly indebted  for  the  high  perfection,  to  which  steam  navigation 
has  arrived  in  this  country.  Tlie  hotel  recently  built  at  the 
head  of  the  lake  by  Dr.  Hatkins,  is  not  surpassed  by  any  in  the 
United  States,  for  convenience  and  the  excellence  of  its  work- 
manship. After  vi.situigthc  Prison  at  Auburn,  the  traveller  if 
he  intends  to  make  the  tour  of  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Lakes, 
which  he  ought  l)y  no  means  to  omit,  can  take  the  stage  for  Ca- 
yuga Bridge  about  8  miles  from  Auburn,  from  whence  the  St. 
bocx!t  De  Witt  Clinton  starts  daily,  (Sundays  excepted)  at  1  F.  M. 
for  Ithaca,  at  which  place  she  arrives  early  in  the  evening. 
Ithaca,  falls,  railroad,  &c.,  see  page  104  and  index.  In  the 
morning  the  stage  leave^3  for  the  fieu«l  of  Seneca  lake  in  time 
for  the  Steamboat  that  leaves  there  about  noon,  and  arrives  at 
Geneva  in  the  evening,] 

Clyde  River,  and  outlet  of  Canandaigua  lake 

A  Lock  9  feet  rise 

Galen 

Clyde  Vill. — Clock-house,  1  lock  5  feet  rise 

i<ock  7  feet  rise 

Lyon's  Vill.— lock  6  feet  rise 

Aqueduct  over  Mud  Creek  and  lock  10  feet  rise 

Three  locks  24  feet  rise 

Newark  Village 

Palmyra  Village 

Here  are  basins,  docks,  &.c. 

Aqueduct  Mud  Creek  1 

Juock,  rise  10  feet  \ 


1 

s 
i 
I 

4 
1 

4 
2 

8 
Canandaigua  S.  13  miles. 


3\ 


i*M 


418 


ALBANY    TO    NIAGARA. 


Lock,  rise  10  feet  1 

Fullain's  Basin  8 

Hartwell\s  Basin  3 

Greui  Kmbankment  over  Irondoquot  creek  2 

This  is  2  miles  long",  and  72  feet  liig-h,  nnd  is  one  of  the  won- 
ders of  tlie  canal. 
Lock,  8  feet  rise 

Piltsford  Villuir^  2 

Brighton  Village  6 

Five  Locks  in  a  mile— rise  37  ft.  At  the  summit  begins  tlic 
long  Icrdoi  65  miles  from  tliis  to  Lockpoit. 

Navigable  Feeder  from  Genesee  River  4 

Boat  nuvigalioM  70  or  80  miles  south. 
Rochester^  on  the  Genesee  River 

The  canal  is  here  taken  over  this  large  stream  on  a  noble  A- 
queduct,  built  of  hewn  stone,  which,  with  the  scenery  around, 
presents  a  grand  sight.  The  great  Falls  on  the  Genesee  are 
within  a  few  rods  N. — 2\  miles  farther  N.  was  Carthage  Bridge, 
in  one  arch  over  the  river,  700  feet  wide  and  200  al)ove  tiie  st  ream. 
It  was  built  on  contract  to  stand  18  months  ;  it  stocxi  2  years,  and 
cost  27,000  dollars.  Seven  miles  N.  is  lake  Ontario  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Genesee :  a  steam-boat  looks  in  on  the  trip  up 
and  down  the  lake.  The  Ridge  Road  begins  2  miles  N.  of  Ro- 
chester, and  extends  W.  to  Nia^-ara  river  78  miles.  Stages  and 
canal  boats  ply  in  every  direction. 

King's  Basin,  town  of  Greece  6 

Webber's  Basin  3 

Kilbour's  Basin  1 

Spencer's  Basin  2 

Webster's  Basin  1 

Village  of  Bates — Salmon  creek  Embankment  2 

Cooley's  Basin  3 

Brockport  2 

Holley — Sandy  creek  Embankment,  73  feet  high  5 

Smith's  Basin  G 

Town  of  Gaines — Embankment  3 

Newport  Village — Village  of  Gaines  2  miles  N". 
Gaines'  Basin  1 

Otter  Creek  Embankment,  55  feet  hi'^h  1 

Long  Embankment  15  feet  high, — Clat  ke's  2 

Fish  creek  Embankment,  and  an  arched  roadway  under  the 

canal  3 

Oak  Orchard  creek,  aqueduct  and  feeder  2 

6  inilcs  S.  is  a  feeder  from  Tonewaiita  creek.     On  the  N.  are 
the  falls  of  Oak  Orchard  creek,  and  village  of  RiJgoway. 
Servos's  Basin  3 

Middleport  3 


3  I 

frf 
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H 
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was 
Tou 
Col 
(8 


NIW  HAVEN    TO    THE  WHITE    MOUNTAItfl. 


410 


I 

8 
3 
2 

ho  won- 


2 

6 

ccfins  the 


I  ivjble  A- 
y  around, 
iieRon  are 
re  bridge, 
lie  »t  ream, 
years,  and 
io  and  the 
he  trip  up 
3  N.  ot  Ro- 
Stages  and 

6 
3 
\ 
2 
1 
2 

3 

2 

5 

G 

3 

1 

1 

2 
ly  under 
'  3 

2 

[i  the  N.  are 
'Tway. 
3 
3 


the 


Johnson'a  creek  Embankment,  25  feet  2 

Eighteen  Mile  creek  P^mhankment,  20  feet  3 

Jj(jckpor/,  V\  (Stern  t<rniituiti«)n  (»l  the  (tenrscc  level     9 
Here  arc  i'lvc  double  lix  k.s  ;  a  larpe  ba.-in  ul  six  acres,  and  30 
feet  deep.     The  canal  riscrf  (ii  feet.     Here  al^o  begins  the  exca- 
vation of  solid  rock  for  several  miles,  and  from  0  to  31  ft.  deep. 
,S(ilj)liur  Springs  5 

Tonncwanta  cie(  k — P«>ndleton  Villace  2 

I'he  canal  here  rnters  the  'I'onnewanta  creek,  and  is  followed 

for  II  miles  to  the  dam  near  h^  mouth  11 

Dam  and  Lock  to  vnU'r  the  Niagara  Kiver. 
Waekllock  Harbor — Lock  8 

Village  of  Hlack  Kock  1 

On  th<!  VV.  i.s  S(|uaw  L-^land  and  the  Mole. 
Uird  Island,  in  Niagara  Kiver  1 

Bullalo  % 

Cross  the  Niagara,  or  Niagara  21 

Connecticut  River  Tour  from  New  Havtn  to  Middletottn, 
Hartfurd.   Northampton,  H'imlsor,  Dartmouth  College,  and 
Wliite  Mountains  in  i\ew  Hampshire. 
New  Haven  to 

North  Haven  Bridge  and  Meadows  2 

New  Haven  is  one  of  the  n)ost  beautiful  towns  in  this  coun- 
try, and  Vale  College  is  one  of  the  jirincipal  institutions  :  it  has 
500  students.     Here  is  the  best  Caliinet  of  Minerals. 

Whitney's  Gun  P^ietcjry  is  2  m.  N.  K.  on  the  road  to  Hartford. 


Cross  Quinnipiak  River  to  i^'.rthford 
Durham 


8 


AJiddltfown,  on  Connecticut  River  7 

Connecticut  River  rises  300  m.  N.,  and  empties  into  Long  I'd. 
Soutid,  30  uiiies  S.  E. 

At  this  phuc  is  a  ColIe2"e,  a  sword  factory,  Ac. ;  a  lead  mine 
3  miles  E.  In  Chatham,  on  the  E.  of  the  liver,  is  a  cpiarry  of 
free-stotiH,  that  is  sent  to  Ne\v-\'ork — a  cobalt  mine  5  miles  E., 
an' I  2  falls.     Coal  and  petrifactions  abound. 

Middletown  Ui)per  Ihjuscs  2 

Rocky  Hill  5 

Weatherslield  3 

(ilast(jnl)ury  on  the  E.  of  Connecticut  River 
Hartford  4 

The  American  Asylum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  in  this  city, 
was  the  first  in  America,  and  l-.egan  in  1815.     It   is  situated  on 
Tower  Hill,    1  mile  \V.  ;  it  has  80  or  100  pupils.     Washington 
College,  an  Episcopal  Institution,  was  commenced  in  1824. 
(8  miles  W.  of  Hartford,  is  the  elegant  scat  of  Mr.  Wads- 
worth,  on  Talcott  Mountain,— Sec  SiUimun's  Tour 
to  Quebec) 


420 


NEW  BAVBir    TO    THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


If 


«\'\ 


Crosa  Windsor,  or  Farniingfton  R.  6 

Windsor,  or  Farminjs-ton  rivir,  rises  in  Massacliusctts,  and 
has  a  circuitouH  course  of  HO  mllca  to  tiiis  place. 

Warehouse  Point,  liead  of  sloop  navig'ation  5 

Sufiield,   I  mile  W.  3 

(Knfield  E. 

Division  line  of  Connecticut  and  Massachusetts.  4 

West  Snrinp^ficld  4 

Loner  Meadow,  E. 

U.  6.  Arinoury — Sprinjorfiold  E. — Chickapec  R.  4  miles  N, 

South  Hudlcy  canal  and  falls  E. 

Cross  West  field  river  to 

Had  ley  Falls  and  Canal,  (East  Hampton)  9 

Mounts  Tom  and  Holyokc  are  8  to  900  feet  hie;!),  and  from 
their  summits  the  view  is  enchanting-.— Hadlcy  on  E.  90  m.  from 
Boston. 

Northamnton  6 

Eight  miles  S.  W.  is  the  shaft  of  a  lead  mine,  that  has  been 
carried  1000  feet  in  solid  rock  ;  and  in  Chesterfield,  15  miles  W. 
isshorl,  beryl,  sapphire,  (fee. 

Cross  Conn.  R.  to  Hadley,  and  re-cross  to  Hatfield        5 

Whately  (Suprar  Loaf  Mountain) 

Dcerfield,  (Miller's  Falls  Smiles  W.)  11 

Deerfield  river  rises  in  Vermont,  50  miles  N.  W. 

Cross  Deerfield  R.  to  Greenfield  6 

Sunderland,  E. 

Mount  Toby,  R. 

Bernardston  (Gill) — along" the  river  is  ihdhest  road,  the 
other  is  shorter  5 

Falls 

Northfield  E. 

Vernon,  Vermt.  (Fort  Dummer)  10 

Hinsdale,  New  Hampshire,  E. 

Brattle  bo  ro'  7 

Cross  West  River.    (Dummerston)  7 

Putney  3 

Westminster  7 

Walpole  E. 

Bellow's  Falls— (\inal,  &c.    ^  3 

The  river  is  here  compressed  into  a  very  narrow  passage,  and 
forms  a  fall  of  30  feet  over  a  ledsre  of  granite  rocks. 

Cross  the  river  to  E.  side.     {Char Itsl own)  9 

(On  W.  is  Rockingham,  Springfield — mouth  of  Wil- 
liam's creek,  Weathersfieldi^ 

Cross  Conn.  R.  to  W.  Windsor  14 

Ascutney  Mountain,  2000  feet  high.  The  gulph  road  leading 
to  Montpelicr,  is  remarkable  for  the  v.ildness  and  beauty  of  ita 
mountain  scenery. 


n 


m 
is 
of 
at 

Lo 


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icttB,  and 

5 
3 

4 
4 

[lilcsN. 


9 

and  from 

90  m.  fro"^ 

6 

Lt  has  been 
LB  miles  W. 

i        5 
11 
5 

.d,  the 


10 

7 
7 
3 

7 


passage,  and 

■cs. 

9 

Wil- 

14 

1  road  leading 
beauty  of  ita 


KEW  HAVEV    TO   THE    WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


421 


llartland — Wiitrrqiircliy  F.ills  II 

L<-I»;\ii()n,  K. — Sli  ilccn. 

Hartford,  mouther  V\  lil((>  River.  B 

While  rivcrrirfcs  in  the  (it  com  Mountains,  20  miles  W. 
Norwich  4 

Dartmouth  t'oileg-e  K.  in  (h(.'  Town  of  Hanover,  New 

Hainpshin,'. 
Lyme  K. — Sawyer'.'^  and  Corey'.-?  Motintiiins. 
Thetford  S 

Faiilco  6 

Oxford — Piennoiit — Haverhill. 
Ciuarry  of  soap.-tone  on  I-. 
Haverfiili  corner  M 
Crosf4  Wait'.s  Kiver.     (Rradfonl) 
Newbury,  ((/rfat  Ox  How  IC.) 
Extensive  and  '.«';uitiful  rich  meadows. 
Cross  Wei r.s  River.     (Rye-jnto)  8 

Tol-jMilc  FalU  lUni. 
To  Luncnstcr  2J  m. 

Cross  Conn.  R.  to  I'atli,  on  the  Ammonoosuck  7 

Aminonoo:>nclc  river  ou  V..  ri  's  in  die  White  Mountains,  30 
niilcaj  N.  K.,  and  is  u  clear  rapiti  stream. 
Along"  (he  Annnoncjo.suck  to 

Ethan  Crawford's,  in  tlie  'I'own  of   Hrentford,  4J  m.  N. 
W.  of  I  he  Notch  20 

Here  a  iruidc  must  be  obtained,  if  you  wish  to  ascend  the 
mountain.^.  The  most  eleva.ted  peak  of  the  White  Mountains 
is  Mount  VVahiiifrton,  about  7,000  feet,  a  lit<l<*  below  the  regrion 
of  perpetual  snow  in  tliis  l.ititude.  Tiio  ascetit  is  capy  for  7  m. 
and  steep  for  two  nules.  From  the  top,  the  Atlantic  Ocean  may 
be  seen  at  70  t(j  80  inile.=!  (hstance. 

Koscbrook's,  (the  NOTCH)  ^  *  4J 

'i'iie  entrance  irito  this  natural  chasm  is  formed   by  2 
rocks  perpendicular,   20  feet  apart.     'J'his  was  the 
Indian  Path  from  the  north-west  to  the  sea-coast. 
(To  the  Canada  Line  is  50  miles  N.) 
The  Cascade,  on  the  riL'ht  i 

Then  nine 

These  streams  arc  the  scurccs  of  the  Saco  river,  that  runs  S. 
E.  about  100  miles 

From  this  .spot  the  mountains  recede  on  each  side,  and  rise  to 
4  or  5,000  feet  perpendicular  heig-ht.  The  road  descends  rapid- 
ly S.  K.,  and  th    scenery  is  on  a  mag-nificent  scale. 

Davies'  Farm  '  H 

Crawford's  Farm  6 

Here  is  an  immense  amphitheatre  of  mountains  13  miles  long 
and  3  broad,  with  summits  of  vast  height  and  amazing  grand- 
eur. 34* 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sdences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


i\ 


•^ 


•«^>^_ 


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sgrn^mmgrn 


422 


NEW-YORK   TO   ST.  AUGUSTINE. 


i 


Bartlett 

Conway 

Fryeburg" 

Hirarn 

Stand  isli 

Gorhann 

Portland 


n 

10 
10 
10 
22 
7 
10 


Southern  Rovte from  New-York,  to  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, 
Norfolk,  Charleston,  Savannah,  and  St.  Augustine  by  Steam- 
Boats,  Rail  Roads,  Canals,  and  Stages. 

Amlioy,  by  Steamboat,  (2  hours)  25  miles 

Rail  Koad  by  Hnbertsville,  Hig-htstown,  Spotswood, 
and  Crntreville,  N.  Jersey,  to  Bordonton,  on  Dela- 
ware river,  time  2^  hours  36 
Bordenton  to  Philadelphia,  by  Steamboat,  2^  hours    35 
(expense  N.  York  to  Pliiladelphia,  S3.) 
Philadelphia  to  Fort   Mifflin,  8;  Lazaretto,  5;  Ches- 
ter, 5;  Marcus  Hook,  4 ;  Christiana  Creek,  8  ;  New- 
castle, 5.    (2  hours.)  35 
Frenchtown,  by  the  Rail  Road  (in  1  hour)  16 
Turkey  Point,  by  Steamboat  13 
Baltimore,  (4^  hours,)  $4  from  Philadelphia                 51 
(or  if  by  the  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  canal  from  Newcastle  to 
Delaware  City,  is  10  m.  along-  the  marshes  to  St.  George's,  4. 
Summitbridg-e,  6;  Chesapeake  creek,  4  ;  mouth  of  Beek  creek, 
3;  Turkey  Point,  8;  Grove  Point,  6;  Pool's  Island,  16;  Mil- 
ler's Island,  8 ;  North    Point,  8 ;  Sparrows   Point,  4 ;  Foit  Mc 
Henry,  6 ;  Baltimore,  3.) 

197  miles  to  Norfolk,  (by  Steamboat,)  on  the  Chesapeake  B. 
(in  13  to  15  hours.) — expense  $8. 
NorthPoint  13 

Bodkin  Point  A. 

Stony  Point  4 

Sandy  Point  6 

Thomas  P^int  10 

3  Sisters  6 

Herring"  Bay  7 

Sharp's  Island  9 

Cove  Point  20 

Drum  Point,  mouth  of  Patuxent  River  6 

Cedar  Point  4 

Point  Lookout,  mouth  of  the  Potomac  17 

Smith's  Point  11 

Windmill  Poin*,  mouth  of  the  Rappahannock  river   21 
Gwynn's  Island  7 

Point-no-point  6 


S 


KORFOLK   TO   RALEIGtt. 


423 


n 

10 
10 
10 
22 

7 

10 

altimore, 
ty  Steam- 

25  miles 

1, 
a- 

36 
3   35 


w- 
35 
16 
13 

51 
ewcastle  to 

^orgre's,  4. 
Boek  creek, 
d,  16;  Mil- 
Fort  Mc 


sapeake 

13 
4 
4 
6 

10 
6 

^f 
I 

9 

20 
6 
4 
17 
11 
iver   21 
7 
6 


B. 


New  Point  Comfort 
Black  river  point 
Old  Point  Comfort 
Fort  Calhoun 
Craney  Island 
Norfolk 


9 
12 
10 
1 
8 
6 


[Norfolk  /o  Raleigh^  N.  C.  bi/  Varboroxtgh. 
Suffolk 

N.  Carolina  State  Line  11 

Constant's  10 

MiichcU's  6 

Parker's  5 

Edenton  17 

Cross  Albcrm;irle  Sonnd  to  Mackee's  Ferry  10 
Albcrmarle  i^ound  receives  the  waters  of  Chowan  and  Roan- 
oke rivers,  a  few  miles  above,  and  extends  to  the  E.  60  miles 
from  this  ferry. 

Plyrnoutli  14 

Jameston  12 

Williamston  11 

Cross  Tar  River  to  Tarborough  34 

Little  River  48 

Nouse  River  11 

Raleigh  6 


Norfolk  to  PaycttcvillCy  by  the  Canal ^  ly  Albermarle  Sound. 

Enter  Dismal  Swamp  8 

The  road  runs  along"  the  bank  of  the  canal,  throujsrh  Dismal 
Swamp  to  Pasquotank  river. 

N.  Carolina  State  Line 

Pasquotank  River 

Elizabeth  City 

By  Steamboat^ 

Wade's  Point,  Albermarle  Sound 

Mouth  of  Roanoke  River 

Plymouth 

By  Land. 


13 
10 
12 

17 

45 

8 


Jameston 
Williamston 
Tarborough 
Stauntonsburw" 
Cross  Little  llivcr 
Neusc  River 
Black  River 
Cape  Fear  River 
Fayetteville 


13 
10 
32 
28 
16 
10 
21 
18 
2 


424 


NORFOLK   TO   FATETTEVILLE. 


fr.] 


Norfolk  to  Payetteville,  by  JSewhern. 
Plymouth, 

At  Wastiiiig-ton  a  road  takes  off  to  Hyde  Church,  on  Pamli- 
co Sound,  distant  47  miles  E.  by  S. — Cape  Hatteras  is  distant 

from  thence  55  miles  S.  E. 

Hoof  Inn  5 

Jackson's  Inn  11 

Shepard  14 

Washivgion  5 

Cross  Piimlico  River  1 

Pamlico  River  is  the  continuation  of  Tar  River.     It  falls  into 

Pamlico  Sound  45  miles  S.  E.  from  this  place. 
Grist  5 

Kingr's  Inn  9 

Col.  Bryan's  4 

Neuse  river  6 

Neuse  River  falls  into  Pamlico  Sound  35  miles  E.  from  New- 

bern. 

Newbern  10 

At  Nevvbern  a  road  takes  off  to  Beauford,  distant  45  miles  S. 

E. — Cape  Look-Out  is  situated  30  m.  S.  E.  from  Beauford. 
Trenton  20 

Rhodes'  11 

Cross  N.  E.  branch  of  Cape  Fear  River  to  Hall's  7 

N.  E.  branch  of  Cape  Fear  river  rises  28  miles  N.  by  W.,  and 

falls  into  Cape  Fear  River  40  miles  S.  by  W.  from  this  place. 
Six  Runs  22 

Big  Cohary  10 

South  River  16 

Cape  Fear  River  13 

Cape  Fear  River  falls  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  at  Cape  Fear, 

opposite  to  Smithville. 

Fayetteville  2 

Norfolk  to  Charleston^  S.  C,  by  the  Coast. 
Rhode's, 

Cross  N.  E.  branch  of  Cape  Fear  River  to 
S  Washington  24 

Re-cross  N.  E.  branch  21 

Hermitage  3 

Wilmington  6 

Cross  N"  E.  branch  Cape  Fear 

Main  branch  Cape  Fear  River  3 

Brunswick  15 

Smithville  12 

Cape  Fear  Light-house  is  situated  6  miles  S.  E.  from  Smith- 
ville. The  Frying-pan  shoals  extend  about  18  miles  S.  E.  from 
the  Cape. 


CHARrKSTOIf   TO   SAVANffAH. 


42(3 


,n  Pamli- 
8  diBtaiit 

5 

11 

14 

5 

1 

L  falls  into 

6 

9 

4 
6 
from  New- 

10 
45  miles  S. 
iuford. 

20 

11 
7 
I  by  W.,  and 
his  place. 


'12 


10 
16 
13 
Cape  Fear, 


d. 


24 
21 

3 

6 

3 

15 

12 
from  Smith- 
es S.  E.  from 


Varennes  26 

On  the  Sands  13 

Cross  Great  Pedee  River  to  Georgetown  20 

Santee  River  N.  branch  14 

Do.  S.  branch  2 

Santee  River  92  miles  N.  W.    It  falls  into  the  Atlantic 

Ocean  by  two  entrances,  about  12  miles  S.  £.  from  this  place. 
Tweeden  Cottons  10 

Wapetan  Church  17 

Greenwich  16 

Cross  Cooper's  river  to  CHARLESTON  4 

Cooper's  River  rises  N.  W.  about  45  miles. 
Ashley  river  6 

Ashley  river  rises  N.  by  W.  about  32  miles  from  this  place. 
Green's  Tavern  8 

Hick's  Tavern  10 

Cross  Edisto  river  to  Jacksonboro*  10 

Edisto  river  rises  90  miles  N.  W.  and  falls  into  the  Atlantic 

Ocean  20  miles  S.  E.  from  this  place. 

Pompon  P.  Office  3 

Thompson'a  tavern  1 1 

Cross  Cambahee  River  to  Saltketcher  church  9 

Cambahee  liver  rises  76  miles  N  W.,  and  falls  into  St. 

Helena  Sound,  18  m>les  S.  £.  from  this  place. 

Pocotaligo  7 

Cross  Coosawhatchie  river  to  Coosawhatchie  6 

Coosawhatchie  river  rises  47  miles  N.  W.  and  falls  into 

Coosaw  river,  6  miles  S.  E.  from  this  place. 

Fitch's,  Echaa  road  4 

Beck's  Ferry,  on  Savannah  river  39 

Savannah  river  ta..^  into  the  Ocean  16  miles  S.  S.  E.,  and 

is  naviga'yle  for  large  vessels  to  Savannah. 
SAVANNAH 

Or  by  the  New  Road. 
(Fitch's,  as  above 
Wells 

St.  Luke's  Church 
Savannah  river 
SAVANNAH) 
Little  Ogechee  river 
Ogechee  river  rises  135  miles  N.  W.  and  falls  into  Ozsab- 

aw  Sound,  14  miles  S.  E. 
Great  Ogechee  river  4 


25 


15 
A 

18 
1 

10 


!f 


itiMlM 


426 


KEW-yORK   TO    ST.  AUGUSTINB. 


i  1.1 


iHn   ' 


Old  Bryan  c.  h.  2 

Med  way  ch.  13 

Riceboro'  6 

South  Newport  river  9 

South  Newport  river  rises   18  miles  N.  W.  and  falls  into 
Supelo  Sound,  1 1  miles  E.  S.  E.  from  this  place. 
Mc'Intosh  c.  h.  8 

Darien  12 

Altamaha  river  16 

Altamaha  river  is  formed  by  the  Oconee  and  Ocmulgee  ri- 
ver?, 73  miles  N.  W.  and  falls  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  20  m. 
S.  E.  from  this  place. 

Widow  Harris's  6 

Buftalo  River  12 

Buffalo  river  rises  !2  miles  N.  W.  and  falls  into  Turtle  R. 
12  Tiiies  S.  E 

Little  Santilla  river  JO 

Little  Santilia  river  rises  8  miles  N.  W.  and  falls  into  Jy- 
kill  Sound,  20  miles  S.  E.  from  this  place. 

MizeU's  15 

Cross  Great  Santilia  river  to  Jefferson  5 

Great  Santilia  river  rises  N.  W.  35  miles,  and  falls  into  St. 
Andrew's  Sound,  20  miles  £.  by  N. 
St.  Mary's 

St.  Mary's  river  rises  W.  S.  W.  40  miles. 
By  IVattr  to  St.  Augustine. 
Cumberland  Sound,  mouth  of  St.  Mary's  river 
Mouth  of  Nassau  river 
Nassau  river  rises  near  St.  Mary's. 
Mouth  of  St.  John's  river  9 

St.  John's  river  rises  in  Mayaco  Lake,  S.  250  miles. 
ST.  AUGUSTINE  25 

Talahasse,  20  miles  N.  of  St.  Marks,  is  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment ot  East  Florida. 

Charleiton  to  Savannah  by  Steam  Boat. 
Sullivans  Island  S.  C. 

Coffin  Land  Lt.  House  " 

Stone  River  " 

N.  Edisto  River  " 

St.  Helena  Sound  ** 

Port  Royal  Entrance  " 

Calitouge  Sound  *■ 

Tybee  Light  House  Geo. 

Savannah 


24 


5 
18 


<< 


5 

8 

9 

14 

10 

26 

15 

6 

15 


^ 


2 

13 

5 

9 

alls 


into 


8 
12 
16 

lulgee  ri- 
xn  20  m. 

5 

12 
rurtle  R. 

10 
into  Jy- 

16 
5 

Is  into  St. 

24 


5 
18 

9 

es. 

25 
of  govern- 


5 

8 

9 

14 

10 

26 

15 

6 

15 


PENNSYLVANIA    CANAL. 

Cleveland  to  Portsmouth,  via  Ohio  Canal. 

Ackron 

New  Portage 

Clinton 

Massilion 

Bethlehem 

Bolivar 

Zoar 

Dover 

New  Philadelphia 

New  Corners  Town 

Coshocton 

Irville 

Newark 

Hebron 

Licking  Summit 

Lancaster  Canaan 

Columbus  Side  Cut 

Bloomfield 

Circleville 

Chillicothe 

Piketon 

Lucasville 

Portsmouth 


427 


Cincinnati  to  Dayton,  via  Miami  Canal 
Keadmg 

Sharon 

Hamilton 

Middletown 

Franklin 

Miamisburgh 

Alexandersville 

Dayton 


Marietta 
Bainbridge 
Middletown 
High  Spier  Town 
Harrisburgh 


Pennsylvania  Canal. 


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it 

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it 

11 

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11 

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8 

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3 

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7 

it 

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It 

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17 

a 

26 

ti 

13 

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10 

ti 

5 

H 

11 

H 

18 

tt 

8 

ti 

9 

tt 

23 

tt 

25 

tt 

14 

it 

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nal. 
Ohio  11 

tt 

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tt 

12 

it 

12 

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7 

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it 

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tt 

7 

Pa 

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8 

(( 

17 

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so                                     PErffSYLYANlA   CANAL. 

McAlister's  Town 

K 

7 

Juniata  River 

tl 

8 

Miller'stown 

ti 

17 

Miflin 

t( 

17 

Lewistown 

tt 

13 

Waynesbureh 
Hamiltonville 

it 

14 

it 

11 

Huntingdon 

il 

7 

Petersburgh 

it 

8 

Alexandria 

tt 

23 

Frankstown 

tl 

3 

HoUidaysburgh,  by  railroad  to  Johnstown 

tt 

37 

Blairsville 

il 

34 

Sdltsburg 

H 

17 

Warren 

n 

12 

Alleghany  River 

it 

15 

Freeport 

tt 

2 

Pittsburgh 

tt 

2a 

m 


s^'. 


Ii:;i    !  !i 


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g"len 
coal 
ffalK 
sing- 
be  a 
toui 


:4ii 


fiAtTlMORE   TO   FREDERIO. 


420 


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i 

3 
7 

;4 

17 

12 

15 

2 


Route  fronx  Baltimore  by  the  Railroad  to  Prcderic,  and 
thence  by  Hufrcrritown  to  Cumberland,  and  by  the  National 
Road,  to  Wheeling-  on  the  Ohio.  This  route,  which  it-;  an  im- 
portant one,  from  the  State  of  Maryland  to  the  western  country, 
IS  also  by  Steaniboats  and  Railroads,  intinriately  connected  with 
the  Southern  route  from  New- York  and  Pliiludelphia,  and  cer- 
tainly is  the  most  direct,  and  the  shortest  line  from  those  cities 
to  the  west. 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad  is  described  at  page  34L 
Hagerstown  is  situated  amidst  a  luxuriant  and  fertile  country, 
in  the  heart  of  Maryland,  in  Washington  County,  and  near  the 
Potomac  River.  The  underlying  strata  of  blue  limestone  per- 
vades this  district  of  country,  which  sends  annually  to  Baltimore 
more  than  a  hundred  thousand  barrels  of  the  best  flour. 

The  road  from  Frederic  to  Cumberland  is  an  excellent  ma- 
cadamized turnpike,  the  surface  material  being  tor  more  than 
sixty  miles  the  blue  limestone.  From  Cumberlaad  also  on  the 
Potomac  River,  v\  Alleghany  Countv,  Maryland,  (where  Vir- 
ginia and  Pennsylvania,  appear  on  tlie  Map,  nepily  to  unite, 
and  to  compress  Maryland  into  a  small  space,)  commences  the 
celebrated  National  k  oad  that  leads  to  the  Oliio  River ;  the  loca- 
tion of  this  road  is  creditable  to  the  Engineers ;  the  contour  is 
admirable,  and  to  geologists  must  be  particularly  interesting, 
as  it  presents  a  profile  section  across  the  whole  range  of  the  Alle- 
ghanies,  clinging  on  one  side  to  the  movmtains,  that  in  some 
places,  seem  to  tower  above  ihe  traveller  to  a  great  distance,  and 
so  near  walls  formed  by  the  cut,  that  the  carriage  wheels  often 

fjrazethem  ;  and  on  the  other  a  precipice  almost  perpendicular, 
eading  toa  gulf  below.  In  many  places  on  the  Savage  moun- 
tain the  side  presents  a  mural  front  of  sandstone,  in  layers  resem- 
bling regular  masonry,  and  in  parts  the  summit  appears  to  be 
actually  flagged  with  sandstone,  and  some  of  the  slabs  seem  as 
true  as  if  dressed  for  foot  pavements  in  cities;  they  are  of  an 
elegant  material,  granular  quartz  strongly  coherent,  of  a  light 
pearl  color,  and  when  pulverized  nearly  as  white  as  flour. 

1  here  are  extensive  settlements  along  the  whole  line  of  the 
road ;  not  a  tract  of  table  land,  gentle  slope,  valley,  or  wide 
glen,  but  is  under  cultivation.  Vast  quantities  of  bituminous 
coal  of  the  best  quality  are  on  the  Youghcogeny  and  Monon- 
gahela  Rivers ;  and  the  grandeur  of  the  natural  scenery,  in  cros- 
sing these  mountains  from  Baltimore  to  the  Ohio,  will  always 
be  a  source  of  the  highest  gratification  to  the  naturalist,  the 
tourist,  and  to  those  that  admire  the  wild  scenes  of  our  country. 

Baltimore  to  Frederic,  47 ;  Hagerstown,  27 ;  Cumberland,  66 ; 

35 


430 


EASTKRN    STEAMBOATS. 


VVhcclinpr,  on  Ihe  Ohio,  123.    Totnl,  2G3  milo9.    (From  Phila- 
dclf)hia  to  Pittaburffh  is  21)G  miles.) 

The  travelling'  betwf^cn  Baltimore  and  Winchostor,  in  Vir- 
ginia is  now  so  much  expedited,  that  the  trip  between  the  two 
places  is  easily  performed  in  a  day. — The  traveller  is  conveyed 
seventy  miles  on  the  Ohio  Railroad,  to  the  Point  of  Kecks,  from 
that  place  to  Harper's  Ferry  he  makes  his  pasaag-c  on  the  Ches- 
apeake and  Ohio  Canal,  in  a  packet  boat  which  runs  (hroug"h  in 
al)out  two  hours,  and  thence  to  Winchester  in  stage  coaches. 
The  arrang-emonts  of  the  Railroad,  Canal  and  coaches  have 
been  regulated  with  a  view  to  co-operation,  stj  that  no  time  is 
unnecessarily  consumed  on  any  part  of  tiie  route  To  those 
who  iJesirc  to  make  the  most  of  a  day  in  a  pleasant  trip,  at  this 
pleasant  season,  perhaps  there  is  none  which  offers  so  many  in- 
ducements in  the  way  of  variety  and  interest  as  that  by  by  Uail- 
roa;d  and  Canal  to  Harper's  Ferry.  By  this  new  and  easy  route, 
this  celebrated  spot,  hitherto  so  difficult  to  approach,  is  now  ac- 
cessible in  a  few  hours,  without  f«tig-ue  or  danger;  and  if  l)e- 
fore  the  removal  of  the  natural  difficulties  to  its  approach,  the 
g-randeur  and  sublimity  of  its  scenery  constantly  attracted  visi- 
tors to  Ix^hold  it,  we  presume  that  thousands  will  be  hereafter 
induced  by  the  new  facilities  of  access,  to  bend  their  course 
thitherward. 


Hudson  River  Steam  Boats. 
The  reg-ular  boats  on  this  line  are  to  be  found  at  the  foot  of 
Conrtland  and  Barclay-screets,  on  the  western  side  of  the  city. 
The  time  consumed  in  going"  up  the  river  from  Nc\v-\'ork  to 
Albany,  is  10  to  12  hours.  The  new  double  boat  of  Burden's, 
will  make  the  trip  in  less  time.  Travellers  that  wish  to  erjjoy 
the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Hudson  River,  will  of  course  prefer 
g'oing"  in  the  morning  boat,  at  7  o'clock,  that  arrives  at  Albany 
in  time  to  enable  persons  going  to  Ballston  or  Saratoga,  to  reach 
there  by  9  P.  M.  On  Sundays  a  boat  leaves  N.  Y.  at  10  A.  M. 
$3  is  the  price  for  passage  in  the  above  boats.  Other  boats  leave 
N.  Y.  daily,  at  5  P.  M.  at  prices  varying  from  I,  to  2,  or  $3. 
Separate  boats  from  the  foregoing  ply  to  and  fro  also,  from 
N.  Y.  to  ail  the  intermediate  places  south  of  Troy. 


Eastern  Steam  Boats. 
Various  new  and  excellent  Steam  Boats,  run  nearly  all  the 
year,  from  New- York  to  Nor  walk,  Bridgeport,  New- Haven, 
New-London  and  Norwich,  and  also  up  Connecticut  River  to 
Middletown  and  Hartford ;  for  the  four  last  towns,  the  boats 
usually  start  at  4  P.  M- ;  and  for  New-Haven  at  7  A.  M.,  and 
Norwalk  at  6  A.  M.  For  Newport  and  Providence,  there  are 
four  splendid  Steam  Boats,  that  depart  at  4  or  5  P.  M.  from 


slel 

in 
firj 

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Sac 


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If 


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f.AKK    ONTATIIO. 


431 


I  Phila- 

in  Vir- 
Ibc  two 
nwcycd 

ic  Chcs- 

-ough  in 
coaches. 

ic3  have 
,  time  18 
Vo  those 
ip,  at  this 
many  m- 
r  by  »ttxil- 
asy  route, 
13  now  ac- 
and  if  l^" 
oach,   the 
acted  visi- 
hcreafter 
cir  course 


he  foot  of 
f  the  city. 
^v-Vork  to 

Burden's, 
5h  to  enjoy 
)ursc  prefer 
„  at  Albany 
era,  to  reach 
at  \0  A.  M. 

boats  leave 

to  2,  or  $3. 
also,  from 


sarly  all  the 
fjcw-Haven, 

cut  River  to 

is,  the  boats 

|7  A.  Mm  and 

ce,  there  are 

^.  M.fro»» 


Liberty-stroci,  or  somo  of  tlir  wbiirvca  on  the  Eawt  Kivor,  adju- 
ccnt  to  KtiltoM  or  l*colvtn;ui-Htrf'et.  Fare  to  Nc\v-Hav«'ii,  S'J ; 
up  Ciiiinct'ti'-ut  Riv(M- ti)  llarlforcl,  2  to  SdoUiirci;  to  Nouport 
and  I'rovidenc,  G  to  SS. 

S)Ufhnrn  Si  cam  Uoals. 
Fare  to  Cliarlcston  S.  C.  in  tbc  JStoiiiu  Hoata  Wm.  Gibbons 
and  David  lb  own,  330.  'riiiio,  3  days  and  a  b.df.  Start  on 
Saturdays  at  4  P.  M.  Hy  tSi.s  lin«^  and  the  liaiboad,  Icadjnpr- 
from  Charleston  to  Jbimbnrijrh,  (135  miles,)  opposite  to  Augus- 
ta, any  one  can  reach  the  centre  of  (Jeorizia,  in  4  days  from  N. 
York,  and  to  New  Orleans!,  in  4  or  5  days  more,  by  stages  and 
Steam  Boats. 


Lakr  Kric. 
There  arc  thirty  Steam  Hoats  on  this  Lake,  runninpr  daily  to 
and  from  Buffalo,  to  Detroit,  and  the  interme(liate  places,  which 
will  not  more  than  acconnnodate  the  vast  concourse  of  emi- 
grants and  others,  conrftantiy  poinir  to  the  Went  and  South 
Wost.  Boats  also  go  less  ficcpK-ntly  to  iMiehilimackinack  and 
Green  Bay,  and  Cliicag-o.     (Buffalo  to  Detroit,  6  to  $8.) 

LAKE  ON'J'ARIO. 

CANADIAN    STF.  •  M     nOATS    FOR     1934. 

Lake  Boats.  The  St.  Georfjr*^ ;  the  fTrent  Britain  ;  the  Wil- 
liam I V^;  the  United  Kinirdom  ;  theCol'Ourg;  the  Queenston 
is  to  run  at  the  head  of  the  Lake, 

'I'he  St.  George,  C'apt.  Harper,  will  iiin  as  follows  : 

Will  leave  Prescott  every  I'^riday  ev(;ning  after  the  arrival  of 
the  Montreal  stages,  and  will  start  by  Saturday  mid-day  from 
Kingston  for  Oswego,  and  le«ve  <  )swego  every  Saturday  night 
for  Toronto,  Burlino"ton  Bay,  and  Niagara.  On  her  return  trip, 
the  St.  George  will  leave  Niagara  every  Tuesday  f)r  Oswego, 
Kingston,  and  Prescott,  at  which  latter  place  she  will  arrive  in 
time  for  passengers  to  take  the  BroekvilU^  Steam  Boat  on  Wed- 
nesday evening.  By  this  route  passengers  will  arrive  at  Mont- 
real  on  Thursday  evening. 

Bay  and  River  Boats.  The  Sir  James  Kempt,  Capt.  Gilder- 
sleeve,  for  the  Bay  of  Q,uinte,  from  F^angstonon  Thursday. 

The  Cataraqui  is  anew  boat,  133  feet  long,  8  feet  9  inches 
in  hold,  38  feet  broad,  two  engines,  each  of  36  horse  power.  The 
Brittannia.    The  Kingston,  (apt.  Ives. 

On  the  Rideau  Canal  there  are  four  Steam  Boats,  with  tole- 
rable accommodations. 

There  are  several  good  Steam  Boats  on  the  American  side  of 
Lake  Ontario,  and  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  irom  Ogdensburgh  to 
Sacketts  Harbor,  Great  Sodus,  Oswego  and  the  mouth  of  the 


V 


432 


LAKt   ONTARIO. 


Genesee  River  to  I.ewistown,  on  the  Niagara  River.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  travellers  to  and  froin  Ningrara  Falls,  to  any  part  of 
the  United  States,  or  to  Kinpston,  Hytown,  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec, will  find  every  desiral)lo  facility  ^)f  -Aatcr  ct)nimunication 
on  this  Luke;  and  the  trip  from  Kin<rston,  pnat  the  Thousand 
I.-)land8,  and  down  the  various  flapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  to 
Montreal  and  Q,uebec,  will  ever  be  viewed  with  admiration,  as 
presenting  fioiue  unequalled  features  in  American  Scenery. 


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